WHAT SUITS DALLAS FOR SPRING?

“WITH THIS BOLD AND UTTERLY FEMININE LINE, [HE] OFFERED A GLIMPSE OF THE FUTURE IN WHICH WOMEN WOULD ONCE AGAIN BE BEAUTIFUL AND DESIRABLE.”

The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion. 1968

In postwar 1947 Christian Dior introduced the New Look, ridding the post war world of the drab and dreary. Following in the well-dressed heels of Dior, today’s designers turn again to the allure of truly feminine fashions, banishing from our wardrobes ideas like “grunge” and the “waif look.”

The spring 1995 look is feminine. glamorous and romantic. Dresses are sleeveless with fitted jackets; skirts are narrow and short: shoes are high-heeled and strappy; and belts are thin. And colors are abundant, ranging from the very- bright yellows, tangerines and greens to an Impressionistic field of pastels. Pink prevails.

According to Shelle Bagot. owner of the Gazebo on Preston Road, “It’s a 1940s retrospective with a 1990s point of view. If you look at some of the wonderful, feminine styles of the 40s and then add today’s fabrics and colors, you’ll see that designers have created clothes that are not only fabulous to look at, but also adaptable to the demands of women’s lifestyles.”

Joan Kaner, senior vice president and fashion director for Neiman Marcus, notes that designers and consumers have a new “enthusiasm” for elegant, well-constructed clothes. “Clothes are being meticulously designed and tailored to fit the body… feminine clothes that inspire elegance and glamour, women are ready for it.”

“Finally, women don’t have to dress like men to work alongside them,” explains Bill Dodson, president of the Lilly Dodson boutique in Highland Park Village. “Business women can dress like women should- reflecting their personalities. If that is a dark pinstripe suit, fine. But I think a lot of women are thrilled to be able to wear clothes to the office that are more reflective of their personalities, their character – with color and classic, feminine lines.”

“The rest of the world is doing what Dallas has always done.” says Kay Glatter, vice president and director of the women’s division at Stanley Korshak. “Dallas women have always been glamorous, beautiful and feminine and they’ve loved being those things. Dallas women have always been very secure.”

Barney’s Manager Linda Campbell, a native California!] who lived in Seattle before moving to Dallas a year ago. agrees that Dallas’ women have a unique style. “There’s a pride about people for their city and the things they do here that is very special. 1 think that same pride is reflected in the way Dallas dresses, with pride and care.”

Leslie Melnick Diers. president of Lester Melnick, notes that color has always been important to Dallas fashion. “Maybe it”s our personality to be outgoing, not subtle, and therefore particularly responsive to color,” she says. “However, it’s the first time in the 15 years I’ve been buying, that pastels have made such a powerful impact on the spring line.

’This year there isn’t a color more important than pink,” says Leon Hall, New York based fashion analyst and creative director of the Dallas Apparel Mart. “Pink is a buoyant, effervescent, happy color…and everyone can wear pink because pink can be as pale as the sunrise, or as sharp and gutsy as hot pink or magenta.”

Dallas fashion insiders also agree that the news this spring is fabric and flexibility. “The fabrication this year is wonderful and very conducive to Dallas, both in lifestyle and climate,” Campbell notes, “The acetate blends, with silk and viscose, are wonderful to look at. to touch, and they (ran take a busy day in Dallas.”

“Clothes for customers in the Metroplex need to be fun, exciting.” explains Inge Manautou of Inge’s in Las Colinas. “The good news is that we have is new fabrics. With better micro fibers, we can look better longer.” One of the microfibers she carries in her denim line is tencel, a soft, slippery fabric which lends denim jeans a butter-soft touch.

Fabric becomes increasingly important because today’s clothes have taken on some new responsibilities. Looking great is no longer enough. They have to walk. sit and pack well. “Clothes must work with a woman’s lifestyle. It is critical,” says Idelle Rabin of Delann’s. “Whether it’s carpool, volunteer work and hosting a dinner for a husband and clients, or the executive who needs to be in the boardroom and then on the soccer held in the afternoon. Our customers are busy, and their clothes cannot be adding demands on their lives.”

Dodson adds, “The day of the designers’ dictating fashion are gone; collections now reflect the personalities and the needs of the consumer. There isn’t any room in the market for clothes that don’t.”

But what are the characteristics of the Dallas woman with a passion for fashion? Do we shop like others from similar warm weather climates? Or do we reflect the tastes of Manhattan?



CLOTHES THAT INSPIRE



Although the basis for the Dallas look is found in New York. Dallas has its own breed of shopper. “Dallas wears what is fashion…right off the runway in New York. What the fashion conscious doesn’t want to do is repeal yesterday’s news,” says Loretta Blum, whose boutique is in Preston Center. “’And the best dressed of Dallas rarely repeat.”

“Yes, we have a certain simpatico with Floridians and Californians. but the sunbelt mentality only works for Dallas to a point. Rabin said. “We have a fashion point of view that aligns us with New York.

“Even though people are dressing casually more of the time, and that does look like California and Florida, we tend to be more cutting edge.” Rabin added.

“In Texas we have our own identity. and Dallas probably always takes the first step.” says Dodson. “We are a little more forward. There’s more risk-taking in fashion here… But that’s because Dallas women are more beautiful than they are anywhere else. And beautiful women can take fashion risks more quickly than others.”

Others agree that Dallas women have a unique appeal, “It’s chalk and cheese; they do not compare at all.” There’s Dallas and there’s Texas. If people say Texas has style, then they are talking about Dallas.” Hall says.

Nancy Diebolt. owner of Turtletique in Inwood Village, agrees. “Dallas women are outstandingly beautiful. They care about their make up. their hair and their bodies.” This attention to the components of beauty is what makes this season’s fashions perfect for the Dallas woman. The 19″ skirts, pencil pants and fitted jackets are designed to Halter the well-shaped shapes.

Getting dressed “up” may take on an extra special meaning this spring. High heels are living up to their name. They are spiky, spindly and strappy. Judy Steakley at Bally says the lacy, spike heels with the strappy open look are selling daily. “If someone is going to buy just one or two pairs of shoes this spring, they should buy bright, like the colored patent leather.” adds Becky Peacock, fashion director of Saks.

Depending on whom you ask, jewelry sizes have grown or diminished since last spring. Jewelry reflects the personality and lifestyle of the individual. “Jewelry needs to work for whomever is wearing it, not just complementing her physique, but also personality… her concerns.” explains Dallas jewelry designer Dian Malouf.

Malouf’s pieces, often created in series or groups, reflect societal and environmental concerns. With names like, “love, life and liberty.” “flowers, ferns and rain forests,” “frankly Franco”, and “the food chain.” Malouf’s work in silver, gold, precious gems, and glass runs the gamut in size. The important thing about jewelry, according to Malouf and others, is that women are learning how to wear jewelry better than they used to.

This season, some pieces of clothing are really jewelry. Ann Hartley, owner of the Ann Hartley Boutique, may have your “treasure piece.” “1 have the more unusual, the “wonderful finds’ that take a woman out of the norm, into her dreams. And it doesn’t mean outrageous. It means a special jacket or skirt that complements and works with designer pieces, but makes that outfit more that woman’s.”

What about the non-perfect body for this year’s well fitted styles? “The good news is that there are choices; you may have to look beyond the catalogue or magazine pages, but the variety is there, according to Elizabeth Raab. manager of Macy’s by Appointment (MBA). ’There are swing skirts. A-line skirts, and wider pants legs…And those short skirts can often come down an inch or two.” Raab added. “Knowing what flatters and how to make small adjustments, like the right belt or shoe is the solution. It’s the tricks of fashion, not the trends that we need to pay attention to.”

“The important thing is that women shouldn’t be intimidated by fashion; they should enjoy it.” according to Peacock of Saks. Most women have more fashion savvy than they give themselves credit for. Designers have listened to women’s wishes. This is a great season, particularly for the Dallas woman, to enjoy what’s out there.”

Glatter has a final piece of advice for women serious about investing in dressing: “Do your homework, research your stores and find a store where you feel comfortable and a sales person you really trust. Then you build a wardrobe piece by piece. And don’t ever take your husband on the first look.”