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Restaurant Reviews

Places to Meet & Eat: Our Critics’ Picks
By D Magazine |

Barbecue

Red, Hot & Blue. This restaurant promises Memphis blues and red-hot barbecue, and it delivers. Go for the “wet-smoked pork ribs and add the dry seasoning that’s at every table, but beware of the blisteringly hot “hoochie-koochie” sauce on the table. The baked beans, with green pepper and onion, were tangy but the cole slaw was bland; we wondered if someone forgot the dressing. New potato salad, however, was chunky and firm with the right mix of egg and seasoning. 9810 N. Central Expwy. at Walnut Hill Lane. Ste. 600, 368-RIBS or fax 373-FAXS for orders to go. Inexpensive.



Sonny Bryan’s. The basic barbecue sandwich plate remains as fresh and new as the day the late Sonny first lit the fire in the barbecue pit: tender, flavorful meat piled on a soft bun. accompanied by wondrously spicy sauce, smoky beans, and cole slaw with a hint of tartness. The onion rings are to be treasured, a crusty shell around a soft, piping hot. sweet onion. The food may be as good at the new locations, but like an old hometown, the gritty ambience of the original must be visited from time to time. 2202 Inwood Rd.. 357-7120; and other locations. Inexpensive.



Brewpubs

Breckinridge Brewery. This sleek, woody establishment, much larger than the mother ship in Colorado, comes with the slightly irritating supply-before-demand trappings of success: T-shirts and other Breckenalia are for sale, before you even thought to ask. But the confidence may be well-founded. Besides being one of the prettiest brewpubs so far (the humongous beer-can collage is art. damn it), at least two of the five beers-India Pale Ale and Oatmeal Stout-are first-class creations. To wash down your drink, try the superb prawn appetizer, then move on to duck enchiladas, fish tacos, or the pulled pork sandwich. The brew-pub sweepstakes are getting crowded, and the winner is- well, stay tuned. 1907 McKinney Ave.. 965-0007. Inexpensive.



Copper Tank Brewery. Deep Ellum’s first brewpub. which has one door on Commerce and another on Main, boasts the longest bar in Dallas, and we don’t doubt it. Every time we asked our waitress for something-beer, water, more beer, pizza, more pizza-she seemed to vanish into another time zone before languidly returning with our request. Our beer choices proved to be a mixed lot-a flaccid ESB, a zingy raspberry, a decent brown ale-that on the whole didn’t live up to the excellent pesto-coated pizzas. Perhaps competition (at least two more brewpubs are said to be bound for Deep Ellum) will light a fire under this sleepy crew. 2600 Main St.. 744-2739. Inexpensive.



Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen. 1701 N. Market St, 651-0808. Moderate.



D REVISITS The Rock Bottom Brewery. Food at this popular Addison brewpub is much like the dark wood-and- brass place itself: upscale, tony, and surprisingly good. Generous appetizers could make their own meal, especially the asiago cheese dip or signature green pork chili. Pizzas arrive lava-hot on cracker-thin crust; try the bourbon beef (with homemade steak sauce] or double-smoked bacon (with spinach, goat cheese, and roasted garlic). Smoked chicken enchiladas were some of the best we’ve tried-really. Alder-smoked salmon and chips sounded good, but came out bland. How’s the beer? Thought you’d never ask. Six regular brews range from ultra-light (Coyote Western Ale and Palomino Pate Ale) to deep and roasty (Pelican Brown Ale and our fave, Roadrunner Stout). Falcon Red is a nice compromise. Families, singles, and couples mesh seamlessly as waiters hustle cheerfully-but beware Thursday nights, when Polo-reeking 20-somethinES prowl. 4050 Belt Line Rd., 404-7456. Moderate.

Routh Street Brewery and Grill. For starters, try the musky, rich mushroom soup and a heaping bowl of buttery ale-steamed mussels. Fried fish and chips were hearty and crisp and the Wiener schnitzel is huge and delectable. A hickory-grilled half chicken was to swoon over, accompanied by horseradish-scented whipped potatoes and a rosy pear-and-red cabbage melange. The beer is also noteworthy. Try the sampler of five two-ounce servings that will help you settle on one to drink with your dinner. The desserts, however, were disappointing-the spiced apple strudel’s crust has a toughness reminiscent of microwaved pastries. 3011 Routh St., 922-8835. Moderate.

Two Rows Restaurant & Brewery. 5500 Greenville Ave., Ste. 1300, 696-2739. Moderate.

Yegua Creek Brewing Co. 2920 N. Henderson Ave.. 824-BREW. Inexpensive.

Burgers/Casual

Care Nordstrom. You’d think that Nordstrom was known for its food instead of its renowned shoe selection. You’d think you were going to wait in line forever. But you’d be wrong on both counts. Nordstrom’s legendary commitment to customer service shows in this casual, third-level, in-store eatery. The backbone of the Cafe is sandwiches and salads, and the kitchen staff gets kudos for preparing fresh, high-quality stuff (great muffins). The grilled Italian sandwiches called panini come loaded and the California blend of vegetables, cheese, and pesto makes a perfect lunch. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., third level, 702-0055, ext. 1610. Inexpensive.

Chip’s Old-Fashtoned Hamburgers. You loved it on Central. You’ll love it on Cole. Chip’s award-winning burgers are as good as ever served at the new location in the turn-of-the-century structure that was built as a Baptist church. The classic hamburger is a messy, delicious concoction. Seasoned fries, chicken sandwiches, grilled cheese, and salads are good, simple-if fattening-fare. 4501 Cole Ave., 526-1092. Inexpensive.

Mac’s Bar & Grill. 2301 N. Central Expwy., Piano, 881-2804. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Pub. Where else but in the men’s department would you expect to find Nordstrom’s The Pub, with plenty of beers on tap and balls bouncing on every television? Keeping in mind that the British aren*t exactly known for their food, this restaurant turns out some pretty respectable grub, like meat-filled pasties (a British pie), bangers (sausages), light, good homemade mashed potatoes, and greaseless fried fish and chips (little potato wedges). Salads offer a good excuse to polish off the basket of scones and soft chile-tinged breadsticks with them. Opt for the bread pudding instead of the less-than-authentic triffle. 13350 Dallas Pkwy.. first level, 702-0055, ext. 1620. Inexpensive.

Snuffer’s. Every so often someone publishes the number of fat grams in a serving of Snuffer’s cheese fries, and we all pretend to be shocked-shocked!-and swear never again to let those straight-from-Satan munchies pass our lips. But inevitably we give in. Snuffer’s has a limited menu, but it’s hard to go wrong with burgers, the chicken sandwich, or the chicken Caesar salad. Go early on weekend nights, as the crowds build quickly. 3526 Greenville Ave., 826-6850; 14910 Midway Rd., Addison, 991-8811. Inexpensive.

Cajun/Creole

Cafe Margaux. Crestpark Hotel, 4242 Lomo Alto Dr., 520-1985. Moderate to expensive.

Copeland’s of New Orleans. 5353 Belt Line Rd.. 661-1883. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2615 Commerce St., 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Lone Star Oyster Bar. There are restaurants for all seasons, and this is a summer place. Bring together raw oysters, big schooners of cold beer, hot days, and excellent background music (e.g. Springsteen’s “Triunder Road”) and the result is that pleasant manana spirit that seems to pervade certain Greenville spots. While we don’t fear Galveston Bay oysters, some do. (“I’m watching my mercury, “quipped one of our party as he declined a mollusk.) The cautious can opt for the tasty [though rather skimpy) blackened catfish or halibut, or the decent fried shrimp. Don’t miss the hush puppies, perfectly deep-fried with a hint of onion. We could have used some crispier crackers for the oysters, and we question the authenticity of the mounted sailfish on the walls (OK, maybe we’re jealous), but everything else is the real thing. 3707 Greenville Ave., 827-3013. Inexpensive.

LuLu’s Bait Shack. Cajun cuisine with regional nuances ranging from hot to hotter. Buffalo shrimp are hotsy-totsies nicely balanced in a blue cheese dip, and jambalaya carries a major kick. For tamer tongues, try the Chicken Rockafella with oysters, cheese, and spinach. Homey mashed Mardi Gras pasta is a mixture of fresh vegetables with capers and sun-dried tomatoes, while a lunch trip’s oyster po-boy proved a happy marriage of corn meal-battered oysters with tomato, lettuce, and mayo, the plate fetchingly sprinkled with paprika. One warning: The house drink is a 96-ounce fishbowl containing various types of alcohol, served with a plastic alligator and several straws. Share with friends, or the bon temps may rou/ez all over your head. 2621 McKinney Ave., 969-1927. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chinese

Cathy’s Pacific. At this ambitious offshoot of Piano’s Cathy’s Wok, Chinese-American dishes dominate the menu along with “light and healthy” entrees. Appetizers both hit and miss-meaty honey-garlic wings start a meal well, as do skewers of satay chicken, but pot stickers disappoint with their nondescript filling, and beef satays are tough. Seafood dishes are a good bet here, and the single best item might be the Vietnamese bouillabaisse, loaded with savory king crab, plump shrimp, miniature clams, and seaworthy scallops. Cathy’s uses top ingredients, from jumbo nuts in the cashew chicken to the crisply sauteed vegetables in the spring rolls. Note: Food can be ordered moderately hot. hot. or extra hot. Go with hot. 5950-A Royal Ln., 739-3378. Inexpensive to moderate.

May Dragon. 4845 Belt Line Rd.. 392-9998. Moderate to expensive.

New Big Wong. This comfortable eatery is not so “new’ anymore: in fact, it’s been well over 10 years since Big Wong, lost in a fire, was transplanted to Greenville. No matter. If you’re up for a quick and tasty lunch, this place delivers large portions of fare in fast-food time-you’ll be astonished. If a more leisurely dinner is the object, the complex menu rewards experimentation: walnut shrimp, bean curd with crab meat, eggplant with minced pork in a feisty garlic sauce, and more esoteric offerings. Service is cheerful and language is no barrier; ask and they’ll explain. 2121 S. Greenville Ave., 821-4198. Inexpensive.

Szechwan Pavilion. Peking duck aficionados love the fact that this classic Chinese entree is available at Szechwan Pavilion anytime, in half or whole portions, without the customary need to call ahead and order it. Tableside. waiters brush the delicate pancakes with hoisin sauce, then layer on perfectly roasted duck, crispy skin, and wisps of seal-lions, and present the rolled-up treats on a platter ringed with slices of orange. Between bites, you’ll notice lots of regular customers greeting each other in this tranquil, soft-pink setting punctuated with black lacquered chairs. Top-quality ingredients star here, from the fat shrimp in the vegetable-loaded sizzling rice soup to the juicy roast pork in the lo mein. Szechwan beef, marked as spicy, had just the right amount of burn. The ’wonderful shrimp” would be more wonderful if they weren’t coated in a soggy batter, but they sure are big, butter flied beauties. 8411 Preston Rd., 368-4303. Inexpensive.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line Rd.. Ste. 200. Addison. 387-2333. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s. When it opened more than 10 years ago, Uncle Tal’s earned massive acclaim, but lately it’s been coasting too much on its reputation. The “two delicacy” cold platter spunkily begins a meal, especially if it teams slivered chicken in an assertive sesame sauce with peppercorn-topped tender prawns, but meals can slide rapidly downhill to candy-sweet “hot, spicy shrimp” and over-tenderized chicken with cashews. Spring rolls start off well, with a greaseless crisp crunch, but the filling remains a mystery. The setting, overlooking the wannabes on The Galleria’s ice skating rink, offers more enjoyment than the food does. In The Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 934-9998. Moderate.

Coffeehouses

Java Island. 3020 Legacy Dr.. Ste. 270. Piano, 491-1695. Inexpensive.



Java Jonas. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave.. 528-2099. Inexpensive.



Deli

Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. 127 Preston Forest Village, 373-3333. Inexpensive.



Street’s. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave,, 526-2505. Inexpensive.



Eclectic

Deep Blum Cafe. The menu descriptions here do not do the food justice-the Dagwood sandwich conjures up images of a piled-high sub, but it arrives gooily warm, a gourmet knife-and-fork treat, with an unmentioned side salad (like perfectly ripe fruit salad topped with strawberry puree) that fights for equal attention. Desserts, also homemade, are so rich that a bite or two suffices, although the chocolate terrine positioned on a butter-rich caramel sauce can lead you, trance-like, back for a few more bites. This eclectic menu borrows from cuisines all over the globe and pays plenty of attention to vegetarians. 95001 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 392-0894. Inexpensive to moderate.



East Side Grill. Chef Tony Knight, whose Aransas Pass restaurant formerly occupied this space, offers down-home dishes endowed with kicky accents that lift them above common bar food. Notable examples: Chicken-fried steak came with terrific twice-baked mashed potatoes and a healthy stir-fry of vegetables. An Aransas burger was a patty of broiled sirloin with roasted poblanos and onions and jack cheese. The 10-ounce strip steak was gilded with onion braised in Jack Daniels sauce. The homemade salsa that accompanies the chicken quesadillas can make your eyes water from 4 feet away, and fried pickles were surprisingly delicious in nicety seasoned, greaseless crumb crust. 2916 N. Henderson Ave., 828-2801. Inexpensive.



8.0 Restaurant and Bar. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St.. 979-0860. Inexpensive.



Fox and Hound. Although the restaurant calls itself an “English Pub and Grill,” don’t look for toad-inthe-hole here. Despite the silly British names that dot the menu, m’lord will encounter hearty half-pound burgers, steak fries, enormous onion rings, rich beer-cheese soup, pasta, blackened salmon, and prime rib. The beer list offers more than 100 labels both in bottles and on draft. Gut white the food is good, the service on two visits was extremely slow and inattentive. 18918 Midway Rd., 732-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.



Garden Court. Every dish on executive chef Randy Richins’ menu is main-course generous. Of the appetizers, go for the pepper-seared scallops against mixed greens garnished with skinless orange and grapefruit sections and avocado in a raspberry vinaigrette. The soup of the day on our visit, gorgonzola-spinach cream, was smooth, rich-flavored, and memorable. Two disappointments: The wild mushroom penne was so tasteless that our waiter, notic-ingour displeasure, offered to let us select something el se. After we declined, he took the dish back to the kitchen and returned with a much-improved meal with a richness of seasoned fiavor. Another poor selection was the mushroom sandwich, an unredeemable disaster dominated by the strong onions, which eclipsed any gen tier accents. Abreast of chicken in honey and tangerine juice had more character. On the whole, the Court’s pleasures far outweighed the disappointments. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., third level. 702-0055. ext. 1628. Inexpensive to moderate.



The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave., 828-1981. Moderate.



Plano Cafe, Not a good start-park in a strip mall, enter Piano Cafe’s lobby where a table offers autographed photos of celebrities, and wait to be seated until the young hostess completes her personal call. Luckily, it’s all uphill from there, starting with the tasty, house-made, lightly crusty rolls and a simply prepared, flavor-packed onion soup. Choose the mixed green salad instead of the Caesar, and opt for the zingy raspberry vinaigrette. A feast of perfectly cooked vegetables accompanies each generous meal, and most people leave loaded with leftovers. Juicy, freshly grilled roast chicken with red pesto penne draws loyal fans, and vegetarians will find much to choose from. Two more surprises: a decent wine list and a winner of a dessert list. A warm French apple pie (homemade, like everything else here) accompanied by homemade Chambord/Frangeilco ice cream, whipped cream, and berries, offers caloric heaven. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Ste. 500, Piano, 516-0865. Moderate.



Sipango. Meals start off promisingly at Sipango, where tables are packed with the impossibly young, thin, and trendy. They dip morsels of the excellent fine-crumbed crusty bread in oil and peruse the very thorough wine list. After that, it’s hit or miss, with food that often looks better than it tastes. Sauteed shrimp-corn cakes contain lots of rubbery shrimp and a stray kerne! or two of corn; the accompanying lime aioli lacks zip. So does the much-praised Caesar salad’s dressing. The best choices seem to come from the grill or the pizza oven, and a pizza topped with juicy grilled chicken, applewood smoked bacon, and mushrooms nicely combines both. 4513 Travis St., 522-2411. Moderate.

French/Continental

Addison Cafe. Prestonwood Place, 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 991-8824. Moderate.

Calluaud’s Bistro. 5405 W. Lovers Ln., 352-1997. Moderate.

Chez Gerard. This quintessential little French restaurant with its flowery wallpaper, lace curtains, and cozy feel brings to mind your grandmother’s dining room. However, Grandma never cooked like this, and she sure didn’t offer wines like these. The classic French onion soup, crowned with toasted bread and melted cheese, makes a nicely sized, thoroughly satisfactory appetizer; as does a zesty dish of mixed seafood with avocado and lime. The heady-with-mustard dressing coating the tender greens and wisps of mushroom make the house salad a winner and perk up the palate for what follows. The menu is resolutely French, with intensely flavored crawfish souffles, delicate beef in a wonderful peppery sauce, and the best pommes frites around. Desserts, from the cloud-filled praline souffle to the crusty creme brulee, should never be skipped. 4444 McKinney Ave.. 522-6865. Moderate.

The French Room. In the Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce St., 742-8200. Expensive.

La Petite Maison. The young and enthusiastic Robert Barone, the chef-owner of this new restaurant, has made a good start with this daring venture. From our first thrilling spoonful of soup to the last plate-scraping nibble of chocolate creme, Barone’s fare was beautifully prepared, presented, and served. Take the lobster bisque, for example. Its deep auburn color hinted at its lush, splendid flavor. Also good was the seafood starter of smoked salmon, scallops, and shrimp flung with capers and green onion. The “Grand Mere” oven-roasted chicken, sprinkled lavishly with hearty smoked bacon squares, was served with carved potatoes and tiny onions. The pork medallions zinged with Dijon mustard and a side of garlic whipped potatoes and baby carrots, while roasted rack of lamb featured three rib chops on a bed of toothsome couscous spiced with subtle curry. The dessert we tried-silken chocolate creme under a tepee of fragile pastry triangles rooted in whipped cream and a layer of raspberries-was a dramatic creation. The only selection we haven’t enjoyed so far is a gingerbread and ice cream dessert that lacked finesse. 2917 Fairmount St., 8550700. Moderate.

Le Charrdonnay. Restaurateur Michel Baudouin’s same-name Dallas spin-off of his Fort Worth establishment serves the same menu as the original. Yet the two could hardly be more different physically. The western Le Chardonnay is merry and casual, while the Dallas version strikes a serene, urbane note. At both locations, M. Baudouin’s French fare is modulated to appeal to Texas palates. Black bean soup and beef tenderloin sauced with jalapeno and cilantro are popular favorites, as is a rather sweet tart featuring apples with purple, green, and Vidalia onions on sturdy pastry. A pan-seared veal chop with port sauce was flavorful. Finish it all with a lighter-than-air serving of Floating Island. 500 Crescent Court, Ste. 165, 922-4555. Moderate to expensive.

OH Warsaw. Romance is on the menu here, with its candlelit atmosphere, unobtrusive service, and strolling violinists. The menu is solidly Continental and features lots of tableside preparation. The lobster crepe, packed with cubes of sweet meat, makes an excellent appetizer, as does the rich, creamy Brie soup. Entrees include braised pheasant, rack of lamb, and sweetbreads. Crab-stuffed tenderloin, a favorite choice, is meltingly tender and a visual delight. The wine list is excellent, and you’ll have plenty of time to study it if, as often happens, you’re shown to the bar for a lengthy wait until your table’s ready. 2610 Maple Ave., 528-0032. Expensive.

The Pyramid Room. That vastly overused word, opulence, has to be hauled out yet again here-the Fairmont Hotel’s flagship restaurant demands it; here is service and ambience that beggar less extravagant description. The food, too, on our visit, deserved superlatives, albeit not quite as glowing ones for the prix-fixe menu [four courses. $29 sans wine) as for pricier a la carte selections. Grilled quail halves were pretty little things on Marsala-glazed arugula leaves; cream of turnip soup with toasted pumpkin seeds was too subtle (read: bland) to stir excitement, but grilled snapper with shiitake mushrooms in lobster butter sauce was satisfying. Macadamia nut torte was a dense disappointment, particularly compared to a companion’s a la carte dessert indulgence-a gooey dome of warm chocolate polenta filled with caramel, on bourbon-laced sauce with vanilla ice cream. The courses preceding that sin were stellar, too- duck confit was tenderness itself in a wine-poached pear; lobster bisque was satin-rich and cognac-Hissed; herb-crusted rack of lamb, four rosy baby chops, came with chevre-sharpened mashed potato and jewel-pretty vegetable pearls on rosemary mint sauce. The companion’s tab passed the $50 mark, but you could hardly ask for more cosseting or more comfort at any price than that provided by this serenely cosmopolitan restaurant. Great wines, too, and live music. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 720-5249. Expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood Rd? 351-0094. Expensive.

Waters. This homey little restaurant, half of it an art-filled cozy interior and half an enclosed patio, might have been lifted, menu intact, right off a Paris or Brussels side street. The menu features brains, rabbit, and sweetbreads for sophisticated customers, but also plenty of pasta, grilled fish, and vegetarian dishes for the less brave. And a filling appetizer of toast rounds served with a zesty eggplant relish and an intense tapenade is a steal at $3.50. As enticing as these regular favorites are. don’t miss the daily specials, like heaps of incredibly tiny mussels in a cream-enhanced garlicky broth. Another nice touch: a cheese plate for dessert, with a haif-dozen types of perfectly ripe cheeses, carefully trimmed fruit slices, and a freshly heated basket of bread. On lazy Sunday afternoons, customers can order from Waters regular lunch menu or opt for one of the brunch specials. 1923 McKinney Ave.. 7200323. Moderate.

Gourmet to Go

Betty’s Brisket and Gourmet Foods. Former attorney and self-taught cook Monte Bond named Betty’s Brisket after his mom; his tiny, spanking-clean take-out shop specializes in her recipe for brisket and turns out some seriously good food at easily affordable prices. Choices abound-you can order brisket or turkey (both are lean and tender) as a meal complete with mashed potatoes, a vegetable, and bread; as sandwiches on wonderfully homey, soft potato rolls: as complete dinners for four or by the pound; or pick the weekly special or one of the many salads. But, as good as the meals are, be prepared for killer desserts and appetizers, including an excellent lemon tartlet. Both the tapenade and goat cheese spreads delight, as does the chile-chicken egg roils and the mushroom and leek crescents. 17390 Preston Rd., 931-9094. Inexpensive.

Eatzi’s. Okay, it’s not a restaurant, but the prepared foods and breads you can buy here make it worth frequent trips to turn a meal in your own dining room into a special occasion. Make your way to the bread shelves, where you’ll find 14 varieties and enough spreads and fillings to make you dizzy. At the salad counter, just describe the salad of your dreams and they’ll toss it together. For an effortless meal, try one of the chickens from the wood-burning oven, a steak from the butcher’s counter, or one of the dozens of prepared foods. The quality of the deli meats is unsurpassed. 3403 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-1515. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Spiga. You may have to track down La Spiga. tucked away in a warehouse area, but it’s well worth the effort. The owners trekked all through Europe on a search for the best breads and returned home to open this quaint bakery/cafe that specializes in preservative-free bread. Customers line up to buy these rustic, crusty loaves, and the bread is being served at many of the finest restaurants in town. But there’s plenty more being dished up here, including tureens of homemade soup (excellent cream of mushroom] and sandwiches on big, soft pillows of panini rolls. Mini-quiches and fruit plates fill the bill for anytime snacks, focaccia comes pizza-style, and Caesar salads are a garlicky hit. And the service? When a baby-carrying customer requested a highchair, co-owner Ray Williamson quickly dispatched an employee to the furniture store across the street. The baby was happily drooling on it minutes later. 4203 Lindberg Dr.. Addison, 934-8730. Inexpensive.

Marty’s. Marty’s, long the king of gourmet shopping in the Dallas area, has recently come under siege from trendier rivals, but this venerable Oak Lawn institution remains a solid, reassuring respite from the competition’s haughty glitz. Call us quaint, but we much prefer Marty’s friendly, non-snob ambience to the “do-usa–favor” din of frantic newcomers. Sample new Italian cheese, low-fat Vietnamese chicken salad, or “Ann’s Marinated Shrimp” in Marty’s relaxed cozy aisles. Browse the tapenades, flavored olive and grapeseed oils, vinegars and vinaigrettes, marinades, aromatic coffees and teas, sumptuous, girth-enhancing chocolate truffles, and delicate sorbets. Marty’s hallmark, though is service; their wine experts, for example, field questions from beginners and savants with equal aplomb and courtesy. Just one thing…make the new dining area look a Iittle more like you mean it? Please? 3316 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-4070. Inexpensive to moderate.

Greek

Kostas Cafe. Alight, lemony flavor underscore s the sagana-ki, a creamy, mild cheese that’s breaded, fried, and served in flames, and the dolmas bulge with their rice and meat filling. The ever-popular spinach and feta cheese pie called spanakopita can be ordered either as an appetizer or entrée, and it packs a light, airy mouthful of flavor. Skip the dreary salads and move on to a gyro sandwich packed with lamb and beef, or kabobs starring succulent grilled pork tenderloin. Combination platters offer the best way to sample the menu, and be sure to peruse the wine list, with 21 wines available by the glass. The homemade rum cake may not be an authentic Greek dessert (don’t worry, there’s also baklava). but it packs a tasty punch. 4621 W. Park Blvd., Piano. 596-8424. Moderate.



Ziziki’s The gleaming wooden bar might be one of the places to be seen in Dallas, but it’s the food that reigns supreme here. An order or two of Ziziki bread (homemade pita bread broiled with two cheeses and herbs) teams well with any of the carefully crafted salads. Lamb and shrimp star here (the lamb souvlaki. skewered lamb ready to be popped into homemade pita bread, makes a can’t-be-beat sandwich), and the homemade Italian cream cake ends meals on a sweet note. The wines, chosen from all over the globe, demonstrate the owners ’ never-ending quest for the best. You’ll want to visit the new coffee bar/take-out shop for some of your Ziziki favorites (like their mouthwatering sauces). 4514 Travis St.. Ste. 122, 521-2233. Moderate to expensive.



Home Cooking

Barbec’s. 8949 Garland Rd.. 321-5597. Inexpensive.



Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Ln., 351-5681. Inexpensive.



Mecca. On a recent visit we found the quality of the highly touted Mecca breakfast had slipped considerably. The gravy was downright thin and tasteless, and you can get eggs, grits, hash browns, and bacon cooked this competently at a number of places. Biscuits are harder to find, though, and the Mecca’s are certainly acceptable-fluffy and hot, but not remarkable. But this veteran establishment can’t be beat for atmosphere: it’s got the feel and the look of a truckstop diner, except it’s clean and bright and offers a nonsmoking section (and has enough nonsmoking customers, apparently, to make that distinction more factual than symbolic). 10422 Harry Mines Blvd., 352-0051. Inexpensive.



Poor Richard’s Cafe. Located in a strip shopping center in East Piano, this country cafe has been serving families and working folks for more than 20 years. The menu has a range of stout breakfast and lunch offerings. In the morning, the signature BBQ Omelet is a Western-styte delight and the pancakes are light and fluffy. The waitresses are plentiful, courteous, and efficient. 2442 Avenue K at Park Boulevard. 423-1524. Inexpensive.



Indian

Bombay Cricket Club. Though we’re easily fooled about the nuances of cricket (the game], the food here is definitely cricket with us, especially the incendiary chicken ven-daloo, the soothing saag paneer (chunks of homemade cheese in creamed spinach), and the curry-kissed aloo bertgan. which combines eggplant, potatoes, onions, and tomatoes. Having heard raves about the leg of lamb from the tandoor, we’re saving it for the next round, or inning, or chukker. or whatever they call it. 2508 Maple Ave., 871-1333. Inexpensive to moderate.



India Palace. 12817 Preston Rd., 392-0190. Moderate.



Italian

The Adriatic. The Italian food here is complemented by the high caliber of the service and the tranquillity of the setting, which includes live (and blissfully quiet) piano music. Start a meal with the excellent steamed clams in garlic broth or the Caesar salad-fresh, but needed more of the excellent croutons and shredded cheese. The rack of lamb, perfectly cooked, was a treat with heaping sides of zucchini and carrots and the garlic-laden scalloped potatoes. The pepper steak special is a tender, tasty meat-feast sided by a nicely braised cabbage dish that’s not often served today. Expect generous portions here and peruse the wine list, which impresses with its variety and reasonable prices. Bargains abound on the lunch menu, which features everything from a fruit and cheese platter to crab and cannelloni. The restaurant also has a regal, yet welcoming bar. This may just be the neighborhood spot we all seek for a romantic dinner or to unwind from the workday. 19009 Preston Rd., 248-2500. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr., 521-3585. Moderate.

Angela’s Italian Grill. Hew to the spicier side of the menu- clams in red sauce over linguine, say, or Pasta Romano with Italian sausage, pepperoni, olives, and Roma tomatoes over penne-and you’ll be fine. Entrees in the white-sauce family, however, can be cloyingly rich, as was a three-cheese pasta on a recent visit. The Gorgonzola. Parmesan, and fontina swamping the linguine lost their individual tastes in the creamy sea. and only a heavy application of red pepper helped us finish half the plate. But given the affable service, reasonable prices ($7.95-$12.95), and generous portions, we’ll be back-with fingers crossed. 6341 La Vista Dr.. 823-5566. Inexpensive.

Campisi’s Egyptian. 55610E. Mockingbird Ln.. 827-0355. Inexpensive.

Cappellini’s. Garlic alert! Be warned that this restaurant specializes in the use of garlic-the chicken Caesar salad s garlic-haunted dressing will keep you safe from vampires for a long time. Another Cappellini’s trademark is the large portions: everything from the giant salads to the mouthwatering pasta to the homemade desserts will satisfy at least two people. The Tuscan salad is big enough for three and is a clever combination of fresh greens, thinly sliced apples. Gorgonzola, toasted walnuts, and sun-dried tomatoes, all laced with a commendable balsamic vinaigrette. The lasagne is unique-served in rolled single layers with a tomato sauce enriched with cream. Before you leave, Stop in the restroom. where you’ll find water coolers filled with much-needed mouthwash. 3820 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 488-9494. Moderate.

Ciao Bella. The very menu begins the seduction with its mouthwatering description of the cuisine of Chef Tommaso’s Italian home of Bologna; when our dinner was served, the loving, handmade care with which Tommaso recreates his home cuisine brought joy to our palates and fueled the culinary romance. An appetizer of baked artichoke filled with veal, ricotta, spinach, and herbs seemed somehow to expand to more than the sum of its flavor components once it reached the tongue, and linguine with clams, herbs, garlic, and white wine did not disappoint. The star of our meal was a special, peppered salmon in brandy sauce, which was flaky and oh-so-smooth. with just the right amount of pepper kick. 3232 McKinney Ave., 871-2074. Inexpensive to moderate.

Flip’s Wine Bar And Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave.. 824-9944. Moderate.

Joey’s. Every dish we saw or sampled here was beautifully composed on the plate and only three were less interesting than they looked-an avocado pancake, Joey’s Nutty salad, and cappellini-crusted salmon. On the plus side, Joey’s serves a delicious rotisserie-roasted duck with fresh raspberries and richly seasoned wild rice. Also good is the fazzoletto. a tissue-thin pasta handkerchief folded around arugula, spinach, and ricotta cheese. The shrimp and crab cheesecake with pesto was mouthwatering. Desserts were anticlimactic after the meal, but the seven-layer cheesecake and house tiramisu are pleasant. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave.. 526-0074. Moderate to expensive.

Mi Piaci. The artful, minimalist decor, complete with soaring, twisted columns, makes for an upscale setting, but Mi Piaci’s food would taste great anywhere. You have to like a restaurant that bakes its own breads (including killer breadsticks), cures its own olives, and grows its own herbs. Pasta, which you can watch Mi Piaci’s chefs roll, shape, and cook, never fails to please, especially the earthy fusil-li with wild mushrooms. The menu always offers at least four types of made-to-order risotto, a classic Italian, labor-intensive, meltingly tender rice dish; along with Italian standards such as osso buco and veal scaloppine. For a knockout alternative, sample the mammoth, juicy, grilled pork chop, served with velvety sage-laced mashed potatoes, pungent oven-dried tomatoes, and sweet roasted onions. Hefty portions of garlicky bruschetta Start a meal m style, and the lemon tart in a pistachio crust ends it on a light note. 14854 Montforl Dr.. Addison. 934-8424. Moderate.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. This eatery plays like an Italian opera, from the soprano highs of the al dente homemade pastas to the baritone lows of its strip-mall decor. The pizzas (the menu lists two dozen mouthwatering versions) achieve perfection, with crusts that retain their crispness. topped with the freshest brush of tomato sauce and the softest puddles of mozzarella. The stuffed pastas, like lasagne, rotolo verde, and spinach-filled ravioli, satisfy the heartiest appetites, and a pungent parsley pesto enlivens the complimentary focaccia. So far, excursions onto the second! piatti (second course) list haven’t met the expectations created by what precedes it. There’s no wine list, so bring your own Chianti. Be sure to end your meal with a slice of the chocolate mousse cake MoMo’s wife makes, or one of the many ice cream selections, each crowned with homemade whipped cream. 9191 Forest Ln., 234-6800. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nicola’s. It took four visits to this smoothly polished Italian gem before we could bear to order anything other than their killer quatro stagioni pizza (divided into four sections of artichokes, mushrooms, prosciutto, and tomato/basil). The pizza dough, like the homemade breads, gets its distinctive crunch from a high-heat stint in the wood-burning oven in this smartly designed restaurant’s exhibition kitchen. Homemade mozzarella graces the pizza, as well as several of the pasta dishes, like the lush lasagne special layered with chicken and spinach. Minestrone starts the meal in a hearty fashion; it’s a better choice than the lacklus-ter salads. A bottle of Antinori Chianti complements Nicola’s food perfectly, and dinners end best with a dish of homemade gelato (rich ice cream]. Be careful, however, if you order the focaccia Nicola appetizer. You’ll never stop with just one order. The Galleria, third floor. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 788-1177. Inexpensive to moderate.

D REVISITS Pomodoro. Cedar Springs Boulevard is a far cry from the rolling Tuscan hill-Side evoked by Pomodoro’s alfresco seating, but even after a decade, the place still exudes its own trendy, noisy charm. Besides, where else could you toast the downtown YMCA jcggers tromping past during lunch? Plenty of indoor seating in the tiled dining room, too. but if you’re a non-smoker, ask to sit far, far away from the smoking section. Gently melted buffalo mozzarella wrapped in grilled rugo-la makes for a nice start: so does the carpaccio with capers and lemon. Polio Pizzaiola is tender and tasty, if a mite salty; clever pasta dishes like fettucine with lobster or pap-pardelle with sausage are fun and feisty, but could be more substantial for the price. Speaking of which, is it just us, or do the specials seem high? Service is uniformly excellent-Pomodoro still bends over backwards to please, and it shows. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd., 871-1924. Moderate.

Ruggeri’s Ristorante. 2911 Routh St., 871-7377. Moderate.

Tramontana. Marvelous starters include the marinated goat cheese, peppered and nestled on top of herbed greens. Those same greens shone in a mesclun salad strewn with chunks of walnuts and tart goat cheese. We also savored the soups-deep-flavored French onion was topped with fine Gruyère cheese and the haricots vert nave a strong, fresh presence in the creamed green bean potage. Entrées exceeded our expectations. Pan-seared salmon was transcendent, bathed in a tart caper sauce and served with grilled polenta and steamed spinach. Ditto on the ravioli stuffed with spinach and mushrooms and on the super-plump filet mignon sauced with Cabernet and sided with crunchy green beans and rosemary potatoes. The desserts are made in-house. but the bread is from Massimo’s. Preston Center’s got itself a winner. 8220B Westchester Dr., 368-4188. Inexpensive to moderate.



Japanese

Hana. We give Hana high marks for authenticity, from the sushi bar to the tatami room to the stacks of Japanese newspapers and magazines available for their customers’ perusal. The Sashimi’s predictably good, especially the flavor-packed salmon, although the sushi list should explain just what things like “Texas rol ” consist of for those of us who don’t know. Both the lunch and dinner menus offer bento boxes, Japan’s version of a combination platter, and these taste impeccably fresh. The crisp tempura shrimp and vegetables have only recently emerged from their hot oil bath: the chicken or beer in teriyaki sauce are minutes off the grill. Extra care has even been given to the salads, with slices of real Japanese cucumbers and flecks of grated ginger in the dressing. 14865 Inwood Rd., 991-8322. Moderate.

Sakamoto. Ruisseau Village, 3309 N. Central Expy., 881-0328. Moderate.

Sushi at the Stoneleigh. Every bite we sampled was delectable, from the basic raw tuna, yellowtail, and salmon cuts to a more exotic spider roll of crunchy-cooked. soft-shell crab wrapped in seaweed and rice. Chefs-special baked mussels were divine, warmly b;anketed in the half-shell by a lush blend of mayonnaise and golden smelt eggs. The salmon roe on seaweed-wrapped rice burst voluptuously on the tongue. Don’t forget appetizers: The miso soup, with hidden cubes of silken tofu, and gently pickled emerald seaweed were delightful. 2927 Maple Ave., 871-7111. Inexpensive to moderate.



Kosher

DREVISITS Deco’s By Arthur. Don’t be put off by the nondescript strip mall location; Deco’s by Arthur, in the northwest quadrant of Preston and Forest, is an absolute treasure. Enjoy complimentary garlic-laden pizza crusts while browsing the eclectic menu, ranging from falafel to jambalaya to grilled salmon-reflective of Deco’s origins as a successful catering business. Try a dally special-baked corvina on curry rice with roast-ed-pepper sauce was as good a dish as you’d find at any expense-account palace, and half the price. La Jolla salad sprinkles fresh greens with sun-dried apricots, cranberries, almonds, and diced apples in an oil-free raspberry vinaigrette. “Signature” pizzas, named after movie stars (deco-1930s-gel it?) feature Wick, toasty crusts, fresh, fresh, fresh, ingredients like caramelized onions, roasted, smoked peppers, portobello mushrooms, spinach…aab! Friendly, fast service, too. Two caveats-Deco’s is vegetarian (except for fish), so don’t expect burgers or chicken, and second, the staff keeps a spotless kosher kitchen (cool) and hours (closed on Friday night and all day Saturday). 1418 Preston Forest Square. 788-2808. Inexpensive.

Mediterranean

Adelmo’s. Our last dinner at Adeimo’s might have been prepared in two separate restaurants, course by course. A starter of lobster ravioli was a lively, lovely affair, the tender pasta pillows plump with toothsome filling in a spicy vodka tomato sauce. Salmon tartare was a soupy mess- innocent snippets of fresh, raw pink lost in a near-liquid amalgam sparsely studded with onion and too many capers. The specialite de la maison grilled veal chop was perfect as always, an awesome cut splendidly browned outside, juicy and luscious inside, large enough for two. A day’s special grilled trout was innocence betrayed again, by an unnecessary assault of strong accent elements-dried cherry tomatoes, capers, pickled artichoke hearts, and mushrooms, all laid on in a florid over-treatment that overwhelmed Une delicate, sweet trout meat’s flavor. 4537 Cole Ave., 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Istanbul. 5450 W. Lovers Ln., Ste. 222, 902-0919. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mediterranee. 18111 Preston Rd., Ste. 120. 447-0066. Moderate.

Sambuca. At the gorgeous new Addison location, deep, inviting booths with animal prints, a high-tech-bar area, and a forest-scene mural all create a wild atmosphere that is good for people-watching and enjoying live jazz. Compared to this noise and color, Sambuca’s menu seems almost restrained. To start off a meal, the spinach salad with a sun-dried cherry vinaigrette and the appetizer pizzas get high marks. For the main course, the specials seem more assertively flavored than the regular menu items. For dessert, dive into the rich Romana Sambuca cake, which is drenched with anise-flavored liqueur. 15207 Addison Rd., Addison. 385-8455. Moderate.

Vincent’s Home Cooking. Mediterranean specialties such as dolmades, hummus, and baba ghanoush share equal space on the buffet table with salads and a variety of meats. Plus, don’t forget a slice of the homemade bread. The feast, which includes a selection of desserts such as chocolate cream pie, costs as little as $5.95. 2574 Walnut Hill Ln., 351-1860. Moderate.

Mexican

Cantlna Laredo. 8121 Walnut Hill Ln., 987-9192. Inexpensive.

Casa Rosa. Traditional Mexican dishes are offered, but so are dishes that put a California-type spin on classic Mexican by adding things like goat cheese, wild mushrooms, and mesquite-grilled red snapper. The interior appeals with its giant murals, spot-lighted plants, and a muted, comforting decor. The peppery salsa and thin, crisp tortilla chips awaken appetites, and flawless service moves meals along smoothly. Nicely grilled meat stars in the tacos al carbon, and chicken enchiladas come packed with shredded meat and topped with a subtly smoky red sauce. Good, creamy flan stars for dessert, although “topped with fresh fruit” is a stretch for the lone, fanned strawberry. 165 Inwood Village. 350-5227. Inexpensive.

Cenadurla Mexicans. This restaurant’s goal is to offer authentic homemade Mexican-not Tex-Mex-food. It achieves this through such offerings as the barbacoa. a Mexican pot roast, that is served weekdays only. You get a generous plate of fork-tender beef mixed with onions, chiles, and tomatoes. With the basket of tortillas, it’s a roll-your-own feast. The side of beans gets high marks for the smoky flavor and a hint of what we suspect is beer in the juices. Unfortunately, bland is prevalent here. The que-sadillas could be fed to a baby with their tasteless white cheese and tortillas-they need some jalapenos, chopped onions, anything. The soupy salsa served with chips before the meal can be tongue-tingling one day and bland the next. Chicken gorditas, a better choice, still need to be doused with salsa. Breakfast is also served until noon each day with nothing over $4.95. Cenaduria is sure to get regulars coming to see the mariachis and ballet dancers perform. 2013 Greenville Ave., 827-1494. Inexpensive.

Chuy’s. 4544 McKinney Ave., 559-2489. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hying Burro. Bringing his own style of New Mexico-Mex to Dallas, owner Scott Cain has a neat sense of the cuisine’s essential basics. To Texas tongues, the most alien dish on the menu will probably be Winnie’s Killer Queso, a dark, spicy, burn-the-baby melange of peppers. The fried jalapenos-uncommon )y crisp and pickled, are filled with vinegary chicken and cheese, all hot as hell. The Burro’s sauces, in red or green, are gentler on the tongue and add the right spice to the chicken and New Mexican enchiladas. Be wary, however, of the posole, which had been overcooked and oversalted when we visited. The pounded chicken breast also had been baked too long. Overall, the restaurant makes a happy addition to the casual dining scene. 2831 Greenville Ave., 827-2112. Inexpensive.

Javier’s Gourmet Mexicano. Start by dipping chips into the warm, piquant green salsa, wash them down with handmade margaritas, then opt for tart, fresh ceviche while you ponder: Barra de Navidad. enormous fresh shrimp sauteed m diablo sauce (coffee, orange juice, tomato), or delicate Snapper Mojo de Ajo in garlic and lime, or mouthwatering Filete con Champinones (steak with mushrooms and brandy)? Decisions, decisions. 4912 Cole Ave., 521-4211. Moderate.

La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th St., 941-4304. Inexpensive.

Mattito’s. Chicken quesadillas, listed as an appetizer, qualify as a full meal, and are much tastier than the grilled vegetable nachos (broccoli on a nacho?). Go for the spinach enchiladas with their zippy green sauce, and don’t miss the chile rellenos, topped with the usual sauce, cheese, and sour cream, but also with chopped pecans for crunch and raisins for sweetness. The fajitas and tacos are standard fare; save your calories For the homemade flan and sopaip-illas instead. Mattito’s bar packs a lively crowd, and lunch bargains abound, with specials ranging from $4.95 to $6.95, including a foot-long enchilada with beans and rice and two versions of chicken-fried steak. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave., 526-8181. Inexpensive.

Matt’s Rancho Martinez. We’ve hopscotched across Matt’s menu for years, trying the seafood platter (shrimp, frog legs, catfish], the veggie fajitas (a nice culinary oxymoron), the ’old-fashioned” chalupas. and more, but we’re always drawn back to the trademark chile rellenos. Get them topped with ranchero or green sauce; either marries nicely with Monterey jack cheese, sour cream, raisins, and pecans. The only down notes: The tortilla soup is curiously zingless, and the “Cowboy drunk” beans that accompany many dishes are, while fat-free, almost taste-free as well. 6312 La Vista Dr., 823-5517. Inexpensive.

Mia’s. No question-Mla’s would be a prime member on anyone’s list of classic Dallas restaurants. For 14 years, this venerable institution has dished up definitive Tex-Mex food to addicts who stand in line on Tuesdays, when owner Ana Enriquez satisfies their lust for her incomparable chile rellenos. Other days, they make do with a menu of house specialties, combo plates, and sides that read like standard Tex-Mex on paper, but on the palate translate into transcendent fare. Try the bean soup, a truly noble amalgam of pintos with minced chiles, bacon, onion, and cilantro accents, miles richer in flavor than prissy upscale black-bean concoctions. Fork into a cheese enchilada crowned with honest beefy chili, or a soft cheese taco’s tenderly molten heart. Ladle the bracing house salsa onto a bean-spread chalupa or a beef-filled taco. and savor the texture contrasts of greaseless tortilla shells and fine-ribboned lettuce. Service is cheerful, the setting is no-frills comfortable, and long-loyal habitues will tell you: You might pay more other places, but you won’t get better food. One note: The restaurant serves only beer and wine. 4322 Lemmon Ave., 526-1020. Inexpensive.

Monica’s Aca Y Alla. 2914 Main St,, 748-7140. Moderate.

Piano Tortilla Factory & Cafe. Not exactly around the corner, not much atmosphere, and no alcohol served, but this little authentic Mexican joint will have you eating to the belt-loosening stage. Your best game plan: Arrive after 11 a.m., when your meal will start with free, fresh corn-tasting chips, spicy salsa, guacamole, and pico de gallo. Buttery tasting chicken quesadillas, stewed pork-filled taquitos, and a split corn tortilla stuffed with inch-thick cubes of tender chicken team up nicely for a generous a la carte meal that would satisfy any linebacker, and would still leave enough from a 10-spot to pay for dessert and a drink. Combination plates, complete with rice and beans, average about $5. Make sure to take home a copy of the menu-this place does big take-out business. 1009 £. 18th St., Piano. 423-6980. Inexpensive.

Tupinamba. Eddie Dominguez’ family has been in the restaurant business for 30 years, so he’s trying to uphold the family’s reputation. He has risen to the occasion. Meals commence with tortilla chips and a zesty bowl of salsa- fiery one day, almost tolerable the next. Nachos are crisp with shredded chicken and cheese, and the shrimp cocktail combines fresh shellfish with a drinkable gazpacho soup/sauce. “Tupy” tacos, although deep-fried, are hard to stop eating. Two small disappointments-the sour cream enchiladas were bland and the fajita salad was topped with dry chicken and an uneventful vinaigrette dressing. Desserts are definitely worth ordering. 12270 Inwood Rd., 243-2355. Inexpensive.

Middle Eastern

All Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave.. 8238235. Inexpensive.

Natural/Health

D REVISITS Dream Cafe. This Quadrangle eatery is the living embodiment of the notion that location, location, location determines success. The location of its patio on the north side would alone assure a great dining experience-evening diners can sit in indirect-sunlit comfort and view a bubbling fountain, grassy lawn, flowers, and trees. This pastoral setting seems particularly appropriate for the Dream Cafe’s menu of nightly pasta and chicken specials-on our visit, one with the tongue-twisting name of chicken with feta-calamata olive relish-salads, and sandwiches. You can’t go wrong ordering corn cakes, with a hot peanut dipping sauce and grilled shrimp, or the vegetable enchiladas of spinach and wild mushrooms with ancho sauce and melted Jack cheese. However, a grilled chicken breast sandwich came on a regrettably dry sourdough bun. The Dream Cafe’s famed breakfast menu remains an intriguing cross-solid egg dishes to entice the power-breakfast crowd, and granola for those who want to start the day on a more spiritual, healthful note. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St.. 954-0486. Inexpensive. Second Location: For starters, we tried summer corn cakes that were served as thin-edged pancakes stuffed with spicy corn kernels along sidegreens topped with a drizzle of Thai peanut sauce. Fried tomatoes were a down-home treat. The T-bones served with wonderful mashed potatoes and sauteed vegetables could not have been better. However, the “giant mushroom ravioli” were undercooked, the pasta unpleasantly doughy, and the inside contained a mass of minced mushrooms that lacked both flavor and texture. Another dish of Gulf shrimp, button mushrooms, scallions, and smoked bacon served over cheese grits and topped with two over-easy eggs amounted to less than the sum of its parts. The delicate grits were drowned in the olive oil that the other components had been sauteed in and the rather wooden bits of bacon offered the only hint of crispness the dish sorely needed. From the sandwich list, the cheese steak, with tender beef filet, sweet peppers, onions, and mozzarella was all we’d hoped. 1133 N. Zang Blvd., 943-6448. Inexpensive to moderate.

Fresh ’N Lite. The name can be a little misleading-the menu does offer a lot of fat-free foods, but this place is out to please everyone, so the menu includes burgers, croissant-based sandwiches, and even corn dogs. Most popular are the enormous bowls of salad in 13 varieties. The Caesar features perfectly grilled chicken, olives, and onions, and makes a satisfying meal, although the accompanying pasty white rolls need improvement. Save room for a hot fruit cobbler. 6150 Frankford Rd., 713-8167. Inexpensive.

New American

Americana. Meals here start with crusty slices of bread just waiting to be dipped into a roasted garlic and sun-dried tomato aioli. The silky wild mushroom and cheese chowder is decadently rich. The knockout appetizer, though, was the smoked ham and Brie ravioli. Served in a bowl soup-style, their rich broth enlivened by fresh corn, herbs, and tomato nuggets, these ravioli tuck intensely smoky ham and earthy Brie between rustic homemade layers of pasta and create an unbeatable meal. The inventive appetizers set the stage for equally tasty entrees such as roast chicken (pure comfort food gone upscale, with heavenly whipped potatoes and spinach) and peppery beef tenderloin comes with a wealth of caramelized onions and morels. Now if they’ll just warm up the cold, almost clinical atmosphere. 3005 Routh St.. 871-2004. Moderate.

Antares. The Hyatt Regency’s sky-flung revolving restaurant, long marked by mediocre food that failed to live up to its soaring view, appears to be finding its wings at last- chef Jeff Dover’s menu almost consistently delivered delights on our recent visit. Starters were particularly outstanding-huge, meaty, seared sea scallops, pearly-white within, were sparked with chile-peanut dressing; grilled beefsteak tomatoes, and earthy shiitake mushroom caps wore dollops of melted queso fresco in a to-die-for roasted shallot vinaigrette. An entree of grilled tiger shrimp mounted toothsome guard on a peppery bed of lemon-spiked fettucine in garlic butter. Sauteed salmon was less memorable only because its seasoning was too timid-the filet was fresh and perfectly cooked, but held little excitement on its bed of totally unseasoned rice; what flavor the plate afforded came from the grilled Granny Smith apple slices and applejack sauce that were both blander than expected (a seasonal thing, perhaps?). Desserts were one up-a tongue-tingling Key lime pie. really terrific-and one down-warm peach-walnut cobbler, made with canned peaches, for God’s sake, sans walnuts as far as we could tell and far too sweet. And the view? How blase do we have to be before seeing the city do a slow 36CkJegree pirouette below us fails to be enchanting? Valet parking, by the way. Is complimentary via the maitre d’s stamp. Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion Blvd., 651-1234. Expensive.

Anzu. 4620 McKinney Ave., 526-7398. Moderate.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Ct., 871-3240. Moderate.

Cafe Sierra. This casual, unpretentious restaurant offers dishes that combine Italian, Spanish, Greek, and Middle Eastern cuisines with Southwestern accents. About the most exotic dish on the menu is a portobello mushroom and zucchini sandwich grilled on rosemary focaccia bread with provolone spread, wild greens, and a sliced tomato. Happy tartness comes through in prosciutto-studded lin-guine and in moist grilled swordfish spiked with hearts-of-palm vinaigrette on a bed of seasoned couscous. A trio of marinated pork chops dripping in their brown-grilled juices would be comfort food anywhere. For dessert, a country tart with three types of berries in a flaky crust looked as good as it tasted, and the chocolate layer cake was a beautiful wedge of dark-brown sin. 2900 Greenville Ave., 827-1813. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Ln.. 351-2233. Moderate.

Dakota’s. Start with an appetizer sampler or warm homemade breads and the addictive fried, cayenne-spiked onion shreds as you peruse the menu, which includes plenty of items marked as “lighter fare.” Choices from the wood-burning grill never disappoint, but a recent daily special was especially intriguing-colorfully striped, smoked moz-zarella ravioli showered with sweet crab and sauteed bell peppers with a light garlicky sauce to tie all the elements together. Bargain-seekers will love the $15.95, three-course “twilight menu” offered daily, with choices that might include a first course of venison sausage quesadil-las followed by roasted salmon and chocolate pecan pie. 600 N. Akard St., 740-4001. Moderate.

Huntington’s. You’ll forget that you’re In a hotel-the comfortable wing chairs, the simple-but-elegant centerpiece of a single Gerbera daisy floating in a water-filled bowl, and the oh-so-discreet service will remind you more of family get-togethers at your wealthy Aunt Edna’s. Good news, though-this is one of the best places in Dallas for a reasonably priced, reliably good meal. Lobster bisque smoothly and richly delivers the very essence of lobster, best enjoyed as you wolf down the lightly crusty rolls slathered with garlic-studded whipped butter. Don’t miss the meaty crab cakes (offered as an appetizer or entree), and end your meal with a knockout of a crusty creme brulee. Watch out for the tame salad dressings, though. Even Aunt Edna would demand something perkier than these. Westin Galleria, 13440 Dallas Pkwy., 851-2882. Moderate to expensive.

Landmark Restaurant. A day’s-special starter, on our visit, topped a crisp-edged potato pancake with a single huge seared sea scallop and zipped the pairing with caviar-caper remoulade. Another sandwiched a succulent grilled shiitake mushroom between Roma tomato halves, crumb-coated and fried, on baby greens dressed with basil-balsamic vinaigrette. Both were luscious, as was a haonting-ly smoky tomato soup dolloped with pale green basil cream-a made-in-heaven marriage of flavors and hues adorned by a flash-fried basil leaf. An entree of charred rare ahi tuna was stellar stuff indeed, the thick, meaty cut crisp-seared on the outside, its heart rosy-dark and tender; its accompanying warm salad Nicoise was studded with pressed kalamata olives that provided spirited accent to the gentle smoothness of the dressing, a vintage balsamic vinegar and saffron aioli. The warm cardamom spice cake shared for dessert was a trifle dry, but the red pear coulis and vanilla creme fraiche that dressed it redeemed it as well- 3015 Oak Lawn Ave.. 521-5151. Moderate to expensive.

Laurels. In the Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr., 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creak. We’ve never spent a more pleasant evening nor been more tenderly served than at the Mansion on this most recent visit. Nor had better food-the near-brashness that has at times marked chef Dean Fearing’s cuisine as more showy than soul-satisfying has been polished into a sophistication and balance that justify the international recognition he has received. Take two starters: A mammoth orange-caramelized sea scallop partnered divine flash-seared foie gras on a duck confit crepe with blackened turnip slices and gingered currant sauce; and risotto perfumed with Oregon truffles offered gentle counterpoint to pesto-glazed shrimp with tomato essence and grilled zucchini salad. A request to split an entree was honored without a murmur of condescension, and the ranch-reared antelope proved adequate for two, a substantial cut, rare and honey-glazed on a hearty posole stew gilded with roast yellow tomato, punctuated with barbecued venison fajitas. A less costly tasting menu ($65 complete} was as outstanding-bay scallops on deep-flavored fennel puree with basil-creamed noodles: a curl of warm lobster and shrimp fritters with celery root in a salad dressed with truffle-tomato vinaigrette; pan-fried golden trout so succulent its layers slipped apart like satin, with parsley potatoes, black trumpet mushrooms, a crunchy bouquet of minced parsnips, young asparagus, and green beans completing the plate. Hang the cost. Go there. Do that. And don’t be dismayed if you mention wine by the glass and the sommelier drops you like a stone-it’s just his way. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 559-2100. Expensive.

Maple Avenue Cafe. This restaurant is a particularly happy instance of urban evolution-the circa-1905 mansion has been revived, polished, and given new life, welcoming diners to a setting that retains the warmth the house must have possessed as a home. Furnishings, service, and culinary style are in sync with the transformation-the food is regionally keyed to home cooking, stylishly updated but basically familiar. Shrimp cocktail is on the menu alongside ceviche. Good crusty rolls accompany the soup of the day. a deep-flavored cream of mushroom on our visit. Oven-roasted natural chicken, Madeira-sauced, comes with garlic mashed potatoes; sauteed sea bass, petal-tender and moist, is served on ribbons of le m on-buttered fettucine. A peanut butter tart carries a rich chocolate surprise; almond cheesecake is densely textured and satisfying. The house by-the-glass Mondavi wines-cabernet, chardonnay. or zin-fandel-are surprisingly modest in price as, indeed, is the food: Entrees start under $10, and the most expensive (two pounds of steamed lobster) is less than $20. 2616 Maple Ave., 871-1181. Moderate.

Nana Grill. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel tower. 2201 Stemmons Fwy., 761-7479. Expensive.

Natchez. Southern hospitality is warmly dispensed here, in surroundings that suggest a large home’s dining room. The food’s markedly Southern, too-even tortilla soup, that Southwestern cliche, was gumbo-thick, dusky, and decidedly piquant. The small menu’s potato cakes, delicately crisp-skinned, were lapped in a sweet honey-mustard sauce; the king cake, a tender patty of chopped scallops, crawfish, shrimp, and salmon, came on a tangy tartar sauce, garnished with cilantrc-kissed chopped tomato. Stuffed chicken breast was two half-breasts filled with crawfish and white cheese, bound together for cooking, then bedded on subtle cilantro pesto cream, Corn-crusted catfish, a huge filet, emitted a to-die-for fragrance and tasted as good with its unexpected beurre blanc sauce. But the big surprise of our visit was an outstanding creme brulee, its sugar-shell top still warm and crackling beneath the spoon, ft blew us away. 2810 N. Henderson Ave., 821-4552. Inexpensive to moderate.

Yellow, With new chef Christian Svalesen, a new seafood-rich menu that displays his talents, and lowered prices. Yellow scores a triple play. The potent little pots of garlic butter make it easy to polish off the crusty bread as you admire the crisp, clean decor-a white palette accented with clear, bright blue and, of course, yellow. You’ll find almost as many appetizers as entrees, and here, finally, is a restaurant that does both equally well. The best appetizer ranks among the best in town-a crab cake packed with Dungeness crab, lightly crusted, perched on a tantalizing coriander sauce. Among the lunch choices is a winner of a grilled salmon club sandwich, although it’s impossible to eat without a knife and fork. The dinner menu includes tasty options, like duckling in blackberry sauce, for those who don’t like seafood, but make sure that someone at your table orders the aptly named pyramid of sword-fish. 2719 McKinney Ave., 871-1772. Moderate.

Seafood

Cafe Pacific. Magical food: a starter of lime-seasoned ceviche was as tony as the clientele, an extravagance of lobster and shrimp chunks with bay scallops, all bedded on jicama matchsticks and deep-green ribbons of spinach. A day’s special entree starring Gulf red snapper was even prettier, the fish delicately moist inside a crisp corn-tortilla crust atop a fine, crunchy salsa balancing tart tomatillo and sweet diced pineapple. The too-sweet nubbly crust on a warm apple crisp dessert overwhelmed its firm, fresh fruit filling, but the vanilla bean icecream that crowned the whole affair helped cut the sweetness, as did bracing I espresso. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston Road and 1 Mockingbird Lane, 526-1170. Moderate to expensive.

Daddy Jack’s. Try steamed Manila clams, plump fresh things, their sturdy feet clinging stubbornly to shells, freckled with minced garlic crunch in dippin’-good broth. Savor an entree-sized appetizer of fresh mixed salad greens bedding meaty portobello mushrooms overlapped with ripe peeled tomato slices drizzled with Balsamic vinaigrette. Share a snapper and lobster tail special, sauced with spicy beurre blanc that nips you with warm afterburn-but only with someone you love enougn to let him or her nibble at your big baked potato and sweet, barely steamed corn on the cob, One safe bet: Nobody goes home from here hungry. Or feeling neglected, either. 1916 Greenville Ave.. 826-4910. Moderate.

Elghteen-0-One. Owned by well-known caterer Daryl Richardson, this West End eatery in the Dallas World Aquarium features a superb, aquatically inspired menu reflecting the four regions from which the aquarium’s fish hail. Start with the warm bread and a cup of Daryl’s famous corn chowder, a spicy blend of fresh corn, peppers, and chunks of potatoes in a creamy base. Some of the international delicacies include coconut shrimp, quesadilla del Dia, sate of the day, and an Australian grilled sandwich. Or try one of the house specialties such as the grilled Caesar salad or crab cakes. Top it all off with ice cream and a homemade brownie. You’ll have to pay the admission fee for the aquarium in order to get to the restaurant, so plan some extra time to tour the museum, either to work up an appetite or walk off your meal. 1801 N. Griffin St., 720-2224. Inexpensive.

Joe’s Crab Shack. 3855 Belt Line Rd.. Addison. 247-1010. Inexpensive to moderate.

Lefty’s. Although the menu is small, Lefty’s features everything you’d expect a good lobster house to have, including beef for those who don’t like seafood. Soups come in thick, white mugs; a disk of a cracker covers the top to keep the steam in. Choose the clam chowder and steer away from the metallic-tasting lobster bisque. Of the appetizers, the smoked salmon with bagel chips or the steamed clams would make a nice meal. So would the crisp house salad, paired with a crab cake and its good dilled tartar sauce. Baked shrimp, stuffed with baby shrimp, crab, and cracker crumbs, are served perched in a wickedly good sauce. The service gets mixed marks, but the wine list is promising. One false note: The sauce on a daily special of seafood diablo lacked spiciness, though the plate was heaped with clams, lobster, mussels, and shrimp. One big bargain-the one-pound lobster with baked potato and corn for $10.95. 4021 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 774-9518. Moderate.

Mainstream Fish House. Preston Forest Shopping Center, 11661 Preston Rd., Ste. 153, 739-3474, Moderate.

Newport’s. 703 McKinney Ave., 954-0220. Moderate.

Remington’s Seafood Grill. The menu here has its highs and lows. Crab cakes are nicely meaty, teamed well with fresh chopped slaw and skin-on fries. However, scoops of margarine, not butter, accompany the baskets of good bread and the baked potatoes, which are further insulted by promised chives. Skip the clam chowder in favor of the sprightly Caesar, and be sure to order the tiniest, tastiest dessert around, the $1.39 sundae-a mini-scoop of vanilla ice cream awash in caramel and fudge sauces, topped with chopped Hershey’s kisses. 4580 Belt Line Rd., 386-0122. Moderate.

The Roaring Fork. Fresh seafood, flown in daily, receives major emphasis here, from Blue Point and Malpeque oysters, divine in their briny liquor, to an Alaskan crab claw that made us wonder why some seafood is cooked at all. Worth the trip alone was the signature appetizer called Duck Cigars-Asian egg rolls holding braised duck leg meat spiked with jalapeno and citantro. A crawfish cake was less memorable, but crisp-skinned. Maytag blue cheese enlivened a wonderful salad with fanned pear slices and gave zip to the grits that came with the half-split, double pork chop and apple fritters. The nearest we came to disappointment was with the veal tenderloin th3t arrived as slightly overcooked medallions; the wild mushrooms in a brandied cream sauce overwhelmed the veal’s delicate flavor. However, the succulent swordfish steak coated with a horseradish crust found the perfect partners in its mustard cream sauce and wild rice cake. 14866 Montfort Dr., 387-3675. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave., 880-0111. Moderate.

Sea Grill. Asian accents are subtly woven into this seafood-intense menu, where every bite surprises-a touch of lemon grass in the iced tea, a splash of sake enlivening a black bean sauce. Don’t even bother with the menu if a lobster sandwich is one of the daily specials; just order it quickly before they run out. Hunks of sweet lobster meat tossed with a lemon/Dijon mayo make this open-faced sandwich a winner, and it’s served not only with fries, caraway seed-flecked slaw and slices of mango, but also with the good house salad. The setting may be strip mall-pedestrian, but the food, right down to the homemade desserts, transcends it. The orange cheesecake, as delicate as a mousse, ends a meal on a light, but flavor-intense note. Sea Grill even offers a wine list that does justice to its food (although the by-the-glass prices are steep). 2205 N. Central Expy. Ste. 180. Piano. 509-5542. Moderate.

Shell’s Oyster Bar & Grill. Despite its one big flaw-waiters that are blase about their duties-we couldn’t help but like Shell’s. Start with the peel ’n’ eat shrimp, a hefty portion of perfectly prepared crustaceans. One evening’s fish special turned out to be a tasty, perfectly cooked, thin cut of excellent swordfish teamed with lightly cooked vegetables and rice, but the grilled shrimp dinner with slaw and fries was even better. Cajun touches dot the menu from po-boys to red beans and rice, but Shell’s, hoping to establish itself firmly as a seafood restaurant, is off to a good start. The desserts need work, though, so try an after-dinner drink or cappuccino rather than the overly-sweet, pastry-less peach cobbler. 6617 Snider Plaza, 691-8164. inexpensive.

Southwestern

Lavaca Cantina. 14902 Preston Rd., Ste. 700 in Pepper Square, 458-0458. Moderate.

D REVISITS Loma Luna Cafe. The Southwestern craze is history-mercifully, however, the food isn’t. Loma Luna is still the standard-bearer, dishing up consistently fresh, piquant, Santa Fe-style cuisine, rich with smoky pecan wood flavor. For starters, treat trie kids to an appetizer of queso fundido. flamed tableside. or try the zesty roasted pepper-corn soup, always a winner. Salads are predictable; opt instead for the blue corn chicken enchiladas, Sandia Range pecan-smoked chicken, or the sublime shrimp diablo, stuffed with poblano peppers and cheese and grilled to perfection. And when nothing else satisfies like enchiladas, try either the “Christmas” (one chicken with green chile, one cheese with red pasil-la) or opt for trie plain ol’ beef-huge, spicy and not swimming in grease. Alfresco seating overlooks busy Preston Road and a parking lot; sit inside and enjoy the pinon-scent-ed ambience instead. 8201 Preston Rd., Ste. 100, 691-1552. Inexpensive.

Sam’s Cafe. Southwestern to trie max, this Tex/Mex blend aims to please. Pots of soft, poppy seed-studded bread-sticks stand ready to dip into their accompanying cream cheese/salsa mixture. Caesars take a Southwestern spin with spicy fried Strips of tortillas replacing the croutons, while the dressing remains perkily authentic. The “King Ranch Casserole,” a palate-pleasing mixture of chicken, corn tortillas, roasted peppers, cheeses, and onions, makes an excellent take-out dish for a dinner the whole family will love. Quesadillas, all five varieties, score high marks, although the ingredients need to be spread out more evenly. Regulars like the eight inventive pastas, and they also know that the poblano chicken chowder, with its sneaky little burn, is a must-order. Sam’s offers a good-sized bar, with a house specialty called the ’Grand Canyon’-a 32-ounce margarita. 8411 Preston Rd., Ste. 112, 739-2288. Moderate.

Star Canyon. Superchef Stephan Pyles has a gift for slipping happy little surprises into even the most mundane-sounding dishes. Garlic potato soup, for instance, hid crunchy niblets of mild garlic in its creamy depths, as well as golden cubes of baked sweet potato. A grilled quail was not only halved but boned on a first-course plate mounded with arugula that coyly concealed poached pear slices and zip-spiked Cajun pecans. Coriander-cured venison lived up toits legendary reputation, grilled rare and sliced into rosy petals complemented by whipped yam and an assertive dried fruit empanada; and pan-seared salmon staked its ’ own claim to stellar status sided with a musky black bean-roast banana mash fired with coconut-serrano broth. Even as simple a dessert as bread pudding departs from the commonplace here-the bread’s brioche, dark chocolate enriched: the sauce Is sambuca-scented in gentle milk chocolate; the combination of subtle flavors and smooth texture Is transcendent. Service was friendly and fast, as always, and we salute a wine list that covers a comfortable price range, as well as overall menu prices lower than many restaurants of lesser rank charge. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 520-7827. Moderate to expensive.

Spanish

Cafe Madrid. Forget dreaming of tapa-tasting your way through Spam after sampling the little plates here-at least in our experience, neither Barcelona nor Madrid offers anything to equal Cafe Madrid’s panorama of palate teasers. Apart from the house bread, which is totally undistinguished, every bite we sampled held pure delight. Besides the two dozen or so tapas always available, a daily changing blackboard listing of fers as many more, including everything from potato omelet to crisp-fried baby smelt, from wine-poached rabbit to blood sausage. Don’t shudder- that last is a near-religious experience, the dark, crisp-skinned sausage stuffed with rice and onion, filled with rich, meaty flavor, presented in double-bite-size morsels on herb-oiled cushions of bread. Try it with authentic Spanish manchego cheese, thin-sliced in crumbly mellow triangles, and stalks of white asparagus dressed with tomato-, onion-and green pepper-studded vinaigrette. If it’s a more conventional meal you’re after, a three-course dinner is offered nightly-cream of leek soup, veal stew, and a cream-filled liqueur cake on our visit, paella on Friday and Saturday evenings. 4501 Travis St.. 528-1731. Moderate.

Steakhouses

Bob’s Steak & Chop House. 4300 Lemmon Ave., 528-9446. Moderate to expensive.

Chamberlains Prime Chop House. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 934-2467. Moderate.

Dal Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House. 5251 Spring Valley Rd., 490-9000. Expensive.

Kirby’s Steakhouse. 3525 Greenville Ave.. 821-2122. Moderate to expensive.

Morton’s of Chicago. If you’re an unrepentant carnivore who just doesn’t care that huge slabs of juicy red rib-eye steak and chops of veal aren’t chic any more, Morton’s is for you-and your more nutritionally correct family and friends can enjoy lobster, shrimp, or chicken as well as simply prepared fresh fish. Understatement reigns here, from dark wood to etched glass, starched white linens, and muted Sinatra, and there are more than 30 martini varieties. 501 Elm St.. 741-2277. Expensive.

The Palm. Monster steaks and lobsters large enough to dance with (as waiters have demonstrated on past visits) are the main draw here, but veal, seafood, and poultry are featured, too. Prime rib on a recent visit was an overwhelming platterful, vast and lusciously rare in a crusty coating of seasonings; the veal chop sampled was less delectable, moist but decidedly chewy. These followed a warm appetizer of clams casino-on the half-shell, beneath a chop of celery, carrot, and garlic, topped with a crisp curl of bacon-and a cold one involving roasted pimiento blanketing iceberg lettuce under anchovy filets and many capers. Dressed with light vinaigrette, the latter is always fantastic: alas, though, instead of the usual quarter-head chunk of lettuce, the plate held a mere slice this trip-an odd place to cut corners, we thought. A side of green beans was fresh and crunchy; chocolate layer cake was fine. The most recognizable color caricatures of celebs, local and other, that cover the walls were fascinating as usual- although this was the first time we’d realized they were glued, rather than painted directly on the plaster. Tech! 701 Ross Ave., 698-0470. Expensive.

Paul’s Porterhouse. 10960 Composite Dr., 357-0279. Expensive.

Stone Trail. The creative appetizer list includes a crab cake combining a wealth of lump crab meet with zestful chile, served with a tangle of vegetables: catfish with green apple tartar sauce; and grilled goat cheese in grape leaves. The rest of the menu bears more typical steakhouse fare, including lobster and an astonishingly pricey free-range chicken. Beef, crusty and juicy, makes the best entree with cheese-rich potato casserole or chile-jazzed whipped potatoes on the side. At lunch, Stone Trail serves a wonderful quesadil-la that we’ll put up against any in town. Desserts change daily, but your best choice after dinner may be a drink or cappuccino in the beautiful knockout of a bar, where a jazz singer will entertain you. 14833 Midway Rd., 701-9600. Moderate to expensive.

Texas Land & Cattle Company. Night or day, this place jumps, and it has carved out its own Dallas niche with popular entrees liked smoked sirloin, mesquite grilled trout, and fried pickles. Meals begin with loaves of sourdough bread and a bucket of shell-on peanuts-plain or roof-of-your-mouth-bum-ing spicy. The shrimp cocktail, Caesar, and house salads are good starts. Then dive into the star attraction-meat. These thick slices of tender beef pair nicely with the heavenly skin-on homemade mashed potatoes, rich with garlic and pepper. But there are plenty of other choices from mesquite grilled shrimp to campfire chili. Don’t hesitate to fill up on the Steak and potatoes, because none of the desserts are worth the calories, so far. 3130 Lemmon Ave., 5264664. Moderate.

Thai

Chow Thai. This striking restaurant-with an eclectic atmosphere that includes lozenge-shaped lighting and light wooden chairs-amazes both the eyes and the mouth. The restaurant’s cooks and owner, who are from Bangkok, offer their customers authentic Thai fare with some exciting original dishes such as the Chow Thai duck, marinated in an exotic honey sauce, and yum pla muk, calamari served in a bed of fresh vegetables. If you choose items from the hotter side of the menu, cool off with Thai tea, a special blend with soy milk that is extremely soothing. Don’t let courteous, young waiters steer you away from the more exotic dishes. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 144.960-2999. Moderate.

D REVISITS Royal Thai. Eating here, we always feel as if we’ve been invited into the private home of some gracious Thai host. Impeccably furnished, accented with small lamps casting delicate pools of light, this is the prettiest (and on its best days, the best) of Dallas’ Thai restaurants. That old standby, lemon grass chicken, is skillfully executed-so light, yet so flavorful- but try less familiar items, too. On a recent visit, one entree of crab, scallops, fish, shrimp, squid, and peppers on curried rice drew literal cries of delight from the lucky first-time diner, who had to be told thai even greater pleasures waited on the menu. If there’s a drawback, It’s in the size of the portions, which are not large: consider appetizers if you’re really hungry. 5500 Greenville Ave. in Old Town, 691-3555. Inexpensive to moderate.

Thai-Thai. Here’s the place for inexpensive food that hits the high points of freshness and authentic seasonings as satisfyingly as more exotic Thai eateries. A near-full house on our last visit made noon service near-brusque and near-instant, but the fare suffered not at all-steamed Thai dumplings were frilled purses plumped with shrimp, pork, and vegetables, served with a zesty dipping sauce. Tom Kha Gai (chicken coconut soup) was a miracle of subtle flavor interlacings. smooth coconut milk cushioning pepper heat and filled with white chicken strips, baby corn, lemon grass, lime, and cilantro leaves, and those dark-capped little mushrooms that look like Disney dancers. Pad Woon Sen heaped an entree plate with stir-fried glass noodles, chicken, and every vegetable known to the Pacific Rim, plus rice and a crisp-skinned spring roll, all for under $5. Even the iced coffee that is a Thai meal’s most fitting dessert was a time-saver; instead of wearing one of those drip caps that take forever to brew, it was ready-made and absolutely delicious. 1731 Greenville Ave. at Ross. 828-9795. Inexpensive to moderate.

Toy’s Cafe. Previously known as Thai Toy, this place specializes in vegetarian and seafood dishes, and is a good spot for informal, wholesome, and inexpensive eating. Don’t miss Toy’s mee grob, pinkish rice noodles studded with scallions and cilantro. deep-fried in a non-cloying sweet-and-sour sauce: or the deep-fried marinated shrimp fingers wrapped in rice paper. Soups, which feed two to four, are among Toy’s strongest suits. Scrumptious main courses begin with broad, soft, fresh rice noodles stir-fried with tofu, shrimp, or crab. Cash only. 4422-B Lemmon Ave.. 528-7233. Inexpensive.

Toppee Tong. Although you can order the food with the heat toned down, don’t. You’ll miss the punch of the peanut sauce that comes with the satays (appetizers of skewered chicken, meat, or shrimp) and the kick of the red curry chicken (made daily from home-grown spices). Balance the heat with a Thai salad of carrot, cucumber, and radish slivers in sweetened vinegar, and try one of the eight or so soups offered here in three sizes. Tuppee Tong translates as “big golden spoon.” so keep in mind that portions are large. And, even better, prices are tow. The Village at Collin Creek, 621 W. Piano Pkwy., Ste. 247. Piano. 509-7979, Inexpensive.

Vietnamese

Saigon Savour. The cuisine at this restaurant combines Mediterranean and Asian influences, but the San Francisco owners have not yet realized that Dallas palates are used to piquancy. The dishes we tried were lightly seasoned to the point of blandness. Ground shrimp, wrapped around sugar-cane sticks and grilled, held just a hint of the cane’s sweetness and were served without any sauce, perhaps by oversight. The green pepper soup, with sliced pepper, ginger, mushrooms, and carrot cubes, was more flavorful. Broiled snapper delivered none of the menu-promised curry nuance, but garlic-spiked noodles were chewy and pungent and fine. A green papaya salad came with a dangerous-looking, dark-red sauce that packed little heat but added great interest. Contrariwise, the Dungeness crab, roasted whole, and a split and charcoal-grilled pork chop had a lusty garlic presence. We also found ourselves wishing for vegetables, which the Vietnamese cooks usually prepare with finesse. The atmosphere at this newcomer is lovely-the room is decorated in plum, purple, and white, and the food is served on pretty china. Service is intense ly caring. 17370 Preston Rd., Ste. 490. 380-2766. Moderate.

Tarrant County

Angelo’s Barbecue. Simply put, still Texas’ best barbecue. This legend has no feet of clay-and sadly, no sawdust on the floor. It’s been gone for years, thanks to the Health Department, but the ambience, the casual friendliness, and most importantly, the barbecue, remain. No frills here, just the basic best-tender beef and pork ribs, great sliced and chopped beef sandwiches. There’s also beer, beans, cole slaw, chips, pickles, peppers-all the traditional extras. Near downtown, it’s a favorite hangout for attorneys, cowboys, cops, mechanics, and business men and women, as well as families. Children abound. They take checks, but no credit cards. Beef and rib plates are served after 3:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. 2533 White Settlement Rd., Fort Worth, 817-332-0357. Inexpensive.

City Park Cafe. This TCU-area cafe with its small, intimate, and oddly shaped interior would be right at home in New York or San Francisco, cities where many great restaurants are tucked into odd spaces. The menu is American-Louisiana spicy chicken and fish, grilled steaks, good salads. The house salad is the thing to order. Several heart-healthy offerings are included on the menu, although good intentions can die in the arms of the sinful chocolate desserts. The waiters and waitresses have been the same for many years, lending an air of comfortable friendliness to an overall sophisticated image- Sunday brunches are excellent at this popular courting spot for adult couples. 2418 Forest Park Blvd.. 817-921-4567. Moderate.

Daddio’s Downtown Nearly Jazz Cafe. Like the music its name celebrates, this cafe provides a constantly evolving riff on the theme of service-sometimes it’s faster than other times. But the Greek salad is the best in town, and the rest of the menu gives a unique Texas lone to classic Greek specialties. Breakfast and lunch except on Friday and Saturday, when you can also gel dinner and great music at night. 715 W. Magnolia, 817-926-7000. Inexpensive.

8.0 Restaurant & Bar. Once you’re inside the historic Knights of Pythias building-you know, the only building with a knight in full shining armor tucked into a third-floor niche above Main Street-you’ll find the mixture of old brick walls and funky new murals by Fort Worth artists creates a place at once warmly welcoming, even cozy, and yet cutting-edge. Singles love it. The waiters are sassy but efficient, and the food is good. The olivada crostini is an appetizer to die for. if you happen to like olives and garlic. The herb-crusted salmon is flaky and flavorful; the steaks made even a Stock Show crowd happy on our recent visit; and the pasta dishes pleased the vegetarians in our midst. Live music Thursday through Saturday nights. Ill E. 3rd St., 817-336-0880. Inexpensive.

Gaylen’s. The array of taxidermified hunting triumphs hanging on the walls of this restaurant correctly suggest its owner is an avid hunter; it comes as more of a surprise to discover the hunter’s name is Daria Tinsley. Appropriately enough, meat is king at Gaylen’s: a complete range of barbecue possibilities is offered, including beef, sausage, ham, pork loin, chicken, salami, and bologna. At a recent family dinner, melt-in-your-mouth ribs and flaky, moist beef got high marks, as did accompanying onion rings (the kind with the smooth, rather than flaky, breading). Forget the side dishes-get a sandwich and some onion rings if you’re really hungry, but under no circumstances should you skip dessert. Gaylen’s peach and blackberry cobblers are sensual experiences not to be missed-full of fruit, with a tender, flaky crust, served warm; vanilla ice cream is optional. 826 N. Collins, Arlington. 817-277-1945. Inexpensive.

Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Dishes. Probably the Fort Worth restaurant best known to Dallasites, Joe T.’s is an excellent example of mythology winning out over reality. Fort Worthers take their out-of-town guests here if they insist, but there is much better Mexican food to be had in Fort Worth (Joe T. Garcia’s Mexican Bakery on North Main comes to mind.) However, if it’s atmosphere you want for a big party, Joe T.’s does an excellent job of feeding large groups decent food in record time. Mariachi players stroll among the diners and will take requests. On a nice spring night, Joe T.’s patio can’t be beat-It’s one of Fort Worth’s best outside dining experiences. Food is served family style and it rarely varies. Solid and dependable. Cash and local checks only. 2201 N. Commerce St., Fort Worth, 817-6264356. Moderate.

Kowloon Seafood Restaurant. Housed in an upscale shopping center in an Arlington neighborhood where virtually every business is Asian-owned. Kowloon Seafood Restaurant aptly represents exactly that-neighborhood Chinese-Vietnamese gone upscale. At lunch, dim sum is available, and the dinner menu lists familiar Chinese dishes as well as Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes, soups, and hot pots. At dinner we had acceptable, but not extraordinary spring rolls. However, the crab meat com soup could have been a meal itself: it was full of what tasted like fresh crab meat, with a rich, creamy base and a hint of heat balanced by the com flavor. A signature dish, vermicelli with charcoal-broiled shrimp wrapped in sugar cane, lived up to its rave word-of-mouth advance-seasoned shrimp are transformed into a flat piece of meat that is wrapped around a stalk of sugar cane and cooked, then served with a stack of rice paper wraps, spicy sauce, and a plate of fresh vegetables (greens, peppers, cilantro). You unwrap the shrimp from the sugar cane and make a sort of tasty Vietnamese fajita out of it with the sauce, vegetables, and the rice paper. 100 W. Pioneer Pkwy., Arlington. 817-261-6699. Inexpensive to moderate.

Lucile’s-A Stateside Bistro. Here’s the latest successful restaurant to occupy one of West Fort Worth’s landmark buildings-the old Finley’s Cafeteria. The funny wedge-shaped building that once supplied fresh homemade pies to its neighborhood is now feeding folks Lucile’s “American classics.” Pasta, wood-roasted pizzas, lots of roasted veggies, steaks, and sandwiches (including an excellent ham-burger) as well as several entrees marked “heart healthy” keep patrons coming back for more. Friendly service, pretty presentation, consistently good food, a lively piano bar- what more can you ask of a neighborhood bistro? They’ll even feed you breakfast on Saturday and Sunday. 4700 Camp Bowie Blvd.. 817-738-4761. Moderate.

Rickshaw Chinese Restaurant. No wonder Fort Worth’s East Siders have been keeping this a secret. This tiny restaurant tucked into a strip shopping center is nothing fancy, but the food is invariably tasty, we 11-prepared, and nicely served. Show up more than twice and they most likely will not only remember your name, but also your favorite order. You can’t go wrong with the house specials, the best of which is the Double Delight, made with shrimp in a white sauce and pork in a hot black bean sauce that will delight Texas palates seasoned on spicy Tex-Mex. They also make the best hot and sour soup in Fort Worth. No overheated buffet here; food is prepared fresh when you order, and it shows. Lunches are varied and quick, but go for dinner so you’ll have more time to savorthe rich flavors. 1229 Wood Haven Blvd., FortWorth, 8174966767. Inexpensive to moderate.

Star of Texas Grill. From its perch on the mezzanine of the Worthington Hotel, the Star of Texas looks out over the bricks of busy Main Street. It’s a quiet place to dine, with piano music often drifting up from the lobby bar and a decor featuring cedar fence posts artfully draped with ropes and cowboy hats. The food can best be described as South western/Italian, ranging from pastas and hearth-baked pizzas to venison chili, nachos, and big beef steaks. Many dishes are given Fort Worth place names, such as North Side nachos, Thistle Hill salad, and Billy Bob’s shrimp cocktail. On our visit, the food tasted pretty good, but our waiter was clearly working too many tables, and service suffered. Our appetizers-Cajun popcorn shrimp and Texas bruschetta (Italian herb and sun-dried tomato bread with Dallas goat cheese and cilantro jalapeno pesto), meant to be served hot-arrived lukewarm at best, after the salads were served. The house salads, by the way, turned out to be the best part of the meal, fresh, crisp, and flavorful. The Texas tacos also were served barely warm. My vegetarian companion requested lobster instead of chicken in part of her entree, but after a very long wait, it arrived with-chicken. With the many choices of good places to eat in downtown Fort Worth, the Star of Texas Grill is going to have to try harder than this. 200 Main St.. 817-882-1719. Moderate.

Water Street Seafood Company. Near the TCU campus. 1540 S. University Dr., Fort Worth, 817-877-3474. Moderate to expensive.

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