Monday, September 26, 2022 Sep 26, 2022
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Restaurants & BARS

By D Magazine |


Salsa Serenade

Incredible as it may seem to tender-tongued out-landers. Texans don’t dip chips into the liquefied fire we call salsa because we like to hurt ourselves. Granted. salsas may be a cult addiction-but they’re really more of a comfort food here in Tex-Mex country, and locals will tell you that no two are alike. Aficionados’ favorites span the spectrum of piquance. but have two delicious aspects in common: They’re free at most places whether you’re having a mere beer or a whole meal: and they provide a fairly reliable key to the style of Tex-Mex a restaurant serves. Ranging from tepid to incendiary, here are a few examples:

La Calle Doce chunks fresh tomatoes in a milder-than-ordinary version distinguished by more cilantro than pepper and serves the fresh-textured conglomeration with hot, thin chips. Have yours in this Oak Cliff haven’s pretty blue glassed-in patio, overlooking the mural on the building next door. 415 West Twelfth.

Cantina Laredo’s regular salsa is major hot stuff, big bites of tomato and onion with a hint of cumin, served warm-almost stew-like. But ask instead for Ruben’s salsa, a by-request-only killer that’s a green, mean combination of roasted tomatillos and searing peppers, wonderful if you can handle the heat. The chips: wide ribbons of plain tortillas, good, but not as special as the bath they take. 4546 Bell Line, Addison; 8121 Walnut Hill.

Chapa’s on Lowest Greenville has built a near-fanatic following for its blister-raising, very fresh amalgam of tomato with complex pepper components. One addict told me he’s actually been known to drink the stuff. He does; I don’t-this made-daily potion is pure napalm. The chips are great, greaseless yellow-corn curls served hot. 1516 Greenville Ave.

Tijuana Johnny’s Starts you off with a heady salsa that’s authoritatively zippy. Assertive-but not pain-inflicting. This screamingly colorful lower McKinney establishment sweeps die chips palette, too. with three colors of corn tostados-red, yellow and blue. 2621 McKinney Ave.

Uncle Julio’s sets out the most sissy version around, so mild you really could drink it sans pain, but mellow notwithstanding. Its subtle undertone of roasted onion goes down so easy you can go through two bowls with one beer. The chips here were warm and super-thin, made more for dipping than scooping. 7557 Greenville Ave.; 4125 Lemmon.

Rudy’s Tortilla Factory, the city’s best source for snapping-crisp tortilla chips. also stirs up a fine, chunky salsa for lake-home stocking up. Since you’re not eating here, it’s not free, just factory cheap-an 8-ounce jar is only 85 cents and a same-weight bag of chips is $1.59. This has got to be the best salsa snacking deal in town. 5120 Maple Ave. -Betty Cook


Democratic Drinks

To toast the new tenants of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, some of Dallas’ politically astute watering holes have concocted a collection of inaugural drinks to welcome Bill and Hill. At the Blind Lemon, 2805 Main, and the Art Bar & Cafe, 2803 Main, bartenders will be serving up “The Draft Dodger,” “The Fat Jogger” and “Dogpatch Dew.” “We don’t know what’s in them, and we don”t know how to make them, but we’re sure you’ll like them,” says owner Jeffrey Yarbrough.

The 8.0, 2800 Routh St., is offering a cocktail for each of the three presidential candidates. Starting off the lineup is “The Bushwhacker,” also known as the “Spoilermaker,” a shot of Jagermeister mixed with cheap tequila. {“Like Ross, it’s short and packs a wallop,” says owner Shannon Wynne.) “Bye George” and ’The Mr. Bill” round out the menu.

State Bar, 3611 Parry Ave., will serve “Donkey !#*?,” a mix of Southern Comfort, grenadine arid Pernod. Like campaign promises, some of these sound a bit hard to swallow, but maybe there’ll be a bowl of pork rinds on the side. -Ellise Pierce


Grazing the Glaze

Flat. Thai’s how the holidays leave us after too much gifting and blow-the-budget good times. In the chill light of January, we look for ways to ease the snap back to reality-which doesn’t necessarily require taking vows of total austerity. Take instead a short drive to Rockwall and the kinder (to the pocketbook), gentler (on your nerves), all-you-can-eat world of the Glaze. As much a gathering place as a restaurant, this family-styled outpost spreads a daily buffet built on country cooking, and does it with a country attitude: You can almost hear some motherly sort scolding, “My land, honey, you don’t eat enough to keep a bird alive,” as you dig into chicken and dumplings, chicken-fried steak, fried catfish and juicy pot roast. The tab is hard to believe: $4.99 until 4 p.m. and $5,99 after 4 or weekdays; $5.99 on Sundays regardless of how many times you go back for more. Take 1-30 east across the lake, exit at State Highway 740 (Ridge Road), and head for the shopping center on your right. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 771- 3399. -Betty Cook

New Restaurants

A Room With a Past

LANDMARK CAFE It seems like an oxymoron to call Landmark Cafe a new restaurant; this gracious old room is clearly no newcomer, but a hostess with a history .We’re calling it new because Kent Rathbun recently took over as chef, and because of his experience in The Mansion kitchen, we expect a renaissance here.

The menu takes some concentration to read, reflecting The Mansion’s tiring ten-dency to overdescribe the dishes. It takes a zealous imagination for a diner to create in his mind’s palate the mix of flavors described in, say, “pan-seared big-eye tuna in hot and sour egg drop broth with bok choy broccoli stir fry and fresh ramen noodles.” “Southern smoked chicken masa soup” was a more appealingly simple description and the taste was just as complicated in the mouth-proceeding from smoke to sweet and ending on a surprise exclamation of heat. Not to downplay the tuna-Chef Rathbun spent six weeks in Bangkok when he first joined the Melrose and has a thorough understanding of the contrast of textures and subtlety of flavors that give Oriental cuisines such resonance. The same influence was evident in a fragrant combination of sesame-seared Gulf snapper with citrus and lemon grass; nestled on a ginger-corn purée, its softness was set off by a crunchy cucumber and bean sprout salad. Natural chicken baked with red curry ” and cooled by a mint chutney was strikingly presented with pieces of pappadums sticking up like sails.

Pan-seared lamb loin was tender, juicy and sweet-on a bed of torzo, it was supposed to come with an asparagus/sun-dried tomato compote, which we couldn’t find. We couldn’t see the Maytag blue cheese in the deep amber sauce, either, but one taste told us it was there.

Remodeling of the hotel had begun when we visited, so finding our way to the dining room was the only rough spot in a smoothly satisfying evening. There’s no reason Landmark Cafe should not take its place among die foremost dining rooms in Dallas. Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Mon.-Thurs. breakfast 6:30-10:30, lunch 11-2, dinner6-10. Fri. lunch 11-2, dinner 6-11. Sat. breakfast 7-11 a.m., dinner 6-1! p.m. Sun. breakfast 7-11 a.m., brunch 11-2 p.m. All credit cards. -Mary Brown Malouf

The Grand Lady Gets a Makeover

THE FRENCH ROOM Am I the only doubter about the French Room’s new decor? Apparently-almost every table was filled the night we were there on a traditionally slow Tuesday, and most of the diners seemed to be having a fine time. We could tell because waves of conversation and merriment, once muted and contained by lush savonnerie-style carpeting, carried clearly from the grand room’s farthest corner across the slick, dark green marble squares that now pattern the floor. The monumental shrub-topped columns that quarter the space obstructed our view without softening the sound; the positioning of our table for two, set partially between one of them and the inner wall, left us uncertain whether we were intended to feel intimately secluded or relegated to semi-Siberian exile. And richly floral window treatments in deep jewel tones offered disconcertingly heavy contrast to the pale, vaulting ceilings and elegant chandeliers that have mercifully been retained.

Service, too, has been deformalized in dress and manner; instead of tuxedos, waiters wear white jackets, black-and-white neckties and briskly helpful attitudes-no quarrel there.

Executive chef Kevin Garvin and consulting chef Jean Banchet have chosen to term their new menu’s food “Neoclassic Cuisine” to denote an American-influence updating of French classics in dishes with less fat, but no less flavor-in another of their words, “comfortable” food. And indeed, ours was, although the contrast between my companion’s a la carte selections and my own $48.50 prix-fixe four courses was almost as marked as the dichotomy created by the new decor.

Our soups were both lobster-based- mine, a clear consomme with seafood ravi oli, almost totally bland; hers, deeply flavored lobster chowder, beautifully seasoned and served with roasted garlic toast; although without the yellow pepper rouille promised on the menu.

Her salad, a joyous toss of spring green; in vinaigrette with a round of peppered goat cheese, was light and lovely. 1 coveted it as I picked at my second course, a thick cut of roasted sturgeon on heavily pungent braised cabbage leaves, topped with crisp chips of turnip, beet and tarot root and strewn with roasted garlic pods.

Entrees were as disparate, although both were Fine. Her seared salmon fillet charred medium rare was perfection in a brown butter caper sauce, sided with three ovals of creamy saffron risotto. My huge plate held enough food to fell a stevedore-the grilled veal chop, itself moist and tender, was accompanied by wild rice risotto, roasted corn, tiny green beans and chopped tomato on extremely intense demi-glace.

Desserts were a solid pear tart on blond creme anglaise with vanilla ice cream for me. appealingly airy pillows of puff pastry layered with creme brulee and raspberries on delectable dark caramel sauce for her.

In opening announcements, Adolphus Hotel management declared its intent to avoid any kinship to the minimalist serv ings associated with nouvelle, spa and other light French cuisines. Certainly the prix-fixe chef’s menu, offered as a bargain alternative, proves that point in terms of quantity; for pleasure’s sake, though, it seems to me that including the heavy fish course with a rich and hearty entree was sheer overkill. And my companion’s a la carte dinner, surprisingly, totaled not quite two dollars more than mine. Not that cost has ever been an issue in deciding to dine here. Pricey as ever, the French Room is still a special-occasion dining destination, and if its new decor lacks some of its old romance–well, perhaps that’s what updat ing for the ’90s is all about. The Adolphus Hole!, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200, Mon- Sat. 6-10:30 p.m. Very expensive. All credit cards. -Betty Cook

On the Road to Galilee

BARRY’S SANDWICH SHOP This unassuming little eatery in Snider Plaza is not exactly new, but it has assumed a new identity: the big sign in the window now advertises “Galilean food.”

As we found out on an evening visit, Barry’s has been a dependable spot for American lunch counter fare for a dozen years-its menu of egg salad and chicken salad sandwiches, split-pea soup, BLTs, pimento cheese sandwiches, chili dogs. even peanut butter and jelly is a steady draw for students, shoppers and Plaza-area residents. But now there’s a new owner. Kasem Elkhlaid, who has “always wanted a restaurant” and enjoys having one so much he even waits tables, giving Barry’s a rare and wholesome small-town charm.

Evidently, no one else was as excited about trying Galilean food as we were: The little cafe was nearly empty. However, we ordered one of nearly everything: falafel, kafta {baked ground meat and wheat covered with tahini sauce), pale green cabbage rolls, long, thin grape leaves filled with lemony rice, tender pieces of boneless, skinless chicken breast baked with lots of lemon and garlic and served with mixed rice and vermicelli. It was hard to tell much difference between this and other Middle Eastern cuisines, but who’s complaining? The only thing we didn’t tike was the Styrofoam and plastic dishes and flatware, but the owner says he is planning to change that soon. The hummus (pureed garbanzos) and baba ghannouj (mashed, roasted eggplant) were strongly flavored with lemon and garlic as well; both were wonderful spread on pita bread. Cucumber yogurt salad tamed the aftereffect of the garlic, and a golden nammoura (cream of wheat cake) made a soothing dessert.

We’re now fans of Galilean food-and best of all, there’s nothing over $4.95 on the whole menu. 6710 Snider Plaza, 750- 0330. Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m.-9 p.m 10 a.rn.-9 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Inexpensive. No credit cards. -M.B.M.

Mel’s Place

JAXX CAFE Are we witnessing the mellowing of Mel Hollen? In its first-flush heyday, his Atlantic Cafe was noted for its frigid staff attitude and rigid dress codes. But while a first glance at his new Addison venture suggests kinship to that now-defunct restaurant and Pacific Cafe, with which he was initially associated. Jaxx Cafe is no clone of either. The darkly polished bar. richly beveled glass-and-brass partitions and many-mirrored wall treatments are the same, but Jaxx is a far more pleasant place, with cordial hostesses and a permissively casual ambiance.

The dinner menu tops out at $14.95, and a day’s special entree tagged at that level was worth every penny: a superb red snapper sauteed in black sesame-seed crust, served on tomato coulis and framed with pretty-on-the-plate baby vegetables.

Seafood is definitely the hero here. Crabcakes were crisp-skinned, loaded with sweet meat, scrumptiously sided with creamy lobster dipping sauce that made the other accompanying sauce, a remoulade, superfluous. Soft-shell crabs, sauteed scampi-style, were juicy and garlicky, their tender edges paper-crisp. Pan-fried oysters were put in the shade by the aforementioned snapper, but they were nicely seasoned and breaded, and the fries that came with them were wonderful.

The desserts were wonderful, too- while chocolate bread pudding was a proud one, moist and yummy under a crown of vanilla ice cream; creme brulee touched the top of the scale for this standard under a perfect skin of burnt sugar.

A return lunch started almost as memo rably. Caesar salad consisted of great greens, pungently dressed and showered with a tableside grating of Parmesan, and the day’s special of broccoli-cheese soup packed a surprise feta and Parmesan zip. My companion’s entree, too, passed muster-her mushroom burger’s meat patty was smoky and rare-centered, as ordered, beneath a layering of mushrooms, tomato, onion and lettuce, unfortunately excelsior-shredded past crispness. My house-specialty selection, something called Original Jaxx involving eggs scrambled with spinach, onions, ground beef and mushrooms, was a mistake; the gone-gray complexion of the mixture was visually depressing, and the dish had little flavor of any kind. Next time I think I’ll stick to seafood, which seems to me to be Jaxx Cafe’s strongest suit. 14925 Midway Road at Beltway in Addison. 458-7888. Sun.- Thurs. 11-10:30, Fri.-Sat. 11-11. Moderate. All credit cards. -B.C.

Country Cooking on Crowdus

Backstreet By late night, which is the best time to have breakfast, this little offhack Deep Ell urn diner probably teems with crowds at least as colorful as the cartoon favorites-Porky Pig, Dagwood, Popeye, et al-engaged in whoop-it-up revelry in the black-and-white mural that fills one long wall.

But by day, which is when we visited, Backstreet is a different place altogether, quiet and homey as a country cafe on nearly deserted Crowdus Street.

Homey is certainly one word for the food served here: generous, rib-sticking and satisfying also come to mind. The menu is a one-sheet listing of basics- burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfasts, plus a section of house specialties that allows for a changing-daily plate lunch special. On our first visit, the latter was meat loaf, and a fine, hearty version it was, heaped on the plate and sharing its juices with good mashed potatoes. My companion’s blackened chicken breast was a fortunate choice, too-spicy enough to be interesting, but not painful, succulent inside its crisp crust. Homemade apple pie hit the right chord of cinnamoned sweetness in a tender crust.

Our return visit’s bowl of chili started the meal on a slightly sour note-literally: Chunky with gristle-free lean beef under chopped onion and cheese, it held an unusual tartness the waitress assured us was seasoning, but which we found off-putting. A cheeseburger, though, was prime stuff, its flavorful patty loosely packed and juicy, stacked with tomato, crisp iceberg leaves and plenty of pickles. The breakfast special was a winner-eggs soft-scrambled to order; big ol’ pancakes with little crisp batter tails, pre-buttered and served with a bowl of warm syrup; a tangled pile of curly bacon strips fried perfectly crisp-all for $3.95.

Which is typical of the price scale here-Backstreet’s menu tops out al S5.50, and management’s amiability even extends to credit cards–unusual for a small-check establishment. 212 N. Crowdus, north of Elm. 748-7191. Mon.-1’ues. H a.m.-7 p.m., Wed.-Thurs. II a.m.-2 a.m., Fri. II a.m.-5 a.m., Sat. 8p.m.-5 a.m. Inexpensive. All credit cards, -B. C.

The Lost Evening

ROCA BLANCA This space (formerly occupied by Anita’s) is pleasantly high up with a narrow balcony at the far end of the dining room that you think should overlook White Rock Lake but actually has a perfect view of the parking lot at Cowboys, a two-step palace. Oh, well. The main attraction the night we visited was the television, anyway. Technically, it was turned on in the bar, but the way one space flows into another, the laugh track was audible at every table.

Maybe we noticed the TV more because there was no conversational babble to mask it-the place was virtually deserted though Roca Blanca has been open several months.

We bad a roller coaster of an evening with exceptional highs and lows. The service was consistently well-meaning and just as consistently inept. Orders were misunderstood and forgotten; the correct food was incredibly slow coming from the kitchen. It’s as though everyone in Roca Blanca was just waking up from a long siesta, and as a result, we felt a little like party crashers all evening. We had to flag our waitress for basic chips and water, then everyone got drinks but one person and the food came in two shifts. However, the live music was excellent with a solo singer and guitar player.

And the food was good, too, though it may have been the wait that whetted our appetites. Red and green salsa are complimentary, and both were wonderful, the chunky red sauce with a touch of oniony sweetness, the green thinner and more acidic. But the chips were of varying degrees of crispness, greasiness and freshness, depending on which basket you were munching from.

It’s hardly fair to say anything about a Mexican restaurant if you haven’t lasted the cheese enchiladas; the ones at Roca Blanca were excellent, covered with exceptionally deep chili gravy and served with rice. There was lots of chorizo on the menu-a delicious boneless chicken breast was covered with savory, crumbled sausage then topped with melted cheese, making it a marvelously rich and unusual dish. Chorizo was also combined with avocado and cheese in a luxurious filling for quesadillas. There is a long list of seafood specialties-we tried the snapper covered with a ranchero-style sauce, slightly fishy but good when wrapped in the outstanding corn tortillas. 7324 Gaston. 319-9776. Mon.-Sat. 11-3, 5-10; Sun. 11-3. Inexpensive to moderate. No credit cards.


First Z-Bat; Zen Z Show

Z Ba r Zanzibar has been born again twice: once in Cafe 450, and again in this, a reincarnation in the original location. The memory of the popular hangout is strong here-the brick walls are still stained with smoke from the fire that destroyed everything. Z-Bar just misses by a hair the cozy, comfortable feel of the original, instead seeming a little dark and heavy.

The menu, like Zanzibar’s did. specializes in pasta and sandwiches. Neither of our first visit’s pasta dishes was wonderful-the fettuccine sauce described as creamy on the menu was gloppy, drowning the pasta, shrimp, red pepper and pecans in richness. Spinach tortellini with mushrooms and fresh spinach was also overcome by a basil-walnut sauce. Beginners were better. The ceviche was excellent, with firm snapper and shrimp and the resonance of onion and cilantro backing up the pepper heal. A round of goat cheese was baked with a drizzle of olive oil and walnuts and served with watermelon, apples and oranges. The main problem with our first impression was the service, which was excruciatingly slow for a casual dinner.

Our next visit though, was thoroughly enjoyable: The service was thoughtfully efficient and the food was better, or perhaps we just chose more wisely. Appetizer quesadillas overflowing with fresh mushrooms, chicken and cheese and served with searing salsa could have been supper by themselves, but we followed them with pasta tossed with fresh spinach and topped with a (hick red marinara sauce. Chicken stuffed with spinach and goat cheese and topped with a spinach cream sauce was good, and “Dmitri’s Lunch.” a stack of Swiss and Cheddar cheeses, pastrami, smoked turkey, onions, sprouts, avocado and tomato on black bread, was great, as was the “Famous #9.” with Jack cheese, turkey and avocado.

Chocolate mousse was all cream and no chocolate, making it too bland. Skip dessert and slip into the adjoining Bubble Room instead, where jazz pianist Joe Ruggerio often plays. Maybe the best com bination at Z-Bar is dinner and a show. 2914 Greenville Ave., 828-0352. Moderate. AH credit cards. -M.B.M

D Revisits


D REVISITS Cold Rush Cafe. The place is tiny, but the hospitality’s huge-this down-home spot on lowest Skillman could barely cram in more than a dozen diners, but neighborhood regulars regard its hamburgers as the best in town. They’re right-basic as all get-out, the version griddled here is old-fashioned heaven, from the big-as-the-bun beef patty cooked to a crisp edge to its griddle-toasted bun. lightly greased as it should be and stacked with the requisite fixings. Breakfasts are another main draw-cooked-to-order eggs with bacon, hash browns and toast are available any time, and Mexican-styled huevos rancheros are among specials guaranteed to jump-start a longshoreman’s day. Noontimes, the crowd gathers for a daily lunch special (hat might be anything from enchiladas to a hamburger steak with mashed potatoes and green beans; Saturdays, it’s barbecue. 1913 Skillman Ave. 823-6923. Inexpensive. No credit cards. -B.C.


D REVISITS Brownie’s. Plate lunches-a daily-changing handful-are the order of the day here; our selection, a huge, thin-sliced ham steak sauced with many plump raisins, was too far on the sweet side, but an excellent green bean casserole with mushrooms and cheese toned it down enough, and candied yams were pleasantly wholesome and no) too sweet. From the regular menu, a pair of pork chops, battered and fried, were thick, meaty and moist; vegetable soup was extra-good; creamed com was not, its juices gone gluey by the time it was served. A baked potato was. alas, served in foil; but homemade yeast rolls were admirable, and crisp cornbread muffins were almost as fine. A side order of turkey dressing was almost the best thing on the table, thoughtfully topped with turkey shreds and homey giblet gravy, well seasoned and crunchy with celery and onions. Service was uncommonly obliging-iced tea and coffee refills were fre quent- and regulars were glad to see that the origi nal jukebox stations still decorate each freshly upholstered booth in this nostalgic setting. 5519 East Grand. 824-2996. Inexpensive. No credit cards. -B. C.


D REVISITS Watel’s. One of us had just finished a particularly grueling week’s course in career-up manship; the other had barely survived the shock of buying a new car. What we both needed was a sweetly civilized king’s-X refuge from pressure, and Watel’s filled the bill exactly, from excellent service and amiable ambiance to food that lived up to both. A first-course Roquefort feuilleté was deli cacy itself, the lively cheese flavor cushioned among feather-light pastry leaves: salmon carpac- cio, prettily presented as it was, was for once out shone. A grilled veal chop was succulently splendid with mushrooms in a spirited whole-grain mustard sauce; grilled shrimp were stand-alone monsters, scented with saffron and sided with buttery parsley- flung noodles. Accompanying vegetables-verti cally sliced carrots, zucchini, a broccoli branch-were sautéed to perfect crunch, and tender whole-wheat rolls came with fine sweet butter. Crème br?lée was rather bland and lacked the cus tomary sugar glaze, but a poached pear in thick sabayon sauce on strawberry coulis was elegantly cool. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive. AE. DC, MC, V. -B.C.


D REVISITS Hibachi-Ya. This low-key Japanese steak house is the place to go if you have a heavy- beef hunger. It’s also the place to go if you’re weight-consciously bent on eating light, as my companion of the evening was. Sinful me had the beef, and found it marvelous as always-sirloin tataki was barely charbroiled, then sliced thin for anointing with earthy ponzu sauce; Unie steak, the main dish 1 should forgo someday to try something else (can’t do it) held irresistible flavor from the plum sauce in which the fork-tender filet had been marinated. My companion’s selections were as sen sitively handled: Crisp-bottomed pan dumplings, plump with ground beef, were delectable dipped in gyoza sauce, and a hibachi-grilled mélange of chicken and shrimp curls played pale delicacy against healthy crisp vegetables. Miso soup was al most too subtly seasoned, but salads made up the lack with zesty sweet-tart dressing, and pots of green tea washed it all down with gentle grace- which, by the way, also describes the service in this sunnily civilized little Bachman Lake perennial. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy, Suite 510. 350-1110. In expensive to moderate. All credit cards. -B.C.


D REVISITS Blue Mesa Grill. The ambiance in this self-consciously Santa Fe place is too ebulliently glitzy to capture the laid-back charm of the real Southwest, but there was no faulting the food or service on our recent visit. I was particularly taken with a starter of yam chips served with sour cream and chipotle pepper mayonnaise for dipping-the chips were thin, crisp and delicious. My Southwestern Caesar salad, too, was a stunning affair combining roasted peppers (red bell and poblano), fresh com kernels and Mexican white cheese with the usual greens and crouton toss, prepared tableside with considerable flair. My companion pigged out totally on an excellent shrimp and pineapple quesadilla spiked with jalapeno relish, cooled with sour cream; and a mixed grill that covered all bases with a cheese-stuffed beef tenderloin, tender and flavorful, acceptable crab and shrimp cakes and a potato chili tart that was simply warmly delicious. His dessert sampler starred honey flan and a sliver of meltingly lovely Jack Daniels pie; my chocolate bread puddings wore, for some reason, a topping of English cream sauce. Ah. well-the margaritas were exceptional, and the crowd seemed to feel happily at home here. As, indeed, we did before the evening ended, even though this environment is sure-nuff more Dallas than Santa Fe. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Parkway in Sakowitz Village, Suite 500. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate. All credit cards. -B.C.


D REVISITS Gilbert’s New York Delica tessen. The ugly mauve mirror interior would be more suitable for a poodle salon, but the encyclope dic menu is the first clue thai this is a true New York-style deli. I ate here with a couple of ex-New Yorkers to test its authenticity. The chicken soup passed the test-it’s the kind that makes you well, a rich broth with a matzo the size of a tennis ball cov ering the cup rim to rim. The sandwiches-we tried the meltingly tender hot pastrami on rye and a Reuben-were at least 4 inches tall, and the brisket on crisp-edged, onion-flecked potato pancakes would see you through a Russian winter. Still, our waitress was unforgiving: She eyed the food left on our plates, put her hands on her hips and asked, “What happened?” We left with our next day’s lunch in a bag. 127 Preston Forest Village. 373- 3333. All credit cards. -M.B.M.

D Recommends


Arnold’s Texas Barbecue. 601 N. Haskell. 826-1234. Inexpensive.

Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.

Billy Blues Barbecue & Grill. 2020 N. Lamar ai McKinney. 871-0661. Inexpensive m moderate.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s. 1701 N. Market, Suite 104.742-7001. Inexpensive.

R.J.’S Sho-Nuf. 3910 Maple Ave. 528-5230. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. 302 N. Market 744-16111. Inexpensive.


Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Inexpensive to moderate.


Allen Street Bar & Grill. 2900 McKinney Ave. 871-0256. Inexpensive to moderate.

Balls Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive

Chip’s. 451)1 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. Inexpensive

Daytona’s Grill and Bar. 7402 Greenville Ave. 890-7588. Inexpensive.

EZ’s. 6833 W. Northwest Hwy. 750-6677. Inexpensive.

8.0. 2800 Rnuth St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Starlight Diner. 2715 Elm. 747-STAR. Inexpensive.

State. 361 I Parry Ave. 821-9246. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.


Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Bell Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4527 Travis. 520-1985. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy., Suite 101, Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood & Steak ho use. 14951 Midway Road, Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen. 3520 Oak Lawn. 521-4700. Moderate to expensive.


Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.


August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227, 2300 N. Central Expwy., Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood. Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive,

Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N. Greenville Ave.. Suite 25. Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive

CI…-. Restaurant. 15080 Beltway, Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

Far East. 4830 Greenville Ave. 373-6041. Inexpensive.

First Chinese Barbecue, til S. Greenville Ave.. Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

General China. 1920 Skillman. 827-3688. Inexpensive.

Henry Chen’s. 3701 W. Nonhwesi Hwy. 956-9560. Moderate.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Suite 200 Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

Hunan Restaurant. 5214 Greenville Ave. 369-4578. Inexpensive to moderate.

Lovers Eggroll. 5360 W. Lovers Lane. Suite 205. 358-1318. Inexpensive.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line, Suite 200. Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 152 N. Buekner, Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza. 321-7599. Moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut. Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Texas Jade. 3227 MeKinney Ave. 871-8898. Moderate.

Tone’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.

Young String. 5701 W. Walnut St, Garland. 487-1188. Inexpensive.


Dallul. 2515 In wood. 353-08114. Inexpensive to moderate.River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.


Addison Cafe. .1290 Belt Line, Suite 108. 991-8824. Moderate tu expensive.

Chez Gerard. 4444 MeKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Une. Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple. 871-2523. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981.

Juniper. 2917 Fairmount. 85S-O7U0. Expensive.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0183. 628 NorthPark Center. 696-2398. 11930 Preston (at Forest}. 233-6448. Galleria, at ice rink level. 991-7790. Inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

Le Caviste. 5405 W. Lovers Lane. 352-6512. Moderate.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. 386-60O0. Expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

St. Martins. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.

Sweet Temptations. 9090 Skillman. 503-6007. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tony’s Wine Warehouse and Bistro. 2904 Oak Lawn. 520-9463. Inexpensive.

The Wine Press. 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720. Moderate to expensive.

York St 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Expensive.


Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto, in the Creslpark Hotel. 528-6510. Expensive.

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3840 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Inexpensive.


Cafe Greek. Preston Valley Shopping Center, Preston Road at LBJ. 934-9767. Moderate.

Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.

Kosta’s Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave. 987-3225. Inexpensive.

The M Street Grill. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.


Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Une. 351 -5681. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chubby’s. 11333 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6065. Inexpensive.

Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.

Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.

Good Eats Cafe. 3888 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. 14905 Midway, Addison. 392-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.

Jay’s Cafe. 2912 Elm St. 761-1811. Inexpensive.

Lucky’s. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3500. Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughters’ Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. 2610 Royal Lane. 241-8646. Inexpensive.

Original Market Diner. 4434 Harry Mines. 521-0992. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensvie.

Theo’s Diner. IMS. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market, 969-0310. Inexpensive to moderate.


Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Belt Line. Pre-stonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

Curry in a Hurry. 4302 Bryan. 821-4542. Inexpensive.

India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston. Suite 105.392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village. Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.

Shusmi. 859 N.E. Green Oaks. Arlington. (817) 860-8728. Moderate.

Taj Mahal. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.


Tipperary Inn. 2818 Greenville Ave. 823-7167. Inexpensive.


Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521 -3585. Expensive.

Amici Signature Italian. 1022 S. Broadway. Carrollton. 245-3191. Moderate to expensive.

Andiamo. 4151 Belt Line. 233-1515. Moderate to expensive.

Angelo’s. 6341 La Vista. 823-5566. Inexpensive to moderate.

Arcodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2515 McKinney Ave. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 3505 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-7456. Inexpensive.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd., in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 712-7144. Moderate.

Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave., in The Brewery. 954-1112. Moderate to expensive.

Hip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

II Nonno’s. Hyatt Regency D/FW. East Tower. 453-8400. Moderate to expensive.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Tosca. 7713 lnwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

La Trattoria Lombardi’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954 0803. Moderate.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426.2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place, Suite C106 in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mi Piaci. 14854 Mont fort. 934-8424. Moderate to expensive.

Mise En Place. 7011 Lomo Alto. 520-2424. Inexpensive to moderate.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lane, Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 370, Piano. 423-1066. Moderate. MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. lnexpensive.

Nero’s. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate.

Piccola Cucina. 1030 NorthPark Center. Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Lane. 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.

Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Belt Line. Addison. 386-3831. 5858 Northwest Hwy. 265-0770.

Moderate. Ruffino’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 153. 890-7555. Mod-

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate to expensive.

Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741-01II. Moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. 15101 Addison Road. Addison. 960-2606. Moderate.

Sweet Basil. 17610Midway. 733-1500. Moderate.

Tivoli’s. 2013 Greenville Ave. 824-2013. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market. 747-0322, Moderate to expensive.


Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coil. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 lnwood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 360, Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351 -2281. 3455 N. Belt Line, Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.

Sushi-Yama. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 112. 234-3474. Inexpensive to moderate.


Kobawoo. 3109 lnwood. 351-6922. Moderate.

Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. 272-9909. Inexpensive to moderate.

Koreans. 12101 Greenville Ave., #107.437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.


Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate.

Blind Lemon. 2805 Main Si. 939-0202. Inexpensive to moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7410, Very expensive.

Main St. News. 2934 Main St. 746-2934. inexpensive to moderate.

Sambuca. 2618 Elm St. 744-0820. Moderate.


Avila’s. 4714 Maple. 520-2700. Inexpensive.

Bald era s Tex Mex Restaurant. 3851 Cedar Springs. #A. 526-2180. Inexpensive to moderate.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. SI2I Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.

Chuy’s. 211 N. Record. 747-2838. Moderate.

Cuqutta’s. 2326 N. Henderson. 823-1057. Inexpensive to moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

Eduardo’s Aca y Alla. 2914 Main. 748-7140. Moderate.

El Arroyo. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 202. 363-4464. Inexpensive.

El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to moderate.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 94M304. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12), 388-1244. Inexpensive.

La Chocita. 108 University Village, Piano Road ai Belt Line. Richardson. 690-4445. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy., at Preston, Suite 425.980-7296. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis, Suite 105. 521-0721.221 W. Parker, Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. Preston Park Village. 1900 Preston, Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Mattito’s Cafe Mexicano. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave, 526-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W, Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Bell Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 Westchester. 890-9939. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mi Cocina. 11661 Preston. Suite 138. 265-7704. Inexpensive.

Prime’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tijuana Johnny’s. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-2281. Inexpensive to moderate.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon. 520-6620, Moderate.


Ali Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Inexpensive.


Agnew’s Natural Grill. 3011 Routh St. 720-3908. Moderate to expensive.

Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.


Actuelle. 500 Crescent Court, Suite 165. 855-0440.

Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.

Avner’s. 2515 McKinney Ave, 953-0426, Moderate.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Moderate to expensive.

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.

Buffalo Club. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125, in the Quadrangle. 220-2465, Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Cafe Brazil. 6340 Gaston. 826-9522. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cafe 450. 1802 Greenville Ave. 826-6229, Moderate.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.

City Cafe. 5757 Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.

The Conservatory. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871 -3242. Very expensive.

Crockett’s. Doubletree Hotel at Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 701-5160. Expensive.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001, Moderate to expensive.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm. 741-9012. Moderate.

Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West, 1590 LBJ Frwy. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 170, in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. in the Westin. 851-2882, Expensive to very expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit Drive, off Coil near LBJ Frwy. 851-2021. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Very expensive.

Nana Grill. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7470. Expensive to very expensive.

Natchez. 2810 N. Henderson. B21-4552. Moderate.

Parigl. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. in The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 559-2100. Moderate to expen-

The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 180, in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh Si. 871-7161. Very expensive.

650 North. 650 N. Pearl. 855-1708. Expensive.


Atlantic Cafe. 14866 Montfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive,

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. 526-1170. Expensive.

Dinger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Preston Center. 8411 Preston, Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.

Jozef’s Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in The Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. SX0-1I! I I. Inexpensive to moderate.

Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman, Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.


Aransas Pass. 2912 Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501, Moderate to

Cafe Society. 45I4Travis, Suite 133. 528-6543. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caliente. 6881 Greenville Ave. 369-8600. Moderate,

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive

Loma Luna Cafe. 8201 Preston. Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.

Pecan Grill. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 739-9007. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ruby’s Greenville Avenue Cafe. 1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Moderate,

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 100. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.


Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderale.

White Swan Cafe. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.


Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy.. Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger. off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Morton’s of Chicago. 501 Elm. 741-2277. Expensive.

Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902-8080. Expensive.

Wellington Restaurant & Bar. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.


Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn, Suite A (entrance on Hall i. 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Cafe To Go. 5757 W, Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate,

City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center, Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Dell-News. 500 The Crescent Court. 922-DELI. 15775 Hilicrest. 392-DELI Inexpensive to moderate.

Henk’s European Deli. 5811 Blackwell Street, 987-9090. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. £26-4070. Moderate.

Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Preizler’s Delicatessen. 116 Preston Valley Shopping Center at LBJ. 458-8896. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.


Bangkok City- 4301 Bryan at Peak. 824-6200. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 2415 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 108. 350-8945. Moderate.

Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expwy. (off Park), Piano. 422-5219. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Lotus. 3851-D Cedar Springs. 520-9385. Inexpensive.

Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.

Thai Siam. 9560 Skillman. 341-5835. Inexpensive.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai-Thai. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive

Thai Taste. 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.

Toy’s Cafe. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.


Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut. Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.