SUSHI AT THE STONELEIGH
“SUSHI, ANYONE?”
Talk about outdated- nowadays, the question would have to be “Sushi, everyone?” And the answer would have to be, “Apparently.” When staid area supermarkets set up sushi-to-go boutiques in their upscale locations, you know enthusiasm for the featured fare has progressed beyond the chic novelty phase. The 3 0-odd Japanese restaurants now doing quite nicely, thank you, in Dallas-Fort Worth bear further witness that more and more area diners are outgrowing the ” Raw fish? Eee-uu!” reaction to become ardent devotees of the sea-fresh delicacies.
In most of these establishments, though, menus include more than sushi and sashimi among their offerings-if not steaks, chicken teriyaki, and shrimp tempura, at least grilled yakitori nibbles. As far as I know, Sushi at the Stoneleigh is the only place in town that relies solely on the sushi chefs artistry to bring in the business.
Or maybe not solely: The setting here is as immaculately fresh and pretty as the food it frames. Soaring, sponge-rnarbled walls, polished blond chairs and tables, and double doors opening onto a landscaped terrace create an airy ambience; gilt-embroidered Japanese kimonos flash color against the Willis; tiny, hanging track lights bend their gaze-and yours-where it belongs: on the knife-wielding sorcery behind the bar.
This is magic without histrionics-projecting relaxed good humor, chief sorcerer Masa Nagashima, his assistant, and an obiclad waitress serve up every known sushi/sashimi standard, plus creative specialties of Nagashima’s own, from a 68-item listing. Every bite we sampled on two visits was delectable, from basic raw tuna, yellowtail, and salmon cuts on vinegar-kissed rice ovals to a more exotic spider roll centered with crunchy-cooked, soft-shell crab wrapped in seaweed and rice. A California roll, ordered to introduce my uninitiated companion to the concept, surprised me by transcending that sissy-sushi’s usual blandness; fat with avocado, crab leg, and cucumber inside its seaweed and rice, the six-bite beauty was rolled in black and blond sesame seeds for texture. Chefs-special baked mussels were divine, warmly blanketed in the half-shell by a lush blend of mayonnaise and golden smelt eggs; salmon roe on seaweed-wrapped rice burst voluptuously on the tongue; a haunting salmon skin roll took me back to the Pacific Northwest smoked -belly delicacy the Indians there call “squaw candy.”
Dinner started, by the way, with a fine, cloudy miso soup floated with scallion bits and hiding surprise cubes of silken torn, plus an hors d’oeuvre teaser of emerald seaweed, gently pickled. A second visit’s lunch special, served in a lacquered box, included a lovely wilted salad of cucumber, carrot, and fish slivers in creamy dressing along with a sushi sampling.
So. Comes the question: Excellent as the new bar’s food and service are, is Stoneleigh owner Al Gran-off crazy to include such an alien oasis in his top-to-bottom makeover of a hallowed Dallas landmark? Chcek-by-jowl with its equally hallowed flagship restaurant, Ewald’s, and lounge, the Lion’s Den?
Crazy like a fox, I’d say. Think little power lunches. Think reception trays, pre-dinner meetings, room service, conference refreshments. Think mostly, though, of your own pleasure-Sushi at the Stoneleigh also offers a broad sake selection as well as Kirin, Sapporo, and Asahi beers. Oh, and you might want to try the special chef’s roll named for Granoff-it’s filled with salmon and cream cheese. About as alien as pastrami with dill pickle, wouldn’t you say? -Betty Cook
Sushi at the Stoneleigh. 2927 Maple Ave., 871-7111, extension 446. Lunch, Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.~2:30 p.m.; dinner, Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-midnight. Inexpensive to moderate.
FOX AND HOUND
WITHIN A FEW WEEKS OF OPENING , FOX AND Hound, tucked away in a cusp-of-develop-ing area in Far North Dallas, already was drawing regular customers. A lot of money has been poured into the decor of this restaurant-pool hall-sports bar, which gleams with deeply toned wood walls, etched glass, and brass rails. There are three separate rooms with tables in each, although the central one serves primarily as the restaurant, with the pool room and bar Hanking it. The main room also sports along, undulating bar. quite often filled with customers dining on their own, lazing over a newspaper or watching a game on one of the 42 televisions scattered throughout.
The restaurant calls itself an “English Pub and Grill,” but the only English food on the menu (thank goodness) is the fish and chip platter. The food, despite its silly British names (the “Lord’s Plate” is a ham and cheese sandwich), scores points. Burgers, carefully made, weigh in at a hearty half-pound each. and the $.5.25 price includes steak fries or enormous onion rings, both of top quality, but neither cooked to a crisp. The beer cheese soup’s richness makes it advisable to order the cup instead of the bowl (actually a boule, or hollowed-out sourdough round). The kitchen consistently turns out good sandwiches that suit the atmosphere better than the entrées, which include pasta, blackened salmon, and prime rib. A $4.95 chicken que-sadilla appetizer makes a top-notch meal, loaded with freshly grilled tender chicken and grilled chiles and onions.
But, while the food has been better than anticipated, the service started out bad and hasn’t budged. On my first attempted lunch visit, I gave up and left when, after 20 minutes, no one approached my table in the nearly deserted dining room to take my order, bring me anapkin, or offer me a glass of water. On another lunch visit, I placed my order and didn’t see my waitress again until 25 minutes later, when, as she claimed, she was on her way to the kitchen to check on it.
Other visits have fared no better, and this young, way-too-casual staff needs to socialize with each other less. They also would benefit from some close supervision and training. On the other hand, lots of attention has been paid to the beer list, which offers more than 100 labels in bottles and on draft. Wine drinkers, while not offered quite as many choices, won’t have any complaints either. With a few adjustments, it could be tally-ho for die Fox and Hound. -Suzanne Hough
Fox and Hound. 18918 Midway Rd., 732-0804. Open daily, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Inexpensive to moderate.
AMERICANA
I’ve been a restaurant ckitic for around eight years, taught cooking classes, written reams about food, led cooking tours…well, you get the drift. But I’m still capable of being taken aback by a fine new restaurant, as 1 was by Americana.
The meals here start with nicely crusty slices of bread, just waiting to be dipped into a roasted garlic and sun-dried tomato aioli that begs for repeated clipping. Appetizers stole the show, resulting in a duel of the spoons as my husband and I dipped into a decadently rich, silky wild mushroom and cheese chowder.
So far, so good. But the single best thing I’ve eaten in months was an appetizer simply called “smoked ham and Brie ravioli.” Served in a bowl soup-style, their rich broth enlivened with impossibly fresh kernels of com, herbs, and tomato nuggets, these ravioli tucked intensely smoky ham and earthy Brie in between rustic homemade layers of pasta and created an unbeatable meal. Swiss chard floated nearby, adding just the right crunch.
If you can tear yourself away from the inventive appetizers, the entrées won’t let you down. There are only eight, each teamed with a different starch and vegetables. The roast chicken is pure comfort food gone upscale, with heavenly truffled whipped potatoes and barely cooked spinach, and the peppery beef tenderloin comes with a wealth of caramelized tiny onions and morels. Lunch entrées, none over $10, could serve as full meals,
Americana is off to a splendid start, but it does have room for improvement. For example, I’d like to see more salads and a sandwich or two on the menu, and the dessert list should be written, not recited. It’s too hard to remember everything the waiter says, particularly when most of the choices seem to come with a different type of homemade ice cream.
The cold, almost clinical atmosphere needs work too-this is not what you’d call a cozy setting-but chef Russell Hodges has the food down pat. -S.H.
Americana. 3003 Routh St., 871-2004. Lunch, Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner, Monday-Thursday, 6-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 6-11 p.m. Moderate.
CATHY’S PACIFIC
THIS AMBITIOUS OFFSHOOT OF PLANO’S Cathy’s Wok offers a lot: a gracious dining room, a separate room for speedy take-out service, decent wines, homemade pie, and even owner Catherine Liu’s popular cookbook Chinese Cooking the American Way. And that’s one of the reasons these two restaurants are so successful-there’s an American twist to what’s called the Chinese-Thai-Vietnamese menu, which helps to alleviate the inherent fear that many people have of trying new cuisines. There’s also attention given to “light and healthy” entrées, with a whole section of the menu listing calories and fat per serving. Chinese-American dishes dominate the menu, although a handful of Thai and Vietnamese dishes appear.
The single best item on the menu, however, might be the Vietnamese bouillabaisse, a fragrant seafood-based cross between a soup and a stew. It’s indecently loaded with seafood, savory king crab, plump little shrimp, miniature clams, seaworthy scallops, and more. The broth alone, scented with tastes of shallots and chiles in one bite, lemon grass and herbs in another, deserves more than the oven-hardened baguette that comes with the meal. Ask for an unheated baguette, however, and you’ll be treated to a skinny loaf that’s worthy of sopping up all of the bouillabaisse’s juices.
Cathy’s uses top-notch ingredients, from the jumbo nuts in the cashew chicken to the crisply sautéed vegetables in the spring rolls. The prices are reasonable too-lunch specials ring in at $5.95, and include steamed or fried rice and a spring roll. The menu notes that food can be ordered moderately hot, hot, or extra hot, and hot is the best way to go to get a little heat without overpowering the food.
Meaty honey-garlic chicken wings start off a meal well, but pot-stickers disappoint with their nondescript filling. Skewers of satay chicken win raves; the beef satay tends to be tough. Seafood dishes fare well here, like the tender shrimp with lobster sauce and the zesty Thai snapper marinated in cilantro, chile, and curry. Traditional Americanized favorites like chow mein, chop suey, and fried rice appear on Cathy’s menu, but the menu also offers plenty for adventurous eaters. Try Cathy’s on a Friday or Saturday night, when your taste buds can dance with a Cantonese lobster or Singapore chile crab, both liberally laced with garlic. -S.H.
Cathy’s Pacific. 5950-A Royal In., 739-3378. Monday-Thursday, 11a.m.- 9:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.- 10p.m., Sunday, 12-9 p.m. Inexpensive to moderate.
THESE RESTAURANT LISTINGS ARE. REVISED and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment.
Inclusion in this directory has nothing-whatever to do with paid advertising.
KEY:
● Inexpensive: Dinner entrées under $
● Moderate: Most entrées $10 to $
● Expensive: Most entrées $25 or more
(Based on a typical dinner for one, not including drinks, lax, and tip.)
Barbecue
Red, Hot & Blue. This restaurant promises Memphis blues and red-hot barbecue, and it delivers, Go for the “wet” smoked pork ribs and add the dry seasoning that’s at every table, but beware of the blisteringly hot “hoochie-koochie” sauce on the table. The baked beans, with green pepper and onion, were tangy but the cole slaw was bland; we wondered if someone forgot the dressing. New potato salad, however, was chunky and firm with the right mix of egg and seasoning. 9810 N. Central Expy. at Walnut Hill Lane, Ste. 600,368-RIBS or fax 373-FAXS for orders to go. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Sonny Bryan’s. Visiting (he orig-inal Inwood location is like going to barbecue church, or going back to the second grade, depending on how long ago you were in second grade (do school desks even look like these anymore?). Either way, it’s a ritual that’s sometimes uncomfortable but must be followed: Go in, turn in your order, sit down and warm yourself by the gas space heater if it’s cold, waiting for your name to be called. The basic barbecue sandwich plate remains as fresh and new as the day the late Sonny first lit the fire in the barbecue pit: tender, flavorful meat piled on a soft bun, accompanied by wondrously spicy sauce, smoky beans, and cole slaw with a hint of tartness. The onion rings are to be treasured, a crusty shell around a soft, piping hot, sweet onion. The food may be as good at the new locations, but like an old hometown, the gritty ambience of the original must be visited from time to time. Only there can you have the essential Sonny Bryan’s experience, from which you come away satisfied and smiling, not caring about the barbecue sauce you dropped on your clothes while sitting at the cramped old school desks. 2202 Inwood Rd., 357-7120; and other locations. Inexpensive.
Brewpubs
Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen. This microbrewery attracts couples with lots in tow, as well as tourists and pool-playing guys with ties at half-mast. Try a platter of andouille sausage, red beans, and rice, and wash it down with a Vail Pale Ale. Avoid the West End Wheat, which tastes like water. The service is friendly and attentive. 1701 N, Market St., 651-0808. Moderate.
The Rock Bottom Brewery. The crowd is full of breathlessly hip, buffed, and gelled singles looking for Mr./Mrs. Right. While scanning the crowd, enjoy a glass of Roadrunner Stout, a spicy, almost gingery-flecked pint of power. Avoid the mutant Jazzberry The burgers, nachos, and sandwiches have cutesy names and reasonable prices, but so-so presentations. 4O50 Belt Line Rd.,West Addison. 404-7456. Moderate.
Routh Street Brewery and Grill, For starters, try the musky, rich mushroom soup and a heaping bowl of buttery ale-steamed mussels. Fried fish and chips were hearty and crisp and the Wiener schnitzel is huge and delectable, A hickory-grilled half chicken was to swoon over, splendidly accompanied by horseradish-seen ted whipped potatoes and a rosy pear-and-red cabbage melange. The beer is also noteworthy. Try the sampler of five two-ounce servings that will help you settle on one to drink with your dinner. The desserts, however, were disappointing-the spiced apple strudel’s crust has a toughness reminiscent of microwaved pastries. 3011 Routh St., 922-8835. Moderate.
Two Rows Restaurant & Brewery. The best beer at this SMU hangout is the Route 66 Amber Ale; the strangest is Uncle Red’s Raspberry Ale. The food is hearty and filling-anyone who can finish the humongous nachos should receive a complimentary beer and Turns, 5500 Greenville Ave., Ste. 1300,696-2739. Moderate.
Yegua Creek Brewing Co. You may come for the beer, but you’ll come back for the food. The pheasant quesadillas easily win Bar Food Hall of Fame status. To quench your thirst, try the Icehouse Pale Ale and the White Rock Red. But 86 that Apricot Ale. 2920 N. Henderson Ave., 824-BREW. Inexpensive.
Burgers/Casu
Bid Bates Cowboy Gril. On the menu here are Kick Offs (appetizers), ribs, chicken-fried steak, smoked pork chops, and burgers, along with a few token salads and Pass-tas ( pastas |. You’ll also find two “training camp healthy” choices, a menu for kids, bottled beer, and Dom Perignon, You can admire Bill’s collection of football memorabilia. 18101 Preston Rd., Ste. 204, 380-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chip’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. You loved it on Central. You’ll love it on Cole. Chip’s award-winning burgers are as good as ever served at the new location in the turn-of-the-century structure that was built as a Baptist church. The classic hamburger is a messy, delicious concoction. Seasoned fries, chicken sandwiches, grilled cheese, and salads are good, simple-if fattening-fare. 4501 Cole Ave., 526-1092. Inexpensive.
Fresh ’N Lite. The name can be a little misleading-the menu does offer a lot of fat-free foods, but this place is out to please everyone, so the menu includes burgers, croissant-based sandwiches, and even com dogs. Most popular are the enormous bowls of salad in 13 varieties. The Caesar features perfectly grilled chicken, olives, and onions, and makes a satisfying meal, although the accompanying pasty while rolls need improvement. Save room for a hot fruit cobbler. 6150 Frankford Rd., 713-8167. Inexpensive.
Randy White’s All American Grill and Bar. Randy is usually out selling trucks, but his Restaurant Row standby offers decent quesadillas and burgers, a good beer list, and enough Televisions to watch all the NFL games at once. A football shrine in the entryway houses awards and trophies from White’s career. 10821 Composite Dr., 351-3261. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cajun/Creole
Café Margaux. Kay Agnew endows whatever space her restaurant occupies with a distinctively Southern comfort, and its food is outstanding as well. Prime examples: A half-dozen fried oysters, their little frills crisped with corn meal, came arranged on a pale, lemony sauce laced with nuggets of cracked pepper, while the days special of blackened halibut, with gilding pearly leaves of moist, sweet flesh, delivered a truly sub-tle murmur of Creole warmth in seared surface seasonings. Crestpark Hotel, 4242 Lomo Alto Dr., 520-1985. Moderate to expensive.
Copeland’s of New Orleans. The menu lists low-calorie choices like steamed vegetables and grilled fish, but classic Cajun food is the real star here–po-boys and deep-fried catfish, gumbo and shrimp étouffée. Don’t skip the thick, rich homemade ice cream or the traditional bananas Foster. Do, however, ask them to turn down the music. It’s way too loud. 5353 Belt Line Rd., 661-1883. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. Don’t come for the decor, with its brick walls, wobbly tables, and neon signs; or for the service; Each member of the staff gamely attempts to handle two or three times a normal load. Come here, like the suits all around you do. to fling your tie over your shoulder and chow down. Seafood gumbo, a wealth of a meal in a bowl, is reason enough to become a regular; pair it with half of a po-boy, and you’re set for the day. (Steer clear of the po-boys featuring roast beet, though; this tough, stringy beef tastes like Mom’s overcooked pot roast). The classic New Orleans muffaletta sandwich, slathered with a tangy olive dressing that zips up the meats and cheeses, travels well-a perfect foil to airline food or some-thing to take home for dinner. Sample those New Orleans-style doughnuts, beignets, before you leave, though-they’re best hot. 2615 Commerce St., 745-1900. Inexpensive,
Chinese
May Dragon. Blending Mandarin. Hunan, Cantonese, and Szechwan-style offerings, May Dragon serves Chinese banquet-style dishes any day of the week. At lunch, try the unusual Ming lettuce rolls, consisting of a large iceberg lettuce bow] lapped with hoisin sauce and filled with minced chicken and vegetables. From the elaborate dinner menu, the Magic Seafood Basket of Maine lobster tail, crab meat, scallops, and shrimp in a knitted noodle basket was beautiful, the crab and lobster exquisite, though the sherry sauce was surprisingly strong. 4848 Belt Line Rd., 392-9998. Moderate to expensive.
Taiwan Restaurant. The menu might look like a loi of other Chinese restaurants’, but that’s where any similarity ends. First, the decor: These elegantly decorated, spacious rooms are lined with windows to take advantage of the view from Taiwan’s second-floor location. Second, dim sum is offered daily (11:30 a.m.-2:}0 p.m.), and it’s authentic, complete with carts loaded with little plates of these Chinese appetizers. There’s sticky rice, egg rolls, dumplings, and much more. 4980 Belt Line Rd, Ste. 200, Addison. 387 2333. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. When it opened more than 10 years ago, Uncle Tai’s earned massive acclaim, but it’s been coasting too much on its reputation lately. The “two delicacy” cold platter spunkily begins a meal, especially il it teams slivered chicken in an assertive sesame sauce with peppercorn-topped tender prawns, but. meals can slide rapidly downhill to candy-sweet “hot, spicy shrimp” and over-tenderized chicken with cashews. Spring rolls start off well, with a greaseless crisp crunch, but the filling remains a mystery. The setting, overlooking the wannabes on The Galleria’s ice skating rink, offers more enjoyment than the food does. In The Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy, 934-9998. Moderate.
Coffeehouses
D REVISITS Cafe Brazil. Before entice went big-chain cool in Dallas, Cafe Brazil was dispensing exotic Java and adventurous food from a narrow nook in Lakewood Shopping Center. After a fire ravaged the block, CB moved to a spacious site up the street on Abrams-no more waiting on the sidewalk for tables-and opened an outpost on Centra], where regulars brave die construction chaos. On a sunny morning, the Lakewood spot is perfect for newspaper-mulling and sampling numerous coffees, among them the divine Kenya Double A. For extra fuel, treat yourself to a just-spicy-enough vegetable empanada, great French toast, or one of the larger breakfasts, (served all day) easily big enough for two. 6420 N. Central Expy., 691-7791; and 2221 Abrams Rd., 826-9522. Inexpensive.
Java Island. With its jungle decor, you really feel like you’ve landed on a tropical island. But there is no Gilligan-like isolation here-scan the Internet on the in-house computers while enjoying one of the menu’s Italian selections or create-your-own sandwiches. Of course, the main draw is 40 flavors of coffee at Si .25 a cup. 3020 Legacy Dr., Ste. 270, Piano. 491-1695. Inexpensive.
Java Jones. Offering one of the least expensive cups of coffee among Dallas’ upscale Java joints (S1.60 per bottomless cup ), Java Jones also has an Italian menu-panini, pasta, and gelato. The restaurant attracts the body-piercing, tattooed crowd, 3211 Oak Lawn Ave., 528-2099. Inexpensive.
Deli
Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. Mile-high combination sandwiches, best on rye, include The Brooklyn Bridge, a triple-decker of corned beet, lean pastrami, chopped liver, and onion, and The Queensboro Bridge, stuffed with turkey, pastrami, Swiss cheese, cole slaw, and thousand island dressing. Be sure to sample the fabulous borscht with sour cream and the garlickly new cucumber pickles. For those who long for Eastern European dishes, specialties include stuffed cabbage, knish-es, and chicken or flanken in the pot. 127 Preston Forest Village, 373-3333. Inexpensive.
Street’s. This sandwich shop puts most others to shame. After chomping through most of Street’s menu, one of our favorites is the V.I.P, a turkey, dressing, and cranberry sauce sandwich. Another favorite is the vegetarian number with grilled por-tobello mushrooms layered with onion, tomatoes, and melted cheese. Two common threads: The bread is good, and the quality of the produce is high. For dessert, the buttery rum cake and car-rot cake are especially satisfying. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-2505. Inexpensive.
Eastern European
Franki’s Li’l Europe. Try the reliable German combo of bratwurst, ham, sauerkraut, and baked apples; the jaeger schnitzel, served with savory spaetzle; or the awe-inspiring pork medallions in wild blackberry sauce, quickly voted Dish We Wish We’d Ordered by the nibblers at our table. The star of the show is the ebullient Franki himself, always in suspenders and ready to laugh. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, I20-U426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Eclectic
D REVISITS Deep Ellum Cafe. After a new menu premiered in December, regulars heaved a sigh of relief when they saw their favorites, like the multi-flavored Vietnamese salad, appear on the new menu as well. This way-too-loud restaurant wisely played up its strength, top-notch homemade breads, and expanded the sandwich offerings. The menu descriptions do not do the food justice-the Dagwood sandwich conjures up images of a piled-high sub, but it arrives gooily warm, a gourmet knife-and-fork treat, with an unmentioned side salad (like perfectly ripe fruit salad topped with strawberry puree! that fights for equal attention. Desserts, also homemade, are so rich that a bite or two suffices, although the chocolate terrine positioned on a butter-rich caramel sauce, can lead you, trance-like, back for a few more bites. This eclectic menu borrows from cuisines all over the globe, and plays plenty of attention to vegetarians. 95001 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 392-0894. Inexpensive to moderate.
8.0 Restaurant and Bar. Mead here on any Thursday night to mingle with the standing-room-only, coolest crowd in Dallas. Even the non-hip crowd comes for Sunday brunch, especially fora courtyard seat. Healthful cooking is stressed, but pancakes, chili cheeseburgers, and bacon appear alongside the “workout omelette.” You’ll find large portions and low prices, but 8.0*s goal isn’t to attract epicureans. The “Lava Lamp,” an 8.0 drink involving jello shots and vodka, has a loyal following, and die blue frozen margaritas are nothing but fun in a glass. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., 979-0880. Inexpensive.
The Grape. The interior of The Grape is painted to look mellowly aged, like a wine cellar, and it’s guaranteed to stir up romance. Chef David Burdette toils behind a glass wall, and a huge blackboard displays the day’s menu, specials, and wine by the glass. Whatever you order, start with the mushroom soup?-it’s famous, and justifiably so. The menu changes every few days and includes classics like beef tournedos, osso buco, and grilled swordfish, each given a unique Burdette sauce or accompaniment. 2808 Green ville Ave, 828-1981. Moderate,
Martini Ranch. Many of die martinis here have high prices and froufrou names-the jokingly hot Martini Picante with jalapeno-stuffed olives; the ’ sickly sweet Sidecar with brandy and curacao; and the chocolate martini, Godiva liqueur in a chocolate-rimmed glass (much better than it sounds, but save it for dessert). Among nibblies, try the excellent smoked trout, crab claws, and crispy ealamari, The Jackie “O,” a baked potato soused with vodka and dabbed with caviar, is cooked to death and overpriced. 2816 Fairmount St., 220-2116. Inexpensive to moderate.
D REVISITS Sipango. Meals start off promis-ingly at Sipango, where tables are packed with the impossibly young. thin, and trendy, They dip morsels of the excellent line-crumbed crusty bread in nil and peruse the very thorough wine list. There’s much to admire in this huge restaurant, where rustic brick walls and starched white linens complement each other. After that, it’s hit or miss, with food that often looks better than it tastes. Sautéed shrimp/corn cakes contain lots of rubbery shrimp and a stray kernel or two of corn; the accompanying lime aioli lacks zip. So does the much-praised Caesar salad’s dressing. The best choices seem to come from the grill or the pizza oven, and a pizza topped with juicy grilled chicken, applewood smoked bacon, and mushrooms nicely combines both. Desserts, from the apple pie with a thick, doughy crust to the gluey, odd version of crème brulée, disappoint, but the selection of after-dinner drinks pleasantly surprises, 4513 Travis St., 522-2411. Moderate.
French/Continent
Addison Cafe. The intimate setting, clusters of long-stemmed flowers, and regal service bode well for a night of amour. Hot crusty rolls and a Salade Victor Hugo, greens topped with juicy-grilled chicken, tomatoes, and walnuts, team up for a swell lunch; and a spinach, gruyère, and sun-dried tomato salad makes a nice segue into dinner. The heaps of vegetables served with the entrees are so beautifully prepared and conked that it’s tempting to polish them off first. However, you’ll be devoting equal time to the beef tournedos in their intoxicating bordelaise sauce if you’ve been clever enough to order that, Prestonwood Place, 5290 Bell Line Rd., Addison, 991-8824. Moderate.
Calluaud’s Bistro. Long one of Dallas’ most charming French eateries, Galluaud’s now concentrates on casual entrées and tapas, with an occasional “small bite” from die restaurant’s previous, skillfully executed, traditional French menu. Among the entrées, try the moist, perfectly cooked red snapper topped with tomatoes, onions, green peppercorns, rosemary, and a touch of vinegar, served with sautéed squash. And don’t be surprised if you’re seated by the owner’s wife or teenage daughter, or if the chef himself, Guy Calluaud, comes out of the kitchen to set a table or straighten the silver. 5405 W. Lovers Ln., I52-1997. Moderate.
Chez Gerard. While upholding the restaurant’s reputation for exquisite food, service, and wine, Chez Gerard makes French cuisine approachable. Try simple, rustic country French dishes like casserole of scallops in red wine sauce, rabbit fricassee, or dishes rarely seen outside France like roasted pigeon, grilled mullet, or halibut tartare. Meals are served in the cozy, dimly lit, inside room or in the covered patio, and both locations set the stage tor romance. -14-4-4 McKinney Ave., 522-6865. Moderate.
The French Room. At Dallas’ pre-eminent grand-occasion restaurant, the price is haughty, although the courtly and unassuming staff certainly is not. And the menu is charged with such romantic eloquence it might make the best-seller lists as The Dishes of Dallas Count). But it’s not just hype-every dish we sampled more than lived up to its billing, from an appetizer of foie gras terrine with mesclun salad to a roasted breast of guinea hen. split and filled with sweet crab-meat. Chef Donald Guillory’s cuisine makes dining here a special occasion. In the Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce St.. 742-8200. Expensive.
The Green Room. Chef Chris Pyun’s food will stop you from wondering whether the Green Room’s decor is Victorian melodrama, French farce, or Deep Ellum send-up; the Culinary Institute of America alum cooks avant French, scaled down in price by resourceful mixing of local and seasonal ingredients with more exotic elements. An occasional snap of piquancy salutes Southwestern influences, as in the consummately delicious red bell pepper soup barely laced with lingering fire I ram a float of jalapeno coulis. 2715 Elm St.. 748-7666. Moderate.
La Madeleine. The original restaurant, open more than 10 years now, provides a morning home to dozens of breakfasters every day. The menu’s a mixed bag. with hearty croissant breakfast sandwiches sidling up to low-fat organic granola. The restaurant packs in crowds throughout the day as well, serving them bowls of excellent, thick tomato basil soup until long after the sun has set. The Caesar is so popular that its croutons and dressing have been packaged for sale, as have the tomato soup and coffee, and there’s always a line ordering bread to go. New items dot the menu, including nicely grilled salmon and penne with ratatouille, but don’t worry-old favorites remain, such as the classic herbed rotisserie chicken. I072 Mockingbird Ln.. 696-0800.Inexpensively.
Le Chardonnay. Restaurateur Michel Baudouin’s same-name Dallas spin-off of his Fort Worth establishment serves the same menu as the original. Yet the two could hardly be more different physically. The western Le Chardonnay is merry and casual, while the Dallas version strikes a serene, urbane note. At both locations, M. Baudouin’s French fare is modulated to appeal to Texas palates. Black bean soup and beef tenderloin sauced with jalapeno and cilantro are popular favorites, as is a rather sweet tan featuring apples with purple, green, and Vidalia onions on sturdy pastry. A pan-seared veal chop with port saucev was flavorful. Finish it all with a lighter-tban-air serving of Floating Island. 500 Crescent Court, Ste. 165. 922-4555. Moderate to expensive.
Old Warsaw. Romance is on the menu at Old Warsaw, with its candlelit atmosphere, unobtrusive service, and strolling violinists. The menu is solidly Continental and features lots of tableside preparation. The lobster crêpe, packed with cubes of sweet meat, makes an excellent appetizer, as does the rich, creamy Brie soup. The entrées include braised pheasant, rack of lamb, and sweetbreads. Crab-stuffed tenderloin, a favorite choice, is meltingly tender and a visual delight. The wine list is excellent, and you’ll have plenty of time to study it if, as often happens, you’re shown to the bar for a lengthy wait until your tables ready. 2610 Maple Ave., 528-00I2. Expensive.
The Pyramid Room. Despite the plush atmosphere and impeccable service, you don’t have to spend big bucks to have a tine meal here. In addition to the regular menu, there’s a live-course dinner for S24 per person offered nightly, with dishes such as sautéed calamari, chilled cucumber soup, homemade sorbet, and grilled beef tenderloin on polenta. Dessert is included, and the beautifully garnished macadamia nut tone is a favorite. The lobster bisque is a classic, smooth and rich with morsels of lobster, and the basket of breads is irresistible. The wine list, recognized by Wine Spectator, is outstanding. Live music nightly. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St.. 720-5249. Expensive.
The Riviera. We know of no place in Dallas where food, service, and ambience unfailingly come together in a more pleasurable whole, from seating and gill hors d’oeuvres to bitter, smooth farewell chocolate truffle. Between those grace notes, every course shines with the exuberance characteristic of the restaurant’s namesake Mediterranean region. One appetizer featured rich nuggets of Maine lobster with fresh-scented celery root in sautéed cakes nestled in basil-lobster sauce along with infant leaves of arugula and cilantro. We also found a perfect soup: a chilled Provencal blending of fresh and sun-dried tomato afloat with ripe avocado slices around a crouton heaped with crab meat. 7709 Inwood Rd., 351-0094. Expensive.
Watel’s. This spirited eatery on McKinney Avenue treats guests with neighborly informality and uncommonly amiable, caring, and personal service. And the kitchen feels secure enough to vary its mostly classic country French bill, of fare with not-so-Gallic dishes like pasta, vegetarian specials, and even an occasional Asian accent. But Watel’s culinary nationality is defined in its house specialties-in a white bean-based cassoulet bulging with lamb, duck confit, sausage, and smoked pork, and in the organ meats, prepared here with consummate skill. 1923 McKinney Ave., 720-0323. Moderate.
Greek
Kostas Cafe. Greek restaurants often win raves for their appetizers, and Kostas offers all the traditional favorites. A light, lemony flavor underscores the saganaki, a creamy, mild cheese that’s breaded, fried, and served in flames, and the dol-mas bulge with their rice and meat filling. The ever-popular spinach and feta cheese pie called spanakopita can be ordered either as an appetizer or entree, and it packs a light, airy mouthful of flavor. Skip the dreary salads and move on to a gyro sandwich packed with lamb and beef, or kabobs starring succulent grilled pork tenderloin. Combination platters offer the best way to sample the menu, and be sure to peruse the wine list, with 21 wines available by the glass. The homemade rum cake may not be an authentic Greek dessert (don’t worry, there’s also baklava), but it packs a tasty punch. 4621 W, Park Blvd., Piano, 596-8424. Moderate.
Home Cooking
Barbec’s. Traditionally, good food is served at this Fast Dallas casual establishment. On our last visit, however, eggs ordered over medium were runny and sausage sat too long under a heating lamp. Grits are the standout item while the well-known beer-batter biscuits are slightly sweet. On weekday mornings, the line can stretch out the door. 8949 Garland Rd., 321-5597. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Mecca. On a recent visit we found the quality of the highly-touted Mecca breakfast had slipped considerably, The gravy was downright thin and tasteless, and you can get eggs, grits, hash browns, and bacon cooked this competently at a number of places. Biscuits are harder to find, though, and the Mecca’s are certainly acceptable-fluffy and hot, but not remarkable. But this veteran establishment can’t be beat for atmosphere; it’s got the feel and the look of a truckstop diner, except it’s clean and bright and offers a nonsmoking section (una has enough regular customers who are nonsmokers, apparently, to make that distinction more factual than symbolic). 10422 Harry Hines Blvd.,352-0051. Inexpensive.
Natchez. Southern hospitality is warmly dispensed here, in surroundings that suggest alarge home’s dining room. The food’s markedly Southern, te?-even tortilla soup, that Southwestern cliché, was gumbo-thick, dusky, and decidedly piquant. The small menu’s potato cakes, delicately crisp-skinned, were lapped in a sweet honey-mustard sauce; the king cake, a tender patty of chopped scallops, crawfish, shrimp, and salmon, came on a tangy tartar sauce, garnished with cilantro-kissed chopped tomato. Stuffed chicken breast was two half-breasts filled with crawfish and white cheese, bound together tor cooking, then bedded on subtle cilantro pesto cream. Corn-crusted catfish, a huge filet, emitted a to-die-for fragrance and tasted as good with its unexpected beurre blanc sauce. But the big surprise of our visit was an outstanding crème brulée, its sugar-shell top still warm and crackling beneath the spoon. It blew us away. 2810 N. Henderson Ave., 821-4552. Inexpensive to moderate,
Norma’s. This Southern diner with its quirky, Gumpesque quality serves man-sized portions of standard breakfast fare. Everything from cereal and pancakes to bacon and eggs can be combined into a meal for $3 to $5. Friendly, pampering waitresses keep good coffee hot at all times. 3330 Belt Line Rd., 243-3646. Inexpensive.
Poor Richard’s Café. Located in a strip shopping center in East Piano, this country cafe has been serving families and working folks for more than 20 years. The menu has a range of stout breakfast and lunch offerings. In the morning, the signature BBQ Omelet is a Western-style delight and the pancakes are light and fluffy. The waitresses are plentiful, courteous, and efficient, 2442 Avenue K at Park Boulevard, 423-1524, Inexpensive.
Indian
India Palace. With gracefully figured arcades, a glass window overlooking the deep clay tandoor ovens, and a bountiful buffet, India Palace can appear quite splendid. Try the mulligatawny soup-tomato with an undercurrent of coconut-and pureed lentil punctuated with a host of distinct herbs. Curried chicken is creamy, tender, and moist, while the bright-red marinated tandoori chicken and grilled Sat bread or naan, both seared by the intense dry heat of the tandoor oven, are without parallel. End it all with a luscious mango custard or creamy rice pudding with almonds, pistachios, and a hint of rosewater, 12817 Preston Rd., 392-0190. Moderate,
Italian
Alessio’s. Among the frequently superb offerings, we especially recommend the light-as-air gnocchi with gorgonzola, the grilled double veal chops steeped in five herbs, and the creamy, tomato-scented pasta fra diavolo. As an appetizer, escargot, tough and chewy, were disenchanting, all the more so when we discovered that our waiter had failed to reel off the day’s inventive list of savory appetizers. To compensate, we were treated to a heavenly dessert of homemade vanilla ice cream with blanched almonds, ripe- strawberries, and chocolate sauce. Service, including frequent visits from the owner, was personable and caring. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr., 521-3585, Moderate,
D REVISITS Angelo’s Italian Grill. 1 lew to the spicier side of the menu-clams in red sauce over linguine, say, or Pasta Romano with Italian sausage, pepperoni, olives,and Roma tomatoes over penne-and you’ll be fine. Entrées in the white-sauce family, however, can be cloy-ingly rich, as was a three-cheese pasta on a recent visit. The Gorgonzola,, Parmesan, and fontina swamping the linguine lost their individual tastes in the creamy sea, and only a heavy application of red pepper helped us finish half the plate. But given the affable service, reasonable prices ($7.95-$ 12.95), and generous portions, we’ll be back-with fingers crossed. 6141 La Vista Dr.. 823-5566. Inexpensive.
Campisi’s Egyptian, Forget “Egyptian.” The name remains as a shadowy memory of a previous restaurant that occupied this strip-mall site. Think Italian, think authentic Little Italy in San Francisco or New Haven, and you’ll conjure Up a picture of this restaurant that’s been a Dallas institution for more than 40 years. Shove open the padded red vinyl door to Campisi’s, stumble to a leatherette booth in this darkened room, and plunk a quarter in your mini jukebox to have the Chairman of the Board or Dean Martin croon a tune for you as you sip Chianti and read the menu. People swear by Campisi’s rectangular pizzas, with their ultra-thin crusts, but they use stallions instead of onions, and what appear to be canned mushrooms instead of fresh, so we prefer the heaps of red-sauced pastas, especially the cheesy lasagna. Herbs lace the giant meatballs, the scampi is a garlicky delight, and the light-tasting cheesecake (made by a local German baker) is an absolute must. 55610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 827-0355. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Ciao Bella. The dark wood sur- roundings seem formal at first, but our very personable waiter put us on less formal terms immediately, discussing the Italian wine list and specials like an old friend The very menu begins the seduction with its lyrical, mouthwatering description of the cuisine of Chef Tommaso’s Italian home of Bologna; when our dinner was served, its exquisite flavor and the loving, handmade care with which Tommaso recreates his home cuisine brought joy to our palates and fueled the culinary romance, An appetizer of baked artichoke tilled with veal, ricotta, spinach, and herbs seemed somehow to expand to more than the sum of its flavor components once it reached the tongue, and linguine with clams, herbs, garlic, and white wine didn’t disappoint. The star of our meal was a special, peppered salmon in brandy sauce, which was flaky, succulent, and oh-so-smooth, with just the right amount of pepper kick. Sinatra wafting through [he speakers and delicate tiramisu for two ended the meal without ending the romance. 3232 McKinney Ave.. 871 -2074. Inexpensive to moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar And Trattoria. Original art on the walls, soul music in the background I but not too loud), and eclectic, friendly servers make Flip’s a great place to just hang oui and sample the unusual imported beer and wine–but don’t miss the food. Flip’s Italian nachos are a must-we had Texas goat cheese and red bell peppers on ours. Order some bruschetta with the nachos and it could make a meal, but why stop there? The man-icotti will put smiles on faces and songs in stomachs. 1520 Greenville Ave., 824-9944. Moderate.
Joey’s. Every dish we saw or sampled here was beautifully composed on the plate and only three were less interesting than they looked-an avocado pancake, Joey’s Nutty salad, and capellini crusted salmon. On the plus side, Joey’s serves a delicious rotisserie-roasted duck with fresh raspberries and richly seasoned wild rice. Also good is the fazzoletto, a tissue-chin pasta handkerchief folded around arugula, spinach, and ricotto cheese. The shrimp and crab cheesecake with pesto was mouthwatering. Desserts were anticli-mactic after the meal, but the seven-layer cheesecake and house tiramisu are pleasant. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-0074. Moderate to expensive.
Mi Piaci. The name means “you are pleasing to me.” You’ll see why when you check out this Addison restaurant, with its team of workers making fresh pasta, an 80-pound wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano on display, and columns twisting from wood floor to high, sponged ceiling. The pasta is outstanding, especially the fusil-li loaded with earthy wild mushrooms, and the risotto ranks among the best in town. Delicious homemade bread and a largely Italian (and largely superb) wine list will make for a very pleasing dining experience. 14854 Montfort Dr., Addison., 934-8424. Moderate.
D REVISITS MoMo’s Italian Specialties. This eatery plays like an Italian opera, from the soprano highs of the al dente homemade pastas to the baritone lows of its strip-mall decor. The pizzas (the menu lists wo dozen mouthwatering versions) achieve perfection, with crusts that retain their crispness, topped with the freshest brush of tomato sauce and the softest puddles of mozzarella. The stuffed pastas, like lasagne, rotolo verde, and spinach-filled ravioli satisfy* the heartiest appetites, and a pungent parsley pesto enlivens the complimentary focaccia. So far, excursions onto the secondi piatti (second course) list haven’t met the expectations created by what precedes it. There’s no wine list, so bring your own Chianti. Be sure to end your meal with a slice of the chocolate mousse cake MoMo’s wife makes, or one of the many ice cream selections, each crowned with homemade whipped cream. 919I Forest Ln., 234-6800. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nicola’s. it took four visits to this smoothly polished Italian gem before we could bear to order anything other than their killer quatro stagioni pizza (divided into four sections of artichokes, mushrooms, prosciutto, and tomato/basil). The pizza dough, like the homemade breads, gets its distinctive crunch from a high-heat stint in the wood-burning oven in this smartly designed restaurant’s exhibition kitchen. Homemade mozzarella graces the pizza, as well as several of the pasta dishes, like the lush lasagne special layered with chicken and spinach. Minestrone starts the meal in a hearty fashion; it’s a better choice than the lackluster salads. A bottle of Antinori Chianti complements Nicola’s food perfectly, and dinners end best with a dish of homemade gelato (rich icecream). Be careful, however, if you order the focaccia Nicola appetizer. You’ll never stop with just one order. The Galleria, third floor, 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 788-1177. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoros. Here you’ll rind fresh, delectable Italian pasta, frittatas, veal, and fish in a Napa Valley-esque setting just north of downtown. Go light (and cheap) with minestrone, complimentary fresh bread with sautéed tomatoes, and a Chianti Classico, or belly up to spicy Penne Arrabiata or Linguine Verde con Popla di Granchio (spinach linguine with crabmeat). Appetizers shine, especially the silky Carpaccio Pomodoro and bountiful Calamaretti. Service is spunkily efficient. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd., 871-1924. Moderate.
Ruggeri’s Ristorante. How does Ruggeri’s please Dallas? Diners have been counting the ways for years-this congenial Italian restaurant has a following of prosperous regulars who swear by the dependable excellence of its cuisine, from crab claws Lamonte sautéed in lemon butter, garlic, and crunchy minced shallots to creamy zabagtione afloat with fresh raspberries and strawberries. The strawberries were winter-firm for our visit and should have been omitted, but everything else we sampled demonstrated Ruggeri’s exacting standards. Cappeline al Salmone was, as usual, a transcendent composition of angel hair pasta punctuated with smoked salmon curls and caviar in vodka sauce. Scalloppine alle Carciofo presented veal scallops sautéed with artichoke hearts and mushrooms in a lively lemon butter sauce. Service was not quite up to its usual cosseting quality-perhaps because owner Tom Ruggeri was absent on the early weeknight, but more likely because actress Brenda Vaccaro’s large, happy party had everyone in the place voyeuristically pixilated. We throbbed with the rest of the wistful herd. 2911 Routh St., 871-7377. Moderate.
Japanese
Hana. We give Hana high marks for authenticity, from the sushi bar to die tatami room to the stacks of Japanese newspapers and magazines available for their customers’ perusal. The serene atmosphere quickly makes you forget you’re in strip-mall territory, sandwiched between liquor stores and bars. The sashimi’s predictably good, especially the flavor-packed salmon, although the sushi list should explain just what things like “Texas roll” consist of for those of us who don’t know. Both the lunch and dinner menus offer bento boxes, Japan’s version of a combination platter, and these taste impeccably fresh. The crisp tempura shrimp and vegetables have only recently emerged from their hot oil bath; the chicken or beef in teriyaki sauce are minutes off the grill. Extra care has even been given to the salads, with slices of real Japanese cucumbers and flecks of grated ginger in the dressing. 14865 Inwood Rd., 991-8322. Moderate.
Nakamoto. The lunch menu looks familiar-complete meals featuring teriyaki, tempura, tonkat-su, and other favorites of Americans. But the dinner menu offers these and much more. Every night, the finest seasonal foods fill the multiple-layered little drawers in a bento box, a multi-course least-tor-one. You can choose traditional tea-ceremony cooking, “boat dinners” (combination platters perfect for sharing), or meals like shabu-shabu cooked at your table. And whether at lunch or dinner, don’t miss ordering from the sushi bar, which lists about four dozen of the freshest sushi and sashimi in town. Ruisseau Village, 3309 N. Central Expy., 881-0328. Moderate.
Sumo Sushi. Regally hooded rattan chairs enthrone diners in the lower lounge, striking an exotic note of Eastern mystery, but abundant servings and well-prepared food are the true hallmarks of this newcomer. Get your fill of cool cuts of raw sea creatures-one handroll stuffed with rice and seafood could serve as an appetizer on its own. Or feast on the Grand Champion (boxed) Lunch, which includes battered shrimp, vegetable slices, a pair of gyoza dumplings, avocado-centered California rolls, salad, chicken drumettes, soup, rice, and a dessert orange wedge. 7402 Greenville Ave., 987-2333. Moderate.
Kosher
Deco’s By Arthur. With textured aluminum overhangs, a black and purple theme, and a round neon clock, this strictly kosher restaurant is an attractive contemporary diner. You’ll find vast quantities of pizzas, pasta, and baked artichoke bottoms, and a S6.95, heart-healthy, all-you-can-eat buffet of salads, vegetables, and pasta. Among the many dishes, the mushroom soup and smoked salmon pasta are delightful. Several nights a week, jazz and jam sessions entertain the diners. (The restaurant closes for the Sabbath at 2:30 p.m. Friday and reopens at 10:30 a.m. Sunday for brunch.) 1418 Preston-Forest Square, 788-2808. Inexpensive.
Mediterrane
Adelmo’s. Owner Adelmo Banchetti is always on hand to see that the customer is properly looked after. While you are perusing the menu, you might be treated to a platter of pickled cauliflower, carrots, zucchini, and olives with rolls and butter. Try the grilled veal chop, easily a meal for two, marinated in olive oil and herbs, seared on the grill, and served with the bone still in; or the rack of lamb, gently scented with rosemary; or the exquisitely grilled, soft-shell crabs. 4537 Cole Ave., 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Istanbul. With its brick and whitewashed walls and heavy wooden tables, this tiny, comfortable cafe conjures up a Turkish seaside tav-erna, albeit in Inwood Village. The mood is set for a Middle Eastern meal that starts with meze, a platter of assorted cold appetizers accompanied by Raki. an anise-flavored liqueur, or beer. Follow with the Bolu Tavuk, a chicken breast sautéed with unusual herbs in olive oil or the tender and sumptuous marinated swordfish with vegetables. The perfect way to end the meal is with the sweet sekerpare cookies and a cup of thick Turkish coffee. 5450 W. Lovers Ln.,Ste. 222,902-0919. Inexpensive to moderate.
Méditerranée This might just be the most inspired, creative menu in town, and the daily specials soar way beyond special (pray that lobster with Roquefort -whipped potatoes is on the list). The crab-filled corn pancake appetizer, with its mushrooms and sun-dried tomato/lobster/ butter sauce, demonstrates how skillfully executive chef David Holben combines flavors and textures. 18111 Preston Rd., Ste. 120. 447-0066. Moderate.
Sambuca. At the gorgeous new Addison location, deep, inviting booths with animal prints, a high-tech-bar area, and a forest scene mural all create a wild atmosphere that is good for people-watching and enjoying live jazz. Compared to this noise and color, Sambuca’s menu seems almost restrained. To start off a meal, the spinach salad with a sun-dried cherry vinaigrette and the appetizer pizzas gel: high marks. For the main course, die specials seem more assertively flavored than the regular menu items. For dessert, dive into the rich Romana Sambuca cake, which is drenched with anise-flavored liqueur. 15207 Addison Rd., Addison, 385-8455. Moderate.
Vincent’s Home Cooking. Mediterranean specialties such as dolmades, hummus, and baba gbanoush share equal space on the buffet table with salads and a variety of meats. Plus, don’t forget a slice of the homemade bread. The feast, which includes a selection of desserts such as chocolate cream pie, costs as little as $195.2574 Walnut Hill Ln., 351 -1860. Moderate.
Mexican
Cantina Laredo. Skip the wimpish, disappointing guacamole salad, and save your appetite for the Guadalajara plate, loaded with cheese enchiladas, a chunky tamale, tacos al carbon, pico de gallo, and a decent dollop of guac. Speaking of green, the spinach enchiladas here are for the real spinach lover; the leaves retain some of their crunchy integrity, spared the thermonuclear zapping the dish receives at most places. Add good chips, sauce that belongs in the Tex-Mex Hall of Fame, friendly service, strolling mariachis, mar-gariras with a pleasant sting, and you have just had a good time, 8121 WalnutHillLn.,987-9192. Inexpensive.
Casa Rosa. Traditional Mexican dishes are offered, but so are dishes that put a California-type spin on classic Mexican by adding things like goat cheese, wild mushrooms, and mesquite-grilled red snapper. The interior appeals with its giant murals, spot-lighted plants, and a muted, comforting decor. The peppery salsa and thin, crisp tortilla chips awaken appetites, and (lawless service moves meals along smoothly. Nicely grilled meat stars in the tacos al carbon, and chicken enchiladas come packed with shredded meat and topped with a subtly smoky red sauce. Good, creamy flan stars for dessert, although “topped with fresh fruit” is a stretch for the lone, 1 fanned strawberry. 165 Inwood Village, 350-5227, Inexpensive.
Chuy’s. Separate yourself from the roar of the crowd, and pay attention to the food and intelligent service-this is Tex-Mex with a healthy attitude. Charros, lightly spiced beans sans fat, offer a happy alternative to the refried standard here- and even that’s thoughtfully cooked with canola oil instead of lard. Fine, thin tostadas are grease-less; salsas carry fresh, addictive bite. House-spe-cial enchiladas feature blue corn tortillas stacked with big bites of smoky grilled chicken in a tart green tomatillo sauce; grilled chicken and cheese take on spirited tang with a more delicate tomatil- lo sauce made with herbs, sour cream, and spices. And a prime starter before all this is rajas con queso-chiles and onions bathed in a nippy white cream cheese sauce, thin but hauntingly rich in flavor. 4544 McKinney Ave., 559-2489. Inexpensive to moderate.
Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Start by dipping chips into the warm, piquant green salsa, wash it down with handmade margaritas, then opt for tart, fresh ceviche while you ponder: Barra de Navidad. enormous fresh shrimp sautéed in dia-blo sauce (coffee, orange juice, tomato), or delicate Snapper Mojo de Ajo in garlic and lime, or mouthwatering Filete con Champinones (steak with mushrooms and brandy)?” Decisions, decisions. 4912 Cole Ave-, 521-4211. Moderate.
La Calle Doce. Take a charming old Oak Cliff house, add a dash of restoration, stir in a smattering of family photos, cover with family start and management, and you’ve got La Calle Doce, known for its outstanding ceviche; good, stout margaritas: and some of the best seafood around. The herb-marinated grilled catfish, served whole on a bed of Spanish-style rice with plenty of vegetables, can convert the most strident “catfish-is-so-ugly” snob. Owners Oscar and Laura Sanchez, along with Laura’s sister Alma, are ready to answer all questions and make informed recommendations. 415 W, 12th St., 943-4304. Inexpensive.
Monica’s Aca Y Alla. Her ads say she’s not beautiful, but Monica sure knows how to cook. She does, she does-and never a dull cliché on the plate. Her tortilla soup’s a miracle of textures and flavors that shames tonier places with its crisp tortilla ribbons and rainbow-pretty passel of vegetables. The salad that comes with it at lunch is all perky mixed greens, brightened with lime-dill vinaigrette. Pan-tried catfish is soulfully tender (if regrettably cursed with thread-thin bones) in garlic butter lime sauce. And the brown rice risotto in mild chipotle sauce strikes a neat chord in harmony with sautéed shrimp. The key lime cheesecake is a favorite, the house flan is a lively gingered chocolate. Don’t look for the mundane hens-this is one of Deep Ellum’s prime health-conscious, people-watching spots, even at noon on weekdays. Live music, dance rhythms as spicy as the food, is featured on Friday and Sunday nights. 2914 Main St., 748-7140. Moderate.
Piano Tortilla Factory & Cafe. Not exactly around the corner, not much atmosphere, and no alcohol served, but this little authentic Mexican joint will have you eating to the belt-loosening stage. Your best game plan: Arrive after 11 a.m., when your meal (dine-in only) will start with free, fresh corn-lasting chips, spicy salsa, guacamole, and pico de gallo. Buttery tasting chicken quesadil-las, stewed pork-filled taquitos, and a split com tortilla stuffed with inch-thick cubes of tender chicken team up nicely for a generous à la carte meal that would satisfy any linebacker, and would still leave enough from a 10-spot to pay for dessert and a drink. Combination plates, complete with rice and beans, average about $5. Stop by the bakery case on the way out, but skip the so-so cmpanadas in favor of a bag of aromatic cinnamon cookies. Make sure to take home a copy of the menu-this place does big take-out business. 1009 E. 18th St., Piano, 423-6980. Inexpensive.
Middle Eastern
Ali Baba. Bring your family here for exceedingly low prices, abundant portions, and authentic Middle Eastern cuisine, Start off with the maza plate, a traditional sampler of hummus, baba ghanoush, grilled eggplant, and tabouleh. a parsley, lemon juice, tomato, and wheat salad. Then try the falafels, deep-fried chick peas and sesame seeds in a yogurt sauce; kibi, deep-fried cracked wheat and beef; or grilled shish Tawook, spicy chicken cubes with smoky rice and vermicelli. 1905 Greenville Ave,, 823-8235. Inexpensive.
Natural/Health
Dream Cafe. Dallas’ most accessible organic breakfast spot, Dream Cafe un apologetically offers ultra-hip “90s-style breakfasts, complete with superb joe, warming the hearts of artsy advertising types and button-down bankers alike. Black bean and rice luncheons and alfresco din-ner-fests (Monday night specials include kid entertainment} should delight fastidious health-conscious types. The ambitious menu occasionally lives up to its glorious nouvelle descriptions (“Mystic Pasta, grilled chicken Brie, caramelized onions” and so forth); try daily specials for best bets. 2800 Routh St.. 954-0486. Moderate.
New American
Anzu. This is the kind of place where no one will share appetizers-they’re too good. But Anzu’s entrees are as delightful as its starters; every bite brings a heady thrill of pleasure to the tongue. Teriyaki grilled portobello mushroom was a huge, marinated single cap, meaty as steak, sliced for chopstick convenience, and strewn with slivers of vinaigrette-zipped tomato and leek. Asian influences abound in Anzu’s self-styled “New American” menu and decor, from the origami birds fluttering from the ceiling to the sake warmed to just the right temperature. 4620 Mc-Kinney Ave., 526-7398. Moderate.
Beau Nash. The restaurant’s trademark grilled corn and smoked chicken soup turned out to be merely another take on the ubiquitous tortilla cliché, albeit a virtuously fat-free version. Pumpkin-brandy cheesecake was a rather too-solid ball thickly encrusted with shaved almonds-for the sake of a novel appearance, we suppose, at the delicate texture’s expense. Other presentations, though, were pretty without being contrived-grilled asparagus fanned beautifully under shiitake mushroom slices with peppered goat cheese; anger hair pasta lay heaped with lump crab meat and diced tomato on a wash of basil coulis. Creative pizzas (try steak), sandwiches (try lobster), and entrées all speak with the lively Asian accents we’re currently calling fusion. The Hotel Crescent Court setting is splendidly casual; the service manages to charm without being chatty. 400 Crescent Ct., 871-3240. Moderate.
Cafe Sierra. This casual, unpretentious restaurant offers dishes that combine Italian, Spanish, Greek, and Middle Eastern cuisines with Southwestern accents. Smoked chicken que-sadillas, for instance, hold Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese, chicken, and roma tomato and are served with pico de gallo and sour cream. In potato leek soup, the potatoes were new and chunky; and a house salad introduced romaine and Boston lettuces to a delicate artichoke heart and sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. About the most exotic dish on the menu is a portobello mushroom and zucchini sandwich prilled on rosemary focaccia bread with provolone spread, wild greens, and a sliced tomato. Happy tartness comes through in prosciutto-studded linguine and in moist grilled swordfish spiked with bearts-of-palm vinaigrette on a bed of seasoned couscous. A trio of marinated pork chops dripping in their brown-grilled juices would be comfort food anywhere. For dessert, a country tart with three types of berries in a flaky crust looked as good as it tasted, and the chocolate layer cake was a beautiful wedge of dark-brown sin. 2900 Greenville Ave., 827-1813. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Cafe. Here’s what’s in store: Complimentary marinated vegetables and olives at each table, excellent service, white tablecloths-and an exhibition kitchen featuring chef Katie Schma’s innovative dishes, like escolar-similar to halibut but juicier and tastier-served vertically with eumin-crusted stacked filets sitting on Spanish-style rice flecked with tomatoes and onions, topped with fried onion shreds, and surrounded by drizzled sauces of smoked plum and cilantro-spiked mango. And brother Doug Schma makes chocolate Kahlua cake: layers of meringue and butter-cream… mmm. 5757 W. Lovers Ln., 351-223}. Moderate.
Dakota’s. The outdoor patio here, with its five-tiered waterfall and hundreds of tiny white bulbs, is one of the most romantic spots in town. Sample appetizers like smoky grilled portobello mushrooms, tiny, delicate crab cakes, and smoked chicken quesadillas; revel in soups like smoked chicken chowder; and try not to become addicted to the lamb chops, served with pots of mint jelly, feta cheese vinaigrette, and angel-hair pasta. But, whatever you do, save room for the homemade desserts-cheesecake, “ooey-gooey” brownies, and the divine, sweet-tart Key lime pie. 600 N. Akard St., 740-4001. Moderate.
Landmark Restaurant. Ensconced in the mellow confines of the grand Melrose Hotel is a piquant treat: the “New World” cuisine of the Landmark Restaurant. Influences of the Far East are evident in such creations as “pressed sushi” with datkon and beet confetti salad. It’s lovely, with rounds of firm fish sided with crisp, white radish and scarlet beet, but be warned-the dish is incendiary, even the rice. The spicy presence, though assertive, is just right in masterpieces like the grilled rack of iamb. In the Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 521-5151. Moderate to expensive.
Laurels. Everything about this lofty restaurant- atop a North Dallas hotel-does more than just look good. The space is lavish, the view is spectacular, and the New American cuisine is dazzling. A recently introduced prix fixe menu melds North and South American foods in a selection of health-aware appetizers, entrées, and desserts labeled with their calorie and fat contents for $49.50, including wine, beer, or soft drinks, and coffee, Or try entrées like the mixed grill-ante-lope, lamb, and quail, all splendidly set out on a sun-dried cherry sauce and gilded with pear-jalapeno chutney. In the Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr.’, 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Dean Fearing, along with Stephan Pyles and several others, perfected the New Southwest cuisine by introducing surprising ingredients and novel interpretations into such simple dishes as salsas. enchiladas, and marinades. Tortilla soup-chicken broth, a touch of tomatoes and onions, topped with toasted shredded tortillas and cheddar cheese-is justifiably famous. Or try the lobster taco, a soft flour taco filled with luscious lobster meat and runny white cheese, a subtle and delicious treat. And, of course, you’ll enjoy the superlative service-captains and sommeliers materialize from the mar-blework, and flutes of premium champagne wash away your cares. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 559-2100. Expensive.
Nana Grill. The hotel’s name may have changed, but people-watching in the Wyndham Anatole Hotel lobby won’t-sheiks and secretaries, politicians and potentates, conventioneers and corporate power brokers. But sit in the 27th-floor Nana Grill and you’ll feel you could buy and sell them all-partly because of the altitude, the plush decor, and the staffs polished competence, of course, but also because of chef Scott Blackerby’s cosmopolitan fare-like the ambrosial baked oysters with cilantro pesto, a trademark house favorite. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel tower, 2201 StemmonsFwy.,761-7479. Expensive.
Yellow. Bright yellow awnings shade the windows, yellow accents the interior, and each dish displays a touch of-you guessed it-yellow! Sample such delights as a sesame-crusted seared ahi appetizer, served with a tangle of mixed greens, or honey-spiced cluck with a tamarind plum sauce. But seafood reigns here, and the best entrée might be the corn-crusted halibut with a delicate lemon-grass butter sauce. 2719 McKinney Ave., 871-1772. Expensive.
Seafood
Cafe Pacific. One of the most telling tricks a critic can employ in reviewing a popular restaurant is to walk in alone during a peak-rush lunch hour without a reservation. Frosty receptions, long waits, and/or terrible tables are the punishment for such gaffes at many upscale eateries-but not at Cafe Pacific, where our anonymous gaffette received cherished-guest treatment and wonderfully caring service. Magical food, too-a starter of lime-seasoned ceviche was as tony as the clientele, an extravagance of lobster and shrimp chunks with bay scallops, all bedded on jicama matchsticks and deep-green ribbons of spinach. A day’s special entrée starring Gulf red snapper was even prettier, the fish delicately moist inside a crisp corn-tortilla crust atop a fine, crunchy salsa balancing tart tomatillo and sweet diced pineapple. The too-sweet nubbly crust on a warm apple crisp dessert overwhelmed its firm, fresh fruit filling, but the vanilla bean ice cream that crowned the whole affair helped cut the sweetness, as did bracing espresso. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston Road and Mockingbird Lane, 526-1170. Moderate to expensive.
Daddy Jack’s. Try steamed Manila clams, plump fresh things, their sturdy feet clinging stubbornly to shells, freckled with minced garlic crunch in dippin’-good broth. Savor an entree-sized appetizer of fresh mixed salad greens bedding meaty portobello mushrooms overlapped with ripe peeled tomato slices drizzled with Balsamic vinaigrette. Share a snapper and lobster tail special, sauced with spicy beurre blanc that nips you with warm afterbum-but only with someone you love enough to let him or her nibble at your big baked potato and sweet, barely steamed corn on the cob. One safe bet: Nobody goes home from here hungry. Or feeling neglected, either. 1916 Greenville Ave., 826-4910. Moderate.
Joe’s Crab Shack. This kitsch-filled restaurant, complete with a whale swimming overhead, wants its customers to feel like they’ve paused, mid-scuba dive, for a meal. And it is a bubbly place, with some of the perkiest servers around. Whack the blue crabs with a wooden mallet, dunk the sweet meat in the niched butter, toss the shells in the recessed bucket in the table, and repeat, pausing only for slugs of beer. The crab bisque adds just the right spicy note, and, if your cholesterol level allows it, the crab fingers and fried shrimp can’t be beat. 3855 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 247-1010. Inexpensive to moderate.
LuLu’s Bait Shack. The old Crackers location has been transformed into a ramshackle, faux-bayou hangout serving an array of authentic Cajun cuisine with regional nuances ranging from hot to hotter. Buffalo shrimp are hotsy-totsies nicely balanced in a blue cheese dip, jambalaya carries a major kick, and then you add the bouse condiments^-Ass in the Tub hot sauce, Hellfire and Damnation habanero brew, and Al’s Louisiana Chow-Chow. For tamer tongues, try the Chicken Rockafella with oysters, cheese, and spinach. Homey mashed Mardi Gras pasta is a mixture of fresh vegetables with capers and sun-dried tomatoes, while a lunch trip’s oyster po-boy proved a happy marriage of corn meal-battered oysters with tomato, lettuce, and mayo, die plate fetch -ingly sprinkled with paprika. One warning: The house drink is a 96-ounce fishbowl containing various types of alcohol, sewed with a plastic alligator and several straws. Share with your friends, or the bon temps may roulez all over your head. 2621 McKinney Ave., 969-1927. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mainstream Fish House. The name, smacking of inoffensive blandness, is deceiving: These people know food. Bread pot shrimp-a hollowed out loaf of sourdough filled with the sautéed sea creatures-and creamy crab cakes are not to be missed. Go for the daily specials-a good Canadian salmon for $12.95 or chargrilled tuna at $11.95 with two side orders. Key lime pie provides the perfect ending to a pleasant meal. Preston Forest Shopping Center, 11661 Preston Rd., Ste. 153, 739-3474. Moderate.
Newport’s. Entering Newport’s in the West End’s historic brewery building, with its tables set on semicircular rings leading toward a seemingly bottomless pit, seems at first like descending into Dante’s Inferno. But the food is heavenly New England clam chowder was rich, creamy, and delicious. Mesquite grilled Maine lobster was so meaty, moist, succulent, and filled with coral or roe that we ate almost everything but the gills. For dessert try the Kahlua Nest. 703 McKinney Ave., 9540221). Moderate.
Remington’s Seafood Grill. Currently in its teens, Remington’s is considered an old-timer on the Belt Line Restaurant Row. Reasonable prices, simply prepared food, and reliable service are some of the reasons why. But, while the wood-brass-glass interior of the restaurant is much easier on the eyes than its drab exterior would lead you to expect, it’s time for a few renovations. like new carpeting and a ceiling facelift. Likewise, the menu has its highs and lows. Crab cakes are nicely meaty, teamed well with fresh chopped slaw and skin on fries. However, scoops of margarine, not butter, accompany the baskets of good bread and the baked potatoes, which are further insulted by being served with scallions instead of the promised chives. Skip the clam chowder in favor of the sprightly Caesar, and be sure to order the tiniest, tastiest dessert around, the $1.39 sundae-a mini-scoop of vanilla ice cream awash in caramel and fudge sauces, topped with chopped Hershey’s kisses. 4580 Belt Line Rd., 386-0122. Moderate.
The Roaring Fork. Restaurateurs Phil and Janet Cobb, savvy masters at creating first-class impact, have unveiled a restaurant as intriguing as its odd name. Fresh seafood, flown in daily, receives major emphasis here, from Blue Point and Malpeque oysters, divine in their briny liquor, to an Alaskan crab claw that made us wonder why-some seafood is cooked at all. Worth the trip, alone, was the signature appetizer called Duck Cigars-Asian egg rolls holding braised duck leg meat spiked with jalapeno and cilantro. A crawfish cake was less memorable, bur crisp-skinned. Maytag blue cheese enlivened a wonderful salad with fanned pear slices and gave zip to the grits that came with the half-split, double pork chop and apple fritters. The nearest we came to disappointment was with the veal tenderloin that arrived as slightly overcooked medallions; the wild mushrooms in a brandied cream sauce overwhelmed the veal’s delicate flavor. However, the succulent swordfish steak coated with a horseradish crust found the perfect partners in its mustard cream sauce and wild rice cake. 14866 Mont fort Dr., 387-3675. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. The in tenor is cool pale yellow and white, though the mostly fried food is not as light as the atmosphere. We suggest you skip the shrimp dip and go straight for the fresh oysters on the half shell. The menu does offer a few selections of broiled fish, but we recommend the fried oysters with French fries and hush-puppies for a rare treat in these low-fat times. Finally, cleanse your palate with a refreshing piece of lemon pie. 2701 McKinney Ave., 880-0111. Moderate.
See Grill. Chef Andy Tun’s Thai roots put an Asian-American spin on classic seafood dishes like mussels in lemongrass broth, and smoked salmon appetizer with capers, caviar, dill, horseradish, and toasted pumpernickel. At night, with soft lighting, Harry Connick Jr. in the background, and a bottle from the nicely priced wine list, you might even forget you’re next door to a Fuddrucker’s and a Ming Garden. 2205 N. Central Expy., Ste. 180, Piano, 509-5542, Moderate.
Southwestern
Lavaca Cantina. The cantina sits with three other restaurants in the entertainment-restaurant-bar complex known as Pepper Square. The menu offers cowboy chow-grilled food, Mexican specialties, and lots of stuff for snacking. The best thing we tried was the jerk chicken and Key lime mustard slaw sandwich. The fun-filled cantina steals the show at happy hour, when 26 types of tequila draw some serious attention and the appetizer list gets a workout, If you’re going just for the food, lunch is a belter deal. 14902 Preston Rd? Ste. 700 in Pepper Square, 458-0458. Moderate.
Loma Luna Cafe. Muted, soft earth tones, subtle lighting, and good art provide a tranquil setting for meals that start with hot chips and two assertively spicy salsas. The Botanas Platter, a generous assortment of appetizers, also zings the taste buds. Entrées, though, can be curiously bland, as though made by a different chef altogether. Silky flan and honey-drizzled Navajo fry bread ends the meal on a sweet note. Brunch, offered on both Saturdays and Sundays, is a $10.95 bargain, and offers a welcome change of pace-eggs scrambled with smoked mushrooms, onions, and poblano peppers. Most entrées come with home tries and beans, and you’ll also be served blue corn muffins, a fruit cup, a bottomless glass of champagne, and coffee. 8201 Preston Rd., Ste. 100, 691 1552. Inexpensive.
Star Canyon. Chef Stephan Pyles, one of the founders of Southwestern cuisine, is now in his “new Texas” phase: Santiago Pena door handles, rawhide banquettes, hook ’em horns sconces, chuck wagon murals-and dish after dish combining native Texas fare with intricate. unexpected, and exotic flavors: tamale tart, much like a quiche, mildly seasoned with garlic and lump crabmeat; lean, cilantro-cured venison sliced thin, arranged in a fan; and the ever-popular Cowboy ribeye steak, bone-in Angus beef delectably singed over hickory liames, 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 520-7827. Moderate to expensive.
Spanish
Macho’s Chimney Cafe And Bar. Owners Nestor and Chris Macho are trying to make their restaurant all things to all people-at lunch, pasta, salads, and soups attract the ladies; at dinner, the Cuban and Spanish dishes interest younger timers; and at Sunday brunch, the disparate assortment of Cuban, American, Italian, and Spanish fare draws the after-church crowd. Our response was accordingly mixed. Of the Cuban and Spanish offerings, we recommend the empa-nadas, pockets of dough filled with beef, olives, and raisins served with cranberry and jalapeno dipping sauces; the sweet and flavorsome plantains sautéed in butter; and the shrimp sautéed in a coconut batter and bathed in coconut milk. On a lunch visit, an artichoke unpleasantly doused in bread crumbs was sent back. The $8,95 brunch was also disappointing. The dishes suffered from sitting out on warming trays for too long, and the selections seem incongruous. 97I9 N. Central Expy., 369-6466. Inexpensive to moderate.
Steakhouses
Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. You need to pace your appetite in this comfortable neighborhood steakhouse, where chef-owner Richard Chamberlain often pops out of the kitchen to greet his customers. The perky garlicky aioli, spread on airy, lightly crispy rolls, can cause you to empty the breadbasket, but save room for the blade bean soup, ail intense, smoky bowl of pureed magic. The crisp deviled crab cakes, in their subtle mustard sauce, can also start a meal in fine style. As tender and juicy as the lamb chops are, beef is the reason to visit Chamberlain’s, and prime rib heads the roster of favorites. Horseradish-whipped mashed potatoes star on the list of side dishes, although the fresh, bacon-laced corn casserole finishes a close second. Desserts, while respectable, don’t reach die same heights as the food dial precedes them. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 934-2467. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. Ibis is a “he-man” of a restaurant, complete with a bustling bar of regulars slapping each other on the back, The wine list is huge, filled mainly with lots of expense-account bottles, but bargains can be found among them. (The wines available by the glass seem to be a pitiful afterthought.) The menu is just what you’d expect, with lots of meat and side dishes, lobster, and a token fish of the day. The two prime cuts, a ribeye and a strip, are the best steaks on the menu, and they’re rich in flavor and perfectly cooked. Service is fast-paced unless you request otherwise. 5251 Spring Valley Rd., 490-9000. Expensive.
Kirby’s Steakhouse. The return of the old Greenville favorite is apparently pleasing a wide range of diners: clientele includes dating teenagers, families with kids, and nostalgic past patrons. While the born-again Kirby’s is under new ownership, the clubby, comfortable restaurant relies heavily on recipes from the past; Steaks are cooked to perfection and have a hint of die forbidden flavor of fat. The new menu reflects ’90s notions with pasta, chicken, and seafood. The fried okra appetizer just may be the best in town. 3525 Greenville Ave., 821-2122. Moderate to expensive.
Morton’s of Chicago. If you’re an unrepentant carnivore who just doesn’t care thai huge slabs of juicy red ribeye steak and chops of veal aren’t chic any more, Morton’s is for you-and your more nutritionally correct family and friends can enjoy lobster, shrimp, or chicken as well as simply prepared fresh fish. Understatement reigns here, from dark wood to etched glass, starched white linens, and muted Sinatra, and there are more than 30 martini varieties. 501 Elm St., 741-2277. Expensive.
The Palm. Imported during Dallas’ roaring ’80s. The Palm has handily held its own. The insouciant service and lack of cushiony frills bespeak a brawling, brassy, particularly Texan attitude, and the food, from lamb to linguine, veal to seafood, vegetable sides to salads-and unforgettable steaks and lobster-is superb. This New York import flatters its clientele-political figures, business executives, and VIPs-by splashing their colorful caricatures all over its walls. 701 Ross Ave.. 698-0470. Expensive.
Paul’s Porterhouse. Expect the unexpected at Paul’s. Outside, you’d peg ii for ;i $7.99 all-you-can-eat beef joint, Inside, you’ll see otherwise, as you check out the Remington sculptures, lofty menu prices, and a knock-out of a wine list ( Wine Spectator just gave it one of the six “Awards of Excellence” in Dallas). Other surprises quickly follow, like grand wheels of mild cheddar at each table, and maybe a complimentary bowl of quail soup or dessert (if Paul’s around and in a good mood). Prime beef (including a 28-ounce porterhouse) shares the menu with plenty of seafood items as well as deer, elk, ostrich, pheasant, and rabbit. 10960 Composite Dr., 357-0279. Expensive.
Stone Trail. The decor of polished wood, gleaming silver, and long-stemmed yellow roses is welcoming, as is the soft, soothing music and coddling service. (Our waiter was so nice, we didn’t even mention that he brought us a ’92 Trefethen instead of the’91 we requested.) The creative appetizer list included a crab cake combining a wealth of lump crab meat with zestful chile, served with a tangle of vegetables; catfish with green apple tartar sauce; and grilled goat cheese in grape leaves. The rest of the menu bears more typical steakhouse fare, including lobster and an astonishingly pricey free-range chicken. Beef, crusty and juicy, makes the best entrée with cheese-rich potato casserole or chile-jazzed whipped potatoes on the side. At lunch. Stone Trail serves a wonderful quesadil-la that we’ll put up against any in town. Desserts change daily, but your best choice after dinner may be a drink or cappuccino in the beautiful knockout of a bar, where a jazz singer will entertain you. 14833 Midway Rd., 701-9600. Moderate to expensive.
Texas Land & Cattle Company. Night or day, this place jumps, and it has carved out its own Dallas niche with popular entrées liked smoked sirloin. mesquite grilled trout, and fried pickles. Meals begin with loaves of sourdough bread and a bucket of shell-on peanuts-plain or roof-of-your-mouth-burning spicy. The shrimp cocktail, Caesar, and house salads are good starts. Then dive into the star attraction-meat. These thick slices of tender beef pair nicely with the heavenly skin-on homemade mashed potatoes, rich with garlic and pepper. But there are plenty of other choices from mesquite grilled shrimp to camp-fire chili. Don’t hesitate to fill up on the steak and potatoes, because none of the desserts are worth the calories, so far. 3130 Lemmon Ave.. 526-4664. Moderate.
Thai
Chow Thai. This striking restaurant-with an eclectic atmosphere that includes lozenge-shaped lighting and light wooden chairs- amazes both the eyes and the mouth. The restaurant’s cooks and owner, who are from Bangkok, offer their customers authentic Thai fare with some exciting original dishes such as the Chow Thai duck, marinated in an exotic honey sauce, and yum pla muk. calamari served in a bed of fresh vegetables. If you choose items from the hotter side of the menu, cool off with Thai tea, a special blend with soy milk that is extremely soothing. Don’t let courteous, young waiters steer you away from the more exotic dishes. 5290 Belt Line Rd.. Ste. 144, 960-2999, Moderate.
Toy’s Cafe. Previously known as Thai Toy, this place specializes in vegetarian and seafood dishes, and is a good spot for informal, wholesome, and inexpensive eating. Don’t miss Toy’s mee grob, pinkish rice noodles studded with stallions and cilantro, deep-fried in a non-cloying sweet-and-sour sauce; or the deep-fried marinated shrimp fingers wrapped in rice paper. Soups, which feed two to four, are among Toy’s strongest suits. Scrumptious main courses begin with broad, soft, fresh rice noodles stir-fried with tofu, shrimp, or crab. Cash only. 4422 B Lemmon Ave.. 528-7233. Inexpensive.
Tuppee Tong. Although you can order the food with the heat toned down, don’t. You’ll miss the punch of the peanut sauce that comes with the satays (appetizers of skewered chicken, meat, or shrimp) and the kick of the red curry chicken (made daily from home-grown spices}. Balance the heat with a Thai salad of carrot, cucumber, and radish slivers in sweetened vinegar, and try one of the eight or so soups offered here in three sizes. Tuppee Tong translates as “big golden spoon,” so keep in mind that portions are large. And, even better, prices are low. The Village at Collin Creek, 621 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 247, Piano, 509-7979. Inexpensive.
Tarrant County
Angelo’s Barbecue. Simply put, still Texas’ best barbecue. This legend has no feet of clay-and sadly, no sawdust on the floor. It’s been gone for years, thanks to the Health Department, but the ambience, [lie casual friendliness, and most importantly, the barbecue, remains. No frills here, just the basic best-tender beef and pork ribs, great sliced and chopped beef sandwiches. There’s also beer, beans, coleslaw, chips, pickles, peppers-all the tiadidonal extras. Near downtown, it’s a favorite hangout for attorneys, cowboys, cops, mechanics, and business men and women, as well as families, Children abound. They take checks, but no credit cards. Beef and rib plates are served after 3:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. 2533 White Settlement Rd.. Fort Worth, 817-332-0357. Inexpensive.
Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. Probably the Fort Worth restaurant best known to Dallasites, Joe T.’s is an excellent example of mythology winning out over reality, Fort Worthers lake their out-of-town guests here if they insist, but there is much better Mexican food to be had in Fort Worth (Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Bakery on North Main comes to mind.) However, if it’s atmosphere you want for a big party, Joe T.’s does an excellent job of feeding large groups decent food in record time, and they do it in fun, and even beautiful, settings. Mariachi players stroll among the diners and will take requests, On a nice spring night, Joe T.’s patio can’t be beat-it’s one of Fort Worth’s best outside dining experiences. Food is served family style and it rarely varies. Solid and dependable. Cash and local checks only. 2201 N. Commerce St.. Fort Worth, 817-626-4356. Moderate.
Rickshaw Chinese Restaurant. No wonder Fort Worth’s East Siders have been keeping this a secret, This tiny restaurant tucked into a strip shopping center near Nolan High School on the city’s East Side is nothing fancy, but the food is invariably tasty, well -prepared, and nicely served.
Show up more than twice and they most likely will not only remember your name, but also your favorite order. You can’t go wrong with [he house specials, the best of which is the Double Delight. made with shrimp in a white sauce and pork in a hoi black bean sauce that will indeed delight Texas palates seasoned on spicy Tex-Mex. They also make the best hot and sour soup in Fort Worth. No overheated buffet here; food is prepared fresh when you order, and it shows. Lunches are varied and quick, but go for dinner so you’ll have more time to savor the rich flavors. 1229 Wood Haven Blvd., Fort Worth, 817-496-6767. Inexpensive to moderate.
Uno’s Pizzeria, Chicago Bar & Grill. The downtown Fort Worth location, next door to die Sundance AMC movie theater in lively Sundance Square, makes it easy to forget Uno’s is part of a chain, Deep dish pizzas are the specialty. Uno not only offers the traditional sausage, pepperoni. etc., but also some interesting twists on die traditional ingredients-such as a spinach and mozzarella cheese combo, and an eggplant and artichoke mix. For those with less hearty appetites, they offer plizzettas, thin-crust pizzas for one including a vegetarian version and a lemon-lime chicken with cilantro. The Caesar salad is excellent, with anchovies offered on request. Their pasta is al dente, the sandwiches are generous, and there’s enough variety on the menu to satisfy even the non-Italian food lovers. Lunches are good and quick, to satisfy the downtown business crowd, and the bar is well-stocked, to please die happy hour crowd. (The wine list features one of Orvieto’s wonderful white wines, something not seen just everywhere. ) Uno is family-friendly, with a kids’ menu designed to please kids, not moms. Wickedly delicious desserts range from a traditional but tasty hot apple pie with ice cream to a Brownie Bowl, which is exactly what it sounds like-a bowl full of brownie, ice cream, and hot fudge. Can’t decide? Just close your eyes and put your finger anywhere on the dessert menu. 300 Houston St., Fort Worth, 817-885-8667. Moderate.
Water Street Seafood Company. This seafood restaurant’s been around for several years, but now finds itself smack dab in the middle of what has become University Park. Fort Worth’s hottest new shopping area. With Barnes and Noble, the Pottery Barn, and a Starbucks among its new neighbors, regular customers worried that Water Street might go all trendy on us. But not to feat. The tastefully bare-bones decor, the wonderfully wacky wall mural behind the bar (featuring a cowboy riding a bucking fish}, the daily specials, and the solidly good food have remained the same. The only sign of change is a new dining room to the south of the main room. The wait people are friendly-they never do quite cany off the “Hi, I’m Chip* attitude-and usually quite knowledgeable about the menu. The specials change daily, always featuring some mesquite-grilled or blackened offerings, but any fish offered on special can be prepared any way the customer likes. The fish is consistently fresh, the wine list is nice, and the desserts are to die for, especially the chocolate brownie. And with the new dining space, there’s a wait only at peak hours. Near die TCU campus. 1540 S. University Dr., Fort Worth. 817-877-I474. Moderate to expensive.
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