DINING OUT NEW RESTAURANT REVIEWS Tramontana Wafts in with Sweet Temptations

TRAMONTANA

The name refers to a disquieting seasonal wind that scours Mediterranean slopes with mood-darkening force; but the restaurant that has borrowed it must have been borne here on a sweeter-tempered breeze. One of pure bonheur, I’d say-steadily expanding Preston Center has no lack of eateries, but there hadn’t been a French one. Now, Jean-Michel Sakouhi (an alum of the Mansion, Si-pango, et al,) has corrected the omission with Tra-montana, which occupies the space that once held La Creme. With its Lautrec-like wall murals, diagonal beaded wood ceiling, and seats for no more than 54 at white-clothed tables, the spiffy little space is bistroesque in every way but one: It will never be smoke-filled-no smoking is allowed.

No matter. Both the amiably laid-back ambiance and the brief menu reinforce Tramontana’s intimate bistro character. The place has charm, and the bill of fare’s brevity in no way limits its appeal. Chef Jose Sanchez’s name is Hispanic, but his training is altogether European in character (he’s cooked at Old Warsaw, Clair de Lune, and Les Saisons, among others), and his French-Mediterranean dishes on our visits demonstrated a confident mastery of technique and seasonings. Only one appetizer we tasted proved disappointing: a bruschetta starter of not-quite-toasted bread topped with tomato, corn, and onions was near-tasteless, the too-thin slices semi-limp and sans the menu-men -tioned breath of rubbed-on garlic.

Marinated goat cheese, though, was marvelous, lustily peppered rounds nestled on a tangle of herbed greens. The same greens shone in a mesclun salad strewn with chunks of walnuts and tart goat cheese and subtly dressed with a delicate Balsamic vinaigrette.

To backtrack one course, the two soups we savored were flawless-deep-flavored French onion came topped with a fine melt of Gruyere cheese on its bread raft, and the day’s creamed green bean potage was ele-gantly smooth, the haricots vert an intensely fresh presence.

Entrees, even more rewarding, exceeded our expectations, especially in their sauces. A fist-sized cut of pan-seared salmon would have been fine served naked, but bathed in a subtly tart caper sauce with grilled polenta and steamed spinach, it was transcendent. Ditto on the ravioli stuffed with spinach and mushrooms in a smooth sun-dried tomato cream. Ditto again on a super-plump filet mignon sauced with Cabernet and sided with crunchy green beans and rosemary potatoes. Best of all, though, was a day’s special that made me forget how weary I’ve become of chicken: This one’s tender breast was succulently grilled, even more succulently anointed with a musky essence that took its cue from the portobello mushroom ribbons it held in abundance.

Desserts, not needed, were not made in-house, either; they come from Massimo’s, as does the good bread served here. We did manage to choke down something called a croquentini. It involved chocolate, meringue, and toasted almonds and was, indeed, ambrosial.

Tramontana’s lunch menu, by the way, includes a portobello sandwich I’m trembling with longing to try-along with everything else we couldn’t find room for in two visits. Preston Center’s got itself a winner. -Betty Cook Tramontana. 8220B Westchester Dr., 214-368-4188. Lunch, Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-2:30p.m.; dinner, Monday-Thursday, 5:30 p.m.-10:30p.m., Friday-Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Inexpensive to moderate.

THE ADRIATIC

Not only is there likely to be someone tickling the ivories while you dine in this intimate restaurant, but, even better, it’s at a decibel level that enhances your meal, rather than rendering conversation impossible. The tranquillity of the setting and the high caliber of the service also add dining points, and that’s all before we even come to the food. The menu, while billed as Continental, is primarily Italian, what with fettuccine, insalata, scampi, zuppa, and the like.

Despite overhearing “The calamari is unbelievable ! ” from a nearby table, we started one meal with an excellent order of steamed clams in a garlic broth that was so flavorful that my husband kept dipping the nicely crusty bread in it long after the clams were gone. The Caesar is zippily fresh, with plenty of lemon juice anointing the dressing, and is crowned with excellent croutons (we’d have preferred more of these, along with more of the shredded cheese).

Garlic reigns in the wonderful scalloped potatoes served with the meaty, perfectly cooked rack of Iamb, and the zucchini and carrots heaped on the side have been given equal attention. A pepper steak special, a tender, tasty meat-feast, was served with the same good potatoes, along with a nicely braised cabbage treat from yesteryear that’s not offered enough today.

Expect generous portions here, although the focus remains on quality rather than quantity. The dessert list needs work- tiramisu, cheesecake, and creme brulee, that all-too-common trio, are eatable but don’t excite the taste buds. The Adriatic’s wine list impresses, filled with a distillation of carefully chosen wines and beer from all over, quite reasonably priced. More bargains abound on the lunch menu, with most items in the $5.50-$6.95 range, including everything from a fruit and cheese platter to crab and spinach-filled cannelloni.

Regulars have already discovered the regal, yet welcoming bar area, where a glass of wine and a plate of grilled vegetables with a sun-dried tomato couscous make a nice segue from the workday. Whether for a romantic evening of dinner and dancing or a quick mid-week meal, The Adriatic might just be the perfect neighborhood spot that we all seek out. -Suzanne Hough

The Adriatic. 19009 Preston Rd., 214-248-2500. Hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner, Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Friday & Saturday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m., closed Sunday for dinner. Moderate.

LA PETITE MAISON

Ambitious only begins to describe Robert Barone, chef-owner of this new French restaurant. Foolhardy is another word some might employ-La Petite Maison occupies the charmingly redone (yet again) ex-residence hallowed among food cognoscenti as the site of Callaud’s first establishment. Noone since has seemed able to exorcise that presence successfully, although Juniper, the last previous attempt, was doing well until internal problems closed its doors.

Surprise, though-Barone may well break the spell. Young, enthusiastic, and above all, talented and well-trained (he’s a graduate of the French Culinary Institute), he has worked for some years as a chef in a private home; and the fact that past employers are backing him suggests that his confidence in this daring venture is not misplaced.

His food on our visits more than supports that suggestion. From our first thrilling spoonful of soup to the last plate-scraping nibble of chocolate creme, Barone’s fare was beautifully prepared, presented, and served.

Take that soup, for first instance, A lobster bisque, it was lush in texture, deep auburn in color, splendidly flavorful. A seafood starter of in-house smoked salmon, scallops, and shrimp was magazine-pretty, a ruffled rose of smoky pink salmon ringed with satiny grilled sea scallops and tails-up shrimp flung with capers and green onion bits. The house salad played tender mozzarella-also a house product-against ripe tomato slices on pooled olive oil zested with bubbles of Balsamic vinegar.

A featured entree, oven-roasted chicken “Grand-Mere,” was served with carved potato, tiny onions, and a lavish sprinkle of hearty smoked bacon squares. Pan-seared pork medallions were tender and juicy, zested with a Dijon mustard sauce and sided with airy garlic whipped potatoes and baby carrots. Roasted rack of lamb posed three ruddy rib chops on a bed of toothsome couscous, the cracked Bulgar beads spiked with a particularly subtle curry.

I mentioned the chocolate dessert: A dramatic creation, it centered a pillow of silken chocolate creme under a tepee of fragile pastry triangles, each rooted in a dollop of fresh whipped cream underlain with raspberry. Another dessert, rather too chewy gingerbread rounds stacked with ice cream layers, was the only dish we tried that lacked finesse, (The only element encountered, in fact, in two visits-one solo, the other accompanied-that was less than excellent.) Service was exemplary, the ambiance warm, and Barone’s visible concern for diners’ pleasure in his rounds of the room as well as in the kitchen an ingratiating touch. Here is one presence we can hope will not soon be exorcised. -B.C.

La Petite Maison. 2917 Fairmount St., 214-855-0700. Lunch, Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:00 p.m.; dinner, Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-11:30 p.m. Moderate.

CENADURIA MEXICAN A

DEPENDING ON WHOM YOU TALK TO, CENA-duria means food or diner or those little roadside stands in Mexico that turn out steaming hot, homemade snacks. And that sums up this restaurant’s goal: authentic, homemade Mexican, not Tex-Mex, food.

A dish that perfectly illustrates this intent is the barbacoa, served weekends only. They call it steamed, tender beef; I call it Mexican pot roast, and it’s just swell. You get a generous plate of fork-tender stewed, shredded beef, onions, chilies and tomatoes, along with a basket of tortillas for a roll-your-own feast. The side bowl of beans gets high marks for their smoky flavor, and there’s a hint of what might be beer in their juices. Meals start with good, thin chips and a soupy salsa that was thoroughly bland one day, nicely tongue-tingling the next.

Unfortunately, bland seems to be prevalent here. Quesadillas, just tasteless white cheese and flour tortillas, could be fed to a baby, and cried out for some jalapenos, chopped onion…anything. Chicken gorditas made a better appetizer choice, especially when doused liberally with the salsa.

Cenaduria offers all of the standard Mexican entrees, from enchiladas to tamales to tacos, with additional house specialties like pork chops with a tomatillo salsa. The chicken with mole sauce has a slow, slightly acrid afterburn; fajitas come with lots of grilled beef. We sipped margaritas with our entrees on one visit, and another day watched in amazement as a couple at a nearby table worked their way through two buckets of beer before they’d even finished their entrees. (Maybe because beer’s a bargain-six bottles in a bucket for $8.25). The menu lists two desserts, flan with Kahlua sauce and a mango sorbet that they call ” a must. ” I call this scoop of shaved ice scented with a bare whisper of flavor a must-avoid. Good flan, though. Breakfast, served until noon every day, sounds hearty and good, with nothing over $4.95. Night owls will love the fact that the restaurant stays open until 4 a.m. Thursday to Sunday, and Cenaduria is sure to get regulars coming in to see the mariachis and ballet dancers perform. -S.H.

Cenaduria Mexicans. 2023 Greenville Ave., 214-827-1494. Hours: Monday-Wednesday, 8 a.m.-midnight, Thursday-Sunday, 8 a.m.-4 a.m. Inexpensive.

THESE RESTAURANT LISTINGS ARE REVISED and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment.

Inclusion in this director)’ has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

KEY:

●Inexpensive: Dinner entrees under $10

●Moderate: Most entrees $10 to $25

●Expensive: Most entrees $25 or more (Based on a typical dinner for one, not including drinks, tax, and tip.)

Barbecue

Red, Hot & Blue. This restaurant promises Memphis blues and red hot barbecue, and it delivers. Go for the “wet” smoked pork ribs and add the dry seasoning that’s at every table, but beware of the blisteringly hot “hoochie-koochie” sauce on the table. The baked beans, with green pepper and onion, were tangy but the cole slaw was bland; we wondered if someone forgot the dressing. New potato salad, however, was chunky and firm with the right mix of egg and seasoning. 9810 N. Central Expy. at Walnut Hill Lane, Ste. 600. 214-368-RIBS or fax 214-373-FAXS for orders to go. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. Deep in die heart of Texas barbecue, Houston has Goode’s, Fort Worth has Angelo’s, and Dallas has Sonny Bryan s. And while Sonny may be gone, his sainted name goes on in franchising; the original dump on Inwood is father to two downtown spots and a strip-mall storefront in far North Dallas The meat is what matters here; falling-off-the-bone ribs; tender, thick slices of smoky beef; and wonderfully greasy sausage, all kissed with spicy, thick sauce. 2202 Inwood Rd., 214-357-7120. Inexpensive.

Brewpubs

The Rock Bottom Brewery. The crowd is full of breathlessly hip, buffed, and gelled singles looking for Mr./Mrs. Right. While scanning the crowd, enjoy a glass of Roadrunner Stout, a spicy, almost gingery flecked pint of power. Avoid the mutant jazz berry. The burgers, nachos, and sandwiches have cutesy names and reasonable prices, but so-so presentations. 4050 Belt Line Rd., West Addison, 214-404-7456. Moderate. Routh Street Brewery end Grill. For starters, try the musky rich mushroom soup and a heaping bowl of buttery ale-steamed mussels. Fried fish and chips were hearty and crisp and the Wiener I schnitzel is huge and delectable. A hickory-grilled half chicken was to swoon over, splendidly accompanied by horseradish-scented I whipped potatoes and a rosy pear-and-red cabbage melange. The beer is also noteworthy. Try the sampler of five two-ounce servings that will help you settle on one to accompanying your dinner. The desserts were disappointing-the spiced apple strudel’s crust has a toughness reminiscent of micro waved pastries. 3011 Routh St., 214-922-8835. Moderate.

Burgers/Casual

Bill Bates Cowboy Grill. On the menu here are ribs, chicken-fried steak, smoked pork chops, and burgers, along with a few token salads and pastas, two “training camp healthy” choices, a menu for kids, bottled beer, and Dom Perignon, You can admire Bill’s collection of football memorabilia. 18101 Preston Rd., Ste. 204,214-380-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cowboys Sports Cafe. Lots of appetizers (most fried), burgers, sandwiches., and salads are lined up on the menu at the restaurant-bar owned by Tony Dorsett, Eugene Lockhart, Everson Walls, and Alfredo Roberts. While you’re dining you may see Barry Switzer or Jerry Jones, both drop by often. Enjoy the company, because the food wins no culinary Super Bowl. 9454 N. MacArthur Blvd., Irving, 214-401-3939. Inexpensive.

Fresh ’N Lite. The name can be a little misleading;-the menu does offer a lot of fat-free foods, but this place is out to please everyone, so the menu includes burgers, croissant-based sandwiches, and even corn dogs. Most popular are the enormous bowls of salad in 13 varieties. The Caesar features perfectly grilled chicken, olives, and onions, and makes a satisfing meal, although the accompanying pasty white rolls need improvement. Save room for a hot fruit cobbler. 6150 FrankfordRd.,214-713-8167. Inexpensive.

Randy White’s All American Grill and Bar. Randy is usually out selling trucks, but his Restaurant Row standby offers decent quesadillas and burgers, a good beer list, and enough televisions to watch all the NFL games at once. You’ll also get to see the football shrine in the entryway that houses awards and trophies from White’s career. 10821 Composite Dr., 214-351-3261. Inexpensive to moderate.

The San Francisco Rose. Good, standard fare- salads, burgers, chicken sandwiches, and a Larry North special for the health-conscious. Special kudos to the veggie quesadillas, full of fresh vegetables and probably the best in town. 3024 Greenville Ave., 214-826-2020. Inexpensive.

Cajun/Creole

Cafe Margaux. Kay Agnew has a talent for endowing whatever space her restaurant occupies with a distinctively Southern comfort. The cafe’s food is outstanding. Prime examples: A half dozen fried oysters, their little frills crisped with com meal, came arranged on a pale, lemony sauce laced with nuggets of cracked pepper, while the day’s special of blackened halibut, with gilding pearly leaves of moist, sweet flesh, delivered a truly subtle murmur of Creole warmth in seared surface seasonings. Crestpark Hotel. 4242 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-520-1985. Moderate to expensive.

Copeland’s of New Orleans. The menu lists lower calorie choices like steamed vegetables and grilled fish, but classic Cajun food is the real star here-po-boys and deep-fried catfish, gumbo and shrimp etouffee. Don’t skip the thick, rich homemade ice cream or the traditional bananas Foster. Do, however, ask them to turn down the music. It s way too loud. 5353 Belt Line Rd., 214-661-1883. Moderate.

D REVISITS Crescent City Cafe. Don’; come the decor, with its brick walls, wobbly tables, and neon signs; or for the service: each member of the staff gamely attempts to handle two or three times a normal load. Come here, like the suits all around you do, to fling your tie over your shoulder and chow down. Seafood gumbo, a wealth of a meal in a bowl, is reason enough to become a regular; pair it with half of a po-boy, and you ’re set for the day. (Steer clear of die po-boys featuring roast beef. though; this tough, stringy bee! tastes like Mom’s overcooked pot roast). The classic New Orleans muffaletta sandwich, slathered with a tangy olive dressing that zips up die meats and cheeses, travels well-a perfect foil to airline food or something to take home lor dinner. Sample those New Orleans-style doughnuts, beignets, before you leave, though-they’re best hot. 2615 Commerce St., 214-745-1900. Inexpensive.

Pappadeaux. Pappadeaux may be a chain, but it consistently prepares lively Cajun and stately New Orleans style food in a welcome and authentic manner. Fresh, ice-cold Gulf oysters are delec-tably topped with crab meat, spinach, and hollandaise on a bed of rock salt. We found the fried alligator to be so sweet, juicy, and lightly fried that we plan to have it again, even though h did taste like chicken. 3520 Oak Lawn Ave,, 214-521-4700. Moderate.

Central American

Gloria’s. Dallas’ first El Salvadoran restaurant may have a casual, relaxed atmosphere, but the service couldn’t be better. Over 70 items crowd the order-by-number menu. We especially liked number 24, tender, nicely seasoned shrimp and onions over Spanish rice, and number 29, a seafood soup loaded with cubed fish, vegetables, and-surprise!-half an enormous crab in the shell, uncracked, and every bit worth the work of dislodging the succulent meat. 600 W. Davis St., 214-948-3672. Inexpensive.

Chinese

Taiwan Restaurant. The menu might look like a lot of other Chinese restaurants’, but that’s where any similarity ends. First, the decor: These elegantly decorated, spacious rooms are lined with windows to take advantage of the view from Taiwan’s second-floor location. Second, dim sum is offered daily (11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.), and it’s authentic, complete with carts loaded with little plates of these Chinese appetizers. There’s sticky rice, egg rolls, dumplings, and much more. 4980 Belt Line Rd.,Addison.214-387-2333.Moderate.

D REVISITS Uncle Tai’s. earned massive acclaim when it opened more than 10 years ago, but it’s been coasting too much on its reputation lately. The “two delicacy” cold platter spunkily begins a meal, especially if it teams slivered chicken in an assertive sesame sauce with peppercorn-topped tender prawns, but meals can slide rapidly downhill to candy-sweet “hot, spicy shrimp” and over-tenderized chicken with cashews. Ten-ingredient fried rice, recommended highly by the staff, is basically a plate of white rice dotted skimpily with seven ingredients. Spring rolls start off well, with a greaseless crisp crunch, but the filling remains a mystery. The setting, overlooking the wannabes on The Galleria’s ice skating rink, offers more enjovment than the food does. In The Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy., 214-934-9998. Moderate,

Coffeehous

Cafe Brazil. With un international menu-muf-falettas to croque madames-and 51 flavors of coffee, this is a place to linger with the eclectic crowd. 6420 N. Central Expy., 214-691-7791. Inexpensive.

Java Island. With its jungle decor, you really feel like you’ve landed on a tropical bland. But there is no Gilligan-like isolation here-scan the Internet on the in-house computers while enjoying one of the menu’s Italian selections or create-your-own sandwiches. Of course, the main draw is the 40 flavors of coffee at $1.25 a cup. 3020 Legacy Dr., Ste. 270, Piano, 214-491-1695. Inexpensive.

Java Jones. Offering one of the least expensive cups of coffee among Dallas’ upscale Java joints ($1.60 bottomless cup), Java Jones also has an Italian menu-panini, pasta, and gelato. The restaurant attracts the body-piercing, tattooed crowd. 3211 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-528-2099. Inexpensive.

Deli

Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. Mile-high combination sandwiches, best on rye, include “The Brooklyn Bridge,” a triple-decker of corned beef, lean pastrami, chopped liver, and onion, and “The Queensboro Bridge,” stuffed with turkey, pastrami, Swiss cheese, cole slaw, and thousand island dressing. Be sure to sample the fabulous borscht with sour cream and the garlickly new cucumber pickles. For those who long for Eastern European dishes, specialties include stuffed cabbage, knish-es, and chicken or flanken in the pot. 127 Preston Forest Village, 214-373-3333. Inexpensive.

Street’s. This is the sandwich shop that should put most others to shame. After chomping through most: of Street’s menu, one of our favorites is the V.I.P. a turkey, dressing, and cranberry sauce sandwich. Another favorite is the vegetarian number with grilled portobello mushrooms layered with onion, tomatoes, and melted cheese. Two common threads run throughout the menu: The bread is good, and the quality of the produce is high. For dessert, the buttery rum cake and carrot cake are especially satisfying. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-526-2505. Inexpensive.

Eclect

8.0 Restaurant and Bar. Head here on any Thursday night to mingle with the standing- room-only, coolest crowd in Dallas. Even the non-hip crowd comes for Sunday brunch, especially for a courtyard seat, Healthful cooking is stressed, but pancakes, chili cheeseburgers, and bacon appear alongside the “workout omelette.” You’ll find large portions and low prices, but 8.0’s goal isn’t to attract epicureans. The “Lava Lamp,” an 8.0 drink invoking jello shots and vodka, has a loyal following, and the blue frozen margaritas are nothing but fun in a glass. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., 214-979-0880. Inexpensive.

Fog City Diner. This glitzy, San Francisco-spawned transplant is to the traditional plate-lunch palace what Rockefeller Center is to the tepee. Some dishes pay lip service to the diner concept-chili dogs, burgers, and shakes arc available-but you’ll know you’re riding the crest of trendmania when you see “warm chocolate chili tan with coffee ice cream” on the dessert menu. 2401 McKinney Ave,, 214-220-2401. Inexpensive.

Globe Bistro. When you enter this eaten.’ the surrealistic decor may take you off guard. You may find other diners staring at the ceiling, which seems to be constructed of crumpled rose-tinted aluminum. This is offset by classic tunes being played on the piano, and die food that exceeds all expectations. Try the smoked salmon appetizer that scores big flavor points or the Caesar rich with cheese and garlic. A special entree is the gorgonzola-stuffed filet mignon with scalloped potatoes and a wealth of vegetables. Those potatoes are also good with the lamb and ratatouille. Berries, served in a cookie “bowl,” end the meal on a light note. You can also try the Globe at lunch when the offerings include enormous sandwiches on tasty pannini bread spread with heavenly garlic mavonnaise. 5000 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 214-661-8006. Moderate.

The Grape, The interior of The Grape is painted to look mellowly aged, like a wine cellar, and it’s guaranteed to stir up romance. Chef David Burdette toils behind a glass wall, and a huge blackboard displays the day’s menu, specials, and wine by the glass. Whatever you order, start with the mushroom soup-it’s famous, and jusrifiably so. The menu changes every tew days and includes classics like beef tournedos, osso buco, and grilled swordfish, each given a unique Burdette sauce or accompaniment. 2808 Greenville Ave., 214-828-1981. Moderate.

Joey’s. Every dish we saw or sampled at this new restaurant was beautifully composed on the plate and only three were less interesting than they looked-an avocado pancake, Joey’s Nutty salad, and capellini crusted salmon. On the plus side, Joey’s serves a delicious rotisserie-roasted duck with fresh raspberries and richly seasoned wild rice. Also good is the fazzoletto, a tissue thin pasta handkerchief folded around arugula, spinach, and ricotto cheese, The shrimp and crab cheesecake with pesto was mouthwatering. Dessens were anticlimactic after the meal, but the seven-layer cheesecake and house tiramisu are pleasant. 4217 Oak Lawn Ave,, 214-526-0074. Moderate to expensive.

Martini Ranch. Many of the martinis here have high prices and froufrou names-die jokingly hot “martini picante” with jalapeno stuffed olives; the sickly sweet “side car” with brandy and curacao; and the chocolate martini, Godiva liqueur in a chocolate rimmed glass (much better than it sounds, but save it for dessert). Among nibblies, try the excellent smoked trout, crab claws, and crispy calamari. The Jackie “O,” a baked potato soused with vodka and dabbed with caviar, is cooked to death and overpriced. 2816 Fairmount Si,, 214-220-2116. Inexpensive to moderate.

French/Continent

Addison Cafe. The intimate setting, clusters of long-stemmed flowers, and regal service bode well for a night of amour. Hot crusty rolls and a “Salade Victor Hugo,” greens topped with juicy grilled chicken, tomatoes, and walnuts, team up tor a swell lunch; and a spinach, gruyere, and sun-dried tomato salad makes a nice segue into dinner. The heaps of vegetables served with the entrees are so beautifully prepared and cooked that it’s tempting to polish them off first. However, you’ll be devoting equal time to the beef tournedos in their intoxicating bordelaise sauce if you’ve been clever enough to order that. Prestonwood Place, 5290 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 214-991-8824. Moderate.

Calluaud’s Bistro. Long one of Dallas’ most charming French eateries, Calluaud’s now concentrates on casual entrees and tapas, with an occasional “small bite” from die restaurant’s previous, skillfully executed, traditional French menu. Among the entrees, try die moist, perfectly cooked red snapper topped with tomatoes, onions, green peppercorns, rosemary, and a touch of vinegar, served with sauteed squash. And don’t be surprised if you’re seated by the owner’s wife or teenage daughter, or if the chef himself, Guy Calluaud, comes out of the kitchen to set a table or straighten the silver. 5405 W. Lovers Ln., 214-352-1997. Moderate.

Chez Gerard. Chez Gerard makes French cuisine approachable while upholding the restaurant’s reputation for exquisite food, service, and wine. Try simple, rustic country French dishes like casserole of scallops in red wine sauce, rabbit fricassee, or dishes rarely seen outside France like roasted pigeon, grilled mullet, or halibut tartare. Meals are served in the cozy, dimly lit, inside room or in the covered patio, and both locations set die stage for romance. 4444 McKinney Ave., 214-522-6865. Moderate.

The French Room. The French Room is perhaps Dallas’ pre-eminent grand-occasion restaurant. For one thing, the price is haughty, although the courtly and unassuming staff certainly is not. And the menu is charged with such romantic eloquence it might make the best-seller lists as The Dishes of Dallas County. But it’s not just hype- every dish we sampled more than lived up to its billing, from an appetizer of foie gras terrine with mesclun salad to a roasted breast of guinea hen, split and filled with sweet crabmeat. Chef Donald Guillory’s cuisine makes dining here a special occasion. In the Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce St., 214-742-8200. Expensive.

The Green Room. Chef Chris Pyun’s food will stop you from wondering whether the Green Room’s decor is Victorian melodrama, French farce, or Deep Ellum send-up; the Culinary Institute of America alum cooks avant French, scaled down in price by resourceful mixing of local and seasonal ingredients with more exotic elements. An occasional snap of piquancy salutes Southwestern influences, as in the consummately delicious red bell pepper soup barely laced with lingering fire from a float of jalapeno coulis. 2715 Elm St., 214-748-7666. Moderate.

Old Warsaw. Romance is on the menu at Old Warsaw, with its candlelit atmosphere, unobtrusive service, and strolling violinists. The menu is solidly Continental and features lots of tableside preparation. The lobster crepe, packed with cubes of sweet meat, makes an excellent appetizer, as does the rich, creamy Brie soup. The entrees include braised pheasant, rack of lamb, and sweetbreads. Crab-stuffed tenderloin, a favorite choice, is meltingly tender and a visual delight. The wine list is excellent, and you’ll have plenty of time to study it if, as often happens, you’re shown to the bar for a lengthy wait until your table’s ready. 2610 Maple Ave., 214-528-0032. Expensive.

The Pyramid Room. Despite the plush atmosphere and impeccable service, you don’t have to spend big bucks to have a fine meal here. In addition to the regular menu, there’s a five-course dinner for $24 a person offered nightly, like sauteed calamari, chilled cucumber soup, homemadesor-bet, and grilled beef tenderloin on polenta. Dessert is included, and the beautifully garnished macadamia nut torte is a favorite. The lobster bisque is a classic, smooth and rich with morsels of lobster, and the basket of breads is irresistible. The wine list, recognized by The Wine Spectator, is outstanding. Live music nightly. Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N. Akard St., 214 720-5249. Expensive.

The Riviera. We know of nowhere in Dallas where food, service, and ambience unfailingly come together in a more pleasurable whole, from seating and gift hors d’oeuvres to bitter smooth farewell chocolate truffle. Between those grace notes, every course shines with the exuberance characteristic of the restaurant’s namesake Mediterranean region. One appetizer featured rich nuggets of Maine lobster with fresh-scented celery root in sauteed cakes nestled in basil-lobster sauce along with infant leaves of arugula and cilantro. We also found a perfect soup: a chilled Provencal blending of fresh and sun-dried tomato afloat with ripe avocado slices around a crouton heaped with crab meat. 7709 Inwood Rd., 214-351-0094. Expensive.

Waterl’s. This spirited eatery on McKinney Avenue treats guests with neighborly informality and uncommonly amiable, caring, and personal service. And the kitchen feels secure enough to vary its mostly classic country French bill of fare with not-so-Gallic dishes like pasta, vegetarian specials, and even an occasional Asian accent. But it’s in its house specialties that Watel’s culinary nationality is defined-in a white bean-based cassoulet bulging with lamb, duck confit, sausage, and smoked pork, and in the organ meats, prepared here with consummate skill. 1923 McKinney Ave., 214-720-0323. Moderate.

Homecooki

Barbec’s. Traditionally, good food is served at this East Dallas casual establishment. On our last visit, however, eggs ordered over medium were runny and sausage sat too long under a heating lamp. Grits are the standout item while the well-known beer-batter biscuits are slightly sweet. On weekday mornings, the line can stretch out the door. 8949 Garland Rd., 214-321-5597. Inexpensive.

Norma’a. This southern diner with its Gumpesque quirky quality serves man-sized portions of standard breakfast fare. Everything from cereal and pancakes to bacon and eggs can be combined into a meal for $3 to $5. The coffee is good and kept hot by the friendly, pampering waitresses. 3330 Belt Line Rd, 214-243-8646. Inexpensive.

Poor Richard’s Cafe. Located in a strip shopping center in East Piano, this country cafe has been serving families and working folks for more than 20 years. The menu has a range of stout breakfast and lunch offerings. In the morning, the signature BBQ Omelet is a western-style delight and the pancakes are light and fluffy. The waitresses and plentiful, courteous, and efficient. 2442 Avenue K at Park Boulevard, 214-423-1524. Inexpensive.

Vincent’s Home Cooking. Mediterranean special-ties such as dolmades, hummus, and baba ghanoush share equal space on the buffet table with salads and a variety of meats. Plus, don’t forget a slice of the homemade bread. The feast, which includes a selection of desserts including chocolate cream pie. costs as low as $5.95. What a bargain! 2574 Walnut Hill Ln., 214-351-1860. Moderate.

Indian

India Palace. With gracefully figured arcades, a glass window overlooking the deep clay tandoor ovens, and a bountiful buffet, India Palace can appear quite splendid. Try the mulligatawny soup-tomato with an undercurrent of coconut-and pureed lentil punctuated with a host of distinct herbs. Curried chicken is creamy. tender, and moist, while the bright-red marinated tandoori chicken and grilled flat bread or naan, both seared by the intense dry heat of the tan-door oven, are without parallel. End it all with a luscious mango custard or creamy rice pudding with almonds, pistachios, and a hint of rosewa-ter. 12817 Preston Rd.,214- 592-0190. Moderate,

Italian

Alessio’s. Among the frequently superb offerings, we especially recommend the light-as-air gnocchi with gorgonzola, the grilled double veal chops steeped in five herbs, and the creamy, tomato-scented pasta fra diavolo. As an appetizer, escargot, tough and chewy, were disenchanting, all the more so when we discovered that our waiter had failed to reel off the day’s inventive list of savory appetizers. To compensate, we were treated to a heavenly dessert of homemade vanilla ice cream with blanched almonds, ripe strawberries, and chocolate sauce. Service, including frequent visits from the owner, was personable and caring. 4117 Lomo Alto Dr., 214-521-3585. Moderate.

D REVISITS Campisi’s Egyptian. You can for-get Egyptian. The name remains as ashadowy memory of a previous restaurant that occupied this strip mall site. Think Italian, think authentic Little Italy in San Francisco or New Haven, and you’ll be able to conjure up a picture of this restaurant that’s been a Dallas institution for more than 40 years. Shove open the padded red vinyl door to Campisi’s, stumble to a leatherette booth in this darkened room, and plunk a quarter in your mini jukebox to have the Chairman of the Board or Dean Martin croon a tune for you as you sip Chianti and read the menu. People swear by Campisi’s rectangular pizzas, with their ultra-thin crusts, but they use scallions instead of onions, and what appear to be canned mushrooms instead of fresh, so we prefer the heaps of red-sauced pastas, especially the cheesy lasagna. Herbs lace the giant meatballs, the scampi is a garlicky delight, and the light-tasting cheesecake (made by a local German baker) is an absolute must. 55610 E. Mockingbird Ln., 214-827-0355. Inexpensive.

Ciao Bella. Chef Tomazo, a farm-reared native of Italy, honors the sunny simplicity of his region’s dishes with finesse. A first course of roasted sweet peppers, tender mozzarella, and ripe tomato sparkled in a lacing of virgin olive oil. A pasta plate’s tangle of al dente spaghetti wore exactly the right amount of lively tomato sauce scented with basil snips. Every dish we tried demonstrated how total dedication to freshness can turn the plainest fare into poetry. 3232 McKinney Ave., 214-871-2074. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mi Piaci. The name means “you are pleasing to me.” You’ll see why when you check out this Addison restaurant, with its team of workers making fresh pasta, an 80-pound wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano on display, and columns twisting from wood floor to high, sponged ceiling. The pasta is outstanding, especially the fusil-li loaded with earthy wild mushrooms, and the risotto ranks among the best in town. Delicious homemade bread and a largely Italian (and largely superb) wine list will make for a dining experience very pleasing to you. 14854 Montfort Dr., Addison., 214-934-8424. Moderate.

Pomodoro’t. Pomodoro’s offers up fresh, delectable Italian pasta, frittatas, veal, and fish in a Napa Valley-esque setting just north of downtown, Go light (and cheap) with minestrone, complimentary fresh bread with sauteed tomatoes, and a Chianti Classico, or belly up to spicy Penne Arrabiata or Linguine Verde con Popla di Granchio (spinach linguine with crabmeat). Appetizers shine, especially die silky Carpaccio Pomodoro and bountiful Calamaretti. Service is spunkily efficient. 2520 Cedar Springs Rd., 214-871-1924. Moderate.

Japanese

Mr. Sushi. The menu’s enormous, complete with chicken teriyaki, shrimp tempura, and sukiyaki, but the action is at the huge, U-shaped sushi bar. A 16-ounce Ichiban beer provides the perfect accompaniment for die best of the sushi: tender halibut, smoothly rich salmon, and a lightly spicy tuna roll. 4860 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 214-385-0168. Expensive.

Sumo Sushi. Regally hooded rattan chairs enthrone diners in the lower lounge, striking an exotic note of Eastern mystery, but abundant servings and well-prepared food are the true hallmarks of this newcomer. Get your fill of cool cuts of raw sea creatures-one handroll stuffed with rice and seafood could serve as an appetizer on its own. Or feast on the Grand Champion (boxed) Lunch, which includes battered shrimp, vegetable slices, a pair of gyoza dumplings, avocado-centered California rolls, salad, chicken drumettes, soup, rice, and a dessert orange wedge. 7402 Greenville Ave., 214-987-2333. Moderate.

Teppo. From its arrow-narrow space on Lower Greenville, Teppo dishes up delectable offerings of sushi, sashimi, and yakitori. While the simple one-page menu might seem limiting, don’t be fooled: There’s plenty of pleasure in store. Start with the grilled items (the beef sirloin nuggets studded with garlic and crisp-edged duck virtually dripped flavor, as did a chicken breast strung with bits of green onion) and work your way toward the more subtle flavors and textures of die fresh, artfully presented raw seafood. We thoroughly enjoyed both the salmon skin roll and the Teppo roll, tuna wrapped in chewy-firm conch ribbons in a magical marinade. 2014 Greenville Ave., 214-826-8989. Moderate to expensive.

Mediterranean

Adelmo’s. At Adelmo’s, owner Adelmo Banchetti is always on hand to see that the customer is properly looked after. While you are perusing die menu, you might be treated to a platter of pickled cauliflower, carrots, zucchini, and olives with rolls and butter. Try the grilled veal chop, easily a meal for two, marinated in olive oil and herbs, seared on die grill, and served with die bone still in; or die rack of lamb, gently scented with rosemary; or die exquisitely grilled, soft-shell crabs. 4537 Cole Ave., 214-559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Highland Park. Mix them together-a French bistro, an Italian trattoria, and a Mediterranean sidewalk cafe-and it spells Cafe Highland Park (formerly Highland Park Cafe}. Loaded with artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, and Kalamata olives, and garnished with a cheese-topped baguette slice, the Mediterranean salad awakens the taste buds. Grilled salmon with its pungent roasted garlic sauce is a winner, as is the sauteed veal with rich, meaty strips of mushrooms. Flavorful angel hair pasta and flawlessly cooked vegetables accompany both. 69 Highland Park Village, 214-521-7300. Moderate.

Cafe Istanbul. With its brick and whitewashed walls and heavy wooden tables, this tiny, comfortable cafe conjures up a Turkish seaside taverna, albeit in Inwood Village. The mood is set for a Middle Eastern meal that starts with meze, a platter of assorted cold appetizers accompanied by Raki, an anise-flavored liqueur, or beer, Follow with the Bolu Tavuk, a chicken breast sauteed with unusual herbs in olive oil or the tender and sumptuous marinated swordfish with vegetables. The perfect way to end the meal is with the sweet sekerpare cookies and a cup of thick Turkish coffee, 5450 W. Lovers Ln., 214-902-0919. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mediterranee This might just be the most inspired, creative menu in town, and the daily specials soar way beyond special (pray that lobster with Roquefort-whipped potatoes is on the list). The crab-filled corn pancake appetizer, with its mushrooms and sun-dried tomato/lobster butter sauce, demonstrates how skillfully executive chef David Holben combines flavors and textures. 18111 Preston Rd., Ste. 120,214-447-0066. Moderate.

Mexican

Cantina Laredo. Skip the wimpish, disappointing guacamole salad, and save your appetite tor the Guadalajara plate, loaded with cheese enchiladas, a chunky tamale, tacos al carbon, pico de gallo, and a decent dollop of guac. Speaking of green, the spinach enchiladas here are for the real spinach lover; the leaves retain some of their crunchy integrity, spared the thermonuclear zapping the dish receives at most places. Add good chips, sauce that belongs in the Tex-Mex Hall of Fame, friendly service, strolling mariachis, mar-garitas with a pleasant sting, and you have just had a good time, 8121 Walnut Hill Ln., 214-987 -9192. Inexpensive.

D REVISITS Casa Rosa. Part of the menu offers traditional Mexican dishes, but another portion of it puts a California-type spin on classic Mexican, by adding things like goat cheese, wild mushrooms, and mesquite-grilled red snapper. The interior appeals-giant murals, spot-lighted plants, and a muted, comforting decor. The peppery salsa and thin, crisp tortilla chips awaken appetites, and flawless service moves meals along smoothly. Nicely grilled meat stars in the tacos al carbon, and chicken enchiladas come packed with shredded meat and topped with a subtly smoky red sauce. Good, creamy flan stars for dessert, although “topped with fresh fruit” is a stretch for the lone, fanned strawberry. 165 Inwood Village, 214-350-5227. Inexpensive.

D REVISITS Chuy’s. Separate yourself from the roar of the crowd, and pay attention to the food and intelligent service- this is Tex-Mex with a healthy attitude. Charros, lightly spiced beans sans fat, offer a happy alternative to the refried standard here-and even that’s thoughtfully cooked with canola oil instead of lard. Fine, thin tostadas are grease-less; salsas carry fresh, addictive bite. House-special enchiladas feature blue corn tortillas stacked with big bites of smoky grilled chicken in a tart green tomatillo sauce; grilled chicken and cheese take on spirited tang with a more delicate tomatillo sauce made with herbs, sour cream, and spices. And a prime starter before all this is rajas con queso-chiles and onions bathed in a nippy white cream cheese sauce, thin but hauntingly rich in flavor. 4544 McKinney Ave., 214-559-2489. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Calle Doce. Take a charming old Oak Cliff house, add a dash of restoration, stir in a smattering of family photos, cover with family staff and management, and you’ve got La Calle Doce, known for its outstanding ceviche; good, stout margaritas; and some of the best seafood around. The herb-marinated grilled catfish, served whole on a bed of Spanish-style rice with plenty of vegetables, can convert the most strident “catfish-is-so-ugly” snob. Owners Oscar and Laura Sanchez, along with Laura’s sister Alma, are ready to answer all questions and make informed recommendations. 415 W. 12th St., 214-941-4304. Inexpensive.

D REVISITS Monica’s Aca Y Alla. Monica’s ads say she’s not beautiful, but she sure knows how to cook. She does, she does-and never a dull cliche on the plate. Her tortilla soup’s a miracle of textures and flavors that shames tonier places with its crisp tortilla ribbons and rainbow-pretty passel of vegetables. The salad that comes with it at lunch is all perky mixed greens, brightened with lime-dill vinaigrette. Pan-fried catfish is soulfully tender (if regrettably cursed with thread-thin bones) in garlic butter lime sauce. And the brown rice risotto in mild chipotle sauce strikes a neat chord in harmony with sauteed shrimp. The key lime cheesecake is a favorite, the house flan is a lively gingered chocolate. Don’t look for the mundane here-this is one of Deep Ellum’s prime health-conscious, people-watching spots, even at noon on weekdays. Live music, dance rhythms as spicy as the food, is featured on Sunday nights. 2914 Main St., 214-748-7140. Moderate.

Rosita’s Restaurant. Incendiary salsa, tortilla chips with a fine, oily sheen, and chicken nachos piled high with sour cream, tender chicken, and fresh jalapenos say this place is genuine Tex- Mex, so pass the butter and leave the cholesterol gauge at home. Try the lettuce-laden Puffed Tacos for a lighter treat. Imported cervezas are served icy cold. Daily lunch specials for $3.25 are classic combos of enchiladas, tacos, and burritos; try the all-you-can-eat weekend buffet for a true Mex-fest. 4906 Maple Ave., 214-521-4741. Inexpensive.

Natural/Health

Dream Cafe. Dallas’ most accessible organic breakfast spot, Dream Cafe unapologetically offers ultra-hip ’90s-style breakfasts, complete with superb joe, warming the hearts of artsy advertising types and button-down bankers alike. Black bean and rice luncheons and alfresco din-ner-fests (Monday night specials include kid entertainment) should delight fastidious health-conscious types. The ambitious menu occasionally lives up to glorious nouvelle descriptions (“Mystic Pasta, grilled chicken Brie, caramelized onions” and so forth); try daily specials for best bets. 2800 Routh St., 214-954-0486. Moderate.

New American

Anzu. This is the kind of place where no one will share appetizers-they’re too good. But Anzu’s entrees are as delightful as its starters; every bite brings a heady thrill of pleasure to the tongue. Teriyaki grilled portobello mushroom was a huge, marinated single cap, meaty as steak, sliced for chopstick convenience, and strewn with slivers of vinaigrette-zipped tomato and leek. Asian influences abound in Anzu’s self-styled “New American” menu and decor, from the origami birds fluttering from the ceiling to the sake warmed to just the right temperature. 4620 McKinney Ave., 214-526-7398. Moderate.

Beau Nash. Many menus elaborate to the point of tedium in describing dishes. Executive chef James Rowland’s menu almost errs in the opposite direction: Beau Nash’s bill of fare is so tersely worded that the dish one gets often is nothing like the dish one thought one ordered. The restaurant’s trademark grilled corn and smoked chicken soup, tor instance, turned out to be merely another take on the ubiquitous tortilla cliche, albeit a virtuously fat-free version. Pumpkin-brandy cheesecake was a rather too-solid ball thickly encrusted with shaved almonds-tor the sake of a novel appearance, we suppose, at the delicate texture’s expense. Other presentations, though, were pretty without being contrived-grilled asparagus fanned beautifully under shiitake mushroom slices with peppered goat cheese; anger hair pasta lay heaped with lump crab meat and diced tomato on a wash of basil coulis. Creative pizzas (try steak), sandwiches (try lobster), and entrees all speak with the lively Asian accents we’re currently calling fusion. The Hotel Crescent Court setting is splendidly casual; the service manages to charm without being chatty. 400 Crescent Ct., 214-871-3240. Moderate.

City Cafe. Complimentary marinated vegetables and olives at each table, excellent service, white tablecloths-and an exhibition kitchen featuring chef Katie Schma’s innovative dishes, like esco-lar-similar to halibut but juicier and tastier- served vertically with cumin-crusted stacked filets sitting on Spanish-style rice flecked with tomatoes and onions, topped with fried onion shreds, and surrounded by drizzled sauces of smoked plum and cilantro-spiked mango. And brother Doug Schma makes chocolate Kahlua cake; layers of meringue and butter-cream. ..mmm. 5757 W. Lovers Ln., 214-351-2233. Moderate.

Dakota’s. Dakota’s outdoor patio, with its five-tiered waterfall and hundreds of tiny white bulbs, is one of the most romantic spots in town. Sample appetizers like smoky grilled portobello mushrooms, tiny, delicate crab cakes, and smoked chicken quesadillas; revel in soups like smoked chicken chowder; and try not to become addicted to the lamb chops, served with pots of mint jelly, feta cheese vinaigrette, and angel-hair pasta. But, whatever you do, save room for the homemade desserts-cheesecake, “ooey-gooey” brownies, and the divine, sweet-tart Key lime pie. 600 N. Akard St., 214-740-4001. Moderate.

Landmark Restaurant. Ensconced in the mellow confines of the grand Melrose Hotel is a piquant treat: the “New World” cuisine of Landmark Restaurant chef Kent Rathbun. His experience of the Far East is evident in such creations as “pressed sushi” with daikon and beet confetti salad. It’s lovely, with rounds of firm fish sided with crisp, white radish and scarlet beet, but be warned-die dish is incendiary, even die rice. The spicy presence, though assertive, is just right in masterpieces like the grilled rack of lamb. In the Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-521-5151. Moderate to expensive.

Laurels. Everything about this lofty restaurant- atop a North Dallas hotel-does more than just look good. The space is lavish, die view is spectacular, and die New American cuisine is dazzling. A recently introduced prix fixe menu melds North and South American foods in a selection of health-aware appetizers, entrees, and dessens labeled with their calorie and fat contents for $49.50, including wine, beer, or soft drinks, and coffee. Or try entrees like the mixed grill-antelope, lamb, and quail, all splendidly set out on a sun-dried cherry sauce and gilded with pear-jalapeno chutney. In the Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr., 214-385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Dean Fearing, along with Stephan Pyles and several others, perfected [he New Southwest cuisine by introducing surprising ingredients and novel interpretations into such simple dishes ;is sal sas, enchiladas, and marinades. Tortilla soup-chicken broth, a touch of tomatoes and onions, topped with toasted shredded tortillas and cheddar cheese-is justifiably famous. Or try the lobster taco, a soft flour taco filled with luscious lobster meat and runny white cheese, a subtle and delicious treat. And, of course, you’ll enjoy the superlative service-captains and sommeliers materialize from the mar-blework, and flutes of premium champagne wash away your cares. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd., 214-559-2100. Expensive.

Nana Grill. The name may have changed, but people-watching in the Wyndham Anatole lobby won’t-sheiks and secretaries, politicians and potentates, conventioneers and corporate power brokers. But sit in the27th-floor Nana Grill and you’ll feel you could buy and sell them all-partly because of the altitude, the plush decor, and the staffs polished competence, of course, but also because of chef Scott Blackerby’s cosmopolitan fare-like the ambrosial baked oysters with cilantro pesto, a trademark house favorite. In the Wyndham Anatole Hotel tower, 2201 Stemmons Fwy., 214-761-7479. Expensive.

Yellow. Bright yellow awnings shade the windows, yellow accents the interior, and each dish displays a touch of-you guessed it-yellow! Sample such delights as a sesame-crusted seared ahi appetizer, served with a tangle of mixed greens, or honey-spiced duck with a tamarind plum sauce. But seafood reigns here, and the best entree might be the corn-crusted halibut with a delicate lemongrass butter sauce. 2719 McKinney Ave., 214-871-1772. Expensive.

Seafood

Aw Shucks. Picnic tables, self-service, rolls of paper towels on each table, and payment by the honor system characterize this tiny breath of sea air across from the Granada. The shrimp cocktail is a nice starter, and try the hot-as in heated-Cajun shrimp, nestled in their soft shells with the heads still on, sprinkled lightly with celery salt and cayenne. Another favorite is the Alaskan king crab. 3601 Greenville Ave., 214-821 -9449. Inexpensive to moderate.

D REVISITS Cafe Pacific. One of the most telling tricks a critic can employ in reviewing a popular restaurant is to walk in alone during a peak-rush lunch hour without a reservation. Frosty receptions, long waits, and/or terrible tables are the punishment for such gaffes at many upscale eateries-but not at Cafe Pacific, where this anonymous gaffette received cherished-guest treatment and wonderfully caring service. Magical food, too- a starter of lime-seasoned ceviche was as tony as the clientele, an extravagance of lobster and shrimp chunks with bay scallops, all bedded on jicama matchsticks and deep-green ribbons of spinach. A day’s special entree starring Gulf red snapper was even prettier, the fish delicately moist inside a crisp corn-tortilla crust atop a fine, crunchy salsa balancing tart tomatillo and sweet diced pineapple. The too-sweet nubbly crust on a warm apple crisp dessert overwhelmed its firm, fresh fruit filling, but the vanilla bean ice cream that crowned the whole affair helped cut the sweetness, as did bracing espresso, 24 Highland Park Village, Preston Road and Mockingbird Lane, 214-526-1170. Moderate to expensive.

D REVISITS Daddy Jack’s. Here, forsooth, is the kind of come-as-you-are place you’d drop in on as much for fun as for food if it weren’t so thronged with other comfort-seekers that reservations are almost a must. And insouciant free spirit Jack Chaplin and his sidekick co-owner Kenny Bowers are the kind of hosts who will give you anything you want, as long as it’s seafood, Correction: Steak is on the menu, too-but it’s the consummate ocean get that keeps the crowds coming here. Try steamed Manila clams, plump fresh things, their sturdy feet clinging stubbornly to shells, freckled with minced garlic crunch in dippin’-good broth. Savor an entree-sized appetizer of fresh mixed salad greens bedding meaty portobello mushrooms overlapped with ripe peeled tomato slices drizzled with Balsamic vinaigrette. Share a snapper and lobster tail special, sauced with spicy beurre blanc that nips you with warm after-burn-but only with someone you love enough to let him or her nibble at your big baked potato and sweet, barely steamed corn on the cob. One safe bet: Nobody goes home from here hungry. Or feeling neglected, either. l916Greenville Ave., 214-826-4910. Moderate.

Joe’s Crab Shack. This kitsch-filled restaurant, complete with a whale swimming overhead, wants its customers to feel like they’ve paused, mid-scuba dive, for a meal. And it is a bubbly place, with some of die perkiest servers around. Whack the blue crabs with a wooden mallet, dunk the sweet meat in the melted butter, toss the shells in the recessed bucket in the table, and repeat, pausing only for slugs of beer. The crab bisque adds just the right spicy note, and, if your cholesterol level allows it, the crab fingers and fried shrimp can’t be beat. 3855 Belt Line Rd., Addison. 214-247-1010. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mainstream Fish House. Owned by Kelly Haden, who also owns the fish market T.J. s a few doors down from Mainstream, and by the powers behind Mi Cocina, Mainstream’s name is deceiving: These people know food. Bread pot shrimp- a hollowed out loaf of sourdough filled with the sauteed sea creatures-and creamy crab cakes are not to be missed. Go for the daily specials-a good Canadian salmon for $12.95 or chargrilled tuna at $ 11.95 with two side orders. Key lime pie provides the perfect ending to a pleasant meal. Preston Forest Shopping Center, 11661 Preston Rd., Ste. 153,214-739-3474. Moderate.

Newport’s. Entering Newport’s in the West End’s historic brewery building, with its tables set on semicircular rings leading toward a seemingly bottomless pit, seems at first like descending into Dante’s Inferno. But the food is heavenly. New England clam chowder was rich, creamy, and delicious. Mesquite grilled Maine lobster was so meaty, moist, succulent, and filled with coral or roe that we ate almost everything but the gills. For dessert try the Kahlua Nest. 703 McKinney Ave., 214-954-0220. Moderate.

Sea Grill. Chef Andy Tun’s Thai roots put an Asian-American spin on classic seafood dishes like mussels in lemongrass broth, and smoked salmon appetizer with capers, caviar, dill, horseradish, and toasted pumpernickel. At night, with soft lighting, Harry Connick Jr. in the background, and a bottle from the nicely priced wine list, you might even forget you’re next door to a Fuddrucker’s and a Ming Garden. 2205 N. Central Expy., Piano, 214-509-5542. Moderate.

Southwestern

Blue Mesa Grill. This popular restaurant marries the flavors of Mexico and New Mexico, and does both well. The understated decor, with white stucco walls simply accented with brick, wood, and colorful primitive art, matches the pared-down, understated menu that delivers even more than it promises. The many sampler platters, whether of appetizers, desserts, or entrees, showcase the kitchen s range, which even offers food for dieters. Guacamole, made tableside, can’t be beaten, and anything smoked or grilled is outstanding. Skip dessert in favor of an icy blue margarita. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line Rd, Addison, 214-934-0165. Moderate.

Lavaca Cantina. The Cantina sits with three other restaurants in die entertainment-restaurant-bar complex known as Pepper Square. The menu offers cowboy chow-grilled food, Mexican specialties, and lots of stuff for snacking. The best thing we tried was the jerk chicken and Key lime mustard slaw sandwich. The Cantina steals the show at happy hour, when 26 types of tequila draw some serious attention and the appetizer list gets a workout. If you’re going just for the food, lunch is a better deal. 14902 Preston Rd., Ste, 700 in Pepper Square, 214-458-0458. Moderate.

Loma Luna Cafe. Muted, soft earth tones, subtle lighting, and good art provide a tranquil setting for meals that start with hot chips and two assertively spicy salsas. The “botanas platter,” a generous assortment of appetizers, also zings the taste buds. Entrees, though, can be curiously bland, as though made by a different chef altogether. Silky flan and honey-drizzled Navajo fry bread ends the meal on a sweet note. Brunch, offered on both Saturdays and Sundays, is a $10.95 bargain, and offers a welcome change of pace-eggs scrambled with smoked mushrooms, onions, and poblano peppers. Most entrees come with home fries and beans, and you’ll also be served blue com muffins, a fruit cup, a bottomless glass of champagne, and coffee. 8201 Preston Rd., 214-691-1552. Inexpensive.

Star Canyon. Chef Stephan Pyles, one of the founders of Southwestern cuisine, is now in his “new Texas” phase: Santiago Pena door handles, rawhide banquettes, hook ’em horns sconces, chuck wagon murals-and dish after dish combining native Texas fare with intricate, unexpected, and exotic flavors: Tamale tart, much like a quiche, mildly seasoned with garlic and lump crabmeat; lean, cilantro-cured venison sliced thin, arranged in a fan; and the ever-popular Cowboy rib-eye steak, bone-in Angus beef delectably singed over hickory flames. 3102 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-520-7827. Moderate to expensive.

Spanish

Macho’s Cafe And Bar. Owners Nestor and Chris Macho are trying to make their restaurant all things to all people-at lunch, pasta, salads, and soups attract the ladies; at dinner, the Cuban and Spanish dishes interest younger diners; and at Sunday brunch, the disparate assortment of Cuban, American, Italian, and Spanish fare draws the after-church crowd. Our response was accordingly mixed. Of the Cuban and Spanish offerings, we recommend the empanadas, pockets of dough filled with beef, olives, and raisins served with cranberry and jalapeno dipping sauces; the sweet and flavorsome plantains sauteed in butter; and the shrimp sauteed in a coconut batter and bathed in coconut milk. On a lunch visit, an artichoke unpleasantly doused in bread crumbs was sent back. The $8.95 brunch was also disappointing. The dishes suffered from sitting out on warming trays for too long, and the selections seem incongruous. 9739 N. Central Expy., 214-369-6466. Inexpensive to moderate.

Steakhouses

Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House. You need to pace your appetite in this comfortable neighborhood steakhouse, where chef-owner Richard Chamberlain often pops out of the kitchen to greet his customers. The perky garlicky aioli, spread on airy, lightly crispy rolls, can cause you to empty the breadbasket, but save room for the black bean soup, an intense, smoky bowl of pureed magic. The crisp deviled crab cakes, in their subtle mustard sauce, can also start a meal in fine style. As tender and juicy as the lamb chops are, beef is the reason to visit Chamberlain’s, and prime rib heads the roster of favorites. Horseradish-whipped mashed potatoes star on the list of side dishes, although the fresh, bacon-laced corn casserole finishes a close second. Desserts, while respectable, don’t reach the same heights as the food that precedes them. 5330 Belt Line Rd., Addison, 214-934-2467. Moderate.

Kirby’s steakhouse. The return of the old Greenville favorite is apparently pleasing a wide range of diners: clientele include dating teenagers, families with kids, and nostalgic past patrons. While the born-again Kirby’s is under new ownership, the clubby, comfortable restaurant relies heavily on recipes from die past: Steaks are cooked to perfection and have a hint of the forbidden flavor of fat. The new menu reflects ’90s notions with pasta, chicken, and seafood. The fried okra appetizer just may be the best in town. 3525 Greenville Ave., 214-821-2122. Moderate to expensive.

The Palm. The Palm came here during Dallas’ roaring ’80s and handily held its own during lean times as well. The insouciant service and lack of cushiony frills bespeak a brawling, brassy, particularly Texan attitude, and the food, from lamb to linguine. veal to seafood, vegetable sides to salads-and unforgettable steaks and lobster-is superb. This New York import flatters its clientele^-political figures, business executives, and VIPs-by splashing their colorful caricatures all over its walls. 701 Ross Ave., 214-698-0470. Expensive.

Paul’s Porterhouse. Expect the unexpected at Paul’s. Outside, you’d peg it for a $7.99 all-you-can-eat beef joint. Inside, you’ll see otherwise, as you check out the Remington sculptures, lofty menu prices, and a knock-out of a wine list (Wine Spectator just gave it one of the six “Awards of Excellence” in Dallas). Other surprises quickly follow, like grand wheels of mild cheddar at each table, and maybe a complimentary bowl of quail soup or dessert (if Paul’s around and in a good mood). Prime beef (including a 28-ounce porterhouse) shares the menu with plenty of seafood as well as deer, elk, ostrich, pheasant, and rabbit. 10960 Composite Dr., 214-357-0279. Expensive.

Texas Land & Cattle Company. Night or day, this place jumps, and it has carved out its own Dallas niche with popular entrees liked smoked sirloin, mesquite grilled trout, and fried pickles. Meals begin with loaves of sourdough bread and a bucket of shell-on peanuts-plain or roof-of-your-mouth-burning spicy. The shrimp cocktail, Caesar, and house salads are good starts. Then dive into the star attraction-meat. These thick slices of tender beef pair nicely with the heavenly skin-on homemade mashed potatoes, rich with garlic and pepper. But there are plenty of other choices from mesquite grilled shrimp to campfire chili. Don’t hesitate to fill up on the steak and potatoes, because none of the desserts are worth the calories, so far. 3130 Lemmon Ave., 214-526-4664. Moderate.

Thai

Chow Thai. This striking new restaurant-with an eclectic atmosphere that includes lozenge-shaped lighting and light wooden chairs- amazes both the eyes and the mouth. The restaurant’s cooks and owner, who are from Bangkok, offer their customers authentic Thai fare with some exciting original dishes such as the Chow Thai duck, deliciously marinated in an exotic honey sauce, and yum pla muk, calamari served in a bed of fresh vegetables. If you choose items from the hotter side of the menu, cool off with Thai tea, a special blend with soy milk that is extremely soothing. The young waiters are courteous, but don’t let them steer you away from the more exotic dishes. 5290 Belt Line Rd., Ste. 144, 214-960-2999. Moderate.

Toy’s Cafe. Previously known as Thai Toy, this place specializes in vegetarian and seafood dishes, and is a good spot for informal, wholesome, and inexpensive eating. Don’t miss Toy’s mee grob, pinkish rice noodles studded with scallions and cilantro, deep-fried in a non-cloying sweet-and-sour sauce; or the deep-fried marinated shrimp fingers wrapped in rice paper. Soups, which feed two to four, are among Toy’s strongest suits. Scrumptious main courses begin with broad, soft, fresh rice noodles stir-fried with tofu, shrimp, or crab. Cash only. 4422 B Lemmon Ave., 214-528-7233. Inexpensive.

Tuppee Tong. Although you can order the food with the heat toned down, don’t. You’ll miss the punch of a peanut sauce that comes with the satays (appetizers of skewered chicken, meat, or shrimp) and the kick of a red curry chicken (made daily from home-grown spices). Balance the heat with a Thai salad of carrot, cucumber, and radish slivers in sweetened vinegar, and try one of the eight or so soups offered here in three sizes. Tuppee Tong translates as “big golden spoon,” so keep in mind that portions are large. And, even better, prices are low. The Village at Collin Creek, 621 W. Piano Pkwy., Plano, 214-509-7979. Inexpensive.