TASTING THE TOWN
The Cream of the crèmes: FLANS, CUSTARDS AND CRèME BR LéE
You’ve noticed, of course, the striking similarities among homey comfort foods of different cultures. Our beloved grilled cheese sandwich, for instance, is kissin’ cousin to Mexico’s que-sadilla. Their enchilada equates with France’s cream-sauced crêpes as well as China’s moo shu pork favorite. Besides the ubiquitous chicken soup, however, perhaps the most endur-ingly in-common dish of all is the one we grew up calling custard-and still, in any language, call on for comfort when a yearning for simple delight overtakes us. The various versions mentioned here are listed in ascending order according to price.
Luby’s Cafeteria’s baked custard will take you back to carefree childhood if anything can-slip-down smooth and vanilla-scented, it’s a milk-and-eggs American basic every kindergartener learned to love. Just 78 cents in Prestonwood Mall.
Zuius just-as-classic flan wears a gentle wash of thin, browned caramel syrup to complement its petal-tender texture and delicate vanilla flavor. $1.89, tax included, at 6423 Hillcrest.
Theodore’s galaktobouriko is impossible to spell, but divinely easy to love. The custard in question here is lemon-breathed, shaped by fragile puff pastry into a tiny little pillow from paradise, topped with a sweetening drizzle of amber honey, $3 in the Corner Shopping Center, Walnut Hill at N. Central.
Mi Casa’s flan br?lée is wrongly named, but rightly celebrated; the generous slice of vanilla flan is rolled in a skin-thin crisping of bread crumbs and pecans, then fried-not broiled-to golden perfection and anointed with deep-flavored caramel. $3.25 at 8301 Westchester, Preston Center West.
Javier’s may turn the best-loved Mexican flan in town out of its traditionally shaped shallow cups-aficionados swear by its light-as-air smoothness, and nobody objects to this version’s beyond-the-traditional accompaniment of ice cream, sliced almonds and heady Kahlua topping. $4.75 with ice cream, $3.95 without, at 4912 Cole Avenue.
The Riviera’s crème br?lée competes with other top restaurants in town in the most-extravagant category of custards, and comes up winner among moneyed flan-lovers with its hang-the-cholesterol, dozen-eggs-in-your-face version, a satiny indulgence strewn with fresh baby berries and topped with the barest glaze of torched sugar. $6 at 7709 Inwood, off Lovers Lane.
-Betty Cook
ON THE ROAD
The Secret Garden
Talk to your plants, they say? Regina Sterling’s talk to her. she claims, demanding more or less water, complaining when they’re chilled or crowded, behaving in general as if her mission in life is to keep them contented. Which it is. For three years now, Regina and her husband, Carl, have made a career of listening to the 27 varieties of fresh herbs and greens they grow year-round on their 18-acre Blue Cottage Herb Farm. Weekdays are spent tending, harvesting and making deliveries to the upscale area restaurants that are the backbone of their business. Saturdays. though, the farm becomes a dining destination in its own right, offering a select group of enthusiasts-24, to be exact-a unique culinary adventure. Guests are welcorned at 5:15, then wander through green house aisles fragrant with basil, sage, rose mary, arugula and almost every other edi ble herb known to gastronomes, The five- course dinner, served on pastel-draped tables in the blue cottage for which the farm is named, is herbally symphonic, from fresh-herb centerpieces to vegetables, meats, bread, even tea subtly sparked with herbal accents. The Saturday soirees are a book-ahead ticket despite the drive (45 miles southeast of Dallas, five miles past Kaufman). Cost is $21.40 per person. For reservations and directions, call (903) 498- 4234. And if you really want to make a rural weekend of it, you might be lucky enough to book the farm’s one bed-and- breakfast room. -B.C.
BARS
Paradise Found
Everyone who has ever wished he or she could tell Sam to play it again will enjoy the Paradise Club and Grill. As much a stage set as a restaurant. Paradise is owned by Keith McKeague (who also owns the Granada) along with David Slaughterbeck and Dr. Terry Watson. One assumes they have seen Casablanca a hundred times. From the rosy, fringed lampshades on each table to the fake palm trees reaching to the ceiling. Paradise is an illusion of cinematic days gone by when men wore dinner jackets and smoking a cigarette was a seductive act. The food has a tropical twist. Soon Paradise will feature a ’40s-style revue; right now, Thursday through Saturday evenings and Sunday at brunch, there’s a singer and a piano player-between sets there are Betty Boop and Three Stooges shorts on the big screen.
If you don’t check it out. you’ll be sorry. Maybe not today and maybe not tomor row, but soon and for the rest of, well, the week anyway. 2920 N. Henderson. 821- 9200. -Mary Brown Malouf
New Restaurants
Son of Zanzibar
CAFE 450 Zanzibar burned to the walls a year ago, but now there are two restaurants filling the niche it once had to itself, both incredibly similar to each other, and to the late Zanzibar. Z-Bar opened in Zanzibar’s old location; Cafe 450, owned by a former Zanzibar manager, is farther down on Greenville.
Cafe 450 is a long, deep room with brick walls and tin ceilings, filled with hip people and strange art on the wails. You might think you were a mile to the north in ZBar. Here’s how to tell them apart: Cafe 450 has lavender booths; Z-Bar’s are dark green. Cafe 450 has a large patio out front; Z-Bar has the Bubble Room next door. The brick walls at Cafe 450 are gray; those at Z-Bar are smoke-stained.
Both, however, have blackboard menus which focus on pasta and sandwiches. Cafe 450 also has a winning appetizer plate of spreadably soft roasted garlic, fresh goat cheese with roasted walnuts and fruit. Crab claws, the little, frozen kind, were much better than these usually are, sizzling in garlic butter with bits of purple onion and mushroom. Ceviche with fresh snapper, scallops and shrimp was tart with lime but tasted mainly of hot pepper.
Entrees come with soup or salad-the house salad was a mix of cold leaves topped with sludgy, red sun-dried tomato vinaigrette that tasted fine but was hard to mix into the greens. Shrimp diablo was very spicy, but heat was the only flavor-I had never realized before that food can be hot and bland at the same time. The grilled chicken breast was just that, with nothing but a baked potato and some vegetables to enliven me old standard.
The kitchen seems to direct most of its originality to the pasta and sandwiches, complicated concoctions with at least half a dozen ingredients. The best pasta we tried was a mix of spinach tortellini in sun-dried tomato pesto with nuggets of chicken, red peppers, olives, squash and walnuts-a wonderful combination of textures. The “Po” Orphan Annie {ain’t got no meat)’” sandwich was a grocery list of vegetables-grilled tomato, red bell pepper, zucchini, squash and onion-piled with Cheddar and Swiss cheeses on focaccina bread, which tasted like a chewy hamburger bun. It was great. So was the “Father Sarducci,” a hearty Italian sandwich that tasted like pizza, stuffed with sausage, ham, mushrooms, bell peppers, olives and onions in marinara. Desserts were not exciting-the pale chocolate mousse is identical to the one served at Z-Bar- though the crème caramel was a creditable version. Service was flaky on our first visit, efficient on our second. 1802 Greenville Ave. 826-6229. Tues.-Wed. ll:30a.m.-midnight; Thur. 11:30-1 a.m., Fri.-Sat. 11:30-2 a.m Sun. 10:30-midnight. Brunch served Sal. and Sun. until 4 p.m. AE, DC, MC, V.
-Mary Brown Malouf.
Asian Delights
YOUNG SUING Name every standard American-known Chinese dish you’ve ever had or heard of-and you’ll still be only halfway through Young Shing’s enormous menu; the last half runs the gamut of particularly authentic specialties, from soups and hot pots to exotic seafoods, with English translations for the benefit of the restaurant’s other-than-Asian clientele from surrounding neighborhoods. As if that weren’t enough, dim sum is served daily at lunch from a listing of almost 50 items on weekdays and from circulating carts on weekends.
More astonishingly still, every dish we were able to sample in two zipper-splitting visits was rewarding. Fried dumplings, while not the soft-on-one-side potstickers I’d assumed them to be, were crisp and plumply filled with lean pork. Watercress soup was beautiful, if bland, in clear chicken slock. Roasted duck. Young Shing style, was a finely diced blend of dark, tender duck meat with crisp carrots, celery, scallions and water chestnuts, saved from dryness by the snapping-crisp lettuce leaves served with it for wrapping into finger-friend]y morsels. Star turn was a platter of sizzling oysters-the largest I can remember seeing anywhere-abundantly blessed with a zippy ginger and scallion sauce.
That was on a Saturday evening. Infected by the manager’s enthusiastic invitation to return for Sunday’s parade of dim sum goodies, we did-and lived to regret it. Not because of the food, which God knows was wonderful, but because the touted cart service stopped without warning almost an hour before we’d been told it would, leaving us still longing for some of the goodies we’d wanted to try. Our insistence on ordering them from the menu did not please servers, who were apparently impatient to vacuum floors and reset tables for the post-dim sum trade, which they proceeded to do while we waited and finally received our à la carte items. They were worth the wait-a lotus-leaf pouch added delicate perfume to the sticky rice and pork bits it enfolded; and shrimp fun rolls-pink nuggets loosely wrapped in pearly rice noodle sheets-were splendidly succulent. The cart items we’d managed to snare were fine, too-scarlet-edged bites of barbecued pork; shredded taro root stuffed with minced shrimp and fried potato-chip crisp; whole shrimp blanketed in lavender taro paste, delicately soft inside a gossamer crisp-golden skin. Curried squid, tender ribbons gilded with a haunt of curry, were particularly outstanding, and desserts-a seed-coated sweet sesame ball and a square of coconut cake that was mostly soft meringue-offered interesting departure from the commonplace.
All in all, in fact, I don’t know when I’ve seen such a multi-talented display of Asian delights. Liquor is not served, but the jasmine tea is fine, and service proba bly is, too, most of the time-just be sure you go well before 1 o’clock on weekends if it’s dim sum you’re after. 3701 W. Walnut St., Garland. 487-1188. Mon.-Thur. 10a.m.-!0 p.m., Fri. 10a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.- Sun. 9 a.m.-ll p.m. AE, MC, V. Inexpensive. -Betty Cook
Good Sports
DAYTONA’S GRILL AND BAR Two incarnations ago, when mis creekside setting housed a seafood place, a couple of raccoons used to wander from the woods onto the glass-walled deck to beg for leftovers. Do they still, I wonder? If they do, they’re eating a good deal better. I’d say-Day-tona’s offers more variety, for one thing. An American-style sports bar with one foot in Greece, the restaurant serves an array of snacks, burgers, pizzas and grilled entrees: all we tried were better than the menu’s modest prices led us to expect. Oysters on the half-shell were juicy-fresh, their cocktail sauce nicely textured. Baked crab claws, fair-sized and firm-fleshed, wore their garlic butter well. Dolmas were among the best I’ve tasted, warm and lemony, the grape leaves plump with excellent ground beef. Grilled chicken salad lavished lean but moist breast strips on a Greek-styled bed of greens with feta cheese, Greek olives, cucumbers, tomatoes and onions, zippily dressed.
The classic burger’s a classic indeed, a half-pound patty on a good sesame-seed bun; it played second fiddle, though, to its accompanying fries, which were crisp-skinned in a gilding of peppery Hour, with meltaway-mellow innards. A strip sirloin steak was chewy but lean and rare as ordered; its accompanying baked potato was wrapped in foil, unfortunately, but the lemon soup that preceded it was terrific.
It was Daytona’s Greek pizza, though. that really pushed my button-topped with thin strips of spiced lamb and beef with fresh diced tomato, feta cheese, olives and onion, the plump-but-crisp-crusted beauty was a marvel of tastes and textures that put it up there with pricier gourmet versions.
Beverages are a bargain here, too; in keeping with its sporting theme, there’s a full bar, but by far the best value is all in its head-the head on your beer, that is: Besides on-tap and pitchers, the brew comes in buckets. No, not poured, but iced-down by the six-pack, at $6.95 for domestics, $9.95 for imports such as the frosty Heinekens we shared.
Service was friendly, as unstressed as the decor, which is an amiable amalgam of vintage car-related memorabilia and prints of assorted celebs almost covering dark- wood walls in three large dining areas. All in all, Daytona’s affords a promising aspect for winter game-watching, whether it’s on TV (as in football) or through the glass wall (as in raccoons). 7402 Greenville Ave. 890-7588. Sun.-Thur. II a.m. -II p.m., Fri-Sat. II a.m.-midnight. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. Inexpensive. -B.C.
Home Cooking Without the Home
JAY’S CAFE Long before Deep Ellun got hot, the neighborhood’s blue-collar regulars used to gather at an Elm Street eatery called Olivia’s for early breakfasts and congenial lunettes on weekdays. Now comes Jay’s Cafe, occupying the same space but harboring a double ambition: (a) to keep the same crowd coming the same days of the week; and (b) to siphon off a share of the street’s night life as well, To the latter end. the new owners have slicked up the place with a fine wraparound Texas landscape mural by artist Gary Myrick, and added a full bar and late evening hours, with a night menu of bar snacks, burgers and omelettes.
Regarding (a), Jay’s should have no problems-the food is comparable to Olivia’s, if not to its sibling, the Fanner’s Grill on Lemmon Avenue. A lot of sins are committed in the name of home cooking (ask any mother). One is presuming mat the food in one location will be as good as that served in another which shares the same owners and the same menu. Jay’s bill of fare is a duplicate, but the dishes we tried on our visits fell several notches short of those at Fanner’s Grill. Fried chicken, for instance, was hard-shelled rather than delicately crispy, and its underseasoned cream gravy had the consistency of the from-a-mix variety. Ditto the fried catfish fillets, whose cornmeal casing was plaster-firm.
Potato soup floated a slick of yellow chicken fat (possibly borrowed from the stock used in that day’s special chicken and dumplings). Beans and rice were nice despite their hint of chili powder, but ours were served cool. Another day’s turkey and dressing was better, the mixed light and dark chunks tasty and tender although the dressing had not been baked long enough to firm it, and the needed crunch of celery and onion was missing. Yeast rolls, brought here from the Farmer’s Grill Kitchen, were superior to the dense combread muffins served with them.
Desserts were a tossup-a custardy bread pudding held no raisins and was overwhelmed by its thick glaze of lemon sauce; pineapple cobbler balanced canned-fruit sweetness against buttery pastry crust more successfully.
Regulars are still getting what they’ve always come here for-a daily assortment of plate lunches for pennies ($4.50 and under), along with heart-of-gold service and friendly badinage with sunny, jeaned servers, who greet repeat customers with special warmth. One can only wish whoever’s in the kitchen cared as much. 2912 Elm St. 76 -18U. Breakfast and lunch, Mon.-Fri. 5:30a.m.-3p.m.; bar open Mon.-Sat. until 2 a.m. AE. DS. MC. V. Inexpensive. -B. C.
D Revisits
HOME COOKING
D REVISITS Lucky’s. Judging by food style, am bience and service alone, you’d hardly know (his place isn’i the original Good Eats that preceded Lucky’s at Oak Lawn and Bowser-ownership’s the same (Gene Street and friends), exuberant crowd noise is the same (neighborhood habitués and young executive types), and the menu’s not all that different except that it lacks a few GE favorites (I speak specifically of chicken pot pie). What you get. (hough, is still larger portions of homey food than you bargained for, at pocket-friendly prices. Star turn on our run was a sandwich billed as the sleaziest, cheesiest grilled cheese in town-and for sure it was with bacon, onions, tomatoes and green chilies heaped so high on Cheddar and provolone- blanketed sourdough (cut Texas-toast thick, to boot) that the only way to approach the revolting!) delicious thing was with a knife and fork. Chicken- fried steak came off a distant second; the tenderized cutlet, billed as hand-battered. was more like hand- upholstered in a thick, gummy batter that sloughed off at the touch of a knife. Mashed potatoes were fine, though, and cream gravy was passable. Chocolate layer cake ordered for dessert came out as an enormous three-layer wedge, lavished with fudge frosting, and decadently wonderful. Service was fast, friendly and kind, right down to packag ing leftovers to take home. If you’re looking for more food than you can stand to look at. at easy-to- swallow prices. I can*t think of a more agreeably casual place to find it. 3531 Oat Lawn. 522-3500. Ail credit cards. Inexpensive. -B. C.
INDIAN
D REVISITS Curry in m Hurry. An Indian restaurant (hat serves Vietnamese food, too? Stranger culinary bedfellows would be hard to imagine. Add in Curry in a Hurry’s former identity as La Pagode. one of this city’s first Vietnamese eateries, and the combination seems more curious still, especially considering that the full Viet à la carte menu is still offered, while the Indian side is restricted to a set-priced dinner that changes daily. This disparate dining concept nonetheless is the brainchild of owners Mustafa and Anu Munshi, the Indian couple who recently bought La Pagode and added their own Indian home cooking to the Asian fare still prepared by former proprietors. The totally redone decor is emphatically Indian, with wonderful leather puppets cm walls and windows, colorful art-clearly from the Munshis’ private collection-everywhere. The Munshis’ food is different, too. from other Indian fare offered in Dallas. Rather than the familiar Tandoor and Punjabi dishes of Northern India, theirs is home cooking from the Bombay area and features intriguingly spiced vegetable combinations with or without the accompaniment of Muslim-style meats and poultry (the vegetarian dinner is $7.95, with meat two dollars more). A first course of crunchy, hue-sized samosas ted to a main plate of succulent chicken legs in saffron-infused sour cream; accompanying side dishes–mung beans with 11 spices, spinach with mustard, potato, onion. tomato and seven spices, and split garbatizos with zucchini-were overcooked by domestic standards, but pleasant enough. Their dark hues and long-simmered textures contrasted oddly with my companion’s Vietnamese dinner, which began with an immaculate pair of monster rice-paper-wrapped spring rolls served with two lively sauces, and then segued into an exquisitely fresh entree of chicken and shrimp curls with crunchy noodles, all graced with barely cooked celery, onion, Chinese cabbage, zucchini, broccoli and carrot nuggets. While both cooking styles were appropriate to each, the prettier Vietnamese fare simply looked far more appetizing-an inescapable visual comparison thai may present problems in establishing the restaurant’s new identity. Service, however, was warmly friendly, with both Munshis on hand to explain their cuisine and welcome all comers. Who. by the way. should bring their own beer or wine for dinner between 5 and 10 p.m. nightly. 4302 Bryan (at Peak). 821-4542. AE, DS. MC. V. Inexpensive. -B.C.
ITALIAN
D REVISITS Mi Piaci. Try as you might to be open-minded, first impressions are everything. Unfortunately, Mi Piaci didn’t make an entirely good one on my visit. The room seemed stylish in a self- conscious way, and the display of pasta-making and baskets of fresh vegetables and ingredients seemed slightly precious. Arriving mid-evening, around 7:30. we were seated at a table immediately outside the bur, given one menu and told bizarrety. “We’re short on menus-I’ll try to find some more.” It was a long lime before die waiter brought us the deli cious bread and olive oil for dipping, longer to get the water we requested and forever to get more menus (we never did get more than three for a table of four). Fortunately, die service got belter as the evening progressed, and there could be no com plaints about the food, which lives up to its word- of-mouth billing as some of the best Kalian food in Dallas. Nearly everything we ate had the kind of verve that makes eating exciting. A salad of shaved artichokes. Parmesan and arugula was tart and fresh, the nutty sweetness of the cheese a perfect foil for the leafy bitterness and tartness. A special pasta topped with Alaskan crab in spicy tomato sauce was beautifully served in a red crab shell; satiny fettuccine was swathed in a kind of reduced lobster bisque with big ruddy chunks of the shell fish tangled in it. The osso buco in rich, dark gravy over saffron risotto in a ring of bright spinach was certainly the best I’ve had in Dallas, and the velvety gelati (lemon and chocolate) were outrageous. 14854 Montfort. 934-8424. All credit cants. Expen sive. -M.B.M.
MEXICAN
D REVISITS Blue Goose Cantina The border-town atmosphere here is convincing, although you never had servers this smooth in an authentic canti-na. Still, the concrete floors, noise level and mostly collegiate-age clientele set you up for some macho Mexican food. They bring it out on platters, not plates, on a tray piled so high you’re sure that your dinner for two is meant for the group of six sealed at the table next to you. Loosen your belt-it’s all yours. Though there are some nods to a lighter point of view on the new menu-vegetarian items like squash or spinach enchiladas-this is basically carnivore country. The tortillas, thickly blanketed with cream and cheese, barely close around the chicken in these sour cream enchiladas, the chili gravy is thick as lava over oozing cheese enchiladas and a sizzling platter holds a steer’s worth of fajitas. You have to be very hungry or very young (which amounts to the same thing) to enjoy Blue Goose to the max. We were neither and, unable to eat a single bite more (not even a wafer thin mint), left with stacks of Styrofoam boxes holding our leftover din ner. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. All credit cards. -M.B.M
D REVISITS Casa Daminguez. Casa Dominguez. the granddaddy of Dallas Mexican restaurants, must have begun to feel the joint creak ing. This venerable institution has been a little over whelmed by the recent nuevo-wavo of Mexican restaurants flooding Dallas-a newer, more vibrant style of Tex-Mex cooking has caught up with Casa Dominguez’s famous “Austin-style” Mexican food. On a recent visit we discovered that efforts have been made to keep up with the Martinezes (so to speak)-the new menu features more fish, vegetari an dishes and lighter food. But we weren’t satisfied with the foods that were marked as new. The at tempt at catfish Mexicana was unsuccessful, for in stance-the fish dry and the sauce bland. Dominguez should remember that “tried and true” is more than alliteration. Original dishes like the “Pete-za” and classic combo plates like the George Poston can’t be beat, and an old-fashioned, sinfully rich plate of queso flameado, the pale melted cheese in a pool of red oil leaked by the spicy chori zo, proved to us once again that “new” doesn’t nec essarily mean “improved.” 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. AE, DC, V. Inexpensive -M.B.M.
D REVISITS Chapa’s. The big banner outside proclaiming “Chapa’s Now Open” made us think we were going to a whole new restaurant where El Asadero used to be, but once we were inside we found that the name was the only thing that had changed. I guess if they changed the name every week, we’d be back there to eat that often. Strange ly, even though we used to like El Asadero, we were only partly pleased with our first dinner at Chapa’s. Our meal began with dismayingly watery chili con queso, while the salsa had an unidentifi able chemical taste, die margaritas were neon green and the cheese enchiladas were gooey. But the na- chos were reassuringly endowed with rich refried beans, nuggets of smoky chicken and still-rare bits of steak under the cheese blanket. A platter of que- sadilla-s filled wim fresh mushrooms, wilted green peppers and Monterey Jack cheese could have made a meal for two. The tropical murals and cozy chairs don’t exactly evoke me sea but do make you wish you were on a Mexican beach (true, it doesn’t take a mural to make me wish that), and the service was certainly slow enough to make us wonder if our server was on vacation. 1516 Greenville Ave. 826-0625. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moder ate. -M.B.M.
D REVISITS Mi Cocina. There’s some kind of south-of-the-border magic going on-Mi Cocina is die biggest wave on die new Mexican scene. Neither the menu nor the decor is wildly original, and Preston Forest doesn’t have much charisma as a dining destination, but the line from the front door of Mi Cocina is snaking down the sidewalk by 6 p.m. Here, the old standards taste brand-new again-as if they’ve been awakened. Cheese enchiladas and tacos al carbon taste as exciting as though someone just thought them up yesterday. The chips are fresh and light, the salsa bright with cilantro and cumin, and die flautas are freshly fried so the tor tilla flakes like French pastry. Even a mundane dish like bean soup sings. It’s not just the food, though (it never is); the atmosphere at Mi Cocina is vibrant and energetic-it’s just a fun place to be. And, as I said, a raging success; a sister restaurant is sched uled to open in Highland Park Village (in the old Los Vaqueras location) after the first of the year. 11661 Preston. 265-7704. AE, DS, MC, V. Inexpen sive. -M.B.M
SOUTHWESTERN
D REVISITS Ruby’s Greenville Ave. Cafe. Weekend brunches here are so fine, I’m embar rassed to say I rarely get to Ruby’s lunch or dinner menus (the brunch bill of fare’s Cafe Eggs are a to- die-for version of traditional eggs Benedict). Which is a pity, since this restaurant spreads a bountiful board of creative turns on country favorites. Seafood soup was outstanding on a recent visit, a light tomato-based broth teeming with firm, fresh fish nuggets and vegetables. Seafood and potato fritters upgraded herbed potato with much shrimp and crab in a crisp, thin skin. Grilled lumberjack lamb enhanced rosy-rare loin slices with an exotic nuance of hoisin-curry marinade. Our only disap pointment was in the homey dish I’d wanted most to try: Braised chicken breasts were moist and love ly in their vegetable-laden wine-cream sauce, but the dill dumplings that completed the dish were leaden and dense–as were the bread plate’s hot biscuits. A bad day for bread-making, maybe? Any how, homemade apple pie could not have been bet ter, the cinnamony fruit slices delectable in a fall-apart tender crust. Service was casually compe tent and accommodating, in keeping with me per missive ambience of the intimate ex-Little Gus setting. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. AE. DC, MC, V. Moderate. -B.C.
STEAKS
D REVISITS Wellington. To open the menu here is to push an instant time-trip button-back to the guilt-free days when dining out in style meant but ter-drenched snails, richly sauced red meat, Cher ries Jubilee and heavy-fat content. To be fair, Wellington serves lighter dishes, too. but its overall ambience in food, service and decor is comfortably upscale Continental, even more so since its recent redo, which created a cocktail and dancing lounge set apart from the main dining area. Not too far apart-the barrier between them, a handsomely framed row of lace-curtained windows, allows the music of whatever group’s playing to be heard, but not intrusively, by diners who can also catch in triguing glimpses of dancing couples through the lace. I hope some of the nostalgies who are always calling to ask where they can combine dining and dancing are reading this, because Wellington now offers exactly what they’ve been missing in both food and mood. Shrimp cocktail and Caesar salad both were classics, as were my companion’s dou ble-cut lamb chops with mint jelly. With regret. I eschewed the house trademark entree. Beef Wellington, in favor of poached Norwegian salmon sauced with tomato and basil; my regret grew when the great slab of fish turned out to be rather dry, al though the sauce was fresh and delicate. Prof iteroles weren’t worth the trouble, their pastry gone radier soggy, but crème caramel was up to standard. It would have been nice if we’d been asked early if we wanted to order a dessert souffle, but other than that, service was suave and attentive, and the con siderable number of diners who adjourned to the lounge for after-dinner exercise seemed to enjoy themselves enormously. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748- 1291. AE, DC. MC, V. Expensive. -B.C.
FORT WORTH
D REVISITS Hedary’s. Regrettably. Dallas has lost the Promenade Center offshoot of this Middle Eastern marvel, but fortunately the original flour ishes still-and believe me. Fort Worth is not far to travel when the fever for Lebanese fare is upon you. The brick oven-baked puffed bread, khubz. is alone worth the trip. Hedary’s homemade labni, the yo gurt cheese, is the best I’ve ever tasted, and its tabouleh salad, hummus and eggplant dips were also unsurpassed, as ever, on our last visit. Mag- doos, the tiny walnut-stuffed appetizer eggplants pickled in olive oil, were less exciting than those we’d had in the Dallas outpost: but roast chicken long-cooked with potatoes and tomatoes was every bit as succulent as 1 remembered. The best thing on the table this time was kibbi nayyi mhamasa, a main dish involving a layer of lean, ground, raw beef mixed with crushed wheat, delectably topped with a sautéed-in-butter blend of ground sirloin, pine nuts, fresh tomato and spices. Dessert is never an issue here; although the baklava is exemplary, I’ve always preferred the Lebanese coffee, qahwi, killer-strong, sweetened to order, purely addictive. As is everything about this spacious, informal, fam ily-run place, including its warm, caring service. 3308 Fairfield fin Ridglea). (8/7) 731-6961. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate, -B.C.
D Recommends
BARBECUE
Arnold’s Texas Barbecue. 601 N. Haskell. 826-1234. Inexpensive.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.
Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.
Billy Blues Barbecue & Grill. 2020 N. Lamar at McKinney. 871-0661. Inexpensive to moderate.
Peggy Sue BBQ. 66110 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensie.
R.J.’S Sho-Nuf. 3910 Maple Ave. 528-5230. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. 302 N. Market 744-1610. Inexpensive.
BRITISH
Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Inexpensive to moderate.
Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market, Suite 105. 761-9355. Inexpensive.
BURGERS
Allen Street Bar & Grill. 2900 McKinney Ave. 871 -0256. Inexpensive to moderate.
Balls Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. 4343 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-2525. Inexpensive.
Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy, 526-1092. lnexpensive.
Club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Drive. 902-7990. Inexpensive.
Deep Elmer’s. 2615 Commerce. 748-9898. Inexpensive.
EZ’s. 6838 W. Northwest Hwy. 750-6677. Inexpensive.
8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
The Green Elephant Bar and Grill. 5612 Yale. 750-6625. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007.
Moderate,
Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Snuffers. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway, Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Starlight Diner. 27l5Elm.747-STAR. Inexpensive.
State. 3611 Parry Ave. 821-9246. Inexpensive.
Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.
CAJUN
Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.
Cafe Margaux. 4527 Travis. 520-1985. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce, 745-1900. Inexpensive.
Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 101, Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nate’s Seafood & Steak h ou se. 1495I Midway Road. Addison 701-9622. Moderate.
Pappadeaux Seafood Kitchen. 3520 Oak Lawn. 521-4700. Moderate to expensive.
Red’s Cajun Queen. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-9777. Inexpensive to moderate.
CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICAN
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams, 690-0622. Inexpensive.
CHINESE
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy.. Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.
Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood. Suite 121, 902-9500. Moderate.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Canton Chinese Restaurant. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-IH63. Inexpensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
Far East. 4830 Greenville Ave. 373-6041. Inexpen-
First Chinese Barbecue. Ill S. Greenville Ave.. Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.
General China. 1920 Skillman. 827-3688. Inexpensive.
Henry Chen’s. 3701 W. Northwest Hwy. 956-9560.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Suite 200 Richardson. 238-8888. Modi-rate to expensive.
Hunan Restaurant. 5214 Greenville Ave. 369-4578. Inexpensive to moderate.
Lovers Eggroll. 5360 W. Lovers Lane, Suite 205. 358-1318. Inexpensive.
May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Bell Line. Suite 200. Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner, Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza. 321-7599. Mode rale.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut. Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.
Texas lade. 3227 McKinney Ave. 871-8898. Moderate.
Tong’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.
Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Pkwy.. in [he Galleria. B34-9998. Expensive.
ETHIOPIAN
Dallul. 2515 lnwood. 353-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.
River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Addison Cafe. 5290 Bell Line. Suite 108. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive.
Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane. Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.
Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive.
Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple. 871-2523, Expensive.
Frenchy Cafe. 2240 Gus Thomasson, 328-8474. Moderate.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Very expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
Juniper. 2917 Fairmount. 855-0700. Expensive.
La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-0800. 3906 Lemmon Ave. 521-0183. 628 North Park Center. 696-2398. 11930 Preston (at Forest). 233-6448. Galleria, at ice rink level. 991-7790. Inexpensive. L’Ancestral. 45l4Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.
Le Caviste. 5405 W. Lovers Lane. 352-6512. Moderate.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
The Old Warsaw, 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.
Pierre’s By The Lake. 3430 Shorecrest. 358-2379. Moderate to expensive.
The Riviera. 7709 lnwood. 351 -0094. Very expensive.
St. Martins. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.
Sweet Temptations. 4090 Skillman. 503-6007, Inexpensive to moderate.
Tony’s Wine Warehouse and Bistro. 2904 Oak Lawn. 520-9463. Inexpensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave.. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive,
The Wine Press. 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720. Moder-ale to expensive.
York St. 6047 Lewis. 826-0968. Expensive.
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto, in the Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Expensive.
Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.
The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Road. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3840 W, Northwest Hwy.. Suite 400. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross. 821-3121. Inexpensive.
GREEK
Cafe Greek. Preston Valley Shopping Center. Preston Road at I.BJ. 934-9767. Moderate.
Cafe Nelu. 56 Arapaho Village (Arapaho and West-shore). Richardson. 235-5387. inexpensive to moderate.
Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.
Kosta’s Cafe. 4914 Greenville Ave. 987-3225. Inexpensive.
The M Street Grill. 2014 Greenville Ave. 826-8989. Inexpensive to moderate.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
HOME COOKING
Bishop Arts Cafe. .116 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.
Célébration. 4503 W. Lover; Une. 351-568I. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chubby’s. 11333 E. Northwest Hwy. 348-6063. Inexpensive.
Farmer’s Grill. 4015 Lemmon Ave. 521-2281. Inexpensive.
Gennie’s Bishop Grille. 321 N. Bishop. 946-1752. Inexpensive.
Good Eats Cafe. 3888 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. 14905 Midway. Addison. 392-3287. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughters’ Diner. 2014 Irvine Blvd. 742-8646. 2610 Royal Lane. 241-8646. Inexpensive.
Original Market Diner. 4434 Harry Hines. 521-0992. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. Ill 5. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St Paul. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive to moderate.
INDIAN
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka Indian Cuisine. 5409 Belt Line. Preston-wood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston. Suite 105 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231 -5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village, Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.
Shusmi. 859 N.K. Green Oaks. Arlington. (817) 860-8728. Moderate.
Taj Mahal. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.
IRISH
Tipperary Inn. 2818 Greenville Ave. 823-7167. Inexpensive.
ITALIAN
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Expensive.
Amici Signature Italian. 1022 S. Broadway. Carrol Hon. 245-3191. Moderate to expensive.
Andiamo’s. 4151 Belt Line. 233-1515. Moderate to expensive.
Angelo’s. 6341 La Vista. 823-5566. Ineipensive to moderate.
Arcodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane. Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate. Capriccio. 2515 McKinney Ave. 871-2004. Expen-
Chianti Restaurant and Pizzeria. 3505 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-7456. Inexpensive. Fausto’s Owen. 300 Reunion Blvd.. in the Hyatt Regency Hold. 712-7144. Moderate.
Ferrari’s. 703 McKinney Ave., in The Brewery. 954-1112. Moderate 10 expensive.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.
il Nonno’s. Hyatt Regency D/FW. East Tower. 453-8400. Moderate to expensive.
Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.
La Trattoria Lombardi’s. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.
Lido Ragazzo. 9777 Greenville Ave. 342-1885. Inexpensive.
Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426.2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 961 Main Place. Suite C106 in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mise En Place. 7011 Lomo Alio. 520-2424. Inexpensive to moderate.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Une. Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 370, Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive. Nero’s. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate. Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive to moderate.
Piccola Cucina. 1030 NorthPark Center, Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Bell Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate. Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Lane. 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Romano’s Macaroni Grill. 4535 Belt Line, Addison. 386-3831. 5858 Northwest Hwy. 265-0770. Moder-
Ruffino’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 153. 890-7555. Moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate to en-pensive,
Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741 -0111. Moderate.
Sfuzzi. 2504McKimiey Ave. 871-2606. 15101 Addison Road. Addison. 960-2606. Moderate.
Sweet Basil. 17610 Midway. 733-1500. Moderate.
Tivoli’s. 2013 Greenville Ave. 824-2013. Moderate.
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
JAPANESE
Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Steak House. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Modeate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 360. Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line, Irving. 594-6911, Moderate.
Sushi Yama. 8989 Forest Une, Suite 112. 234-3474. Inexpensive to moderate.
KOREAN
Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood. 351-6922. Moderate.
Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. 272-9909. Inexpensive to moderate.
Koreana. 12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.
MEDITERRANEAN
Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate.
Blind Lemon. 2805 Main St. 939-0202. Inexpensive to moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7410. Very expensive.
Main St. News. 2934 Main St. 746-2934. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sambuca. 2618 Elm St. 744-0820. Moderate.
MEXICAN
Avila’s. 4714 Maple. 520-2700. Inexpensive.
Balderas Tex Mex Restaurant. 3851 Cedar Springs. #A. 526-2180. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Bel! Line, Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.
Chuy’s. 211 N. Record. 747-2838. Moderate.
Cuqurta’s. 2326 S. Henderson. 823-1057. Inexpensive to mode rale.
Desperados. 4818 Green Wile Ave. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
Eduardo’s Aca y Alla. 2914 Main. 748-7140. Moderate.
El Arroyo. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 202. 363-4464. Inexpensive.
El Ranchito. 610 Jefferson. 946-4238. Inexpensive to moderate.
Flamingo Joe’?. 2712 Main. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.
Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
La Calle Doce. 415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Inexpensive to moderate.
Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia. 827-1889. Inexpensive.
La Suprema Tortllleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.
La Chocita. 108 University Village, Piano Road at Bell Line. Richardson. 690-4445. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy., at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105. 521 -0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinez Cafe. Preston Park Village. 1900 Preston. Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
Mattito’s Cafe Mexicano. 4311 Oak Lawn Ave. 526-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Malt’s Raw lui Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate,
Mercado Juarez. 1901 W, Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
Mi Casa Tex Mex Restaurant. 8301 Westchester. H90-9939. Inexpensive to moderate.
Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive to moderate,
Tijuana Johnny’s. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-2281. Inexpensive to moderate.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon. 520-6620, Moderate.
MIDDLE EASTERN
Ali Baba. 1905 Greenville Ave. 823-8235. Inexpensive.
NATURAL
Agnew’s Natural Grill. 3011 Routh St. 720-3900. Moderate to expensive.
Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
NEW AMERICAN
Actuelle. 500 Crescent Court. Suite 165. 855-0440. Expensive.
Aransas Pass. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.
Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.
Avne. s. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Moderate.
Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Moderate to expensive.
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.
Buffalo Club. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. in the Quadrangle. 220-2465. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Cafe Brazil. 6340 Gaston. 826-9522. inexpensive to moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
City Cafe. 5757 Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.
The Conservatory. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871 -3242. Very expensive.
Crockett’s. Doubletree Hotel at Lincoln Center. 5410 LBJ Frwy. 701-5160. Expensive.
Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.
Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West, 1590 LBJ Frwy. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.
Dream Cafe. 2K00 Routh St., Suite 170, in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive to very expensive.
Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Landmark Cafe. Melrose Hotel. 30)5 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit Drive, off Coil near LBJ Frwy. 851-2021. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Very expensive.
Nana Grill. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stem m on s Frwy. 761-7470. Expensive to very expensive.
Natchez. 2810 N. Henderson. 821 -4552. Moderate.
Original Joe’s Metro Grill. 2723 Elm. 747-9999. Inexpensive.
Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn, 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. in The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
The Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Very expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. 2800 Routh St., Suite 180. in the Quadrangle. 979-
Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.
650 North. 650 N. Pearl. 855-1708. Expensive.
SEAFOOD
Atlantic Cafe. 14866 Montfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. 526-1170. Expensive.
Dinger’s Catfish Cafe. 8989 Forest Lane. 235-3251. Inexpensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Preston Center. 841 ! Preston. Berkshire Court. 739-3474. Moderate.
Jozef’s Seafood Restaurant. 2719 McKinney Ave. 954-0407. Moderate to expensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in The Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.
Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman. Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.
SOUTHWESTERN
Aransas Pass. 2912 Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.
Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Society. 4514 Travis, Suite 133. 528-6543. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caliente. 6881 Greenville Ave. 369-8600. Moderate.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506 Inexpensive.
Lome Luna Cafe. 8201 Preston. Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.
Ozona Grill & Bar. 4615 Greenville Ave. 265-9)05. Inexpensive.
Pecan Grill. 707 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 739-9007. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 100. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Zuma. 2701 Stemmons Frwy. 631-3050. Moderate.
SPANISH
Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis, 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.
White Swan Cafe. 2307 Abrams. 824-8122. Moderate.
STEAKS
Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy,, Campbell Centre. Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive,
Morton’s of Chicago. 501 Elm. 741-2277. Expensive.
Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.
Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902-8080, Expensive.
TAKEOUT/DELI
Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn. Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell. 248-0608. Inexpensive.
Bagelstein’s. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
Chicken Chicken. 5500 Greenville Ave. 361-2222, Inexpensive.
City Cafe To Go. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-3366. Moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammel] Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court, 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Deli-News. 500 The Crescent Court. 922-DELI. 15775 Hillcrest 392-DELI. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gilbert’s New York Delicatessen. 127 Preston Forest Village. 373-3333. Inexpensive to moderate.
Henk’s European Deli. 5811 Blackwell Street. 987-9090. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.
Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Preizler’s Delicatessen. 116 Preston Valley Shopping Center at LB J, 458-HS1*. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040, Inexpensive to moderate.
THAI
Bangkok City. 4301 Bryan at Peak. 824-6200. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sala Thai. 2415 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 108. 380-8945. Moderate.
Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expwy. (off Park). Piano. 422-5219. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637 Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 431S Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Lotus. 3851-D Cedar Springs. 520-9385. Inexpensive
Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive
Thai Slam. 9560 Skillman. 341-5835. Inexpensive.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai-Thai. 1731 Greenville Ave, 828-9795. Inexpensive.
Thai Taste. 4501 Cole. 521-3513. Moderate.
Toy’s Cafe. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.
VIETNAMESE
Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut, Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate,
Cafe de Saigon. 5617 W. Lovers Lane. 350-8767. Moderate.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Bistro Bagatelle, (French) 406 W. Abrams. Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate to expensive.
Cacharel. (French) Brooklhollow Two. 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 910, Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur. Irving. 550-1 il 3. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 H. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro 817-481 -4668. Inexpensive.
Caspar’s. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Road. Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate,
Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E Las Colinas Blvd., Suite 501. Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.
La Margarita, (Mexican) 3636 N. Bell Line. Irving. 570-1137. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Su prom a. (Mexican) 631 I N. O’Connor, Irving. 506-0988. Moderate.
Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza. Arlington. Metro 817-261-6604 Moderate.
Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving, 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
FORT WORTH
Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.
Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.
Kincaid’s. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie Blvd, (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.
Jons Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.
Inanity’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.
Michaels. {New American) 3413 W. Seventh. (817) 877-3413. Moderate to expensive.
Ristorante La Piazza. (Italian) 3431 West Seventh. (817) 334-0001), Moderate 10 expensive.
Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.
Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-IO00. Expensive.
Saint Emillon. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate To expensive.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Howie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3.100 W. Sev enth. (817) 870-1672 Moderate to expensive.
Water Street Seafood Co. (Seafood) 1540 S. Uni versity Drive. (817) 877-3474. Moderate,
