Restaurant Listings

EDITED BY BARBARA GIBBONS



You’re hungry; and only Chinese food will do. Or maybe it’s Thai or some Texas bar-beque. Whatever you crave, Dallas has the place for you. Here’s information from the restaurants to help you choose.



KEY TO SYMBOLS:

$ Inexpensive, dinner entrees under $10

$$ Moderate, most entrees $10 to $25

$$$ Expensive, most $25 or more (Based on a typical dinner for one, not including drinks, tax and tip.)



Multiple Locations



CANTINA LAREDO, 4546 Belt Line, Addison, 214-458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill, 214-987-9192. Lunch and dinner. Noisy, festive, and touristy-tipico: crooning waiters, strolling mariachis, hut the food’s great anyway. Ask for the secret salsa: green napalm for sadomasochists. Best bets: cabri-to al horno, slow-baked goal meat roasted to melting tenderness, flavorful carnitas (roasted pork), mesquite-grilled quail, or Tampico-style orange roughy topped with lime butter, poblano, jack cheese, and guacamole. $$

MEXICAN



CRESCENT CITY CAFE, 2615 Commerce at GoodLatimer, 214-745-1900. Monday-Thursday lunch only, Friday and Saturday dinner and lunch, closed Sunday. 2822 McKinney Avenue, 214-969-1885. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Most popular: muffaletta and po’ boy sandwiches. Signature dish; Crawfish étouffée. Don’t miss the beignets. Muffaletta hot on 8-inch, fresh-baked Italian bun with salami, mozzarella, provolone and olive salad topping. $

CAJUN CREOLE



DEEP ELLUM CAFE, 2706 Elm, 214-741-9012. 5001 Belt Line, Addison, 214-392-0894. Lunch and dinner. Trendy spot with a trend-surfer’s menu to match: Singapore-style noodles, jerked pork chop marinated with scotch bonnet (habanero) chilies, lime and Jamaican spices served with grilled bananas, coconut rice, Vietnamese grilled chicken salad. Mom-style stuff: pot pie, chicken and dumplings, chicken-fried steak, grilled banana bread with vanilla ice cream and ginger butter sauce. $$

ECLECTIC



THE ITALIAN OVEN, 5500 Greenville Avenue at Old Town, 214-987-4002; 5142 Rufe Snow Drive, North Richland Hills, 817-788-5420; 1009 North Central Expressway, Piano 214-422-4399; 14902 Preston Road,214-458-6836. Lunch and dinner. This popularly priced Italian restaurant features an open kitchen with wood-fired ovens. You’ll find pastas, salads, pizzas, calzones, and quick service in a family-friendly setting, $

ITALIAN



LA MADELEINE FRENCH BAKERY ft CAFÉ 11930 Preston Road at Forest, 214-233-6446. Similar location at 3906 Lemmon Avenue at Reagan; other smaller locations with limited menus throughout Dallas. Breakfast, lunch and dinner every day. A French bakery that gr-r-mrew; this one has a quaint dining room with a country French menu.

FRENCH BAKERY



8.0 RESTAURANT AND BAR, 2800 Routh, 214-979-0880. 111 East Third at Commerce, Sundance Square, 817-336-0880, Fort Worth. Ocho quesadillas with spinach and mushrooms. “Mas Chicken Salad,” with balsamic sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, veggie enchiladas, chipotle chili made with Shiner Bock beer, sweet jerk chicken. Too much? Try the “Green Plate” (vegetarian). Quirky cuisine; it’s a mix of Cajun/Creole, Southwest, Tex-Mex, Italian, and much more. $

ECLECTIC



SZECHWAN PAVILION, 7402 Greenville Avenue at Pineland, Vickery Park, 214-369-9822. 8409 Preston Road at Northwest Highway, 214-368-4303. Lunch and dinner everyday; no buffet. 1152 North Buckner Boulevard, 214-321-7599. Lunch and dinner everyday, lunch and dinner buffets daily. The buffet is a snack-surfer’s bargain at only 499 at lunchtime, 6.99 at dinner. The menu’s hot and spicy sizzling platters are the specialties. “Wonderful Shrimp” is marinated in Chinese wine, ginger, honey and garlic, sizzled with veggies and chiles. There’s plenty for the tender-tongued, too: Moo Shu Beef, sweet ’n’ sour shrimp, chicken with cashews; lots to please vegetarians as well. Beer and wines available. Takeout and free local delivery, too. $

CHINESE



MOMO’S PASTA/OSTERIA DA MOMO, 2704 Elm, 214-748-4222.3312Knox,214-521-3009. 5290 Belt Line, Addison, 214-386-7373. Lunch and dinner. Once strictly pasta, Momo’s offers a mar-velously complete descriptive menu of classic Italian dishes. All three share the same menu, expert preparation, and bargain prices. Wine available, but you can bring your own. Unusual pastas; for example, tagliatelleal cocoa. It’s tossed with peas, Gruyère, and prosciutto. $$

ITALIAN



MORTON’S OF CHICAGO, 501 Elm, Dallaas. 214-741-2277. 14831 Midway Road near Belt Line, Addison. 214-233-5858. dinners only. Succulent steaks, swordfish, and fresh vegetables with unique rableside presentations. The downtown location has a speakeasy feel; enter through the basement door. The Addison location has a more traditional uptown atmosphere. $$$

STEAK



GLORIA’S RESTAURANT, 4140 Lemmon Avenue at Douglas, 214-521-7576. 600 West Davis Street at Llewellyn, 214-948-3672. Lunch and dinner seven days. Spicy Salvadoran dishes, similar to Mexican food, yet distinctive, are the specialty here. Gloria’s second location opened in January. First, try the appetizers: tamales wrapped in banana leaves and “Papusas” (handmade com tortillas stuffed with cheese and/or pork) Everybody loves the Salvadoran-style jumbo shrimp sautéed with lots of garlic. There’s cattish grilled with sweet onions, charbroiled steak served with black beans and rice, meal-size soups and flavorful beer from El Salvador. There’s a Mexican menu, too. Either way, finish with silky chocolate flan. $

SALVADORAN/MEXICAN



PASTA PLUS, 17194 Preston, Suite 150, at Campbell, 214-713-7181. 6011 Royal Lane at Preston, 214-373-3999. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Italian bistro with a gourmet take-out shop specializing in fresh pastas, all prepared exclusively with olive oil, fresh ingredients and no preservatives, no tomato paste, roux, or thickening agents. Breads, desserts, and sausages made on premises. There’s also an alternative “light” menu that trims fat and calories by substituting skim milk cheeses, less oil. Does eggplant florentine with grilled polenta sound like denial’ It’s pasta plus more, way more. $

ITALIAN



DUNSTON’S STEAK HOUSE, 5423 West Lovers Lane at Inwood, 214-352-8320. Lunch and din-net; closed Sundays. 3565 Forest Lane, 214-241-9204. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays, closed Sundays. 11817 E. Lake June, near Hickory Tree and Balch Springs, 214-285-2879. Lunch and dinner weekdays, and Saturdays and Sundays. 8526 Harry Hines Boulevard, 214-637-3513. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays and Sundays. Moderately priced comfy country-style steakhouse with serve-your-self salad bar, mesquite-grilled steaks and chicken, burgers, baby hack ribs, shrimp and similar staples. Home-style lunches, hearty soups, sandwiches. Popular with families and seniors. $$

STEAK



SAM’S CAFE, 100 Crescent Court at McKinney and Maple, 214-855-2233. 8411 Preston Road at Berkshire Lane in Preston Center West, 739-2288. Lunch daily and Saturday, dinner nightly, Sunday brunch. Southwest-style grill with an imaginative menu, including chili-rubbed fresh tuna. crayfish cakes with pico de gallo and black beans, and a Southwest style calzone stuffed with chicken, roast pepper, and go;? cheese. The cinnamon bunuelo is filled with Mexican vanilla bean ice cream and warm caramel. $S

SOUTHWEST



SAMBUCA CAFE AND JAZZ BAH, 2618 Elm, 214-744-0820. 15207 Addison Road, 214-385-8455. Monday to Friday lunch and dinner, late night Sunday to Wednesday, open to 1 a.m., Thursday to Saturday until 2 a.m., closed holidays. Live jazz every night, enclosed terrace. Most popular dishes: salmon served over spinach and gorgonzola, spinach-tomato linguine: with smoked chicken, shrimp and harissa, gnocchi with wild mushrooms, Couscous Marrakesh. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



SFUZZI, 2504 McKinney at Fairmount, 214-871-2606 (Chef Steve Singer). 15101 Addison at Belt Line, Addison, 214-960-2606 (Chef Kevin Ascolese). 2408 Preston at Park, 214-964-0700 (Chef Dan Drayer). Lunch and dinner every day, brunch on Sunday. Pizzas from wood-burning oven, lush raviolis plump with smoked chicken, tagliatelle in Gorgonzola cream. Fall Pasta Festival dishes, seasonal features. Frozen Sfuzzi (a frosted bellini). Inexpensive wine list. The available and semi-available begin gathering at the bar immediately after work in search of Mr. Right or Ms. Right Now. $$

ITALIAN



SONNY BRYAN’S, 302 North Market, 214-744-1610. 2202 Inwood, 214-357-7120. 325 North Saint Paul, 214-979-0102. 4030 N. MacArthur, Las Colinas, 214-650-9564.4701 Frankford, 214-447-0102. Lunch and dinner. The best-known name in Dallas barbecue. Huge portions of smokehouse meats: beef brisket, pork ribs, sausage, ham, pulled pork, with traditional “sides.” For mini appetites, try a sandwich and two vegetables. Bottomless pits really get their money’s worth for $16: a full collection of all seven smokehouse meats or a full side of ribs plus slaw, fries, and a salad. $

BARBECUE



Downto



LOMBARDI’S, 311 North Market Street at Ross, 214-747-0322. Lunch weekdays, dinner every night. Homesick Easterners will snuggle into this New York-style Italian eatery. Start with homemade focaccia bread from the wood-fired oven. Then share a Tuscan seafood stew brimming with lobster, calamari, mussels, and scallops over lin-guini so there’s room for tiramisu, Cioccolato con Cioccolato (chocolate with chocolate cake), or New York-style cheesecake. $$

ITALIAN



ST. PETE’S DANCING MARLIN, 2730 Commerce Street at Crowdus, 214-698-1511. Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday, closed Sundays. Chef John Zotos’ menu includes: grilled beef or tuna steak, rosemary-grilled veggies, a dozen or so contemporary pastas and pizza choices plus whims of the day. John and his brother Pete, owner, are deep-sea fishing fans-hence the name. $

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY GRILL



daddy JACK’S, 1916 Greenville at Ross Avenue, 214-826-4910. Dinner seven nights. Owner/chef Jack Chaplin re-created a typical backstreet Boston chowderhouse, right down to the live lobsters. Perfectly prepared fresh fish, sea-scented lobster bisque, and clam chowder will have you talking like a Yankee local. Featured in season: fresh softshell crabs, stone crabs, oysters, scampi, mussels marinara, grilled tuna with lobster brandy sauce, salmon with Dijon caper cream sauce.$$

SEAFOOD



DAKOTA’S, 600 North Akard at Ross, 214-740-4001. Lunch and dinner. Most popular: sword-fish, lamb, five-pepper chicken. Signature dish: lamb chops with minted angel hair pasta. Menu lists calories and fat on the Dakota signature dish: citrus-marinated chicken with herbed wild rice and asparagus. Go for the vegetable lasagna. Use the saved calories for vanilla bean cheesecake with gingerbread crust and minted pistachio sauce, apple pecan chimichanga, or Kahlua low-fat, mile-high pie made with Haagen Dazs frozen yogurt. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



FAUSTO’S OVEN, Hyatt Regency Hotel, 300 Reunion, 214-712-7144. Dinner only. Upscale Italian with the Hyatt touch: classy setting, smooth service, stylish spin on popular pastas, pizzas, seafood, other Mediterranean favorites. $$

ITALIAN



THE FRENCH ROOM, (Adolphus Hotel) 1321 Commerce at Akard, 214-742-8200, ext. 191. Dinner; closed Sunday. Flawless food and service have always been the hallmarks here. “Neoclassic” is lighter French, not so austere as the old “Nouvelle:” boneless quail filled with wild mushrooms, roasted tuna au poivre. Conde Nast Traveler readers’ poll: top 50 in USA. Afternoon tea: cucumber sandwiches and petits fours on Villeroy and Boch china. $$$

FRENCH NEOCLASSIC



GREEN ROOM, 2715 Elm at Crowdus, 214-748-7666. Lunch and dinner Monday through Friday; dinner only Saturday and Sunday. A green neon sign outside says “room”-a cryptic way of saying “Green Room.” Despite the funky digs, there’s grown-up cooking going on here under the practiced hand of Christopher Pyun, a Culinary Institute of America grad who comes to Dallas after stints at Le Cirque and Daniel in New York City. His plan is to create French style food with less pricey ingredients. Look for spicy Creole input: ravioli with crayfish and andouille sausage, swordfish with fennel in shellfish saffron sauce, crème brulée. Wines by the glass and an interesting list: of beers make this a popular place. $$

FRENCH NOUVELLE/CREOLE



MONICA aca Y ALLA, 2914 Main at Oakland, 214-748-7140. Lunch Monday to Friday, dinner Tuesday to Thursday 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Friday, Saturday, and Sunday late night to 11 p.m. Business crowd attracted to Deep Ellum at lunchtime. Dinner draws singles, young professionals; weekends, couples, large groups enjoying a night out. Latin and jazz bands, dancing; This is an eclectic spot where appropriate attire includes anything from tuxedos to Bermuda shorts. Southwest and Tex-Mex dishes, plus pasta. Most popular: Greene Pasta (named for owner Monica Greene), and Mexican Lasagna. The restaurant’s signature dishes include Pumpkin Ravioli, and healthy but delicious fat-free black beans. $$

MEXICAN



NEWPORT’S, 703 McKinney Avenue in The Brewery, 214-954-0220. Lunch weekdays, dinner seven nights. Seafood is the feature here, prepared simply or lavished with spicy sauces and seasonings. Best bets: chipotle tuna or blackened snapper with crabmeat, topped with lobster sauce. Always bustling and busy, but expect good service. Tablecloths, fresh flowers and soft jazz com-bine tor a relaxing ambience. Call for wine dinner schedule. $$

SEAFOOD



OUTBACK PUB, 1701 North Market, 214-761-9355. Lunch and dinner seven days, open to 2 a.m. Steaks with quaint Aussie-inspired names (Alice Springs, Fair Dinkum Deal). Chicken-fried steak turns up on this menu as “Chook steak.” Plus oversize meat pies (called “pasty” here). Dundee stew served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread the size of a bowling ball; fish ’n’ chips, but no shrimp on the barby. For dessert: pavolo-va, the Australian marshmallow meringue cake (you can feel the cavities forming already). Great beer list. $

AUSTRALIAN



PALM RESTAURANT, 701 Ross at Market, 214-698-0470. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday and Sunday. Enormous lobsters and hub-cap-size steaks are the feature here in this quirky clone of the New York City institution. Here they still have sawdust floors and walls tiled with celebrity caricatures. Megabites of protein on every plate; so if your appetite is normal, consider sharing {or take home a doggy hag). Even the spinach is high calorie, but wonderful. Bustling bar, lots of booths. $$

STEAK



PLANET HOLLYWOOD, 603 Munger in the West End, 214-749-7827. Lunch and dinner 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Newest of the food-as-entertainment glit-zoramas, a virtual museum of movie memorabilia: Bonnie and Clyde’s bullet-ridden getaway car, Dolly Parton’s best whorehouse outfit; Batman’s jumpsuit; life-size nearly nude replica of part-owner Sylvester Stallone. Film clips are great. If you care, get in line. No reservations. Pizza, pasta, burgers, bar. Celebrity-owners from Hollywood make occasional appearances for dinner; this is a fun place for kids and families. $

AMERICAN



YEGUA CREEK BREWING COMPANY, 2920 North Henderson, 214-824-BREW. Lunch and dinner. Pig heaven for beer aficionados; all beer is brewed on the premises. Beer selections are appropriately paired with adroitly prepared entrées with a Southwest sting. Try salmon in beer batter and “beerbecued” buffalo brisket tacos, or black bean ravioli topped with Asiago cream sauce. They’ve outdone themselves with pizza ideas: smoked venison and hoar sausage with ancho chilies and wild mushrooms. It’s a bucket o’ fun. $

SOUTHWESTERN



Northwest



ADELMO’S, 4537 Cole at Knox, 214-559-0325. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. You’ve never had veal until you’ve ordered Adelmo’s 20-ounce USDA prime veal chop with green peppercorns, priciest pick on an otherwise moderate menu. Rack of lamb, lobster ravioli, crab cakes spiced with hot harissa and pesto, lamb sausage on couscous, gnocchi with gorgonzola cream sauce, crème brulée for dessert. Fall feature: antelope, venison. Cuisine an artful blend of French, Italian, and Middle Eastern$$

MEDITERRANEAN



ANZU, 4620 McKinney Avenue at Knox, 214-526-7398. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only on Saturday and Sunday. An East meets West menu featuring lemongrass-grilled shrimp with Bloody Mary granita; rare seared tuna strip steak with wasabi mashed potatoes, jumbo scallops; salmon in a lotus leaf with tomatillo-ginger sauce-Giant pot stickers with spinach-ricotta in Italian plum tomato sauce. Wonderful and trendy. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



ARCODORO BAR, 2520 Cedar Springs at Fairmount and Routh, 214-871-1924. Lunch and dinner to midnight, (2 a.m. Friday and Saturday)- Pomodoro’s little sister shares chefs Victor Orms and Salvatore Gisellu, who serve up thick pizzas and roast chicken, plus lots of vegetarian choices, and tirami]su for dessert. Latin music and Italian frescoes bring loyal locals and European expats who eat late. $

ITALIAN, NORTHERN



BEAU NASH RESTAURANT AND BAR, (Hotel Crescent Court) 400 Crescent Court, Maple and McKinney, 214-871-3242. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner 365 days, Sunday brunch, Gassy brasserie, up-to-the-minute menu. Power breakfasts, exec lunches, late night jazz and weekend brunches. Yummmm: mustard-seared ahi tuna with black linguini-herbed mascarpone; Thai shellfish risotto with green curry, eggplant with Paula Lambert’s feta. Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$

INTERNATIONAL



BOB’S STEAK AND CHOP HOUSE, 4300 Lemmon at Wycliff, 214-528-9446. Dinner, closed Sunday. Dark wood and leather booths, white tablecloths, Frank Sinatra and Patsy Cline in the background. Most popular: filet mignon. Signature dish: cote d’boeuf. Bob’s brings business people on weekdays and special occasions. “Cigar friendly.” $$

STEAK



STEAK BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB, 2508 Maple across from Hotel Crescent Court, 214-871-1333. Lunch and dinner. Veddy British sporting decor, menu similar to India Palace. $

INDIAN



BUFFALO CLUB, 2800 Routh, 214-220-2465. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturday, closed Sunday and holidays. Another trendy spot for culinary adventurers, where the menu may be worth the tradeoff in din. Red snapper on black bean chili, seared fresh tuna steak served rare, pan-fried buttermilk-breaded chicken, angel hair with grilled shrimp and tomato basil fondue. $$

ECLECTIC



CAFE MADRID, 4501 Travis, #133, at Armstrong, 214-528-1731. Dinner six nights, closed Sunday. Spanish taverna serving home-style meals: real Spanish omelets (flat potato frittata), marinated beef on skewers, octopus vinaigrette, clams in wine sauce. For fall: rabbit in onion sauce, roast leg of lamb, veal stew. Check the blackboard for the daily specials; there’s no printed menu. With a stand-up tapas bar and al fresco dining, you’ll swear you’re in Spain. Olé! $

SPANISH



CAFE MARGAUX, 4242 Lomo Alto at Lemmon, 214-520-1985. Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; Sunday brunch. Veteran restaurateur Kay Agnew has settled into the voluptuous setting formerly occupied by the Belvedere, wisely keeping some of its classics while putting a stylish spin on her own Commander’s Palace-type refinement of Cajun-Creole. The menu features all the traditional dishes plus salmon with dill, beer-battered snapper in lemon-caper butter, and Veal Forestiere with brandied wild mushrooms. $$

NEW ORLEANS TRADITIONAL



CAFE MEDITERRANEE, 5950A Royal Lane at Preston, 214-692-7716. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner Saturday, brunch weekends. Mediterranean and Moroccan flavors beckon in this appealing restaurant with Italian, Greek and North African influences. Begin with King David Salad, not simply asalad, but an assortment of middle Eastern appetizers: hummus, tahini, felafel, dolmades. Choose the layered Mediterranean Pasta Ricotta Pie as an encore, grilled ribeye with portobello mushrooms, vermicelli and grilled vegetables, pistachio-crusted red snapper Moroccan style with raisin-dotted asparagus, or grilled duck breast with polenta and gorgonzola. Side dishes rice pilaf and eggplant, veggie couscous, risotto with asparagus. Desserts: mascarpone cheese cake, apricot baklava, lemon pistachio tart topped with raspberry coulis. Non-smoking. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



CAFE PACIFIC, 24 Highland Park Village at Preston and Mockingbird, 214-526-1170. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Loyal locals come for the fresh seafood, notably hot smoked salmon with sesame spinach and Pommery mustard sauce, succulent shrimp crunched with orange pepper, perfectly grilled catch of the day with a selection of sauces. Indulgent desserts. Well-selected, fairly priced wine list. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



CAFE PANDA, 7979 Inwood at Lovers, 214-902-9500. Lunch and dinner. Spicy Szechuan dishes and other favorites including Peking duck, quail, hearty Hunan beef, tangy seafood chowder, sweet and sour tangerine beef. Tableside coffee and tea ceremonies, fried ice cream, classical music, pink tablecloths, and excellent service. Gourmet take-out and fax orders for nearby delivery. $

CHINESE



CAFE SOCIETY, 4514 Travis Street at Armstrong, #133 Dallas 214-528-6543. Coffeehouse with blackboard menu of contemporary grill dishes, pastas, salads, imaginative vegetable dishes, spectacular desserts in inspiring surroundings. S

COFFEEHOUSE



CALLUAUD’S, 5405 West Lovers Lane at Inwood, 214-352-1997. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Smoking permitted only in bar area. Innovative “Gourmet Leger” menu offers terrine of pheasant and vegetables, fresh ravioli with wild mushrooms, eggplant caviar style wrapped in smoked salmon, veal tenderloin coated with fresh herbs and roasted with feta and sun-dried tomatoes, boneless quail on baked apples and pilaf. Or try these favorites from the regular menu: lobster soufflé, rabbit, sweetbreads, escargot, classic onion soup. Wonderfully presented rack of lamb, Dover sole. Indulge on Lover’s as if near the Eiffel Tower. C’est magnifique $$$

FRENCH



CARRELLI’S RISTORANTE, 12219 Coit at LBJ and Forest, 214-386-7931. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday and holidays. Decor: Ristorante baroque. Roman columns, fountains, chandeliers, gold leaf, enough to stage a Godfather movie wedding. Yes, they do wedding parties with practiced precision from antipasto freddi to zuppa inglesa. Veal from piccatta to parmigiana; 13 pasta permutations predictably sauced, layered or filled; a ciop-pino that emptied out the Mediterranean.

ITALIAN



CELEBRATION, 4503 West Lovers between Inwood and Lemmon, 214-351-5681. Lunch and dinner, closed holidays. Real home cookin’ served family-style in a big ol’ house (actually three old houses, merged). Hearty down-home (are: chicken-fried steak, fried catfish, pot roast, country vegetable plate, Specialties: “Chicken St. Caroline” (grilled breast, mushrooms, and mozzarella), hot fruit cobbler, New York-style cheesecake. $

HOME COOKING



CHEZ GERARD, 4444 McKinney at Knox, 214-522 -6865. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Cosy, softly lit, romantic Paris bistro atmosphere. Fresh flowers, soft music, rose-patterned tablecloths, candles, patio seating in nice weather. Most popular: “Tournedos Felix Faure” (black peppercorn mushrooms and cream sauce). Also on the menu: rabbit, veal, liver, sweetbreads,

FRENCH COUNTRY



ClTY CAFE, 5757 West Lovers Lane, 214-351-2233. Bustling, unpretentious bistro; Chef Katie Schma offers a polished take on new American cuisine with French and Mediterranean touches. Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award for its wide selection of reasonably priced wines. Winter menu features such choices as wild game, lamb shanks, pork roulade, lots of root vegetables, and tempting desserts. Take out and catering. $$

AMERICAN



CRYSTAL PAGODA RESTAURANT, 4516 McKinney, 214-526-3355. Lunch and dinner. A lovely setting with food to match, including a splendid selection of spicy Szechwan dishes. $$$

CHINESE



EUREKA!, 4011 Villanova, 214-369-7767. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Monday-Saturday. Sunday 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Right in tune with the times, this cafe has a high flavor, low-fat Pan-Cultural menu that’s garnering rave reviews. Try veggie “Eureka!bobs” or the “Eureka! Wrappers”: Armenian bread rollups. Trices are as low as the calories. There’s no wine; you can B.Y.O.B. And eat your veggies too. $

NEW AMERICAN



HENRY CHEN’S, 3701 Northwest Highway at Marsh Lane, 214-956-9560. Lunch and dinner. Choose orange beef, gingered pork, giant shrimp steamed with minced garlic, or one of the perfectly prepared vegetable dishes. Chili heds will appreciate the items marked with hot peppers: curry-chicken, Kung Po shrimp, and Hunan beef. $$

CHINESE



HIGHLAND PARK CAFE, 69 Highland Park Village, Mockingbird and Preston, 214-521-7300. Lunch and dinner, everyday. French, Italian, Mediterranean spices flavor the strong Middle-Eastern influences on the menu here: lamb over tabouli, salmon with a cilantro vinaigrette, tri-color linguine with lamb sausage. Favorites: Harira soup (lentil and garbanzo beans), vegetable terrine with goat cheese, Escargot Forestiere, salmon carpaccio. Try the meal-size French green bean salad with smoked chicken. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



HOFSTETTER’S, 3840 West Northwest Highway, #400, at Marsh and Midway, 214-358-7660. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Classic Beef Wellington, Wiener schnitzel, jager (veal) schnitzel, veal Zurich, bratwurst are the standbys-Fall brings game: pheasant, wild boar, venison, and rabbit. For vegetarians there’s a richly indulgent vegetable platter with spaerzle (then follow it with Viennese pastries). Forest green tablecloths, French windows, lots of plants make this a lunchtime favorite with senior male execs during the week. Other times, a mix of families and couples. (Kindermenu for children.) $$

GERMAN

HOTEL ST. GERMAIN, 2516 Maple at McKinney, 214-871-2516. Dinner Friday and Saturday with reservations and other nights for private parties. In nice weather there’s a walled New Orleans-style courtyard. It’s the perfect place to indulge on crab custard and creamy bisques, fresh seafood. They claim CO serve the best potatoes in Dallas. Regular clientele, mostly local prosperous business people who appreciate the polished old world service. Special dinner for $65 arranged specially in advance. $$$

FRENCH NOUVELLE



JAVIER’S RESTAURANTE MEXICANO & CANTINA, 4912 Cole at Monticello, 214-521-4211. Dinner, closed holidays, Mexico City upscale menu borrows from continental cuisine: Filete Cantinflas beef tenderloin stuffed with Chihuahua cheese, topped with chile and avocado). Or Barro de Navidad jumbo shrimp with a spicy orange /tomato sauce. Cabrito fajitas are a winner. $$

MEXICAN-CONTINENTAL



JENNIVINE, 3605 McKinney at Lemmon, 214-528-6010. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. If they had beds and served breakfast, this could be a B&B: Olde English ambience in restored turn-of-the-century home nestled in a traditional garden where Jenni picks herbs. If you think Brit food is boring, sample Jenni’s roast duckling with mangos and homemade marmalade. Relishes, salsa, fruit vinegars, and chutneys simmer in the kitchen and sell well in the shop. $$

ENGLISH



JUNIPER RESTAURANT, 2917 Fairmount at Cedar Springs, 214-855-0700. Dinner only, closed Sunday and Monday. Introduces herb-infused rack of lamb, rosemary-scented chicken, pheasant breast with wild mushrooms and Madeira pepper sauce, grilled tuna with pistachios and sun-dried tomato butter. Includes vichyssoise, the classic potato soup. Decide early and order a soufflé. Nice wine list features many French finds for few francs. Outdoor dining available. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY



KATHLEEN’S ART CAFE, 4424 Lovers Lane at the Tollway, 214-691-2355. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Funky place with art on the wall and meatloaf in the oven. Homestyle warmth comes paired with orginality. Self-taught chef-owner Kathleen Ellington loves to bake and comes up with such delights as ancho chili fudge pie (fudge with a kick), sesame-crusted catfish, meatloaf pizza, chili rellenos, smoked pork chops with apple brandy-wonderful early morning breakfasts and brunches, too. Lots of inexpensive Texas wines to try. Down the street at Kathleen’s Art Bakery, most dishes are available as take-out. $

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



L’ANCESTRAL, 4514 Travis Street at Knox, 214-528-1081. Lunch and dinner, closed Sundays. Attention traditionalists: Escape the current culinary din and glitz with a trip to the french countryside: herb-scented lamb chops, hearty country paté, garlicky snails in cognac and cream, even sweetbreads. Everybody loves the steak au poivre, pounded with cracked pepper and flamed with brandy. Desserts are traditional: clafouti (baked country pudding), crème caramel, even “Floating Island” for heaven’s sake. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY



LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB, 500$ Maple at Carlisle and Wolf, 214-521-7777. Lunch and dinner no lunch on Saturday, Sunday brunch. Edwardian English dinning room with brass chandeliers, unique dome ceiling. There are potted palms, fresh flowers, silver dining cans, all geared to make you feel pampered and privileged. The bar is like an upscale cosy pub. Prime rib, thick steaks, and enormous hand-carved roast beef sandwiches are the main features. You can get take-out or evening delivery. Save room for dessert; it should be the English trifle with strawberries. Winner of the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award, Lawry’s boasts an extensive list that’s moderately priced. $$

STEAK



LOMA LUNA CAFE, 8201 Preston, 214-691-1552. Lunch and dinner. Like a trip to Santa Fe without the airfare. Warm adobe decor suggests a hacienda. Smoke-sweet scent sharpens your appetite for the house specialty: meats, seafood, and chicken, gently grilled over pecan shells. Have yours Santa Fe style with posole (hominy) and beans. Desserts are unique: Indian bread pudding or cajeta sundae (homemade vanilla ice cream sauced with sweet caramelized goat’s milk). $

SOUTHWESTERN



THE MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK, 2821 Turtle Creek, 214-559-2100. Lunch and dinner. Antique-filled historic Italianate mansion, with spectacular carved in lay ceiling. World famous and full of surprises (the wine cellar is a silver vault). Conde Nast Traveler readers place it among the top 50 restaurants in the U.S. Its vaulted stature is due in part to executive chef Dean Fearing. Not yet 40, he’s the acknowledged originator of what has come to be known as Southwest cuisine, He’s wildly imaginative in combining Southern, country, Western, and regional ethnic influences, then tem-pering them with die refined techniques of his clas-sical training to create the stylish dishes that set. the world on its heels. Consider: wild boar with cumin black beans and watermelon relish; homemade venison chorizo with cracked mustard, a Southwestern version of veal piccatta on tomatil-lo rice, savory Louisiana crab cakes. Very extensive and pricy wine list. $$$

SOUTHWESTERN



MATTITO’S CAFE MEXICANO, 4311 Oak Lawn, #100, at Herschel, 214-526-8181. Lunch and dinner. Upscale casual fiesta decor. Lovely bar, covered patios, private catering, heart-healthy low-fat vegetarian dishes, veggie fajitas, beef tenderloin chicken fajitas, fat-free cowboy beans. Most popular: chile rellenos stuffed with Jack cheese, raisins, and Texas pecans. Kiddie menu. S

TEX-MEX



MIA’S, 4322 Lemmon at Wycliff, 214-526-1020. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and major holidays. Mia, short for “Mama Mia” (my momma), co-owns this Dallas standard with her husband, chef Butch, and her son, manager Paul. $

TEX-MEX



OLD WARSAW, 2610 Maple, 214-528-0032. Dinner seven nights. Continental dining the way you remember it: lush surroundings, hushed service, menusen francais, the twinkle of candles and diamonds, the scent of flowers and Joy. Carts glide by tables as salads are tossed, various viandes are flambéed, crepes are jubileed. There’s foie gras and caviar, steak tartare, and “Salade Cesar.” (The only intrusion on your reverie is the updated price list, ) Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$$

CONTINENTAL



PARIGI, 3311 Oak Lawn at Hall, 214-521-0295. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and Monday. Upscale bistro with marble tables, fresh flowers, and open kitchen. The kind of menu that sounds appealing and healthy at the same time: whole wheat fusilli with herbs and feta in a red pepper sauce, chive-mushroom fettucini with chicken, crimini mushrooms and corn in a ginger-lime cream sauce. Then there’s tri-color linguine with shrimp, yellow tomatoes, sugar snap peas, and basil pesto. Most popular: tenderloin with coarsegrained mustard and roasted “shallot-smashed potatoes.” Fun first course: make-your-own pizzerias (mini pizzas). Limited wine list. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



PEGGY SUE BBQ, 6600 Snider Plaza at Daniels/Hillcrest, 214-987-9188. Lunch and dinner. The local favorite. Lean, smoky brisket, meaty baby back ribs glazed with brown sugar, juicy melt-in-your-mouth chicken pink from the smoke, Southern squash casserole, new potato salad, veggies steamed with lemon butter, com plain and simple. The chicken-fried steak is bartered in buttermilk; pinto beans are fresh, not canned. If there’s no tomorrow, try Texas Torpedos: cream cheese-filled, breaded, deep fat-fried jalapenos, or the fried pie, or peach cobbler in cinnamon batter. Club membership required for drinks. $

BARBECUE



POMODORO, 2520 Cedar Springs at Fairmunt and Routh, 214-871-1924. Lunch and dinner week-nights, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. Northern and regional Italian; clean, white tiled interior, yellow tablecloths, paintings by Sardinian artists, modem Italian music. Fans rave about the brus-chetta, signature pastas, the risotto made with buffalo mozzatella. $$

ITALIAN



POPOLOS CAFE, 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center at Preston and Royal, 214-692-5497. Lunch and dinner, seven days. Smoking only at the bar. This is the comfortable sort of place where you could happily eat every night: white tablecloths, candlelight, fresh roses on each table, quiet jazz at low level, original paintings , and the kind of food you never tire of. For a pretty perch, nestle into the heated/cooled screened sun porch built around a huge tree. Chef Mark Conzales shows his Napa Valley roots in his able version of Italian nuova cucina with lots of low-fat, low-cholesterol entrées. Many enticing vegetarian dishes, too. Try the extra hot and spicy “pizza for the brave,” or meatless lasagna with wood-fire grilled vegetables. Most popular dish: angel hair pasta with shrimp. Festive for fall: mushroom risotto, $$

MEDITERRANEAN



QUADRANGLE GRILL, 2800 Routh, 214-979-9022. Lunch and dinner Sunday brunch. Good selection of wines by the glass, including Texas wines. Smoke-free at lunch. Grazer’s paradise: wonderful jalapeno cornbread, trendy pizzas on homemade herbed focaccia bread (smoked chick -en, spinach, pine nuts, red onion, and goat cheese). Great grilled vegetables served over rosemary fettucine. Coffee bar with latte includes Thai-iced espresso (steamed with sugared milk and topped with foam). $

AMERICAN



THE RIVIERA, 7709 Inwood, 214-351-0094. Dinner only. Smoke free. The Riviera continues to flag down awards with its practiced rendition of classics: updated rack of lamb with chutney, escargots with tortelloni, quail, and polenta. It’s one of the top five Dallas restaurants according to readers of Conde Nast Traveler, and D readers voted it Best Restaurant in Dallas in our 1995 Readers’ Choice survey. It’s also won the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$$

FRENCH/ITALIAN



THE RUSSIAN ROOM, 500 Hotel Crescent Court, 214-922-3333. Dinner. Closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, A surprising treasure upstairs over the deli. First-class Russian restaurant serving shash-lik, Stroganoff, chicken Kiev, traditional herring with dill potatoes, stuffed potatoes, stuffed cabbage, homemade blinis rolled in salmon roe or caviar.

EASTERN EUROPEAN



RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 5922 Cedar Springs at Inwood, 214-902-8080. Dinner only. Most popular: cornfed steaks. Signature: shrimp rémoulade, BBQ shrimp. Yes, there is a vegetable platter, even though it’s not on the menu. Attracts business and professional people, special celebrations. This is the home of serious steaks. Country French building overlooks meandering stream. Upholstered antique church pews in the oak bar; white tablecloths and brass candles with frosted shades in the dining room; 1,200 bottles of wine on view behind an arch foretell an extensive wine list. $$$

STEAK



SAMMY’S bar-b-Q, 2126 Leonard Street near Maple, 214-880-9064. Lunch only 11-3; closed Sundays. Hungry guy-size servings of smoked brisket, succulent ribs, turkey, slow-roasted pork loin, sausage. Sinfully rich sides of country-style casseroles: potato, zucchini, barbecue beans. Slab-size sandwiches and creamy slaw, then big wedges of apple or pecan pie for dessert. If that’s your style, this is your place! No smoking. Take-out and local delivery; seasonal outdoor dining. $

BARBECUE



S a D oyster COMPANY, 2701 McKinney at Boll, 214-880-0111. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday, holidays. Southern Gulf Coast and New Orleans-style seafood; red-checked tablecloths. Casual, bustling oyster bar with fresh seafood, thick and steamy gumbo, fresh fish simply broiled to perfection. $$

SEAFOOD



SIPANGO, 4513 Travis, 214-522-2411. Lunch and dinner. Ron Corcoran, Keith Jones, and Matthew Antonovich have hit upon a recipe for success that has made this one of the trendiest restaurants around. The entire menu is imaginative, from the pastas with a definite Mediterranean flair to selections from the oak tired grill to the wood-fired oven pizzas. Even if you feed on the attention, you’ll enjoy the tastes. $$

CALIFORNIA/ITALIAN



STAR CANYON RESTAURANT, 3102 Oak Lawn, #144, at Cedar Springs, 214-520-7827. Lunch and dinner. Here’s where the stars at night shine big and bright, but none more sparkling than homeboy celebrity chef Stephan Pyles himself presiding over the restaurant’s open kitchen where a scurry of young chefs slice, dice, stir, and whirl native ingredients into jalapeno-stuffed smoked quail, wood-roasted rabbit enchiladas, Gulf Coast red snapper on Texas jambalaya dolloped with chilipiquin aioli, chile relleno filled with black bean chili, steak ’n’ cowboy beans. $$

NEW TEXAS



UNCLE JULIO’S, 4125 Lemmon at Douglas, 214-520-6620. Lunch and dinner. Traditional hacienda style; portions large enough to feed the entire village. Mesquite-grilled meats and poultry, cabri-to, fajitas, spicy ribs, quail among the favorites, served with freshly made tortillas (they make their own). Signature dish: Plato Gordo (literally “fat plate,” be forewarned). Extensive plants and landscaping; festive (read: loud) atmosphere. $

MEXICAN



WATEL’S, 1923 McKinney at Harwood, 214-720-0323. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays, closed holidays. Southern France is the inspiration for many of the dishes chef-owner Rent Peeters offers at this charming bistro. Flawlessly grilled fresh fish, hearty bean dishes, herb-scented lamb, rabbit, game and seasonal choices, even the organ meats beloved by the French but hard to fine in American restaurants. $$

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN



THE WINE PRESS, 4217 Oak Lawn, 214-522-8720. Lunch and dinner six days, Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Appealing, eclectic New American menu to complement a great selection of wines by the glass in a charmer of a setting. $$

BISTRO



WHITE SWAN CAFE, 3878 Oak Lawn in Turtle Creek Village, 214-528-7028. Lunch and dinner. {Oak Lawn location closed Sunday night.) Pastas and paella share the menu with Cuban tamales, citrus-marinated steak, traditional Cuban sandwiches. $$

CUBAN



YAMAGUCHI’S BAR AND SUSHI, 7713 Inwood at Lovers, 214-350-8660. The sushi’s perfectly prepared, but thete’s a lot more to sample: wonderful, rosy salmon flash-seared and served in a ginger-spiked lime baste, marinated duck fragrant with brandy and apricot essence, and pork with an Asian pear filling. All entrees are artistically presented. $$

JAPANESE



YELLOW, 2719 McKinney Avenue at Worth-ington, 214-871-1772. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays, closed Sundays. East meets West cuisine with the sure hand of chef-owner Avner Samuels (who’s better at creating dishes than restaurant names. The last, “Da Spot,” closed after only a few months.) As always, the dishes are imaginative, polished, and perfectly presented: seared ahi tuna, foie gras with mung beans, or duck with tamarind plum sauce. (Look for a bit of yellow in every dish.) For his fans’ sake, lets hope this one lasts. $$$

NEW AMERICAN



ZIZIKI’S RESTAURANT AND BAR, 4514 Travis Walk at Armstrong, 214-521-2233. Lunch and dinner until midnight, closed Sunday. Cross a Greek diner with a Soho-style bistro and a trendy wine bar, throw in some Italian blood and a Hawaiian upbringing and here’s what you get: Chef Costa Arabatzis’ eatery. Fad-free fusion that scours the Mediterranean and Aegean for inspiration, then lightens up on the oil. All your Greek favorites, plus pasta originals. Open kitchen with Italian tile hand-crafted bar. $

MEDITERRANEAN



Northeast

aransas PASS CAFE, 2912 North Henderson at Central Expressway, 214-827-8650. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday, 6-11 p.m. Fresh gulf seafood and Texas-style dishes star: honey-jalapeno glazed pork loin a winner! Or, sweet com chile relleno, Thai-style tuna taco, Maine lobster with sea scallops. Sweet indulgences: “Beeville Honey:” cinnamon-dusted tortilla with home-made ice cream; sautéed bananas with strawberries. Owners met working at Four Seasons. Great patio; weekends live music. $

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



ARC-EN-CIEL, 3555 West Walnut Street at Jupiter, Garland, 214-272-2188. Lunch and dinner. The real appeal here is the interesting Vietnamese section of the menu: spicy stir-fried steak with Oriental veggies, your choice of chicken, fish, or seafood with minced veggies, noodles, and seasonings rolled up in “rice paper” (paper-thin rice crepes). Savory noodle dishes, hot curries, earthen pot stews, and mealsize soups abound. Culinary adventurers rejoice! $

VIETNAMESE/CHINESE



CARIB-B, 2012 Greenville, 214-824-3395. Lunch and dinner. You’ll imagine soft breezes, swaying palms, and pounding surf when you sample jerk chicken, fresh fish, and goat prepared in the island manner. $

CARIBBEAN



FLIP’S WINE BAR, 1520 Greenville at Ross, 214-824-9944. Dinner to 2 a.m. every night. “Serious Italian food” as the menu claims, coupled with a nice selection of reasonably priced wines by the glass, plus 25 different draft beers and an equal number of imports. The wine list includes champagne and sparkling wine, port, sherry, and dessert wine. Mix and match pastas with sauces, or order one of the inventive pizzas on whole-wheat or focaccia crust. $$

ITALIAN



FRANKI’S L’lL EUROPE, 362 Casa Linda Plaza, 214-320-0426. This is the only place in Dallas where you can sample Cevapcici, the Slavic version of a cheeseburger, only spicier. The last time we tried it was in Yugoslavia…uh, make that Croatia. Or Serbia? $$

EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE



THE GRAPE, 2808 Greenville Avenue near Goodwin, 214-828-1981. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner only Saturdays and Sundays. Blackboard menu features well-executed New American style bistro dishes; excellent wines; a cozy, romantic spot. $$

WINE BAR/BISTRO



MATT’S RANCHO MARTINEZ, 6312 La Vista Drive at Gaston, 214-823-5517. Lunch and dinner, closed Monday. Busy, popular place puts a healthy new spin on old standards: flautas are grilled, cowboy beans are fat-free. “Lite” faji-tas, even all-veggie fajitas. But then there’s buttermilk-battered chicken-fried steak, frog’s legs, chile rellenos stuffed with beef, chicken, shrimp, or vegetables, plus Texas pecans, raisins, and Jack cheese. $

MEXICAN



NERO’S, 2104 Greenville at Prospect, 214-826-6376. Dinnerevery night. Fresh seafood with pasta or rice, and veal chops an inch and a half thick with your choice of sauces: Masala-mushroom, port wine spiked with cracked pepper, or a zesty green peppercorn butter. Most popular: Linguini fra diavola: pasta with sea scallops, shrimp, and mushrooms. But don’t miss the chicken breast stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes. $$

ITALIAN



PINOT’S WINE BAR AND CAFE, 2926 North Henderson, 214-826-1949. Dinner. Small spot; interesting wines by the glass. Limited $32.50 fixed-price menu includes a bottle of house wine married to such choices as roast lamb, herbed swordfish, chicken Santa Fe, or Pork Marchand de Vin (includes soup, salad and dessert). Call for wine dinner schedule. $$

ECLECTIC



ROYAL THAI, 5500 Greenville Avenue at Old Town Village, 214-691-3555. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner Saturdays and Sundays. Fiery cuisine (toned down to your taste) beautifully presented in pleasing setting. Try the meal-size soups, the shrimp stir-fry with Asian noodles, or the hot curries in banana leaf. $$

THAI



ROYAL TOKYO, 7525 Greenville, 214-368-3304. Lunch and dinner, Sunday buffet 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Authentic sushi bar, the largest in Texas. Tatami room features kimono-clad servers in the traditional manner (the seating has wells for your feet; no need to sit cross-legged!) Hibachi food cooked at your table. Big draws: Black Angus beef, the lively, musical karaoke bar. Extensive, well-written menu explains cuisine and customs to Westerners. $$

JAPANESE



SAN FRANCISCO ROSE, 3024 Lower Greenville at Monticello, 214-826-2020. Lunch and dinner, late night to 2 a.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., complimentary buffet Monday to Friday, 4 p.m.-7 p.m. Grandaddy of the Dallas sports bars; daily happy hour, 4 p.m.-7 p.m. Trophy room for sports fans; patio for outdoor dining in nice weather. $

SPORTS BAR



ST. MARTIN’S WINE BISTRO, 3020 Greenville, 214-826-0940. Lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch. Extensive selection of wines by the glass, moderately priced, to pair with such elegantly executed entrees as shrimp and scallops in a creamy wine sauce, baby lamb chops with Dijon-garlic bordelaise, tournedos, fresh pasta, homemade paté, excellent cheese choices. Check the blackboard specials. $$

FRENCH



TERILLI’S, 2815 Greenville at Vickery, 214-827-3993. Lunch and dinner, late night to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Business lunch spot by day; kalian bistro/supperclub by night. Live jazz nightly. Chicken primavera most popular. Try the “Ital-chos,” nacho-size chips of pizza crust with a variety of Italian toppings. Outdoor dining, too. $$

ITALIAN



Oak Cliff



TILLMAN’S CORNER, 324 West Seventh Street at Bishop Avenue, 214-942-0988. Lunch weekdays, dinner Thursday through Saturday, closed Sunday. Don’t let the laid-back look put you off; foodies are finding this place to their liking. Ricky Tillman is a talented chef who wows them with crab cakes and orange chipotle sauced pasta, grilled pork and horseradish-mashed potatoes, authentic cedar planked salmon, Southwest cilantro chicken with a black bean salsa, tangy Key lime pie, sinfully rich bourbon-sauced chocolate cake, and intensely flavored sorbets. He’s equally adept with vegetarian and no-fat choices, too. Comfortable interior with country antiques, lots of plants, scented candles. Wine requires a $2 membership. Call about wine dinners ($40-$50) generally on the third Wednesdays; Sunday night live jazz. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



Far North



BLUE MESA GRILL, 5100 Belt Line at Tollway, Addison, 214-934-0165. Lunch and dinner 365 days. Worth the trip just for the two versioas of nuevo adobe pie: chicken, chase, and roasted peppers baked in fresh com masa, and a vegetarian version with whole black beans, tomatillos, and mushrooms. $$

SOUTHWESTERN



BOLERO GRILL, 5290 Belt Line at Montfort, Addison, 214-490-8686. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Limited but well-chosen, inexpensive wine list. Most popular: Harira (lentil) soup, kebab. Signature dishes: cappelini primavera with grilled lamb sausage, pan-seared tilapia, grilled veggies over orzo pasta with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



CAFE ATHENEE, 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, 214-239-8060. Lunch and dinner six days; closed Sunday and holidays. Romantic English library decor: dark paneling, white tablecloths, warm chandeliers, fresh flowers, potted palms, soft music. Senior execs and affluents come for business lunches, quiet dinners. Most popular: gypsy appetizer platter, homemade Romanian sausage. Signature: sole a la scorpio, chicken martini (low-fat), grandmother’s stuffed cabbage, white caviar salad, $$

EASTERN EUROPEAN/CONTINENTAL



CAFE GECKO, 5290 Belt Line Road at Montfort, Addison, 214-458-9884. Spicy dishes from the sunny Caribbean and Mexico are the draw at this popular spot with a regular following, especially among restaurant workers. Jerk chicken, conch fritters, seafood nachos, stuffed hand-rolled jalapenos, grouper sandwich, pasta salads, blackened snapper, grouper Vera Cruz and genuine Key lime pie will get you into that laid back island mood. Antique oak and onyx bar presided over by a stuffed moosehead festooned with year-round Christmas tree lights help set the tone here; popular at lunch and late night to 2 a.m. $$

MEXICAN/CARIBBEAN



CHAMBERLAIN’S PRIME CHOP HOUSE, 5330 Belt Line, Town Hall Square at Montfort, Addison, 214-934-2467. Dinner, closed Sunday. Free valet. Fashioned after a ’50s style European brasserie: polished brass, dark woods and deep burgundy tones. Most popular: tenderloin stuffed with portobello, lamb and horseradish-mashed potatoes, peppered venison steak, slow-smoked prime rib. Dallas-born namesake chef (Mansion, Crescent Club, and Agnew vet) is co-owner. $$

STEAK



COPELAND’S OF NEW ORLEANS, 5353 Belt Line Road at Prestonwood/Montfort, 214-661-1883. Lunch and dinner. Busy, bustling Dallas site of the popular Cajun chain in attractive brass-greenery-Tiffany-lamplit setting. Pleasing adaptations of Cajun classics: gumbo, shrimp étouffée, blackened redfish, andouille sausage with red beans and rice, plus pasta, ribs, burgers, Po’ boys, croissant sandwiches, pecan cookie-crusted cheesecake, sweet potato bread pudding. Specialty drinks and coffees, creative kid’s menu, “lite” and veggie offerings. Sunday brunch bar, booths, seasonal outdoor dining, child seats, take-out, local delivery. $$

CAJUN



DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE, 5251 Spring Valley at the Tollway, 214-490-9000. Dinner, closed Sunday. The carnivore’s castle. White tablecloths, lots of tourists, frequent flyers, and visiting firemen in search of the quintessential Texas steak experience. Here it is. The menu features four kinds of steak in five sizes. Mega-lobsters, too. $$$

STEAK



FERRARI’S VILLA, 14831 Midway Road, near Belt Line, Addison 214-980-9898. Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday through Saturday; closed Sundays. Old country pizzas and fabulous focac-cia breads, along with succulent seafood, steaks and chops, chicken and veal, authentic pasta dishes. $$

ITALIAN



FUJI-YA, 13050 Coit Road at LBJ, 214-690-8396. Lunch and dinner, closed Mondays, dinner only Sundays. Tiny, traditional sushi bar with former sumo wrestler as owner. Perfectly prepared, totally authentic Japanese dishes combined with low prices make this a favorite with Japanese nationals living here. $

JAPANESE



CASPAR’S, 150 South Denton Tap Road at Sandy Lake, Coppell, 214-393-5152. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. Chef Steven Pilat picks up the gauntlet here with signature dishes: pork schnitzel with lemon and capers, red snapper topped with shrimp and scallops in a lemony dill sauce, San Francisco-style crab cakes, lobster and crayfish napoleans, smoked salmon served with com pancake, lamb chops grilled with chive-infused olive oil. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



KOBE STEAKS, 5000 Belt Line off Dallas Parkway, Addison, 214-934-8150. Dinner 365 days. Steak is the star here, U.S. prime. Choose the filet mignon and have it chop-chop-chopped, sizzled, and stirred before your eyes with fresh veggies. Other choices: Teriyaki beef or chicken, shrimp, scallops, even a lobster/filet mignon combo (think of it as a stir-fry surf ’n’ turf).Half-price for half-size portions for the kids. They’ll find it great fun. $$

JAPANESE



MAY DRAGON, 4848 Belt: Line at Inwood, Addison, 214-392-9998. Lunch and dinner 365 days. One of the most scrutable Chinese menus ever; descriptions so complete you can use it as a cookbook. Almost as many dishes, too! Most popular: sesame chicken, crispy whole red snapper in Hunan sauce, Peking duck, Hong Kong-style steak. Roll your own: lettuce with shrimp, chicken, pork or vegetarian, Giant fortune cookie filled with chocolate mousse. Piano music Friday and Saturday nights. $$

CHINESE



MEDITERRANEO, 18111 Preston at Frankford, 214-447-0066. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Smoke-free dinning rooms, smoking in bar only. Classy continental decor (lighting won a design award). This is the more casual sister restaurant to The Riviera; exec chef David Holben creates menus for both. CIA grad scholarship program took him to France to work in famed kitchens: Roger Verge, Paul Bocuse in Lyon, the George V Hotel in Paris. Most popular capellini crab pancake, double cut lamb chop, polenta-crusted salmon. $$

MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO



Ml PIACI, 14854 Montfort, Addison, 214-934-8424. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, Saturday and Sunday dinner only. Homemade Bologna-style pasta (with eggs), and hand-stirred risotto dishes with imported short grain rice are featured. Try the salmon and sea scallop risotto, Or the cappellacci: giant ravioli filled with fresh crabmeat, finished with lemon cream and asparagus, Brodo frutti di mare is the classic fishermen’s stew, enough for two. Simple pleasures: new potatoes roasted with rosemary and olive oil. $$

ITALIAN



MR. SUSHI, 4860 Belt Line, Addison, 214-385-0168. Lunch and dinner. Sushi in the best tradi-tion exquisitely prepared ;and adroitly presented. For a real feast, order the 12-course banquet (and never gain an ounce). For fun, have shabu-shabu: water-thin beef, yam noodles, tofu cooked at your table in a fragrant broth. Appetizer list great for adventurers: Asari in sake, boiled sea snail. Except for tempura, most items are low in fat. $$$

JAPANESE



TEXAS LAND & CATTLE COMPANY, 17390 Preston Road, 214-248-2424. Lunch and dinner Mondays through Saturdays, dinner only Sundays. Western style steakhouse serving wran-gler-size portions with Southwest savor: camp-fire chili, barbecued seafood, chicken, quail, lots of hearty side dishes, and irresistible desserts. $$

STEAKS



UNCLE TAI’S HUNAN YUAN, 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria, 214-934-9998. Lunch and dinner. Closed holidays. Upscale stylish setting with menu to match. Located on the third floor of the Galleria. Menu selections include venison and pheasant., UncleTai’s chicken with black bean sauce and jalapenos, and jumbo shrimp in red wine sauce. Spicy prawns in chili sauce is our favorite. Take out available. $$

CHINESE

LOCATION GUIDE



MULTIPLE LOCATIONS: Look in this section for restaurants with two or more locations.

DOWNTOWN: Bounded roughly by I-30, I-35, Woodall Rogers, and Central Expressway, also includes Deep Ellum.

NORTHWEST: The area west of Central Expressway, north of downtown, and south of LBJ. Includes the Oak Lawn, Lemmon Avenue, and McKinney Avenue areas as well as the Park Cities.

NORTHEAST: The area east of Central Expressway and north of I-30. Includes East Dallas, Lakewood, Garland, and Mesquite.

OAK CLIFF-SOUTH: The area south of 1-30. Includes all southern suburbs.

FAR NORTH: The area north of LBJ. Includes Addison, Carrollton, Richardson, Piano, McKinney, and Sherman.

MIDCITIES-FORT WORTH: Arlington, Bed-ford-Euless, Fort Worth, Grand Prairie, Grapevine, and Irving.