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Restaurant Listings

By D Magazine |

You’re hungry and only Chinese food will do. Or maybe! it’s Thai or some Texas barbecue. Whatever you crave, Dallas probably has the place for you. Here’s information from the restaurants to help you choose.

KEY TO SYMBOLS:

$Inexpensive, dinner entrees under $10 $$Moderate, most entrees $10 to $25 $$$Expensive, (most entrees $25 or more (Based on a typical dinner for one, not including drinks, tax and tip.)

Multiple Locations

8.0 RESTAURANT AND BAR, 2800 Routh, 214-979-0880. 1ll East Third at Commerce, Sundance Square, 817-336-0880, Port Worth. Ocho quesadillas with spinach and mushrooms. “Mas Chicken Salad, ’ with balsamic sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, veggie enchiladas, chipotle chili made with Shiner Bock beer, sweet jerk chicken. Too much? Try the “Green Plate” (vegetarian). Quirky cuisine; it’s a mix of Cajun/Creole, Southwest, Tex-Mex, Italian, and much more. $

ECLECTIC

CAFE BRAZIL, 6420 North Central, 214-691-7791. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner; open24hours. 2221 Abrams, [214-826-9522. Weekends until midnight. Open until 10 p.m. weekdays. 2815 Elm, 214-747-2730. Sunday through Tuesday, until 1 a.m.; Fridays and Saturdays open 24 hours; Wednesday and Thursday until 3 a.m. Big Brazilian-style breakfasts and fragrant coffees are the attraction here, and you can enjoy them any time. Try the French toast with fresh fruit, homemade breads, barekfast empanadas. Or build your own crepes or omelet! The menu also offers hearty-soups, salads and sandwiches, plus a worldwide collection of coffrees with featured specials that change daily. No alcoholic beverages. $

COFFEEHOUSE

CRESCENT CITY CAFE, 2615 Commerce at Good-Latimer, 214-745-1900. Monday-Thurs-day lunch only, Friday and Saturday dinner and lunch, closed Sunday. 2822 McKinney, 214-969-1885. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Most popular: muffaletta and po’ boy sandwiches. Signature dish: Crawfish etouffee. Don’t miss the beignets. Children’s menu: mini-sandwiches, corndogs, chicken fingers. Muffaletta hot on 8-inch, fresh-baked Italian bun with salami, mozzarella, provolone and olive salad topping. Real steal: one-quarter muffaletta and gumbo, $5.50. $

CAJUN CREOLE

DEEP ELLUM CAFE, 2706 Elm, 214-741-9012. 5001 Belt Une, Addison, 214-392-0894. Lunch and dinner. Trendy spot with a trend-surfer’s menu to match: Singapore-style noodles, jerked pork chop marinated with scotch bonnet (habanero) chilies, lime, and Jamaican spices served with grilled bananas, coconut rice, Vietnamese grilled chicken salad. Mom-style stuff: pot pie, chicken and dumplings, chicken-fried steak, grilled banana bread with vanilla ice cream and ginger butter sauce. $$

ECLECTIC

ESPARZA’S RESTAURANT MEXICANO, 124 East Worth at Main, Grapevine, metro 817-481-4668. 1212 William D. Tate, Grapevine, metro 817-481-4867. Lunch and dinner every day. A neighborhood family favorite comfortably ensconced in a 100-year-old house in Grapevine’s historic district. Big menu of everybody’s Tex-Mex favorites. Most popular are the sizzling faji-tas served for one or two with chicken, steak, shrimp, or pork as the main ingredient. Try the ratones appetizers: deep-fried jalapenos stuffed with chicken or seafood. Leave room for dessert: ice cream nachos! $

MEXICAN

GLORIA’S RESTAURANT, 4140 Lemmon at Douglas,214-521-7576.600 West Davis, 214-948-3672. Lunch and dinner seven days. Spicy Salvadoran dishes, similar to Mexican food, yet dis-tinctive, are the specialty here. Gloria’s second location opened in January. First, try the appetizers: tamales wrapped in banana leaves and “papusas” (handmade corn tortillas stuffed with cheese and/or pork). Everybody loves the Salvadoran-style jumbo shrimp sauteed with lots of garlic. There’s catfish grilled with sweet onions, charbroiled steak served with black beans and rice, meal-size soups and flavorful beer from El Salvador. There’s A Mexican menu, too. Either way, finish with silky chocolate flan. $

SALVADORAN/MEXICAN

GOOD EATS CAFE, 6950 Greenville, 214-691-3287. 3888 Oak Lawn, 214-522-3287. 702 Ross, 214-744-3287. 1101 North Central, Piano (nonsmoking), 214-516-3287. 3516 West Airport Freeway, Irving, 313-0803. 1400 Airport Freeway, Bedford, metro 817-540-3287. 1235 W. D. Tate, Grapevine,metro817-329-3287.5812I-35North, Denton, 817-387-3500. 14905 Midway, Addison, 214-392-3287. Lunch and dinner to 10:30 p.m., until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Chicken fried steak, mesquite grilled chicken and fish, pasta salads, fresh veggie plates at reasonable prices make this D Readers’ Choice winner: “best lunch for the money.”Casual atmosphere: brick walls, rustic collectibles, lots of greenery and swift pleasant service. Popular with both locals and visitors, office workers, and families too. No reservations. $

HOME COOKING, CONTEMPORARY

LA MADELEINE FRENCH BAKERY & CAFE, 11930 Preston Road at Forest, 214-233-6446. Similar location at 3906 Lemmon Avenue at Reagan; other smaller locations with limited menus throughout Dallas. Breakfast, lunch and dinner every day. A French bakery that gr-r-rrrew; this one has a quaint dining room with a country French menu: woodfire -roasted chicken, imaginative pastas, plus all the quiches, soups, salads and sandwiches that make the take-out conn ter so popular. Limited wine list, imported beers. $

FRENCH BAKERY

MASSIMO DA MILANO, 2931 Irving, #106, 214-630-4683. Preston Center, 6109 Berkshire, 214-987-2782.6333 East Mockmghird, Suite 153,214-826-9456. 710 NorthPark, 214-739-3933. 5519 West Lovers, 214-351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto, 214-871-0400. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 208, Addison, 214-661-5255.4000 North MacArthur, Suite 100,Irving, 214-579-3463. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch, and takeout. Fresh flowers belie the fact that this is a bakery and takeout shop cum cafeteria. The food is good and a great value, too. Most populan pasta salads, cannoli, eggplant lasagna, and thick low-fat pizzas (try the signature tomaro-free albino pizza). Fall feature: osso buco. Bakery features fresh specialty breads, pumpkin pies, cheesecakes, holiday cookies; 65 percent of customers are women, many for takeout. Gourmet coffees, kids’ menu. $

ITALIAN BAKERY/CAFE

MOMO’S PASTA/OSTERIA DA MOMO, 2704 Elm, 214-748-4222. 3312 Knox, 214-521-3009. 5290 Belt Line, Suite 132, Addison, 214-386-7373. Lunch and dinner. Once strictly pasta, Momo’s offers a marvelously complete descriptive menu of classic Italian dishes. All three share the same menu, expert preparation, and bargain prices. Wine available, but you can bring your own. Unusual pastas; for example, tagliatelle al cocoa. It’s tossed with peas, Gruyere, and prosciutto. $$

ITALIAN

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO, 501 Elm, 214-741-2277. 14831 Midway between Spring Valley and Belt Line, Addison, 214-233-5858. Dinner only, seven nights. The original downtown location has a speakeasy feel (enter through the lower level door) while the newer Addison location has a more uptown atmosphere. Both have a “New American” style menu that goes beyond charred steer. Thick lamb chops, Sicilian-style veal, marinated tenderloin with a blackened crust, inventive appetizers such as sea scallops with apricot chutney. There’s cheesecake, of course. And Morton’s brings back such sinful solace as the souffle…even 40 variations on the martini. Award-winning wine list; for VIP members, personally engraved brass-plaqued wine lockers stocked with your favorites at .0% off. $$$

STEAL

PASTA PLUS, 7194 Preston, Suite 150, a: Campbell, 214-7; 3-7181.225 Preston Royal East, 214-373-3999. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays- Italian bistro with a gourmet take-out shop specializing in fresh pastas, all preparec exclusively with olive oil, fresh ingredients, and no preservatives, tomato paste, roux, or thickening agents. Breads, desserts, and low-fat sausages made on premises. There’s also an alternative “light” menu that trims far and calories by substituting skim milk cheeses and less oil. Does this sound like denial: eggplant Florentine with grilled polenta? It’s pasta plus more, way more. $

ITALIAN

PATRIZIO, 25 Highland Park Village at Preston, 214-522-7878. 1900 Preston Park at Preston and Park, 214-964-2200. Lunch and dinner, closed holidays. Origins art, tile floors, Oriental rugs, marble tables, fresh flowers on the mantel over the fireplace. Charming outdoor patio at Highland Park location. Don’t fill up on the pep-peroni bread, you need room for baked ziti or tiramisu. Updated pasta and pizza plays to a crowd at these yuppie feeding grounds. $

ITALIAN

sambuca, 2618 Elm, 214-744-0820. 15207 Addison, 214-385-8455. Monday to Friday lunch and dinner, late night Sunday to Wednesday, open to 12 a.m., Thursday until 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m., closed holidays. Sexy new digs in Addison with a similar menu to Deep Ellum original. Favorites include spinach and sun-dried tomato linguini with smoked chicken, grilled tiger shrimp spiked with harissa sauce, salmon over spinach and gorgonzula, gnocchi with wild mushrooms, lamb couscous with Calamata olives. Thirty-something trendsurfers will feel right at home. Live jazz nightly after 8:15. Reservations except Friday and . Saturday nights. Call for wine dinner schedule. $S

MEDITERRANEAN

SAM’S CAFE, 100 Crescent Court at McKinney and Maple, 214-855-2233. 8411 Preston at Berkshire in Preston Center West, 739-2288. Lunch daily and Saturday, dinner every night, Sunday brunch. Southwest-style grill with an imaginative menu, including chili-rubbed fresh tuna, crayfish cake; with pica de gallo and black beans, and a South vest style calzone stuffed with chicken, roast pepper, and goat cheese. The cinnamon bunuelo is fi led with Mexican vanilla bean ice cream and warn caramel. $$

SOUTHWEST

SNUFFER’S, 3526 Greenville at McCommas, 214-826-6850. 14910 Midway, Addison, 214-991-8811.11 a.m. to 2 a.m. seven days. D readers voted these the best burgers in Dallas: half a pound, cooked medium rare, then topped with mustard, pickle, red onion, lettuce, and tomato; ask for a side of their signature “Cheddar fries.” Sandwiches, salads, chicken, and other fast fuel on the menu too. $

HAMBURGERS PLUS

SFUZZI, 2504 McKinneyat Fairmount, 214-871-2606. 15101 Addison at Belt Line, Addison, 214-960-2606.2408 Preston at Park. Suite 704, Piano, 214-964-0700. Lunch and dinner every day, brunch on Sunday. Pizzas from wood-burning oven, lush raviolis plump with smoked chicken, tagliatelle in Gorgonzola cream. Fall Pasta Festival dishes, seasonal features. Frozen Sfuzzi (a frosted bellini). Inexpensive wine list. The available and semi-available begin gathering at the bar immediately after work in search of Mr. Right or Ms. Right Now. $$

ITALIAN

SONNY BRYAN’S, 302 North Market, 214-744-1610. 2202 Inwood, 214-357-7120. 325 North Saint Paul, 214-979-0102. 4701 Frankford. 214-447-0102. Macy’s third level, Galleria, 214-851-5131.4030 N. MacArthur in Las Colinas, Irving, 214-650-9564- Lunch and dinner. The best-known name in Dallas barbecue. Huge portions of smokehouse meats: beef brisket, pork ribs, sausage, ham, pulled pork, with traditional “sides.” For mini appetites, try a sandwich and two vegetables. $

BARBECUE

Downto

311 LOMBARDTS, 311 North Market at Ross,214-747-0322. Lunch weekdays, dinner every night. Homesick Easterners will snuggle into this New York-style Italian eatery. Start with homemade focaccia bread from the wood-fired oven. Then share a Tuscan seafood stew brimming with lobster, calamari, mussels, and scallops over linguini so there’s room for tiramisu, Cioccolato con Cioccolato (chocolate with chocolate cake), or New York-style cheesecake. Chef David Sonzogni, a member of the U.S. Culinary Olympic Team, hails from New Jersey; now that’s Italian. $$

ITALIAN

DAKOTA’S. 600 North Akard at Ross, 214-740-4001- Lunch and dinner. Most popular: sword-fish, lamb, five-pepper chicken. Signature dish: lamh chops with minted angel hair pasta. Menu lists calories and fat on the Dakota signature dish: citrus-marinated chicken with herbed wild rice and asparagus. Go for the vegetable lasagna. Use the saved calories for vanilla bean cheesecake with gingerbread crust and minted pistachio sauce, apple pecan chimichanga, or Kahlua low-fat, mile-high pie made with Haagen Dazs frozen yogurt. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

DICK’S LAST RESORT, corner of Ross and Record in the West End, 214-747-0001. Open lla.m.-2 a.m. Put on a bib and order up this restaurant’s infamous buckets of messy ribs, chicken catfish, shrimp, or crab legs. A live gospel bunch on Sunday typifies this place’s penchant for off-beat fun and entertainment. The brunch features salads, breakfast and dinner items, and yummy desserts.

AMERICAN

THE FRENCH ROOM, (Adolphus Hotel) 1321 Commerce at Field, 214-742-8200, ext. 191. Dinner; closed Sunday. Flawless food and service have always been the hallmarks here. “Neo-classic” is lighter French, not so austere as the old “Nouvelle”: boneless quail filled with wild mushrooms, roasted tuna au poivre. Conde Nast Traveler readers’ poll: top 50 in USA. Afternoon tea: cucumber sandwiches and petits fours on Villeroy and Boch china. $$$

FRENCH NEOCLASSIC

GREEN ROOM, 2715 Elm at Crowdus, 214-748-7666. Lunch weekdays; dinner seven days, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.. A green neon sign outside .says “room”-a cryptic way of saying “Green Room.” Despite the funky digs, there’s grown-up cooking going on here under the practiced hand of Christopher Pyun, a Culinary Institute of America grad who comes to Dallas after stints at Le Cirque and Daniel in New York City. His plan is to create French style food with less pricey ingredients. Look for spicy Creole input: ravioli with crayfish and andouille sausasie. swordfish with fennel in shellfish saffron sauce, creme brulee. Wines by the glass and an interesting list of beers make this a popular place. $$

FRENCH NOUVELLE/CREOLE

MONICA’S ACA Y ALLA, 2914 Main at Oakland, 214-748-7140. Lunch Monday to Friday, dinner Tuesday to Thursday 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Sunday 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. Live music on Sundays. Business crowd attracted to Deep Ellum at lunchtime. Dinner draws singles, young professionals; weekends, couples, large groups enjoying a night out. Latin and jar: bands, dancing; This is an eclectic spot where appropriate attire includes anything from tuxedos to Bermuda shorts. Southwest and Tex-Mex dishes, plus pasta. Most popular: Greene Pasta ( named for owner Monica Greene), and Mexican Lasagna. The restaurant’s signature dishes include Pumpkin Ravioli and healthy but delicious fat-free black beans- $$

MEXICAN

NEWPORT’S, 703 McKinney Avenue, suite 101 in The Brewery, 214-954-0220. Lunch weekdays, dinner seven days. Seafood is the feature here, prepared simply or lavished with spicy sauces and seasonings. Best hers: chipotle tuna or blackened snapper with crahmeat, topped with lobster sauce. Always hustling and busy, but expect good service. Tablecloths, fresh flowers and soft jazz combine for a relaxing ambience. Call for wine dinner schedule. $$

SEAFOOD

OUTBACK PUB, 1701 North Market, 214-761-9355. Lunch and dinnerseven days, open to 2 a.m. Steaks with quaint Aussie-inspired names (Alice Springs, Fair Dinkum Deal). Chicken-fried steak turns up on this menu as “Chock steak.” Plus oversize meat pies (called “pasty” here). Dundee stew served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread the size of a bowling ball; fish ’n’ chips, but no shrimp on the barby. For dessert: pavolova, the Australian marshmallow meringue cake (you can feel the cavities forming already). Great beer list. $

AUSTRALIAN

palm restaurant, 701 Ross at Market, 214-698-0470. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Sunday 5:30 p.m. to 9: 15 p.m. Enormous lobsters and hubcap-size steaks are the feature here in this quirky clone of the New York City institution. Here they still have sawdust floors and walls tiled with celebrity car-icatures. Megabites of protein on every plate; so if your appetite is normal, consider sharing {or take home a doggy bag). Even the spinach is high caloric, hut wonderful. Bustling bar, lots of booths. $$

STEAK

PLANET HOLLYWOOD, 603 Munger in the West End, 214-749-7827. Lunch and dinner 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Newest of the food-as-entertainment glitz-oramas, a virtual museum of movie memorabilia: Bonnie and Clyde’s bullet-ridden getaway car, Dolly Partons best whorehouse outfit, Batman’s jumpsuit, life-sue nearly nude replica of part-owner Sylvester Stallone. Film clips are great. If you care, get in line. No reservations. Pizza, pasta, burgers, bar. $

AMERICAN

THE PYRAMID ROOM, (Fairmont Hotel) 1717 North Akard at Ross, 214-720-5249. Lunch five days a week and dinner daily, brunch Sunday. Conde Nast Traveler readers ranked the Pyramid among the top five restaurants in Dallas (1/94). Extensive, pricey wine selection; the restaurant won the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. Classic French dishes predominate in the regular menu, but the daily specials arc more eclectic: tilapia creole, monkfish with sunflower seeds, roast duck with cantaloupe. Most popular choices: lobster bisque, chunky crab cakes, rack of lamb. Signature dishes: Dover sole and beef ibeye. $$$

CONTINENTAL

Northwe

ADELMO’S, 4537 Cole at Knox, 214-559-0325. Lunch and dinner; dinner only Saturdays; closed Sunday and holidays. You’ve never had veal until you’ve ordered Adelmo’s 20-ounce USDA prime veal chop with green peppercorns, priciest pick on an otherwise moderate menu. (You pay for the side of beef it could have been.) Rack of lamb, lobster ravioli, crab takes spiced with hot harissa and pesto, lamb sausage on couscous, gnocchi with gor-gonzola Cream sauce, creme brulee for dessert. Cuisine is an artful blend of French, Italian, and Middle Eastern. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

ANZU, 4620 McKinney at Knox, 214-526-7398. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only on Saturday and Sunday. An East meets West menu featuring lemongrass-grilled shrimp with Bloody Mary granita; rare seared tuna strip steak with wasabi mashed potatoes, jumbo scallops; salmon in a locus leaf with tomatillo-ginger sauce. Giant pot stickers with spinach-rieotta in Italian plum tomato sauce. Wonderful and trendy, $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

ARCODORO BAR, 2520 Cedar Springs at Fairmount and Routh, 214-871-1924, Lunch and dinner to midnight (2 a.m. Friday and Saturday). Pomodoro’s little sister shares chefs Victor Otitis and Salvatore Gisellu, who serve up thick pizzas, roast chicken from their wood oven, plus lots of vegetarian choices, and tiramisu for dessert. Latin music and Italian frescoes bring loyal locals and European expats who eat late. Full bar. $

ITALIAN, NORTHERN

beau NASH, (Hotel Crescent Court) 400 Crescent Court, Maple and McKinney. 214-871-3242. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner 365 days, Sunday brunch. Classy brasserie, up-to-the-minure menu. Power breakfasts, exec lunches, late night jazz, and weekend brunches. $$

INTERNATIONAL

BOB’S STEAK AND CHOP HOUSE, 4300 Lernmon at Wycliff, 214-528-9446. Dinner, closed Sunday. Dark wood and leather booths, white tablecloths, Frank Sinatra and Patsy Cline in the background. Most popular: filet mignon. Signature dish: cote d’boeuf. Bob’s brings business people on weekdays and special occasions. “Cigar friendly.” $$

STEAK

BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB, 2508 Maple across from Hotel Crescent Court, 214-871-1333. Lunch and dinner, seven days. Veddy British spotting decor, Try tandoor barbecue, seafood bhuna, or the vindaioo if you’re looking for some hot and spicy food. $

INDIAN

BUGATTI RESTORANTE, (On Bachman Creek) 3801 West Northwest Highway at Marsh, 214-350-2470. Lunch and dinner weekdays until 10 p.m.; dinner only Saturday and Sunday until 11 p.m.; closed holidays. Contemporary Italian cuisine in a sleek and stylish setting; pretend you’re in Bologna. Perfectly grilled, thick veal chops, lemon-drizzled fresh fish, imaginative pastas tossed with seafood, cooked on demand and served with cool proficiency. Just the ticket tor a business lunch. Private rooms available. $$

ITALIAN

CAFE MADRID, 4501 Travis at Armstrong, 214-528-1731. Dinner six nights, closed Sunday. Spanish taverna serving home-style meals. Mamma’s in the kitchen dishing up real Spanish omelets (flat potato frittata), marinated beef on skewers, octopus vinaigrette, clams in wine sauce. Check the blackboard; no menu. With a stand-up tapas bar and al fresco dining, you’ll swear you’re in Spain. Ole! $

SPANISH

CAFE MARGAUX, 4242 Lomo Alto at Lemmon, 214-520-1985. Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; Sunday brunch. Veteran restaurateur Kay Agnew has settled into the voluptuous setting formerly occupied by the Belvedere, wisely keeping some of its classics while putting a stylish spin on her own Commander’s Palace-type refinement of Cajun-Creole. All the traditional dishes plus salmon with dill, beer-haltered snapper in lemon-caper butter, Veal Forestiere with brandied wild mushrooms. $$

NEW ORLEANS TRADITIONAL

CAFE MEDITERRANEE, 5950A Royal at Preston, 214-692-7716. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner Saturday, brunch weekends. Mediterranean and Moroccan flavors beckon in this appealing restaurant with Italian. Creek and North African influences. Begin with King David Salad-not simply a salad, but an assortment of Middle Eastern appetizers: hummus, tahini, felafel, dol-mades. Choose the layered Mediterranean Pasta Ricotta Pie as an encore, grilled ribeye with por-tobello mushrooms, vermicelli, and grilled vegetables, pistachio-crusted red snapper Moroccan style with raisin-dotted asparagus, or grilled duck breast with polenta and gorgonzola. Side dishes include rice pilaf and eggplant, veggie couscous, risotto with asparagus. Desserts: mascarpone cheese cake, apricot baklava, lemon pistachio ran topped with raspberry coulis. Non-smoking. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

CAFE pacific, 24 Highland Park Village at Preston and Mockingbird, 214-526-1170. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Loyal locals come for the fresh seafood, notably hot smoked salmon with sesame spinach and Pommery mustard sauce, succulent shrimp crunched, with orange pepper, perfectly grilled catch of the day with a selection of sauces. Indulgent desserts. Well-selected, fairly priced wine list. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

CAFE PANDA, 7979 Inwood at Lovers, 214-902-9500. Lunch and dinner. Spicy Szechwan dishes and other favorite s including Peking duck, quail, hearty Hunan beef, tangy seafood chowder, sweet and sour tangerine beef. Tableside coffee and tea ceremonies, fried ce cream, classical music, pink tablecloths, and excellent service, Gourmet take-out and fax orders for nearby delivery. $

CHINESE

CAFE SOCIETY, 4514 Travis #133 at Armstrong, 214-528-6543. Tuesday through Thursday noon to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 10 a.m. to midnight, Sunday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., closed Monday. Coffeehouse with blackboard menu of contemporary grill dishes, pastas, salads, imaginative vegetable dishes, spectacular desserts in inspiring surroundings. $

COFFEEHOUSE

CALLUAUD’S, 5405 West Lovers at Inwood, 214-352-1997. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Smoking permitted only in bar area. Innovative “Gourmet Leger” menu offers terrine of pheasant and vegetables!, fresh ravioli with wild mushrooms, eggplant caviar style wrapped in smoked salmon, veal tenderloin coated with fresh herbs and roasted with feta and sun-dried tomatoes, boneless quail On baked apples and pilaf. Or try these favorites from the regular menu: lobster souffle, rabbit, sweetbreads, escargot, classic onion soup. Wonderfully presented rack of lamb, Dover sole. Indulge on Lover’s as ii near the Eiffel Tower. C’est magnifique. $$$

FRENCH

CARRELLl’S RISTORANTE, 12219 Coit between LBJ and Forest, 214-386-7931. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday and holidays. Decor: Ristorante baroque. Roman columns, fountains, chandeliers, gold leaf, enough to stage a Godfather movie wedding. Yes. they do wedding parties with practiced precision from antipasto freddi to zuppa inglesa-Veal from piccatta to parmigiana; 13 pasta permutations predictably sauced, layered or filled; a cioppino that emptied out the Mediterranean. Low-cost wines. $$

ITALIAN

CELEBRATION, 4503 West Lovers between Inwood and Lemmon. 214-351 -5681. Lunch and dinner. Real home cookin’ served family-style in a bigol’ house (actually three old houses, merged). Hearty down-home fare: chicken-fried steak, fried catfish, pot roast, country vegetable plate. Specialties: “Chicken St. Caroline” (grilled chicken breast, mushrooms, and mozzarella), hot fruit cobbler. New York-style cheesecake. $

HOME COOKING

chez gerard, 4444 McKinney at Armstrong, 214-522-6865. Lunch and dinner, dinner only Saturday; closed Sunday and holidays. Cozy, softly lit, romantic Paris bistro atmosphere. Fresh flowers, soft music, rose-patterned tablecloths, candles, patio seating in nice weather. Most popular: “Tournedos Felix Faure” (black peppercorn mushrooms and cream sauce ). Also on the menu: rabbit, veal, liver, sweetbreads. Moderately priced French and California wines. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY

city cafe, 5757 West Lovers, 214-351-2233. Open seven days. Bustling, unpretentious bistro; Chef Katie Schma offers a polished take on new American cuisine with French and Mediterranean touches. Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award for its wide selection of reasonably priced wines. Winter menu features such choices as wild trame, lamb shanks, pork roulade, lots of root vegetables, and tempting desserts. Take out and catering. $$

AMERICAN

DREAM CAFE, 2800 Routh at the Quadrangle, 214-954-0486. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day. A harmonic convergence of environmental friendliness and nutritional inventiveness fuses southwest and southeast Asia with a heavy dose of California dreamin’. Cool! Lots of politically correct vegetarian dishes, of course, but fish and chicken too Breakfast choices range from the gra-nola-strewn to the butter-soaked traditional. Wholcgrain but still decadent desserts, great coffee selection and blender-whizzed fruit smoothies for snacks. $$

HEALTH FOOD

EUREKA!, 4011 Villanova, 214-369-7767. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Sunday 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Right in tune with the times, this cafe has a high flavor, low-fat Pan-Cultural menu that’s garnering rave reviews. Try veggie “Eureka!bobs”orthe “Eureka! Wrappers”: Armenian bread rollups. Prices are as low as the calories. There’s no wine; you can B.Y.O.B. And eat your veggies too. $

NEW AMERICAN

EWALD’S, (Stoneleigh Hotel) 2927 Maple at Wolf, 214-871-2523. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner 365 days. Celebrating 25 years, Swiss-schooled Dusseldorf native Ewald Scholz is our longest-running chef. Still frying parsley, he*s totally fad-proof, Come with us now back in time, where fetuccine Alfredo is listed as “lighter fare” and the menu promises “Tornedos St. Moritz,” Veal Oscar, Vichyssoise, white asparagus and fish a la “Bonne Femme,” “Chateaubriand Bouquetiere Sauce Bearnaise,” “Swiss Raclette” with cornichons and new potatoes. Where do you find food you can capitalize these days? $$

CONTINENTAL

FOG CITY DINER, 2401 McKanney at Maple, 214-220-2401. Lunch and dinner daily. Anyone who’s visited the San Fran original will recognize the stylish spoof of American comfort food, redone for Dallas with a Southwest spin: sirloin chili. BBQ scallops, grilled pasilla pepper stuffed with five cheeses and topped with avocado salsa, diner chili dogs, and crisp mahogany chicken with homemade rice-a-roni. What, no chicken fried steak? Don’t miss the chocolate chili tart with coffee ice cream. A worthy tribute to the quirky San Francisco chrome palace. $$

NEW AMERICAN

GASPAR’S, 4900 McKinney at Monticello, 214-528-5100. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday. Chef-ownerGaspar Stantic, the namesake of this and the other Caspar’s, achieves new culinary heights. The menu varies with the season: squab rests with wild mushroom pirogi; the yellowfin tuna is pan-seared with rare morel and crepes and served in a merlot sauce; tenderloin is sauteed with earthy porcini, garnished with spinach gnocchi. Thick veal chops come with Tuscan bean salad anointed with 50-year-old balsamic vinegar, the real thing. The wine list boasts suitable companions. Strudel desserts, deftly made, are a specialty. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

GOING GOURMET, 4345 West Northwest Highway at Midway, 214-351-6773. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. This is the little gourmet takeout shop that grew. But not much; it’s still tiny. Now it’s a popular bistro with an eclectic Mediterranean and California influence. Piz:as and pastas are popular. Best loved: angel hair pasta with crawfish and artichokes in a lemon pepper-based sauce. Or penne tossed with gorgonzola, spinach, and walnuts, paella with lobster. B.Y.O.B. Pretty setting with candles and fresh flowers. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

HARD ROCK CAFE, 2601 McKinney at Routh, | 214-855-0007. Lunch and dinner, 365 days. Original of the food-as-theme-park establishments, still going strong. Rock ’n’ roll memorabilia from the ’50s to the ’90s, people-watching, and. oh yes, they Jo serve food: “Tennessee pulled pork sandwich,” burgers, grilled fajitas; vegetarian garden burger. $

AMERICAN

CAFE HIGHLAND PARK, 69 Highland Park Village, Mockingbird and Preston, 214-521 -7300. Lunch and dinner seven days. French, Italian and Mediterranean spices flavor the strong Middle-Eastern influences on the menu here: lamb over tahouli, salmon with a cilantro vinaigrette, tricolor linguine with lamb sausage. Favorites: Harirasoup (lentil and garbanzo beans), vegetable terrine with goat cheese, Escargot Forestiere, salmon carpaccio. Try the meal-size French green bean salad with smoked chicken. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

HENRY CHEN’S, 3701 West Northwest Highway at Marsh, 214-956-9560. Lunch and dinner. Closed holidays. Choose orange beef, gingered pork, giant shrimp steamed with minced garlic, or moo shu pork. Or try one of the perfectly prepared vegetable dishes, $$

CHINESE

HOFSTETTER’S, 3840 West Northwest Highway, #400, between Marsh and Midway, 214-358-7660. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Classic Beef Wellington, Wiener schnitzel, jager (veal) schnitzel, veal Zurich, and bratwurst are the stand-bys. Fall brings game: pheasant, wild boar, venison, and rabbit. For vegetarians there’s a richly indulgent vegetable platter with spaetzle (then follow it with Viennese pastries). Forest green tablecloths, French windows, and lots of plants make this a luncbtime favorite with senior male execs during the week. Other times, a mix of families and couples. (Kindermenu for children.) $$

GERMAN

HOTEL ST. GERMAIN, 2516 Maple at McKinney, 214-871-2516. Dinner Friday and Saturday with reservations and other nights for private parties. In nice weather there’s a walled New Orleans-style courtyard. It’s the perfect place to indulge on crab custard and creamy bisques, fresh seafood. They claim to serve the best potatoes in Dallas. Regular clientele, mostly local prosperous business people who appreciare the polished old world service. Special dinner for $65 arranged specially in advance. $$$

FRENCH NOUVELLE

INDIA PLACE, 12817 Preston, #105. 214-392-0190. Lunch and dinner. Tandoori lamb and chicken, curried lobster, shrimp vindaloo, crisp vegetable samosas (hied patties), chicken tikka masala-all fire and spice! Wonderful vegetable dishes: saag paneer (homemade fresh cheese chunks in a creamy spiced spinach mixture) and kasbmiri kufta (fresh vegetables and cheese in dumplings). Authentic dessens include gajar (carrot) halwa. Indian breads arrive hot and puffy or crisp and fragile. $

INDIAN

JAVIER’S RESTAURANTE MEXICANO & CAN-TINA, 4912 Cole at Monticello, 214-521-4211. Dinner, closed holidays. MexicoCity upscale menu borrows from continental cuisine: Filete Cantinflas beef tenderloin stuffed with Chihuahua cheese, topped with chile and avocado. Or Barro de Navidad jumbo shrimp with a spicy orange-tomato sauce. Cabrito fajitas are a winner. $$

MEXICAN-CONTINENTAL

jennivine, 3605 McKinney at Lemmon, 214-528-6010. Lunch and dinner; closed Sunday; open most holidays, except Christmas. If they had beds and served breakfast, this could be a B&B: Olde English ambience in restored turn-ol-the-century home nestled in a traditional garden where Jenni picks herbs. If you think Brit food is boring, sample Jenm’s roast duckling with mangos and homemade marmalade. Relishes, salsa, fruit vinegars, and chutneys simmer in the kitchen and sell well in the shop. $$

ENGLISH

juniper restaurant, 2917 Fairmount at Cedar Springs, 214-855-0700. Dinner only, closed Sunday and Monday. Introduces herb-infused rack of lamb, rosemary-scented chicken, pheasant breast with wild mushrooms and Madeira pepper sauce, grilled tuna with pistachios and sun-dried tomato butter. Includes vichyssoise. the classic potato soup. Decide early and order a souffle. Nice wine list features many French finds for few francs. Outdoor dining available. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY

KATHLEEN’S ART CAFE, 4424 Lovers at the Tollway, 214-691-2355. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Funky place with art on the wail and meatloaf in the oven. Homestyle warmth comes paired with originality. Self-taught chef-owner Kathleen Ellington loves to bake and comes up with such delights as ancho chili fudge pie (fudge with a kick), sesame-crusted catfish, meatloaf pizza, chili rellenos, smoked pork chops with apple brandy–wonderful early morning breakfasts and brunches, too. Lots of inexpensive Texas wines to try. Down the street at Kathleen’s Art Bakery, most dishes are available as Dike-out. $

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

L’ANCESTRAL, 4514 Travis at Knox, 214-528-1081. Lunch and dinner, closed Sundays. Attention traditionalists: Escape the current culinary din and glitz with a trip to the trench countryside: herb-scented lamb chops, hearty country pate, garlicky snails in cognac and cream, even sweetbreads. Everybody loves the steak au pome, pounded with cracked pepper and flamed with brandy. Desserts arc traditional: clafouti (baked country pudding), creme caramel, even “Floating Island” for heaven’s sake. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY

LANDMARK, (Melrose Hotel) 3015 Oak Lawn at Cedar Springs, 214-522-1453. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner six days; Sunday breakfast and brunch only, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. The menu mixes Asia and the Americas. Wildly creative dishes intense with flavor. Examples: lobster tacos with orange chipo-tle butter, macadamia nut-crusted scallops with pasta shells anointed with basil-saffron oil, Most popular: smoked chicken, masa soup. Texas crab cakes with com sauce, and Sunday branch. Extensive wine list moderately priced. Weekday gathering place of the “power breakfast” corps. $$

AMERICAN

LAURELS RESTAURANT, (Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 20th floor) 12720 Merit at Coit and LBJ, 214-851-2021. Dinner nightly except Sunday. Lighter, healthier fare with flair and flavor. Chef David Reardon’s imaginative menus have a Southwestern kick in such dishes as lobster-shrimp black enchiladas, Texas antelope. Game for game? Call about the price-fixed $35 game dinner. Twentieth-floor view of North Dallas. Piano lounge. $$

NEW AMERICAN

LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB, 3008 Maple at Carlisle and Wolf, 214-521-7777. Lunch and dinner, no lunch on Saturday; Sunday brunch. Edwardian English dining room with brass chandeliers, unique dome ceiling. There are potted palms, fresh flowers, silver dining carts, all geared to make you feel pampered and privileged. The bar is like an upscale cozy pub. Prime rib, thick steaks, and enormous hand-carved roast beef sandwiches are the main features. You can get takeout or evening delivery-Save room for dessert; it should be the English trifle with strawberries. Winner of the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award, Lawry’s boasts an extensive list that’s moderately priced $$

STEAK

LOMA LUNA CAFE, 8201 Preston, 214-691-1552. Lunch and dinner. Like a trip to Santa Fe without the airfare. Warm adobe decor suggests a hacienda. Smoke-sweet scent sharpens your appetite for the house specialty: meats, seafood, and chicken, gently grilled over pecan shells. Have yours Santa Fe style with posole (hominy) and beans. Desserts arc unique: Indian bread pudding or cajeta sundae (homemade vanilla ice cream sauced with sweet caramelized goal’s milk). $

SOUTHWESTERN

THE MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK, 2821 Turtle Creek, 214-559-2100. Lunch and dinner, seven days. Antique-tilled historic Italianate mansion, with spectacular carved inlay ceiling. World famous and full of surprises (the wine cellar is a silver vault). Conde Nast Traveler readers place it among the top 10 restaurants in the U.S. Its vaunted stature is due in part to executive chef Dean Fearing. At 40, he’s the acknowledged orig-inator of what has come to be known as Southwest cuisine. Consider: wild boar with cumin black beans and watermelon relish; homemade venison chorizo with cracked mustard, a Southwestern version of veal piccatta on tomatillo rice, savory Louisiana crab cakes. Very extensive and pricey wine list. $$$

SOUTHWESTERN

MATTITO’S CAFE MEXICANO, 4311 Oak Lawn, #101, at Herschel, 214-526-8181. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch on Sunday. Upscale casual fiesta decor. Lovely bar, covered patios, private catering, heart-healthy low-fat vegetarian dishes, veggie fajitas, beef tenderloin chicken fajitas, fat-free cowboy beans. Most popular: chile rellenos stuffed with Jack cheese, raisins, and Texas pecans. Kiddie menu. $

TEX-MEX

MIA’S 4322 Lemmon at Wycliff, 214-526-1020. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and major hoiidays, Mia, short for “Mama Mia” (my momma), co-owns this Dallas standard with her husband, chef Butch, and her son, manager Paul. $

TEX-MEX

MOCTEZUMA’S, 2847 North Henderson at Willis, 214-827-1114- Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, closed Monday. Tex-Mex, Mex and more, especially lor those partial to pasta. Try the red chili linguini. Or the Pasta de Cortez: saffron-scented shrimp, clams, snapper, and scallops in tequila cream sauce. Seafood is muy especial: the relleno del mar crams seafood into pohlano peppers topped with ancho-avocado cream saucc. Cha-cha enchiladas enfold black beans and avocado, then top them with feta. Jack cheese, and tomatillo sauce. Old hick walls and antique cop-pet lamps add anful atmosphere. $$

TEX-MEX

NANA GRILL, (Loew’s Anatole Hotel) 2201 Stemmons at Market Center, 214-761-7479. Lunch and dinner seven nights, Saturday dinner only. Sunday brunch. Now orchestrated by Paul Pinnell, formerly of J Pinnell. Named for the nude portrait in the bar, Nana offers food that’s every bit as appealing. Venison with wild blackberry sauce, pork chops with green posole, pecan-custed double lamb chops, veal crowned with woodland mushrooms. Sumptuous desserts: “millionaire’s pie” (baked Alaska and berries in a crust) and Key lime crème brulée. Call for wine dinner schedule. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

NATURA CAFE, 2909 McKinney at Howell, 214-855-5483. Breakfast Saturday and Sunday, lunch and dinner every day, closed holidays. High energy, environment-conscious, fun atmosphere. Go see the 10-foot tall faux asparagus forest in lieu of a palm tree. Bar with fireplace; open-style kitchen in the dining worn. Most popular: red snapper tacos, chicken penne pasta, smoked tomato sauce, ahi ground tunahurger on kaiser roll, shrimp with black beans. It’s good for you food that is fun. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

OLD WARSAW, 2610 Maple, 214-528-0032. Dinner seven nights. Continental dining the way you remember it: lush surroundings, hushed service, menus en francais, the twinkle of candles and diamonds, the scent of flowers and joy. Carts glide by rubles as salads are tossed, various viandes are flambeed, crepes are jubileed. There’s foie gras and caviar, steak tartare, and caesar salad. (The only intrusion on your reverie is the updated price list.) Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$$

CONTINENTAL

parigi, 3311 Oak Lawn at Hall, 214-521-0295. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and Monday. Upscale bistro with marble tabies, fresh flowers, and open kitchen. The kind of menu thatsounds appealing and healthy at the same time: whole wheat fusilli with herbs and fera in a red pepper sauce, chive-mushroom fettuccini with chicken, crimini musbrooms and corn in a ginger-lime cream sauce. Then there’s tri-color linguine with shrimp, yellow tomatoes, sugar snap peas, and basil pesto. Most popular: tenderloin with coarse-grained mustard and roasted “shallot-smashed potatoes.” Fun first course: make-your-own pizzettas (mini pizzas). Limited wine list.$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

PAUL’S PORTERHOUSE, 10960 Composite at I-35 and Walnut Hill, 214-357-0279. Lunch and dinner, Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 4 p.m. to10 p.m. Beyond the perfectly seared red meat you’ll find non-steak innovations and sophistication that belie the wagon wheel decor: south west style cahrito (goat), charbroiled pecos rabbit, red river game hens, Texas quail, or spicy, blackened prime rib. Extensive wine list at some of the lowest prices any-where; most rated 95 or better by the Wine Spectator. Rustic decor features original Winchester titles, Remington bronzes, and pre-Columbianart. Winner of the Texas BeefCouncil’s “Best steakhouse” prize, geared toward inventiveness as well as excellence. $$$

STEAK

PEARL OF THE ORIENT, (Hotel Crescent Court) 500 Crescent Court, Cedar Springs and Maple, 214-220-9110. Lunch and dinner weekdays. dinner only Saturdays, closed Sundays. Upscale Vietnamese, tamed and styled for American palates, artfully offered in a sleek setting. Choose boneless Saigon duck or Siam style in coconut milk and pineapple, grilled lemongrass cattish, pan-seared garlic-infused beef with veggies and rice noodles, steak shrimp or chicken satays. Lunch specials are a bargain. $$

VIETNAMESE

PEGGY SUE BBQ, 6600 Snider Plaza at Daniels/Hillcrest, 214-987-9188. Lunch and dinner, seven days. The local favorite. Lean, smoky brisket, meaty baby back ribs glazed with brown sugar, juicy melt-in-your-mouth chicken pink from the smoke, Southern squash casserole, new potato salad, veggies steamed with lemon butter, corn plain and simple. The chicken-fried steak is battered in buttermilk; pinto beans are fresh, not canned, If there’s no tomorrow, try Texas Torpedos: cream cheese-filled, breaded, deep fat-fried jalapenos, or the fried pie, or peach cobbler in cinnamon hatter. Club membership required for drinks. $

BARBECUE

POMODORO, 2520 Cedar Spring at Fairmont and Routh, 214-871-1924. Lunch and dinner week-nights, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. Northern and regional Italian; clean, white tiled interior, yellow tablecloths, paintings by Sardinian artists, modern Italian music. Fans rave about the brus-chetta, signature pastas, the risotto made with buffalo mozzarella. $$

ITALIAN

POPOLOS CAFE, 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center at Preston and Royal, 214-692-5497,1401 Preston, Piano. Lunch and dinner, seven days. Smoking only at the bar. This is the comfortable sort of place where you could happily eat every night; white tablecloths, candlelight, fresh roses on each table, quiet jazz at low level, original paintings, and the kind of food you never tire of. For a pretty perch, nestle into the heated/cooled screened sun porch built around a huge tree. Chef Mark Gonzales shows his Napa Valley roots in his able version of Italian nuova cucina with lots of low-fat, low-cho esterai entrees. Many enticing vegetarian dishes too. Try the extra hot and spicy “pizza for the brave,” or meatless lasagna with wood-fire grilled vegetables. Most popular dish: angel hair pasta with shrimp. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

QUADRANGLE GRILLE. 2800 Routh, 214-979-9022. Lunch and dinner. Sunday brunch. Good selection of wines by the glass, including Texas wines. Smoke-free at lunch. Grazer’s paradise: wonderful jalapeno cumbread, trendy pizzas on homemade herbed focaccia bread (smoked chicken, spinach pine nuts, red onion, and goat cheese). Great grilled vegetables served over rosemary fettuccine. Coffee bar with latte includes Thai-iced espresso (steamed with sugared milk and topped with foam). $

AMERICAN

THE RIVIERA, 7709 Inwood, 214-351-0094- Open seven days, dinner only. Smoke free. The Riviera continue to flag down awards with its practiced rendition of classics: updated tack of lamb with chutney, escargots with tortelloni, quail, and polenta. It’s one of the top five Dallas restaurants according to readers of Conde Nast Traveler. It’s also von the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award $$$

FRENCH/ITALIAN

RODOLFO’S ITALIAN AND SEAFOOD RESTAURANT, 5956 Royal at Preston, 214-368-5039. Lunch and dinner Hearty but heart-healthy low-fat main courses 1ist calorie counts. Many vegetarian choices, including spinach ricotta dumplings (“meat ess meatballs”). Outdoor dining in good weather. Namesake Rodolfo and brother Renato Sperandeo celebrating 11 years. Limited, reasonable wine list. $$

ITALIAN/”ITAL-LITE”

ROYAL CHINA, 201 Preston Royal Village, 214-361-1771- Lunch and dinner. Attractive restaurant with straightforward menu of Chinese well prepared favorites. Willing service, spices, and seasonings adjusted to your taste. Bonus: interesting vegetable dishes and vegetarian tofu specialties. $

CHINESE

THE RUSSIAN ROOM, 500 Hotel Crescent Court, 214-922-3333. Din|ner. Closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. A surprising treasure upstairs over the deli. First-class Russian restaurant serving shash-lik, Stroganoff, chicken Kiev, traditional herring with dill potatoes, stuffedpotatoes, stuffed cabbage, homemade blinis rolled in salmon roe or caviar. Live entertainment, imperial surroundings, food fit for a czar. $$$

EASTERN EUROPEAN

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE, 5922 Cedar Springs at Inwood, 214-902-8080. Open seven days, dinner only. Most popular corn-fed steaks. Signature: shrimp rémoulade, BBQ shrimp. Yes, there is a vegetable platter, even though it’s not on the menu. Attracts business and professional people, special celebrations. This is the home of serious steaks. Country French building overlooks meandering stream. Upholstered antique church pews in the oak bar; white tablecloths and brass candles with frosted shades in the dining room; 1,200 bottles of wine on view behind an arch foretell an extensive wine list. $$$

STEAK

SAMMY’S bar-b-Q, 2126 Leonard near Maple, 214-880-9064- Lunch only 11-3; closed Sundays. Hungry guy-size servings of smoked brisket, succulent ribs, turkey, slow-roasted pork loin, sausage. Sinfully rich sides of country-style casseroles: potato, zucchini, barbecue beans. Slab-size sandwiches and creamy slaw, then big wedges of apple or pecan pie for dessert. If that’s your style, this is your place! No smoking. Take-out and local delivery; seasonal outdoor dining. $

BARBECUE

S & D OYSTER COMPANY, 2701 McKinney at Boll, 214-880-0111. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday, holidays. Southern Gulf Coast and New Orleans-style seafood; red-checked tablecloths. Casual, bustling oyster bar with fresh seafood, thick and steamy gumbo, fresh fish simply broiled to perfection. $$

SEAFOOD

Sipango, 4513 Travis, 214-522-2411. Lunch and dinner weekdays. Ron Corcoran, Keith Jones, and Matthew Antonovich have hit upon a recipe for success that has made this one of the trendiest restaurants around. The entire menu is imaginative, from the pastas with a definite Mediterranean flair to selections from the oak fired grill to the wood-fired oven pizzas. Even if you feed on the attention, you’ll enjoy the tastes. $$

CALIFORNIA/ITALIAN

STAR CANYON RESTAURANT, 3102 Oak Lawn #144 at Cedar Springs, 214-520-7827. Lunch and dinner. Here’s where the stars at night shine big and bright, but none more sparkling than home-boy celebrity chef Stephan Pyles himself presiding over the restaurant’s open kitchen where a scurry of young chefs slice, dice, stir, and whirl native ingredients into jalapeno-stuffed smoked quail, wood-roasted rabbit enchiladas, Gulf Coast red snapper on Texas jambalaya dolloped with chilipiquin aioli, chile relleno filled with black bean chili, steak ’n’ cowboy beans, all with attitude…the ultimate Dallas dining experience at accessible prices. $$

NEW TEXAS

TANA, 3701 West Northwest Highway, #173, at Webbs Chapel, 214-350-3234- Lunch and dinner seven days, late night to 2 a.m. and live entertainment Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Even confirmed chiliheads can be challenged by sear-ingly spiced Ethiopian cuisine, but at Tana they’ll tame it for the tender-tongued. Doro wot is a curry-like chicken mixture served on the tradi-tional “injera” bread, a spongy sourdough crepe. Traditionally, you tear off pieces and use it as a carrier. Vegetable dishes are great. “Greens” like kale bint at the African tie with down-home southern veggies. Italian, American, or Middle Eastern foods are served, too, for the timid. Ethiopian entertainment. $

ETHIOPIAN

TONY’S WINE WAREHOUSE AND BISTRO, 2904 Oak Lawn at Gillespie, 214-520-WINE. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. What better surroundings for a wine lover? Candles, flowers, white tablecloths, classical music. Simple bistro fare, beautifully executed; filet mignon with brandy and peppercorns, spicy shrimp on pasta, catch of the day simply grilled, redolent garlic soup. Crème brulée for dessert. Waiters are multilingual; foreign travelers frequent the place in search of wine buys. Wine classes. $$

FRENCH BISTRO

UNCLE JULIO’S, 4125 Lemmon at Douglas, 214-520-6620. Lunch and dinner. Traditional hacienda style; portions large enough to feed the entire village. Mesquite-grilled meats and poultry, cabrito, fajitas, spicy ribs, quail among the favorites, served with freshly made tortillas (they make their own). Signature dish: Plato Gordo (literally “fat plate,” be forewarned). Extensive plants and landscaping; festive (read: loud) atmosphere, $

MEXICAN

WATEL’S, 1923 McKinney at Harwood, 214-720-0323. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays, closed holidays. Southern France is the inspiration for many of the dishes chef-owner Rene Peeters offers at this charming bistro. Flawlessly grilled fresh fish, hearty bean dishes, herh-scenved lamb, rabbit, game and seasonal choices, even the organ meats beloved by the French but hard to find in American restaurants. $$

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

WHITE SWAN CAFE, 3888 Oak Lawn in Turtle Creek Village, Suite 135, 214-528-7028. Lunch and dinner. Pastas and paella share the menu with Cuban tamales, citrus-marinated steak, traditional Cuban sandwiches. $$

CUBAN

YAMAGUCHI’S BAR AND SUSHI, 7713 Inwood at Lovers, 214-350-8660. The sushi’s perfectly prepared, but there’s a lot more to sample: wonderful, rosy salmon flash-seared and served in a ginger-spiked lime baste, marinated duck fragrant with brandy and apricot essence, pork with an Asian pear filling, all artistically presented. $$

JAPANESE

yellow, 2719 McKinney at Worthington, 214-871-1772. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays, closed Sundays. East meets West cuisine with the sure hand of chef-owner Avner Samuels (who’s better at creating dishes than restaurant names. The last. “Da Spot,” closed after only a few months.) As always, the dishes are imaginative, polished, and perfectly presented; seared ahi tuna, foie gras with mung beans, or duck with tamarind plum sauce. For his fans’ sake, lets hope this one lasts. $$$

NEW AMERICAN

ZIZIKI’S RESTAURANT AND BAR, 4514 Travis at Armstrong, 214-521-2233. Lunch and dinner until midnight, closed Sunday. Cross a Greek diner with a Soho-style bistro and a trendy wine bar, throw in some Italian blood and a Hawaiian upbringing and here’s what you get: Chef Costa Arabatzis’ eatery. Fad-free fusion that scours the Mediterranean and Aegean for inspiration, then lightens up on the oil. All your Greek favorites, plus pasta originals. Open kitchen with Italian tile hand-crafted bar. $

MEDITERRANEAN

Northeast

AL DENTE CAFE. 1920 Greenville, 214-821-6054- Bargain neighborhood place with the kind of kalian fare you remember (even to the prices). Mussels and calamari, veal cacdatore, baked ziti, Gamberoni Fra Diavola. Got the picture? When you’re in the mood for candle- in-a-Chianti-bot-t le cuisine, this place won’t disappoint. Lovely oak bar, intimate dining. $

ITALIAN

ARANSAS PASS CAFE, 2912 North Henderson at Central, 214-827-8650. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday, 6-11 p.m. Fresh gulf seafood and Texas-style dishes star: honey-jalapeno glazed pork loin a winner! Or sweet com chile relleno, Thai-style tuna taco, Maine lobster with sea scallops. Sweet indulgences: “Beeville Honey”: cinnamon-dusted tortilla with home-made ice cream; sautéed bananas with strawberries. Owners met working at Four Seasons. Great patio; weekends live music. $

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

ARC-EN-CIEL, 3555 West Walnut at Jupiter, Garland, 214-272-2188. Lunch and dinner. The real appeal here is the interesting Vietnamese section of the menu: spicy stir-fried steak with Oriental veggies, your choice of chicken, fish, or seafood with minced veggies, noodles, and seasonings rolled up in “rice paper” (paper-thin rice crepes). Savory noodle dishes, hot curries, earthen pot stews, and mealsize soups abound. Culinary adventurers rejoice! $

VIETNAMESE/CHINESE

CAFFE PAPARAZZI, 8989 Forest at Greenville, 214-644-1323. Lunch and dinner, closed holidays. Contemporary black and white decor softened with tropical foliage and oil lamps: Soft Mediterranean music. Specialties: lamb, seafood, and pasta nova. Most popular: spinach, mushroom asparagus lasagna. Vegetarians rejoice! Luscious gnocchi and cannelloni, too. Lunch-rime favorite of nearby medics. Outdoors on nice days. Full bar, booths. $$

ITALIAN, NUOVA CUCINA

CARib-b, 2012 Greenville, 214-824-3395. Lunch and dinner, closed Mondays.You’ll imagine soft breezes, sway ing palms, and pounding surf when you sample jerk chicken, fresh fish, and goat prepared in the island manner. $

CARIBBEAN

DADDY JACK’S, 1916 Greenville at Ross, 214-826-4910. Dinner seven nights. Owner/chef Jack Chaplin re-created a typical backstreet Boston chowderhouse, right down to the live lobsters. Perfectly prepared fresh fish, sea-scented lobster bisque, and clam chowder will have you talking like a Yankee local. Featured in season: fresh soft-shell crabs, stone crabs, oysters, scampi, mussels marinara, grilled tuna with lobster brandy sauce, salmon with Dijon caper cream sauce.$$

SEAFOOD

FLIP’S wine BAR, 1520 Greenville at Ross, 214-824-9944- Dinner to 2 a.m. every night. “Serious Italian food” as the menu claims, coupled with a nice selection of teasonahly priced wines by the glass, plus 25 different draft beers and an equal number of imports. The wine list includes champagne and sparkling wine, port, sherry, and dessert wine. Mix and match pastas with sauces, or order one of the inventive pizzas on whole-wheat or focaccia crust. $$

ITALIAN

FRANKI’S L’lL EUROPE, 362 Casa Linda Plaza, 214-320-0426. Lunch and Dinner. This is the only place in Dallas where you can sample Cevapcici, the Slavic version of a cheeseburger, only spicier. The last rime we tried it was in Yugoslavia…uh, make that Croatia. Or Serbia? $$

EASTERN AND CENTRAL EUROPE

GERSHWIN’S BAR & GRILL, 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville, 2 4-373-7171. Lunch and dinner White tablecloths, oil lamps, fresh flowers on every table, the romantic tinkle of the piano, stylish samplings for appetizers, an au courant menu: tenderloir with garlic-whipped potatoes, blackened salmon, grilled yellowfin tuna with avocado cilantro sauce, snapper en papillote, “Beggar’s Purse” filled with lobster and shrimp in a creany bisque. Trendy pizzas and pastas. Popular Sunday brunch; outdoor dining in good weather.$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

THE GRAPE, 2808 Greenville near Goodwin, 214-828-1981. Lunch and dinner weekdays;din-ner only Saturdays and Sundays. Blackboard menu features well-executed New American style bistro dishes; excellent wines; a cozy, romantic spot. $$

WINE BAR/BISTRO

KOKOPELLI BY VIA REAL, 9090 Skillman at Audelia, Suite 158A, at Audelia, 214-503-0242. Lunch and dinner; closed holidays. Sister to Via Real in Las Colinps, this is another visually satisfying setting with an adobe design in warm Southwest tones, strategically placed waterfalls, and puehlo motifs. The menu is more Mex than Tex or Southwest, with style and sophistication-Most popular: Squash enchiladas, fajitas, bacon-wrapped scallops, ceviche, and the carefully grilled pescado del dia (catch of the day). There’s an extensive vegetarian menu, including garlic butter beans and rice. Extensive wine list, well priced. $$

SOUTHWESTERN/MEXICAN

MAtt’s RANCHO MARTINEZ, 6312 La Vista Drive at Gaston, 214-823-5517. Lunch anddin-ner, closed Monday. Busy, popular place puts a healthy new spin on old standards: flautas are grilled, cowboy beans are fat-free. “Lite” fajitas, even all-veggie fajitas. But then there’s buttermilk-battered chicken-fried steak, frog’s legs, chile rellenos stuffed with beef, chicken, shrimp, or vegetables, plus Texas pecans, raisins, and Jack cheese, $

MEXICAN

NERO’S, 2100 Greenville at Prospect, 214-826-6376. Dinner every night, Fresh seafood with pasta or rice, and veal chops an inch and a half thick with your choice of sauces: Masala-mush-room, port wine spiked with cracked pepper, or a zesty green peppercorn butter. Most popular; Linguini fra diavpla: pasta with sea scallops, shrimp, and mushrooms. But don’t miss the chicken breast stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, and spinach, all topped with creamy garlic sauce. The “pink garlic dread” gets its color from tomato and grated mozzarella. $$

ITALIAN

PINOT’S WINE BAR AND CAFE, 2926 North Henderson, 214-8264949. Dinner. Small spot; interesting wines by the glass. Limited $32.50 fixed-price menu includes a bottle of house wine married to such choices as roast lamb, herbed swordfish, chicken Santa Fe. or Pork Marchand de Vin (includes soup, salad and dessert). Call for wine dinner schedule, $$

ECLECTIC

ROYAL THAI, 5500 Greenville #802 at Old Town Village, 214-691-3555. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner Saturdays and Sundays. Fiery cuisine (toned down to your taste) beautifully presented in pleasing setting. Try the meal-size soups, the shrimp stir-fry with Asian noodles, or the hot: curries in banana leaf. $$

THAI

ROYAL TOKYO, 7525 Greenville, 214-368-3304-Lunch and dinner daily, Sunday buffet 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Authentic sushi bar, the largest in Texas. Tatami room offers kimono-clad servers in the traditional manner (wells for your feet; no need to sit cross-legged! ) Hibachi food cooked at your table. Big draws: Black Angus beef, the karaoke bar. Extensive, well-written menu explains cuisine and customs to Westerners. $$

JAPANESE

SAN FRANCISCO ROSE, 3024 Greenville at Monticello, 214-826-2020. Lunch and dinner, late night to 2 a.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., complimentary buffet Monday to Friday, 4 p.m,-7 p.m. Grandaddy of the Dallas sports bars; daily happy hour, 4 p.m.-7 p.m. Trophy room for sports fails; patio for outdoor dining in nice weather. $

SPORTS BAR

SINBAD’S PALACE, 9220 Skillman, 214-340-4445. Sunday to Friday lunch, dinner every night. Fragrant spices and the scent of lemon, garlic, and herbs make Middle Eastern food so appealing. Try baba ghanoush, the dip made of roasted eggplant and sesame paste, or hummus (chickpea dip), feta cheese pies, stuffed grape leaves, shish kebab, stuffed roasted veggies, couscous and baklava for dessert. Entertainment on weekends. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN

ST. MARTINS WINE BISTRO, 3020 Greenville, 214-826-0940. Lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch. Extensive selection of wines by the glass, moderately priced, to pair with such elegantly executed entrees as shrimp and scallops in a creamy wine sauce, baby lamb chops with Dijon-garlic bordelaise, tournedos, fresh pasta, homemade paté, excellent cheese choices. Check the blackboard specials. $$

FRENCH

TERILLI’S, 2815 Greenville at Vickery, 214-827-3993. Lunch and dinner, late night to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, Sunday brunch 1 l:30a.m.to 3 p.m. Business lunch spot by day, Italian bistro/supper-club by night. Live jazz nightly. Chicken primav-era most popular. Try the “Ital-chos,” nacho-size chips of pizza crust with a variety of Italian toppings. Outdoor dining, too. $S

ITALIAN

TlPPERARY INN, 5815 Live Oak at Skillman, 214-823-7167- Dinnerandlate night,open4pm. to 2 a.m. every clay. Wednesday to Saturday nights, Celtic music. A bit o’ the ol’ sod here on the plains. Irish-bom Martin and Anne Lombard looked for an Irish pub in Dallas to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day. Finding none, (hey decided to open one. Chef David Lafferty won rave reviews with a very different kind of menu at his last place in Connecticut. Here, he good-naturedly serves up a stylized version of Guinness beef stew, seafood boxty (potato crepe), Irish smoked salmon, corned beef, and cabbage. Whiskey bread pudding made with Irish soda bread; the soups are hearty, and so’s the crowd. $

IRISH

YEGUA CREEK BREWING COMPANY, 2920 North Henderson, 214-824-BREW. Lunch and dinner. Open to midnight, Thursday through Saturday until 2 a.m. Pig heaven for beer aficionados, appropriately paired with adroitly prepared entrees with a Southwest sting. Try salmon in beer batter and “beerbecued” buffalo brisket tacos, or black bean ravioli topped with Asiago cream sauce. They’ve outdone themselves with pizza ideas; smoked venison and boar sausage with ancho chilies and wild mushrooms. It’s a bucket o’ fun. $

SOUTHWESTERN

Oak Cliff

SWEET GEORGIA BROWN, 2840 East Ledbetter, 214-375-2020. Lunch and dinner every day; open to 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Collards, cornbread, black-eyed peas, fried chicken, barbecue ribs.. .this is old-time down-home southern cookin’ with no cholesterol updates. Owner Walter Williams, formerly of the Detroit Lions, named it after his grandmother and modeled the menu on her kitchen. There’s a fresh harvest of veggies every day-about 15 choices- some slow-cooked with a hamhock, others sl-1-low baked in casseroles. Fresh fruit cobbler is included in the plate price: $5.49, entree and three side dishes. Gospel music makes a rousing background; it’s live on Sundays, 2 to 4 p.m. No alcohol; no credit cards. $

HOME COOKING

TILLMAN’S CORNER, 324 West Seventh at Bishop, 214-942-0988. Lunch weekdays, dinner Thursday through Sunday. Don’t let the laid-back look put you off; foodies are finding this place to their liking. Ricky Tillman is a talented chef who wows them with crab cakes and orange chipotle sauced pasta, grilled pork and horseradish-mashed potatoes, authentic cedar planked salmon, Southwest cilantro chicken with a black bean salsa, tangy Key lime pie, sinfully rich bourbon-sauced chocolate cake, and intensely flavored sorbets. He’s equally adept with vegetarian and no-fat choices, too. Comfortable interior with country antiques, kots of plants, scented candles. Wine requires a $2 memhership. Call about winc dinners ( $40-$ 50 ) generally on the third Wednesdays; Sunday night live jazz. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



Far North

ACCOLADES, 19009 Preston, 214-713-7090. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturdays, brunch only Sundays. Dallas restaurant vets Victor Mari Alonso (La Tosca and Trieste) and Chef Christian Svalesen (Ristorante Savino) team successfully in this stylish North Dallas gathering place with all the right elements: great bar, smart New American menu with Mediterranean and Northern Italian influences. Example: salmon Napoleon with Swiss chard, green peppercorn-studded lobster on angel hair, New Zealand venison with black currant sauce, flourless chocolate torte, “Dreamsicle parfait”: housemade vanilla ice cream swirled with tangerine sorbet. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

ADDISON CAFE, 5290 Belt Line #108 at Montfort, 214-991 -8824. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner only Saturday, Sunday, Appealing French bistro-style dishes are perfectly turned out in this tiny treasure. Roasted rabbit “grandmother style,” duckling with peach bigarade sauce, grilled salmon with a lemon-caper couscous, classic onion soup dripping with cheese. Save room for the desserts: warm apple tart topped with caramel bourbon sauce and French vanilla ice cream for the truly decadent. Don’t eat tomorrow! $$

FRENCH BISTRO

SEA GRILL, 2205 North Central at Park, Piano, 214-509-5542. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturday, closed Sunday. Adroitly executed seafood and fish are the specialties here, absolutely fresh, lightly grilled or imaginatively combined intoentrees with East-West flair and flavor. Most popular, and deservedly so: red salmon with a peppery lemon haste, perfectly broiled giant sea scallops, and the pasta topped with shrimp and lobster in a vodka cream sauce. Well selected rea-sonable wine list. Intensely flavored lime or mango sorbet makes a nice finish. $$

SEAFOOD

BLUE mesa GRILL, 5100 Belt Line at the Tollway, Addison, 214-934-0165. Lunch and dinner 365 days. Worth the trip just for the two versions of nuevo adobe pie: chicken, cheese, and roasted peppers baked in fresh com masa, and a vegetarian version with whole black beans, tomatillos, and mushrooms. The digs are adobe style with Southwest artwork, mesa colors, lots of cacti, Santa Fe-style outdoor dining. $$

SOUTHWESTERN

BOLERO GRILL, 5290 Belt Line at Montfort, Addison, suite 102B, 214-490-8686. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Limited but well-chosen, inexpensive wine list. Most popular: Harira {lentil) soup, kebab. Signature dishes: cappelini primavera with grilled lamb sausage, pan-seared tilapia, grilled veggies over orzo pasta with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

CAFE ATHENEE, 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, 214-239-8060. Lunch and dinner six days; closed Sunday and holidays. Romantic English library decor: dark paneling, white tablecloths, warm chandeliers, fresh flowers, potted palms, soft music. Senior execs and affluents come for business lunches, quiet dinners. Most popular: gypsy appetizer platter, homemade Rumanian sausage. Signature: sole à la scorpio, chicken martini ( low-fat), grand-mothet’s stuffed cabbage, white caviar salad. $$

EASTERN EUROPEAN/CONTINENTAL

CHAMBERLAIN’S PRIME CHOP HOUSE, 5330 Belt Line, Town Hall Square at Montfort, Addison, 214-934-2467. Dinner, closed Sunday. Free valet. Fashioned after a ’50s-style European brasserie: polished brass, dark woods, and deep burgundy tones. Most popuar: tenderloin stuffed with por-tobello, lamb and horseradish-mashed potatoes, peppered venison steak, slow-smoked prime rib. Dallas-bom namesake chef (Mansion, Crescent Club, and Agnew vet) is co-owner. $$

STEAK

COPELAND’S OF NEW ORLEANS, 5353 Belt Line at Prestonwood/Montfort, 214-661-1883. Lunch and dinner. Busy, hustling Dallas site of the popular Cajun chain in attractive brass-greenery-Tiffany-lamplit sotting. Pleasing adaptations of Cajun classics: gumbo, shrimp étouffée, blackened redfish, andouille sausage with red beans and rice, plus pasta, ribs, burgers, Po’ hoys, croissant sandwiches, pecan cookie-crusted cheesecake, sweet potato bread pudding. Specialty drinks and coffees, creative kid’s meru, “lite” and veggie offerings. Sunday brunch bar, booths, seasonal outdoor dining, child seats, take-out, local delivery. $$

CAJUN

DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE, 5251 Spring Valley at the Tollway, 214-490-9000. Dinner, closed Sunday. The carnivore’s castle. White tablecloths, candles, lots of tourists, frequent flyers, and visiting firemen in search of the quintessential Texas steak experience. Here it is. Mega-lobsters, too.$$$

STEAK

FERRARI’S VILLA, 14831 Midway near Belt Line, Addison, 214-980-9898. Lunch weekdays; dinner six nights; closed Sundays. Has been turning out classic old country pizzas and fabulous focaccia breads since 1983, along with succulent seafood, steaks at d chops, chicken and veal, authentic pasta dishes. $$

ITALIAN

FUJI-YA, 13050 Coit at LBJ, 214-690-8396. Lunch and dinner, closed Mondays, dinner only Sundays. Tiny, traditional sushi bar with former sumo wrestler as owner. Perfectly prepared, totally authentic Japanese dishes combined with low prices make this a favorite with Japanese nationals living he re. $

JAPANESE

GASPAR’S, 150 South Denton Tap Road at Sandy Lake, Coppell, 214-393-5152. Lunch and dinner weekdays dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. (No affilia ion with Gaspar’s in Dallas.) Chef Steven Pilat picks up the gauntlet here with signature dishes: park schnitzel with lemon and capers, red snapper sopped with shrimp and scallops in a lemony dill sauce, San Francisco-style crab cakes, lobster and crayfish napoleons, smoked salmon served with corn pancake, lamb chops grilled with ohive-infused olive oil. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

HUNTINGTON’S, (it the Westin Hotel) 13340 Dallas Parkway at LBJ, 214-851-2882. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. An elegant respite in a beautifully appointed dining room with lots of greenery and fresh flowers, wingback chairs. You’ll be cradled in comfort, surrounded by soothing music, and spoiled with attentive service. The menu promises Dover sole meuniere, rack of lamb, wild boar and other game, longhom beef, even pan-seared ostrich with sun-dried blueberry chutney. Winner of the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award, it offers an extensive, yet moderately priced selection. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

MAY DRAGON, 4848 Belt Line at Inwood, Addison, 214-392-9998. Lunch and dinner 365 days. One of the most scrutable Chinese menus ever; descriptions so complete you can use it as a cookbook. Almost as many dishes, too! Most popular, sesame chicken, crispy whole red snapper in Hunan sauce, Peking duck. Hong Kong-style steak. Roll your own: lettuce with shrimp, chicken, pork or vegetarian. Giant fortune cookie filled with chocolate mousse. Piano music Friday and Saturday nights. $$

CHINESE

MEDITERRANEO, 18111 Preston at Frankford, 214-447-0066. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Smoke-free dining rooms, smoking in bar only. Classy continental decor (lighting won a design award). This is the more casual sister restaurant to The Riviera; exec chef David Holben creates menus for both. CIA gtad scholarship program took him to France to work in famed kitchens: Roger Verge, Paul Bocuse in Lyon, the George V Hotel in Paris. Must popular: capellini crab pancake, double cut lamb chop, polenta-crusted salmon. $$

MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO

Ml PIACl, 14854 Montfort, Addison, 214-934-8424. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, Saturday and Sunday dinner only. Homemade Bologna-style pasta (with eggs), and hand-stirred risotto dishes with imported short grain rice are featured. Try the salmon and sea scallop risotto. Or the cappellacci: giant ravioli filled with fresh crahmeat, finished with lemon cream and asparagus. Brodo frutti di mare is the classic fishermen’s stew, enough for two. Simple pleasures: new potatoes roasted with rosemary and olive oil. $$

ITALIAN

MR. SUSHI, 4860 Belt Line, Addison, 214-385-0168. Lunch and dinner. Sushi in the best tradition exquisitely prepared and adroitly presented. For a real feast, order the 12-cotirse banquet (and never gain an ounce). For fun, have shahu-shabu: wafer-thin beet, yam noodles, tofu cooked at your table in a fragrant broth. Appetizer list great for adventurers: Asari in sake, boiled sea snail. Except tor tempura, most items are low in fat. $$$

JAPANESE

PICASSO’S RISTORANTE, 3948 Legacy at Coit, Piano, 214-618-4143. Lunch and dinner. Traditional neighborhood “ristorante fare” in a pleasant setting; low entree prices, and you can bring your own wine. Kid-sized servings, half-price. Lots of veal and seafood dishes; thin crust Neapolitan-style pizza, too. Chicken rollatine wrapped around crabmeat is the specialty. $

ITALIAN

PREIZLER’S DELICATESSEN & BAKERY, 116 Preston Valley Shopping Center at LBJ, 214-458-8896, Fax 214-701-8571, 3100 Independence Pkwy., 964-4044. Breakfast and lunch, Monday-through Friday 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.. Sunday 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., closed Saturdays. If you lust after lox, cry for knishes or salivate over smoked sable, here’s your place. Genuine Jewish penicillin (chicken soup with mat:oh halls or kreplach) chopped liver, potato latkes (pancakes) with applesauce, blintzes (crepes), pure beef franks. The bakery turns out 2 7 flavors of fat-free bagels, challah (egg bread) “the best Jewish rye bread in Texas,” and pastries (some are even sugar-free). Sandwiches are stupendous; corned beef, hot pastrami, longue, smoked turkey in any combination served with fresh slaw or pota-to salad and the mandatory pickles. No alcohol. Fax for takeout. $

DELI

TUPINAMBA, 12801 Midway, #503, 214-243-2355.Lunchanddinner.Tradirional Tex-Mex fare, the way it always was: tried tacos, lots of guacamole and sour cream, retried beans, frosty salt-rimned margaritas. Embueltos are foot-wide tortillas filled with chicken, deep fat-fried, then topped with cheese. Close your eyes and imagine it’s 1940. $

MEXICAN

UNCLE TAI’S HUNAN YUAN, 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria, 214-934-9998. Lunch and dinner. Closed holidays. Upscale stylish setting with menu to match. Located on the third floor of the Galleria. Menu selections include venison and pheasant. Spicy prawns in chili sauce is our favorite. Take out available, $$

CHINESE

Midcities-Fort Wor

CAFE ON THE GREEN, ( Four Seasons Resort) 4150 North MacArthur, Irving, 214-717-2420. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Polished presentations, serene surroundings: a prime choice for social or business occasions. Select from a bounty of creative pasta dishes, many available as appetizers for sampling. à favorite: lemon pepper linguini with gulf crab cakes and purple basil infused with olive oil. The cafe’s alternative low-calorie cuisine is tops: try seared grouper with crayfish comhread scuffing or open-face ravioli layered with asparagus, artichokes, mushrooms, and balsamic tomato sauce. The wine room seats 10-16 and features a glassed-in cellar and cafe views. Winner of the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$

NEW AMERICAN

VIA REAL, 4020 North MacArthur at Las Colinas Plaza, Suite 100, Irving, 214-255-0064. Lunch and dinner seven days, closed holidays. Mexican cuisine with Santa Fe style in a lovely Las Colinas set-tin”; menu is right on target. The restaurant’s unique black ceiling gives the illusion of an outdoor courtyard at night. The decor continues with a Spanish balcony, and sparkling water spilling from urn to urn. Try the Gulf shrimp on serrano chili fettuccine, or the almond-crusted chicken in a spicy orange-scented sauce. Squash enchiladas and mushroom tacos are great selections tor vegetarians. Bargain-priced wine list. $$

MEXICAN

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