Restaurant Listings

Downtown

650 NORTH Plaza of the Americas Hotel, 650 North Pearl at San Jacinto, Dallas, 214-979-9000. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner 365 days. Prize-winning Chef Mario Reyes from Toronto’s Four Seasons Inn has a special knack with seafood: pan-seared sea scallops with two-pepper sauce, sword-fish and tuna with gazpacho tondue. And these are the starred heart -healthy entrees! Check on Chef’s Table classes: learn your dinner! $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

ANTARES Reunion Tower, 300 Reunion at Hyatt Regency Drive, 214-712-7145. Lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Open 365 days. Our town’s only revolving restaurant. Usually one is more than enough, but this one breaks the cycle: the food is great anyway. Grilled shrimp hasted with lime and chiles, or order the “Southwest Feast of Life”: a whole personal buffet on a plate, shrimp, clams, scallops, chicken and green chile tamatillo salsa. Other picks: pecan crusted snapper with dried cranberries or mahi mahi piled with passion fruit chutney. Southwest influences everywhere. Take the kids; they’ll love it. And the feeling is mutual: 1/2 size 1/2 price. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

CRESCENT CITY CAFE 2615 Commerce at Good-Latimer, 214-745-1900, Monday-Thursday lunch only, Friday and Saturday dinner and lunch, closed Sunday. Casual downtown business lunch crowd; popular with nearby Baylor Hospital people. Most popular: muffaletta and po’ boy sandwiches. Signature dish: Crawfish etoufee. Don’t miss the beignets. Children’s menu: mini-sandwiches, corn dogs, chicken fingers. Muffaletta hot on eight-inch, fresh-baked Italian bun with salami, moz-zarella, provolone and olive salad topping. Real steal: 1/4 muffaletta and gumbo, $5.50. $

CAJUN. CREOLE

DA’ SPOT 2614 Main, 214-742-6110. Lunch and dinner. Chef Avner Samuel’s fusion cuisine looks east and west. Try his original, intensely flavorful tortilla soup; then perfectly poached giant scallops in a ginger black bean sauce or the mildly sweet duck serval on an apple beignet. Or open with tuna sashimi, Mack risotto with Louisiana crayfish butter, or soba noodles and Chinese sausage. Spectacular starters, fabulous finishes: marscapone cheesecake freckled with chocolate chips; creme brulee, Jack Daniel’s chocolate mousse. Bare oak floors give a Soho look. Live jazz at night. $$$

GLOBAL ECLECTIC

DAKOTA’S 600 North Akard at Ross, 214-740-4001. Lunch and dinner. Underground patio with waterfall and garden. Must popular: swordfish, lamb, five-pepper chicken. Signature dish: lamb chops with minted angel-hair pasta. Menu lists calories and fat on the Dakota signature dish: cirrus-marinated chicken with herhed wild rice and asparagus. Go for the vegetable lasagna. Then use the saved calories for vanilla bean cheesecake with gingerbread crust and minted pistachio sauce. Or apple pecan chimichanga. Can you believe it? There’s even Kahlua low-tat, mile-high pie made with Haagen Dazs frozen yogurt. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY

DEEP ELLUM CAFE 2706 Elm, 214-741-9012. Lunch and dinner. Trendy spot typifies the Deep Ellum melange with a trend-surfer’s menu to match: Singapore -style noodles, jerked pork chop marinated with scotch bonnet ( habanero) chiles, lime and Jamaica spices served with grilled bananas, coconut rice, Vietnamese grilled chicken salad. Plus Mom-style stuff: pot pie, chicken and dumplings, chicken-fried steak, grilled banana bread with vanilla ice cream and ginger butter sauce. $$

ECLECTIC

THE FRENCH ROOM Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce at Akard, 214-742-8200. Dinner, closed Sunday. Flawless food and impeccable service have always been the hallmarks here, but a meal was more like a coronation. Unless you really were royalty, yon couldn’t help but be uncomfortably awed. All that’s changed: carpets ripped out, heavy drapes swept open, bright flowers everywhere. Cuisine’s lighter, too. “Neoclassic” is lighter French, nor so austere as the old “Nouvelle”: boneless quail filled with wild mushrooms, roasted tuna au poivre. Conde Nast Traveler readers’ poll: top 50 in USA. Afternoon tea: cucumber sandwiches and petit fours on Villeroy and Boch china. $$$

FRENCH NEOCLASSIC

MOMO’S PASTA/OSTERIA DA MOMO 2704 Elm, 214-748-4222. 3312 Knox, 214-521-3009. 5290 Belt Line, Addison, 214-386-7373. Lunch and dinner. Once strictly pasta, now Momo’s offers a marvelously complete (and completely descriptive) menu of classic Italian dishes. All three share the same menu, expert preparation, and bargain prices. Wine available, but you can also bring your own. Unusual pastas, for example tagliatelle s il cocoa. (It doesn’t taste chocolatey; the cocoa provides unique consistency.) It’s tossed with peas, Gruyère and prosciutto. $$

ITALIAN

MONICA’S ACA Y ALLA 2914 Main at Oakland. 214-748-7140. Lunch Monday to Friday, dinner Tuesday to Thursday 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m., Friday, Saturday, and Sunday late night to midnight* Business crowd attracted to Deep Ellum at lunchtime. Dinner draws singles, young professionals; weekends, couples, large groups enjoying a night out. Latin, jazz, dancing; anything from tuxedos Co Bermuda shorts. This trendy spot used to be know as Eduardo’s Aca Y Alla, but after “extensive remodeling,” it has a new name: Monica’s Aca Y Alla. (You figure it out.) Southwest and Tex-Mex dishes, plus pasta. Most popular: Greene Pasta, Mexican Lasagna. Signature dishes include Pumpkin Ravioli, rat-free black beans. $$

MEXICAN

OPUS RESTAURANT Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center, 2301 Flora, 214-670-3721. Open for performances. No need to restaurant-rush before the concert. The Meyerson has appropriately classy choices at excellent prices: dinner buffet with carved-to-order certified sterling prime rib. Opus a la carte is up-to-date, for example; grilled breast of chicken in cranberry cream with ginger-pear chutney. Pasta Pavilion in the lobby assembles trendy concoctions to your order. Moderately-priced wines. Smoke free. $$

NEW AMERICAN

OUTBACK PUB 1701 North Market, 214-761-9355. Lunch and dinner seven days, open to 2 a.m. Steaks with quaint Aussie-inspired names (Alice Springs, Fair Dinkum Deal). Chicken fried steak turns up on this menu as “Chook steak.” Plus over-she meat pies (called “pasty” here). Dundee stew served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread the size of a bowling ball; fish V chips, but no shrimp on the barby. For dessert: pavolova, the Australian matshmallow meringue cake (you can feel the cavities forming already), Great beer list $

AUSTRALIAN

PALM RESTAURANT 701 Ross at Market, 214-698-0470. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday and Sunday. Enormous lobsters and hubcap-size steaks are the feature here in this quirky clone of the New York City institution. Here they still have sawdust floors and walls tiled with celebrity caricatures. Megabites of protein on every plate; so if your appetite is normal, consider sharing (or take home a doggy bag). Even the spinach is high calorie, but wonderful. Bustling bar, lots of booths. $$

STEAK

PLANET HOLLYWOOD 603 Munger in the West End, 214-749-7827. Lunch and dinner 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Newest of the food-as-entertainment glit-zoramas, a virtual museum of movie memorahilia: Bonnie and Clyde’s bullet-ridden getaway car; Dolly Panons best whorehouse outfit; Batman’s jumpsuit; life-size nearly nude replica of parr-owner Sylvester Stallone. Film clips are great. If you care, get in line. No reservations. Pi^a, pasta, burgers, bar. $

AMERICAN



THE PYRAMID ROOM AT THE FAIRMONT HOTEL 1717 North Akard at Ross, 214-720-5249. Lunch and dinner daily, dinner only Saturday and Sunday, brunch Sunday. Conde Nast Traveler readers ranked die Pyramid among the top five restaurants in Dallas (1/94). Extensive, pricey wine selection; the restaurant wins the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. Classic French dishes predominate in the regular menu, bur the daily specials are more eclectic: tilapia créole, monkfish with sunflower seeds, roast duck with cantaloupe. Most popular choices: lobster bisque, chunky crab cakes, rack of lamb. Signature dishes: Dover sole and beef ribeye. $$$

CONTINENTAL



SAMBUCA CAFE AND JAZZ BAR 2618 Elm, 214-744-0820. Monday to Friday lunch and dinner, late night Sunday to Wednesday, open to 1 a.m., Thursday to Saturday until 2 a.m.,closed holidays. Live jazz every night, enclosed terrace. Most popular dishes: salmon served over spinach and gorgonzola, spinach-tomato linguine with smoked chicken, shrimp and harissa, gnocchi with wild mushrooms, Couscous Manakesh. Thirty-something trendsurfers dock to this Deep Ellum spot. possibly for the food, which is exceptional. Open kitchen, pricy wine list. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



SONNY BRYAN’S 302 North Market, 214-744-1610. 2202 Inwood, 214-357-7120. 325 North Saint Paul, 214-979-0102. Plaza of the Americas, 214-871-2098. 4701 Frankford, 214-447-0102. Lunch and dinner. The best-known name in Dallas barbecue, huge portions of smokehouse meats: beef brisket, pork ribs, sausage, ham, pulled pork with traditional “sides.” For mini appetites, try a sandwich and two vegetables. Bottomless pits really get their moneys worth tor S16: a full collection of al I seven smokehouse meats or a dill side of ribs plus slaw, fries and a salad. $

BARBECUE



WALT GARRISON RODEO BAR AND GRILL Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce, 214-742-8200- Lunch and d inner. Closed only on selective holidays. Namesake owner is native-born rodeo and football star. Carnivorous tourists will enjoy the cowboy ambience, Writ-by-hand “Bubba Menu” features Cattle Baron’s steak, smoked barbecued ribs, even chicken fried steak, all in good fun. After all, this is the Adolphus. Appealing meal-size salads: grilled chicken greens with spicy noodles, cashews and honey-mustard dressing. $$

COWBOY



YEGUA CREEK BREWING COMPANY 2920 North Henderson, 214-824-BRHW. Lunch and dinner. One of this month’s featured restaurants; see “Southwest fare…” on pace 114. $

SOUTHWESTERN



Northwest



ADELMO’S 4537 Cole at Knox, 214-559-0325. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. You’ve never had veal until you’ve ordered Adelmo’s 20-ounce USDA prime veal chop with green peppercorns, priciest pick on an otherwise moderate menu. {You pay for the side of beef it could have Km!) Rack of lamb, lobster ravioli, crab cakes spiced with hot baissa and pesto, lamb sausage on couscous, gnocci with gorgonzola cream sauce, creme brulee for dessert. Fall feature: antelope, venison. Cuisine an artful blend or French. Italian, and middle Eastern. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



ANZU 4620 McKinney Avenue at Knox, 214-526-7398. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only on Saturday, closed Sunday. An East meets West menu featuring lemongrass-grilled shrimp with Bloody Mary gran i ta; rare seared tuna strip steak with wasabi mashed potatoes, jumbo scallops; salmon in a lotus leal with tomatillo-ginger sauce. Giant pot stickers with spmach-ricotta in kalian plum tomato sauce. Wonderful and trendy. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



ARCODORO BAR 2520 Cedar Springs at Fairmountand Routh, 214-871-1924. Lunch and dinner to midnight, (2 a.m. Friday and Saturday). Pomodoro’s little sister shares chefs Victor Onus and Salvatore Gisellu. who serve up thick pizzas, roast chicken from their wood oven, plus lots of vegetarian choices, and tiramisu for dessert. Latin music (at times loud) and Italian frescoes bring loyal following of locals and European ex-pats who eat late, Full bar. $

ITALIAN, NORTHERN



AVANTI RlSTORANTE 2720 McKinney at Worthington, 214-871-4955. Lunch and dinner daily; Thursday to Sunday midnight to4 a.m., live jazz and moonlight breakfast, $10 minimum. Pretty spot with white and turquoise tablecloths, flickering candles, lots of plants and flowers, soft jazz playing in the background. Covered patio with ceiling fans. At the McKinney Avenue trolley stop. Best bets: calamari, ceviche, spinach three-cheese lasagna. Fall: osso buco. Upcoming five-course Mediterranean style turkey dinner. At lunch, business crowd; dinnertime, couples and romantics. Late night, music lovers. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



BAY TREE GRILL Stouffer Hotel, 2222 Stemmons, 214-631-2222. Dinner. Rhapsodic menu of solid classics updated with trendy touches: red pepper Dijonnaise crowns the rack of lamb; the lobster is grilled with Caribbean spices; the swordfish is cloaked with “virgin tomato sauce.” Really? (It’s the olive oil that’s virgin; neither the fish nor the tomatoes have taken vows.) Prime pick: pork tenderloin spiced with barbecue corn sauce. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



BEAU NASH/THE CONSERVATORY Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple and McKinney, 214-871-3242. Breakfast, lunch and dinner 365 days. Sunday brunch. Classy brasserie, up-to-the-minute menu. On target for power breakfasts or exec lunches, late night jazz and weekend brunches, big band Sunday night. Yum,m,m,m: mustard-seared ahi tuna with black linguini-herbed mascarpone. That shellfish risotto with green curry, eggplant with Paula Lambert’s feta. Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$

INTERNATIONAL

BOB’S CHOP HOUSE 4300 Lemmon at Wycliff, 214-528-9446. Dinner, closed Sunday. L>srk wood and leather booths, while tablecloths, Frank Sinatra and Patsy Cline in the background. Most popular: filet mignon. Signature dish: cote d’boeuf. Bob’s brings business people on weekdays and special occasions. “Cigar friendly.” $$$

STEAK

BOMBAY CRICKET CLUB 2508 Maple across from Hotel Crescent Court, 214-871-1333. Lunch and dinner. Veddy British sporting decor, menu similar to India Palace. $

INDIAN

BUFFALO CLUB 2800 Routh, 214-220-2465. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only Saturday, closed Sunday and holidays. Another trendy spot tor culinary adventurers, where the menu may be worth the tradeoff in din. Red snapper on black bean chili, seared fresh tuna steak served rare, pan-fried buttermilk-breaded chicken, angel hair with grilled shrimp and tomato basil fondue. $$

ECLECTIC

BUGATTI’S ON BACHMAN CREEK 3802 West Northwest Highway at Marsh, 214-350-2470. Lunch and dinner weekdays until midnight, din ner only Saturday and Sunday, closed holidays. Contemporary Italian cuisine in a sleek and styl ish setting; pretend you’re in Bologna. Perfectly grilled, thick veal chops, lemon-dn22!ed fresh fish, imaginative pastas tossed with seafood, cooked on demand and served with cool proficiency. Just the ticket for a business lunch. Private rooms available. $$

ITALIAN

CAFE HIGHLAND PARK 69 Highland Park Village, Mockingbird and Preston, 214-521 -7300. Lunch and dinner, closed Monday. French, Italian, Mediterranean spices flavor the strong Middle-Eastern influences on the menu here: lamb over tabouli, salmon with a cilantro vinaigrette, tri-color linguine with lamb sausage. Favorites: Harira soup (lentil and garbanzo beans), vegetable terrine with goat cheese, Escargot Forestière, salmon carpaccio. Try the meal-si:e French green bean salad with smoked chicken. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

CAFE MADRID 4501 Travis, #133, at Armstrong, 214-528-3 731. Dinner six nights, closed Sunday. Very casual Spanish taverna serving home-style meals. Mamma’s in the kitchen dishing up real Spanish omelets (flat potato frittata), marinated beef on skewers, octopus vinaigrette, clams in wine sauce. For fall: rabbit in onion sauce, roast leg of lamb, veal stew. Check the blackboard; no menu. With a stand-up tapas bar and al frescodin-ing, you’ll swear you’re in Spain. Ole! $

SPANISH

CAFE MARGAUX 4242 Lomo Alto at Lemmon, 214-520-1985. Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday; Sunday brunch. Veteran restaurateur Kay Agnew has settled into the voluptuous setting formerly occupied by the Belvedere, wisely keepingsome of its classics while putting a stylish spin on her own Commander’s Palace-type refinement of Cajun-Creole. All the traditional dishes plus salmon with dill, beer-battered snapper in lemon-caper butter, Veal Forestière with brandied wild mushrooms. $$

NEW ORLEANS TRADITIONAL

CAFE PACIFIC 24 Highland Park Village at Preston and Mockingbird, 214-526-1170. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Loyal locals come for the fresh seafood, notably hot smoked salmon with sesame spinach and Pommery mustard sauce, succulent shrimp crunched with orange pepper, perfectly grilled catch of the day with a selection of sauces. Indulgent desserts. White tablecloths, fresh flowers, marble floors, original art, gentle music. Well-selected, fairly-priced wine list. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



CAFE PANDA 7979 Inwood at Lovers, 214-902-9500. Lunch and dinner. Spicy Szechuan dishes and other favorites including Peking duck, quail, hearty Hunan beet, tangy seafood chowder, sweet and sour tangerine beet. Tableside coffee and tea ceremonies, fried ice cream, classical music, pink tablecloths, and excellent service make this a pleasant dining experience. Gourmet takeout and fax orders for nearby delivery. $

CHINESE

CALLUAUD’S 5405 West Lovers Lane at Inwood, 214-352-1997. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Smoking permitted only in bar area. Innovative “Gourmet Léger” menu offers terrine of pheasant and vegetables, fresh ravioli with wild mushrooms, eggplant caviar style wrapped in smoked salmon, veal tenderloin coated with fresh herbs and roasted with feta and sundried tomatoes, boneless quail on baked apples and pilaf. For tall there’s classic (non-“leger”) cassoulet. Favorites: lobster souffle, rabbit, sweetbreads, escargot, classic onion soup. Wonderfully presented rack of lamb, Dover sole. $$$

FRENCH



CARRELLI’S RISTORANTE 12219 Coit at LBJ and Forest, 214-386-7931. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday and holidays. Decor: Ristorante baroque. Roman columns, fountains, chandeliers, gold leaf, enough to stage a Godfather movie wedding. Yes, they do wedding parties with practiced precision from antipasto freddi to zuppa inglesa. Veal from picatta to parmi-giana; 13 pasta permutations predictably sauced, layered or filled; a cioppino that emptied our the Mediterranean. Low-cost wines. $$

ITALIAN



CELEBRATION 4503 West Lovers between Inwood and Lemmon, 214-351-5681. Lunch and dinner, closed holidays. Real home cookin’ served family-style in a big of house (actually three old houses, merged). Hearty down-home fare: chicken fried steak, fried catfish, pot roast, country vegetable plate. Specialties: “Chicken St. Caroline” (grilled breast, mushrooms and mozzarella), hot fruit cobbler, New York-style cheesecake. $

HOME COOKING



CHEZ GERARD 4444 McKinney at Knox, 214-522-6865. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Cozy, softly lit, romantic Paris bistro atmosphere. Fresh flowers, soft music, rose-patterned tablecloths, candles, patio seating in nice weather. Most popular: “Tournedos Felix Faure” (black peppercorn mushrooms and cream sauce). Also on the menu: rabbit, veal, liver, sweetbreads. Moderately priced French and California wines. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY

CITY CAFE 5757 West Lovers Lane, 214-351-2233. Bustling, unpretentious bistro offering polished take on new American cuisine with French and Mediterranean touches. Wine Spectator GreatWine List Award. $$

AMERICAN

CRYSTAL PAGODA RESTAURANT 4516 Mc-Kinney, 214-526-3355. Lunch and dinner.Alove-ly setting with food to match, including a splendid selection of spicy Szechuan dishes. $$$

CHINESE

DELI NEWS 500 Crescent Court at Maple/Cedar Springs, 214-922-3354. 15775 Hillcrest at Arapaho, 214-392-3354- Breakfast, lunch and dinner; to 2 a.m. Saturday night; closed Sunday night. Homesick New Yawkers can quit kvetch-ing; here’s their pastrami fix. Also corned beef, chopped liver, nova, and die best smoked white-fish since I stood in line at Wolfie’s in Miami. Plus latkes, blint:es, kreplach, piroshki, even chicken .soup, the kind that cures colds. Complete with cutesy sandwich names and real bagels, even bialys (a kind of soft bagel without the hole). $

DELI

8.0 BAR AND RESTAURANT 2800 Routh, 214-979-0880, Dallas. HI East Third at Commerce, Sundance Square, Fort Worth, 817-336-0880. Ocho quesadillas with spinach and mushrooms. “Mas Chicken Salad,” with halsamic sun-dried tomato vinaigrette, veggie enchiladas,.chipotle chili made with Shiner Bock beer, sweet jerk chicken. Too much? ’Try the “Green Plate” (vegetarian). Quirky cuisine; it’s mix of Cajun/Creole, Southwest, Tex-Mex, Italian and much more. $

ECLECTIC



ENIGMA 2515 McKinney at Routh, 214-953-1111. Dinner only. Open to 2:30 a.m., closed Sunday, major holidays. Here’s the enigma: 800 different plates, 22 different menus, 60 different entrees. How do they do it? You can even reserve your favorite tableware (mine would be the Baccarat crystal). Call and request something special, like the pan-seared emu or ostrich or buffalo. Or something easy like venison, pheasant quail, duck, lamb. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



EUREKA! 4011 Villanova, 214-369-7767. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. Sunday 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Right in tune with the times, this sleekly stylized cafe has a crisp black and white color scheme and a high flavor, low-fat Pan-Cultural menu that’s garnering rave reviews everywhere. Try veggie “Eureka !bobs” or the “Eureka!Wrappers”: Armenian bread rollups. Prices are as low as die calories. There’s no wine, so you can even B.Y.O.B. $

NEW AMERICAN



EWALD’S IN THE STONELEIGH HOTEL 2927 Maple at Wolf, 214-871-2523. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner 565 days. Celebrating 25 years, Swiss-schooled Dusseldorf native Ewald Scholz is oui longest-running chef. Still trying parsley, he’s totally fed-proof. Come with us now back in time, where Fettuccine Alfredo is listed as “lighter fare” and the menu promises “Tornedos St. Moritz.” Veal Oscar, Vichyssoise, white asparagus and fish a la “Bonne Femme,” “Chateaubriand Bouquetière Sauce Béarnaise,” “Swiss Raclette” with cornichons and new potatoes. Where do you find food you can capitalize these days’ $$

CONTINENTAL



GASPAR’S 4900 McKinney at Monticello, 214-528-5100. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday. Chef-owner Caspar Stantic, the namesake of this and the other Caspar’s, achieves new culinary heights. With refined execution and luxuriant touches, the menu varies with the season: squab rests with wild mushroom pirogi; the yel-lowtin tuna is pan-seared with rare morel and crepes and served in a Merlot sauce; tenderloin is sauteed with earthy porcini, garnished with spinach gnocchi. Thick veal chops come with Tuscan bean salad anointed with 50-year-old balsamic vinegar, the real thing. The wine list boasts suitable companions. Strode) desserts, deftly made, are a specialty. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



GERSHWIN’S BAR & GRILL 8442 Walnut Kill at Greenville, 214-373-7171. Lunch and dinner. White tablecloths, oil lamps, fresh flowers on every table, die romatic tinkle of the piano, stylish samplings for appetizers, an au courant menu: tenderloin with garlic-whipped potatoes, blackened salmon, grilled yellowfin tuna with avocado cilantro sauce, snapper en papillote, “Beggar’s Purse” filled with lobster and shrimp in a creamy bisque. Trendy pizzas and pastas. Popular Sunday brunch; outdoor dining in good weather. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



GOING GOURMET 4345 West Northwest Highway at Midway, 214-351-6773- Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. This is die little gourmet takeout shop that grew. But not much; it’s still tiny. Now it’s a popular bistro with an eclectic menu: Mediterranean, California influence. Pizzas and pastas are popular. Best loved: angel-hair pasta with crawfish and artichokes in a lemon pepper-based sauce. Or penne tossed with gorgonzola, spinach, and walnuts, paella with lobster. For the fall they feature game with wild mushrooms, osso buco and polenta, three cheese risotto, 1/2-pound pork rack chop with Venetian tomato sauce, balsamic vinegar, and fresh veggie pasta. B.Y.O.B. ($2.50corkage, $ 10 minimum per person). Pretty setting with candles and fresh flowers. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



HARD ROCK CAFE 2601 McKinney at Routh, 214-855-0007. Lunch and dinner, 365 days. Original of the food-as-theme-park establishments, still going strong. Rock ’n’ roll memorabilia from the ’50s to the ’90s, people-watching, and, oh yes, they do serve food: “Tennessee pulled pork sandwich,” burgers, grilled fajitas; vegetarian garden burger. $

AMERICAN



HARRY’S AMERICAN BAR-B-QUE 3910 Maple at Oak Lawn, 214-522-4433. Lunch and dinner, open to 1 a.m. Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday. Austin-style beer garden/BBQ-shack features ribs, (pronounced rih-yubs), smoked turkey, brisket, Harriette’s not-quite-famous Oak Cliff potato salad, custom smoked meats. Ham’ lists himself as “king “/chef and describes his clien-tele as “blue collar, lawyers, admen, computer dweebs, doctors and nurses, interior decorators.” No nonsmoking section. Live R&B, C&W Wednesday to Saturday nights. $

BBQ



HOFSTETTER’S 3840 West Northwest Highway, #400, at Marsh and Midway, 214-358-7660. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Classic Beef Wellington, weiner schnitzel, jager (veal) schnitzel, veal Zurich, bratwurst are the standbys. Fall brings game: pheasant, wild boar, venison, and rabbit. For vegetarians there’s a richly indulgent vegetable platter with spaetzle (then follow it with Viennese pastries). Forest green tablecloths, French windows, lots of plants make this a lunchtime favorite with senior male execs during the week. Other times, a mix of families and couples. (Kindermenu for children.) $$

GERMAN



HOTEL ST. GERMAIN 2516 Maple at McKinney, 214-871-2516. Dinner Friday and Saturday with reservations and other nights for private parties. What a romantic setting: soft classical music, candlelight, French damask napery, lavender roses, crystal chandeliers sparkle from 14-foot ceilings. In nice weather there’s a walled New Orleans-style courtyard. It’s the perfect place Co indulge on crab custard and creamy bisques, fresh seafood. They claim to serve the best potatoes in Dallas. Regular clientele, mostly local prosperous business people who appreciate the polished old world service- Special prix fixe dinner for s6 5 arranged specially in advance. $$$

FRENCH NOUVELLE



INDIA PALACE 12817 Preston, #105, 214-392-0190. Lunch and dinner. Tandoori lamb and chicken, curried lobster, shrimp vindaloo, crisp vegetable samosas (fried patties), chicken tikka masala-all fire and spice! Wonderful vegetable dishes: saag paneer (homemade fresh cheese chunks in a creamy spiced spinach mixture) and kashmiri kufta (fresh vegetables and cheese in dumplings ). Authentic desserts include gajar (carrot) halwa. Indian breads arrive hot and puffy or crisp and fragile. Same menu at sister restaurant: Bombay Cricket Club. $

INDIAN



JAVIER’S RESTAURANTE MEXICANO & CAN-TINA 4912 Cole at Monticello, 214-521-4211. Dinner, closed holidays and Christmas-New Year’s week. Colonial Mexico decor: plant?, flowers, candies. Soft jazz and Bosa Nova music background. Mexico City upscale menu borrows from continental cuisine: Filete Cantinflas (beef tenderloin stuffed with Chihuahua cheese, then topped with chile and avocado). Or Barro de Navidad jumbo shrimp tucked into a spicy orange /tomato sauce. Cabrito fajitas are a winner. $$BR>MEXICAN-CONTINENTAL



JENNIVINE 3605 McKinney at Lemmon, 214-528-6010. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. If they had beds and served breakfast, this could be a F3&B: Olde English ambience in restored turn-of-the-century home nestled in a traditional garden where Jenni picks herbs. It you think Brit food is boring, sample Jenni’s roast duckling with mangos and homemade marmalade. Relishes, salsa, fruit vinegars, chutneys simmer in the kitchen, sell well in the shop. $$

ENGLISH



JUNIPER RESTAURANT 2917 Fairmount at Cedar Springs, 214-855-0700. Dinner only closed Sunday and Monday. French country inn ambience. Imagine you’re in Provence while you savor sunny flavors in such dishes as herb-infused rack of lamb, rosemary -scented chicken, pheasant breast with wild mushrooms and Madeira pepper sauce, grilled tuna with pistachios and sun-dried tomato butler. Tire menu even includes vichys-soise, the classic potato soup. Decide early and order a souffle. Nice wine list features many French finds for tew francs. Outdoor dining available. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY



LANDMARK AT THE MELROSE HOTEL 301 5 Oak Lawn at Cedar Springs, 214-522-1451 Breakfast, lunch, and dinner six days; Sunday breakfast and brunch only, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. The menu features “fusion” creativity, the mix of Asia and the Americas. Wildly creative dishes intense with flavor. Examples: lobster tacos with orange chipotle butter, macadamia nut-crusted scallops with pasta shells anointed with basil-saffron oil. Most popular: smoked chicken, masa soup, Texas crab cakes with corn sauce. Extensive wine list moderately priced. Weekday gathering place of the “power breakfast” corps. On Sunday the brunch is very popular. Special Thanksgiving menu upcoming. Fall: venison and game. $$

AMERICAN



LAURELS RESTAURANT Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit Drive at Coit and LBJ, 214-851 -2021. Dinner 365 days. Lighter, healthierfare with flair and flavor. Chef David Reardon’s imaginative menus have a southwestern kick in such dishes as lobster-shrimp black enchiladas, Texas antelope. Came for game? Call about the price-fixed $35 game dinner. Special menu Thanksgiving day. 20th floor view of North Dallas. Piano lounge, $$

NEW AMERICAN



LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB 3008 Maple at Carlisle and Wolf, 214-521’7777. Lunch and dinner (no lunch on Saturday), Sunday brunch, closed Christmas. Edwardian English dining room with brass chandeleirs, unique dome ceiling. There are potted palms, fresh flowers, silver dining carts, all geared to make you feel pampered and privileged. The bar is like an upscale co:y pub. Prime rib, thick steaks and enormous hand-carved roast beet sandwiches are the main features. Too busy to dine? You can even get take out or evening delivery. II you save room for dessert, it should he the English trifle with strawberries. Winner of the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award, Lawry’s boasts an extensive list that’s moderately priced. Upcoming on the schedule: Thanksgiving turkey with alt trimmings, wine dinners, Christmas carolers. $$

STEAK



LOMA LUNA CAFE S2C1 Preston, 214-691-1552. Lunch and dinner. One of this month’s featured restaurants; see “Southwest fare…” on page 114. $

SOUTHWESTERN



THE MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK 2821 Turtle Creek, 214-559-2100. Lunch and dinner. One of this month’s featured restaurants; see “Southwest fare…” on page 114. $$$

SOUTHWESTERN



MATTITO’S CAFE MEXICANO 431 1 Oak Lawn, #100,atHcrsche1,214-526-8181. Lunch and dinner, closed Thankgiving and Christinas. Upscale casual fiesta decor. Lovely bar, covered patios, private catering, heart-healthy low-tat vegetarian dishes, veggie fajitas, beet tenderloin chicken fajitas, fat-free cowboy beans. Most popular: chile rel-lenos stuffed with jack cheese, raisins and Texas pecans. Kiddie menu. $

TEX-MEX



MlA’S 4322 Lemmon at Wycliff, 214-526-1020. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and major holidays. Mia, short for “Mama Mia” (my momma), co-owns this Dallas standard with her sons; Chef Butch and Manager Paul. $

TEX-MEX



MOMO’S ITALIAN SPECIALTIES 3300 Preston Center Plaza at Northwest Highway, 214-987-2082.9191 Forest, 214-234-6800. Lunch and dinner. Opened earlier this year, Preston Center location is an upscale version of Monro’s original Forest Avenue hole-in-the-wall. Stylish, open kitchen, brick and stone walls displaying pre-Columbian art, a dining room with tablecloths, plus an erudite 16-page menu that reads like a crash course in culinary history. We learn that (he appetiser hresaola “finds its origin in Valtellim, refuge of the Lombards during the invasion of Charles the Great.” (The Lombard used horsemeat, but Memo’s uses filet of beef, thinly sliced, seasoned with olive oil, lemon and pepper.) A true treasure tor those in search of authentic Italian, and you can B.Y.O.B. $$

ITALIAN TRADITIONAL



NANA CRIIL. LOEWS ANATOLE HOTEL, 2201 Stemmons at Market Center, 214-761-7479. Lunch and dinner seven nights, Saturday dinner only. Sunday brunch. Now orchestrated by Paul Pinnell, formerly of J Pinnell. Victorian setting: rose tablecloths, glowing oil lamps, African violets, strolling violinists. Named for the nude portrait in the bar, Nana offers food that’s every bit as appealing. Venison with wild blackberry sauce, pork chops with green posole, pecan-crusted double lamb chops, veal crowned with woodland mushrooms. Sumptuous desserts; “millionaire’s pie” (baked Alaska and bernes in a crust) and key lime creme brulee. Call for wine dinner schedule. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



NATURA CAFE 2909 McKinney at Howell, 214-855-5483. Breakfast Saturday and Sunday, lunch and dinner every day, closed holidays. High energy, environment-conscious, fun atmosphere. Go see the I0-foot-tall faux asparagus forest in lieu of a palm tree. Bar with fireplace; open-style kitchen in the dining room. Most popular; red snapper tacos, chicken penne pasta, smoked tomato sauce, ahi ground tunaburger on kaiser roll, shrimp with black beans. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



OLD WARSAW 2610 Maple, 234-528-0032. Dinner .seven nights. Continental dining the way you remember it: lush surroundings, hushed service, menus en Francaise, the twinkle of candles and diamonds, the scent of flowers and Joy. Carts glide rahleside as salads are tossed, various viandes are flambeed, crepes are jubileed. There’s foie gras and caviar, steak tartare and “Salade Cesar.” (The only intrusion on your reverie is the updat-ed price list.) Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$$

CONTINENTAL

PARIGI 3311 Oak Lawn at Hall, 214-521 -0295. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday .and Monday. Upscale bistro with marble rabies, fresh flowers, open kitchen. The kind of menu that sounds appealing and healthy at the same time: whole wheat fusilli with herbs and feta in a red pepper sauce, chive-mushroom fettucini with chicken, crimini mushrooms and corn in a ginger-lime cream sauce. Then there’s tri-color linguine with shrimp, yellow tomatoes, sugar snap peas and basil pesto. Most popular: tenderloin with coarsegrained mustard and roasted “shallot-smashed potatoes.” Fun first course: make-your-own-pizzettas (mini pizzas). Limited wine list. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



PASTA PLUS 17194 Preston, Suite 150, at Royal, 214-713-7181. 225 Preston Royal East, 214-373-3999. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Italian bistro with a gourmet take-out shop specializing in fresh pastas, all prepared exclusively with olive oil, fresh ingredients and no preservatives, no tomato paste, roux, or thickening agents-Breads, desserts, and low-fat sausages made on premises. There’s also an alternative “light” menu that trims fat and calories by substituting skim milk cheeses, less oil. Does this sound like denial: eggplant florentine with grilled polenta? $

ITALIAN



PATRIZIO 25 Highland Park Village at Preston, 214-355-8844. 1900 Preston Park Boulevard at Preston and Park, 214-964-2 200. Lunch and dinner, closed holidays. Original art, tile floors, oriental rugs, marble tables, fresh flowers on the mantel over the fireplace. Charming outdoor patio at Highland Park location. Don’t till up on the pep-peroni bread, you need room for baked ziti or tiramisu. Updated pasta and pizza plays to a crowd at these yuppie feeding grounds. $

ITALIAN



PEGGY SUE BBQ 6600 Snider Plaza at Damels/Hillcrest, 214-987-9188. Lunch and dinner, The local favorite. Lean, smokey brisket, meaty baby back ribs glazed with brown sugar, juicy melt-in-your-mouth chicken pink from the smoke, southern squash casserole, new potato salad, veggies steamed with lemon butter, com plain and simple. The chicken fried steak is battered in buttermilk; pinto beans are fresh, not canned. If there’s no tomorrow, try Texas Torpédos: cream cheese-filled, breaded, deep fat-fried jalapenos, or the fried pie, or peach cobbler in cinnamon batter. Club membership required tor drinks. $

BARBECUE



PLANET CAFE 6106 Luther at Preston and Northwest Highway, 214-368-2456. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Featured recently in Vegetarian Times magazine, this meatless cafe is smoke-free. Really creative combina-tions. Most popular: portobello mushroom fajitas, pasta aglio e olio with sundried tomatoes, dosa (crepes), cajun-blackened eggplant, zucchini thermador, spinach-mushroom enchiladas, black bean chili, felafel pita, vegetable “Sloppy Joe,” grilled portobello steaks. Fitness crowd, more women than men. Special fall and Thanksgiving menus, kids’ menu. High-tech look; cool jazz sounds; B.Y.O.B. $

VEGETARIAN

POMODORO 2520 Cedar Springs at Fairmont and Routh, 214-871-1924. Lunch and dinner week-nights, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. Northern and regional Italian; dean, white tiled interior, yellow tablecloths, paintings by Sardinian artist, modern Italian music. Fans rave about the bruschetta, signature pastas, the risotto made with buffalo mozzarella. $$

ITALIAN



POPOLOS CAFE 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center at Preston and Royal, 214-692-5497. Lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch. Smoking only at the bar. This is the comfortable sort or place where you could happily eat every night: white tablecloths, candlelight, fresh roses on each table, quiet jazz at low level, original paintings, and the kind of food you never tire of. For a pretty perch, nestle into the heated/cooled screened sun porch built around a huge tree. Chef Mark Gonzales shows his Napa Valley roots in his able version of Italian nuova cueina with lors or low-rat, low-cholesterol entrees. Many enticing vegetarian dishes, too. Try the extra hot and spicy “pizza for the brave,” or meatless lasagna with wood-fire grilled vegetables. Most popular dish: angel-hair pasta with shrimp. Festive for fall: mushroom risotto. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



QUADRANGLE GRILL 2800 Routh, 214-979-9022. Lunch and dinner. Sunday hrunch. Good selection of wines by the glass, including Texas wines. Smoke-free at lunch. Grazer’s paradise: wonderful jalapeno corn bread, trendy pizzas on homemade herbed focaccia bread (smoked chicken, spinach, pine nuts, red onion and goat cheese). Great grilled vegetables served over rosemary fet-tucine. Coffee bar with latte includes Thai-iced espresso (steamed with sugared milk and topped with foam). $

AMERICAN



THE RIVIERA 7709 Inwood, 214-351-0094-Dinner only. Smoke tree. The Riviera continues to flag down awards with its practiced rendition of classics: updated rack of lamb with chutney, escargots with tortelloni, quail and polenta. It’s one of the top five l>allas restaurants according to readers of Conde Nast Traveler. It’s also won the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$$

FRENCH/ITALIAN



RODIZIO’S RESTAURANT 2621 McKinney, 214-740-9970. Lunch and dinner. A real Rio-style restaurant with authentic dishes. The place to try feijoada, Brand’s national dish, a casserole of black beans, bacon, pork, sausage and other fresh meats garnished with rice, collard greens, peppers, and orange. Or come lor “churrasco,” all-you-can-eatrotisserie of meats: steak, pork loin, honey-cured ham, smoked sausage and chicken, served with beans and rice, fried yucca and polenta, Then plan on clearing a field. $$

BRAZILIAN



RODOLFO’S ITALIAN AND SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 5956 Royal -at Preston, 214-368-5039. Lunch and dinner. Hearty hut heart-healthy low-fat main courses list calorie counts. Many vegetarian choices, including spinach ricotta dumplings (“meatless meatballs”). Outdoor dining in good weather. Namesake Rodolfo and brother Renato Sperandeo celebrating 11 years. Limited, reasonable wine list. $$

ITALIAN/” ITAL-LITE”

ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 5858 West Northwest Highway, 214-265-0770- 4535 Belt Line, Addison, 214-386-3831. 700 Highway 114, Grapevine, 817-481-1339. 1670 West 1-20, (South) Arlington, 817-784-1197. 2019 1-30, (North) Arlington, 817-261-6676. Lunch and dinner. Popular open kitchen with everyone’s favorites, freshly made. Busy, bright ami hustling. Tables covered with butcher paper, ftesh-cutglad-iolas. Opera singers, festive Italian atmosphere, oak-burning ovens. People flock here tor the big portions, good values. Limited, inexpensive wine list. Most popular: scaloppini di polio (chicken cutlet), seafood risotto. Fall: veal osso buco, lasagna made with sun-dried tomatoes. $

ITALIAN



THE RUSSIAN ROOM 500 Hotel Crescent Court, 214-922-1354 or 214-922-3333. Dinner. Closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. A surprising treasure upstairs over the deli. First-class Russian restaurant serving shashlik, stroganoff, chicken Kiev, traditional herring with dill potatoes, stuffed potatoes, stuffed cabbage, homemade blinis rolled in salmon roe or caviar. Live entertainment, imperial surroundings, food fit for a Czar. $$$

EASTERN EUROPEAN



RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE 5922 Cedar Springs at Inwood, 214-902-8080. Dinner only, closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Most popular: cornfed steaks. Signature: shrimp rémoulade, Bl^Q shrimp. Yes, there is a vegetable platter, even though it’s not on menu. Business and professional people, special celebrations. This is the home of serious steaks. Country French building overlooks meandering stream, Upholstered antique church pews in the oak bar: white tablecloths and brass candles with frosted shades in the dining room; 1,200 Kittles of wine on view behind an arch foretell an extensive wine list. $$$

STEAK



S & D OYSTER COMPANY 2701 McKinney at Boll, 214-880-0111, Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday, holidays. Southern gulf coast and New Orleans style seafood; red-checked tablecloths. Casual, hustling oyster bar with freshest seafood, thick and steamy gumbo, fresh fish simply broiled to perfection. $$

SEAFOOD



SFUZZI 2504 McKinney at Fairmount, 214-871-2606 (Chef Steve Singer). 15101 Addison at Belt Line, Addison, 214-960-2606 (Chef Kevin Ascolese). 2408 Preston at Park, Suite 704, 214-964-0700 (Chef Dan Drayer). Lunch and dinner every day, brunch on Sunday, closed Christmas. Pizzas from wood burning oven, lush raviolis plump with smoked chicken, tagliatelle in gorgonzola cream. Fall Pasta Festival dishes, seasonal features. Frozen Sfuzzi (a frosted bellini). Inexpensive wine list. The available and semi-available begin Gathering at the bar immediately alter work in search of Mr. Right or Ms. Right Now. $$

ITALIAN



SIPANGO 4513 Travis, 214-522-2411. Lunch and dinner. It it looks like, sounds tike, tastes like every trendy California hot spot you’ve ever lined up lor (even the name sounds like several restaurants rolled into one), it’s because Sipango is theon-tar-get brainchild of restaurant creator Keith Jones. His companies have had a hand in Fog City Diner, Mustards, Boulevard and Buffalo Grill. Even it you feed on attention, you’ll still enjoy the imaginative menu. $$

CALIFORNIA/ITALIAN



STAR CANYON RESTAURANT 3102 Oak Lawn, #144, at Cedar Springs, 214-520-7827. Lunch and dinner. This month’s featured restaurant; see “A couple of ’tough customers’ check out Pyles’s new digs,” on page 110. $$

SOUTHWESTERN



TANA 3701 West Northwest Highway, #173, at Webbs Chapel, 214-350-3234. Lunch and dinner seven days, late night to 2 a.m. and live entertainment Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Even confirmed chiliheads can be challenged by searingly spiced Ethiopian cuisine, but at Tana they’ll tame it for the tender tongued. Dora wot is a curry-like chicken mixture served on the traditional “injera” bread, a spongy sourdough crepe. Traditionally, you tear off pieces and use it as a carrier. Vegetable dishes are great. “Greens” like kale hint at the African tie with down-home southern veggies. Italian, American or Middle Eastern foods are served too, for the timid. Ethiopian entertainment. $

ETHIOPIAN



TONY’S WINE WAREHOUSE AND BISTRO 2904 Oak Lawn at Gillespie, 214-520-WINE. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. What better surroundings for a wine lover! Candles, flowers, white tablecloths, classical music. Simple bistro fare, beautifully executed: filet mignon with brandy and peppercorns, spicy shrimp on pasta, catch of the day simply grilled, redolent garlic soup. Creme brulee tor dessert. Waiters are multilingual; foreign travelers frequent the place in search of wine buys. Wine classes. $$

FRENCH BISTRO



UNCLE JULIO’S 4125 Lemmon at Douglas, 214-520-6620. Lunch and dinner, closed Christmas. Traditional hacienda style; portions large enough to feed the entire village. Mesquite-grilled meats and poultry, cabrito, fajitas, spicy ribs, quail among the favorites, served with freshly made tortillas (they make their own). Signature dish: Plato Gordo (literally “fat plate,” be forewarned). Extensive plants and landscaping; festive (read: loud) atmosphere. $

MEXICAN



WATEL’S 1923 McKinney at Harwood, 214-720-0323. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner only weekends, closed holidays. Southern France is the inspiration for many of the dishes chef-owner Rene Peeters offers at this charming bistro. Fresh fish flawlessly grilled, hearty bean dishes, herb-scented lamb, rabbit, game and seasonal choices, even the organ meats beloved by the French hut hard to find in American restaurants. $$

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN



4217 Oak Lawn, 214-522-8720. Lunch and dinner six days, Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Appealing, eclectic new American menu to complement a great selection of wines by the glass in a charmer of a setting. $$

BISTRO



YAMAGUCHI’S BAR AND SUSHI 7713 Inwood at Lovas, 214-350-8660. The sushi’s perfectly prepared, but there’s a lot more to sample: wonderful, rosy salmon flash-seared and served in a ginger-spiked lime baste, marinated duck fragrant with brandy and apricot essense, pork with an Asian pear filling, all artistically presented. $$

JAPANESE



ZIZIKI’S RESTAURANT AND BAR 4514 Travis Walk at Armstrong, 214-521-2233. Lunch and dinner until midnight, closed Sunday. Cross a Greek diner with a Sbho-style bistro and a trendy wine bar, throw in some Italian blood and a Hawaiian upbringing and here’s what you get: Chef Costa Arabatzis’s eatery. Fad-free fusion that scours the Mediterranean and Aegean for inspiration, then lightens up on the oil. All your Greek favorites plus pasta originals. Open kitchen with Italian tile hand-crafted bar. $

MEDITERRANEAN



Northeast



AL DENTE CAFE 1920 Greenville, 214-821 -6054. Bargain neighborhood place with the kind of Italian tare you remember (even to the prices). Mussels and calamari, veal cacciatore, baked ziti, Gamberoni Fra Diavola. Got the picture? When you’re in the mood for candle-in-a-Chianti-bot-tle-cuisine, this place won ’t disappoint. Lovely oak bar, intimate dining. $

ITALIAN



ARANSAS PASS CAFE 2912 North Henderson at Central Expressway, 214-827-8650. DinnerTues-day through Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday, 6-11 p.m. Fresh gulf seafood and Texas-style dishes star: honey-jalapeno glazed pork loin a winner! Or, sweet corn chile relleno, Thai-style tuna taco, Maine lobster with sea scallops. Sweet indulgences: “Beeville Honey”: cinnamon-dusted tortilla with home-made ice cream; sauteed bananas with strawberries. Owners met working at Four Seasons. Great patio; weekends live music. $

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



CAFFE PAPARAZZI 8989 Forest at Greenville, 214-644-1323. Lunch and dinner, closed holidays. Contemporary black and white decor softened with tropical foliage and oil lamps; soft Mediterranean music. Specialties: lamb, seafood, and pasta nova. Most popular: spinach mushroom asparagus lasagna. Vegetarians rejoice! Luscious gnocchi and canneloni, too. Lunchtime favorite of nearby medics. Outdoors on nice days. Full bar, booths. $$

ITALIAN, NUOVA CUCINA



CARIB-B 2012 Greenville, 214-824-3395. Lunch and dinner.You’11 imagine soft breezes, swaying palms and pounding surf when you sample jerk chicken, fresh fish, and goat prepared in the island manner. $

CARIBBEAN



CHAPLIN’S 1928 Greenville, 214-823-3300. Dinner seven nights. Northern Italian with new American sensibilities: freshly-made pastas, rack of lamb, inviting desserts in an amiable setting. $

ITALIAN, NORTHERN



GERSHWIN’S BAR & GRILL 8442 Walnut Hilt at Greenville, 214-373-7171. Lunch and dinner. White tablecloths, oil lamps, fresh flowers on ever\’ table, the romatic tinkle of the piano, stylish samplings for appetizers, an au courant menu: tenderloin with garlic-whipped potatoes, blackened salmon, grilled yellow-tin tuna with avocado cilantro sauce, snapper en papillote, “Beggar’s Puree” filled with lobster and shrimp In a creamy bisque. Trendy pn:as and pastas. Popular Sunday brunch; outdoor dining in good weather. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



KOKOPELLI BY VIA REAL 9090 Sklilman, Suite 158A, at Audelia, 214-503-0242. Lunch and dinner; closed holidays. One of this month’s featured testaurants; see “Southwest fare…” on page 114.$$ SOUTHWESTERN/MEXICAN



MARTINI’S 2013 Greenville, 214-821-3660. Dinner seven nights. Chef Burke Sanders, formerly of Saint Martins and City Cafe, combines southwest influences with Italian style and American health consciousness, creating a uniquely appealing mix at moderate prices. Try smoked salmon with fettuccini, pork medallions with black beans and feta, chicken with orzo rice-shaped pasta and mango glaze or tortilla-crusted tilapia fish with posole and pico de gallo. Named for 31 martini variations. $$

ECLECTIC



MATT’S RANCHO MARTINEZ 6312 La Vista Drive at Gaston, 214-823-5517. Lunch and dinner, closed Monday. Busy, popular place puts a healthy new spin on old standards: flautas are grilled, cowboy beans are fat-free. “Lite” fajitas, even all-veggie fajitas. Bur then there’s buttennilk-battered chicken fried steak, frog’s legs, chile rellenos stuffed with beef, chicken, shrimp, or vegetables, plus Texas pecans, raisins, and jack cheese. $

MEXICAN



PINOT’S WINE BAR AND CAFE 2926 North Henderson, 214-826-1949. Dinner. Small spot; interesting wines by the glass. Limited $32.50 price-fixed menu includes a bottle of house wine married to such choices as roast lamb, herbed swordfish, chicken Sanra Fe or Pork Marchand de Vin (includes soup, salad and dessert). Call for wine dinner schedule. $$

ECLECTIC



PREGo PASTA HOUSE 4930 Greenville, 214-363-9204. Lunch and dinner weekdays and Sunday, no lunch Saturday. Every kind of pasta dish plus spaghetti house standbys: chicken piccata, veal parmigiana, pepper steak, but no seafood except crab claws and scampi. $

SOUTHERN ITALIAN



RISTORANTE SAVINO 2929 North Henderson, 214-826-7804. Dinner every night- Closed major holidays. Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Savino welcomes with attentive, generous service; entices with wonderful veal dishes, saddle of lamb with fresh herbs, and other creations of chef Chris Svalesen, CIA grad, previously at Bronx 11 Restaurant. Most popular: lasagna with bay scallops, escargot, angel-hair pasta with lobster sauce, focacciapugliese, farfalle with smoked salmon and vodka. Italian ice creams made daily. One of the best grappa selections in the area; somewhat pricey wine list. $$

ITALIAN



ROYAL TOKYO 7525 Greenville, 214-368-3304. Lunch and dinner, Sunday buffet 11:30 a.m. to Z:3Qp.m. Authentic sushi bar, the largest in Texas. Tatamiroom offers kimono-clad servers in the traditonal manner (wells for your feet; no need to sit cross- legged!) Hibachi food cooked at your table. Big draws: Black Angus beef, the karaoke bar. Extensive, well-written menu explains cuisine and customs to Westerners. $$

JAPANESE



SAN FRANCISCO ROSE 3024 Lower Greenville at Monticello, 214-826-2020. Lunch and dinner, late night to 2 a.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., complimentary buffet Monday to Friday, 4 p.m.-7p.m. Grandaddy of the Dallas sports bars; daily happy hour, 4 p.m.-? p.m. Trophy room for sports fans; patio for outdoor dining in nice weather. $

SPORTS BAR



SINBAD’S PALACE 9220 Skillman, 214-340-4445. Sunday to Friday lunch, dinner every night. Fragrant spices and the scent of lemon, garlic and herbs make Middle Eastern food so appealing. Try baba ghanouj, the dip made of roasted eggplant and sesame paste, or hummus (chickpea dip), Feta cheese pies, stuffed grape leaves, shish kebab, stuffed roasted veggies, couscous and baklava for dessert. Entertainment on weekends. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN



ST. MARTIN’S WINE BISTRO 3020 Greenville, 214-826-0940. Lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch. Extensive selection of wines by the glass, moderately priced, to pair with such elegantly-executed entrees as shrimp and scallops in a creamy wine sauce, baby lamb chops with Dijon-garlic bordelaise, tournedos, fresh pasta, homemade pate, excellent cheese choices. Check the blackboard specials. $$

FRENCH



TERlLLl’S 2815 Greenville at Vickery, 214-827-3993- Lunch and dinner, late night to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, Sunday brunch 11:30a.m.ro 3 p.m., closed Christmas. Business lunch spot by day; Italian bistro/supperclub by night. Live jazz nightly. Chicken primavera most popular. Try rhe”Itai-chos,” nacho-size chips of pizza crust with variety of Italian toppings. Outdoor dining, too. $$

ITALIAN



TiPPERARY INN 5815 Live Oak at Skillman, 214-823-7167. Dinner and lare night, open 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Open every Jay except Christmas. Wednesday to Saturday nights, Celtic music. A bit o’ the ol’ sod here on the plains. Irish-born Martin and Anne Lombard looked for an Irish pub in Dallas to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day. Finding none, they decided to open one. Chef David Lafferty won rave reviews with a very différent kind of menu at his last place in Connecticut. Here he good-naturedly serves up a stylized version of Guinness beef stew, seafood boxty (potato crepe), Irish smoked salmon and sure, corned beef and cabbage. Whisky bread pudding made with Irish soda bread; the soups are hearty, and so’s the crowd. $

IRISH



WHITE SWAN CAFE 6334 LaVista Drive, 214-824-8122. Lunch and dinner. Pastas and paella share the menu with Cuban tamales, citrus-marinated steak, traditional Cuban sandwiches that could feed the whole table. $$

CUBAN



Oak Cliff



BISHOP ARTS CAFE 316 West Seventh, 214-943-3565. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, brunch Sunday, closed Monday. Tiny Oak Cliff place with lots of style; inventive blackboard menu. Fabulous fresh filet of salmon with lemon and dill usually available. Pumpkin soup is the seasonal hit. White tablecloths, candles and fresh flowers; bring your own wine. Popular with downtown professionals an J business people. $$

ECLECTIC



Far Nor



ADDISON CAFE 5290 Belt Line, #108, at Montfort, 214-991-8824. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner only Saturday, Sunday. Appealing French bistro-style dishes are perfectly turned out in this tiny treasure. This fall try masted rabhit “grandmother style,” or duckling with peach bigarade sauce. Then, there’s the grilled salmon with a lemon-caper couscous. Can’t miss the classic onion soup. Don’t pass up the desserts: this season, w;irm apple tart topped with caramel bourbon sauce (and French vanilla ice cream for the truly decadent). Don’t eat tomorrow! $$

FRENCH BISTRO



AUGUST MOON 15030 Preston at Belt Line, Dallas, 214-385-7227. 2300 North Central at Park, Piano, 214-881-0071- 1401 North Collins at Six Flags, Arlington, 817-861-1369. Lunch and dinner, 365 days. Dim Sum lovers rejoice! Homemade Formosa sausage, Pot stickers, “Su-Mai” (Cantonese: meat in crepes), spicy chicken in lettuce cups. Entrees: five-flavor shrimp, Szechuan-style sizzling plate, orange chicken, shrimp with asparagus and tiny eggplant, Formosa rice vermicelli are menu tempters at this trio of family-owned restaurants. Dallas: contemporary open kitchen. Arlington; I long Kong style. Piano: post modem, black/white checker flair, tropical foliage. Sam Tsay, the patriarch, got his start as a Chinese scholarship student working after school in a restaurant where he chopped 50 pounds of cabbage his first night. $

CHINESE



BEALE STREET 4291 Belt Line Road at Midway, 214-458-9477. Lunch and dinner seven days, closed holidays. Urban chic: gold walls, black accents, bright florals, subdued 1 ighting. Blues and jazz live 7-1 l:30Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights. Outdoor dining. Most popular: Cajun seafood, Memphis BBQ; tuttomare (shrimp and crawfish tossed fettucine in cream sauce), crab cakes, spicy voodoo-sauced (cayenne, garlic, beer, butter) seafood or chicken, crab cakes. $

ECLECTIC CAJUN-CREOLE



BLUE MESA GRILL 5100 Belt Line at Tollway, Addison, 214-934-0165. Lunch and dinner 365 days. One of this month’s featured restaurants; see “Southwest fare…” on page 114. $$

SOUTHWESTERN



BOLERO GRILL 5290 Belt Line at Montfort, Addison, 214-991-8824. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. Limited but well-chosen, inexpensive wine list. Most popular Harira (lentil) soup, kebab. Signature dishes: cappelini primav-era with grilled lamb sausage, pan-seared tilapia, grilled veggies over or:o pasta with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette. $$

MEDITERRANEAN



CAFE CAPRI 15107 Addison at Belt Line, Addison, 214-960-5686. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner only Saturday, closed Sunday. Romantic setting with tinkly harp music in the background, classic French and Italian dishes carefully prepared, beautifully presented. Let them make a fuss over you and order the peppered filet mignon flamed at your table! Pleasant (unchtime choice too. $$

CONTINENTAL



CANTINA LAREDO 4546 Belt Line, Addison, 214-458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill, Dallas, 214-987-9192. Lunch and dinner. Noisy, festive and touristy-tipico: crooning waiters, strolling mariachis, hut the food’s great anyway. Ask tor the secret salsa: green napalm for sadomasochists. Best bets: cabritoalhorno,slow-bakn.l goal meal slow-toasted to melting tenderness, flavorful carnitas (toasted pork), mesquite-grilled quail, or Tam-pico-style orange roughy topped with lime butter, poblano, jack cheese, and guacamole. Ole! $$

MEXICAN



CHAMBERLAIN’S PRIME CHOP HOUSE 5330 Belt Line, Town Hall Square at Montfort, Addison, 214-934-2467. Dinner, closed Sunday. Free valet. Fashioned after a ’50s style European brasserie: polished brass, dark woods, deep burgundy, Most popular tenderloin stuffed with por-lohello, lamb and horseradish-mashed potatoes, peppered venison steak, slow-smoked prime rib. Dallas-bom namesake chef (Mansion, Crescent Club and Agnew vet) is co-owner. $$

STEAK



CHUSl 5290 Belt Line, #144, at Montfort, 214-960-2999. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday. The $5.75 daily lunch buffet is a gteat value that attracts local business people. Evenings: couples come to share grilled lemongrass chicken or fish with steamed oriental broccoli, white tablecloth, candles. Try the charbroiled chicken salad on a bed of lettuce with spicy vermicelli noodles. Or flat rice noodles with lean beef and black mushrooms. Takeout and delivery.$

VIETNAMESE-CHINESE



DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE 5251 Spring Valley at the Tollway, 214-526-9811. Dinner, closed Sunday. The carnivore’s castle. White tablecloths, candles, lots of tourists, frequent flyers, and visiting firemen in search of the quintessential Texas steak experience. Here it is. Mega-lobsters, too. $$$

STEAK



DOVIE’S 14671 Midway, 214-233-9846. Lunch and dinner. Open every day except major holidays. The setting is the real treat. Housed in the former estate of WWII hero/movie star Audie Murphy, it’s been lovingly restored. Seven different dining rooms range from casual to outright romantic- Menu specialties include rainbow trout with lemon butter, “Chicken Ryan” crusted with pecans and basil on a ginger-scented orange sauce, king salmon with pineapple relish, plus old fashioned favorites prepared the way Audie would probably like them. $$

AMERICAN TRADITIONAL



GASPAR’S 150 South Denton Tap Road at Sandy Lake, Coppell, 214-393-5152. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. Chef Steven Pilar picks up the gauntlet here with signature dishes: pork schnitzel with lemon and capers, red snapper topped with shrimp and scallops in a lemony dill sauce, San Francisco-style crabcakes, lobster and crayfish napoleans, smoked salmon served with corn pancake, lamb chops grilled with chive-infused olive oil. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



HUNTINGTON’S AT THE WESTIN HOTEL 13340 Dallas Parkway at LBJ,214-H51-28S2. Lunch and dinner weekdays, dinner Saturday, closed Sunday. An elegant tespite in a beautifully appointed dining room with lots of greenery and fresh flowers, wingback chairs. You’ll he cradled in comfort, surrounded by soothing music, and spoiled with attentive service. The menu promises Dover sole meunière, rack of lamb, wild boar and other game, longhorn bee￡ even pan-seared ostrich with sun-dried blueberry chutney. Winner of the Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award, it offers an extensive yet moderately priced selection. Call about the special Thanksgiving menu. $$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



KOBE STEAKS 5000 Belt Line off Dallas Parkway, Addison, 214-934-S150. Dinner 365 days. Steak is the star here, U.S. prime. Choose the filet mignon and have it chop-chop-chopped, sizzled and stirred before your eyes with fresh veggies. Other choices: Teriyaki beef or chicken, shrimp, scallops, even a lobster/filer mignon combo (think of it as a stir-fry surf ’n’ turf). Half-price for half-size portions for the kids- They’ll find it great fun. $$

JAPANESE



MAY DRAGON 4848 Belt Line at Inwood, Addison, 214-392-9998. Lunch and dinner 365 days. One of the mast scrutable Chinese menus ever; descriptions so complete you can use it as a cookbook. Almost as many dishes, too! Most pop-ular: sesame chicken, crispy whole red snapper in Hunan sauce, Peking duck, Hong Kong-style steak. Roll your own: lettuce with shrimp, chicken, or pork or vegetarian. Giant fortune cookie filled with chocolate mousse! Piano music Friday and Saturday nights. $$

CHINESE



MEDITERRANEO 18111 Preston at Frankford, 214-447-0066. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Smoke-free dining room; smoking in bar only. Classy continental decor (lighting won a design award). This is the more casual sister restaurant to The Riviera; exec chef David Holben creates menus for both. CIA grad scholarship program took him to France to work in famed kitchens: Roger Verge, Paul Bocuse in Lyon, the George V Hotel in Paris. Most popular: capellini crab pancake, double cut lamb chop, polenta-crusted salmon. $$

MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO



MI PIACI 14854 Montfort, Addison, 214-934-8424. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, Saturday and Sunday dinner only. Homemade Bologna-style pasta (with eggs) and hand-stirred risotto dishes with imported short grain rice are festered. Try the salmon and sea scallop risotto. Or the cappellacci: giant ravioli tilled with fresh crabmeat, finished with lemon cream and asparagus. Brodo fruiti di mare is the classic fishermen’s stew, enough for two. Simple pleasures: new potatoes roasted with rosemary and olive oil. $$

ITALIAN



MONTE CARLO AT THE GRAND KEMPINSKI 15201 Dallas Parkway, 214-386-6000. Dinner. Attractive special occasion setting with a satisfying menu drawn from sunny Provence and the Mediterranean; lovely seafood, lightly cooked vegetables, indulgent desserts. $$$

FRENCH



MR. SUSHI 4860 Belt Line, Addison, 214-385-0168. Lunch and dinner. Sushi in the best tradition exquisitely prepared and adroitly presented. For a real feast, order the 12-course banquet (and nev-ergainanounce!).Foifun,ha\’eshahu-shahu: wafer-thin beef, yam noodles, tofu cooked at your table in a fragrant broth. Appeti;er list great for adventurers: Asari in sake, boiled sea snail. Except tor tempura, most items are low in tat. $$$

JAPANESE



PICASSO’S RISTORANTE 3948 Legacy at Coit, Piano, 214-618-4143. Lunch and dinner, closed Christmas, Traditional neighborhood “ristorante fare” in a pleasant setting; low entree prices, and you can bring your own wine. Kid size servings, half-price. Lots of veal and seafood dishes; thin crust Neapolitan style pizza, too. Chicken rolla-tine wrapped around crabmeat is the specialty. $ ITALIAN



TUPINAMBA12801 Midway, #503, 214-243-2355. Lunch and dinner. Traditional Tex-Mex fare, the way it always was: fried tacos, lots of gua-camole and sour cream, refried beans, frosty salt-rimmed Margaritas. Emhueltos are foot-wide tortillas filled with chicken, deep fat-fried, then topped with cheese. Close your eves and imagine it’s 1940.$

MEXICAN



Midcities-Fort Worth

BENTON’S AT THE HARVEY HOTEL Esters at Highway 114, Irving, 214-929-4500. One of this month’s featured restaurants; see “Southwest fare…” on page 114- $$

SOUTHWESTERN



BISTRO BAGATELLE 406 West Abrams, Arlington, 817-261-0488. Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, dinner only Saturday and Monday, closed Sunday. Mediterranean and country French influences in this gem of a restaurant tucked away in a charming house. Brittany-style mussels, duck leg confit with herbed potato patties, wild mesclun salad, lump crabmeat cakes with angel hair pasta, roasted salmon with fennel and artichoke, lamb tenderloin with spinach and feta all await you. Sorbets are intense and desserts irresistible: crème brulee, pecan chocolate cheesecake, even traditional floating island. $$

FRENCH COUNTRY



CAFE CIPRIANI 220 East Las Colinas Boulevard at O’Connor, Irving, 214-869-0713. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Classic European glass and brass lift descends to high style dining. Best sellers; salmon with pink peppercorn sauce, veal dishes and Cioppino Livornese, a seafood feast soup/stew enough for 2. Candles. orchids, soft Italian music, live piano weekends. Popular with tourists from nearby Omni Mandalay. $$

ITALIAN, NORTHERN



CAFE MATTHEW 8251 Bedford-Euless Road, Airport Freeway Loop 820, North Richland Hills, 817-577-3463. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. Another near-Airport experience that turns out to be surprisingly good. Cafe Matthew serves up spicy, sophisticated southwestern fare in a stylish second floor perch in Old Town Square. Breast of quail arrives on a texture-rich base of fruit and nuts. Mocha crane brulee is the dessert of choice. $$

SOUTHWEST/CONTINENTAL



CACHAREL 9th Floor, Brookhollow Two, 2221 East Lamar at Highway 360, Arlington, 817-640-9981. Lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and holidays. 100% non-smoking. Imagine a Country French penthouse! This one serves escargot, house-cured salmon on haricots, pesto-brushed swordfish, tenderloin Perigordine sauce, Most popular: duck breast with cranberries, filo with white chocolate mousse and raspberries. Fall features: venison, pheasant. Conde Nast Traveler magasines reader poll placed Cacharel among the top 50USArestaurants(l/94).$$$

FRENCH COUNTRY



CAFE D’OR Omni Mandalay Hotel, 221 East Las Colinas Boulevard at Mandalay, Irving, 214-556-0800. Breakfast, lunch and dinner 365 days. Popular lunchtime setting for area business people, overlooks Mandalay canal, courtyard view. Fresh flowers, candles at dinnertime; festive, extensive holiday buffets planned for Thanksgiving and Christmas. $$$

AMERICAN CDNTEMPORARY



CAFE ON THE GREEN Four Seasons Resort, 4150 North MacArthur, Irving, 214-717-0700. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Polished presentations, serene surroundings: a prime choice for social or business occasions, A bounty of creative pasta dishes, many available as appetizers for sampling. A favorite: lemon pepper linguini with gulf crab cakes and purple basil infused olive oil. Alternative low-calorie cuisine is tops: seared grouper with crayfish combread stuffing, open face ravioli layered with asparagus, artichokes, mushrooms and balsamic tomato saucé. The wine room sears 1: glassed-in cellar and cafe views. Wine Spectator Great Wine List Award. $$

NEW AMERICAN



ENJOLIE Omni Mandalay Hotel, 221 East Las Colinas Boulevard at Mandalay, Irving, 214-556-0800. Dinner, closed Sunday and Monday. Souffles are a specialty: Dover sole souffle stuffed with Maine lobster and scallops. Or a variety of souffles for dessert made to order. Other picks: potato crusted sea bass with Merlot sauce, Texas venison with seasonal relishes and chutney. Fresh flowers, white tablecloths, soft music, private dining available. Canal view. $$$

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY



MASSIMO DA MILAN 2931 Irving Boulevard, #106, 214-630-4683. Newest: Preston Center, 6109 Berkshire, 214-989-2782. 6333 East Mockingbird, Suite 106, 214-826-9456. 710 NorthPark, 739-3933. 5519 West Lovers, 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto, 871-0400. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 208, Addison, 661-5255.4000 North MacArrhur, Irving, 579-3463. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch and takeout, closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Fresh flowers, bright setting, classical soft jazz belie the fact that this is a bakery and take-out shop cum cafeteria. Never mind, the food is good, and a great value, BOO. Most popular: pasta salads, canneloni, eggplant lasagna, thick pizzas (try the signature tomato-free albino pizza), even low-fat pizza. Fall feature: osso buco. Bakery features fresh specialty breads. Thanksgiving pumpkin pies, cheesecakes, holiday cookies; 65 percent of their customers are women, many for takeout. Gourmet coffees, kid’s menu. $

ITALIAN BAKERY/CAFE



SAINT-EMILION 3617 West Seventh Street, Fort Worth, 817-737-2781. Dinner seven days a week. Pretty country French decor and traditional dishes, lovingly prepared. The price-fixed full menu at S28.75 is a great find. Choose rotisseried duck, sage-scented roast chicken in the country style, boneless lamb, smoked beef tenderloin, imported Dover sole in lemon butter. Start with the coarse-textured country-style pate. $$

COUNTRY FRENCH



VIA REAL 4C20 North MacArrhur at Las Colinas Plaza, Suite 100, Irving, 214-255-0064. Lunch and dinner seven days, closed holidays. Mexican cuisine with Santa Fe-style in a lovely Las Colinas setting; menu is right on target. Black ceiling gives the illusion of an outdoor courtyard at night. Spanish balcony, water spilling from urn to urn. The show continues wtih gulf shrimp on serrano chile fettuccine, almond-crusted chicken in a spicy orange-seen ted sauce. Squash enchiladas, mushroom tacos for vegetarians. Bargain wine list. $$

MEXICAN