Restaurant Reviews

Barbecue

D REVISITS Peggy Sue’s Barbecue. Brisket chicken and ribs-oh my! This ’50s style joint in Snider Plaza is serving some of the best BBQ in town. Terrific appetizers include Texas Torpedoes- cream cheese-filled fried jalapenos. Baby back ribs, chicken, polish kielbasa sausage and brisket are smoked to perfection and not the least bit dry. Vegetables, usually second class in the macho world of meat, go first class here. Don’t go without trying the buttermilk battered onion rings. 6600 Snider Plaza; 214-987-9188. Inexpensive.



Red Hot & Blue. What better way to spend a Friday night than with two giant pigs clad in sunglasses hovering over us while we ate? Needless to say we knew we were in for a treat. Every item on the menu was scrumptious-wet and dry ribs, pulled pig platters and brisket sandwiches-all Memphis style. An appetizer of jalapeno poppers were just the right amount of hot and paired with a yummy barbecue-ranch sauce for dipping, and the side dishes were as tasty as the meals they accompanied. Along with good barbecue and festive atmosphere, you can count on attentive service from a friendly wait staff. 9810 N. Central Expwy.. 214-368-7427; 5017 W. Piano Pkwy.. Ste. 100. Piano, 972-248-3866. Inexpensive.



Brew Pubs

Copper Tank Brewing Company. Copper Tank’s micro-brewed beers might be winning ail kinds of awards, but the food served here deserves some serious attention, too. These hefty portions of he-man food demonstrate that there’s someone in the kitchen who cares, from the burger’s homemade-tasting bun to the perfectly grilled chicken to the scrumptious pizza crust and sprightly marinara sauce. Don’t miss the onion rings with their zesty apple-horseradish dipping sauce, one of the best appetizers in town, and save room for a decadent bite of the homemade chocolate Grand Marnier torte. 2600 Main St.. 214-744-2739. Inexpensive.



Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen. 1701N. Market St.. 214-651-0808. Moderate.

The Rock Bottom Brewery. Generous appetizers could make their own meal. especially the asiago cheese dip or signature green pork chili. Pizzas arrive lava-hot on cracker-thin crust; try the bourbon beef (with homemade steak sauce) or double-smoked bacon (with spinach, goat cheese and roasted garlicl. Smoked chicken enchiladas were some of the best we’ve tried-really. How’s the beer? Thought you’d never ask. Six regular brews range from ultra-light (Coyote Western Ale and Palomino Pale Ale) to deep and roasty [Pelican Brown Ale and our fave. Roadrunner Stout). Falcon Red is a nice compromise. 4050 Belt Line Rd., 972-404-7456. Moderate.



D REVISITS Street Brewery and Grill. The food has slipped a bit, but the handcrafted brew remains some of the finest in Dallas. An elegant hill country lodge motif with antler chandeliers, dark leather booths and soft lighting make it a sexy spot. However, there was nothing sexy about the weinerschnit-zle: tough and greasy and served with a tasteless side of spaetzle. Roasted pork tenderloin with shallot-flavored mashed potatoes fared better. 3011 Routh St., 214-922-8835- Moderate.



Two flows Restaurant & Brewery. According to the menu, the breed of barley best suited to suds is of the two rows variety. So does this brew-eatery live up to its name? Yes and no. While there are some standouts-the full flavored Black Forest Lager and the sturdy, robust Barking Fish Porter-many taste like they were brewed in a sudsy tank of Lemon Fresh Joy. But don’t let that keep you away. Two Rows is a crisp, cozy place with a friendly, energetic staff and a menu that is as informative (healthful items include fat-gram counts) as it is fun to read (one of its ales is dubbed Central Expressway Jack Hammer Red). The food is simple (soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches, pasta, brick-oven fired pizza), fresh and cleanly presented. 5500 Greenville Ave., Suite 1300, 214-696-BREW.



Yegua Creek Brewing Co. Recently snatching a gold medal at the Great American Beer Festival (the second time in three years) for its Scotch Ale. Yegua Creek continues to brew stellar suds along with a few ho-hum heads. Tops on our fist is O’Brien’s Texas Stout, a rich, balanced brew with carmel-coffee-chocolate undertones, and the White Rock Red. a crisp amber ale with a subtle hop-sizzle. The Tucker’s Golden Wheat (a best-seller], however, was about as exciting as weak herbal tea. The food? Admirably adventurous for a suds house, it sometimes loses its gastro-footing. The Texas-sized Tower O’Rings (onion) were hearty and sweet, but far too greasy. The tortilla-encrusted catfish with roasted tomatillo lime butter almost worked except the fish had an off taste. Half-price menu Sunday evenings is a treat. 2920 N. Henderson Ave.. 214-824-BREW. Moderate.



Burgers/Casual

Chip’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. 4501 Cole Ave., 214-526-1092: 4530 Lovers Ln., 214-691-2447. Inexpensive.

The Ozona Westex Grill and Bar. Set back amid a tangle of trees, this popular gathering spot provides a surprisingly cool, green, countrified retreat in the city. There are no real surprises, and although there are grilled options like salmon salad and a chicken dinner, a bit too heavy reliance on deep frying may well dismay cholesterol counters. A bottle of domestic beer starts at $2.75, there are abundant lunch specials and the portions are very generous, so order conservatively on your first visit. 4615 Greenville Ave.. 214-265-9105. Inexpensive to moderate.

Snuffer’s. The menu’s limited, but it’s hard to go wrong with burgers, the chicken sandwich or the chicken Caesar salad. Go early on weekend nights; the crowds build quickly. 3526 Greenville Ave.. 214-826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd.. Addison, 972-991-8811. Inexpensive.

Cajun/Creole

Co pel and s of New Orleans. Consistently good Cajun food isn’t exactly the easiest thing to find once you stray from the bayou. Copeland’s is largely up to the task; the food makes up in quality and seasoning what it might lack in over-the-top gusto. The fried offerings were perfect-crispy and virtually void of grease-and the blackened redflsh was nicely done if a bit tame. What’s more, every staff member from the manager on down was friendly and polite. Whiie a tad on the pricey side, we’ll be back as long as the Tabasco stays complimentary. 5353 Belt Line Rd.. 972-661-1883. Moderate.

D REVISITS Crescent City Cafe. Crescent City still dishes out solid New Orleans’ chow in authentic French Quarter surroundings and remains one of our favorite “glad-you-thought-of-that-place” alternatives. Though the fried food can be spotty, the gumbo is rich and tasty and the po’ boys consistently good. Even an olive lover can overdose on the excellent mufaletta. and the seafood salad makes a great alternative for anybody actually counting calories on the decidedly non-dietetic menu. For a real treat, match wits with Fern, our favorite Deep Ellum server. 2615 Commerce St.. 214-745-1900. Inexpensive.



LuLu’s Bait Shack. Cajun cuisine with regional nuances ranging from hot to hotter. Buffalo shrimp are hotsy-totsies nicely balanced with a blue cheese dip, and jambalaya carries a major kick. For tamer tongues, try the Chicken Rockafella with oysters, cheese and spinach. Homey mashed Mardi Gras pasta is a mixture of fresh vegetables with capers and sun-dried tomatoes, while a lunch trip’s oyster po-boy proved a solid marriage of cornmeal-battered oysters with tomato, lettuce and mayo. 2621 McKinney Ave.. 214-969-1927. Inexpensive to moderate.



Chinese

Arc-En-Ciel. The menu here offers more than 300 Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, some authentic, some Americanized. Dim sum is also available. Classic Vietnamese spring rolls, with their transparent wrappers displaying their weII-packed interiors of shrimp, vermicelli, mint, pork and garlic chives, taste every bit as good as they look, especially when dipped in the sneakily riot peanut sauce. Tender little shark’s fin dumplings, charcoal-broiled pork over vermicelli and crispy duck disappear fast, but the fresh crab disries require too much work land create too much of a mess) to get the meat out of trie shell. 3555 W. Walnut St., Garland, 972-272-2188. Inexpensive.

Cafe Panda. The personnel here make you feel at home from the get-go. and meticulous attention to detail guar-entees return visits. Start with quail curl, minced and seasoned perfectly, and watch as a team of servers perform a near-ballet in bringing it to your table. Tangerine beef was exceptional; delicate beef strips cooked to a sizzle, blended in a delightful sauce with fruity, chewy tangerine shreds. General Tao’s chicken is offered elsewhere but rarely done as well: spicy, honest-to-goodness chicken breast that’s hot but not hellishly so. with no nuggety, gristly pieces. Order coffee and enjoy trie Jules Verne-ian brewing device brought to your table. 7979 Inwood Rd.. Ste. 121. 214-902-9500. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cathy’s Pacific. 5950-A Royal Ln.. 214-739-3378. Inexpensive to moderate.

Jasmine. Ersatz nightclub ambience collides with hustle-bustle service, but freshly prepared cuisine fortunately transcends both. Exquisite Ming chicken, redolent with spices and served in a crispy cold iceberg lettuce shell, was almost a meal in itself. Some like it hot, opting for Hunan and Szechwan beef-tender, generous helpings and prodigious heat rewarded the palates of even the most jaded jalapeno fans. The ubiquitous general chicken fea tured tender chunks of meat and fiery peppers; try champagne chicken for a cooler, if somewhat bland, warm-weather treat. We had just one gripe: Overly attentive tea and water re-fillers tended to hover like pesky mosquitoes. 4002 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 972-991-6867. Inexpensive to moderate.

May Dragon. Moo shi rolls strike the right balance between sweet (plum sauce), crunchy (bamboo shoots and cabbage) and savory (shredded beef). Lemon chicken transcends the sticky-sweet stuff served in most places. This version’s lemony bite toned down the sugar, but the fried white-meat chicken stops retained not a bit of the grease. However, a house specialty, live-flavor shrimp, has a neon red sauce sweet enough to make your teeth ache, and the fried rice served with entrées (you can opt for plain white or brown rice) needs some rethinking, as it’s pretty much white rice with a few peas and carrots. 4848 Belt Line Rd., 972-392-9998. Moderate.

New Big Wong. If you’re up for a quick and tasty lunch, this place delivers large portions of fare in fast-food time. If a more leisurely dinner is the object, trie complex menu rewards experimentation. 2121 S. Greenville Ave., 214-821-4198. Inexpensive.

Royal China. We waited in anticipation for our general chicken and green pepper beef. And waited. And waited. And watched everybody else eat. When we asked our harried waiter to check on our order, he snapped. “Coming now!” Sure enough, two minutes later, the chicken arrived. Three minutes after that, so did the beef. Verdict? Good. A bit on the bland side, with rather small portions, but on trie positive side, prices were right-just not worth the wait. Maybe we caught a new waiter with bad manners? We never received an explanation for trie delay, but the check was Johnny-on-the-spot. 201 Preston Royal Village, 214361-1771. Inexpensive.

Szechwan Pavilion. S411 Preston Rd., 214-368-4303. Inexpensive.

Taiwan Restaurant. This upstairs restaurant provides a comfortable and quiet setting to study the extensive menu. Lunch specials are a steal, ranging from $5.95 to $9.45 for spicy Szechuan lobster, and are served with soup, egg roll and rice. The wonton soup is flavorful, with crisp bits of lettuce and scallion; the rice was perfectly sticky. Mongolian beef had just the right amount of spice, served with crunchy. colorful veggies. Service was a bit slow and confusing, but it was almost closing time. 4g80 Belt Line Rd.. Ste. 200. Addison, 972-387-2333. Moderate.



Uncle Chow. The menu might be small at this takeout place, but the flavor’s all there, especially if yon start with the pan-fried chicken dumpling.’., lam-packed with tender white meat. Both the won ton soup and the fried rice score high culinary marks. Moo shu is packed the sensible way- the pancake wrappers separate from the sauce, separate from fillers-allowing customers to serve themselves non-soggy food, Fried rice features chunks of shrimp; spring rolls offer plenty of both chicken and shrimp; arid the appetizers can substitute as full meals. 19021 Midway Rd.. 972-306-CHOW. Inexpensive.



Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. After a hard day of shopping the mall, it sure feels good to piop down in a comfortable chair and nosh on the sweet, crunchy walnuts while waiting for the solicitous staff to bring you Uncle Tai’s hot and spicy cuisine. They’re very obliging about toning down the heat when you ask. without removing all the dish’s favor. The food is good enough that you’ll want to take some home, but schlepping garlic-laden Chinese through the mall does tend to curtail further shopping. In the Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy. at LBJ. 972-934-9998. Moderate.



Deli

Dell News. This New York-style deli is dark and uninviting with rudely inattentive service (perhaps a stab at regional authenticity?) that’s slower than a fat slug in mid-fail. The chicken barley soup-a ’specialty”-was dull, limp and gooed with overcooked bow-tie pasta. The Greek salad was fresh and crisp, if unexciting, while the BLT had little else to offer besides its thick, chewy bacon. Our consolation was the authentic bagels: fresh, light and thoroughly satisfying. Crescent Court, Mapie Avenge at Cedar Springs Road, 214-922-3354. Inexpensive to moderate.



Gilbert’s. The classic dell menu doesn’t disappoint, from the finest grilled Reuben in town to overstuffed sandwiches on good rye. The club sandwich is the classic version, with plenty of house-roasted, thinly sliced turkey, preced-edby a choice of deli salaas and a bowl of chubby pickles. You can order from an extensive breakfast menu all day long, where the plate-size i i.inr;akcs and the hearty omelets make decisions difficult. Gilbert’s good corned beef stars in the hash, but the orangey home fries need work. 11661 Preston Rd., 214-373-3333. Inexpensive.



Street’s Famous Sandwiches. How many times can you name a turkey sandwich? Just ask Street’s co-owner Gene Street Jr. The “Famous Sandwiches” section of the menu alone lists six new takes on turkey, including the “Love Song.” The past/ami tasted over nuked-we couldn’t eat it. “Gene’s Favorite” was ours, too-grilled chicken and onions with melted provolone ami spicy Dijon, Grilled por-tobello mushrooms, onions, bell pepper and tomatoes on French bread was soggy but tasty-and runny. Sides included a cheese tortellini salad with walnuts (a winner) and zesty Chinese sesame noodles. Fresh-baked desserts we | sampled included a spongy carrot cake and a “choc-a-holic brownie” unworthy of its calories. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 214 526-2505. Inexpensive.



Eastern European

Athénée Cafe. Wonderful Veal Athénée featuies tender, fresh medallions topped with provoione in a delightful brandy mushroom sauce, with delicious spicy cabbage and flaky rice pilaf. Stuffed Mountain Cabbage is a fabulous signature dish-meatball-si zed beef rolls oven roasted in delicate cabbage leaves with a red wine sauce, just like grandma in Transylvania used to make. Other highlights Include Rumanian sausage, hand packed daily, and veal chop, finished in the pan with dill and mushrooms m white wine sauce. Forget the house salad-try the silky tomato-based spicy vegetable soup instead. Garic bread is bland but forgivable, the wine list adequate, the service avert live and caring. 5365 Spring Valley Rd., Ste. 150, 972-239-8060. Moderate.



Eclectic

Bread Winners. The menu here reflects a never-boring mélange of influences, from homey to refined Asian. Main courses include a center-cut mustard-grilled pork chop that comes thick, juicy and perfectly partnered with scalloped sweet potatoes and pan gravy, and a grilled tuna steak-rosy and near-rare-that wears a tropical salsa of spiced diced fruit. Try it with a Side of lemon whipped potatoes. Desserts here are outstanding, too-Key lime pie holds a paper-thin curl of lime atop its tart cream filling; Banana Jazz features fantasy swirls of chocolate mousse and whipped cream layered with sliced bananas on a dark chocolate crust. 3301 McKinney Ave.. 214-754-4940. Inexpensive to moderate.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St.. 214-741-9012. Inexpensive to moderate.

East Side Grill. Chef Tony Knight, whose Aransas Pass restaurant formerly occupied this space, offers down-home dishes endowed with kicky accents that lift them above common bar food. Notable examples: Chicken-fried steak came with terrific twice baked mashed potatoes and a healthy stir-fry of vegetables. An Aransas burger was a pat-tie of broiled sirloin with roasted poblanos and onions and lack cheese, The homemadte salsa thai accompanies the chicken quesaclillas can make your eyes water from 4 feet away, and fried pickles were surprisingly delicious. 2916 N. Henderson Ave., 214 828 2801. Inexpensive.

8.0 Restaurant and Bar. Get to this hip spot early or risk missing out or imaginative blue- and green-plate specials, such as black bean tamales In a tomatillo sauce or spicy pasta specialties. No! that the regular menu is a dud; burgers, grilled dishes and sandwiches are hearty, fresh and satisfying. Wa tresses are uniformly young, attitude-enhanced and efficient. Stay the hell away on Thursday nights unless you like to watch the beautiful people booze and schmooze shoulder-to-shoulder until the wee hours. In the Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St.. 214-9790880. Inexpensive to moderate.

Firehouse. Chef Bruno Giovanni Mella displays great dexterity in crossing pork chops with mango salsa or andouille sausage with barbecued shrimp: This restaurant is the ultimate in food cross-dressing. And for lire-eaters, this place is the mother lode. 8ut there’s plenty for those who feel faint at the site of a jalapeno. Try the roasted garlic and eggplant dip served m a whole roasted onion-it’s one of the best appetizers we’ve tasted. And 1he straightforward creme brulee is a great way to cool your jets. 1920 Greenville Ave.. 214-826 2468. Moderate to expensive.

Gershwin’s. The ambitious menu walks many fine lines with a presumptive air and succeeds more often than not, out don’t expect a true gourmet experience-seasonings are either too strong, as with overpowering, too-salty pasta sauces, or bland and hotel food-like, such as grilled tilapia on warm orzo salad Best bets are the more traditional ones-steaks, pizzas, salads and sandwiches, all generous, tasty and satisfying. 8442 Walnut Hill Ln. at Greenville Avenue. 214-3737171. Moderate.

The Green Room. Without pretension or hype this ’90s bistro continues to dish out some of the most original and inventive cuisine to be found between New York and LA. The food influences ate Asian, Mediterranean and Southwestern, while the decor’s decidedly rock ’n’ roll. A perfect starter is the oyster stew with morsels of andouille sausage, crawfish and crisp diced tomatoes, all swimming in a fragrant, herbed cream broth. The seared yellowfin tuna, presented on a bed of shiitake mushrooms and corn-size couscous, is a stellar main course. Try the fixed-price, four-course, “feed Me” menu ($341, the best deal in town. 2715 Elm St.. 214-748R00M. Moderate.

The Joint. This upscale pool hall has a global menu with an Asian influence. It includes a wide vanety of choices from Tasmanian lobster to tuna metis and later tots. The lobster was super-tender chunks came in a large bowl with shredded scallions on lop of a tasty potato/fennel hash brown. Corn-crusted chicken arrived juicy and crispy, accompanied by nicely cooked vegetables, and a special of rib-eye steak was eclipsed by blue cheese-laced scalloped potatoes. Service is grout, unci the pIace stays open until 2 a.m. for late-night dining. 2727 Cedar Springs Rd.. 214-754-0101. Inexpensive to moderate.

Margaux’s. Cafe Margaux owner Kay Agnew has reopened yet again, in ami; ;h smaller space wearing a suitably shorter name and with a mealtime menu that includes lunch weekdays and dinner Thursay only. The best-loved dishes are still here- shrimp and sausage gumbo is the real thing. and cornmeal-crnsted oysters are crisp-skinned delights. An appetizer of baked brie with peach chutney is rather too hearty for a first course, but would be a scrumptious lunch entree paired with a house salad of mixed greens. The caramel-sauced warm apple bread pudding, a perennial favorite, was as wonderful as ever. 2404 Cedar Springs Rd.. 214 7401985. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mark’s on Henderson. Chef-owner Mark Jenson has turned this intimate 13-table bistro-formerly Pinots-Into a grown-up wine bar by serving hot food. Browse the cellar and choose a bottle or circle the globe by sampling international wines by the glass. A moderately priced chalkboard menu lists an eclectic selection of entrees, which vary daily. Our visit was highlighted by Russian chicken-a breast covered with a sauce loaded with grilled onions and cilantro . Desserts were limited to two types of cheesecake and fresh berries. 2926 Henderson Ave.. 214-841-0900. Moderate.

Mel Hollen’s Bar and Fine Dining., Mel Hollen. who has designed and opened a number of well-loved Dallas eateries, finally has opened iiplar;e of his own. The day’s seafood special, swordfish stuffed with shrimp on risotto, a beautiful inch-thick cut of swordfish with a dozen small shrimp sandwiched inside it, had unfortunately spent too much time under the heat lamp. However, the pepper steak arrived exactly as requested: medium rare. The fist-size filet, encrusted with cracked black peppercorns, was tender yet lean and chewy, full of flavor. For dessert, we shared angelica Frangetica, slivers of angel food cake soaked in Frangelica liqueur, topped with sliced strawberries. If only the cake had spent a bit more time in the liqueur. 15175 Quorum Dr., Addison, 972-233-6357. Moderate to expensive.

Piano Café. Choose the mixed green salad instead of the Caesar and opt for the zingy raspberry vinaigrette. A feast of vegetables accompanies each generous meal, and most people leave loaded with leftovers. Juicy, freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans, and vegetarians will find much to choose from. Two more surprises: a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list, including a warm French apple pie (homemade, like everything else here) accompanied by Chambord/Frangelico ice cream, whipped cream and berries. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 500, Piano, 972-516-0865. Moderate.

Sipango. Chef Matthew Antonovich’s menu sets out an array of selections various enough to allow for grazing or snacking as well as course-by-course dining. An appetizer of tuna seared rare, for example, made a perfect starter for a light supper; a small-plate dish of mushroom-fortified risotto completed a satisfying meal. On the more substantial side, an entree of veal marsala covered its plate with classically sauced, thin slices draped on a cushion of polenta, accented with wild mushrooms and Texas goat cheese. Richer desserts can be had. but we found the house-made sorbettos captivating-fresh watermelon won out over a more exotic red papaya sampled. Service was amiable, with some timing lapses; live music was a treat, once the too-loud cocktail pianist made way for a combo; people-watching was its own entertainment. 4513 Travis St., 214-522-2411. Moderate.



St. Pete’s Dancing Marlin. 2730 Commerce St.. 214-698-1511. Inexpensive.



Tarazza. This menu borrows ideas from all over the work]- a Japanese version of Italian risotto, a French duck confit salad, a thai soup-adds its own spin, and leaves taste buds dancing in its wake. The appetizers rank as the strongest part of the menu: the desserts are its weakest. Crab cakes are teamed with a sprightly coriander mayonnaise, and although the menu offers plenty of options like tender roast duckling or sautéed pork tenderloin enlivened with ginger, scallions and coconut, it’s the seafood-such as cashew-crusted snapper or Norwegian salmon-that really shines. The sole dessert we tried, a very odd pancake-type affair topped with coconut ginger ice cream, scared us away from the dessert list on other visits, but the dark, inviting bar area might be a better end to your meal. 4514 Travis St., 214-521-2175. Moderate.



D REVISITS The Thomas Avenue Beverage Com-pany. Strip away the pretentious facade that has become the trademark of most of Dallas’ “finer” restaurants, replace it with a healthy dose of culinary finesse and you have the Thomas Avenue Beverage Company. No mandatory valet or mango-peach-flavored tea here-instead you will find Chef Michael Smith at his open stove serving a healthy mix of southwest, cajun and New American cuisine. The roast pork chop with spinach sautéed with apple butter literally melts off the bone. The menu changes weekly, based on availability of fresh ingredients. 2901 Thomas Ave.. 214-979-0452. Inexpensive to moderate.



Yvette. The menu here suits the regal setting-dark wood, etched glass and brass softened by red velvet curtains and hand-painted murals-with all the appetizers you’d expect: Oysters Rockefeller, escargot and carpaccio, but their average cost of more than $9 seems high. Yvette, part owned by Dallas Cowboys owner Jerry Jones and coach Barry Switzer, does score some absolute touchdowns, like a perfect Caesar salad and a Dover sole so tender and nicely seasoned it’s gone before you had time to appreciate it. The wine list needs expansion, and the side dishes would benefit from a dash of creativity, but the service the entire night couldn’t have been better. End with the smooth, rich but not too sweet chocolate terrine, and you’ll emerge a winner. 14775 Midway Rd.. Addison. 972-503-9777. Moderate to expensive.



French/Continental

Addison Cafe. Here, there are contradictions-our pan-seared snapper melted like butter, but the smoked salmon topping was somewhat dry and chewy. Sautéed sea bass arrived crispy, perfectly moist and flaky, yet bread rolls tasted store-bought. And because service is studiously languorous, we were never quite sure who our waiter was. 5290 Bell Line Rd. at Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-991-8824. Moderate to expensive.



Arthur’s. This restaurant’s reputation as a prime steak place is deserved but too limiting. The kitchen’s ways with seafood, veal, fowl and even pasta are winners, too, and the appetizer list includes shrimp cocktail, escargot and steak tartare, proudly prepared with old-world pomp at tableside. Rack of lamb’s rosy chops were fork-tender and appropriately sided with a tomato rose and vegetables carved in the presentation-conscious French fashion. Seduced by ceremony, we forewent dessert soufflés to share bananas Foster, not on the menu, but lovingly prepared, flamed and served by our waiter as we watched. Cherries jubilee is another unlisted indulgence; we’ll save those for the restaurant’s upcoming 50th anniversary. Vive les classiques! 8350 N. Central Expwy. (in Campbell Center), 214-361-8833. Expensive.



Barclays. Don’t come to Barclays expecting to find a pint of bitter and bangers and mash. This isn’t pub food, luv; this is royal fare with a European twist. Potato ravioli stuffed with stilton cheese and wild mushrooms was of regal status; a monument of vegetables was a purist’s dream. And if you’re looking for that perfect place to “pop” the question or celebrate something special, look no further: this place is a gem-a real bobbysazzler. 2917 Fairmont St., 214-855O7C0. Moderate to expensive.



Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave., 214-522-6865. Moderate.



The French Room. Perfection is not a word to be tossed lightly into restaurant reviews, but this Adolphus Hotel crown jewel came close on our last visit. One entrée plate presented rounds of roasted duck breast on half moons of lemon thyme polenta in ruby port wine sauce; the other held succulent roasted veal tenderloin with Brie cheese and pear gratin on truffled opal basil risotto and a haunting rosemary thyme sauce. One dessert was a light sina mélange of fresh berries bedded on pastry with warm caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream; trie other, a dark one-hoi chocolate cake, rich and crusty around a molten center, ice-cream topped on Amaretto crème Anglaise, The French Room’s by-the-glass wine selection offers a nicer vanety than we’ve seen elsewhere. In the Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce St.. 214-742-8200. Expensive.

Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave., 214-528-6010. Moderate to expensive.

Lavendou. We were in search of a classic French meal when we headed to Lavendou, and what we got was textbook- from the food down to the traditional patterns of yellow and blue in the decor. Appetizers were somewhat disappoint ing, but from then on, the meal was above reproach. Duck roasted with black currants pleased my picky French friend, and the pommes frites were pure Paris. Don’t think, however, Lavendou is immune from commercialism; patrons may purchase pottery from the restaurant’s signature line of ocher-and-lavender-colored objets. 19009 Preston Rd., 972-248-1911. Moderate to expensive.

Old Warsaw. Hanging on to a reputation as one of Dallas’ elite restaurants is tough business, indeed. Unfortunately, the Old Warsaw, for many years one of the city’s standard bearers, seems sadly to be losing its grip. Make no mistake-you must make a conscious effort to find much fault with the excellent food. The problem: When you shell out the money required for Old Warsaw’s fare, you expect a flawless total experience. Our servers were acceptably pleasant, but we were never quite sure exactly who our waiter was. An attentive maitre’d could have smoothed some of these rough edges, but ours was too busy fawning over a single table of his favorite regulars. Like an aging heavyweight champ hoping to win close fights on the basis of reputation rather than performance, The Old Warsaw might well be the old warhorse of Dallas, a disappointing reminder that in this town, it’s tough at the top. 2610 Maple Ave.. 214-528-0032. Expensive.

The Pyramid Room. That vastly overused word, opulence, has to be hauled out yet again here-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it; here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, on our visit, also deserved superlatives. Grilled quail halves were pretty little things on Marsala-glazed arugula leaves; grilled snapper with shiitake mushrooms in lobster butter sauce was satisfying, Macadamia nut torte was a dense disappointment, particularly compared with a companion’s a la carte dessert indulgence-a gooey dome of warm chocolate polenta filled with caramel on bourbon-laced sauce with vanilla ice cream. The courses preceding that sin were stellar, too-duck confit was tenderness itself in a wine-poached pear; lobster bisque was satin-rich and cognac-kissed. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 214-720-5249. Expensive.

St. Martin’s. Rich paneling, soft-lit paintings and touches of muted gold create the setting; live music shapes the proper evening mood. And chef Rich Hollister’s food delivered sophisticated fulfillment on our visit, from the first velvety spoonful of champagne Brie soup, to the blackened halibut fillet. Peach cobbler was less exciting, but the by-the-glass wine selection was admirably broad and service struck exactly the correct happy balance of attentive discretion. 3020 Greenville Ave., 214-825-0940. Moderate to expensive.

Tramontana. Where to start? Try the marinated goat cheese, peppered and nestled on top of herbed greens. We also savored the soups: Deep-flavored French onion was topped with fine Gruyere cheese, and the haricots vert have a strong, fresh presence in the creamed green bean potage. Entrees exceeded our expectations. Pan-seared salmon was bathed in a tart caper sauce and served with grilled polenta and steamed spinach. Other winning entrees were the ravioli stuffed with spinach and mushrooms and the super-plump filet mignon sauced with Cabernet, served with a side of crunchy green beans and rosemary potatoes. The desserts are made in-house. Preston Center’s got itself a winner. 8220B Westchester Dr., 214-368-4188. Inexpensive to moderate.

D REVISITS Watel’s. Sure, you’ll find weird organ meats like calves brains doctored with capers and veal kidneys touched with mushrooms to satisfy the strand of old world gastronomic esoterica that quivers in your palate. But you’ll also find exquisite contrasts like incomprehensibly delicate rare tuna coated with crunchy peppercorns and tightly structured grilled shrimp with red pepper coulis-all served in a crisp, clean space that reaches a dazzling splash in the glass-enclosed patio. Service is a little choppy, but the overall experience neuters the abrasions. 1923 McKinney Ave., 214-720-0323. Moderate.



What Else. A silly name, but we found serious well-prepared French-country cooking in a cozy dining room. Despite somewhat lackadaisical service, we wept with joy over our pistou-a vegetable soup with white beans and vermicelli. Slow cooked, tender duck leg confit fell off the bone and was accompanied by a creamy risotto. A classic tarte tain-upside-down apple tart-was good, but not fresh, Pay-by-the course menu reminds us that eating French food doesn’t have to be an intimidating or expensive experience. 1915 Greenville Ave., 214-S74-WHAT. Moderate.



Gourmet to Go

Betty’s Brisket and Gourmet Foods. At this take-out shop, order brisket or turkey as a meal complete with mashed potatoes, vegetables and bread; or order meat by the pound. Also; killer desserts, appetizers. 17390 Preston Rd., 972-931-9094. Inexpensive.



City Cafe To Go. Forget the usual take-home options and get dinner here. Soup scores high marks, from Une famous sprightly tomato soup to the buttery, bacony clam chowder. Sandwiches also score major points for creativity, with many inspired combinations. Two of the several salads were excellent: one with big, tender shrimp and fat asparagus spears; another with couscous and artichokes. Other dazzling salads include a Chinese version laced with sesame seeds and one wrth a peppery chicken in a cream sauce. Desserts are even better, from a thoroughly decadent Blum cake, with its cascades of sugary crisps to a simple dish of berries. One ques tion; Where’s the bread? Besides bread, two visits-including one involving a hefty $125 tab-left us with no butter, utensils, napkins, plates or even a stray toothpick in our take-home pack. 5757 N. Lovers Ln., 214-351-3366. Moderate.



Eatzi’s. If you haven’t been here yet, shame on you-Eatzi’s is one of those places that definitely lives up to its hype. You can waltz in here and cruise the store looking for just the right entrée, loaf of bread, salad and dessert, and walk out with the already cooked makings of a gourmet dinner-down to the imported beer and the fresh flowers. The selection also Includes salad and sandwiches made to order and chicken roasted in your choice of several ways. In the course of the year since it’s been open, the food’s quality hasn’t diminished. The selection of beer and wine is slim, considering the food it’s accompanying. And yes. Eatzi’s is crowded, and there still isn’t much room at the checkout. Bui you’ll be enjoying that food for much longer than you had to fight the crowd to get it, and for many that’s the attraction of Eatzi’s. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-526-1515. Inexpensive to moderate.



La Spiga. You may have to track down La Spiga, tucked away in a warehouse area, but it’s well worth the effort. Customers line up to buy these rustic, crusty loaves of preservative-free bread served at many of the finest restaurants in town. But there’s plenty more being dished up here, including tureens of homemade soup (excellent cream of mushroom) and sandwiches on big, soft pillows of panini rolls. Mini-quiches and fruit plates fill the bill for anytime snacks, focaccia comes pizza-style and Caesar salads are a garlicky hit. 4203 Lindberg Dr., Addison. 972-934-8730. Inexpensive.



Marty’s Cale Tu Gogh. Although it’s still a bit of a circuitous puzzle determining where to go for what, Marty’s has ironed out some of the more shrill kinks we experienced from earlier visits with a friendlier, more helpful staff and hot entrees. Among the entrées were a marinated salmon sandwich with caramelized onions, a beef tenderloin Caesar salad and a tangy hearts of palm salad-all standouts. It’s astounding, though, how nonchalantly Marty’s seems to be marrying Cafe TuGogh with its greatest asset: wine. Marty’s is now a true wine bar with weekly wine-by-the-glass selections featuring some of the most distinctive pours from the world’s major wine regions-and at jaw-droppingly reasonable prices ($4-$10). Yet there is no suggestive selling or effective cross-merchandising. We find that Marty’s, as a Dallas institution, has a lot more soul and a refined culinary ear that consistently discovers and creates wine and food virtuosity. So why is there no joy here? 3316 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526 4070. Inexpensive to moderate.



Greek

Kostas Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave., 214-987-3225: 4621 W. Park Blvd.. Piano. 972-596-8424. Moderate.

Ziziki’ft. The gleaming wooden bar may be one of the places to be seen in Dallas, but it’s the food that reigns supreme. An order or two of Ziziki bread (homemade pita bread broiled with two cheeses and herbs) teams well with any of the carefully crafted salads. Lamb and shrimp star (the lamb souvlaki, skewered lamb ready to be popped into homemade pita bread, makes a can’t-be-beat sandwich), and the homemade Italian cream cake ends meals on a sweet note. The wines, from all over the globe, demonstrate the owners’ never-ending quest for the best. You’ll want to visit the coffee bar/take-out shop for some of your Ziziki favorites (like their mouthwatering sauces). 4514 Travis St., Ste. 122. 214-521-2233. Moderate to expensive.



Home Cooking

Barbec’s. What becomes a legend? In this case, it’s mystique, that warm, fuzzy something that wraps the loved familiar in romance regardless of performance. Which is fine with Barbec’s regulars-they’ve got their tabloid newsprint menu, their hearty, what-can-l get-you-Hon? waitresses, their awesome anytime breakfasts White Rockers and friends have been queuing for on weekends for God knows how long. Nevermind that somebody’s mom’s down-home cooking-a bewilderment of pinto beans, meat loaf, fried fish, Mexican plates, you name it-runs to from-scratch chicken-fried steak blanketed in unseasoned library paste, baked potatoes steamed in foil, and overboiled broccoli. But hey- it’s all cheap, and they’ve always got those legendary beer biscuits, sweet and high and truly loved by all. Great meringue pies, too. Really. 8949 Garland Road. 214-321-5597. Inexpensive.

Casa Linda Cafeteria. The hairnet is alive and well in Casa Linda, behind the virtually endless serving counter at this culinary heir to the Highland Park Cafeteria. We are always amazed at the quantity of food selections here-a dozen salads. 30 entrees, 20 sides. 10 types of bread, a dozen desserts. Unfortunately, we are also amazed at how uniformly institutional everything tastes. A recent visit included a good sampling of dishes from every category-just as a test, you understand. The only stand-out we discovered was the inventive chopped spinach salad (with shredded egg and cheese and a dab of horseradish!, one of HPC’s signature dishes. There’s a logo section full of salads, soups and baked potato fixings for those in a hurry. 300 Casa Linda Plaza; 214-324-5000. Inexpensive.

Celebration. Leave your pretense at home, but bring your appetite to this long-time mecca for Dallas home-cooking purists. In this rambling former residence are several cozy dining areas dousing a few tables each, a luxury (hat keeps noise to a mimmum and complements a congenial, if somewhat unhurried, staff (be prepared to flag down your server on occasion). Entrees run the gamut from broiled fresh fish to pot roast (you’ll swear Mom made it) to fried chicken, all accompanied by an endless supply of vegetables. Don’t worry if your entree seems small-you can reorder as often as you wish and even sample other entrées. Desserts are always worth the wait, but you’ II have to make a conscious effort to save room for them. All this and reasonable prices, too-no mystery why this is a favorite locale for no-holds-barred, to-hell with-the diet indulgence. Parking and table space go fast during peak dinner hours. 4503 W. Lovers In., 214 351-5681. inexpensive.

Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines Blvd.. 214-352-0051. Inexpensive.

Poor Richard’s Cafe. Home-cooked food, featuring a huge breakfast spread. 2442 Ave. K at Park Boulevard, Piano, 972-4231524. Inexpensive.

Spiro’s New York Cafe. This place has all the elements of a great neighborhood joint: relaxed, come as-you-are atmosphere, regulars chatting with each other and an owner who comes out to greet his customers. And. like most casual neighborhood finds, the service is cheerful, but slow. In other words, be glad there is a stack of People magazines on the floor to flip through while you wait for your waitress. Our entrees consisted of fettucini alfredo that was tasty and not too heavy, and chicken fried steak that was too soggy. But the Greek salad that comes with that chicken fried steak might just be the best we’ve ever tasted. Good food overshadowed the slow service until a question arose about the bill; that’s when the cheerful waitress who we forgave before turned downright nasty. But a charming owner was quick to smooth over any rough edges, so we’ll put the past behind us and head back for lunch. 700 E. 15th St.. Piano, 972 881 2959. Inexpensive.



Indian

Bombay Cricket Club. Though we’re easily fooled about the nuances of cricket (the game), the food here is definitely cricket with us, especially the incendiar y chicken ven-daloo, the soothing saag paneer (chunks of homemade cheese in creamed spinach) and the curry kissed aloo ben-gan. which combines eggplant, potatoes, onions and tomatoes. Having heard raves about the leg of lamb from the tandoor, we’re saving it for the next round, or inning, or chukker. or whatever they call it. 2508 Maple Ave.. 214-871-1333. Inexpensive to moderate.

India Palace. Delicate spices imbue truly fine Indian cuisine with attributes similar to a fine perfume-too much creates an assault on the senses; too little, and there’s no magic. India Palace has maintained that proper balance for nearly a decade and shows no signs of slowing down. Complimentary, crispy papad (lentil wafers) make a fine segue to appetizers like fried vegetable pakora or fragrant mulligatawny soup, a hearty broth of lentils, rice and chicken. Entrées include moist, flavorful Tandoori chicken, exceptional paneer masala (tofu in a creamy tomato sauce) and our perennial fave, saag paneer (spinach and tofu). Crank up the heat with vendaloo or curry, with your choice of beef, chicken or lamb. Whatever you do. don’t miss the killer breads: onion kulcha, nan or roti, served straight from the tandoor, hot as lava. 12817 Preston Rd., Ste. 105, 972-392-0190. Inexpensive to moderate.



Italian

Alessio’s. This cozy strip-center fixture boasts a loyal following of regulars, but our last trip didn’t quite place us solidly in their camp. After noticing the alarmingly overpriced wine selections, we ordered the cheapest red avail able-an understandably popular choice. We grazed on complimentary bruschetta and fresh vegetables while reviewing the pricey menu and a difficult-to-read chalkboard describing the even pricier evening specials. An appetizer of mild Italian sausage, onions and peppers under a blanket of melted mozarella cheese was excellent, but the dinner salad that followed was woefully plain. Inconsistency marred the main course as well-the grilled lamb was superb, but our pasta selection got mixed reviews, and the bland vegetables failed to interest us beyond the first tast ing. We left feeling slightly underwhelmed and more than slightly overcharged. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr.. 214-521-3585. Expensive.

Alfonso “s. 718 N. Buckner Blvd., Ste. 222. 214 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Angelo’s Italian Grill. When you think of classic Italian favorites, what triggers your Pavlovian response? Lasagna? Spaghetti? Scampi? Chicken parmesan? Pizza? This place has it all, and the experience starts in the parking lot as you inhale the delicious aromas wafting through the air. At a recent all-out occasion, we partook of one weekend spe cial that erased our craving for seafood: eight crab-stuffed shrimp atop a pile of angel-hair pasta tossed with sauteed shrimp. We also shared clams marinara and a huge helping of fettucini alfredo. All meals come with a substantial Ceasar salad and out-of-the-oven garlic rolls with marinara sauce for dipping. The wine list is extensive, even by the glass. And check out the colorful murals of Italy. 6341 La Vista Dr.. 214-823-5566. Inexpensive.

Camptsi’s Egyptian. Dallas is full of fancy Italian restaurants. But when tastes turn to the simple, the classic, the delicious, folks head for this cozy (often crowded] gastronomic institution. The menu is a patchwork quilt of favorite dishes-lasagna. scampi, spaghetti, the famous pizzas. We couldn’t resist starting with an order of Joe’s garlic toast, like the standard fare but more so; it went fast. Salads followed, then came the entrees, presented garnish-free on bare, beige Dallas Ware plastic plates. Who cares about presentation when the food is so good? Veal piccata with fettucine alfredo and linguini with clams in r sauce were quickly inhaled. We tried to linger over our drinks, picking out the famous faces on the wall of commemorative photos, but we were done and gone in less than an hour. Cash or check only. 5610 E. Mockingbird In.. 214-827-0355. Inexpensive to moderate.

Covino’s. Buried deep inside a series of strip malls, Covino’s Pasta and Pizza draws raves for its New York-style pizza-a thin, crisp dough lightly topped with whole (not skim) mozzarella and just a whisper of tomato sauce. That same dough makes the richly stuffed calzones especially good. Pastas, especially the hearty lasagne and tortellini with pesto. earn high marks due to their sprightly sauces. Meatball subs can’t be beat but, like all sandwiches here, require a hearty appetite. Owner Joe Covino (a transplanted New Yorker] is usually on hand greeting the regulars in this tiny, unpretentious trattoria, while his wife Michele is at home making her scrumptious cheesecakes for the restaurant. 3265 Independence Pkwy.. Piano. 972-519-0345. Inexpensive.

D REVISITS Joey’s. Since Joey’s opened in late 1995, if you weren’t a High Profile regular, chances are you’d spend most of your evening nursing a cocktail in Joey’s always-packed bar. The good news is Joey’s now takes reservations. Owner Joey Vallone and Chef Michael Wahl have created a diverse menu of Italian favorites, all presented with restrained innovation. Anti-pasti included a tangy grilled portobello mushroom and a vegetable tower-eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes and wild mushrooms between layers of fontina cheese. Among the entrees were a red snapper special-cooked just right- and the rigatoni Vallone with artichokes, asparagus tips and Louisiana heads-on prawns. Traditional desserts, like tiramisu. showed best; the creme brulee was nearly ethereal. The wine list is well-represented between California and italy, and there is a good selection of wines by the glass. Unfortunately the waitstaff was not familiar enough with the list to make solid recommendations. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-0074. Moderate to expensive.

Mi Placl. During trie day, sunlight drenches Mi Piaci, shadows play off the twisted columns, drawing eyes up to the skylights way above. At night, the rooms are cloaked in soft, romantic darkness. At all times, these sparingly decorated, hipper-than-hip rooms are filled with people who look like theyjust stepped off the fashion pages. The menu focuses on classic Tuscan cuisine, with homemade pasta, made-to-order risotto and superb breads. But Mi Piaci also serves up massive juicy pork chops teamed with roast gar lie mashed potatoes, and you’ll always see waiters expertly deboning the meltingly tender Dover sole for savvy diners. Our only complaint: The noise level can get pretty high. 14854 Montfort Dr., 973-934-8424. Moderate.

Modo Mio. We were skeptical about finding decent “Cucina Rustica Italiana” off the North Dallas Toliway, but were pleasantly surprised by the charming decor, excellent staff and innovative menu. Gnocchi Modo Mio wasn’t Rome, but it beat the pants off local imitations, and the tiramisu had the perfect proportion of mascarpone to fadyfingers. The overall service was efficient and unobtrusive-this packed restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine. 18352 Dallas Pkwy., Ste. 112, 972-671-MODO. Moderate.

Nicola’s. From its tony Tuscan al fresco decor to the woody perfume of grilled meats, Nicola’s exudes a breezy confidence beyond typical mall restaurants. But the more ambitious menu selections fail short of their lofty aspirations. On one visit, crackling-hot. delicious pizzas, generous salads and service were all exemplary. On another, our pasta carbonara looked rewarmed, the chicken focaccia sandwich oozed a gooey, plastery cheese and service was perfunctory. So. roil the dice. For a light meal, glass of wine and view of Dallas shoppers at their trendy best, the place is hard to beat-just don’t set your culinary expectations too high. In the Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 972-788-1177. Inexpensive to moderate.





D REVISITS Pomodoro. The white-tiled walls and floors and odd faucet-like lighting of this trendy dining spot give this Cedar Springs mainstay shower-like appeal. But this in no way takes away from the charm of the little garlic trees that sit in the windows or the fresh flowers that grace each table. As for the food, Pomodoro deserves applause. While the minestrone soup tasted like little more than dishwater, the restaurant completely redeemed itself with the mozzarella pomodoro e basitico, beautiful slices of tomato dressed with Buffalo mozzarella, olive oil and fresh basil. Frittata végétale was equally tasty: an open faced ometette with oven roasted vegetables and basil served with a light tomato-basil sauce. Don’t think we escaped without dessert-tiramisu, of course. Their version, though a little heavy on the mas-carpone, was delicious. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-1924. Moderate.



Ruggerl’s Rlstorante. 2911 Routh St., 214-871-7377; 5348 Belt Line Rd., 972-726-9555. Moderate.



Toscana. Although we found a few small Haws-a starter of yellow-corn polenta that should have been crispy was soggy on arrivai-we found more to praise, from lusty sourdough bread served with pesto-herbed olive oil to a nibble of portobello mushroom in orange grappa sauce on creamy polenta. And a pizza we tried played pancetta’s salty crunch and assertive gorgonzola against sweet ribbons of caramelized onions in an arugula chiffonade. Entrees were just as outstanding, from the sautéed trout in a delicate lemon-tarragon butter to grilled quail with a red pepper cannelloni bear tart. But the star is the risotto with chicken, porcini mushrooms, tomato and Gorgonzola cheese. The standout on the dessert menu: a tiramisu bread pudding with marcarpone cream, hazelnuts and Frangelico sauce. 4900 McKinney Ave.. 214-521-2244. Moderate.



Japanese

Deep Sushi. Tuna and fresh salmon were kindergarten starters any sushi novice could love. Sea eel and sea urchin were sweeter and less substantial, but with textured tenderness. Surf clam was an artistic high point-the rice oblong topped with a cut of geoduck, shading from satin white to a chewy scarlet tip. belted with seaweed. The Dragon Lady Roll is a long combination of tuna, avocado and rice flashed with incendiary wasabi, red pepper sauce and Japanese yellow mustard wrapped in seaweed and sliced. One shared dessert was pleasant petals of banana, tempura-fried and honey-drizzled, ringing a mound of barely sweet green tea ice cream. The plum wine sorbet was outstanding, its mauve smoothness laced with tart little bits of the fruit. 2624 Elm St., 214-651-1177. Moderate to expensive.



Hana. 14865 Inwood Rd., 972-991-8322. Moderate.



Mr Sushi. 4860 Belt Une Rd., 972-385-0168. Moderate.



Nakamoto. Service tends to range from the sublime to the abrupt at this stylish, roomy North Piano institution, but cuisine remains uniformly excellent. Japanese food neophytes can be comfortable with traditional, lightly fried tem-pura offerings or “bento” box lunches-samplings of tender beef or chicken teriyaki, sautéed salmon batayaki or kara age (delicate fried chicken) and California rolls. More adventuresome diners will be rewarded by appetizers of karariage (flounder wrapped in seaweed then lightly fried) or succulent, salty soft-shell crab. Sushi and sashimi are all perfectly sliced and presented with proper panache: Experiment with dragon rolls, unagi (eel) hand rolls, or ask the sushi master to fix something fun, 3309 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road, Piano. 972-881-0328. Moderate.



Sushi at the Stonelelgh. Every bite we sampled was delectable, from the basic raw tuna, yellowtail and salmon cuts to a more exotic spider roll of crunchy-cooked, soft-shell crab wrapped in seaweed and rice. Chefs-special baked mussels were divine, warmly blanketed in the half-shell by a lush blend of mayonnaise and golden smelt eggs. The salmon roe on seaweed wrapped rice burst voluptuously on the tongue. Don’t forget appetizers: The miso soup, with hidden cubes of silken tofu and gently pickled emerald seaweed, was delightful. 2927 Maple Ave.. 214-871-7111. Inexpensive to moderate.



Sushi Sake. Sushi Sake is half-hidden in a Fleetwood Square strip in Richardson that we’d call hard to find if so many aficionados weren’t finding it. Many are admirers from chef-owner Takashi Soda’s former days as sushi chef of Nakamoto in Piano. Our first dinner favored the familiar and we found every one immaculate and fresh. A second visit’s bolder exploration blew us away. Important to note is that even the most everyday classics from the sushi bar wore some extra touch of delicate garnish that reflects the attention Soda and staff lavish even on small details. Unfortunately, though, Sushi Sake cuts you precious little slack on the language front. Such problems, though, tend to underscore the positives here: a warmly upbeat ambience, willing attendance to every need, an arresting selection of sakes, hot and cold-and of course, the food. 220 W. Campbell Rd., 972-4700722. Moderate.



Mediterranean

D REVISITS Adelmo’s. Somegoforthe food, some go for the intimacy, but almost everybody finds a reason to go back to this well-hidden gem. Service is unhurried and patient, and the wine list varied and reasonable. Entrées and appetizers alike feature creatively bold sauces that held our attention long after the main ingredients of the dishes had been devoured. Our only complaint was that we had to join a 12-step program to stop eating the bread. 1537 Cole Ave., 214-559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

The Bistro. No longer must one’s choice be narrowed here to a single starter, one entree and dessert to make up a meal. That option’s still on the menu, but so is the opportunity to sample hot and cold teasers of every addictive sort, from soups to salads, from a listing of more than 30, and the daily specials. Start, say, with gazpacho-a thick, smooth, piquant version-or a small Caesar salad traditionally dressed and tossed with croutons and Parmesan. Proceed to cigars of fried goat cheese spiked with garlic, paprika and cilantro; ravioli of wild mushrooms; or garlic shrimp vivaciously seasoned with red chili pepper. Along the way, succumb to fresh foie gras sautéed with raisins and port sauce or lobster soufflé, meltingly airy and splendidly sauced. Our only disappointment was the steak tartare that was so strongly endowed with horseradish and capers, the beef flavor struggled to come through. 5405 W. Lovers Ln., 214-352-1997. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cafe Express. This restaurant serves up quick meals that are fresh, health-conscious and budget-friendly. The wholesome emphasis can be found in the salads, sandwiches, chicken and pastas. But beware: There are a bevy of burgers-like the blue cheese and bacon burger-and a bountiful display of desserts-like chocolate pot de creme–to tempt the weak. The most delightful feature is the Oasis, a bar that is laden with goodies like olives, pickles, freshly grated cheese, mustards, oils and other condiments you’ll need to improve some of the menu’s blander offerings. Four-cheese fettuccine. for example, needed a sprinkle of that Parmesan, and the greens under a salad trio of Tuscany tuna, chicken and pasta pesto needed a sharp shot of oil and vinegar to bring them to life. 3230 McKinney Ave., 214-999-9444. Inexpensive.

Cafe Instanbul. Hiding unpretentiously in an easily overlooked recess. Cafe Istanbul stands out as a notable exception to justifiable shopping-center food apprehensions. The tiny kitchen overachieves on most of its TurKish dishes, especially if your tastes lean to the grilled and spicy. The sausage appetizer gets better with every visit, and the entrées-though hard to pronounce-are consistently good. The dining room gets cozy at night thanks to the ubiquitous candles, but those who tolerate some early evening daylight are rewarded with a benevolent happy hour. Solid service tops off an excellent experience currently luring more and more regulars. We’ll be back. 5450 W. Lovers Ln.,Ste. 222, 214-902-0919. inexpensive to moderate.

Mediterraneo. Chef David Holben’s exquisite culinary artistry, a casually elegant decor and efficient service combine to create a sublimely magical Medierranean bistro that’s a cousin to the very successful Riviera. Of particular interest: Méditerranée’s S9.95 luncheon menu includes appetizer and entrée. 18111 Preston Rd. at Frankford Road, Ste. 120, 972-447-0066. Moderate to expensive.

PoPoLo’s. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 214-692-5497. Moderate.

Sambuca. Both of Sambuca’s locations (Deep Ellum and Addison) are wonderfully vibrant restaurants featuring innovative Mediterranean cuisine for those who enjoy their meals with jazz. Each location presents well-known groups ranging from quartets to big bands seven nights a week, but unfortunately the decibel level prohibits any casual dinner conversation during performances. The food is tasty, utilizing lots of spices, garlic and herbs. Good pasta dishes include spinach tomato linguine with smoked chicken and penne tossed with smoked salmon. The reasonably-priced wine list is naif California, half European. Classic desserts are well prepared, especially the rich tiramisu. Good bar scene, too. 15207 Addison Rd., Addison, 972-385-8455: 2618 Elm St.. 214-744-0820. Moderate.



Mexican

Avila’s. This is the food you’d come home to if you could and leave home for if you must, starting with the eye-watering salsa. Beef tacos are brim-full of good, greaseless ground beef, and a plump enchilada is perfectly partnered with a soft cheese taco. The retried beans are outstanding. The service is pleasant, and the restaurant is immaculate. 4714 Maple Ave., 214-520-2700. Inexpensive.



Cant In a Laredo. With local Tex-Mex growing more and more gastronomicatly androgenous, it’s the little things that separate the best from the also-rans. Canting Laredo’s attention to detail shows throughout the meal. Chips come with two excellent warm sauces, and our entrées were flawless, led by some of the tastiest fajita meat we’ve ever run across. Predictable rice and beans were uninspired, but we were only too happy to shove them aside and get back to our main courses. Our advice? To hell with decisions- order the monstrous sampler platter and take home the leftovers. 8121 Walnut Hill Ln? 214-987-9192: 4546 Belt Une Rd. Addison, 972-45&0962. Inexpensive.



Casa Navarro. This wonderful descendant of downtown’s late, lamented El Taxco offers classic Tex-Mex in true hole-in-the-wall style. Complimentary borracho bean soup, fresh chips, kicky salsa and easy, relaxed service-it’s all setup for huge, steaming portions that’ll ruin tomorrow’s cholesterol test, but what a way to go. Hot, buttery enchiladas, down-home tamales and frijoles all have that ineffable tang only homemade can deliver. Huffy rice and perfect tacos- all at luncheon-special prices-make this place a godsend for North Dallas-types hankering for a Mex-fix. Can’t wait? There’s breakfast, too. In the Park Forest Shopping Center, 11742 Marsh Ln., Ste. A. 214-357-0141. Inexpensive.



Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village, 214-350-5227. Inexpensive.

Chihuahua Charlie’s. With offerings such as cactus soup with whole pinto beans and a beef fillet simmered in chipo-tle sauce blanketed with Chihuahua cheese, you’ll quickly reconsider Mexican standards like enchiladas and chicken taquitos. You get fresh, crisp carrots and juicy jicama with ranch dressing for starters-a refreshing end-run around chip fatigue. And fatigue is exactly what you don’t want because of entrées like the Mayan plate-cubed bits of fish, oysters, octopus and shrimp in a backdrop of spicy, tomato-broccoli stock sauce. The sea bass fillet, topped with pibil sauce and cooked in a leaf of corn, was firm and flavorful. The accompanying spinach, with rich, smoky flavors, was a can’t-get-enough-of sider. Which is OK because Chihuahua’s owner Jose Luis Gutierres says you can have as much as you want of anything on the menu. While adequate, the service was annoyingly uneven. 3232 McKinney Ave.. 214-969-9300. Moderate to expensive.



Dos Charros. This is food for people who break into a sweat at the sight of a habanero chile or those who don’t automatically reach for the Tabasco when they order a Bloody Mary or guacamole. The extensive menu has plenty of seafood choices and healthful options added to the list of traditional favorites. 108 University Village Shopping Center. Belt Line and Piano roads, 972-783-7671. Inexpensive.



El Norte. The decor varies from the authentic look of specials painted directly on the walls to cheesy plastic flamingos in the flower boxes, but some solidly good food comes out of the kitchen. Great starters include the white queso sauce and chips or the jalapeno poppers. The restaurant serves terrific roasted chicken that can be ordered as a dinner or in Mexican specialties like enchiladas. This is a great family spot with a reasonable all-you-can-eat special. 2205 W. Parker Rd.. Piano. 972-596-6783. inexpensive.



Escondido’s. The rickety surroundings exude genuine “dump” appeal, which simply means that the food should be as good as the place is bad. And for the most part, it is. Service, however, was lacking speed and thoughtful-ness, marring an otherwise fine fix of better-than-average Tex-Mex. 2210 Butler St., 214-634-2056. Inexpensive.



Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Consistently touted as Dallas’ best interior Mexican restaurant, Javier’s lives up to its own high standards. While you shouldn’t expect the menu to change very often, after a few trips you’ll be glad it doesn’t. The tomatillo sauce served with the fresh chips is the best around-period-and coaxes many to forego the appetizers. Entrées range from excellent seafood dishes to tender cabrito, though some regulars never stray from the legendary filet durango. Most meals are complimented by seasoned rice and retried black beans that redefine that experience. A spacious and elegant cigar bar has been added in the rear; if you prefer not to wait, make reservations. 4912 Cole Ave., 214-521-4211. Moderate.



La Calle Doce. Those who don’t like seafood will appreciate more traditional Mexican offerings, such as spinach enchiladas carefully covered with green sauce. And La Cal le Doce’s celebrated hot sauce remains a winner. 415 W. 12th St., 214-941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.



Las Cazuelas. This tiny East Dallas jewel serves up marvelous food, starting with the killer salsa that’s made with fresh cilantro, onion and tomato essences. Try the Mexican enchilada, its tortilla dipped in a ruddy chile wash, wrapped around onion-studded meat filling and topped with grated cheese. On Mondays, the special caldo de res. chunky with beef and vegetables, is fabulous as is the knock-your-socks-off chile relleno. 4933 Columbia Ave., 214-827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Valent Ina. If you like authentic Mexican food, you’ll appreciate this menu. The polio en mole poblano tops a chicken breast with a sensuous sauce thai includes 54 types of chilies. spices and a touch of chocolate, resulting in a richly layered smoky-sweet flavor. Try a reverse taco-juli-enned vegetables, crisp shreds of tortillas and pomegran-ite seeds wrapped in a lettuce leaf and eaten taco-style. The tasty peanut cilantro dressing adds a Thai touch and great flavor. The meals also include some absolutely dismal rolls and tasteless whipped herbed butter, and homemade blue corn tortillas with a duo of colorful sauces. But put down that fascinating menu when it’s time for dessert and ask for the flan. 14866 Montfort Dr., 972-72&O202. Moderate.

D REVISITS Mario’s Chlqulta. Regulars of the Travis Walk location lamented its closing, but can be comforted by the fact that one Mario’s Chiquita still stands in Piano. It may be a terribly long drive, but anyone who has tasted any one of Mario’s unbeatable Tex-Mex combination plates will make the trip. In all its years, the food has remained reliably delicious-attention to detail in food execution is unsurpassed. Tex-Mex plates brimming with enchiladas and tacos satisfy even the pickiest of diners as well as more traditional Mexican fare such as carne asada, an array of seafood dishes and delicious chile rel-lenos. Service, as always, is friendly and patient. And a scoop of cinnamon ice cream is the best way to end your meal. 221 W. Parker Rd.. 972-423-2977. Inexpensive to moderate.

Martin’s Cocina. The kitchen here does magic things with seafood (shrimp especially) and offers a listing of entrees that weigh in at less than 1,000 calories each, including the four chiles rellenos. But there’s no skimping here-the most basic combination plate starts with a lettuce-topped chalupa, its toasty tortilla thickly spread with guacamole. The platter that follows holds a massive enchilada, a queso-bathed cheese taco and an overstuffed meat taco as greaseless as that crunchy marvel gets. Equally wonderful rice and beans can be ordered as side dishes. The dynamite pico de gallo is serra no-spiked. 7726 Ferguson Rd., 214-319-8834. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mattito’s. Don’t miss the chile relleno, topped with the usual sauce, cheese and sour cream, but also with chopped pecans for crunch and raisins for sweetness. The fajitas and tacos are staidard fare: save your calories for the homemade flan and sopaipillas instead. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-8181. Inexpensive.

Mart’s Rancho Martinez. Three styles of chicken-fried steak, and outstanding grilled |not fried) flautas. Has moved around the corner; now closer to the Lakewood Theater. 6332 La Vista Dr., 214-823-5517. Inexpensive.

Monica’s Aca Y Alla. This place has been around long enough to be a tradition in these days of restaurants that open and close-especially in Deep Ellum. An extremely ambitious menu offers some intriguing Southwestern-inspired options as well as more standard Tex-Mex, but it offers so many options it borders on being too confusing. The same confusion shows up in single dishes as well, such as an appetizer of grilled portobello mushrooms with sausage in garlic butter sauce with pecans and little pieces of grilled bread. More successful was grilled shrimp with chipotle-cream sauce and an accompanying salad of Asian greens and rice noodles. The funky minimalist atmosphere and furnishings of abstract design are warmed by the red walls and smooth concrete floor. And there’s always a chance you might get a glimpse of Monica, famous primarily for having once been Eduardo. 2914 Main St., 214-748-7140. Moderate.

Monterrey. The setting’s gardenlike, the service is sweetly attentive and the food in this family-run Lakewood establishment is fresh, fresh, fresh. An enchilada plate holds two generous wraps of cheese or beef, richly seasoned and sauced, plus outstanding rice and refries. A tamale comes as a tender masa pillow plumped with lean pork under a hearty chili sauce. A special treat is the house ceviche, a heady marinade of white fish in an infusion of lemon, onions, garlic and cilantro. 1611 Greenville Ave., 214-821-2026. Inexpensive.

Nuevo Leon. If you start with the fajita nachos here, you won’t have room for lunch or dinner. Dig into the warm chips and warmer salsa and then get ready to gorge. Tender chicken enchiladas with verde sauce and beef enchiladas with chilorio are fresh and not at all greasy; the taco macho is 10 Inches of tender flour tortilla stuffed with cheese, avocado and your choice of chicken, beef or pork. 12895 Josey Lane at Valley View Rd.. 972-488-1984. Inexpensive.



Piano Tortilla Factory. If you live in Piano, then this little place should be on the top of your list for a quick bite, takeout or delivery. In fact, the retried beans alone ought to be enough to keep you coming back. On our visit we devoured cheese enchiladas with chile con carne sauce and a chile relleno loaded with tasty beef and cheese, then smothered with green peppers, onions and more cheese. That sucker was hot. though, so keep the iced tea handy. Fresh homemade tortillas (corn and flour) also accompanied our order, so there was no hope for any room for dessert. PlanoTortilla Factory’s appeal doesn’t end with the food-the friendly owner was quick to strike up a conversation and make us feel welcome. Low prices are a bonus, too. 1009 E, 18th St., Piano, 972-423-6980. Inexpensive.



Rodolfo’s. Start with the home-fried chips, huge half-tortilla rounds served with a full-bodied salsa. Then try the Big Tex Mex dinner or the Number 0 (yes, they start numbering at zero). The Big Tex Mex offers a cheese enchilada, a tamale with chili sauce, a meat taco, a soft cheese taco, rice, beans and half of a praline for dessert. The taco and enchilada were both silky, the beans creamy and the tamale married nongreasy meat and a just-on-the-edge-of-crumbly shell. The star on the Number 0 plate is the Idaho enchiladas made of, yes. mashed potatoes, pleasantly spiced and available with a choice of seven different sauces. 2002 S. Edgefield Ave,, 214-942-1211. Inexpensive.



Tuplnamba. Nothing changes at Tupinamba. And, boy, are we glad. Those of us who have followed Tupy’ s for 30-some-odd years to its several locations (now, fourth) have come to depend on it for massive quantities of delicious food in a friendly, attentive atmosphere. The nachos; never heavy or soggy, the ratio of beans to cheese, perfect. The queso: creamy but never cloying. Chicken-stuffed jalapenos: hotter than hell, as they should be. And the classic Tupy Special-ribeye, enchilada, cheese nachos, borracho beans and guacamole. We finished with cinnamon-dusted sopaipillas and waddled out the door, once again, stuffed. We will return for the champagne Sunday brunch. 12270 Inwood Rd.. 972-991-8148. Inexpensive to moderate.



Middle Eastern

Cafe Izmir. A unique dining experience: Diners choose a vegetarian or a meat-based meal rather than ordering from a menu. And then a parade of delightful food appears. The lemon-zested tabbouleh is terrific; the hummus silken. The Mediterranean cole slaw and a Russian chicken salad, however, were bland. But with these came excellent pita quarters for dipping or stuffing with grilled kabob tubes of ground beef and marinated chicken. Lamb wore its own wrap of a tortilla-like crepe, with piquant minced green peppers. Cubed cucumber and tomato in temon-olive oil dressing was a cooling touch; battered saffron rice was fine; and an enormous platter of grilled eggplant, squash and ripe tomato slices brought a bright counterpoint of flavors to the table. A scarce Greek red wine called Boutari Maossa is a happy find here, and the sweet Turkish coffee in fragile cups was as irresistible as the desserts. 3711 Greenville Ave., 214-826-7788. Moderate.



Hedary’s. George Hedary is back with a comfortable clone of the Fort Worth original, menu and all. in Far North Dallas. But the question is: Can one Lebanese oven produce enough of the family’s famed pita rounds to satisfy us all? To dip pieces of it into a dish of labni, Hedary’s garlicky yogurt cheese, is to find bliss. But that’s only the beginning. Order the menu’s maza appetizer, and you’ll get a dozen sampler starters on tiny plates. Be warned: The maza array alone might be all two people can eat, but the entrées are as prodigal. Mquiniq, for example, fills a huge plate with plump ovals of lebanese pork sausage, squeezed with lemon before serving. Dessert-wise, a fragile pastry filled with milk custard and topped with pistachios barely edged out rose water-seen ted rice pudding. And tiny cups of Lebanese coffee kept us awake on the drive home. 7915 Belt Line Rd.. 972-233-1080. Moderate.



Moroccan

Marrakesh. Just what is Moroccan cuisine, and what is it doing in Dallas? It is lamb and couscous and fresh vegetables spiced with mysterious combinations of nutmeg, paprika and cumin-it is wonderful. And the Moroccan Feast-a sample of almost everything on the menu-is a bargain at $25.95 per person. Vibrant Middle-Eastern music had us tapping the table and bobbing our heads; a veiled belly dancer in a purple bra gyrated and finger-cymbaled her way around the room. We halfiexpected to pass Lawrence of Arabia on our way to a pillowed banquette. 5207 Lovers Ln,. 214-357-4104. Moderate.

Natural/Health

Dream Cafe. This Quadrangle eatery’s pastoral-in-city setting seems particularly appropriate for the Dream Cafe’s menu of nightly pasta and chicken specials-on our visit, one with the tongue-twisting name of chicken with feta-cala-mata olive relish-salads and sandwiches. You can’t go wrong ordering corn cakes, with a hot, peanut dipping sauce and grilled shrimp, or the vegetable enchiladas of spinach and wild mushrooms with ancho sauce and melted Jack cheese. However, a grilled chicken breast sandwich came on a regrettably dry sourdough bun. The Dream Cafe’s famed breakfast menu remains an intriguing cross-solid egg dishes to entice the power-breakfast crowd and gra-nola for those who want to start the day on a more spiritual, healthful note. The Quadrangle, 2800Routh St., 214-954-0486. Inexpensive.

Eureka! 4011 Villanova Dr., 214-369-7767. Inexpensive.

New American

Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-flung, revolving restaurant, long marked by mediocre food that failed to live up to the view, appears to be finding its wings at last. Huge, meaty, seared sea scallops, pearly-white within, were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes and earthy shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a roasted shallot vinaigrette. Sau-teed salmon was less memorable only because its sea soning was too timid and its bed of rice totally tasteless: flavor came from the grilled Granny Smith apple slices and applejack sauce that were both blander than expected. Desserts were one up-a tongue-tingling Key lime pie, really terrific-and one down-warm peach-walnut cobbler, made with canned peaches, sans walnuts as far as we could tell, and far too sweet. And the view? How blase do we have to be before seeing the city do a slow 360-degree pirouette below us fails to be enchanting? Reunion Tower. 300 Reunion Blvd., 214-651-1234. Expensive.

Anzu. The uncluttered feng shut decor induces relaxed pleasure, from granite-hued tabletops and intimate booth enclosures to the witty flock of bright-colored origami birds that flutter from the ceiling. Service supports the mood, too. with knowledgeable dish descriptions and friendly attention to small needs. Each dish on the menu is a compelling example of East-meets-West culinary compatibility. One entree, mustard-crusted rack of lamb-five baby riblets- on white beans with tomato and garlic, partnered with rosemary-scented potatoes, was classically American; another, sake-marinated black cod broiled to succulence and served on infant greens with grapefruit sections and Chinese black vinegar alongside ginger-snapped pickled beets, was as eloquently Asian. And a dessert of coconut sorbet with ripe, fresh berries, pineapple and kiwi on raspberry and mango sauces brought both worlds together. 4620 McKinney Ave.. 214-526-7398. Moderate.

Beau Nash. After vainly seeking gustatory vibes in a tersely written bill of fare, we had to look to the food’s execution for enougn excitement to justify some of the prices. We found it in aportobellotart, delectably grilled with crun-chy fennel cubes and rich juices in a buttery crust; and in the crisp-edged perfection of moist-hearted Atlantic salmon. We found it lacking in a carefully composed salad of Belgian endive and mache leaves-several of the latter had gone unforgivably dry and yellow. What we did appreciate was our waiter’s deleting charges for an entree of angel hair pasta that didn’t quite mask the fishy flavor of crab-meat that overshadowed the mild basil pesto sauce. Service throughout, in fact, was immaculate and uncommonly thoughtful enough to give us hope that this was just a below-par food evening. Hotel Crescent Court. 2215 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-3240. Moderate to expensive.

City Cafe. Basic California-style food comes graced with a Cajun touch here, a hint of the Southwest there. Seafood dishes make the best choices, whether a juicy grilled escc-lar or a seared-salmon salad. City Cafe also renders the classics well, like an herb-sprinkled omelet or a club sandwich packed with turkey, tomatoes and bacon. The menu changes every two weeks, but a few customer favorites, like the succulent tomato soup, appear regularly. Save room for homemade dessert. Also check out the award-winning wine list and the nice choice of after-dinner drinks. 5757 W. Lovers Ln.. 214-351-2233. Moderate.

Dakota’s. Start with an appetizer sampler or warm homemade breads and the addictive, fried, cayenne-spiked onion shreds as you peruse the menu, which includes plenty of items marked as “lighter fare.” Choices from the wood-burning grill never disappoint, but a recent daily special was especially intriguing-colorfully striped, smoked moz-zarella ravioli showered with sweet crab and sauteed bell peppers with a light, garlicky sauce to tie all the elements together. Bargain-seekers will love the $15.95. threecourse “twilight menu” offered daily, with choices that might include a first course of venison sausage quesadil-las followed by roasted salmon and chocolate pecan pie. 600 N. Akard St., 214-740-4001. Moderate.



Huntington’s. This is one of the best places in Dallas for a reasonably priced, reliabty good meal. Lobster bisque smoothly and richly delivers the very essence of lobster, best enjoyed as you wolf down the lightly crusty rolls slathered with garlic-studded whipped butter. Don’t miss the meaty crab cakes (offered as an appetizer or entrée), and end your meal with a crusty crème brulée. Watch out for the tame salad dressings, though. Westin Gaileria, 13440 Dallas Pkwy.. 972-851-2882. Moderate to expensive.



Landmark Restaurant. A day’s-special starter, on our visit, topped a crisp-edged potato pancake with a single, huge, seared sea scallop and zipped with caviar-caper rémoulade. Another special sandwiched a grilled shiitake mushroom between Roma tomato halves, crumb-coated and fried, on baby greens dressed with basil-balsamic vinaigrette. Both were excellent, as was a smoky tomato soup dolloped with pale green basil cream-adorned by a flash-fried basil leaf. An entrée of charred rare ani tuna was stellar stuff indeed, the thick, meaty cut crisp-seared on the outside, its heart rosy-dark and tender; its accompanying warm salad nicoise was studded with pressed kalamata olives that provided spirited accent to the gentle smoothness of the dressing, a vintage balsamic vinegar and saffron aioli. 3015 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-521-5151. Moderate to expensive.



Laurel’s. Closed June through September for renovation. Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr., 972-385-3000. Expensive.



The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Chef Dean Fearing’s cuisine has been polished over the years so that the early brash-ness has evolved into a sophistication and balance that justify his international recognition. Take two starters: A mammoth, orange-caramelized sea scallop partnered flash-seared foie gras on a duck confit crêpe with blackened turnip slices and gingered currant sauce. Risotto perfumed with Oregon truffles offered gentle counterpoint to pesto-glazed shrimp with tomato essence and grilled zucchini salad. A request to split an entrée was honored, and the ranch-reared antelope proved adequate for two, a substantial cut, rare and honey-glazed on a hearty posole stew gilded with roasted yellow tomato, punctuated with barbecued venison fajitas. Hang the cost. Go there. Do that. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214-559-2100. Expensive.



Nana Grill. The new kitchen king of this elegant room-with-a-view is Ron Rosenbaum (former banquet chef at The Mansion! and his new menu broadens Nana’s focus from Southwestern to Regional American. We found the transition mostly hard to fault: Carolina she-crab soup held a wealth of supple flavor: crisped veal sweetbreads and por-tobello mushroom, cooked en brochette, were delectably paired. A wood-grilled pizza involving foie gras, bacon and Gorgonzola cheese was a disaster, but entrées were flawless-pork tenderloin sparked with cilantro and warm chipotle pepper salsa and peanut-crusted rack of lamb chops. Service, of course, was supremely suave and caring, the accoutrements defined luxe yet again, and the ambience was as comfortably refined as always in this upscale establishment. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel Tower, 2201 Stemmons Fwy., 214-761-7479, Expensive,



Natchez. 2810 N. Henderson Ave., 214-821-4552. Inexpensive to moderate.

D REVISITS NorthSouth. Great gimmick. Not-so-great food. Order an item prepared “North” (low fat version) or “South” (the real thing). If you must go, and plenty of people do, go “South” and if you are watching what you eat. eat half of the real thing. Chicken fried steak is not meant to be breaded with cracker crumbs and baked. Fitness Guru/owner Larry North should stick with what he does best: motivating us to work out after we’ve gone South on junk food. 2800 Routh St., 214-849-0000, Moderate.



Tire Riviera. We knew the moment an airy avocado cream hors d’ouevre passed our lips that we were doomed, once again, to a near-flawless (and therefore difficult to describe without sounding, well, gusfty) dining experience. Each dish seemed to outdo another-yellow-fin tuna, marinated and grilled with apple-smoked bacon, hardly needed its accompaniment of lobster-caviar rémoulade; a pan-seared cut of salmon on fennel-seasoned white beans was crowned with a waffle of crisp phyllo layers. Food credits here mostly belong to Chef de Cuisine Michael Weinstein, one assumes, with input from David Holben, now executive chef at sibling restaurants Mediterraneo and Toscana. 7709 Inwood Rd., 214-351-0094. Expensive.



Rooster. David Burdette-former chef at The Grape-has drawn inspiration from vittles from the old South. He dubs this action “new American Southern cuisine,” which is actually a disciplined orchestration of traditional influences and imaginative diversions coupled with a deftly assembled wine list. The menu moves from fried green tomatoes (listiess and bland) with Dallas mozzarella, to Coca Cola-marinated venison loin to roasted double breast of chicken with Pontchartrain crab-meat stuffing. Rooster will continually emphasize seasonal game on its menu, so we sampled the braised wild pheasant, which-settled in a bowl of dark, rich hunters sauce with Southern Comfort-glazed baby onions, cracklings (pork fat) and shiitake mushrooms-was moist, sweet, chewy and very hearty. While the service was adequate, it lacked the pleasant, sincere attentiveness this Southern setting demands. Plus, our servers’ knowledge of the menu was jittery at best. Oak Grove and Lemmon avenues, 214-521-1234. Moderate to expensive.



Seventeen Seventeen. At the Dallas Museum of Art’s new restaurant, the decor and food are both simply lovely. On a brunch visit, the tomato-Pernod broth was a muted masterpiece, and a small comino-rubbed, baby lamb T-bone on musky black-chile mole sauce was splendid. On the breakfast side, a honey-granola waffle wore a toss of pecans beside a caramelized, oatmeal-crusted, tried banana on vanilla bean syrup, and smoky-flavored wild boar sausage partnered an omelet stuffed with charred bell pepper confetti and white Cheddar cheese. The most memorable desserts were a pink-and-white layered mousse cake with fresh raspberries and a trio of house brulées-mango-lime, raspberry-chocolate, orange with vanilla cream. 1717 N. Harwood St., 214-880-0158. Moderate to expensive.



Sevy’s. Wood floors, stone walls and earthy colors make a cozy backdrop for watching all the beautiful people. The menu is standard fias h-an d-d ash Dallas-monied fare: simply presented grilled meats, pasta and seafood with nice touches. A chopped salad, ordered to share, arrived split on two chilled plates, each garnished as a full order. A hickory-scented beef tenderloin filet knocked a vegetarian off the wagon. Stellar service throughout the meal was topped off by having our car delivered while we paid the reasonable bill. 8201 Preston Rd.. 214-265-SEVY. Moderate.



Seafood

Cafe Pacific. Cafe Pacific continues to delight as one of Dallas’ most reliable luncheon and dinner restaurants. This is the place to take an old friend for a reunion or a business associate to discuss the next deal. Paintings of the 19th-century Italian countryside grace the walls, fresh flowers fill large vases and the lighting is soft. Menu favorites like caiamari, clam chowder. Caesar salad, salmon and red snapper are suberbly prepared and presented by experienced waitstaff. Daily specials are inventive and delicious. Very nice wines by the glass are available, complementing a diverse wine list. Specialty of the bar is Dallas’ best Ramos gin fizz-a must for brunch diners. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston Road and Mockingbird Lane, 214-526-1170. Moderate to expensive.



Daddy Jack’s. This tiny restaurant with its quaint red-and-white checked tablecloths and casual, cozy atmosphere is perfect for a date or for just breezing in after a day at the lake. But forget about the atmosphere. What we’re really talking about is fantastic seafood. Indecision plagued us in the beginning; We couldn’t decide between a New England-style crab cake or a lobster-and-potato cake, so we ordered both and then had an even harder time deciding which was better. As for the main course, we were disappointed to hear they were out of soft-shell crab, but our consolation was the tilapia daily special topped with delectable shrimp and a fabulous cream sacue. Also worth noting are the relaxed, efficient service and fair prices: The experience was worth every penny. And although we left Daddy Jack’s almost painfully full, we’re already making plans to return. 1916 Greenville Ave.. 214-82&4910. Moderate.



Daddy Jack’s Wood Grill. This Jack Chaplin restaurant offers lively service and food that manage to combine homey familiarity with twists of near-elegance. For example, a grilled red snapper topped with shrimp and lobster brandy could grace a tonier table, but here it’s served with an ear of corn. Ditto on the beef filet grilled with apple bacon and crowned with Roquefort butter and roasted walnuts. The Lobster Fra Diavolo is a heaping challenge of lobster, mussels, clams and shrimp. For lunch, try the memorable tomato and cr3b gazpacho or the tuna anointed with fresh mango and avocado. The one true disappointment was the chocolate mousse that was grainy, rock-hard and almost inedible. However, the smooth Key lime pie was refreshing. 2723 Elm St.. 214-653-3949. Moderate.



FIsh.This elegant downtown dining spot doesn’t seem too inviting at first glance, but inside it is airy and elegant. And you can peruse the menu while sipping on the restaurant’s signature cocktail: Veuve Clicquot champagne. Fish’s many temptations include the acclaimed Green Sour)-a shallow bowl piled high with shells, legs and tails protruding recklessly from a broth. But then there Is the sea bass: It was so fresh we glanced outside to make sure we weren’t seaside. A warm, chocolate-laden bread pudding was so good, we were looking around m disbelief. We had died and gone to Fish-and we don’t mean in the Trinity River. 302 S. Houston St.. 214-747-FISH, Late menu. 10 p.m.-2 a.m. nightly. Moderate to expensive.

Lefty’s. Although the menu is small. Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t like seafood. Soups come in thick, white mugs; a disk of a cracker covers the top to keep the steam in. Choose the clam chowder and steer away from the metallic-tasting lobster bisque. Of the appetizers, the smoked salmon with bagel chips or the steamed clams would make a nice meal. So would the crisp house salad, paired with a crab cake and dilled tartar sauce. Baked shrimp, stuffed with baby shrimp, crab and cracker crumbs, are served perched in a wickedly good sauce. The service gets mixed marks, but the wine list is promising. One false note: The sauce on a daily special of seafood diablo lacked spiciness. though the plate was heaped with clams, lobster, mussets and shrimp. One big bargain; the 1-pound lobster with baked potato and corn for $10.95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-774-9518. Moderate.

Lombardi Mare. Don’t be put off by the nondescript exterior, because the interior will take your breath away. Lighting fixtures designed to appear like a school of fish swim across the ceiling. This place is a seafood lovers paradise. We feasted on five types of farm-fresh oysters, shrimp cocktail, steamed mussels, grilled trout and lobster-and weren’t dissapointed with one bite. Continuing our gluttonous ways, we devoured a divine Grand Marnier souffle. 5100 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 972-503-1233. Moderate to expensive.

Mainstream Fish House. Mainstream will reel you in, just like it has such notables as Ross Perot and Roger Stau-bach-from the properly seasoned chowder studded with juicy clams to the mouth puckering Key lime tart sweet ened by a dab of whipped cream and a mound of berries. Your best choice in between those two winners? The daily specials. This restaurant, a hands-on operation of owner Kelly Hagen and family, knows its fish, as does every emptoyee, so take their recommendations and you can’t go wrong with specials. Mainstream pays attention to every detail-it serves Empire Bakery’s incomparable bread and killer potato cakes. Excellent food, low prices and a thoroughly casual atmosphere (with decent choices of wine and beer) keep this homey little place packed for both lunch and dinner. Preston Forest Shopping Center, 11661 Preston Rd., Ste. 153, 214-739-3474. Moderate.

Newport’s. It’s rare that a restaurant can skillfully anticipate needs and smoothly sprint the extra mile to meet them. But Newport’s offers service of this caliber, along with some of the freshest seafood you’ll find in land-locked North Texas. Choose from mesquite-grilled fish, seared, blackened or fried seafood, and sauteed chicken. Newport’s is housed in the old Dallas Brewery and Bottling works and its three-tiered dining room actually holds a huge, open Artesian well that once fed the pre-Prohibition brewing operation. With a wine list that is adequate, if unimaginative, Newport’s offers only a handful of craft brews-sacrilege considering Newport’s digs. (New evening hours) 703 McKmney Ave.. 214-954-0220. Moderate.

Picardys Shrimp Shop. Coconut tempura shrimp were tender, juicy and pleasantly sweet and a side of honey-sour sauce added a potent bite. The rice pilaf. slightly undercooked and bland, was a bit of a damp blanket on the whole presentation. Grilled shrimp nachos, with shrimp, black beans, white cheese and salsa, were light and chewy with wonderfully balanced flavors. Other intriguing offerings that went untried were the shrimp and cheddar grits, fried shrimp loaf and grilled shrimp tacos. Picardys’ wine offerings are mostly ho-hum standards save for a couple of exciting selections, but the beer list was fairly unimaginative. For dessert, the house made peach cobbler and scoop of Haagen-Dazs was satisfyingly chewy, with a swift nutmeg finish. Picardys’ kid-friendly atmosphere is a plus; crayons, a coloring placemat, toys and a bright tray make the experience almost effortless. 6800 Snider Plaza. 214-373-4099. Inexpensive to moderate.

S&D Oyster Company. Serving fresh food for years. S&D has become a mainstay of quality. The simple atmosphere complements the simple fare: oysters, shrimp, gumbo and fish. Oysters, its speciality, should definitely be sampled. Make your own tartar sauce or let your experienced waiter mix together the perfect blend of ingredients right at your table. For lunch, try an oyster or shrimp loaf sandwich. For heartier meals, partake of broiled fish; red snapper, trout or flounder, depending on what is available fresh. 2701 McKmney Ave.. 214-880-0111. Moderate.

Sea Grill. Asian accents are subtly woven into this seafood-intense menu, where every bite surprises-a touch of lemon grass in the iced tea, a splash of sake enlivening a black bean sauce. Don’t even bother with the menu if a lobster sandwich is one of the daily specials; just order it quickly before they run out. Hunks of sweet lobster meat tossed with a lemon/Dijon mayo make this open-faced sandwich a winner, and it’s served not only with fries, caraway seed-flecked slaw and slices of mango, but also with the good house salad. The setting may be strip mail-pedestrian, but the food, right down to the homemade desserts, transcends it. The orange cheesecake, as delicate as a mousse, ends a meal on a light but flavor-intense note. Sea Grill offers a wine list that does justice to its food (although the by-the-glass prices are steep). 2205 N. Centrai Expwy., Ste. 180, Piano, 972-509-5542. Moderate.

Truluck’s Steak & Stone Crab. This striking art-deco eatery designed to look like a posh railroad car is the only spot in Dallas that serves the infamous stone crab seven days a week, year-round. Truluck’s stone crabs come in four sizes-medium, large, jumbo and colossal-and they’re ruinously expensive. Served pre-cracked because of their dense shells, stone crabs taste best when served chilled with hot mustard and drawn butter. But if the surf part of the menu doesn’t lift you into culinary orbit, the turf part surely will. Truluck’s meats (USDA Prime and Certified Angus Beef) are among the best we’ve tasted in Dallas- a 14-ounce ribeye was juicy and melt-in-the-mouth delicious. Taking the crusher-claw hugeness theme to the end, desserts are massive: The carrot cake, moist and hearty, is about the size of a cinder block. Truluck’s showcases an attentiveness to detail and skillful service-even if it demands you crush your piggy bank before savoring those claws. 50011 Belt Line Rd.. Addison, 972-503-3079. Moderate to expensive.



Southwestern

Flying Burro. Bringing his own style of New Mexicc-Mex to Dallas, owner Scott Cain has a neat sense of the cuisine’s essential basics. To Texas tongues, the most alien dish on the menu will probably be Winnie’s Kilter Queso, a dark, spicy, burn-the-baby mélange of peppers. The fried jala-pehos-uncommonly crisp and pickled, are filled with vinegary chicken and cheese, all hot as hell. The Burro’s sauces, in red or green, are gentler on the tongue and add the right spice to the chicken and New Mexican enchiladas. Be wary, however, of the posole. which had been overcooked and oversalted when we visited. The poundedchick-en breast also had been baked too long. 2831 Greenville Ave., 214-827-2112. Inexpensive.

Sam’s Cafe. Pots of soft, poppyseed-studded breadsticks stand ready to dip into their accompanying cream cheese/salsa mixture. Caesars take a Southwestern spin with spicy fried strips of tortillas replacing the croutons, while the dressing remains perkily authentic. The King Ranch Casserole, a palate-pleasing mixture of chicken, corn tortillas, roasted peppers, cheeses and onions, makes an excellent take-out dish for a dinner the whole family will love. Quesadillas, all five varieties, score high marks, although the ingredients need to be spread out more evenly. Regulars like the eight inventive pastas, and they also know that the poblano chicken chowder, with its sneaky little burn, is a must-order. Sam’s offers a good-sized bar, with a house specialty called the “Grand Canyon”-a 32-ounce margarita. In the Preston Center Shopping Center. 8411 Preston Rd.. Ste. 112. 214-739-2288. Moderate.

Star Canyon. Superchef Stephan Pyles has a gift for slipping happy little surprises into even the most mundane-sounding dishes. A grilled quail was not only halved but boned on a first-course plate mounded with arugula that coyly concealed poached pear slices and zip-spiked Cajun pecans. Coriander-cured venison lived up to its legendary reputation, grilled rare and sliced into rosy petals complemented by whipped yam and an assertive dried fruit empanada. Even as simple a dessert as bread pudding departs from the commonplace here. Service was friendly and fast, as always. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave.. 214-520-7827. Moderate to expensive.

Y.O. Ranch. This food may be dubbed “early Texas cooking.” but we doubt many Old West ranch cooks whipped up this sophisticated a menu, starting with the seafood corn cake, a vast flapjack concealing nuggets of crab, shrimp, oysters and corn kernels. Other appetizers are as wonderful; the frog legs were grilled to flawless succulence on wild rice with vegetable ribbons, and the wild boar sausage was served on a sea of molten cheese. Entrees range from basic steaks (we enjoyed a huge, perfect ribeye) to turkey, catfish, shrimp and the Muy Grande Tex Mex Platter. On the side, we found fresh grilled spinach extraordinarily fine and beautifully seasoned. At lunch, when everything on the menu but the fajitas are a reasonable $5.50, enjoy a country-fried steak that can be prepared in four different styles or one of the Tex-Mex specialties, like Matt’s famed chile relleno. Desserts run the gamut from a wonderful pecan pie to a wretched, dense-as-lead lemon cake. 702 Ross Ave., 214-744-3287. Inexpensive to moderate.



Spanish

Cafe Madrid. Apart from the house bread, which is totally undistinguished, every bite we sampled here was delightful. Besides the two dozen or so tapas always available, a daily changing blackboard lists as many more, including everything from potato ometet to crisp-fried baby smelt, from wine-poached rabbit to blood sausage-and that last is a near-religious experience, the dark, crisp-shinned sausage stuffed with rice and onion, filled with rich, meaty flavor, presented in double-bite-size morsels on herb-oiled cushions of bread. Try it with authentic Spanish manchego cheese, thin-sliced in crumbly mellow triangles, and stalks of white asparagus dressed with tomato-, onion-and green pepper-studded vinaigrette. If it’s a more conventional meal you’re after, a three-course dinner is offered nightly-cream of leek soup, veal stew and a cream-filled liqueur cake on our visit, paella on Friday and Saturday evenings. 4501 Travis St.. 214-528-1731. Moderate.

La Tasca Espanola. So many tapas, so little time. You can make a meal by choosing two or three from the list of 22- and do it for under $20. Tortilla Espanola, a thick, pie-shaped omelet, was a standout. Entrées include exceptional Paella Vatenciana-a lovely presentation of mussels, clams, shrimp, chicken and calamari with saffron rice and peas. Home of the friendliest staff in Dallas, this place is trying hard and succeeding. 4131 Lomo Alto Dr.. 214-599-9563. Moderate.



Steakhouses

Bob’s Steak & Chop House. In addition to a lusty carnivorous appetite, be sure to bring your night-vision goggles to this chop house to keep from bruising your nose on the dark wood paneling or from slipping on the green carpeting. At least we think it’s green; it’s hard to tell because Bob’s decor reflects a vampirish fear of illumination. Still, this place dazzles with juicy, tasty cuts of meat-coupled with veggie and potato-and pleasant, attentive service, while its pricey wine list invokes ghoulish terror. Our filet, ordered medium, was many shades redder than our New York strip, ordered medium rare. Maybe they need to punch up the lumens in the kitchen, too. 4300 Lemmon Ave., 214-528-9446. Moderate to expensive.

Chamberlain’s Steak and Chop House. A for-two combo appetizer’s shared crabcake and brace of crunch-battered shrimp were definitive enough, but the housemade Worcestershire sauce that spiked portobello mushrooms redefined that condiment with stellar authority. Prime rib and a trimmed to-lean ribeye were robustly rare and confi dently complemented with garlic mashed potatoes. Sides of com kernels hand-cut off the cob and early-season asparagus delivered fresh texture and flavor; warm bread pudding cupped a spill of caramel that was just assertive enough to give the near-clichê dessert special character. Figure in service that was, if not clairvoyant, almost uncannily empathetic, and you’ll have some grasp of the comfortable ambience that keeps chef/proprietor Richard Chamberlain’s cigar-friendly Addison outpost filled even on weekday evenings. 5330 Belt Line Rd? Addison. 972-934-2467. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Now in its North Dallasdigs for more than four years, Del Frisco’s still serves up one mean slab ’o’ meat. Our filets were virtually perfect, fashioned from cuts of meat void of grisle and thick as couch cushions. Top-shelf appetizers included an aggressively tangy shrimp rémoulade and turtle soup whose only fault was that it didn’t come inunlimited quantities. The wine list is varied and complete, and the butterscotch cheesecake was worth the calories for even the most disciplined dieter. Heck, we even thought the vegetables were great. The front dining room gets smokey and regrettably loud when it’s crowded, so wait for a table elsewhere if that’s a problem. Not a joint for the faint of pock-etbook, but worth serious consideration when you’re in a mood to blow it out red-meat style. 5251 Spring valley Rd.. 972-490-9000. Expensive.

Klrby s Steak house. Well, wow, Toto, this sure doesn’t look like Lower Greenville. Unlike the neat but not-gaudy in-town reincarnation of the venerated 1950s original, this vast place has Piano-style prosperity written all over it-all upscale splendor (clubby dark woods and sculptural glass) with a midscale attitude (confidently casual service and ambience). The menu’s the same, though-mostly steaks, with the usual few seafood and fowl entrées, plus starters and a list of à la carte sides that outshone pricier places or? our visit. Everything we tried was outstanding: ribeye steak was a royal 14 ounces of rare, tendon free perfec tion au naturel. Crisp-skinned coins of fried okra were too fine to dip in the garlicky pink creamy house dressing that accompanied them, and Susie’s mashed potatoes-spiked with cream cheese and sour cream-were sublime. Word has it the house crème brulée is star-quality, but who has room for dessert after all this carnivorous indulgence? Not us-our apologies. 3408 Preston Rd., 972-867-2122: 3525 Greenville Ave., 214-821-2122. Moderate to expensive.



Morton’s of Chicago. Understatement reigns here, from dark wood to etched glass, starched white linens and muted Sinatra, and there are more than 30 martini varieties. And, of course, there are steaks-big. beautiful steaks. 501 Elm St.. 214-741-2277. Expensive.



D REVISITS The Paim. General manager AI Biernat has built this steak and lobster imort from New York into the downtown power lunch spot. Gentlemanly bonhomie reigns here, from the greeting at the door to the professional cast of waiters and waitresses. Come to see and be seen, and maybe even to cut a deal, but don’t come for the food. Over the past several months our samplings have gone from bland to worse. Is the problem the turnover in the kitchen or bad buying at corporate headquarters? Whatever the source, the fact is that the food on the table doesn’t equal The Palm’s competitors-by a long a shot. Our advice: Act quickly. At these prices, no amount of good feeling can substitute for a good meal. 701 Ross Ave., 214-698-0470. Expensive.



Paul’s Porterhouse. Fans of this Restaurant Row mainstay make a compelling argument that Paul’s deserves a prominent spot in your regular redmeat rotation. The menu features an extensive array of steak variations, and our choices were thick, fine cuts of meat-cooked exactly as we had ordered- and complimented by excellent sauces. Unexpected alternatives like ostrich and game complicate your entrée decision, and meals include soup or salad, baked potato, fresh bread and a slab of cheese left for your grazing pleasure as soon as you’re seated. The seemingly nonexistent dress code is an added bonus. Get a reservation, or stand in the cramped reception area waiting for a table vacated by someone who did. Expect this place to grow on you, especially if you’re a taxidermist (trust us, you’ll understand when you get there). 10960 Composite Dr.. 214-357-0279. Expensive.



Randy’s Steakhouse. A meal in this cozy, Victorian home-turn ed-restau rant can make you feel like you’re having dinner at a friend’s home. But your friends have never served steaks like these. Graded prime and cut by hand, these beauties tasted rich and buttery. Filets, New York strips and ribeyes are each offered in two sizes, or opt for the 26-ounce porterhouse. The 10 seafood selections offer plenty of alternate choices, and all meals come with rich, cheesy potatoes au gratin or a baked potato and fresh vegetables. The bread pudding with Jack Daniels sauce is heavenly mainly because of the lush cinnamon icecream that topped it. 7026 Main St., Frisco, 9 7 2-335-3066. Mode rate to expensive.



Ruth’s Chris Steak House. The steaks, served on a platter sizzling with butter, come as either a filet, a ribeye, a New York strip, a porterhouse or a T-bone. The rich marbling of the corn-fed Midwestern beef displays the promise of juiciness to follow. The meaty lamb chops, however, can give the beef a run for the money. Although you have to order side dishes a la carte-including eight types of potatoes-most of the side dishes will serve two. For an appetizer, try the cheesy, crab-stuffed mushroom caps; among salads, go for the Caesar instead of the unexciting Italian version. There is a huge wine list, and for serious grape lovers, the restaurant has a wine room for tastings. 17840 Dallas Pkwy,. 972-250-2244. Expensive.



Stone Trail. 14833 Midway Rd., 972-701-9600. Moderate to expensive.



Thai

Chow Thai. 5290 Belt Line Rd.. Ste. 144. Addison. 972-960-2999. Moderate.



Royal Thai. Accented with small lamps casting delicate pools of light, this is the prettiest of Dallas’ Thai restaurants. That old standby, lemon grass chicken, is skillfully executed, but try less familiar items, too. On a recent visit, one entrée of crab, scallops, fish, shrimp, squid and peppers on curried rice was delightful. If there’s a drawback, it’s in the size ot the portions, which are not large; consider appetizers if you’re really hungry. In Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave., 214-691-3555. Inexpensive to moderate.



Thai-Thai. 1731 Greenville Ave. at Ross, 214-828-9795. Inexpensive to moderate.



Toy’s Cafe. We tried really hard to love this place. Tucked into a tattered strip of Lemmon Avenue between a donut shop and laundromat, this hole in the wall joint had all the elements of a great neighborhood “find.” Seated on uncomfortably high bar stools overlooking the open Kitchen we perused the ambitious menu-a welcome sight tor sore vegetarian eyes in our group. We wanted everything to be as good as it sounded, but our experience was hit or miss. Our Thai iced tea was a hit. the crab with Thai sauce a miss. Our fresh squid salad with Thai hems was fresh and tasty, but overdressed. In fact, if they reduced the amount of sauce on every dish, many of them would be great. If we lived in the neighborhood, we would call in our order “light on the sauce” and take it home. 4422-B Lemmon Ave.. 214-528-7233. Inexpensive.



Tuppee Tong. The Village at Collin Creek. 621 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 247, Piano. 972-509-7979. Inexpensive.



Vietnamese

Saigon Savour. The cuisine here combines Mediterranean and Asian influences, but the San Francisco owners need to realize that Dallas palates are used to piquancy. We also found ourselves wishing for vegetables, which the Vietnamese cooks usually prepare with finesse. 17370 Preston Rd? Ste. 490, 972-380-2766. Moderate.



Tarrant County

Angeluna. This new centerpiece of Sundance Square fea tures an aggressively chic atmosphere. Come here to see-and-be-seen. but not heard. Fortunately, the food redeems the jackhammer decibel levels. The “one-world-cuisine” menu features multicultural dishes with arty presentations. Don’t miss Joe’s Shrimp Paesano-lightly breaded jumbo prawns sautéed in vodka lemon butter-or Malfadina-a squiggly pasta with rock shrimp, avocados and tomatoes. If you can find your waiter, skip the goat’s milk ice cream and splurge on the key lime tart. 215 E. 4th St.. Fort Worth. 817-334-0080. Moderate.



Angelo’s Barbecue. 2533 White Settlement Rd.. Fort Worth, 817-332-0357. Inexpensive.



Benito’s. Like a familiar old friend, Benito’s appearance may be spruced up from time to time, but the food does not change. The queso flameado, with or without chorizo, is flamed tabieside and served with fresh pico de gallo and hot flour or corn tortillas. Order it first and then spend some time with the menu-everything on it is worth trying. The enchiladas can be ordered with mole rojo or mole verde. The chiles rellenos, stuffed with white cheese or beef, are a delight. The fajitas are well marinated and never so overcooked that the subtle marinade flavor is lost. The tacos are big, fresh and filling. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave.. Fort Worth, 817-332-8633. Moderate.



Bistro Louise. We’ve rarely found food wonderful enough to warrant a 40-mile return trip, but here the tea-smoked duck-moist and fat-free, its satin skin smoked black and its luscious meat’s near-sweetness offset by a tart cranberry-port salsa-is such a dish. But almost everything we tried here was just as stellar. Desserts, lemon coconut cake and a reverse chocolate cake, were humdingers. 2900 S. Hulen St, (south from t-30), Fort Worth. 817-922-9244. Moderate to expensive.



Catharel. Counfry French as to decor, city haughty as to service, this fixed-price ($34.50) refuge easily tops Arlington’s dining scene with its ninth-floor business building location as well as its New French cuisine. Our last visit, however, found the usually striking view blocked by closed blinds and the fare less arresting than we’ve had here before. As too often happens, our meal peaked with first-course selections-sautéed sea scallops were butter-tender and beautifully sparked with goat cheese and tomato ravioli. Roast duck Breast slices lay rare as jewels on a Grand Marnier sauce-but our other entrée, sautéed mahi mahi. delivered only blandness. Ditto desserts, a mango Bavarian mousse cake and a vanilla bean tart, both undistinguished. This year’s self-financed Zagat surveyors were right to rank this popular place Arlington’s best, but to put its food second only to The Riviera s in both Dallas and Fort Worth? Oh, please. 2221 E. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 910. (Metro) 817 64099S1. Expensive.



Casa Jose. The best Tex-Mex cafe in Arlington offers all the regular Tex-Mex dishes but specializes in soft flour tortilla tacos. Their thick, slightly chewy, warm, handmade flour tortillas offer a tasty base from which to build a taco. Casa Jose isn’t good enough to merit a drive from Dallas or Fort Worth (you’d pass as good or better Tex-Mex on the way), but if you’re in the area, try it. 2030 S. Cooper St., Arlington, (metro) 817 265 5423. Inexpensive.



DarJdio’s Downtown Nearly Jazz Cafe. Like the music its name celebrates, this cafe provides a constantly evolving riff on the theme of service-sometimes it’s faster than other times. But the Greek salad is the best in town, and the rest of the menu gives a unique Texas tone to classic Greek specialties. Breakfast and lunch only, except on Friday and Saturday, when you can listen to great music at night while enjoying your dinner. 715 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-926-7000. Inexpensive.



8.0 Restaurant & Bar. Sundance Square, 111 E. 3rd. St., 817-336-0880. Inexpensive.



Gaylen’s. 826 N. Collins St., Arlington. 817-277-1945. Inexpensive.



Joe T. Garcia’s Esperanza’s Mexican Bakery. Not as fancy as its more famous cousin around the corner on North Commerce, the chefs do an excellent job preparing all the old favorites from burritos to tamales. Don’t overlook the soups here: The caldo de res, a homestyle soup with carrots, potatoes and squash, is delicious and filling. The triples a la char-ra are also above average-they are made with flair and spici-ness. Breakfast is a work of art here. Chorizo con huevo (Mexican sausage and eggs) can be ordered with potatoes, ham. bacon or pork skin. And on your way out, the bakery, in an alcove off the dining room, sells traditional Mexican breads, rolls and sweet rolls. 2122 N. Main, Fort Worth. 817-626-5770. Moderate.



Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. If there is such a thing as the quintessential Fort Worth restaurant, JoeT’s can certainly stake its claim to the title. Its location near the Stockyards is a rambling plantation that can handle the predictable crowds for whom the restaurant’s status hovers somewhere between “institution” and “nirvana.” On a balmy night, wait fora spot outside-if you’re lucky, you might score one of the primo tables surrounding the pool. Rookies intent on amusing adjacent tables ask for a dinner menu, unaware that their choice is limited to fajitas or enchiladas: Joe’s junkies typically mainline the enchilada dinner. The chaotic kitchen is a lousy place to work off even the reasonable price of this meal, so take cash or a local check because Joe doesn’t do credit cards, or reservations, either, for that matter. Oh well- nobody’s perfect. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth. 817-6264356. Moderate.



Reata. Reata is Spanish for rope. And after reading that bit of trivia on the menu, we prayed our food wouldn’t taste like hemp. It did not. The flavors purveyed {upscale, artsy fartsy Mexi-contemporary) were crisp and deftly defined, although the Texas T-bone was a little gristly and fat. With a good wine list, lots of distressed wood, floor-to-ceiling windows siphoning the brilliant Fort Worth city lights, a batch of horrifyingly overpriced cigars and a thick glaze of western decor, (including a menu finished m leather) you’d have to be a pretty crusty cowboy not to be roped-in. 35th floor. Bank One Tower. 500 Throckmorton St.. Fort Worth. 817-336-1009. Moderate to expensive.



Saint Emilion. When the 1997 Zagat survey was released, some were surprised to see this Fort Worth restaurant on the list of top 10 restaurants in the area, along with the likes of The Mansion and StarCanyon. Saint Emilion should enjoy its turn at the top. because it has stiff competition from new Fort Worth restaurants such as Bistro Louise and Angeluna. A recent visit confirmed that while the brick-walled, country French atmosphere is charming and the fooc for !hfr most part terrific, Saint Emilions hold on the top spot isn’t that secure. Two seafood appetizers were c?cellent. The house specialty, roasted duck, was tender and moist on the inside, crispy on the outside. The sommelier steered us with caring efficiency through the wine list (many vintages from the Saint Emilion region, as you migril expect), but other than that, service seemed to lack a sense of focus. This may be a romantic place to have dinner, but it shouldn’t take three hours from start to finish. 3617 W. 7th St. Fort Worth, 817-727-2781, Expensive



Sundance Deli & Market. There is no better spot in Sundance Square for a casual, imaginative brunch, lunch or dinner. Basic offerings include sandwiches, salads, breakfast, gourmet coffees and homemade desserts. On a recent visit, we sampled salads including a zesty roasted potato salad in a homemade vinaigrette, a lemon pepper chicken and spaghetti salad, and an outstanding jicama and mango slaw. Tasty tortilla soup came with shredded Cheddar covering the cup and a generous amount of tortilla chips nestled in the cheddar on one side. This is the rare restaurant that’s quick enough for just a bite, but whose smartly minimalist decor, great coffee and excel lent food make it perfect for lingering. 353 Throckmorton St.. Fort Worth, 817-335-3354. Inexpensive.



D REVISITS Water Street Seafood Company. Although Fort Worth is a little landlocked, there’s still serviceable seafood to be had, as evidenced by Water Street and its steady stream of customers. True, the dining room could use a few more walls and a few less tables, but plenty of daily specials supplement a broad range of regular entrees that would make a coastal restaurant proud. Although nothing knocked us out of our chairs, nothing was particularly frightening, either. For an inland seafood house, we call that a success. 1540 S. University Dr.. Ste. 120, Fort Worth. 817-877-3474. Moderate to expensive.