Tuesday, March 19, 2024 Mar 19, 2024
41° F Dallas, TX
Advertisement
Publications

RESTAURANTS & BARS

By D Magazine |

BAR ART

This month mosey on over to Terilli’s restaurant on Lower Greenville to see a one-person show by artist Joanne Doren-feld. The exhibit, entitled “Remarkable Places,” features work that was painted in the great outdoors. Dorenfeld is known for selecting interesting locations and then capturing them on canvas. The exhibit goes up Friday, March 6 and runs through April 3. 2815 Greenville Ave., at Goodwin. For information, call 827-3993.



A MAN. A CLARINET AND HIS PIZZA

PEOPLE When he’s not performing with the Dallas Symphony Orchestra, clarinetist Stephen Girko trades in his tux for an apron. As owner of the “Eat My Pizza!” catering business, Girko takes his ingredients on the road, and makes pizza, New York-style, right in your oven. “It’s not Domino’s and it’s not chic, California and weird-with baby this, baby that,” says Girko. “This is real pizza-like the kind I had growing up in the Bronx.” Girko prepares everything ahead of time and tosses it all in the back of a converted 1963 Citroen Deux Chevaux. Each thin-crust pizza, heaped with a pound of mozzerella, plus sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions and roasted red peppers, is baked on a special pizza stone. Afterwards, he serenades the crowd with his clarinet. “I’m not just one of the hired help. I’m the raison d’être for the party.” -Ellise Gunnell

Dining Well in Waxahachie

ON THE ROAD Why would anyone leave the bright lights of Dallas for quiet little Waxahachie? Cheryl and Michael Kirkpatrick did it to switch to a small-town lifestyle, opening a health food shop a block south of the courthouse square. Now, Dallas cognoscenti do it to dine, making the 40-minute drive to compete with locals for one of the 10 tables decked out in white linens. Seems Kirkpatrick, who used to prepare New American fare at The Mansion, the Fairmont Hotel and other suave places, was seduced into cooking again when he stumbled onto a gorgeous old range rescued from the Baker Hotel’s demolition. Word’s spread, and so has his menu, growing beyond the health shop’s regular light lunches to include full-course dinners.



Black bean soup and a Southwest salad, were starring starters the night we were there. Beef tenderloin with sherry-glazed shallots and roasted garlic took top entree honors, closely followed by roasted chicken with tri-color tortellini, artichoke hearts and black olives. Desserts were worth celebrating: melting-rich chocolate mousse cake; a to-die-for blond brownie on caramel sauce; country-innocent peach cobbler. Service was charming right down to uncorking and pouring the wine we’d brought (note: it’s BYOB). The soft-lighted, high-ceilinged setting of Kirkpatrick’s could have been lifted out of a European village. 207 S. College, Waxahachie. (214) 937-0010. Lunch, Mon.-Sat. 11-2; dinner, Thur.-Sat. 6-9.

-Betty Cook

Arnold’s Texas Bar-B-Q: The Smell of Success DISCOVERIES Nothing thrills a foodie like discovering a neat new place to eat before the critics do-my doctor’s staff, normally a fairly sedate group, broke precedent to call me excitedly recommending this one. I already shared their joy, since nothing thrills a critic like seeing a long-vacant space close to home come to life again. And Arnold’s is nothing if not lively-Texans can sniff out a good barbecue restaurant almost be-fore the first hickory -smoked slice is cut, and despite a quiet opening, this one’s been swarmed from Day One with the Baylor complex lunch bunch as well as other business-suited and resident civilian types.

Easy to see why-owners Arnold Sanchez and Don Glasco have been catering pit-barbecue parties together since 1982 and their experience shows in succulent brisket, sliced or chopped to order, and fall-from-the-bone ribs, char-glazed and juicy. Fortunately, the red meats (spicy sausage included) hardly need the house sauce, which is slightly on the sweet side and goes better with the very good, but less moist, smoked turkey and grilled chicken breast.

One other sure-fire traffic-grabber I’ve saved for last: Shortly after opening, Arnold’s added “and Chili Depot” to its outside sign. They weren’t foolin’, folks- the bowl of red you get here is the real thing, as lusty, chunky, build-a-burn deep-flavored as any you’re likely to find anywhere. 601 North Haskell at Worth. 826-1234. Open Mon.-Thur. 11-3:30, Fri. 11-6, Sat. 11-4. -B.C.

CHEAP EATS



MEATBALL MANIA

Well, of course you welcome the fresher, lighter style of Italian cuisine – who wouldn’t? But confess it-the kid in you still gets a comfort kick out of regressing back to childhood’s familiar mealtime favorite, spaghetti and meatballs. Some dependable sources for the best in town:

Cremona Bistro keeps the tradition alive with two oversized meatballs on a large serving of well-sauced spaghetti – served in this family-favored spot’s outdoor garden on fine days. With garlic bread, $6.95. Chelsea Square, 3136 Routh.

Olive Garden has built a cult following in the suburbs with its bottomless salad bowl and soft bread-sticks. Both are complimentary with your platter-sized pasta tangle, topped with a pair of tender meatballs and tomato sauce. $7.75-or take home enough for 12 people for only $20. All locations.

Scalini’s nestles two lightly spiced meatball globes in thick marinara sauce on generously piled helping of spaghetti. The dish comes with a pepper-garnished Italian salad and garlic bread, and they’ll even deliver orders free if you live near the Lakewood location and the tab comes to $8.50 or more. $6.95. 2O21 Abrams.

Terilli’s on Lower Greenville rolls out a trio of toothsome orbs, crowned with a melt of Parmesan, on a bed of al dente angel hair pasta lavished with a spicy, chili-breathed sauce. “For Scott,” the menu says-thanks, Scott, whoever you are. Comes with a salad and warmed baguette chunks, $7.50. 2815 Greenville.

Two Guys From Italy sends no one home hungry-here, you get two meatballs, a large serving of spaghetti and very sturdy (read: garlicky) sauce, plus salad or soup, a beverage and dessert, all for $8.25. 11637 Webb Chapel. -B.C.

NEW RESTAURANTS



Boys Will Be Boys



BOYS TOWN CAFE Looking at the decor of this newest Deep Ellum eatery, one can’t help wondering which came first-the border-bordello concept or the art that illustrates it. Certainly, Irving painter Arnold Vail’s witty wall-high mural is worth building a theme around-its infectiously bawdy inhabitants would wring chuckles from a missionary. And the sensitively rendered portraits of nudes hung here and there in the antique-brick interior illustrate the notion nicely.

On the other hand, owner Jim Lannom, who had lusted after the space since Buffalo Club left it, wanted his casual Mexican restaurant to be a little different from all the others, so maybe the idea was his. It hardly matters-the tongue-in-cheek approach makes Boys Town more nice than naughty.

Which also describes the food on our two visits. The menu is simple with the usual nachos, tacos, enchiladas and a handful of lunch specials-but chef Kelly Hightower transcended the usual in every dish we tried. There was one bobble, a too-thin chile con queso’ that could have passed for soup rather than dip, but its jalapeno-spiked flavor was fine and rich. Everything else was terrific, from robust roasted-pepper salsa verde with warm, greaseless tortilla chips to the only dessert we had room to sample, a fine-textured flan. Chorizo and asadero cheese nachos wore bright-red, fresh jalapeno slices and carried plenty of zing; chicken chipotle soup was authoritatively spiced and loaded with the smoky essence of grilled white meat and vegetables. Another visit’s grilled chicken and tortilla salad was meal-sized, a vast tortilla shell heaped with crisp greens, topped with a succulent sliced chicken breast; its ancho honey vinaigrette, served on the side, moved my companion to little whimpers of joy.

Prime main-dish attractions, besides a lunch-special pair of tomatillo-sauced three-cheese enchiladas as good as I’ve ever tasted, were two house specialties not often featured on Tex-Mex menus. A whole catfish, marinated in Mexican spices and grilled to perfection, came with black beans and a bouquet of fresh-grilled vegetables. My companion’s three lamb tacos al carbon, at $11.95 the priciest item offered, enfolded tender baby-loin slices in velvety flour tacos, complemented with chunky guaca-mole and well-seasoned refried beans.

Service added more plus points to our pleasure on both visits-in this, as in every other aspect we were able to witness and judge, Lannom’s Boys Town is a wickedly delicious discovery. 2723 Elm Street.

748-6414. Lunch, Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30; dinner, Wed.-Thur. 6-12, Fri.-Sat. 6-2 a.m. All credit cards. Inexpensive.

-Betty Cook



A Cafe and More



SWEET TEMPTATIONS This cafe/bakery has been open for more than a year but only started serving a complete dinner menu in the last weeks of 1991. It turns out that full-scale restaurant service was worth the wait, because Sweet Temptations is one of the most outstanding restaurant deals in Dallas. The cozy, little dining room is a surprise after the stark bakery atmosphere in front, and the sophisticated European husband-and-wife team in the kitchen are similarly a surprise, given the down-home welcome from waitresses. The wine list is longer than one might expect from the surroundings, and a half-dozen selections are available by the glass.

Standout appetizers include a crab cake served on a toasted spinach and mushroom salad and a homemade French onion soup lighter in color and flavor than the everyday variety. The choices even get as exotic as a vegetable terrine served with a smoked tomato sauce and a mille-feuille of salmon with a mustard-dill sauce, though these weren’t quite as impressive as the crab cake.

Few restaurants do a good job with grouper-it’s a fish that can easily turn rubbery with overcooking. We were grateful to our server for tipping us to the grouper in a ginger lime sauce here, which proved there is a right way to do everything. The moist and tender fish and its creamy sauce floated on a bed of flavored rice and vegetables. Broiled sirloin in three-peppercorn sauce had a similarly excellent accompaniment in its freshly sautéed potato cubes, but the steak itself could have been more conscientiously trimmed. Similarly, the ratatouille over which the grilled medallions of lamb were served rather outshone the lamb itself-we’d have enjoyed the meat more if it had been served separately rather than with its juices blended with the vegetables. Overall, though, the food can bear comparison with that served in many places charging twice the price. The restaurant also offers a daily lunch special of soup and entree at $5.95, with the interesting-sounding choices changing monthly.

The bakery part of the Sweet Temptations operation, with its year head start, is virtually flawless. We couldn’t agree which of the three rich cakes-chocolate indul gence (with layers of nut crust, toffee and whipped cream); Lake Highlands Rock Cake (with big chunks of crunchy meringue on top); or spectacular coconut cream torte-pleased us the most. The kitchen will also turn out an individual chocolate souffle in 12 minutes, but, good as it is, it can’t compete with the cakes and pastries. The bakery’s breads are memorable, too-we asked for a second basket of the five-seed variety and bought a loaf to take home. 9090 Skillman at Audelia. 503-6007. Tue.- Thur. 7 a.m.-9 p.m.,Fri. 7 a.m.-l0 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m.-l0 p.m., Sun. 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Closed Monday. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L. Taitte



New York Italian, North Dallas-style



RUFFINO’S It used to be that if you lived in mid-North Dallas and wanted to eat dinner out, you had to travel south to McKinney Avenue or north to Addison Road. But lately, this no-man’s neighborhood has been sprouting restaurants like mushrooms, and the residents certainly seem to be supportive of this culinary growth. When we arrived on a Saturday night at Ruffino’s, which had opened only five weeks before, the parking lot was full and so was the restaurant. Inside, every table was taken; we were glad we had called for reservations.

“Neighborhood Italian” in Dallas usually means a red-checked tablecloth and a spaghetti-and-meatballs menu, but Ruffino’s is not typical. It’s more like a New York neighborhood Italian place where they really know what they’re doing. It’s definitely not new-style Italian-they don’t stint on the cream, cheese or butter-but the food is confidently seasoned, well prepared and satisfying.

The menu offers an extensive selection of chicken, meats and fish, as well as pasta. We ate cheese and garlic breads, cut lengthwise and spread thickly with garlic and butter and melted cheese and tomatoes, while we made the important decisions of the meal. (A Ruffino Chianti Classico from the list of mostly Italian and Californian wines was reasonably priced and carried us from appetizer to coffee.)

Starters were promising-linguine dressed with a sun-dried tomato sauce that was a reduced cream, like an alfredo sauce, studded with mushrooms and pleasantly salty tomato bits. The huge pomodoro salad held four thick buffalo mozzarella slices alternating with pastel tomatoes on lettuce, and the pasta with dark puttanesca sauce was pungent and gutsy with pepper and anchovy, though unfortunately not as hot temperature-wise as we would have wished. Tortellini came in a tomato sauce nearly as dark as the puttanesca.

Entrees were overwhelming after the heavy first course. Veal parmigiana was unfortunately smothered with too much tomato sauce and melted cheese-the texture of the veal was overtenderized and mushy under the thick blanket of toppings. The rack of lamb special in a port sauce didn’t please one companion, though I thought the fruity wine complemented the meat. The same sauce over beef medallions was a better match. Orange roughy was “fresh frozen” the waiter told us when we asked; nevertheless it was well cooked, moist and flavorful. All the entrees came with a vegetable and sautéed potatoes.

As far as desserts go, the crème caramel was light but bubbly (too hot an oven), but the cannoli was the real thing, the crisp tube overflowing with sweetened ricotta. Anyway, after such a meal, who needed dessert-espresso was a much better way to cap off the evening. 11661 Preston, Suite 153 (Preston Forest Village Shopping Center). 890-7555. All credit cards. Moderate.

-Mary Brown Malouf

A Gallic Retreat

Le caviste Chalk up a point for Gallic resourcefulness-when Jean and Claire Rubede learned they couldn’t call their new Lovers Lane restaurant La Cave (legally the name still belonged to the now-defunct La Cave), they smoothly side stepped to Le Caviste, which refers to the cave keeper rather than the cave itself. One visit to the new restaurant explains the choice of moniker: The decor dictated it, with floor-to-ceiling wooden wine-rack walls, a brick archway and vast fireplace setting a wine-cellar scene for cozy white-tablecloth dining. The ambience and service are comfortably unintimidating.

So is the food, which is mostly country French and reasonably priced. Dinner entrees range from $9 to $14,50 including a salad and vegetables, and a nicely varied wine list includes in-the-teens selections as well as half-a-dozen by-the-glass offerings daily. Chef Scott Allen, who is also a co-owner, is American, but he spent a good part of his life in France, trained under French chef Roger Verge and cooked at Saint Emilion in Fort Worth before coming to Dallas to open Le Caviste. His menu emphasizes classic dishes; those we tried were commendably fresh, generously served and-apart from a tendency to underseason, especially in sauces-very well prepared.

Friand of crab, for instance, held a fortune in flaked crab meat within its tender puff pastry folds, but the champagne-basil sauce that should have given the rather dry shellfish moist zing had no herbal presence at all. Likewise, the bell pepper sauce with white wine mentioned with an entree, tuna Basquaise, suggested more flavor than it delivered; I suppose the “Basquaise” should have warned me not to expect a creamed essence, but the dominant flavor here was of olive oil despite the chunks of bell pepper, tomato and onion ladled over the huge cut of fish. A fresh fish soup, on the other hand, was not only underseasoned but had apparently been blendered to texturelessness and would have been tasteless as well except for the grated Swiss cheese and sturdy aioli and croutons that came with it.

So much for the negatives. A country paté starter was flawless, studded with pistachios, alive with flavors even without its complementary corníchons, nicoise olives and tart dried apricots. Shrimps remoulade were big beauties, their lively sauce an irresistible dressing on the plate’s red cabbage leaf garnish as well as on the shrimp themselves. Brie soup gratinée was soul-satisfyingly rich; a wealth of sliced mushrooms adding intrigue to its smooth texture. The house salad, unannounced on the menu, came chilled super-crisp, with a grain mustard dressing, served on the side, that anointed it with distinction.

Our two best entrees, ribeye and roast duck, were both better served by their sauces than the aforesaid tuna, although both would have been wonderful with no sauce at all. The ribeye, crisp-seared without and meltingly tender within, came with a deep-flavored bordelaise; the half-duck’s succulence mated happily with black currant sauce. Baby green beans, barely sautéed, and herbed potatoes were a plus on the main-dish plates.

Desserts were disparate. Oddly, a scoop of chocolate mousse laid naked on its plate was far more exciting than a rather coarse grained sponge cake gussied up with strawberry filling and leathery chocolate icing on sabayon sauce. Espresso was fine, as was our whole dining experience, flaws and all. In retrospect: Le Caviste is clearly meant to be one of those relaxing places that make it easy to linger and talk later than you meant to-we did. In a town where most restaurants measure their success in the number of times they can turn a table per evening, that’s a powerful plus indeed. 5405 W. Lovers Lane. 352-6512. Lunch, Mon.-Sat. 11:30-2; dinner, Mon.- Thur. 6-10, Fri.-Sat. 6-11. All credit cards. Moderate. -B. C.



Ambitious Tex-Mex Heads Uptown



LA SUPREMA. When the owners of La Supreme Tortilleria decided to go uptown, they did so with a vengeance. Important elements of the original tortilleria’s charm are its tiny setting in a remote part of the city and its quirky, improvised decor. Now the proprietors have opened a much larger and more ambitious restaurant, La Suprema-in the movie studios at Las Colinas. The rear end of the new place backs up to the big sound stage, and glamour is in the air. Weekend evenings there is even entertainment (we encountered a subtle singer/guitarist who was pleasant and not overbearing).

Some elements of the operation fit the new location far more easily than the older one-the health-food aspect, especially, seems to chime right in with these glitzier surroundings. Both restaurants offer tortillas made out of all sorts of trendy foodstuffs and redubbed “nutritillas”; in fact, you can also buy these products in markets all over the city. The Suprema Mexican plate is vegetarian, with mix-and-match choices off the menu. We sampled a combo including spinach enchiladas in a picante green sauce, a mushroom taco and a black-bean tamale. The trouble is, a lot of these things really don’t taste too good. La Suprema’s tamales, for instance, do seem to be much healthier than normal ones-which means they are made with less fat in the dough and tend to be tough and tasteless. Other fancy innovations, like the lamb fajitas that turn out to have a smallish quantity of overcooked, chewy meat, aren’t as much fun as they sound, either.

Still, there are plenty of good things to eat at La Suprema. All those weird-sounding nutritillas are sheer heaven when fried up as tostadas (the superbly thick and crunchy ones are made from flax seed). Anything made from them or served with them is likely to be a treasure. The black-bean and cheese nachos, for instance, are among the best in town, thanks to the fresh, crisp underpinnings. The shrimp ceviche tostada, marinated in lime juice and cilantro and spiked with tiny pieces of fresh hot pepper, will put you in mind of sun and surf in Acapulco. Another fine treatment of shrimp, sautéed in a powerful garlic sauce, also deserves mention, though like much else in these health-conscious environs the crustaceans could have used a bit more salt. You will also find regulation Tex-Mex offerings like cheese enchiladas and chicken quesadillas executed with flair.

La Suprema offers an unusually wide selection of desserts for a Mexican restaurant. The safest is Ben and Jerry’s Chunky Monkey ice cream, either by itself or topping flambéd bananas or plaintaíns. The flan, alas, can be tough and porous, and the strawberry tofu concoction they serve here is a cheesecake in name only. 6311 N. O’Connor in the Studios at Las Colinas, Irving. 506-0988. Mon.-Thur. 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri. 10-10, Sat. 11:30-10. All credit cards. Moderate. -W.L.T.



D REVISITS



BURGERS



D Revisits State Bar. In sync with its bohemian Fair Park neighborhood. State Bar is a place where most of the women wear black hats and three-pound shoulder-dusters, and the DJ-spun musical diet ranges from cool jazz to sear ing industrial. But listen-the food brought to booths op posite the narrow room’s long, dark bar is surprisingly good. Surprisingly varied, too. considering that it’s almost all grilled. Quesadillas (called simply Que on the menu) were so plumply filled with spinach, fresh mushrooms and tomato that their mozzarella couldn’t glue it all together. My blue cheese baconburger, one of half-a-dozen orchestrations of fered, was a big ol’ thang, too thick to pick up. too yummy for me not to try. My companion’s chicken breast was tender and moist, its smoky flavor testifying to the authenticity of its tattoo of grill marks, and the heap of grilled squash, carrot sticks, bell pepper and cauliflowerets that accompanied it were crisply toothsome. Our one disappointment was bat tered fries, which were prettily glazed but greasy. It hardly mattered-we hadn’t the room anyhow, let alone for the cheesecake that’s the only dessert offered. And I guess the grease wouldn’t have hurt us; health-conscious State Bar uses only peanut oil for frying. Service, though exceeding ly casual, was equally accommodating-on the whole, we had a laid-back. Harley-watching good time. 3611 Parry Avenue. 821-9246. Inexpensive. -B.C.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

D Revisits Chez Gerard. This very French comfort station continues to be one of the city’s happier dining retreats-unaggressively gracious as to ambience, profes sionally polished as to service as well as food preparation. The star starter on our last visit was a day’s special of lamb sausage sautéed with apple wedges and served on a superb truffle-studded demiglace. Fresh goose liver cost twice as much but delivered less satisfaction-the satiny petals were elegant, but there were too few of them for the rich raisin sauce that flooded the plate. A pricey entree of Dover sole with lemon butter was outclassed by a humbler one of veal sweetbreads sautéed to butter-smoothness with garlic, parsley and tomatoes: roasted pigeon was splendid, the dark meat rare and rosy under taut, crisp skin on olive-garnished sauce. The fine spill of baby vegetables accompanying each was better, actually, than either dessert we tried- profiteroles were a trifle soggy, although their chocolate sauce was superior: and a praline souffle tasted almost en tirely of egg fluff, sans the expected caramel flavor. Even the disappointments here, though, are minor, thanks to the sun nily refined tone of the place, which as always made after- dinner lingering a pleasure. 4444 McKinney. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive. -B.C.



D Revisits The Grape. Celebrating its 20th anniver sary this year. The Grape shows that what it takes to survive in a competitive market is starting out good and continual ly getting better. That old standby. The Grape’s famous fresh mushroom soup, certainly merits the allegiance of two decades worth of diners. But so does the more newfangled Southwestern-style cocktail sauce served with the delicate pan-fried crab cakes. We sampled the priciest of the entrees-a stuffed veal chop that cost nearly $20-and found it worth every penny. The outside was perfectly browned without that hard surface that betrays a careless hand in the kitchen, and the flesh was perfectly tender and juicy. That description doesn’t even take into account the rich stuffing of Texas goat cheese, crunchy with nuts and dried cranber ries and redolent of garlic and rosemary. Beside such a masterpiece, even the tasty black tiger shrimp in tomato and provolone sauce over pasta paled in comparison. The desserts-Jack Daniel’s chocolate-pecan pie and warm bread pudding, heavy on the cinnamon, floating in a pool of crème anglaise-managed to rise to the level of what had come before. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981, Moderate to expen sive. -W.L.T.



GREEK



D Revisits Kosta’s Cafe. God bless the Greeks for loving lemons. My companion, who had never before sampled avgolemono, the egg-and-lemon soup with rice that is a Greek staple, was so carried away he hardly wanted to take time out to share my generous starter of oil-drizzled taramosalata, the creamy Greek caviar. Hot pita wedges made that irresistible as well, and we could easily have skipped entrees, but didn’t. His roast lamb was tender and silken, albeit rather overcooked, and my day’s-special sautéed flounder came as two huge fillets, succulently lemon-sauced. We finished neither, since they shared our at tention with peppery roasted potato and fresh green beans. but we savored it all. along with happy Greek music and car ing service. 4914 Greenville Avenue. 987-3225. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



HOME COOKING



D Revisits Mama’s Daughters’ Diner. The line out the door moves quickly so don’t be dismayed-you can eat here on anyone’s lunch hour. The hostess with a water pistol around her neck places you at the first available table-whisked clean so fast the seats are still warm. This is Southern cooking at its purest and finest-the golden crisp crust on the fried chicken is just starting to wilt under a blanket of white gravy that also covers the scoop of mashed potatoes. The green beans are really stewed with thick bits of bacon, and the corn muffins are not the sweet crumbly kind but pale and moist. Chicken-fried steak is just under-seasoned {everything is to my taste), and yeast rolls are fragrant, brown outside and doughy inside. Washed down with quarts of tea and served with brusque efficiency by friendly waitresses, this is a lunch that will last you. By the way, order your dessert at the beginning of the meal-the pies go last. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646 Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



D Revisits Vice Versa. This is a rather odd combina tion of tearoom (gazebo green and white trellis) and coffee shop (vinyl booths) hidden away on the back side of Preston Center. The cafeteria line is brief but rewarding-your choice of homemade sandwiches, chicken-fried steak (large or small portions, peppery and tender, lopped with white gravy) or the daily specials (on our visit, a broccoli-rice- cheese casserole or very good smoky red beans and rice). Lovers of lumpy mashed potatoes, this is your spud. The green beans may have seen the inside of a can but the thick bacon and slivered onions that flavored them covered any past sins. The black-eyed peas were undoubtedly fresh and not even overcooked. Huge yeast rolls, the crumbly corn muffin and the desserts were not as good as you have the right to expect-chocolate pie had a pasty texture and the meringue a strange tartness while the buttermilk pie was too sweet, even for me. 6065 Sherry Lane. 691-2976 Inexpen sive. -M.B.M.



ITALIAN



D Revisits Rodolfo’s. I’m fond of Rodolfo’s, a neighborhood Italian place in not-very-North Dallas. The exuberant service always pleases-our extraordinarily mustachioed waiter happily saw to our every wish including extra garlic on the pasta. On this visit, the special of veal chop with pesto was enormous and as pleasing as a simple, perfectly cooked pasta tossed only with garlic and olive oil. The focaccia bread with rosemary and Parmesan was hot and fragrant, and the pizzas-especially the white one-are excellent. Spinach ricotta dumplings are always a favorite here and the light and vegetarian selections are as flavorful as the regular ones, so you can eat without guilt . 5956 Royal Lane. 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate. -M. B. M.



MEXICAN



D Revisits Cantina Laredo. The food at the original Addison location has had its ups and downs over the years- but currently the kitchen is once again among the best purveyors of Mexican food in the city. We started out festively, with a margarita and that zestiest of Mexican appetizers, ceviche. It was hard to tell which of the two had the larger doses of lime juice and salt, but both were certainly bold and authentic. The menu offers lots of grilled specialties, and you can order them separately or in mixed assortments. By all means sample the quail, one of the best treatments of the tricky-to-cook little birds we’ve found-juicy and succulent. The costillas (short ribs) are also excellent-not overly sweet, as you find at some places-but the cabrito sadly only confirmed our experience that no Dallas restaurant knows how to cook this Mexican delicacy. The Tex-Mex staples include outstanding tamales and fine cheese enchiladas. And be sure to leave room for desserts, because Cantina Laredo serves up knockouts: the long, fritter-like churros, heavily sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, and hot apple pie with brandy sauce and ice cream. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate. -W.L.T.



D Revisits Mario & Alberto. The crowds even on chilly weekday evenings demonstrate that excellent food and reasonable prices can still ensure success in the restaurant business over the long haul. The kitchen keeps up interest by offering rotating “new” menus. From one of these we sampled two unusual and extraordinary dishes. The rajas con crema appetizer-strips of poblano pepper and zucchini simmered in cream and Mexican cheese, then rolled in flour tortillas-proved that veggies can be delicious indeed. The chile relleno à la licha is nothing like the usual version- this pepper is stuffed with Linares cheese then cooked in a casserole of white rice and a confetti of chopped vegetables. Old favorites like the filete de la casa (tenderloin of beef topped with a green sauce containing plenty of garlic) and cheese enchiladas offer good value too. And the desserts (ex cept for a rather grainy flan) are uniquely attractive- especially the flavorful coconut ice cream. LBJ Freeway at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate. -W.L.T.



TAKEOUT/DELI

D Revisits Crescent Gourmet. I’m not a regular fan of upscale takeout places-their food. I’ve found, hardly ever tastes as good as it looks, and is often overpriced to boot. This one, though, disarmed me completely-the serve-yourself refrigerated displays of sandwiches and salads are clearly named and moderately priced: even the daily- changing hot-lunch specials struck me as inexpensive. More importantly, almost everything we sampled lived up to its visual attraction, the one exception being fried okra, which I’d hoped would be better than elsewhere but which was not. Chicken cilantro salad was. though, its ceviche-like tartness an uncommon delight. Potato salad held more boiled egg man potato in its rather soupy mayonnaise-mustard dressing, and not nearly enough celery crunch, but its flavor made fine accompaniment to a baguette sandwich stacked with seven layers of ham and cheese. Herbed tuna with Swiss cheese on focaccia bread was delicately seasoned if too-smoothly tex tured. Hot roast pork loin, priced by the slice, was suc- culently moist and peppery. Our two desserts, too, were prime-a two-layer fresh strawberry cake flowered with whipped cream, and a cherry tart any home cook would have been proud to claim. The counter staff was not only patient and well organized, but generous as well-we found upwards of a dozen fresh-baked wheat rolls, individually wrapped, flung in for lagniappe when we unpacked our spread, and finished feeling that budget-wise as well as gastronomically, we’d made out like bandits: the check totaled only $30. 400 Crescent Court, Suite 150. 871-3223, fax 871-3260. Inexpen sive. -B.C.



THAI



D Revisits New Siam. The genealogy of this place goes all the way back to Dallas’ first Thai restaurant, Siam, and that may confuse those with long memories. Because the changes in ownership and kitchen staff over the years have meant comparably large changes in the style of cooking. Im perial spring rolls, for instance, are now much more like long, skinny Chinese egg rolls than the delicate creations wrapped in paper-thin skins that used to be served here. But the changes in style are not necessarily for the worse. The beef curry mussaman, for instance, now boasts a thicker, more flavorful sauce, fiery with hot pepper and studded with peanuts. Some things, blessedly, haven’t changed much at all. The sweet-and-sour shrimp still combines an intense flavor with a lightness of touch, and the pad Thai (rice noodles stir-fried with pork, egg. shrimp and ground nuts) is still unbeatable. New Siam is also an interesting place to sample Thai desserts, especially the two styles of rice pud ding. 2415 Willowbrook, Suite 108 (at Northwest Highway and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Moderate. -W.L.T.



RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMENDS



BARBECUE

Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.

Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. 302 N. Market. 744-1610. Inexpensive.



BRITISH

Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.

Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market. Suite 105. 761-9355. Inexpensive.

BURGERS



Allen Street Bar & Grill. 2900 McKinney Ave. 871-0256.

Balls Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. Inexpensive.

Club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Drive. 902-7990. Inexpensive.

Deep Elmer’s. 2615 Commerce. 748-9898. Inexpensive.

8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

The Green Elephant Bar and Grill. 5612 Yale. 520-6625.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive

Snuffers. 3526 Greenville Ave 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.

Starlight Diner. 2715 Elm 747-STAR. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.



CAJUN



Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Caballo Bayo Bar & Grill. 3904 Stemmons. 630-1253. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy., Suite 101, Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood & Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Road. Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.

Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen. 3520 Oak Lawn. 521-4700. Moderate to expensive.

Red’s Cajun Queen. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-9777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive to moderate.



CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICAN



Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.



CHINESE



August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy, Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Plano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.

Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.

Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

Elm St. Shang-Hai. 2807 Elm St. 651-8988. Moderate.

First Chinese Barbecue. 111 S. Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

Grand Taipei. 216 W. Campbell. Richardson. 907-1027. Moderate.

Henry Chen’s. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 956-9560. Moderate.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Suite 200 Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

Hunan Restaurant. 5214 Greenville. 369-4578. Inexpensive to moderate.

RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMENDS



May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Pacific Garden. 4527 Travis. 522-6868. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200. Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner, Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza. 321-7599. Moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut. Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Texas Jade. 3227 McKinney Ave. 871-8898. Moderate.

Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy., in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.



ETHIOPIAN

Dallul. 2515 Inwood. 353-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.

River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Addison Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Dallas. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane, Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Epicure Highland Park. 69 Highland Park Village. 520-8501. Moderate to expensive.

Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 502.233-8855. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel, 2927 Maple. 871-2523. Expensive.

The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.

Juniper. 2917 Fairmount. 855-0700. Expensive.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0183. 628 NorthPark Center. 696-2398. Inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.

Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

St. Martins. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.

Waters. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN

Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466 Expensive.

Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3840 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross. 821-3121. Inexpensive.

GREEK

Cafe Greek. Preston Valley Shopping Center. Preston Road at L.BJ. 934-9767. Moderate.

Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.

Greek Bistro. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.



HOME COOKING

Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. In-expensive to moderate.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Moderate.

Chubby’s. 11333 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6065.

Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.

Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.

Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. 14905 Midway. Addison. 392-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Road. 327-3663. Lincoln Plaza. 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126 Inexpensive.

Original Market Diner. 4434 Harry Hines. 521-0992. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. 111 S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.



INDIAN

Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Belt Line. Preston-wood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston. Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village. Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.

Shusmi. 859 N.E. Green Oaks. Arlington. (817) 860-8728. Moderate.

Ta| Mahal. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.



IRISH

Tipperary Inn. 2818 Greenville Ave. 823-7167. Inexpensive.



ITALIAN

Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Expensive.

Cafe Italia. 2720 Stemmons Frwy. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane. Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Inexpensive.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd.. in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Moderate.

Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave.. in The Brewery. 954-1112. Moderate to expensive.

Hip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

La Trattoria Lombardi’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.

Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Lane. 361 -6984. Inexpensive to moderate.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place. Suite CI06 in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mi Piaci. 14854 Montfort. 934-8424. Moderate to expensive.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lane. Suite A2. 234-6800. 2704 Elm St. 748-4222. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 370, Plano. 423-1066. Moderate.

MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate.

Piccola Cucina. 1030 NorthPark Center. Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011 4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Portobello Restaurant. 2150 N. Josey Lane. Carrollton 245-8022. Moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Belt Line. Addison. 386-3831. Moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741 -0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. 15101 Addison Road. Addison. 960-2606. Moderate.

Sweet Basil. 17610 Midway. 733-1500. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.



JAPANESE



Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Steak House. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 360. Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 101. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line. Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.



KOREAN



Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood,351-6922. Moderate.

Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. 272-9909. Inexpensive to moderate.

Koreans. 12101 Greenville Ave.. #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.



MEDITERRANEAN



Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy.. in the Grand Kerns pinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.

Sambuca. 2618 Elm St. 744-0820. Moderate.



MEXICAN

Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston, #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Chuy’s. 211 N. Record. 747-2838. Moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

El Asadero. 1516 Greenville Ave. 826-0625. Inexpensive to moderate.

El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to Moderate.

Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.

Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis, Suite 105. 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. Preston Park Village, 1900 Preston, Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 Westchester. 890-9939. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ml Cocina. 11661 Preston, Suite 138. 265-7704. Inexpensive.

Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive to moderate.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest. 521-4456. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. 3100 Independence Pkwy., Piano. 596-6744. Inexpensive.



MIDDLE EASTERN

Ali Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Inexpensive.



NATURAL

Agnew’s Natural Grill. 3011 Routh St. 720-3900. Moderate to expensive.

Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.



NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle. 500 Crescent Court, Suite 165. 855-0440. Expensive.

Aransas Pass. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.

Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.

Avner’s. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Moderate.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Moderate to expensive.

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Buffalo Club. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 12S. in the Quadrangle. 748-2400 Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.

City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.

The Conservatory. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3242. Very expensive.

Crockett’s. Doubletree Hotel at Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 701-5160. Expensive.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.

Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West. 1590 LBJ Frwy. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 170. in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. Westin Hotel. Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit Drive. off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Very expensive.

Nana Grill. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7470. Expensive to very expensive.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. in The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St., Suite 180. in the Quadrangle. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

Simply Fondue. 2108 Greenville Ave. 827-8878. Moderate.

650 North. 650 N. Pearl. 855-1708. Expensive.



SEAFOOD



Atlantic Cafe. 14866 Montfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Cafe America. 4546 McKinney Ave. 559-4441. Expensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. 526-1170. Expensive.

Dinger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600. Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Preston Center. 8411 Preston. Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.

Josef’s Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in The Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate. Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman, Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.



SOUTHWESTERN



Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. in Sakowitz Village, Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501. Moderate to expensive.

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.

Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011 8201 Preston. Suite 100 {at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate

Ruby’s Greenville Avenue Cafe. 826-4910. Moderate.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. Suite 100. 855-2233Moderate to expensive.

Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.



SPANISH

Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.

White Swan Cafe. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.



STEAKS

Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy. . Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902-8080. Expensive.

Wellington Restaurant & Bar. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.



TAKEOUT/DELI

Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn. Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Cafe To Go. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate.

City Market. 2001 Ross. Trammell Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Deli News. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.

Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. 127 Preston Forest Village. 373-3333. Inexpensive to moderate.

Henk’s European Deli. 5811 Blackwell Street. 987-9090. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.

Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.



THAI

Bangkok City. 4301 Bryan at Peak. 824-6200. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expwy. (off Park), Plano. 422-5219. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Lotus. 3851-D Cedar Springs. 520-9385. Inexpensive.

Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.

Thai Siam. 9560 Skillman. 341-5835. Inexpensive.

Thai-Thai. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai Taste. 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.

Toy’s Cafe. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.



VIETNAMESE

Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut. Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cafe de Saigon. 5617 W. Lovers Lane. 350-8767. Moderate.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mai’s Cuisine. 4814 Greenville Ave. 739-5424. Inexpensive.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES

Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams, Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate to expensive.

Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 910, Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur. Irving. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St.. Grapevine. Metro 817-481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspar’s. (New American) 150 S. Demon Tap Road. Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd.. Suite 301. Irving 869-4011. Moderate.

La Margarita. (Mexican) 3636 N. Belt Line. Irving. 570-1137. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza. Arlington. Metro 817-261-6604. Moderate.

Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.



FORT WORTH

Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.

Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.

Kincaid’s. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)731-6961. Moderate.

Jons Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.

Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

Ristorante La Piazza. (Italian) 3431 West Seventh. (817) 334-0000. Moderate to expensive.

Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.

Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive.

Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.

Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.

Water Street Seafood Co. (Seafood) 1540 S. University Drive. (817) 877-3474. Moderate.



NIGHTLIFE

The Art Bar. 2803-05 Main. 701-3434.

Club Dada. 2720 Elm St.. at Crowdus. 744-3232.

Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill at Stemmons Frwy. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill, at North Central Expwy. 361-5553.

Exodus. 210 N. Crowdus. 748-7871.

Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600 (in The Corner Shopping Center). 750-5868. 4980 Belt Line at Quorum. Suite 250. Addison. 404-8503.

The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151

The Lounge. 5460 W. Lovers Lane. 350-7834.

Memphis. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 500. 386-9934.

Related Articles

Image
Business

At Parkland Health, the End of Subjective Surgery

Artificial intelligence is helping trauma surgery teams make data-based decisions about when to operate at Dallas County's safety net hospital.
Advertisement