Barbecue
Red, Hot & Blue. This restaurant promises Memphis blues and red-hot barbecue, and it delivers. Go tor the “wet” smoked pork ribs and add the dry seasoning that’s at every table, but beware of the bllsteringly hot’ hoochie-koochie” sauce on the table, The baked beans, with green pepper and onion, were tangy but the cote slaw was Wand; we wondered if someone forgot the dressing. New potato salad, however, was chunky and firm with the right mix of egg and seasoning. 9810 N, Central Expwy. at Walnut Hill Lane. Ste. 600, 368-RI6S or fax 373-FAXS for orders to go. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s. The basic barbecue sandwich plate remains as fresh and new as the day the late Sonny first lit the Are in the barbecue pit: tender, flavorful meat piled on a soft bun. accompanied by wondrously spicy sauce, smoky beans, and cole slaw with a hint of tartness. The onion rings are to be treasured, a crusty shell around a soft, piping hot. sweet onion. The food may be as good at the new locations, but like an old hometown, the gritty ambience of the original must be visited from time to time. 2202 Inwood Rd., 357-7120; and other locations- Inexpensive.
Brewpubs
Copper Tank Brewery. Deep Ellum’s first brewpub, which has one door on Commerce and another on Main, boasts the longest bar in Dallas, and we don’t doubt it. Every time we asked our waitress for something-beer, water, more beer, pizza, more pizza-she seemed to vanish into another time zone before languidly returning with our request. Our beer choices proved to be a mixed lot-a flaccid ESB, a zingy raspberry, a decent brown ale-that on the whole didn’t live up to the excellent pesto-coated pizzas. Perhaps competition (at lea;.t two more brewpubs are said to be bound for Deep Ellum) will light a fire under this sleepy crew. 2600 Main St.. 744-2739. Inexpensive.
Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen. 1701 N. Market St., 651-0808. Moderate.
The Rock Bottom Brewery.
4050 Belt Line Rd., West Addison. 404-7456. Moderate.
Routh Street Brewery and Grill. For starters, try the musky, rich mushroom soup and a heaping bowl of buttery ale-steamed mussels. Fried fish and chips were hearty and crisp and the Wiener schnitzel is huge and délectable. A hickory-grilled half cncken was to swoon over, accompanied by horseradish-scented whipped potatoes and a rosy pear-and-red cabbage mélange. The beer is also noteworthy. Try the sampler of five two-ounce servings that will help you settle on one to drink with your dinner. The desserts, however, were disappointing-the spiced apple strudel’s crust has a toughness reminiscent of microwaved pastries. 3011 Routh St., 922-8835. Moderate.Two Rows Restaurant & Brewery. 5500 Greenville Ave., Ste. 1300. 696-2739. Moderate.Yegua Creek Brewing Co. You may come for the beer, but you’ll come back for the food. The pheasant quesadillas easily win Bar Food Hall of Fame status. To quench your thirst, try the Icehouse Pale Ale and the White Rock Red. 2920 N. Henderson Ave., 824-BREW. Inexpensive.
Burgers/Casual
Chip’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers. You loved it on Central. You’ll love it on Cole. Chip’s award-winning burgers are as good as ever served at the new location in the turn-of-the-century structure that was built as a Baptist church. The classic hamburger is a messy, delicious concoction, Seasoned fries, chicken sandwiches, grilled cheese, and salads are good, simple-if fattening-fare. 4501 Cole Ave., 526-1092. Inexpensive.
Mac’s Bar & Grill. 2301 N Central Expwy., Piano, 881-2804. Inexpensive to moderate.
Snuffer’s. Every so often someone publishes the number of fat grams in a serving of Snuffer’s cheese fries, and we all pretend to be shocked-shocked !-and swear never again to let those straight-from-Satan munchies pass our lips. But inevitably we give in. Snuffer’s has a limited menu, but it’s hard to go wrong with burgers, the chicken sandwich, or the chicken Caesar salad. Go early on weekend nights, as the crowds build quickly. 3526 Greenville Ave., 826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd., Addison, 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Cajun/Creole
Café Margaux. Crestpark Hotel, 4242 Lomo Alto Dr., 520-1985. Moderate to expensive.
Copeland’s of New Orleans. 5353 Belt Line Rd.. 661-1883. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. Don’t come for the decor, with its brick walls, wobbly tables, and neon signs; or for the service; Each member of the staff gamely attempts to handle two or three times a normal load. But seafood gumbo, a wealth of a meal in a bowl, is reason enough to become a regular; pair it with half of a po-boy, and you’re set for the day. (Steer clear of the po-boys featuring roast beef, though; this tough, stringy beef tastes like Mom’s overcooked pot roast). The classic New Orleans muffaletta sandwich, slathered with a tangy olive dressing that zips up the meats and cheeses, travels well-a perfect foil to airline food or something to take home for dinner. Sample those New Orleans-style doughnuts, beignets, before you leave, though-they’re best hot. 2615 Commerce St., 745-1900. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Lone Star Oyster Bar. There are restaurants for all seasons, and this is a summer place. Bring together raw oysters, big schooners of cold beer, hot days, and excellent background music (e.g. Springsteen’s “Thunder Road”) and the result is that pleasant manana spirit that seems to pervade certain Greenville spots. While we don’t fear Galveston Bay oysters, some do. (“I’m watching my mercury,” quipped one of our party as he declined a mollusk.) The cautious can opt for the tasty (though rather skimpy) blackened catfish or halibut, or the decent fried shrimp. Don’t miss the hush puppies, perfectly deep-fried with a hint of onion. We could have used some crispier crackers for the oysters, and we question the authenticity of the mounted sailfish on the walls (OK, maybe we’re jealous), but everything else is the real thing. 3707 Greenville Ave., 827-3013. inexpensive.
LuLu’s Bait Shack. The old Crackers location has been transformed into a ramshackle, faux-bayou hangout serving an array of authentic Cajun cuisine with regional nuances ranging from hot to hotter. Buffalo shrimp are hotsy-totsies nicely balanced in a blue cheese dip, and jam-balaya carries a major kick. For tamer tongues, try the Chicken Rockafella with oysters, cheese, and spinach. Homey mashed Mardi Gras pasta is a mixture of fresh vegetables with capers and sun-dried tomatoes, while a lunch trip’s oyster po-boy proved a happy marriage of corn meal-battered oysters with tomato, lettuce, and mayo, the plate fetchingly sprinkled with paprika. One warning: The house drink is a 96-ounce fishbowl containing various types of alcohol, served with a plastic alligator and several straws. Share with friends, or the bon temps may roulez all over your head. 2621 McKinney Ave., 969-1927. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chinese
Cathy’s Pacific. At this ambitious offshoot of Piano’s Cathy’s Wok, Chinese-American dishes dominate the menu along with “light and healthy” entrées. Appetizers both hit and miss-meaty honey-garlic wings start a meal well, as do skewers of satay chicken, but pot stickers disappoint with their nondescript filling, and beef satays are tough. Seafood dishes are a good bet here, and the single best item might be the Vietnamese bouillabaisse, loaded with savory king crab, plump shrimp, miniature clams, and seaworthy scallops. Cathy’s uses top ingredients, from jumbo nuts in the cashew chicken to the crisply sautéed vegeta-bles in the spring rolls. Note: Food can be ordered mode -ately hot, hot, or extra hot. Go with hot. 5950-A Royal Ln.. 739-3378. Inexpensive to moderate.
May Dragon. Blending Mandarin, Hunan, Cantonese, ami Szechwan-style of ferings. May Dragon serves Chinese ban-quet-style dishes any day of the week. At lunch, try the unusual Ming lettuce rolls, consisting of a large iceberg lettuce bowl lapped with hoisin sauce and filled with minced chicken and vegetables. From the elaborate dinner menu, the Magic Seafood Basket of Maine lobster tail, crab meat, scallops, and shrimp in a knitted noodle basket was beautiful: the crab and lobster were exquisite, though the sherry sauce was surprisingly strong, 4848 Belt Line Rd.. 392-9998. Moderate to expensive.
D REVISITS New Big Wong. This comfortable eat ery is not so “new” anymore; in fact it’s been well over 10 years since Big Wong, lost in a fire was transplanted to Greenville. No matter. If you’re up for a quick and tasty lunch, this place delivers large portions of fare in fast-food time-you’ll be astonished. If a mord leisurely dinner is the object, this complex menu rewards experiment: walnut shrimp, bean curd with crab meat, egg| plant with minced pork in a feisty garlic sauce, and more esoteric offerings. Service is cheerful and language is no barrier; ask and they’ll explain. 2121 S. Greenville Ave.. 821-4198. Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. Peking duck aficionados love the fact that this classic Chinese entrée is available at Szechwan Pavilion anytime, in half or whole portions, without the eus tomary need to call ahead and order it, Tableside, waiters , brush the delicate pancakes with hoisin sauce, then layer on perfectly roasted duck, crispy skin, and wisps of seal-lions, and present the rolled-up treats on a platter ringed with slices of orange. Between bites, you’ll notice lots of regular customers greeting each other in this tranquil, soft-pink setting punctuated with black lacquered chairs. Top-quality ingredients star here, from the fat shrimp in the vegetable-loaded sizzling nee soup to the juicy roast pork in the lo mein. Szechwan beef, marked as spicy, had just the right amount of burn. The ’wonderful shrimp” would be more wonderful if they weren’t coated in a soggy batter, but they sure are big, butterflied beauties. 8411 Preston Rd.. 368-4303. Inexpensive.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line Rd., Ste, 200. Addison. 387-2333. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. When it opened more than 10 years ago, Uncle Tai’s earned massive acclaim, but lately it’s been coasting too much on its reputation. The “two delicacy” cold platter spunkily begins a meal, especially if it teams slivered chicken in an assertive sesame sauce with peppercorn-topped tender prawns, but meals can slide rapidly downhill to candy-sweet “hot, spicy shrimp” and over-tenderized chicken with cashews. Spring rolls start off well, with a greaseless crisp crunch, but the Ailing remains a mystery. The setting, overlooking the wannabes on The Galleria’s ice skating rink, offers more enjoyment than the food does. In The Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 934-9998. Moderate.
Coffeehouses
Java Island. 3020 Legacy Dr.. Ste. 270. Piano, 491-1695.Inexpensive.
Java Jones. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave., 528-2099. Inexpensive.
Deli
Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. 127 Preston Forest Village, 373-3333. Inexpensive.
Street’s. This sandwich shop puts most others to shame. After chomping through most of Street’s menu, one of our favorites is the V.I.P, a turkey, dressing, and cranberry sauce sandwich. Another favorite is the vegetarian number with grilled portobello mushrooms layered with onion, tomatoes, and melted cheese. Two common threads: The bread is good, and the quality of the produce is high. For dessert, the buttery rum cake and carrot cake are especially satisfying. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-2505. Inexpensive.
Eclectic
Deep Ellum Cafe. The menu descriptions here do not do the food justice-the Dagwood sandwich conjures up images of a piled-high sub, but it arrives gooily warm, a gourmet knife-and-fork treat, with an unmentioned side salad (like perfectly ripe fruit salad topped with strawbery puree) that fights for equal attention. Desserts, also nomemade, are so rich that a bite or two suffices, although :he chocolate terrine positioned on a butter-rich caramel sauce can lead you, trance-like, back for a few more bites, This eclectic menu borrows from cuisines all over the globe, and pays plenty of attention to vegetarians. 95001 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 392-0894. Inexpensive to moderate.
East Side Grill. Young professionals and boomers may be attracted to the alternative country style of music featured here, but the food on the brief, but engaging menu is also bringing them in. Chef Tony Knight, whose Aransas Pass restaurant formerly occupied this space, offers down-home dishes endowed with kicky accents that lift them above common bar food, Notable examples: Chicken-fried steak came with terrific twice-baked mashed potatoes and a healthy stir-fry of vegetables. An Aransas burger was a patty of broiled sirloin with roasted poblanos and onions and jack cheese. The 10-ounce strip steak was gilded with onion braised in Jack Daniels sauce. The homemade salsa that accompanies the chicken quesadillas can make your eyes water from 4 feet away and fried pickles were surprisingly delicious in nicely seasoned, greaseless crumb crust. Some popular favorites weren’t available on the nights we visited, but service was sweetly accommodating and the curtained side patio is still one of the most inviting in town. 2916 N. Henderson Ave.. 828-2801. Inexpensive.
8.0 Restaurant and Bar. Head here on any Thursday night to mingle with the standing-room-only, coolest crowd in Dallas. Even the non-hip crowd comes for Sunday brunch, especially for a courtyard seat. Healthful cooking is stressed, but pancakes, chili cheeseburgers, and bacon appear alongside the “workout omelette.” You’ll find large portions and low prices, but 8.0’s goal isn’t to attract epicureans. The “Lava Lamp, ” an 8.0 drink involving jello shots and vodka, has a loyal following, and the blue frozen mar-garitas are nothing but fun in a glass. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Fox and Hound. Although the restaurant calls itself an “English Pub and Grill.” don’t look for toad-in-the-hole here. Despite the silly British names that dot the menu, m’lord will encounter hearty half-pound burgers, steak fries, enormous onion rings, rich beer-cheese soup, pasta, blackened salmon, and prime rib. The beer list offers more than 100 labels both in bottles and on draft. But while the food is good, the service on two visits was extremely slow and Inattentive. 18918 Midway Rd.. 732-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Grape. The interior of The Grape is painted to look mellowly aged, like a wine cellar, and it’s guaranteed to stir up romance. Chef David Burdette toils behind a glass wait, and a huge blackboard displays the day’s menu, specials, and wine by the glass. Whatever you order, start with the mushroom soup-it’s famous, and justifiably so. The menu changes every few days and includes classics like beef tournedos, osso buco, and grilled swordfish. each given a unique Burdette sauce or accompaniment. 2808 Greenville Ave.. 828-1981. Moderate.
Piano Cafe. Not a good start-park in a strip mall, enter Piano Cafe’s lobby where a table offers autographed photos of celebrities, and wait to be seated until the young hostess completes her personal call. Luckily, it’s all uphill from there, starting with the tasty, house-made, lightly crusty rolls and a simply prepared, flavor-packed onion soup. Choose the mixed green salad instead of the Caesar, and opt for the zippy raspberry vinaigrette. A feast of perfectly cooked vegetables accompanies each generous meal, and most people leave loaded with leftovers. Juicy, freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans, and vegetarians will find much to choose from. Two more surprises: a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list. A warm French apple pie (homemade, like everything else here) accompanied by homemade Chambord/Frangelico ice cream, whipped cream, and berries, offers caloric heaven. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 500, Piano, 516-0865, Moderate.
Sipango, Meals start off promisingly at Sipango. where tables are packed with the impossibly young, thin, and trendy. They dip morsels of the excellent fine-crumbed crusty bread in oil and peruse the very thorough wine list. After that, it’s hit or miss, with food that often looks better than it tastes. Sautéed shrimp-corn cakes contain lots of rubbery shrimp and a stray kernel or two of corn: the accompanying lime aioli lacks zip. So does the much-praised Caesar salad’s dressing. The best choices seem to come from the grill or the pizza oven, and a pizza topped with juicy grilled chicken, applewood smoked bacon, and mushrooms nicely combines both. 4513 Travis St., 522-2411. Moderate.
French/Continental
Addison Cafe. The intimate setting, clusters of long-stemmed flowers, and regal service bode well for a night Of amour. Hot crusty rolls and a Salade Victor Hugo, greens topped with juicy grilled chicken, tomatoes, and walnuts, team up for a swell lunch: and a spinach, gruyère, ana sun-dried tomato salad makes a nice segue into dinner. The heaps of vegetables served with the entrées are so beautifully prepared and cooked that it’s tempting to polish them off first. However, you’ll be devoting equal time to the beef tournedos in their intoxicating bordelaise sauce if you’ve been clever enough to order that. Prestonwood Place, 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 991-8824. Moderate.
Calluaud’s Bistro. Long one of Dallas’ most charming French eateries, Calluaud’s now concentrates on casual entrées and tapas, with an occasional “small bite” from the restaurant’s previous, skillfully executed, traditional French menu. Among the entrees, try the moist, perfectly cooked red snapper topped with tomatoes, onions, green peppercorns, rosemary, and a touch of vinegar, served with sautéed squash. And don’t be surprised if you’re seated by the owner’s wife or teenage daughter, or if the chef himself, Guy Calluaud, comes out of the kitchen to set a table or straighten the silver. A recent change: Calluaud’s is no longer open for lunch. 5405 W. Lovers Ln., 352-1997. Moderate.
Chez Gerard. This quintessential little French restaurant with its flowery wallpaper, lace curtains, and cozy feel brings to mind your grandmother’s dining room. However. Grandma never cooked like this, and she sure didn’t offer wines like these. The classic French onion soup, crowned with toasted bread and melted cheese, makes a nicely sized, thoroughly satisfactory appetizer; as does a zesty dish of mixed seafood with avocado and lime. The heady-with-mustard dressing coating the tender greens and wisps of mushroom make the house salad a winner and perk up the palate for what follows. The menu is resolutely French, with intensely flavored crawfish soufflés, delicate beef in a wonderful peppery sauce, and the best pommes frites around. Desserts, from the cloud-filled praline souffle to the crusty crème brulée, should never be skipped. 4444 McKinney Ave.. 522-6865. Moderate.
The French Room. At Dallas’ pre-eminent grand-occasion restaurant, the price is haughty, although the courtly and unassuming staff certainly is not. And the menu is charged with such romantic eloquence it might make the best-seller lists as The Dishes of Dallas County. But it’s not just hype-every dish we sampled more than lived up to its billing, from an appetizer of foie gras terrine with mesclun salad to a roasted breast of guinea hen, split and filled with sweet crab me at. Chef Donald Guillory’s cuisine makes dining here a special occasion. In the Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce St., 742-8200. Expensive.
La Petite Maison. The young and enthusiastic Robert Barone, the chef-owner of this new restaurant, has made a good start with this daring venture. From our first thrilling spoonful of soup to the last plate-scraping nibble of chocolate creme, Barone’s fare was beautifully prepared, presented, and served. Take the lobster bisque, for example. Its deep auburn color hinted at its lush, splendid flavor. Also good was the seafood starter of smoked salmon, scallops, and shrimp flung with capers and green onion. The “Grand Mere” oven-roasted chicken, sprinkled lavishly with hearty smoked bacon squares, was served with carved potatoes and tiny onions. The pork medallions zinged with Dijon mustard and a side of garlic whipped potatoes and baby carrots, while roasted rack of lamb featured three rib chops on a bed of toothsome couscous spiced with subtle curry. The dessert we tried-silken chocolate creme under a tepee of fragile pastry triangles rooted in whipped cream and a layer of raspberries-was a dramatic creation. The only selection we haven’t enjoyed so far is a gingerbread and ice cream dessert that lacked finesse. 2917 Fairmount St., 855-0700. Moderate.
La Chardonnay. Restaurateur Michel Baudouin’s same-name Dallas spin-off of his Fort Worth establishment serves the same menu as the original. Yet the two could hardly be more different physically. The western Le Chardonnay is merry and casual, while the Dallas version Strikes a serene, urbane note. At both locations, M. Baudouin’s French fare is modulated to appeal to Texas palates. Black bean soup and beef tenderloin sauced with jalapeno and cilantro are popular favorites, as is a rather sweet tart featuring apples with purple, green, and Vidalia onions on sturdy pastry. A pan-seared veal chop with port sauce was flavorful. Finish it all with a lighter-than-air serving of Boating Island. 500 Crescent Court, Ste. 165. 922-4555. Moderate to expensive.
Old Warsaw. Romance is on the menu here, with its candlelit atmosphere, unobtrusive service, and strolling violinists. The menu is solidly Continental and features lots of tableside preparation. The lobster crepe, packed with cubes of sweet meat, makes an excellent appetizer, as does the rich, creamy Brie soup. Entrées include braised pheasant, rack of lamb, and sweetbreads. Crab-stuffed tenderloin, a favorite choice, is meltingly tender and a visual delight. The wine list is excellent, and you’ll have plenty of time to study it if. as often happens, you’re shown to the bar for a lengthy wait until your table’s ready. 2610 Maple Ave., 528-0032. Expensive.
D REVISITS The Pyramid Room. That vastly overused word, opulence, has to be hauled out yet again here-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it; here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, on our visit, deserved superlatives, albeit not Quite as glowing anes for the prix-fixe menu (four courses, $29 sans wine) as for pricier a la carte selections. Grilled quail halves were pretty little things on Marsala-glazed arugula leaves; cream of turnip soup with toasted pumpkin seeds was too subtle [read: bland) to stir excitement, but grilled snapper with shiitake mushrooms in lobster butter sauce was satisfying, Macadamia nut tor te was a dense disappointment, particularly compared to a companion’s a la carte dessert indulgence-a gooey dome of warm chocolate polenta filled with caramel, on bourbon-laced sauce with vanilla ice cream. The courses preceding that sin were stellar, too- duck confit was tenderness itself in a wine-poached pear; lobster bisque was satin-rich and cognac-kissed; herb-crusted rack of lamb, four rosy baby chops, came with chèvre-sharpened mashed potato and jewel-pretty vegetable pearls on rosemary mint sauce. The companion’s tad passed the $50 mark, but you could hardly ask for more cosseting or more comfort at any price than that provided by this serenely cosmopolitan restaurant. Great wines, too. and live music. 1717 N. Akard St., 720-5249. Expensive.
The Riviera. We know of no place in Dallas where food, service, and ambience unfailingly come together in a more pleasurable whole, from seating and gift hors d’oeuvres to bitter, smooth, farewell chocolate truffles. Between those grace notes, every course shines with the exuberance characteristic of the restaurant’s namesake Mediterranean i region. One appetizer featured rich nuggets of Maine lobster with fresh-scented celery root in sautéed cakes nestled in basil-lobster sauce along with infant leaves of arugula and cilantro. We also found a perfect soup; a chilled Provencal blend of fresh and sun-dried tomato afloat with ripe avocado slices around a crouton heaped with crab meat. 7709 Inwood Rd.. 351-0094. Expensive.
Water’s. This homey little restaurant, half of it an art-filled cozy interior and half an enclosed patio, might have been lifted, menu intact, right off a Paris or Brussels side street. The menu features brains, rabbit, ana sweetbreads for sophisticated customers, but also plenty of pasta, grilled fish, and vegetarian dishes for the less brave. And a filling appetizer of toast rounds served with a zesty eggplant relish and an intense tapenade is a steal at $3.50. As enticing as these regular favorites are. don’t miss the daily specials, like heaps of incredibly tiny mussels in a cream-enhanced garlicky broth. Another nice touch: a cheese plate for dessert, with a half-dozen types of perfectly ripe cheeses, carefully trimmed fruit slices, and a freshly heated basket of bread. On lazy Sunaay afternoons, customers can order from Watel’s regular lunch menu or opt for one of the brunch specials. 1923 McKinney Ave.. 720-0323. Moderate.
Gourmet to Go
Eatzi’s. Okay, it’s not a restaurant, but the prepared foods and breads you can buy here make it worth frequent trips to turn a meal in your own dining room into a special occasion. Make your way to the bread shelves, where you’ll find 14 varieties and enough spreads and fillings to make you dizzy. At the salad counter, just describe the salad of your dreams and they’ll toss it together. For an effortless meal, I try one of the chickens from the wood-burning oven, a steak from the butcher’s counter, or one of the dozens of prepared foods. The quality of the deli meats is unsurpassed. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave.. 526-1515. Inexpensive to moderate.
Greek
Kostas Cafe. A light, lemony flavor underscores the sagana-ki. a creamy, mild cheese that’s breaded, fried, and served in flames, and the dolmas bulge with their rice and meat filling. The ever-popular spinach and feta cheese pie called spanakopita can be ordered either as an appetizer or entrée, and it packs a light, airy mouthful of flavor. Skip the dreary salads and move on to a gyro sandwich packed with lamb and beef, or kabobs starring succulent grilled pork tenderloin. Combination platters offer the best way to sample the menu, and be sure to peruse the wine list, with 21 wines available by the glass. The homemade rum cake may 1 not be an authentic Greek dessert (don’t worry, there’s also baklava), but it packs a tasty punch. 4621 W. Park Blvd., Piano, 596-8424. Moderate.
D REVISITS Ziziki’s The gleaming wooden bai might be one of the places to be seen in Dallas, but it’s the food that reigns supreme here. An order or two of Ziziki bread (homemade pita bread Broiled with two cheeses and herbs) teams well with any of the I carefully crafted salads. Lamb and shrimp star here (the I lamb souvlaki. skewered lamb ready to be popped into homemade pita bread, makes a can’t-be-beat sandwich), I and the homemade Italian cream cake ends meals on a sweet nota The wines, die-sen 1rom ail over the globe. | demonstrate the owners never-ending guest for the best. You’ll wars to visa the ne* coffee bar/take-out shop for some of your Zizilld favorites (like their mouthwatering sauces). 4514 Travis St.. Ste. 122, 521 2233. Moderate to expensive.
Home Cooking
Barbec’s. 8949 Garland 8d.. 321-5597. Inexpensive.
Celebration. The restaurant looks like a house, with its wood paneling, fireplaces, and cozy furnishings. The wait-resses are extremely friendly and chatty, and put you right at home the minute they bring a basket with melba toast. sesame breadsticks, and other packaged crackers to your table. The menu features such hom&cooked treats like chicken and dumplings, and turkey and dressing. While Dor tions are generous, save room for the freshly baked rolls and muffins. No hies here: instead you’ll get a bowl of fresh seasonal hurt. 4503 W. Lovers In., 351-5681. Inexpensive.
Mecca. On a recent visit we found the quality o1 the high ly touted Mecca breakfast had slipped considerably. The gravy was downright thin and tasteless, and you can get eggs, grits. hash browns, and bacon cooked this competently ;it s number of places. Biscuits are harder to find. ; though, and the Mecca’s are certainly acceptable-fluffy i and hot, but not remarkable. But this veteran establish ment Can’t be beat for aimosphere; it’s go the feel and . the look of a truckstop diner, except it’s clean and bright i and offers a nonsmoking section (and has enough non-smoking customers, apparently, to make that distinction more factual than symbolic). 10122 Harry Hines Blvd., 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Poor Richard’s Cafe. Located in a strip shopping center in East Piano, this country cafe has been serving families and working folks for more than 20 years. The menu has a range of stout breakfast and lunch offerings. In the morning, the signature BBQ Omelet is a Western-style delight and the pancakes are light and flufly, The wait resses are plentiful. courteous, and efficient. 2442 Avenue K at Park Boulevard, 423-1524. inexpensive.
Indian
D REVISITS Bombay Cricket Club. Though we’re easily fooled about the nuances of cricket o,he game), the food here is definitely cricket with us. especially the incendiary chicken vendaloo. the soothing saag paneer (chunks of homemade cheese in creamed spinach), and the curry-kissed aloo bengal), which com-bines eggolarit.. potatoes, onions, and tomatoes. Having heard raves about the leg of lamb horn the tandoor, we’re saving it lor the next round, or inning, or chukker, or what ever they call it. 2508 Maple Ave.. 871-1333. Inexpensive to moderate.
India Palace. With gracefully figurer) arc&rJfiB. a window overlooking the deep clay tandoor ovens, and a bountiful buffet, india Paiace can appear quite splendld. Try the mulligatawny soup- tomato with an undercurrent of coconut- and pureed lentil punctuated with a hoist of distinct herbs. Curried chicken Is creamy, tender, and moist, .while the bright-red marinated tandoori chicken and grilled flat bread or naan. both seared by the intense dry heat of the tandoor oven, are without parallel. End it ail with a luscious mango custard or creamy rice pudding with almonds, pis-tar.hios, and a hint of rosewater. 12817 Preston Rd., 392-0190. Moderate.
Italian
The Adriatic. The Italian food here is complemented by the high caliber of the service and the tranquillity of the set-ting, which includes live (and blissfully quiet) piano music. Start a meal with the exeellent steamed clams in garlic broth or the Caesar Satan-fresh, but needed more of the excellent croulons and si wedded cheese. The rack of lamb, perfectly cooked, was a treat with heaping sides of zucchlni and carrots and the garlic lagen walloped potatoes. The pepper steak special is a tender, lasty meat feast sider by a nicely braised cabbage dish that’s not often served today. Expect generous portions here and peruse the wine Hat, which Impresses with Us variety and reasonable prices. Bargains abound on the lunch menu, which features everything from a fruit and cheese platter to crab and cannellont. The instaurant also has a regal, yet welcoming bar. This may just be the neighborhood spot we all seek for a romanfcc dinner or to unwind from (he woodsy, 19009 Preston Rd.. 248 2500. Moderate.
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr.. 521-3585. Moderate,
Angelo’s italian Grill. Hew to the spicier side of the menuclams in red sauce over lingurne. say. or Pasta Romano with Itatian sausage, popperoni, olives, and Roma tomatoes over penne-and you’ll be fine. Entrees in the white-sauce family, however, can be cloyingly rich, as was three cheese pasta on a recent visit. The Gorgoazola, Parmesan, and fontina swamping the linguine lost their individuai tastes m the creamy sea. and only a heavy application of red pepper helped us finish half the plate. Bin given the affable service, reasonable prices ($7.95-$12.95), and generous portions, we’ll bo; brick-with fingers crossed. 6341 La Vists Dr. 823 5566, Inexpensive.
Campisi’s Egyptian. Snove open the padded led vinyl door, stumble to a leatherette booth In this darkened room, and plunk a quarter in your mini jukebox to have the Chairman of the Board or I h inn Martin croon a tune as you sip Chlanti. People swear by Campisi’s rectangular pizzas, with their ultra-thin crusts, but they use scallions instead of onions, and what appear to be canned mushrooms instead of fresh, so we prefer the heaps of red-sauced pastas, especially the cheesy lasagna. Herbs lace the giant meatballs, the scampi is a garlicky delight, and the light-tasting cheese-cake (made by a local German baker) is absolute must. 55610 E. Mockingbird Ln . 827-0355. Inexpensive.
Cappellini’s. Garlic alert! Be forewarned that this restaurant specializes in the use of garlic-the chicken Caesar salad’s garlic-haunted dressing will keep you sails from vampires tor a long time. Another Cappellim’s trademark is the large portions: everything from the giant salads to the mouthwatering pasta to the homemade desserts will satisfy at least two people. The Tuscan salad is big enough tor three and is a clever combination of fresh greens, thinly sliced apples, Gorgonzola, toasted walnuts, and sun-dried tomatoes, all laced with a commendable balsamic vinaigrette The lasagne is usque-served in rolled single layers with a tomato sauce enriched with cream. Before you leave, stop in the restroom, where you’ll find water coolers tilled with much-needed mouthwash, 3820 Belt Une Rd., Addison, 488-9494. Moderate.
Ciao Bella. The very menu begins ’He secbctio^ with its mouthwatering description of the cuisine of Chef Tommaso’s ltalian home of Bologna: when our dinner was served, the loving, handmade care with which Tommaso recreates Ills hour mi’ \w brought joy to our palates and fueled the culinary romance. Ait appetizer of baked aril choke filled with veal, ricotta. spinach, and herbs seemed somehow to expand to more than the sum of it s flavor components once it reached the tongue, and linguine with clams, herbs, garlic, and white wine did not disappoint The star of our meal was a special, peppered salmon in brandy sauce, which was flaky and oh-so smooth, with just the right amount of pepper kick. 3232 McKmney Ave. ,871-2074. Inexpensive to moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar Anil Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave., 824-9944. Moderate,
Joey’s. Every dish we saw or sampled here was beautifully composed on the plate and only three were less interesting than they looked-an avocado pancake, Joey’s Nutty salad, and cappellint-crusted salmon. On the plus side, Joey’s serves a delicious rotisserie-roasted duck with fresh raspberries and richly seasoned wild rice. Also good is the fazzoletto. a tissue-thin pasta handkerchief fokied around arugula. spinach, and ricotta cheese. The shrimp and crab cheesecake with pesto was mouthwatering. Desserts were anticlimactic after the meal, but the seven-layer cheesecake and hoirse tiramlsu are pleasant 4217 Oak Law Ave. 526–0074. Moderate to expensive.
Mi Piaci. The artful, minimalist decor, complete with soaring, twisted columns, makes for an upscale setting, but Ml piaci’s food would taste great anywhere. You have to like a restaurant thai bakes It is own hrènds (including- killer breadsticks), cures its own olives. a?idftiows its own herbs. Pasta, which you can watch Mi Piaci’s chefs roll, shape. and cook, never tails to please, especially the earthy fusil-li with wild mushrooms. The menu always offers at least four types of made to-order risotto, a classic Italian, labor-intensive, meltingly tender rice dish; along with itallan stan dards such as osso buco and veal sca!o|>p(ne. Foc a knockout alternative, sample the mammoth. juicy, grilled pork chop, served with velvety sage-laced mashed potatoes, pungent oven dried tomatoes, and sweet roasted onions. Hefty portions of garlicky bruschetta start ft meal In stylo, and the lemon tart In 3 pistachio crust ends il on a light note. 14854 Monffort Dr.. Addison. 934-8424. Moderate.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. This eatery plays like an Italian opera. from the soprano highs of the al dente homemade pastas to the baritone lows of its strip-mail decor. The pizzas (the menu lists two dozer mouthwatering ver sions) achieve perfection, with crusts that retain their crisp-ness. topped with the freshest t”usn c=* tomato sauce and the softest puddles of mozzarella. The stuffed pastas, like lasagne, rotolo verde, and spinach-filled ravioli satisfy the headiest appetites, and any.mgcnt parsley pesto enlivens the complimentary focaccla. So far, excursions onto the secondi pigtti (second course) list haven’t met the expec-tations created by what precedes it. There’s no wine fist so bring your own Chianti. Be sure to end your meal with a slice of the chocolate mousse cake MoMo’s wife makes, or one of the many ice craam selections, each crowhed with homemade whipped cream. 9191 Forest Ln.. 234-6800. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nicola’s. H took four visits to this smoothly polished Italian gem before we could bear to order anything other than then Killer quatro stagionl plzza (dlvided into four gections of are” chokes, mushrooms. prosckutto. and tomato/basil). The pizza dough, like the homemade breads, gets its distinctive crunch from a high-heat stint in the woodburning oven in this smartly designed restaurant’s exhibition kitchen Homemade moxxarella graces the pizza. as well as sever-at of the pasta dishes, whe the lush lasagrie special lay ered with chicken and spinach. Minestrone starts the meal in a hearty fashion; its a better choice than the lackluster salads. A bottle of Antinorl Chianti complements Nicola’s food perfectly, and dinners end best with a dish of homemade geiato (rich ice cream), Be careful, howeyet if you order the focaccia Nicola appetizer. You’ll never stop with Just one order The Galleha. third floor. 13350 Dallas Pkwy.. TS8-1177. inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520CedarSpnngs Rd 871-1924. Moderate.
Ruggeri’s Ristorante. This congenial restaurant has a for lowing of prosperous regutars who swear by the dependable excellence of its cuisine. from crab claws Lamonte sauteed in lemon butter, garlic. and crunchy minced shallots to creamy zabaglione afloat with fresh raspberries and Strawberries. The strawberries were winter-firm for our visit and should have been omilled, but everything aise wa sare pled demonstrated Ruggeri’s exacting standards. Cappeline al Salmone was. as usual, a transcendent com position of ange! hair pasta punctuated with smoked salmon curls and caviar in vodka sauce. Scalioppine alle Carciofo presented veal scallops sauteed with artichoke hearts and mushrooms lea lively leason buttor suce 2911 Routh St., 871-7377. Moderate.
Tramontana. The bistroesque, intimate new restaurant in Preston Center offers diners a charming place to enjoy the wizardry of Chef Jose Sanchez, who has cooked at Old Warsaw and Les Saisons. Marvelous starlers lnclude the marinated goat cheese, peppered and nestled on top of herbed greens. Those same greens shone in a mesciun salad strewn with chunks of walnuts and tart goat cheese. We also savored the soups-deep-flavored French onion was topped with fine Giuye?e cheese and tne haricots vert have a strong, fresh presence in the creamed groon beat potage. Entrées exceeded our expectations Pan-seared safmon was transcendent bathes m a tart cape’ sauce and served with grilled polenta and steamed spinach. Ditto on the ravioli stuffed with spinach and mushrooms and on the super-plump filet mignon sauced with Cabernet and sided with crunchy green beans and rosemory pototoes. The desserts ate made in-house. but \ie bread is from Massimo’s. Preston Center’s got itself a winner. 8220B Westchester Dr.. 368-1188. Inexpensive to moderate.
Japanese
Hana. We give Hana high marks for authenticity, from the sushi bar to the taiami room to the stacks of Japanese newspapers and magazines avuilable for their customers’ perusal. The Sashimi’s predictably good, especially thefla-vor-packed salmon, although the sushl list should expiain just what things like ’Texas roi” consist of for those of us who don’t know Both the lunch and dinner menus offer bento boxes, Japan’s version of a combination platter, and these taste impeccably fresh The crisp tempura shrimp and vegetables have only recently emerged from thir hot off the grill. Extra care has even been given to the saiads. off the grill. Extra care has even been given to the salads. with slices of real Japanese cucumbers end flecks of grated ginger in the dressing. 14865 inwood Rd.. 991-8322.
Nakamoto. Ruisseau Village, 3309 N. Central Expy. 881. 0328. Moderate.
Sushi at the Stoneieigh. Every bite we sampled was delec table, from the basic raw tuna, yeliowtail. and salmon cuts to a more exotic spider roil of crunchy-cooked. soft-shell crab wrapped in seaweed and rice Chef’s special baked mussels were divline, warmly banketed in the half shell by a lush Mend of mayonnaise and golden smell eggs The salmon roe on seaweed wrapped nee burst voluptuously on the tongue- Don’t forgot appetizers: The miso soup, with hidden cubes of silken tofu, and gently pickled emerald seaweed were delightful. 2927 Maple Ave 871-7111 Inexpensive to moderate.
Kosher
Deco’s By Arthur. With textured aluminum overhangs, a black and purple theme, and a round neon clock this strloy ly kosher restaurant is an attractive contemporary diner. You’ll find vast quantities of pizzas. oasta and bated arti-choke bottoms, and a $6.95. heart-healthy, all-you-can-eat bullet of salads, vegetables, and pasta. Among the many dishes, the mushroom soup and smoked salmon pasta are delightful. Several nights a week, jazz and jam sessions entertain the diners. (The restaurant closes for the Sabbath at 2:30 p.m. Friday and reopens at 10:30 a.m. Sunday for brunch,) 1418 Preston-Forest Square. 788-2808. Inexpensive.
Mediterranean
Adelmo’s. Our last dinner at Adelmo’s might have been prepared in two separate restaurants, course by course. A starter of lobster ravioli was a lively, lovely affair, the tender pasta pillows plump with toothsome filling in a spicy vodka tomato sauce. Salmon tartare was a soupy mess- Innocent snippets of fresh, raw pink lost in a near-liquid amalgam sparsely studded with onion and too many capers. The spécialité de la maison grilled veal chop was perfect as always, an awesome cut splendidly browned outside, juicy and luscious inside, large enough for two. A day’s special grilled trout was innocence betrayed again, by an unnecessary assault of strong accent elements-dried cherry tomatoes, capers, pickled artichoke hearts, and mushrooms, all laid on in a florid over-treatment that overwhelmed the delicate, sweet trout meat’s flavor. 4537 Cole Ave.. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Istanbul. 545C W. Lovers Ln., Ste, 222, 902-0919. inexpensive to moderate.
Méditerranée 18111 Preston Rd., Ste. 120. 447-0066. Moderate.
Sambuca. At the gorgeous new Addison location, deep, inviting booths with animal prints, a high-tech-bar area, and a forest-scene mural all create a wild atmosphere that is good for people-watching and enjoying live jazz. Compared to this noise and color, Sambuca’s menu seems almost restrained. To start off a meal, the spinach salad with a sun-dried cherry vinaigrette and the appetizer pizzas get high marks. For the main course, the specials seem more assertively flavored than the regular menu Hems. For dessert, dive into the rich Romana Sambuca cake, which is drenched with anise-flavored liqueur. 15207 Addison Rd.. Addison, 385-8455. Moderate.
Vincent’s Home Cooking. Mediterranean specialties such as dolmades, hummus, and baba ghanoush share equal space on the buffet table with salads and a variety of meats. Plus, don’t forget a slice of the homemade bread. The feast, which includes a selection of desserts such as chocolate cream pie, costs as little as $5.95.2574 Walnut Hill Ln.. 351-1860. Moderate.
Mexican
Cantina Laredo. 8121 Walnut Hill Ln., 987-9192. Inexpensive,
Casa Rosa. Traditional Mexican dishes are offered, but so are dishes that put a California-type spin on classic Mexican by adding things like goat cheese, wild mushrooms, and mesquite-grilled red snapper. The interior appeals with its giant murals, spot-lighted plants, and a muted, comforting decor. The peppery salsa and thin, crisp tortilla chips awaken appetites, and flawless service moves meals along smoothly. Nicely grilled meat stars in the tacos al carbon, and chicken enchiladas come packed with shredded meat and topped with a subtly smoky red sauce. Good, creamy flan stars for dessert, although “topped with fresh fruit” is a stretch for the lone, fanned strawberry. 165 Inwood Village. 350-5227. Inexpensive.
Cenaduria Mexicans. This restaurant’s goal is to offer authentic homemade Mexican-not Tex-Mex-food. It achieves this through such offerings as the barbacoa, a Mexican pot roast, that is served weekdays only. You get a generous plate of fork-tender beef mixed with onions, chiles, and tomatces. With the basket of tortillas, it’s a roll-your-own feast. The side of beans gets high marks for the smoky flavor and a hint of what we suspect is beer in the juices. Unfortunately, bland is prevalent here. The que-sadillas could be fed to a baby with their tasteless white cheese and tortillas-they need some jalaoenos. chopped onions, anything. Tie soupy salsa served with chips before the meal can be tongue-tingling one day and bland the next. Chicken gorditas, a better choice, still need to be doused with salsa. Breakfast is also served until noon each day with nothing over $4.95. Cenaduria is sure to get regulars coming to see the mariachis and ballet dancers perform. 2013 Greenville Ave., 827-1494. Inexpensive.
Chuy’s. Separate yourself from the roar of the crowd, and pay attention to the food and intelligent service-this is Tex-Mex with a healthy attitude. Charros. lightly spiced beans sans fat, offer a happy alternative to the refried standard here-and even that’s thoughtfully cooked with canola oil instead of lard. Fine, thin tostadas are grease-less; salsas carry fresh, addictive bite. House-special enchiladas feature blue corn tortillas stacked with big bites of smoky grilled chicken in a tart green tomatillo sauce; grilled chicken and cheese take on spirited tang with a more delicate tomatillo sauce made with herbs, sour cream, and spices. And a prime starter before all this is rajas con queso-chiles and onions bathed in a nippy white cream cheese sauce, thin but hauntingly rich in flavor. 4544 McKinney Ave.. 559-2489. Inexpensive to moderate.
Flying Burro. Bringing his own style of New Mexico-Mex to Dallas, owner Scott Cain has a neat sense of the cuisine’s essential basics. To Texas tongues, the most alien dish on the menu will probably be Winnie’s Killer Queso. a dark, spicy, burn-the-baby mélange of peppers. The fried jalapenos-uncommonly crisp and pickled, are filled with vinegary chicken and cheese, all hot as hell. The Burro’s sauces, in red or green, are gentler on the tongue and add the fight spice to the chicken and New Mexican enchiladas. Be wary, however, of the posole. which had been overcooked and oversalted when we visited. The pounded chicken breast also had been baked too long. Overall, the restaurant makes a happy addition to the casual dining scene. 2831 Greenville Ave., 827-2112. Inexpensive.
Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Start by dipping chips into the warm, piquant green salsa, wash them down with handmade margaritas, then opt for tart, fresh ceviche while you ponder: Barra de Navidad, enormous fresh shrimp sautèed In diablo sauce (coffee, orange juice, tomato), or delicate Snapper Mojo de Ajo in garlic and lime, or mouthwatering Filete con Champinones (steak with mushrooms and brandy)? Decisions, decisions. 4912 Cole Ave., 521-4211. Moderate.
La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th St., 941-4304. Inexpensive.
Mattito’s. Chicken quesadillas. listed as an appetizer, qualify as a full meal, and are much tastier than the grilled vegetable nachos (broccoli on a nacho?). Go for the spinach enchiladas with their zippy green sauce, and don’t miss the chile rellenos, topped with the usual sauce, cheese, and sour cream, but also with chopped pecans for crunch and raisins for sweetness. The fajitas and tacos are standard fare; save your calories for the homemade flan and sopaip illas instead. Mattito’s bar packs a livery crowd, and lunch bargains abound, with specials ranging from $4.95 to $6.95, including a foot-long enchilada wild beans and rice and two versions of chicken-fried steak. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave.. 526-8181. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Matt’s Rancho Martinez. We’ve hopscotched across Matt’s menu for years, trying the seafood platter (shrimp, frog legs, catfish), the veggie fajitas (a nice culinary oxymoron), the “old-fashioned’ chalupas, and more, but we’re always drawn back to the trademark chile rellenos. Get them topped with ranchero or green sauce: either marnes nicely with Monterey jack cheese, sour cream, raisins, and pecans. The only down notes: The tortilla soup is curiously zing-less, and the “Cowboy drunk” beans that accompany many dishes are, while fat-free, almost taste-free as well, 6312 La Vista Dr.. 823-5517. Inexpensive.
Mia’s. No question-Mia’s would be a prime member on anyone’s list of classic Dallas restaurants. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chile rellenos. Other days, they make do with a menu of house specialties, combo plates, and sides that read like standard Tex-Mex on paper, but on the palate translate into transcendent fare. Try the bean soup, a truly noble amalgam of pintos with minced chiles, bacon, onion, and cilantro accents, miles richer in flavor than prissy upscale black-bean concoctions. Fork into a cheese enchilada crowned with honest beefy chili, or a soft cheese taco’s tenderly molten heart. Ladle the bracing house salsa onto a bean-spread chalupa or a beef-filled taco, and savor the texture contrasts of greaseless tortilla shells and fine-ribboned lettuce. Service is cheerful, the setting is no-frills comfortable, and long-loyal habitués will tell you: You might pay more other places, but you won’t gel better food. One note: The restaurant does not serve liquor. 4322 Lemmon Ave.. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
Monica’s Aca Y Alla. Her ads say she’s not beautiful, but Monica sure knows how to cook. She does, she does- and never a dull cliché on the plate. Her tortilla soup’s a miracle of textures and flavors that shames tonier places with its crisp tortilla ribbons and rainbow-pretty passel of vegetables. The salad that comes with it at lunch is all perky mixed greens, brightened with lime-dill vinaigrette. Pan-fried catfish is soulfully tender (if regrettably cursed with thread-thin bones) in garlic butter lime sauce, And the brown rice risotto in mild chipotle sauce strikes a neat chord in harmony with sautéed shrimp. The key lime cheesecake is a favorite, the house flan is a lively gingered chocolate. Don’t look for the mundane here-this is one of Deep Blum’s prime heath-conscious, people-watching spots. Live music, dance rhythms as spicy as the food. Is featured on Friday and Sunday nights. 2914 Main St.. 748-7140. Moderate.
Piano Tortilla Factory & Cafe. Not exactly around the corner, not much atmosphere, and no alcohol served, but this little authentic Mexican joint will have you eating to the belt-loosening stage. Your best game plan: Arrive after 11 a.m., when your meat will start with free, fresh corn-tast-ing chips, spicy salsa, guacamole, and pico de gallo. Buttery tasting chicken quesadillas. stewed pork-filled taquitos, and a split corn tortilla stuffed with inch-thick cubes of tender chicken team up nicely for a generous à la carte meal that would satisfy any linebacker, and would still leave enough from a 10-spot to pay for dessert and a drink. Combination plates, complete with rice and beans, average about $5. Make sure to take home a copy of the menu-this place does big take-out business. 1009 E. 18th St., Piano, 423-6980. Inexpensive.
Tupinamba. Eddie Dominguez’ family has been in the restaurant business for 30 years, so he’s trying to uphold the family’s reputation. He has risen to the occasion. Meals commence with tortilla chips and a zesty bowl of salsa- fiery one day, almost tolerable the next. Nachos are crisp with shredded chicken and cheese, and the shrimp cock-tall combines fresh shellfish with a drinkable gazpacho soup/sauce. “Tupy” tacos, although deep-fried, are hard to Stop eating. Two small disappointments-the sour cream enchiladas were bland and the fajita salad was topped with dry chicken and an uneventful vinaigrette dressing. Desserts are definitely worth ordering. 12270 Inwood Rd,, 243-2355. Inexpensive.
Middle Eastern
All Baba. Bring your family here for exceedingly tow prices, abundant portions, and authentic Middle Eastern cuisine. Start off with the maza plate, a traditional sampler of hummus, baba ghanoush. grilled eggplant, and tabouleh, a parsley, lemon juice, tomato, and wheat salad. Then try the falafels. deep-fried chick peas and sesame seeds in a yogurt sauce; kibi. deep-fried cracked wheat and beef; or grilled shish Tawook, spicy chicken cubes with smoky rice and vermicelli. 1905 Greenville Ave., 823-8235. Inexpensive.
Natural/Health
Dream Cafa. 2800 Routh St.. 954-0486. Moderate.
Fresh ’N Lite. The name can be a little misleading-the menu does offer a lot of fat-free foods, but this place is out to please everyone, so the menu includes burgers, croissant-based sandwiches, and even corn dogs. Most popular are the enormous bowls of salad in 13 varieties. The Caesar features perfectly grilled chicken, olives, and onions, and makes a satisfying meal, although the accompanying pasty white rolls need improvement. Save room fora hot fruit cobbler. 6150 Frankford Rd., 713-8167. Inexpensive.
New American
Americana. Meals here start with crusty slices of bread just waiting to be dipped into a roasted garlic and sun-dried tomato aioli. The silky wild mushroom and cheese chowder is decadently rich. The knockout appetizer, though, was the smoked ham and Brie ravioli. Served in a bowl soup-style, their rich broth enlivened by fresh corn, herbs, and tomato nuggets, these ravioli tuck intensely smoky ham and earthy Brie between rustic homemade layers of pasta and create an unbeatable meal. The inventive appetizers set the stage for equally tasty entrees such as roast chicken {pure comfort food gone upscale, with heavenly whipped potatoes and spinach) and peppery beef tenderloin comes with a wealth of caramelized onions and morels. Now if they’ll just warm up the cold, almost clinical atmosphere. 3005 Routh St., 871-2004. Moderate.
Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-flung revolving restaurant, long marked by mediocre food that failed to live up to its soaring view, appears to be finding its wings at last-chef Jeff Dover’s menu almost consistently delivered delights on our recent visit. Starters were particularly outstanding-huge, meaty, seared sea scallops, pearly-white within, were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes, and earthy shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a to-die-for roasted shallot vinaigrette. An entrée of grilled tiger shrimp mounted toothsome guard on a peppery bed of lemon-spiked fettucine in garlic butter. Sautéed salmon was less memorable only because Its seasoning was too timid-the filet was fresh and perfectly cooked, but held little excitement on its bed of totally unseasoned rice; what flavor the plate afforded came from the grilled Granny Smith apple slices and applejack sauce that were both blander than expected (a seasonal thing, perhaps?). Desserts were one up-a tongue-tingling Key lime pie, really terrific-and one down-warm peach-walnut cobbler, made with canned peaches, for God’s sake, sans walnuts as far as we could tell and far too sweet. And the view? How blasé do we have to be before seeing the city do a slow 360-degree pirouette below us fails to be enchanting? Valet parking, by the way, is complimentary via the maitre d’s stamp. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd.. 651-1234. Expensive.
Anzu. 4620 McKinney Ave.. 526-7398. Moderate.
Beau Nash. The restaurant’s trademark grilled corn and smoked chicken soup turned out to be merely another take on the ubiquitous tortilla cliche, albeit a virtuously fat-free version. Pumpkin-brandy cheesecake was a rather too-solid ball thickly encrusted with shaved almonds-for the sake of a novel appearance, we suppose, at the delicate texture’s expense. Other presentations, though, were pretty without being contrived-grilled asparagus fanned beautifully under shiitake mushroom slices with peppered goat cheese; angel hair pasta lay heaped with lump crab meat and diced tomato on a wash of basil coulis. Creative pizzas [try steak), sandwiches (try lobster), and entrees all speak with the lively Asian accents we’re currently calling fusion. The Hotel Crescent Court setting is splendidly casual; the service manages to charm without being chatty. 400 Crescent Ct., 871-3240, Moderate.
Cafe Sierra. This casual, unpretentious restaurant offers dishes that combine Italian, Spanish, Greek, and Middle Eastern cuisines with Southwestern accents. About the most exotic dish on the menu is a portobello mushroom and zucchini sandwich grilled on rosemary focaccia bread with provolone spread, wild greens, and a sliced tomato. Happy tartness comes through in prosciutto-studded lin-guine and in moist grilled swordfish spiked with hearts-of-palm vinaigrette on a bed of seasoned couscous. A trio of marinated pork chops dripping in their brown-grilled juices would be comfort food anywhere. For dessert, a country tart with three types of berries in a flaky crust looked as good as it tasted, and the chocolate layer cake was a beautiful wedge of dark-brown sin. 2900 Greenville Ave.. 827-1813. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Ln.. 351-2233. Moderate.
Dakota’s. Start with an appetizer sampler or warm homemade breads and the addictive fried, cayenne-spiked onion shreds as you peruse the menu, which includes plenty of items marked as “lighter fare.” Choices from the wood-burning grill never disappoint, but a recent daily special was especially intriguing-colorfully striped, smoked moz-zarella ravioli showered with sweet crab and sautéed bell peppers with a light garlicky sauce to tie all the elements together. Bargain-seekers will love the $15.95. three-course “twilight menu” offered daily, with choices that might include a first course of venison sausage quesadil-las followed by roasted salmon and chocolate pecan pie. 600 N. Akard St., 740-4001. Moderate.
Huntington’s. You’ll forget that you’re in a hotel-the comfortable wing chairs, the simple-but-elegant centerpiece of a single Gerbera daisy floating in a water-filed bowl, and the oh-so-discreet service will remind you more of family get-togethers at your wealthy Aunt Edna’s. Good news, though-Huntington’s reasonable prices, its menu selections, and the quality of food bring this excellent lunch and dinner site firmly into the forefront of today’s best places in Dallas for a reasonably priced, reliably good meal. Lobster bisque smoothly and richly delivers the very essence of lobster, best enjoyed as you wolf down the lightly crusty rolls slathered with garlic-studded whipped butter. Don’t miss the meaty crab cakes (offered as an appetizer or entrée!, and end your meal with a knockout of a crusty crème brulée. Watch out for the tame salad dressings, though. Even Aunt Edna would demand something perkier than these. Westin Galleria, 13440 Dallas Pkwy., 851-2882. Moderate to expensive.
Landmark Restaurant. After a mysteriously brief liaison with peripatetic chef Avner Samuel, the Landmark is securely back on track-newly named executive chef Jim Anile’s menu (he was sous chef during the departed Kent Rathbun’s kitchen reign) displays a sure mastery of the virile multilingual cuisine Rathbun introduced, with exciting interpretations that are Anile’s own. A day’s-special starter, on our visit, topped a crisp-edged potato pancake with a single huge seared sea scallop and zipped the pairing with caviar-caper rémoulade. Another sandwiched a succulent grilled shiitake mushroom between Roma tomato halves, crumb-coated and fried, on baby greens dressed with basil-balsamic vinaigrette. Both were luscious, as was a haunt-ingly smoky tomato soup dolloped with pale green basil cream-a made-in-heaven marriage of flavors and hues adorned by a flash-fried basil leaf. An entrée of charred rare ahi tuna was stellar stuff indeed, the thick, meaty cut crisp-seared on the outside, its heart rosy-dark and tender; its accompanying warm salad Nicoise was studded with pressed kalamata olives that provided spirited accent to the gentle smoothness of the dressing, a vintage balsamic vinegar and saffron aioli. The warm cardamom spice cake shared for dessert was a trifle dry, but the red pear coulis and vanilla crème fraiche that dressed it redeemed it as well. 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 521-5151. Moderate to expensive.
Laurels. In the Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr., 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. We’ve never spent a more pleasant evening nor been more tenderly served than at the Mansion on this most recent visit. Nor had better food- the near-brashness that has at times marked chef Dean Fearing’s cuisine as more showy than soul-satisfying has been polished into a sophistication and balance that justify the international recognition he lias received. Take two starters: A mammoth orange caramelized sea scallop partnered divine flash-seared foie gras on a duck confit crepe with blackened turnip slices and gingered currant sauce; and risotto perfumed with Oregon truffles offered gentle counterpoint to pesto-glazed shrimp with tomato essence and grilled zucchini salad. A request to split an entree was honored without a murmur of condescension, and the ranch-reared antelope proved adequate for two, a substantial cut. rare and honey-glazed on a hearty posole stew gilded with roast yellow tomato, punctuated with barbecued venison fajitas. A less costly tasting menu ($65 complete) was as outstanding- -bay scallops on deep-flavored fennel puree with basil-creamed noodles; a curl of warm lobster and shrimp fritters with celery root in a salad dressed with truffle-tomato vinaigrette; pan-fried golden trout so succulent its layers slipped apart like satin, with parsley potatoes, black trumpet mushrooms, a crunchy bouquet of minced parsnips, young asparagus, and green beans completing the plate. Hang the cost. Go there. Do that. And don’t be dismayed if you mention wine by the glass and the sommelier drops you like a stone-it’s just his way. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 559-2100. Expensive.
Maple Avenue Cafe. This restaurant is a particularly happy instance of urban evolution-the circa-1905 mansion has been revived, polished, and given new life, welcoming diners to a setting that retains the warmth the house must have possessed as a home. Furnishings, service, and culinary style are in sync with the transformation-the food is regionally keyed to home cooking, stylishly updated but basically familiar. Shrimp cocktail is on the menu alongside ceviche. Good crusty roils accompany the soup of the day, a deep-flavored cream of mushroom on our visit. Oven-roasted natural chicken, Madeira-sauced, comes with garlic mashed potatoes; sauteed sea bass, petal-tender and moist, Is served on ribbons of lemon-buttered fettucine. A peanut butter tart carries a rich chocolate surprise; almond cheesecake is densely textured and satisfying. The house by-the-glass wines are Mondavi-cabernet, chardonnay, or zinfandeI-surprisingly modest in price as, indeed, is the food; Entrees start under $10, and the most expensive (two pounds of steamed lobster) is less than $20. 2616 Maple Ave., 871-1181. Moderate.
Nana Grill. The hotel’s name may have changed, but people-watching in the Wyndham Anatole Hotel lobby won’t- sheiks and secretaries, politicians and potentates, conventioneers and corporate power brokers. But sit in the 27th-floor Nana Grill and you’ll feel you could buy and sell them all-partly because of the altitude, the plush decor, and the staff’s polished competence, of course, but also because of chef Scott Blackerby’s cosmopolitan fare-like the ambrosial baked oysters with cilantro pesto, a trademark house favorite. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel tower, 2201 Stemmons Fwy.. 761-7479. Expensive.
Natchez. Southern hospitality is warmly dispensed here, in surroundings that suggest a large home’s dining room. The food’s markedly Southern, too-even tortilla soup, that Southwestern cliche, was gumbo-thick, dusky, and decidedly piquant. The small menu’s potato cakes, delicately crisp-skinned, were lapped in a sweet honey-mustard sauce; the king cake, a tender patty of chopped scallops, crawfish, shrimp, and salmon, came on a tangy tartar sauce, garnished with cilantro-kissed chopped tomato. Stuffed chicken breast was two half-breasts filled with crawfish and white cheese, bound together for cooking, then bedded on subtle cilantro pesto cream. Corn-crusted catfish, a huge filet, emitted a to-die-for fragrance and tasted as good with its unexpected beurre blanc sauce. But the big surprise of our visit was an outstanding crème brulée, its sugar-shell top still warm and crackling beneath the spoon. It blew us away. 2810 N. Henderson Ave.. 821-4552. Inexpensive to moderate.
Yellow. With new chef Christian Svalesen, a new seafood-rich menu that displays his talents, and lowered prices. Yellow scores a triple play. The potent little pots of garlic butter make it easy to polish off the crusty bread as you admire the crisp, clean decor-a white palette accented with clear, bright blue and, of course, yellow. You’ll find almost as many appetizers as entrées, and here, finally, is a restaurant that does both equally well. The best appetizer ranks among the best in town-a crab cake packed with Dungeness crab, lightly crusted, perched on a tantalizing coriander sauce. Among the lunch choices is a winner of a grilled salmon club sandwich, although it’s impossible to eat without a knife and fork. The dinner menu includes tasty options, like duckling in blackberry sauce, for those who don’t like seafood, but make sure that someone at your table orders the aptly named pyramid of swordfish. Desserts, especially the pistachio crème brulée. don’t disappoint-now. If only they’d expand the list, 2719 McKinney Ave., 871-1772. Moderate.
Seafood
Cafe Pacific. Magical food: a starter of lime-seasoned ceviche was as tony as the clientele, an extravagance of lobster and shrimp chunks with bay scallops, all bedded on jicama matchsticks and deep-green ribbons of spinach. A day’s Special entree starring Gulf red snapper was even prettier, the fish delicately moist inside a crisp corn-tortilla crust atop a fine, crunchy salsa balancing tart tomatillo and sweet diced pineapple. The too-sweet nubbly crust on a warm apple crisp dessert overwhelmed its firm, fresh fruit filling, but the vanilla bean Ice cream that crowned the whole affair helped cut the sweetness, as did bracing espresso. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston Road and Mockingbird Lane. 526-1170. Moderate to expensive.
Daddy Jack’s. Try steamed Manila clams, plump fresh things, their sturdy feet clinging stubbornly to shells, freckled with minced garlic crunch In dippin’-good broth. Savor an entree-sized appetizer of fresh mixed salad greens bedding meaty portobello mushrooms overlapped with ripe peeled tomato slices drizzled with Balsamic vinaigrette. Share a snapper and lobster tall special, sauced with spicy beurre blanc that nips you with warm afterburn-but only with someone you love enough to let him or her nibble at your big baked potato and sweet, barely steamed corn on the cob. One safe bet Nobody goes home from here hungry. Or feeling neglected, either, 1916 Greenville Ave., 826-4910. Moderate.
Eighteen-O-One. Owned by well-known caterer Daryl Richardson, this West End eatery in the Dallas World Aquarium features a superb, aquatically inspired menu reflecting the four regions from which the aquarium’s fish hall, Start with the warm bread and a cup of Daryl’s famous corn chowder, a spicy blend of fresh corn, peppers, and chunks of potatoes in a creamy base. Some of the international delicacies include coconut shrimp, quesadilla del Dia. sate of the day, and an Australian grilled sandwich. Or try one of the house specialties such as the grilled Caesar salad or crab cakes. Top it all off with ice cream and a homemade brownie. You’ll have to pay the admission fee for the aquarium in order to get to the restaurant, so plan some extra time to tour the museum, either to work up an appetite or walk off your meal. 1801 N. Griffin St., 720-2224. Inexpensive.
Job’s Crab Shack. 3855 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 247-1010. Inexpensive to moderate.
Lefty’s. Although the menu is small, Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t like seafood. Soups come in thick, white mugs; a disk of a cracker covers the top to keep the steam in. Choose the clam chowder and steer away from the metallic-tasting lobster bisque. Of the appetizers, the smoked salmon with bagel chips or the steamed clams would make a nice meal. So would the crisp house salad, paired with a crab cake and Its good dilled tartar sauce. Baked shrimp, stuffed with baby shrimp, crab, and cracker crumbs, are served perched in a wickedly good sauce. The service gets mixed marks, but the wine list is promising. One false note: The sauce on a daily special of seafood diablo lacked spiciness, though the plate was heaped with clams, lobster, mussels, and shrimp. One big bargain-the one-pound lobster with baked potato and corn for $10,95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 774-9518. Moderate.
Mainstream Fish House. Preston Forest Shopping Center, 11661 Preston Rd., Ste. 153, 739-3474. Moderate.
Newport’s. 703 McKinney Ave., 954-0220, Moderate.
Remington’s Seafood Grill. The menu here has its highs and lows. Crab cakes are nicely meaty, teamed well with fresh chopped slaw and skin-on fries. However, scoops of margarine, not butter, accompany the baskets of good bread and the baked potatoes, which are further insulted by promised chives. Skip the clam chowder In favor of the sprightly Caesar, and be sure to order the tiniest, tastiest dessert around, the SI.39 sundae-a mini-scoop of vanilla ice cream awash in caramel and fudge sauces, topped with chopped Hershey’s kisses. 4580 Belt Line Rd., 386-0122. Moderate.
The Roaring Fork. Restaurateurs Phil and Janet Cobb, savvy masters at creating first-class impact, have unveiled a restaurant as intriguing as its odd name. Fresh seafood, down in daily, receives major emphasis here, from Blue Point and Malpeque oysters, divine in their briny liquor, to an Alaskan crab claw that made us wonder why some seafood is cooked at all. Worth the trip alone was the signature appetizer called Duck Cigars-Asian egg rolls holding braised duck leg meat spiked with jalapeno and cilantro. A crawfish cake was less memorable, but crisp-skinned. Maytag blue cheese enlivened a wonderful salad with fanned pear slices and gave zip to the grits that came with the half-split, double pork chop and apple fritters. The nearest we came to disappointment was with the veal tenderloin that arrived as slightly overcooked medallions; the wild mushrooms in a brandied cream sauce overwhelmed the veal’s delicate flavor. However, the succulent swordfish steak coated with a horseradish crust found the perfect partners in its mustard cream sauce and wild rice cake. 14866 Montfort Dr., 387-3675. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave.. 880-0111. Moderate.
Sea Grill. Asian accents are subtly woven into this seafood-intense menu, where every bite surprises-a touch of lemongrass in the iced tea, a splash of sake enlivening a black bean sauce. Don’t even bother with trie menu if a lobster sandwich is one of I he daily Specials; just order It quickly before they run out. Hunks of sweet lobster meat tossed with a lemon/Dijon mayo make this open-faced sandwich a winner, and it’s served not only with fries, caraway seed-flecked slaw and slices of mango, but also with the good house sal;nl. The sotting may be strip mall-pedestrian, but the food, right down to the homemade desserts, transcends it. The orange cheesecake, as delicate as a mousse, ends a meal on a light but flavor-intense note. Sea Grill even offers a wine list that does just ice to its food (although the by-the-glass prices are steep). 2205 N. Central Expy. Ste. 180, Piano, 509 5542, Moderate.
Shell’s Oyster Bar & Grill. Despite its one big flaw-waiters that are blase about their duties-we couldn’t help but like Shell’s. Start with the peel ’n’ eat shrimp. a hefty portion of perfectly prepared crustaceans. One evening’s fish special turned out to be a tasty, perfectly cooked, thin cut of excellent swordfish teamed with lightly cooked vegetables and rice, but the grilled shrimp dinner with slaw and fries was even better. Cajun touches dot the menu from po-boys to red beans and rice, but Shell’s, hoping to establish itself firmly as a seafood restaurant, is off to a good start. The desserts need work, though, so try an after-dinner drink or cappuccino rather than the overly-sweet, pastry-less peach cobbler. 6617 Snider Plaza, 691-8164. Inexpensive.
Southwestern
Lavaca Cantina. The cantina sits with three Other restaurants in the entertainment-restaurant-bar complex known 3S Pepper Square. The menu offers cowboy chow-grilled food, Mexican specialties, and lots of stuff for snacking. The best thing we tried was the jerk chicken and Key lime mustard slaw sandwich. The fun-filled cantina steals the show at happy hour, when 26 types of tequila draw some serious attention and the appetizer list gets a workout. If you’re going just for the food, lunch is a better deal. 14902 Preston Rd., Ste. 700 in Pepper Square, 45S0458. Moderate.
Loma Luna Cafe. Muted, soft earth tones, subtle lighting, and good art provide a tranquil setting for meals that start with hot chips and two assertively soicy salsas. The Botanas Platter, a generous assortment of appetizers, also zings the taste buds. Entrees, though, can be curiously bland, as though made by a different chef altogether, Silky flan and honey-drizzled Navajo fry bread ends the meal on a sweet note. Brunch, offered on both Saturdays and Sundays, is a $10.95 bargain, and offers a welcome change of pace-eggs scrambled with smoked mushrooms, onions, and poblano peppers, Mos1 entrees come with home fries and beans, and you’ll also be served blue com muffins, a fruit cup. a bottomless glass of champagne, and coffee. 8201 Preston Rd., Ste. 100, 691-1552. Inexpensive.
D REVISITS Sam’s Cats. Southwestern to the max, this Tex/Mex blend aims to please. Pots of soft, poppyseed-studded breadsticks stand ready to dip into their accompanying cream cheese/salsa mixture. Caesars take a Southwestern spin with spicy fried strips of tortillas replacing the croutons, while the dressing remains perkily authentic. The ’King Ranch Casserole,” a palate-pleasing mixture of chicken, corn tortillas, roasted peppers, cheeses, and onions, makes an excellent takeout dish for a dinner the whole family will love. Quesadillas, ail five varieties, score high marks, although the ingredients need to be spread out more evenly. Regulars like the eight Inventive pastas, and they also know that the poblano chicken chowder, with its sneaky little burn. Is a must-order, Sam’s offers a good-sized bar, with a house specialty called the “Grand Canyon”-a 32-ounce margarita. 8411 Preston Rd., Ste. 112, 739-2288. Moderate.
Star Canyon. Superchef Stephan Pyles lias a gift tor slip-ping happy tittle surprises Into even the most mundane-sounding dishes. Garlic potato soup, for Instance. hid crunchy niblets of mild garlic in its creamy depths, as well as golden cubes of baked sweet potato. A grilled quail was not only halved but boned on a first-course plate mounded with arugula that coyly concealed poached pear sliced and zip-spiked Cajun pecans. Coriander-cured venison lived up to its legendary reputation, grilled rare and sliced into rosy petals complemented by whipped yam and an assertive dried fruit empanada; and pan-seared salmon staked its own claim to stellar status sided with a musky black bean-roast banana mash fired with coconut-serrano broth. Even as simple a dessert as bread pudding departs from the commonplace here-the bread’s brioche, dark chocolate enriched; the sauce is sambuca-scented in gentle milk chocolate; the combination of subtle flavors and smooth texture is transcendent. Service was friendly and fast, as always, and we salute a wine list that covers a comfortable price range, as well as overall menu prices lower than many restaurants of lesser rank charge. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 520-7827. Moderate to expensive.
Spanish
D REVISITS chafe madrid. forget dreaming of tapatasting your way through Spain after sampling the little plates here-at least in our experience, neither Barcelona nor Madrid offers anything to equal Cafe Madrid’s panorama of palate teasers. Apart from the house bread, which is totally undistinguished, every bite we sampled held pure delight. Besides the two dozen or so tapas always available, a daily changing blackboard listing offers as many more, including everything from potato omelet to crisp-fried baby smelt, from wine-poached rabbit to blood sausage. Don’t shudder-that last is a near-religious experience, the dark, crisp-skinned sausage stuffed with rice and onion, filled with rich, meaty flavor, presented in dou-ble-bite-size morsels on herb-oiled cushions of bread. Try it with authentic Spanish manchego cheese, thin-sliced in crumbly mellow triangles, and stalks of white asparagus dressed with tomato-, onion-, and green pepper-studded vinaigrette. If it’s a more conventional meal you’re after. a three-course dinner is offered nightly-cream of leek soup, veal stew, and a cream-filled liqueur cake on our visit, paella on Friday and Saturday evenings. We tried the cake and found it reminiscent of tiramisu, moist and cinnamon-kissed. Given time, we’ll try everything on the board in this disarmingly casual, deservedly popular establishment. 4501 Travis St., 528-1731. Moderate.
Steakhouses
Bob’s Steak & Chop House. 4300 Lemmon Ave.. 528-9446. Moderate to expensive.
Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 934-2467. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. 5251 Spring Val ley Rd., 490-9000. Expensive.
Kirby’s Steakhouse. While the born-again Kirby’s is under new ownership, the clubby, comfortable restaurant relies heavily on recipes from the past: Steaks are cooked to perfection and have a hint of the forbidden flavor of fat. The new menu reflects ’90s notions with pasta, chicken, and seafood. The fried okra appetizer just may be the best in town. 3525 Greenville Ave., 821-2122. Moderate to expensive.
Morton’s of Chicago. If you’re an unrepentant carnivore who just doesn’t care that huge slabs of juicy red rib-eye steak and chops of veal aren’t chic any more, Morton’s is for you-and your more nutritionally correct family and friends can enjoy lobster, shrimp, or chicken as well as simply prepared fresh fish. Understatement reigns here, from dark wood to etched glass, starched white linens, and muted Sinatra, and there are more than 30 martini varieties. 501 Elm St., 741-2277. Expensive.
The Palm. This institution’s ebullient brashness seems so Texan that Dallas diners easily forget the restaurant didn’t originate here. Monster steaks and lobsters large enough to dance with (as waiters have demonstrated on past visits) are the main draw here, but veal, seafood, and poultry are featured, too. Prime rib on a recent visit was an overwhelming platterful, vast and lusciously rare in a crusty coating of seasonings; the veal chop sampled was less delectable, moist but decidedly chewy. These followed a warm appetizer of clams casino-on the half-shell, beneath a chop of celery, carrot, and garlic, topped with a crisp curl of bacon-and a cold one involving roasted pimiento blanketing iceberg lettuce under anchovy filets and many capers. Dressed with light vinaigrette, the latter is always fantastic; alas, though, instead of the usual quarter-head chunk of lettuce, the plate held a mere slice this trip-an odd place to cut corners, we thought. A side of green beans was fresh and crunchy; chocolate layer cake was fine. The most recognizable color caricatures of celebs, local and other, that cover the walls were fascinating as usual- although this was the first time we’d realized they were glued, rather than painted directly on the plaster. Tcch! 701 Ross Ave., 698-0470. Expensive.
Paul’s Porterhouse. Expect the unexpected at Paul’s. Outside, you’d peg it for a $7.99 all-you-can-eat beef joint. Inside, you II see otherwise, as you check out the Remington sculptures, lofty menu prices, and a knock-out of a wine list ( Wine Spectator gave it one of the six “Awards of Excellence” in Dallas). Other surprises quickly follow, like grand wheels of mild cheddar at each table, and maybe a complimentary bowl of quail soup or dessert |if Paul’s around and in a good mood). Prime beef (including a 28-ounce porterhouse) shares the menu with plenty of seafood items as well as deer, elk, ostrich, pheasant, and rabbit. 10960 Composite Dr., 357-0279. Expensive.
Stone Trail. The creative appetizer list includes a crab cake combining a wealth of lump crab meat with zestful chile, served with a tangle of vegetables; catfish with green apple tartar sauce: and grilled goat cheese in grape leaves. The rest of the menu bears more typical steakhouse fare, including lobster and an astonishingly pricey free-range chicken. Beef, crusty and juicy, makes the best entrée with cheese-rich potato casserole orchile^azzed whipped potatoes on the side. At lunch, Stone Trail serves a wonderful quesadilla that we’ll put up against any in town. Desserts change daily, but your best choice after dinner may be a drink or cappuccino in the beautiful knockout of a bar, where a jazz singer will entertain you. 14833 Midway Rd., 701-9600. Moderate to expensive.
Texas Land & Cattle Company. Night or day, this place jumps, and it has carved out its own Dallas niche with popular entrées liked smoked sirloin, mesquite grilled trout, and fried pickles. Meals begin with loaves of sourdough bread and a bucket of shell-on peanuts-plain or roof-of-your-mouth-burn-ing spicy. The shrimp cocktail, Caesar, and house salads are good starts. Then dive into the star attraction-meat. These thick slices of tender beef pair nicely with the heavenly skin-on homemade mashed potatoes, rich with garlic and pepper. But there are plenty of other choices from mesquite grilled shrimp to campfire chili. Don’t hesitate to fill up on the steak and potatoes, because none of the desserts are worth the calories, so far. 3130 Lemmon Ave., 526-4664. Moderate.
Thai
Chow Thai. This striking restaurant-with an eclectic atmosphere that includes lozenge-shaped lighting and light wooden chairs-amazes both the eyes and the mouth. The restaurant’s cooks and owner, who are from Bangkok, offer their customers authentic Thai fare with some exciting original dishes such as the Chow Thai duck, marinated in an exotic honey sauce, and yum pla muk, calamari served in a bed of fresh vegetables. If you choose items from the hotter side of the menu, cool off with Thai tea, a special blend with soy milk that is extremely soothing. Don’t let courteous, young waiters steer you away from the more exotic dishes. 5290 Belt Line Rd.. Ste. 144, 960-2999. Moderate.
Thai-Thai. Here’s the place for inexpensive food that hits the high points of freshness and authentic seasonings as satisfyingly as more exotic Thai eateries. A near-full house on our last visit made noon service near-brusque and near-instant, but the fare suffered not at all-steamed Thai dumplings were frilled purses plumped with shrimp, pork, and vegetables, served with a zesty dipping sauce. Tom Kha Gai (chicken coconut soup) was a miracle of subtle flavor interlacings, smooth coconut milk cushioning pepper heat and filled with white chicken strips, baby corn, lemon grass, lime, and cilantro leaves, and those dark-capped little mushrooms that look like Disney dancers. Pad Woon Sen heaped an entrée plate with stir-fried glass noodles, chicken, and every vegetable known to the Pacific Rim, plus rice and a crisp-skinned spring roll, all for under $5. Even the iced coffee that is a Thai meal’s most fitting dessert was a time-saver; instead of wearing one of those drip caps that take forever to brew, it was ready-made and absolutely delicious. 1731 Greenville Ave. at Ross, 828-9795. Inexpensive to moderate.
Toy’s Cafe. Previously known as Thai Toy, this place specializes in vegetarian and seafood dishes, and is a good spot for informal, wholesome, and inexpensive eating. Don’t miss Toy’s mee grob, pinkish rice noodles studded with scallions and cilantro, deep-fried in a non-cloying sweet-and-sour sauce; or the deep-fried marinated shrimp fingers wrapped in rice paper. Soups, which feed two to four, are among Toy’s strongest suits. Scrumptious main courses begin with broad, soft, fresh rice noodles stir-fried with tofu, shrimp, or crab. Cash only. 4422-B Lemmon Ave., 528-7233. Inexpensive.
Tuppee Tong. Although you can order the food with the heat toned down, don’t. You’ll miss the punch of the peanut sauce that comes with the satays (appetizers of skewered chicken, meat, or shrimp) and the kick of the red curry chicken (made dally from home-grown spices). Balance the heat with a Thai salad of carrot, cucumber, and radish slivers in sweetened vinegar, and try one of the eight or so soups offered here in three sizes. Tuppee Tong translates as ’big golden spoon,” so keep in mind that portions are large. And, even better, prices are low. The Village at Collin Creek, 621 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 247, Plano. 509-7979. Inexpensive.
Vietnamese
Saigon Savour. The cuisine at this restaurant combines Mediterranean and Asian influences, but the San Francisco owners have not yet realized that Dallas palates are used to piquancy. The dishes we tried were lightly seasoned to the point of blandness. Ground shrimp, wrapped around sugar-cane sticks and grilled, held just a hint of the cane’s sweetness and were served without any sauce, perhaps by oversight. The green pepper soup, with sliced pepper, ginger, mushrooms, and carrot cubes, was more flavorful. Broiled snapper delivered none of the menu-promised curry nuance, but garLic-spiked noodles were chewy and pungent and fine. A green papaya salad came with a dangerous-looking, dark-red sauce that packed little heat but added great interest. Contrariwise, the Dungeness crab, roasted whole, and a split and charcoal-grilled pork chop had a lusty garlic presence. We also found ourselves wishing for vegetables, which the Vietnamese cooks usually prepare with finesse. The atmosphere at this newcomer is lovely-the room is decorated in plum, purple, and white, and the food is served on pretty china. Service is intensely caring. 17370 Preston Rd., Ste. 490, 380-2766. Moderate.
Tarrant County
Angelo’s Barbecue. Simply put. still Texas’ best barbecue. This legend has no feet of clay-and sadly, no sawdust on the floor. It’s been gone for years, thanks to the Health Department, but the ambience, the casual friendliness, and most importantly, the barbecue, remain. No frills here, just the basic best-tender beef and pork ribs, great sliced and chopped beef sandwiches. There’s also beer, beans, cole slaw, chips, pickles, peppers-all the traditional extras. Near downtown, it’s a favorite hangout for attorneys, cowboys, cops, mechanics, and business men and women, as well as families. Children abound. They take checks, but no credit cards. Beef and rib plates are served after 3:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. 2533 White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth. 817-332-0357. Inexpensive.
City Park Cafe. This TCU-area cafe with its small, intimate, and oddly shaped interior would be right at home in New York or San Francisco, cities where many great restaurants are tucked into odd spaces. The menu is American-Louisiana spicy chicken and fish, grilled steaks, good salads. The house salad is the thing to order. Several heart-healthy offerings are included on the menu, although good intentions can die in the arms of the sinful chocolate desserts. The waiters and waitresses have been the same for many years, lending an air of comfortable friendliness to an overall sophisticated image. Sunday brunches are excellent at this popular courting spot for adult couples. 2418 Forest Park Blvd., 817-921-4567. Moderate.
Daddio’s Downtown Nearly Jazz Cafe. Like the music its name celebrates, this cafe provides a constantly evolving riff on the theme of service-sometimes it’s faster than other times. But the Greek salad is the best in town, and the rest of the menu gives a unique Texas tone to classic Greek specialties. Breakfast and lunch except on Friday and Saturday, when you can also gel dinner and great music at night. 715 W. Magnolia. 817-926-7000. Inexpensive.
8.0 Restaurant & Bar. Once you’re inside the historic Knights of Pythias building-you know, the only building with a knight in full shining armor tucked into a third-floor niche above Main Street-you’ll find the mixture of old brick walls and funky new murals by Fort Worth artists creates a place at once warmly welcoming, even cozy, and yet cutting-edge. Singles love it. The waiters are sassy but efficient, and the food is good. The olivada crostini is an appetizer to die for, if you happen to like olives and garlic. The herb-crusted salmon is flaky and flavorful; the steaks made even a Stock Show crowd happy on our recent visit: and the pasta dishes pleased the vegetarians in our midst. Live music Thursday through Saturday nights. Ill E. 3rd St., 817-336-0880. Inexpensive.
Gaylen’s. The array of taxidermified hunting triumphs hanging on the walls of this restaurant correctly suggest its owner is an avid hunter; it comes as more of a surprise to discover the hunter’s name is Darla Tinsley. Appropriately enough, meat is king at Gaylen’s; a complete range of barbecue possibilities is offered, including beef, sausage, ham. pork loin, chicken, salami, and bologna. At a recent family dinner, melt-in-your-mouth ribs and flaky, moist beef got high marks, as did accompanying onion rings (the kind with the smooth, rather than flaky, breading). Forget the side dishes-get a sandwich and some onion rings if you’re really hungry, but under no circumstances should you skip dessert. Gaylen’s peach and blackberry cobblers are sensual experiences not to be missed-full of fruit, with a tender, flaky crust, served warm; vanilla ice cream is optional. 826 N.Collins, Arlington, 817-277-1945. Inexpensive.
Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. Probably the Fort Worth restaurant best known to Dallasites. Joe T.’s is an excellent example of mythology winning out over reality. Fort Worthers take their out-of-town guests here if they insist, but there is much better Mexican food to be had in Fort Worth (Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Bakery on North Main comes to mind.) However, if it’s atmosphere you want for a big party. Joe T.’s does an excellent job of feeding large groups decent food in record time. Mariachi players stroll among the diners and will take requests. On a nice spring night, Joe T.’s patio can’t be beat-it’s one of Fort Worth’s best outside dining experiences. Food is served family style and it rarely varies. Solid and dependable. Cash and local checks only. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth, 817-62&4356. Moderate.
Kowloon Seafood Restaurant Housed in an upscale shopping center in an Arlington neighborhood where virtually every business is Asian-owned, Kowloon Seafood Restaurant aptly represents exactly that-neighborhood Chinese-Vietnamese gone upscale. At lunch, dim sum is available, and the dinner menu lists familiar Chinese dishes as well as Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes, soups, and hot pots. At dinner we had acceptable, but not extraordinary spring rolls. However, the crab meat com soup could have been a meal itself: it was full of what tasted like fresh crab meat, with a rich, creamy base and a hint of heat balanced by the com flavor. A signature dish, vermicelli with charcoal-broiled shrimp wrapped in sugar cane, lived up to its rave word-of-mouth advance-seasoned shrimp are transformed into a flat piece of meat that is wrapped around a stalk of sugar cane and cooked, then served with a stack of rice paper wraps, spicy sauce, and a plate of fresh vegetables (greens, peppers, cilantro). ’You unwrap the shrimp from the sugar cane and make a sort of tasty Vietnamese fajita out of it with the sauce, vegetables, and the rice paper. 100 W. Pioneer Pkwy., Arlington, 817-261-6699. Inexpensive to moderate.
Lucile’s-A Stateside Bistro. Here’s the latest successful restaurant to occupy one of West Fort Worth’s landmark buildings-the old Finley’s Cafeteria, The funny wedge-shaped building that once supplied fresh homemade pies to its neighborhood is now feeding folks Lucile’s “American classics.” Pasta, wood-roasted pizzas, lots of roasted veggies, steaks, and sandwiches (including an excellent hamburger) as well as several entrees marked “heart healthy-keep patrons coming back for more. Friendly service, pretty presentation, consistently good food, a lively piano bar- what more can you ask of a neighborhood bistro? They’ll even feed you breakfast on Saturday and Sunday. 4700 Camp Bowie Blvd.. 817-738-4761. Moderate.
Ricksnaw Chinese Restaurant. No wonder Fort Worth’s East Siders have been keeping this a secret. This tiny restaurant tucked into a strip shopping center is nothing fancy, but the food is invariably tasty, well-prepared, and nicely served. Show up more than twice and they most likely will not only remember your name, but also your favorite order. You can’t go wrong with the house specials, the best of which is the Double Delight, made with shrimp in a white sauce and pork in a hot black bean sauce that will delight Texas palates seasoned on spicy Tex-Mex. They also make the best hot and sour soup in Fort Worth. No overheated buffet here; food is prepared fresh when you order, and it shows. Lunches are varied and quick, but go for dinner so you’ll have more time to savor the rich flavors. 1229 Wood Haven Blvd., Fort Worth. 817-496-6767. Inexpensive to moderate.
Star of Texas Grill. From its perch on the mezzanine of the Worthington Hotel, the Star of Texas looks out over the bricks of busy Main Street. It’s a quiet place to dine, with piano music often drifting up from the lobby bar and a decor featuring cedar fence posts artfully draped with ropes and cowboy hats. The food can best be described as Southwestern/Italian, ranging from pastas and hearth-baked pizzas to venison chili, nachos, and big beef steaks. Many dishes are given Fort Worth place names, such as North Side nachos. Thistle Hill salad, and Billy Bob’s shrimp cocktail. On our visit, the food tasted pretty good, but our waiter was clearly working too many tables, and service suffered. Our appetizers-Cajun popcorn shrimp and Texas bruschetta (Italian herb and sun-dried tomato bread with Dallas goat cheese and cilantro jalapeno pesto), meant to be served hot-arrived lukewarm at best, after the salads were served. The house salads, by the way. turned out to be the best part of the meal, fresh, crisp, and flavorful. I The Texas tacos also were served barely warm. My vegetarian companion requested lobster instead of chicken in part of her entrée, but after a very long wait, it arrived with-chicken. Again, the waiter was apologetic and eventually returned with the correct order, but by then we were | ready to leave. Starbucks house blend coffee is featured, and the cappuccino was very good. But with the many choices of good places to eat in downtown Fort Worth, the Star of Texas Grill is going to have to try harder than this. 200 Main St.. 817-882-1719. Moderate.
Water Street Seafood Company. This seafood restaurant’s been around for several years, but now finds itself smack dab in the middle of what has become University Park. Fort Worth’s hottest new shopping area. Regular customers worried that Water Street might go all trendy on us. But not to fear. The tastefully bare-bones decor, the wonderfully wacky wall mural behind the bar (featuring a cowboy riding a bucking fish), the daily specials, and the solidly good food have remained the same. The only sign of change is a new dining room to the south of the main room. The waitresses are friendly and usually quite knowledgeable about the menu. Specials change daily, always featuring some mesquite-grilled or blackened offerings, but any fish offered on special can be prepared any way the customer likes. Near the TCU campus. 1540 S. University Dr., Fort Worth. 817-877-3474, Moderate to expensive.
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