Restaurant Reviews

NEWCOMERS

AMERICUS ON PRESTON

THE TINY BITE OF PEPPERY SEAWEED, NESTED in the center of the plate and sauced with gentle saffron cream, was a true taste teaser, I couldn’t wait for the rest of our meal. Sure enough, the overturned portobello cap, mounded with a “broiled salad” of crawfish tails, chopped tomato, pine nuts, and asiago, was satisfying but still left room for anticipation of an entrée-in this case chicken, roasted till just pink at the joint (that is, perfect for anyone but a hardcore home economist), and cushioned by a pile of thyme-scented mashed potatoes.

It was our first visit to Americus, and it was a lovely dinner. In the mouth. If only waiters were not a necessary intervention between kitchen and dining room. This unpretentious food made me think I’d probably like Chef Michael McMillan. The on-plate construction of lamb chops, their bones sticking up in a bare teepee over a fried cake of crispy-cream grits, whose crunch contrasted with the blue cheese-enriched interior, was a dish with flair in the invention and care in the execution. It was a lovely dinner. Except for the waiter.

We asked for the wine list and ordered an Edna Valley chardonnay, and our waiter barked, “Order by number! It’s by number!1’ Isn’t there a list posted in the kitchen? Can’t he remember “Edna Valley?” I gave him the number. He returned with the wrong wine. When our glasses were finally filled, we said we’d order some appetizers to eat while we chose our dinner. “No partial orders!” our waiter snapped. “You have to order everything at once!”

I understand that when a kitchen is under siege, when the dining room is packed, it’s more difficult to serve tables in stages. But I also believe that, to paraphrase Mr. Stanley’s (Marcus), philosophy, “the diner is always right.”

Fortunately, there’s not much crème brulée won’t soothe, and Americus’ version is brightened with fresh mint. 19009 Preston Rd., Piano. 972-381 -0028. $$-$$$.

-Mary Brown Malouf<BR>

MARTY’S CAFE TUGOGH

I GAVE LARRY SHAPIRO A HARD TIME WHEN Cafe TuGogh opened-1 didn’t like the self-service, 1 didn’t like the name, I didn’t like the apparent head-to-head with Eat-zi’s. So of course I was pleased with the announcement that Marty’s latest version of its wine bar had changed everything but the name. And the food-there was never a problem with that. At night, when the blond, light-filled Cafe TuGogh features full table service, it’s on its way to becoming one of the best little bistros in town.

It’s a niche that’s practically empty, and it makes better sense to try to do well what no one else is doing, rather than compete with a business everyone complains about. Eatzi’s is about volume. Marty’s is about quality.

The newly instituted service was remarkable for its good will. Darrell. behind the counter in the deli where we browsed a few minutes before dinner, assured us, “We’re here to serve” and told us to speak up if we saw anything in the deli that was not on the printed menu. He’d be happy to substitute. He also said the staff is “cross-trained,” so everyone could do every job. Any further doubt of eagerness to please was dispelled when they rearranged the furniture without our asking so our party of six could be seated out of the early evening glare from the western window.

The kitchen was a little slow. First courses (a luscious lobster crab cake with ancho rémoulade, a fresh and lively Greek salad, and a marvelous tomato chicken soup thickened with strips of tortilla) came immediately, but the entrées lagged. Still, my filet was perfectly cooked and served with barely budding asparagus spears. The kitchen did a little Asian flex with moist glazed quail sided with a lemon grass corn cake and proved it could do the deli deal with a reuben sandwich. Throughout the meal, the service was friendly and solicitous. The dinnertime waitstaff adds appropriate grace to good food. Once the kitchen gets its line up to speed. Cafe TuGogh will have arrived. 3316 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-4070. $-$$.-M.B.M.



VITTO’S

I WAS DELIGHTED WHEN VlTTO’S OPENED IN Oak Cliff. Founded by a Spasso defector, the simple little cafe served a similar, inexpensive menu of pizza and pasta, a plus for this neighborhood struggling to become a destination. It was filled with the kind of diversity that Dallas folks love or hate about Oak Cliff. Now that Vitto’s has crossed the river and opened in Oak Lawn, it seems both less interesting and less diverse, but its new neighborhood seems to love it as much as its old one. It’s been full whenever we’ve eaten there, but price and convenience seem more of an attraction than the food. That’s the difference context makes; There are more, better Italian options in Oak Lawn than Oak Cliff.

Oak Lawn Vitto’s has the same minimalist interior-mirrors, sculptural iron screens, questionable art, and laminate tables. The menu attempts several ambitious dishes-including some veal preparations-but most people stick to the pizza and pasta, either from sad experience or instinct. Italian wedding soup, for example, was a chicken broth with tiny meatballs in it, an incongruous combination not helped by its warmed-over aroma. Caesar salad had a similar stale taste, perhaps from the dusty cheese. Gnocchi were gummy, though the marinara sauce was fine, a satisfactory balance of tang and spice. The pizza was the best, especially two of the “different” pizzas: one topped with spinach, goat cheese, and red peppers; the other with garlic, spinach, bacon, and pepperoni. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-522-9955; 316 W. 7th St.. 214-946-1212. $-$$.-M.B.M.



BARBECUE

Baker’s Ribs. Nothing fancy about this place. Load up your tray with piles of sliced beef, pork, turkey, chicken, cayenne-seasoned Si. Louis-cut ribs, and the usual side dishes: potato salad, cole slaw, and beans. We still prefer the Commerce Street location. 2724 Commerce St., 214-748-5433; 4844 Greenville Ave., 214-373-0082; 488 W. 1-30 al Belt Line Road, Garland, 972-226-7447. $.



Red Hot & Blue. A place to pig out literally: RHB specializes in pulled pork and dry ribs- that is. Southern-style, as opposed to Texas-style, barbecue. It’s all good, though there are gimmicky touches like the fried onion loaf. The “blues” are on the walls, in the form of concert posters, and in your ears. Friendly waitstaff. 9810 N. Central Expwy., 214-368-7427; 5017 W. Piano Pkwy.. Ste. 100. Piano. 972-248-3866. $.



D BEST Sonny Bryan’s. For 40 years, Sonny Bryan’s meaty brisket, and classic barbecue sauce have been the standard by which all other Dallas barbecue is judged. The West End and St. Paul locations maintain the original tastes in fancier sellings, but for the classic barbecue experience, return to the original Inwood Road joint, sit on the hood of your car. and gnaw on tenderly smoked ribs and chopped beef. 2202 Inwood Rd? 214-357-7120; 302 N. Market St., 214-744-1610; 325 N. St. Paul St. (in the tunnel). 214-979-0102; 4701 Frankford Rd? 972-447-0102; Macy’s, 3rd level. Galleria, 972-851-5131.$.



BREW PUBS

Copper Tank Brewing Company. The beer may be microbrewed, but the setting is macro. This huge pub-an Austin import-functions as a sports bar, watering hole, and restaurant. While the beer wins awards, the food also deserves some attention, too. Our favorite pretzel replacement: onion rings with a zesty apple-horseradish dipping sauce. 2600 Main St., 214-744-2739. $.



D BEST Routh street Brewery and Gpill Although ill.’ food has slipped a little, the hand-crafted brew remains some of the finest in Dallas, and an elegant hill country lodge motif with soft lighting makes il a sexy spot for a beer joint. Shy away from the wein-erschnitzle; roasted pork tenderloin fares better. 3011 Routh St., 214-922-8835. $$.



BURGERS/CASUAL

Angry Dog. The menu is standard bar cuisine, including some great burgers, nachos. and sandwiches, but it extends to include some inspiring options. The Angry Dog-a grilled, all-beef hot dog split and served open-faced covered with grilled onions, chili, and cheese–is truly fantastic and a bargain at $4.50. For serious beer drinkers, there are 120 beers to choose from. 2726 Commerce St., 214-741-4406.$.



Chip’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers, Perhaps Dallas’ best rendition of the all-American hamburger is served at Chip’s. Both locations have an atmosphere as wholesome as a Beach Boys song, and the food is fast and fresh, too. A return to a time of innocence, when a good time could be fueled by nothing more than fries and a shake. The skinny onions rings, rich pig sandwich, and hot dogs are just lagniappe. 4501 Cole Ave., 214-526-1092; 4530Levers Ln., 214-691-2447. $



Corner Bakery. Dallas has a number of excellent bakeries now, but the Comer Bakery holds its own. Country loaves are crusty, and the sweet stuff-Russian coffee cake, sticky buns, and brownies-are all excellent. Bui the Bakery has a cafe side, serving pizza (with the deep-dish, 2-inch sides holding a fiat tilling), tomato-sauced pasta, and sandwiches. 2401 Preston Rd? Piano, 972-398-1955.$.



Snuffer’s, The burgers and frosty brew are a sensory way-back machine for those who thought the university years were the prime of their life. They probably were, if you continue to eat things like Snuffer’s cheese fries (a basket of deep-fried strips, covered in gloriously greasy cheese), because you can’t last long if you eat this way often. 3526 Greenville Ave., 214-826-6850; 149IOMidway Rd., Addison, 972-991-8811.$.



CAJUN/CREOLE

Copeland’s of New Orleans. Cajun staples are complemented by an array of more creative appetizers and entrées. The blackened redfish is nicely done if a bit tame. What’s more, every staff member from the manager on down is friendly and polite. 5353 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-661-1883.$$.



Crescent City Cafe. Crescent City still dishes out solid New Orleans chow in authentic French Quarter surroundings. Though the fried food can be spotty, the gumbo’s rich and the po’ boys are consistently good. 2615 Commerce St., 214-745-1900. $.



CHINESE

Arc-En-Ciel. The kitchen employs separate cooks for the Chinese and Vietnamese fare, but everyone really goes there to eat Vietnamese. Our last meal we ordered in a leisurely way, a few dishes at a time-pristine Imperial rolls; shrimp pounded and molded on sugarcane; grilled pork to roll in rice paper with rice noodles, cilantro, mint, lettuce, and sprouts-each dish delightful, fresh, excellent. 3555 W. Walnut St., Garland. 972-272-2188; 2208 New York Ave., Arlington, 817-469-9999, $-$$.



Cafe Panda. The personnel here roll out the red carpet and the mostly excellent food reflects a meticulous attention to detail, performing some service rituals as complex as the cuisine. Start with quail curl and watch as a team of servers performs a near-ballet in bringing it to your table. And finish with tableside French-pressed coffee. 7979 Inwood Rd., Ste. 121, 214-902-9500. $-$$.



May Dragon. An inscrutable Strip center location belies one of the city’s best Chinese restaurants. Just stay away from the neon sweet and sour stuff, and you’ll be happy. Try a duck, instead. 4848 Beit Line Rd., Addison, 972-392-9998. $$.



New Big Wong. Large lunches are served here in fast-food lime, but a leisurely dinner rewards experimentation. The menu is large, and largely authentic, serving a wide variety of wiggly sea creatures. The setting is plain and the service friendly. 2121 S. Greenville Ave., 214-821-4198.$.



Szechuan Pavilion. One of the top Chinese restaurants in a city with far too few to choose from. Service here is smooth and the usual Szechuan specialties are good. Pot stickers filled with juicy pork and a whole crispy fish are worth waiting for. 8409 Preston Rd., 214-368-4303. $$.



Uncle Chow. The menu might be small, but the flavor’s all there, especially if you start with the pan-fried chicken dumplings, jam-packed with tender white meat. 19021 Midway Rd., 972-306-CHOW. $.



COFFEEHOUSES

Cafe Society. Dallas’ most authentic coffeehouse not only roasts its own beans but offers a comfortable but hip environment for serious discussion, flirtation, hanging out. listening to music, and feeling generally plugged-in and with it. 209 Henry St., 214-745-1964. $.



Cafe Brazil. “Brazil” here is a coffee cue, but this cafe is not just another Java joint. The brews are varied and the laid-back attitude of all three locations make them comfortable chat rooms, but the food is better than it has to be. Breakfasts are particularly notable. 6420 N. Central Expwy.. 214-691-7791; 2221 Abrams Rd., 214-826-9522; 2815 Elm St., 214-747-2730. $.



DELI

Gilbert’s. All you Yankees pining for the comforts of the Carnegie Deli, slop whining. The Gilbert family enters their 11th year of dishing out potato knishes, stuffed derma, and kasha varnishkas as good as any in the Big Apple. They also have a decent plate of spaghetti and meatballs for the shiksa in your group. 11661 Preston Rd., 214-373-3333. $.



Street’s Famous Sandwiches. We are impressed by the creative combos of meats, cheeses, and vegetables, and “Gene’s Favorite” is ours, too-grilled chicken and onions with melted provolone and spicy Dijon. Sides include a cheese tortellini salad with walnuts. Chinese sesame noodles, potato salad, and coleslaw. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-2505. $.



EASIERN EUROPEAN

Athénée Cafe. Dallas’ only Rumanian restaurant-are you surprised? Stuffed mountain cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meatball-size beef rolls oven-roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights: Rumanian sausage and veal chop. The wine list is adequate. 5365 Spring Valley Rd., Ste. 150, 972-239-8060. $$.



ECLECTIC

Bread Winners. One of the prettiest, most atmospheric Old South settings anywhere in Dallas, this Uptown eatery is a favorite for breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner (Wednesday through Sunday). Big triangles of grilled polenta lavished in fresh marinara make a main-dish starter; a single wedge of strawberry chocolate tone serves two. 3301 McKinney Ave., 214-754-4940. $-$$.



The Brick Room. Tables on tiers raked amphitheater-style give live jazz lovers a fine view of the bandstand in this suave food-and-jazz emporium that’s brought a new night-life dimension to Lowest Skillman. Steaks and seafood are main menu draws; pleasant service and a well-tuned bar keep the all-aged faithful happy between sets. 1925 Skillman St., 214-823-2725. $$.



Deep Ellum Cafe. The first legitimate restaurant in Deep Ellum has a lot of competition now, and though this is still one of the most pleasant places to be in downtown, sometimes the food is not so pleasant. The kitchen seems bored with the standards like chicken and dill dumplings and Vietnamese chicken salad; specials are a better bet. Sit outside if you can. 2704 Elm St., 214-741 -9012. $-$$.



East Side Grill. East Side is attached at the hip-hep. rather-to The Barley House bar, and the bar food-nachos, quesadillas-fulfills its purpose with little fanfare. Entrées vary, but the jalapeno honey barbecue chicken is spicy, sloppy, and tasty, accompanied with scrumptious mashed potatoes and vegetables drowned in soy. The chicken-fried steak is humbly good. 2916 N. Henderson Ave., 214-828-2801.$.



8.0 Restaurant and Bar. This hip joint is still hopping with pretty people sipping blue mar-garitas and noshing upscale bar food like thick. 8-ounce burgers and chicken nachos. Lines are out the door at lunch and cocktail hour in the summer, and the patio is swarming with guys and girls cruising for girls and guys. Blaring music makes table conversation nearly impossible, but mural-covered walls painted by local artists make it a funky place to sit back and watch the show. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0880.



Firehouse. This restaurant is the ultimate in food cross-dressing. Chef Bruno Giovanni Mella displays great dexterity in crossing pork chops with mango salsa or andouille sausage with barbecued shrimp. Fire-eaters have hit the mother lode. But there’s plenty for those who feel faint at the site of a jalapeno. Try the roasted garlic and eggplant dip served in a whole masted onion. 1928 Greenville Ave., 214-826-2468. $$-$$$.



D BEST The Grape. The secret thai Dallas oldest and best wine bar is really one of ils oldest and best restaurants-dim and atmospheric, with a blackboard menu that remains interesting and enticing (no matter how often the chef changes), and the tiniest, most romantic bar in town. 2808 Greenville Ave.. 214-828-1981.$$.



D BEST The Green Boom, This ’90s bistro continues i” dish oui some of the most inventive cuisine to be found between New York and L.A. The menu is eclectically uptown, and the decor is strictly downtown rock ’n’ roll. The contrast between them is cool. At $34, the fixed-price, four-course. “’Feed Me” menu is the best deal in town. 271? Elm St., 214-748-ROOM. $$.



Mark’s on Henderson. Chef-owner Mark Jenson has turned this intimate 13-table bistro into a grown-up wine bar by serving hot food. Browse the cellar and choose a bottle or sample international wines by the glass. A moderately priced chalkboard menu lists an eclectic selection of daily entrées such as Russian chicken-a breast covered with a sauce loaded with grilled onions and cilantro. 2926 Henderson Ave.. 214-841-0900. $$.



Piano Cafe. A feast of vegetables accompanies each meal at this suburban bistro, and most people leave with leftovers. Freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans. There’s a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 500, Piano. 972-516-0865. $$.



St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin. The martin doesn’t mean seafood, it’s just a clue that the owner likes to fish. The only seafood here is the dancing tuna sandwich; mostly, the food is simply designed to go with your beer. Beware the Diablo Tempestuous, pasta doused in fiery jalapeno-tomato sauce. It’s so hot it comes with a chaser of chocolate milk. 2730 Commerce St., 214-698-1511.$.



Tarantino’s. The overall ambience-a dark, New York cafe-shaped space dominated by a long bar-is best at night, when the slight scruffiness is hidden by dim light and the place looks avant instead of under-financed. The food goes back to the basics of Italian and Spanish cuisine, served tapas-style. The lake on traditional osso buco. based on a rich, gamy lamb shank instead of veal, is food you lust after. 3611 Parry Ave.. 214-821-2224. Dinner only. $$$.



Tarazza. This menu borrows ideas from all over the world-a Japanese version of Italian risotto, a French duck confit salad, a Thai soup-adds ils own spin, and leaves taste buds dancing. Listening to piano music at the inviting bar area is the best way to end to your meal unless the stars invite you out to the upstairs terrace. 4514 Travis St., 214-521-2175.$$.



The Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. Chef Michael Smith serves a healthy mix of Southwest, Cajun, and New American cuisine at this old-style pub in Uptown. The roast pork chop with spinach sautéed with apple butter literally melts off the bone. The menu changes weekly, based on availability of fresh ingredients. 2901 Thomas Ave., 214-979-0452. $-$$.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

D REVISITS Addison cafe. It’s called “Le French Bistro, but m reality. Addison Cafe is a restaurant serving classically prepared French and New American dishes. Inside is like an early ’80s powder room, with mirrored walls, ruffled kelly green and pink flowered roman shades, and huge vases of silk flowers. And then there’s all those stuffed peacocks. But serving fine food has kept them in business for 14 years- which is more than their trendier Belt Line rivals can say. Recently we tasted tournedos of beef cooked medium rare and served in a textbook bordelaise sauce. A thick slab of fennel-crusted sea bass seasoned with kalamata olives was poached to perfection. Nothing decadent about the dry and tasteless chocolate cake, but the dark chocolate mousse was worth every hip-hugging calorie. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 108 at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-991-8824. $$.



Arthur’s. Having marked its half-century mile-post, this continental steakhouse still deserves its reputation tor dependably upscale dining. It’s clubby and suave in a retro kind of way. A fist-sized tenderloin filet is wonderful, and the martinis are ample. 8350 N. Central Expwy. (in Campbell Center), 214-361-8833. $$$.



D BEST Barclays. Don’t come to Barclays expecting to find a pint of bitters and bangers and mash. This is upper-crust English fare with a European twist. Potato ravioli stuffed with Stilton cheese and wild mushrooms is of regal status. And if you’re looking for that perfect place to “pop” the question or celebrate something special, look no further-this place is a gem. 2917 Fairmount St.. 214-855-0700. $$-$$$.



Clair De Lune. Tucked behind some trees in the comer of a small strip of shops in Preston Royal, this cozy French country restaurant delights with delicious food and impeccable service. A classic house-made pork paté is served with diced onion, French cornichons, and mustard. Poitrine de canard, a splendidly moist duck breast, is served with a delicate port wine sauce. 5934 Royal Ln. at Preston Road, 214-987-2028.$$.



French Roam. This is the prettiest dining room in Dallas. The rococo-style, cherub-flown ceiling. Versailles-length drapes, and candlelight make it the kind of place that doesn’t mesh with the modern world. It’s only natural to expect perfect food that matches the fairy-tale room. Sweetbread schnitzel is perfect, placed on a bed of asparagus ragout. Lamb ribeye is precisely matched with rosemary goal cheese polenta and tomato confit with basil, combining every Mediterranean high note in a single dish. Hotel Adolphus. 1321 Commerce St., 214-742-8200.$$$.



Jennivine. Jennivine’s slightly anachronistic atmosphere, a quaint old house stranded in the massive new Uptown apartments, still delivers one of Dallas’ most unexpected dining experiences: fine food in fine surroundings at a fair price. Appetizers and entrées alike are first-rate. If you’re not up for one of the excellent meals, enjoy a glass of wine and a sampling of cheese or one of their many patés. 3605 McKinney Ave.. 214-528-6010. $$.



La Mirabelle. Thoroughly retro not only in its ambience, which stresses traditional comfort, and in its food, which is precisely and personally prepared French, but in its service, which actually claims to coddle the customer. Enjoy reading the menu, but don’t order a thing until you hear the specials of the day. That’s where the treasures are. 17610 Midway Rd., 972-733-0202. $$-$$$.



Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ oldest elite restaurants is tough business. but La Vieille Varsovie is valiant. It takes effort to find much fault with the fancy food-from appetizers to dessert, the meal is an anachronistic treat. Servers, however, are only acceptably pleasant. 2610 Maple Ave., 214-528-0032. $$$.



D BEST The Pyramid Room. Thai overused word, opulence, must be hauled out again-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it. Here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, deserves superlatives. You can hardly ask for more cosseting at any price than that provided by this serenely cosmopolitan restaurant. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 214-720-5249.$$$.



D BEST The Riviera. We knew the moment an airy avocado cream hors d’oeuvre passed our lips that we were doomed, once again, to a near-flawless dining experience. Each dish seems to outdo another. Food credits here mostly belong to Chef de Cuisine Frank Harris, one assumes, with input from David Holben, now executive chef at sibling restaurants Mediterraneo and Toscana. 7709 Inwood Rd., 214-351-0094. $$$.



Tramontana. This cozy little dining room has charming murals on the walls and an inviting-looking bar, but service and food vary. Some high points: The steak is perfectly good-flavorful red meat with a simple emphatic wine reduction-and the salad is a mix of lovely, flowerlike greens with pungent, mouth-cleaning flavors. 8220B Westchester Dr., 214-368-4188.$$.



Watel’s. Sure, you’ll find weird organ meats like calves’ brains doctored with capers and veal kidneys touched with mushrooms to satisfy the strand of old-world gastronomic esoteri-ca that quivers in your palate. Bui you’ll also find exquisite contrasts like delicate rare tuna coated with crunchy peppercorns and tightly structured grilled shrimp with red pepper coulis-all served in a crisp, clean space. 1923 McKinney Ave.. 214-720-0323. $$.



What Else. Serious, well-prepared French country cooking in a cozy dining room. Tender duck-leg confit falls off the bone and is accompanied by a creamy risotto. A classic tarte tatin-upside-down apple tart-is authentic. Pay-by-the course menu reminds us that eating French food doesn’t have to be an intimidating or expensive experience. 1915 Greenville Ave., 214-874-WHAT. $$-$$$.



GOURMET TO GO

Bon Vivant Market Longtime Dallas chef Dan O’Leary is the food mind behind this all-purpose market. Bon Vivant has plenty of room to navigate a basket around the central island filled with prepared meals (veal meatloaf, lasagna), past the bakery (crusty Euro-country loaves), to the grill area (juicy chicken skewers) and sandwich bar. Plus, there’s a real wine department and tables for eating in. 1801 Preston Rd., Piano, 972-818-1177. $-$$.



City Harvest. This neighborhood favorite is open every day and–even on weekdays- serves real morning food. Downtowners take note: Oak Cliff is easy for lunch (buy a bag of Zapp’s chips and a triple chocolate chunk cookie to go with the pesto chicken salad deluxe sandwich), and you can pick up dinner to go while you ear. 939 N. Edgefield Ave.. 214-943-2650.$-$$.



Eatzi’s. Eatzi’s definitely lives up to its circus hype. Hear the strains of opera and waltz through the crowds collecting the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer, fresh bread, and flowers. Or choose salads or sandwiches made to order. Checkout lines are infamously long. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-526-1515. $-$$.



Sigel’s Fresh Market. Besides the stellar cheese counter, dozens of kinds of imported pasta, great selection of olive oils, and other gourmet comestibles, the little deli adjoining Sigel’s liquor store sells perhaps the best roast chicken to go in town. And it’s a deal, too. 15003 Inwood Rd., 972-387-9804. $.



GREEK

Kostas Cafe. The food is simply Greek and simply good. Appetizer do’s: saganaki and dolmas (musts, really). Entrée don’ts: souvlaki (tough and chewy). 4914 Greenville Ave., 214-987-3225.$$.



Ziziki’s. You can hardly get a prime-lime table at this contemporary Greek cafe, and they don’t take reservations, except for large parties. Bui the herbed lamb souvlaki, folded in thick warm pita and sauced with tart yogurt, is worth a wait. Ziziki’s menu has featured the same idiosyncratic version of Mediterranean food since it opened-it’s a good thing when some things don’t change. 4514 Travis St.. Ste. 122,214-521-2233.$$.



HOME COOKING

Barbec’s. Barbec’s regulars love the tabloid newsprint menu, the hearty, what-canget-you-Hon? waitresses, the awesome anytime breakfasts. The food ranges from pretty good to good, but it’s all cheap. And they’ve always got those legendary beer biscuits, sweet and high and truly loved by all. Great meringues. 8949 Garland Rd.. 214-321-5597. $.



Celebration. Bring your appetite to this longtime mecca tor Dallas home-cooking purists. Entrées run the gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables. Don’t worry if your entree seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish. 4503 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-5681.$.



DC’s Cafe. You’ve been in powder rooms bigger than this super-clean little place, but you’ve had home cooking this fine only in your dreams of classic soul-food plate lunches at penny-ante prices. Pork chops, meatloaf, catfish et al come with three sides; business is about half-and-half eat-in and takeout, and we’ve never seen the room empty of patrons. 8224 Park Ln., 214-363-4348. $.



Poor Richard’s Cafe. Honest home-cooked food, featuring a huge spread of the one meal Mom told you never to leave home without-breakfast 2442 Ave. K at Park Boulevard, Piano, 972-423-1524.$.



INDIAN

D BEST Bombay Cricket Club. Lunch buf-fets are an Indian restaurant tra-dition, and Bombay Cricket Club’s lineup is excellent. A pretty setting, unfailingly polite service, and excellent food make this one of the top Indian restaurants in town. The quality is steady at lunch, which for some restaurants seems to be a time not to try very hard. 2508 Maple Ave., 214-871-1333. $-$$.



India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine. And, similar to a tine perfume, too much is an assault on the senses, too little and there’s no magic. India Palace has kept the proper balance for nearly a decade and shows no signs of slowing down. 12817 Preston Rd., Ste. 105,972-392-0190.$-$$.



ITALIAN

Campisi’s Egyptian. It’s dark, outdated, and frankly, a dump. The food is predictable and mostly pedestrian, except the famous pizza. But all an institution has to do in order to succeed is endure. Dallas loves Campisi’s and has for decades. Cash or check only. 5610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 214-827-0355. $.



Coco Pazzo. This restaurant is a link in the chain owned by noted New York restaurateur Pino Luongo. It’s a little less rustica and quite a bit glitzier than one might find in the Italian countryside. Food is similarly stylish, but usually very good, particularly pastas and desserts. 2504 McKinney Ave., 214-871-2606. $$-$$$



lano’s. The menu is priced per portion and per “la familia.” And it’s thoroughly Italian in that a “la familia” platter is plenty for a family, including parents, several children, grandparents. Vitello Pugliese, for example, is thickly breaded slices of veal, smothered in tomato sauce allegedly enriched with goat cheese and loaded with purple kalamata olives. 250 Spanish Village, 972-866-08X8. $$.



Joey’s. Owner Joey Vallone and chef have created a menu of innovative Italian fare. If you aren’t a “High Profile” regular, chances are you’ll spend most of your evening at the bar of this dizzyingly decorated hot spot. Try the tower of vegetables glued together with Fontina cheese or the rigatoni Vallone with artichokes, asparagus tips, and Louisiana head-on prawns. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-0074. $$.



La Dolce Vita. Lakewood’s favorite wood-burning oven is as comfortable a place for pizza and wine as it is for pastry and coffee. The high-ceilinged room with tall windows is a good place to linger if the crowds don’t push you out. Service is unpretentious and friendly; pizzas and pastas are good but not weird. 1924 Abrams Pkwy., 214-821-2608. $-$$.



D BEST Mi Piaci. Ai all times, these hip per-than-hip rooms are tilled with people who look like they just stepped off the fashion pages. The menu focuses on classic Tuscan cuisine, with homemade pasta, made-to-order risotto, and superb breads. You’ll always see waiters expertly deboning the tender Dover sole for savvy diners. Our only complaint: The noise level can get pretty high. 14854 Montfort Dr., 972-934-8424. $$.



Modo Mio. “Cucina Rustica Italiana” off the Dallas North Tollway. Charming decor, excellent staff, and innovative menu. Gnocchi Modo Mio isn’t Rome, but it beats the pants off local imitations, and the tiramisu has the perfect proportion of mascarpone to ladyfin-gers. The overall service is efficient and unobtrusive-this packed restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine. 18352 Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 112,972-671-MODO. $$.



Ruggeri’s. It could be that success at its newer Addison spinoff has cost the Uptown original its reputation for dependably fine Italian dining. The formerly flawless food has been less consistent lately: The veal chop was huge and tender, but zabaglione was too much more than froth. The crowd is festive as always. 2911 Routh St. 214-871-7377; 5348 Belt Line Rd. 972-726-9555. $$-$$$.



Terilli’s. A Lower Greenville fixture, Terilli’s packs in a semi-sophisticated crowd for such-as-it-is jazz and an eclectic menu featuring the signature item with the silly name: “Italcho’s” (crisp chips of pizza dough topped with moz-zarella and a choice of toppings). Food ranges from pretty good to so-so, but devotees find that Terilli’s is more than the sum of its parts. 2815 Greenville Ave., 214-827-3993. $$.



Toscana. You’ll gladly pay top dollar for Executive Chef David Holben’s fancy versions of Tuscan-based dishes. Appetizers alone are worth the visit: Pan-seared, lemon-thyme calamari is light and delicious, and lightly creamed grilled corn soup with toasted pine nuts is reminiscent of the hearty Tuscan soups of Florence. Indulge in tiramisu bread pudding with a Frangelico anglaise sauce. 4900 McKinney Ave., 214-521-2244. $$.



JAPANESE

Chaya. Cold beer and warm, salted edameme- so much better than pretzels-will make you happy to start. Sushi is consistently good, even the beginner sushi rolls: Rich salmon skin centers contrast nicely with the very sticky rice. For non-sushi lovers, the skewers from the robata-yaki (grill) are good, especially the chicken chunks of moist thigh meat and cubes of succulent swordfish. 101 Preston Royal Shopping Center, 214-361-0220. $$.



D BEST Nakamoto. Service tend: from sublime to abrupt at this stylish, roomy Piano institution, but cuisine (tempura, sushi, and sashimi) remains uniformly excellent, 3309 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road. Piano, 972-881-0328. $$,



Rock & Roll Sushi. Rock ’n’ roll is here to stay, and obviously, so is sushi. Rock & Roll Sushi’s California concept is pan fish, part gimmick. Around the circular bar is a stream with a flotilla of lacquered boats bearing sushi The things we like best are the least traditional, and at lunch, the bento boxes are a good deal. 6109-B Berkshire Ln., 214-987-1966. $$-$$$.



Sushi on McKinncy. One of the first sushi bars in Dallas to cash in on the ’80s notion that sushi is cool. Sushi on McKinney remains a popular stop for everything from introductory hand rolls to more esoteric Eastern concoctions. And, somehow, the scene here has stayed cool even in the un-hip ’90s. 4502 McKinney Ave., 214-521-0969.$-$$.



Sushi Sake. Sushi Sake is half-hidden in a Fleetwood Square strip that we’d call hard to find if so many aficionados weren’t finding it. Many of them are admirers from chef-owner Takashi Soda’s former days as sushi chef of Nakamoto in Piano, and they find here a warmly upbeat ambience, willing attendance to every need, an arresting selection of sakes, hot and cold-and of course, good food. 220 W. Campbell Rd., 972-470-0722. $$.



D BEST Teppo. Our only yakitori bar is also one of the city’s most exciting sushi bars and a favorite weekend dare destination as well. High-energy atmosphere, highly chic modem decor, and high-quality food make this one of Dallas’ best Japanese restaurants, even though the menu is mostly skewers and sushi. Be sure to try the specials. 2014 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8989. $$-$$$.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. Some go for the food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list varied and reasonable. Entrées and appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that will hold your attention long after the main ingredients of the dishes had been devoured. 4537 Cote Ave., 214-559-0325. $$.



D BEST Mediterraneo. The Quadrangle location will probably be the prototype for future Mediterraneos. It’s a pretty restaurant, stylishly minimalist but surprisingly warm and welcoming, and the food-a balance of old and new ideas-is hard to find fault with. Crusts are all the rage: Halibut is mysteriously crab crusted, salmon has a polenta crust, and lamb is crusted with goat cheese. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0002; 18111 Preston Rd. at Frankford Road, Ste. 120,972-447-0066, $$-$$$.



PoPoLo’s. Wins the popularity contest in its restau rant-free Preston Hollow neighborhood, though against suffer competition, the menu might rate as many misses as hits. Choose from pastas, risottos, and hickory-grilled meats with mix-and-match sauces. Wood-fired pizzas and breads (from the adjoining bakery) are usually excellent. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-692-5497. $-$$.



MEXICAN

D BEST Avila’s. This is the food you’d come home to if you could leave home for if you must, starting with the eye-watering salsa. Beef tacos are brim-full of good, greaseless ground beef, and a plump enchilada is perfectly partnered with a soft cheese taco. The refried beans are outstanding. Service is pleasant; the restaurant is immaculate. 4714 Maple Ave., 214-520-2700. $.



D REVISITS Blue Mesa. Blue Mesa has become a dining mainstay, and after 10 years, it seems ready to expand beyond its home base. (Which means if we’re lucky, Jim and Liz Baron will open a Blue Mesa in Dallas, since home base is in Addison.) Ten years ago, everything was served with red chili and blue com, but for the most part, Southwestern cuisine has faded from popularity. Blue Mesa has remained faithful and consistently good. Adobe pie, the restaurant’s signature dish, is still a treat, the bowl-shaped mound of cornmeal enclosing a slewlike filling of seasoned chicken. Guacamole, barely seasoned and creamy, is some of the best in town. Chili-rubbed salmon is scrupulously cooked till barely rare. Our only quibble is the Blue Mesa margarita: We want to be warned when we’re going to be served a blue drink-so we can order something else. Village on the Parkway, Toll way at Belt Line Road, 972-934-0165. $-$$.



Cantina Laredo. The restaurant’s attention to detail shows throughout the meal. Don’t force yourself into a decision-order the monstrous sampler platter and take home the leftovers. 8121 Walnut Hill Ln., 214-987-9192; 4546 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-458-0962. $-$$.



Casa Rosa. There’s almost always a table available at pink-tinted Casa Rosa, but only because the place is so big. The appeal of the food would pack a smaller place. Casa Rosa does well with standards-except the chimi-changa-but the finds here are the more unusual dishes like goat cheese chile relleno and mushroom enchiladas. 165 Inwood Village, 214-350-5227.$.



Chuy’s. Dallas’ most frenzied dining scene, if you can call this “dining.” The frenetically zany decor induces an attentional deficit and the food is competent Tex-Mex, but the herds of elbow-bending college students can be daunting if you’re over 30 or are indisposed to dine in a den. Din. Whatever. 4544 McKinney Ave., 214-559-2489. $.



Dos Charros. This is food for people who break into a sweat at the sight of a habanero chile. The extensive menu has plenty of seafood choices and healthful options added to the list of traditional favorites. 108 University Village Shopping Center, Belt Line and Piano roads, 972-783-7671. $.



Herrera’s. In the early ’70s, we used to grab a six-pack and line up on the sidewalk around the original Alamo-like Herrera’s on Maple Avenue waiting for one of nine tables and a No. 10: one tostada with guacamole, one cheese enchilada, and a soft cheese taco. Twenty-five years and six locations later, they continue to serve the same No. 10, along with other reliable Tex-Mex favorites, in tacky surroundings. 4001 Maple Ave., 214-528-9644; 5427 Denton Dr., 214-630-2599; 2853 W. Illinois Ave., 214-330-6426: 1905 N. Josey Ln., 972-242-4912; 9404 Ovella Ave., 214-956-0150; 3790 Belt Line Rd., 972-488-2202. $.



D REVISITS La Galle Doce. Hello North Dallas, remember Oak Cliff? It’s thai hilly area just south of the Trinity with some charming restaurants that are worth the jaunt. Far from slicker Belt Line and Greenville Avenue eateries, this old house is home to some seriously good Mexican-style seafood. On a recent visit, we sat on the porch and dined on a spicy gazpacho-like Octopus cocktail served in huge goblets. Shrimp stuffed with crabmeat covered with chili con queso tasted much better than it sounded. A filet cooked Tampico-style-pounded flat and grilled-was cut-with-your-fork tender and served with marvelously marinated grilled peppers and a heap of tasty rice and beans. We arrived at the peak of the lunch rush and lingered long into the afternoon over coffee and San. The friendly waitstaff never hurried us to turn the table. 415 W. 12th St., 214-941-4304. $-$$.



La Vaientina. A taste of big city Mexico in suburbia. The beautiful menu makes fascinating reading that doesn’t always translate to the plate. The polio en mole poblano tops chicken with a sensuous sauce that includes 54 types of chilies, spices, and a touch of chocolate, resulting in a richly layered smoky-sweet flavor. Forget that fascinating menu when it’s time for dessert and ask for the flan. 14866 Montfort Dr.. Addison. 972-726-0202. $$.



Mario’s Chiquita. A Dallas classic, this restaurant eschews velvet paintings and kitsch in favor of a pretty, casual decor and offers upscale Mexico City-style fare, as well as some of the best Tex-Mex combinations in town. 221 W. Parker Rd., Ste. 400. Piano, 972-423-2977. $-$$.



Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrees that weigh in at less than 1.000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But only skimp if you want to-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. 7726 Ferguson Rd., 214-319-8834.$-$$.



Mattito’s. Matt Martinez Jr. himself doesn’t have anything to do with Mattito’s, but he did develop the recipes, and those didn’t change when he left. So the chile relleno and griddled flautas are excellent. The service is snappy, and what it lacks in charm, it makes up for in efficiency. 5290 Belt Line Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison. 972-503-8100; 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-8181. $.



D BEST Matt’s Rancho Martinez. The place is filled with the faithful al ever) meal because the flautas are the best in Dallas, the chile relleno is food for the gods, and even a combination plate satisfies, if you don’t mind processed cheese. 6332 La Vista Dr., 214-823-5517.$-$$.



Mia’s. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chiles rellenos. Other days, they make do with house specialties. Service is cheerful; the setting is no-frills comfortable. The bad news: beer and wine only. 4322 Lemmon Ave., 214-526-1020. $.



Mi Cocina. This chain has expanded so rapidly, you’d think Dallasites had just discovered Tex-Mex. But at all six locations, the food is dependably good and lines are still dependably long. The menu features upscale dishes in ad-dition to basic tacos and enchiladas-tacos habanas are stuffed with chicken and covered with ground chili and cilantro; Latin stir-fry fajitas provide a new option for vegetarians. 11661 Preston Rd., 214-265-7704; 77 Highland Park Village. 214-521 -6426; 18352 Dallas Pkwy. at Frankford Road, 972-250-6426; 7201 Skillman St., 214-503-6426; The Galler-ia, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ Freeway, 972-239-6426; 509 Main St., Fort Worth, 817-877-3600. $-$$.



Monica Aca Y Alla. This cool place has been around long enough to be a tradition in these days of restaurants that open and close-?specially in Deep Ellum. The ambitious menu offers intriguing Southwestern-inspired options as well as more standard Tex-Mex, in a hip and hopping ambience. 2914 Main St.. 214-748-7140.$$.



Nuevo Lean. Excellent Mex-Mex food in a comfortable old Greenville Avenue location draws a mixed crowd but enthusiastic reviews. Cabrito is good, mole is excellent, carnitas are the best. 2013 Greenville Ave.. 214-887-8148; 12895 Josey Ln, 972-488-1984. $-$$.



Pepe & Mito’s. The vivid walls and bright lights mean this cafe looks noisy even though it’s not usually crowded. It should be-chips worth mentioning (thick, warm, slightly overcooked), cilantro-laced salsa, and standards like nachos and enchiladas are excellent. Tamales are utterly remarkable, and chicken and beef taquitos are still some of the best in town. 2935 Elm St., 214-741-1901$.



D REVISITS Rafa’s. One Dallas institu-tion replaced another when Raphael’s (now Rafa’s) opened in Mr. Peppe’s old space on Lovers Lane. The arched brick wine cellar is bright orange now, and the pastoral Swiss view has been replaced by pictures of many Aztec gods and one happy tomato. The place could still use a few velvet paintings, but the tablescape is complete: Light, fresh chips, vinegary salsa, and fast margaritas are the intro to a meal that’s quintessential Dallas Mexican. Our “Merida” combination plate featured a meaty tamale, already shucked and blanketed with chili gravy, a fat cheese enchilada, and a crispy pan-fried beef taco. The usual, unusually well-done. But Rafa’s accomplishes the unusual just as casually. A platter of excellent birds, tiny, garlicky quail spread-eagled on the plate, almost too hot to touch but still red at the bone, were a near-elegant surprise. 5617 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-2080. $-$$.



MIDDLE EASTERN

Ali Baba. Order hummus and you get a bowl swirled with the garlicky purée, pooled with yellow olive oil and adorned with slick olives. That and a stack of hot pita could do you, but the grilled chicken is irresistible, and the tab-bouleh, mostly chopped parsley with bits of bulgur and tomato, is a perfect counterpoint to the unctuous chickpea mash. 1905 Greenville Ave., 214-823-8235.$-$$.



D REVISITS Basha. Basha was one of the first in the wave of Middle Eastern restaurants that have opened in Dallas in the last few years. And it remains one of the i best of a good lot. The room is prettier and more refined than it was originally, a kind of decorative “settling in” has happened, and Basha’s has every appearance of a permanent Lower Greenville fixture. Even early on a weeknight, when our waiter was so unpres-sured we half-expected him to take a seat, many tables were taken. The menu is less predictable than many of Dallas’ Lebanese restaurants, offering dishes outside the usual selection of hummus, baba ghanoush, rice, and grilled everything. At our last dinner, we enjoyed a breast of chicken breaded in crushed pistachios-an excellent idea-and a fragrant lamb shank, cooked till it was stew on the bone. OK, we had hummus, too. It was good. 2217 Greenville Ave,, 214-824-7794. $$.



Cafe Istanbul. The tiny kitchen overachieves on : most of its Turkish dishes, especially if you like it spicy. The dining room gets cozy at night, but those who tolerate early evening daylight are rewarded with a happy hour. Solid : service tops off a superb all-around experience. 5450 W. Lovers Ln., Ste. 222, 214-902-0919.$-$$.



D BEST Cafe Izmir. A unique dining experience: In this popular and charming little cafe, diners choose a vegetarian or a meat-based meal rather than ordering from a menu. And then a parade of delightful food appears-lemon-zested tabbouleh. hummus. Mediterranean cole slaw, pita quarters. grilled kabob tubes of ground beef and marinated chicken, and lamb. A scarce Greek red wine called Boutari Maossa is a happy rind here, and me sweet Turkish coffee in fragile cups is as irresistible as the desserts. 3711 Greenville Ave., 214-826-7788. $$.



MOROCCAN

D BEST Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika, and cumin- wonderful. The Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu-is a bargain at $25.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music accompanies a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra who gyrates and finger-cymbales her way around the room. 5207 W. Lovers Ln., 214-357-4104.$$.



NEW AMERICAN

Anzu. The Nakamotos spent a considerable amount of money to alter Anzu’s entrance so its feng shui would be perfectly balanced. Maybe it helps the consistently balanced flavors in the bento boxes. Lunch at this orientally inclined restaurant has always been one of the best deals in town-a beautiful arrangement of tempura and sushi or a plate of Asian-influenced fish or chicken, served gracefully, under a flock of origami birds, for less than $10. 4620 McKinney Ave.. 214-526-7398. $$.



Beau Nash. The genteel bustle of a world-class hotel makes dinner at this restaurant seem like a special occasion. Good picks: a portobello tart or moist-hearted Atlantic salmon. Bad pick: a salad of Belgian endive and unforgivably dry and yellow mache. Service throughout is immaculate and thoughtful. Hotel Crescent Court, 2215 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-3240.$$-$$$.



D REVISITS City Cafe. This Californiainspired, mostly family-run cafe has been in the top tier since it opened. We recently dropped in, without a reservation, in (he middle of the week, and the restaurant was close to full, plus the private room upstairs was booked–proof of perennial popularity. Our famous fresh tomato basil soup was not as good as usual-it seemed too frothy, as though it had been blended too long, and a little too tart-but then it’s hard to find good tomatoes. The spring risotto that followed was impossibly rich with butter and parmesan, lightened only by grassy asparagus and earthy mushrooms. And osso buco was a similar heavy investment, the nuggets of meat and fat offset by the gremolata garnish. The dependable food, easy service, and superlative American wine list make City Cafe an appealing, if not thrilling, choice for a weekday dinner or a special occasion. 5757 W. Lovers Ln.. 214-351-2233.$$.



Fog City Diner. The menu here has always been satisfyingly familiar, with enough finesse and invention to make you feel like you’ve dined, not merely fed. Service is smooth, and the salmon, bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwich is particularly good-each element actually excellent, and the sum superlative. 2401 McKinney Ave.. 214-220-2401. $$.



Gershwin’s. Pretty people, pretty food, pretty prices set the scene for power lunching in this California-influenced Upper Greenville emporium, where on-track careerists linger over creative fare noontimes and gather after work to share single malts, tall foods, and to people-watch. An outstanding wine list, too. 8442 Walnut Hill Ln.. 214-373-7171. $$-$$$.



Going Gourmet. This place is a delicious blend of French bistro and neighborhood favorite: small, intimate, humming with conversation. The food’s a creative melange of Continental, Mediterranean, and New American influences, and the wine you bring yourself. Call for reservations-this tiny space is packed on any given evening. 4345 W. Northwest Hwy. at Midway Road. 214-350-6135. $$-$$$.



Landmark Restaurant Landmark’s menu may make you wish for an atlas and a thesaurus to find your way around, but if you’ll close your eyes, forget about the origin of your vegetables, and eat them, you’ll have a great trip. The New American food here, under the direction of Jim Anile, is ultra-imaginative, if highly complicated. And the gently refurbished room remains one of the most gracious in town. In the Melrose. 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-521-5151.$$-$$$.



Laurels. Rising star executive chef and general manager Danielle Custer brings her cutting-edge cuisine to Sheraton Park Central’s 20th floor. Incomprehensible dishes like pear soup with plum wine crème fraiche don’t make sense until you put them in your mouth. You have to trust Custer: She thinks with her palate and the results are brilliant. Sheraton Park Central. 12720 Merit Dr., 972-385-3000. $$$.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. This isn’t dinner. it’s a dining experience. A dramatic, country club-like, members-only dining experience. The Grande Dame of Dallas dining lives up to its legend-the atmosphere is inimitably posh, the food is predictably innovative. The price? If you have to ask, you can’t afford it. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214-526-2121.$$$.



Nana Grill. The new menu broadens Nana’s focus from Southwestern to Regional American. Service is supremely suave and caring, the accouterments define luxe, and the ambience is as comfortably refined as always in this upscale establishment. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel Tower, 2201 Stemmons Fwy., 214-761-7479.$$$.



Natchez. This restaurant is low-key and upbeat at the same time. Warm ambience and service convey the feel of a comfortable neighborhood gathering place with a short but sophisticated Southern-rooted bill of fare. Grilled pork loin in créole mustard sauce is subtly terrific, and huge sea scallops are pure delight. 2810 N. Henderson Ave., 214-821-4552, $$.



D REVISITS NorthSouth. Larry North has a firm philosophy about physical fitness-he’s a gym guy, not a restaurant guy. So it’s no wonder that NorthSouth has changed its concept since its flashy opening a year ago. Then, it was based on a gimmick: If you ordered a dish designated “North,” you received Larry -approved fare, low-fat, high-protein (and in our experience, not very tasty) food. If you ordered “South,” you received a full-fat, traditional preparation. Unfortunately, also not very tasty. Now the gimmick is gone, and so is half the restaurant, replaced by the N Bar, which provides all the trendiness of NorthSouth in half the size but avoids the tricky issue of what’s on the plate. And in the restaurant. North items are indicat ed simply by an arrow pointing up. Unfortunately, we still didn’t have any good food. Deep South (in style and Larry language) fried fish and heavy hushpuppies weren’t worth the calorie expenditure but North-style lo mein in sweet sauce made South seem the only sensible way to go. The dessert our hovering waiter guided us to was a pineapple upside-down cake, syrupy-sweet and tough as though it was made with egg whites, neither a fitting indulgence for going South and no reward for heading North. 2S00 Routh St.. 214-849-0000. $$.



Rooster. The room is as easily gracious as a family dining room. And the staff offers naturally Southern-style hospitality. The traditional Senate bean soup is authentic-substantial and scented with smoky ham-and the breadbasket is filled with com muffins and bacon biscuits. The catfish, thick and white as cake, is crusted with molasses and pecans, then sauced with brown butter. 3521 Oak Grove Ave., 214-521-1234.$$$.



SEAFOOD

AquaKnox. Stephan Pyles’ swanky seafood spot has commanded national attention, and the swell decor and meticulous food mostly merit it. Luscious red snapper in red curry masa is an example of the global approach to seafood. The rich and the wannabes are sipping bright blue Aquatinis in the elegant lounge, eating from a simpler menu that includes platters of fresh shrimp, oysters, clams, and small-plate versions of the dinner entrées, an excellent option for those who want a taste of the high life without the high tab. 3214 Knox St., 214-219-2782. $$$.



Cafa Pacific.Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants, as well as the place to witness the social structure of Dallas’ power people in action. Menu favorites like calamari, clam chowder. Caesar salad, salmon, and red snapper are superbly prepared and presented by an experienced waitstaff. 24 Highland Park Village. 214-526-1170. $$-$$$.



Clive & Stuart Island Cuisine. The interior does indeed remind you of a seaside resort (is that a good thing?), and the mostly seafood menu is a collision of cuisines, apparently referring to the global island. The successful dishes are the simplest ones-for example, sea bass on ravioli with goat cheese. 2614 McKinney Ave., 214-871-9119.$$.



Daddy Jack’s. Chef Jack Chaplin’s tiny restaurant with its casual, cozy atmosphere is perfect for a date or for breezing in after a day at the lake. But forget about atmosphere. What we’re really talking about is fantastic, though richly prepared, seafood. Also worth noting are the relaxed, efficient service and fair prices: The experience is worth every penny. 1916 Greenville Ave., 214-826-4910. $$.



Daddy Jack’s Wood Grill. This Jack Chaplin restaurant offers lively service and food that manage to combine homey familiarity with twists of near-elegance. For example, a grilled red snapper topped with shrimp and lobster brandy could grace a tonier table, but here it’s served with an ear of corn. 2723 Elm St.. 214-633-3949.$$.



Fish. This elegant downtown spot got very hot very fast, and it may have gone to their heads. Not only have we seen inconsistencies in the food, but service has been snooty. When they’re on. the acclaimed Green Soup-a shallow bowl piled high with shells, legs, and tails protruding recklessly from a broth-is divine. Late-night menu from 10 p.m.-2 a.m. 302 S. Houston St., 214-747-3474. $$-$$$.



D BEST Lombardi Mare. Don’t be put off by the nondescript exterior; the interior is a mind-blower. Lighting fixtures designed to appear like a school of fish swim across the ceiling. Feast on five types of oysters, shrimp cocktail, steamed mussels, and lobster, and finish with Tuscan pudding. 5100 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-1233. $$.



Newport’s. Some of the freshest seafood you’ll find in land-locked North Texas. Choose from mesquite-grilled fish, seared, blackened, or fried seafood, and sautéed chicken. Housed in the old Dallas Brewery and Bottling works, Newport’s three-tiered dining room actually holds a huge, open Artesian well that once fed the pre-Prohibition brewing operation. 703 McKinney Ave., 214-954-0220. $$.



Picardys Shrimp Shop. New American inventiveness at family-style prices. Picardys finds a regional inspiration for most of its mostly shrimp dishes: Coconut tempura shrimp are tender, juicy, and pleasantly sweet; a side of honey-sour sauce added a potent bite. Grilled shrimp nachos. with shrimp, black beans, white cheese, and salsa, were light and chewy. Picardys’ kid-friendly atmosphere is a plus. 6800 Snider Plaza, 214-373-4099. $-$$.



Sea Grill. Mall sprawl makes this Piano oasis hard to find, which would make its unflagging popularity hard to explain if Chef Andy Tun’s highly creative takes on seafood were not so arresting. Dip a half-dozen raw oysters in Tun’s tangy grapefruit-horseradish sauce, and you’ll wonder why you ever overwhelmed such delicacy with ketchup. And your fork’s own weight slides through the barely seared jumbo sea scallop or a moist-hearted cut of grilled tuna. 2205 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 180, Piano. 972-509-5542. $$.



Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. Miami-inspired, this striking art-deco eatery is (he only spot in Dallas that serves the infamous stone crab seven days a week, year-round. They come in four sizes, and they’re ruinously expensive. Truluck’s showcases an attentiveness to detail and skillful service-even if it demands you crush your piggy bank before savoring those claws. 5001 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-503-3079. $$-$$$.



SOUTHWESTERN

Flying Burro. The Burro’s brand of Mexican food isn’t purely New Mexican-there’s more meat and cheese richness on this menu than most New Mexicans (except those from California) can afford to relish. Enchiladas are stacked and come topped with an egg. 28? I Greenville Ave.. 214-827-2112. $.



No Place. Tender elk sirloin and boneless rabbit are sided with sautéed portobello mushrooms and onions. Better-than-beef chicken-fried venison comes with Malt’s famous smoked mashed potatoes. The food is why Matt Martinez Jr. is a legend-in his own neighborhood, anyway. 6325 La Vista Dr., 214-328-9078. $$-$$$.



D BEST Star Canyon. Chef-owner Stephan Pyles has created a Dallas destination with his innovative New Texas Cuisine. An appetizer of fried green tomatoes stacked high with layers of Dallas-made mozzarella is a rare case of tall food tasting as good as it looks. And the bone-in cowboy ribeye on a bed of pinto beans and covered with a mound of shoestring onion rings dusted with red chile should be listed in Fodor’s under Dallas’ top attractions. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-520-7827. $$.



SPANISH

Barcelona. Tapas in Spain, of course, are Spanish food. Greenville Avenue is global. So Barcelona serves snack food from all over the world, such as chicken satay. mezes. and tab-bouleh, as well as the stacked potato omelet that is the quintessential Spanish tapa and the buffalo burger-juicy and lean on a toasted roll. 2100 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-8600. $.



D REVISITS Cafe Madrid. Dallas’ first tapas bar remains its best and everybody knows it. Even in the middle of the week, this little two-room restaurant has customers waiting at the bar for one of the mismatched tables in the storefront space. The wine-poster decorations somehow all add up to charm with an unpretentiousness that is so elusive in Dallas dining. For those who insist. there is a prix-fixe, three-course dinner menu, but most people stick to a series of little plates to accompany their wine. That’s what we did. Except for the music, which is too loud, and the bread, which is grocery-store quality. Cafe Madrid is a great place to linger over a succession of small dishes-a simple assortment of olives, rich, gelatinous oxtail stew, the potato omelet called a tortilla, braised lamb slices. The classic dishes are still the best at Cafe Madrid, where the only difference, to paraphrase the Wallflowers, is that things are exactly as they used to be. 4501 Travis St., 214-528-1731.$$.



La Tasca Espanola. So many tapas, so little lime. You can make a meal by choosing two or three from the list of 22-and do it for under $20. Tortilla Espanola, a thick, pie-shaped omelet, is a standout. Entrées include exceptional Paella Valenciana-a lovely presentation of mussels, clams, shrimp, chicken, and calamari with saffron rice and peas. Home of the friendliest staff in Dallas, this place is trying hard and succeeding. 4131 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-599-9563.$$.



STEAKHOUSES

Bob’s Steak & Chop House. This place dazzles with juicy, tasty cuts of meat-coupled with veggie and potato-and pleasant, attentive service. All at the appropriate price. 4300 Lemmon Ave., 214-528-9446. $$-$$$.



D BEST Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. Prime rib and ,i trimmed-to-lean ribeye are robustly rare and complemented with garlic mashed potatoes. Figure in service that is, if not clairvoyant, almost uncannily empathetic, and you’ll have some grasp of the comfortable ambience that keeps this cigar-friendly outpost filled even on weekday evenings. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 972-934-2467.$$-$$$.



Kirby’s Steakhouse. Unlike the in-town reincarnation of the 1950s original, this vast place has Piano-style prosperity written all over it- upscale splendor with a midscale attitude. The menu’s the same, though-mostly steaks, with the usual few seafood and fowl entrees, plus starters and a list of à la carte sides. 3408 Preston Rd., Piano. 972-867-2122; 3525 Greenville Ave.. 214-821-2122. $$.



Paul’s Porterhouse. Devoted fans of this Restaurant Row mainstay make a compelling argument that it deserves a prominent spot in your regular red-meat rotation. The menu features an array of steak variations, and choices are thick, fine cuts of meat cooked exactly to order. Unexpected alternatives like ostrich and game complicate your entrée decision; so might the taxidermy decor. 10960 Composite Dr.. 214-357-0279. $$$.



Stone Trail Steakhouse. Lavish decor, live music for late dancing, an upscale menu and wine list mark this sprawling steak spread as the brainchild of restaurateur Tony Taher-zadeh. former owner of Farfallo and Papillon. A clubby ambience and prescient service support terrific beef treatments (try the bone-in ribeye); seafood and other meats provide variety. Dinner only. 14833 Midway Rd., 972-701-9600.$$$.



THAL

Chow Thai. A strip shopping center doesn’t seem a likely spot for a Thai food epiphany, but you’ll have one here. Excellent Thai classics like vegetables in a fiery green curry and pad Thai taste clean and light. A dessert of fresh mango atop sticky rice is a spectacular ending. 5290 Beltline Rd. at Montfort Drive. Addison. 972-960-2999. $$.



Liberty. Annie Wong, the mother of Thai food in Dallas, still owns three all-Thai restaurants, but Liberty is where her imagination is freed. Romantically and softly lit. with beaded can-dleshades on each table and bamboo birdcages animated with twinkling Christmas lights, the brightly lit kitchen makes Liberty into real dinner theater, and Wong is the star. What makes her food different is what makes any chef’s food special: imagination. 5631 Alta Ave., 214-887-8795.$$.



Toy’s cafa. This hole-in-the-wall joint has all the elements of a great neighborhood “find.” The tantalizing aroma of curry and garlic is welcoming. That iced tea is a hit; eggplant and tofu in a Thai green curry coconut milk is perfectly prepared. Fresh squid salad with Thai herbs is fresh and tasty. 4422-B Lemmon Ave., 214-528-7233.$.



VIETNAMESE

Mai’s. Mai’s is one of those places that has lots of loyal customers, The menu is stocked with authentic Vietnamese specialties, including lots of noodle and rice entrees and the classic hot pots: exotic meats, vegetables, and spices cooked and served in clay pots. Be sure and try the legendary Vietnamese coffee with sweetened condensed milk. 4812 Bryan St.. 214-826-9887.$.



Saigon Bistro. Authentic Vietnamese food translated into English. Saigon Bistro aims for the authenticity of a point-and-order Vietnamese restaurant, without the risk. The menu lets you know what to expect, and this is one of the only places in town that serves “festive beef,” a special occasion dinner in Vietnam- one you shouldn’t miss. 17390 Preston Rd., Ste. 490,972-380-2766. $-$$.



VietNam. A little hit of Southeast Asia transplanted to East Dallas, VietNam has very little Western influence to make the cultural transition easier. This is Vietnamese food designed for the Vietnamese community. But some things are universal-the appeal of hot soup, for instance. And VietNam’s hot pot, a comforting, steaming caldron of soup, noodles, and vegetables, is enough to share. 4302 Bryan St., 214-821-4542. $-$$.



TARRANY COUNTY

Angeluna. Come to see and be seen, but not heard. The food somewhat redeems the jack-hammer decibel levels. The “one-world-cuisine” features multicultural dishes with arty presentations. Don’t miss Joe’s Shrimp Pae-sano-lightly breaded jumbo prawns sautéed in vodka-lemon butter. Skip the goat’s milk ice cream and splurge on the Key lime tart. 215 E. 4th St., Fort Worth, 817-334-0080.$$.



Bistro Louise. This gem of a bistro offers takeout now, but the staff seems curiously challenged by the idea. The famed smoked duck and stuffed lamb loin travel well, but even delicate reheating of an appetizer of Brie roasted in pastry petals fails to restore it. Savored in the sunny bistro, the cuisine works Mediterranean magic. Enjoy it there as often as possible. 2900 S. Hulen St., Fort Worth, 817-922-9244. $$.



Forest Park Cafe. A Franco-Texan neighborhood bistro atmosphere with a slightly quaint menu that features crepes and patés, as well as simple sandwiches and handmade vegetable ravioli with roasted tomato sauce. Stellar Saturday and Sunday brunches have become a West Side tradition. 2418 Forest Park Blvd., 817-921-4567. $.



D BEST Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. The quintessential Fort Worth restaurant. Its location near the Stockyards is a rambling plantation that can handle the crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution’” and “nirvana.” Wait for a spot outside by the pool and order the enchiladas. Joe doesn’t do credit cards or reservations, either. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth, 817-626-4356. $$.



Kincaid’s. The actual truth is that a Kincaid’s hamburger is too big to get your mouth around and too good not to try. Lunching business types stand hip to hip with blue-collared brethren at long counters or share benches at tables to inhale half-pound patties of choice chuck that are ground, hand-shaped, and grilled daily. 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd.. Fort Worth. 817-732-2881.$.



Can You Say “Fregula?”



ational trendspotters like John Mariani say that Sardinian food is hot this year. Efisio Farris already knew that. The owner of Arcodoro and Pomodoro is from Sardinia and has always served Sardinian specialties In his restaurants. Drop some new culinary vocabulary like “bottarga” (dried fish roe), “malloreddus” (teardrop pasta), or “fregula” (semolina couscous), and you, too, can be on the cutting edge, Arcodoro/Pomodoro, 2520 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-1924.

World of Food



immy’s, the DiCarlo family’s neighborhood store, started out selling oriental food to the Vietnamese and Thai who settled in the area around Bryan and Fitzhugh streets. As the neighborhood changed, the DiCarlos responded-selling Cuban food, then Jamaican, then West African. The produce counter Is stocked with coconuts, green bananas, chayote, and yucca. But the DiCarlos are Dallas Italian, and recently they decided to focus on the food their own family likes to eat. They’ve always made sausage for themselves, and now they specialize in Italian meats and homemade sausages, sweet and hot.

Jimmy’s Food Store, 4901 Bryan St., 214-823-6180

Hot Licks



he independent ice cream parlor has all but vanished from the culinary landscape-a lick of Henry’s makes you wonder why. The specialty is a “Dirt Sundae”: two scoops, fudge, Oreo dust, and a gummy worm. But Henry’s motto Is, “Ice cream makes you pretty.” Well, you’re as pretty as you feel, and Henry’s Ice cream, made daily in the shop, makes you feel pretty swell. Henry’s Homemade Ice Cream, 2909 W. 15th St, Piano, 972-612-9949