WINING & DINI
Lawry’s Prime Rib and The Junior Qroup of the Dallas Symphony Orchestra League present the second in a three-rnonth series of wine dinners Jan. 14, 16, and 16 at Lawry’s. /”A Vintage Evening” will ’ feature wines from the Robert Mondavi Winery and nouvelle cuisine by Lawry’s Executive Chef Ralph Sanchez. Proceeds benefit the Symphony. Tickets are $75 per person, per dinner. For more info or to order tickets, call 621-7777.
REAL PEOPLE With its ersatz Britishpub interior and Cheers-style cast ofregulars, Oyster House segues frombustling luncheon spot to quiet, after darkneighborhood bar. But the deep downtown(N. Akard) neighborhood gets lonely. Thankgoodness for Lucille Mathews, whose EveArden smile and unfailing chumminesshelps banish the black of night. In fact,Lucille may be downtown’s best-knownwaitress. During her 21 years at Sol’s TurfBar, she traded saucy quips with owner andgood friend Elmer Solomon. “He was thecomedian; I was the straight guy.” Now,looking younger than her 60 years and stilla willowy charmer, she treats customerslike family at Oyster House. “People tell meabout their hobbies, grandkids, successes,failures. I guess it’s because I make themfeel comfortable and welcome.” That’s ourLucille. -Derro Evans
Catfish and Spirits
ON THE ROAD Quick, before impending supercollision, how long since you’ve been to Waxahachie? That’s too long-not that this altogether charming small town is going anywhere, exactly; but the therapeutic tranquility of the place as we know it is bound to be transformed when that Big Dig begins. Savor it now, and cap your visit with dinner in an 1895 residence restored to its original charm-and inhabited, it’s rumored, by the spirits of three of its original occupants.
Apparently, the trio doesn’t resent the home’s reincarnation as Catfish Plantation-perhaps because the home-style food served here, and the hospitable tone set by owners Tom and Melissa Baker, are in keeping with the traditions of their time. Catfish stars on the menu, in several interpretations. Chicken-fried steak and country-fried chicken are top draws, too. The liquid sort of spirits The ghosts at the Catfish Plantation don’t seem to mind the crowds.
aren’t served, but you’re welcome tobring your own; do call ahead, though,for reservations-the locally popularplace is only open for dinner Thursdaysthrough Sundays, plus lunch Friday,Saturday, and Sunday. 814 Water St.,(214) 937-9468. -Betty Cook
The Scotch Sampler
IMBIBING Is there life after Glenlivet? Serious single-malt Scotch sippers want to know without blowing their budgets-and Gershwin’s has the answer: a list of 41 different varieties designed to be sampled three at a time in half-ounce portions. Taste several combinations before dinner, and you can have your Scotch and hold it too- compare 15-year-olds, for example, from Dalwhinnie, Glenfarclas. and Laphroaig; tour the Scottish islands with Highland Park, Talisker, and Isle of Jura; visit the animal house with Famous Grouse, Pig’s Nose, and Sheep Dip. The three-taste, one-full-drink sampler trios start at $4.75, served in mini-snifters with ice and Evian on the side. The other side of the list by the way, offers the same opportunity for after dinner, with 33 cognacs and Armagnacs available in suggested (or pick them yourself) combinations. Prices begin at $6 per trio and go upward-way upward in some cases, depending on your selection.
We think Gershwin’s has something here, offering patrons a very civilized way to imbibe the best. Overindulgence is passe; the key is to sip and savor, comingling combinations until you discover your favorite. Think of this as an educational experience of the palate.
Gershwin’s, 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave., 373-7171. – Betty Cook Hangout of the month
In January the best place to hang out is anyplace that has heat and something warm to drink. To narrow your selection we suggest Loma Luna on Lomo Alto, a particularly cozy spot with pinon burning in its fireplace.
THE HOTS FOR CHILI
Ask any born Texan to name the state’s national food, and the answer will be “Chili.” But there the agreeman’s fire is another’s sissy soup, as these examples illustrate: El Tio (4307 Bryan St.). As in most Mexican restaurants, this establishment’s chili by the bowl is the same that goes on its enchiladas – fine ground and thin-textured but with a slow burn that builds bite by bite. $3.75.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez (6312 La Vista). Comfort-food mild, con carne comes with grated cheese and chopped onion. It also comes too-a dollop that’s mellows the mix. $4.
Richelieu Grill (415 Main St.). It’s worth the trip to sample this Fort Worth legend’s bowl of red. Lore has it that the recipe, scribbled on a kitchen wall, was almost lost when the original building was demolished; fortunately, someone remembered in time. $3.25.
Texas Hamburgers (1606 Market Center Blvd.). Wars have been fought over whether beans and tomatoes belong in the Real Thing. Sample this homey, hot-withfire brew, which includes both, and decide for yourself. $2.95.
Tolbert’s (1800 N. Market St.). The man who single-handedly built the chili mystique is gone, but his still run the res taurant that he launched to spread The Word. Tolbert’s recipe defines the dish-chunky, spoon-melting-spicy, the standard by which all that followed are still judged. It’s simply the best. $3.75.
The Mansion’s Splendid New Sibling
Conservatory The Crescent, already awash in international hotel honors and awards, lacked a signature restaurant that would rival its sibling, the Mansion, in refined elegance, if not joie de vivre.
Enter the Conservatory, a half-million-dollar statement carved out of Beau Nash’s garden court. On one side, a soaring curtain of glass; on the other, brick hung with gilt-framed paintings; over both, a barreled arch of shirred silk from which mammoth chandeliers descend. All this for 56 seats, aspiring to be the most sought-after in the city.
They may make it. Already, reservations are hard to come by, lunch tables thronged, particularly by Mansion regulars checking to see if Executive Chef Daniel O’Leary’s food will make the cut.
It will, in time, among those who cherish the familiar rendered with wit into new translations. Okay, food is food. But who could fail to respond to fresh foie gras, barely sautéed and served with whipped potatoes in Armagnac sauce studded with plump golden raisins? Liver and mashed potatoes it might be, but the appetizer transcended mortal clichés on our dinner visit. Likewise, a “cassoulet” of escargot and white beans brought an unlikely marriage to consummation, with an herbal pesto to seal the pact.
An entrée of grilled Maine scallops presented the huge, pearly circlets in artichoke cream with meaty chanterelles; another of monkfish took that humble creature to giddy heights on a bed of lemon fettuccine, garnished with beluga caviar. At lunch, medallions of rare beef were appropriately more casual, accompanied by “lace” potatoes and baby green beans. Mediterranean seafood stew came as an immaculate arrangement of shrimp, lobster, scallops, and mussels.
Hot and cold chocolate soufflé introduced a new wrinkle-instead of mere sauce, a globe of vanilla ice cream was inserted into its steaming heart. A warm Bartlett pear tart, stunningly beautiful, held terrific spice impact, although its mas-carpone honey ice cream hardly tasted of the gentle cheese.
Service throughout was cordially cosseting and un-intimidating, which pretty well sums up the ambience of the restaurant itself.
Like its food, the Conservatory manages to be both splendid and comfortable, a trifle reserved but not at all stuffy. Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3242. Breakfast Mon.-Fri. 7-10:30; lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun.-Thurs. 6:00-10:30, Fri. Sat. 6:30-11; brunch Sun. 11:30-2:30. All credit cards. Very expensive. -Betty Cook
Head for the Pass
ARanSas Pass The midsummer evening 1 stopped by for a review visit to Spatz and found the casual, New American restaurant closed, I felt that Dallas diners had suffered an unhappy loss. Instead, for a change, luck has dealt us a double dose of good fortune: Not only is Spatz flourishing in spirit at The Bronx, but its former North Henderson address now houses a bright New American newcomer. Aransas Pass, as its name suggests, emphasizes seafood, but co-owner and chef Tony Knight, who has cooked in such stellar establishments as the Mansion, Four Seasons Resort and Hotel, Ratcliffe’s, and the original Agnew’s, has beautifully balanced ways with landlocked dishes, too.
The nearest he came to a bobble on our visits was with a shrimp and sausage quesadilla; even then, while the sausage eclipsed the shrimp, the crisp tortillas were ethereally delicate, and a lively tomatilla chutney added brio to the dish. Maple-glazed baby back ribs, sweetly tender, mated happily with mild napa cabbage coleslaw. Two soups-a memorable cream of eggplant with Romano cheese, and a pepper-sparked pinto bean that elevated that plain legume to elegance-transcended their ingredients. The house salad’s immaculate mixed greens shone in a fragrant vinaigrette; a Texas Caesar laid legal claim to its name with cilantro, red pepper strips, and a hint of jalapeno among Parmesan-tossed romaine leaves.
On the vegetarian side, tri-color penne pasta tubes were gently sauced with garlic and oregano; a whole stewed fresh Roma tomato centered the plate. Fine as it was, meat entrées outshone it; The most expensive, natural grain sirloin grilled and sliced with bourbon-braised shallots, was superb; but so was the menu’s least costly, a range chicken breast grilled to fork-tender succulence, hauntingly smoky on toasted pecan sauce, with crisp-edged yam cakes on the side. My personal prize went to pork tenderloin glazed with jalapeno-warmed honey and served with a splendidly flavorful corn and black bean chile relleno. The dish displayed Knight’s ability to play with fire in seasonings without overwhelming subtle food nuances.
The subtlety showed, too, in a showpiece dessert of cinnamon ice cream in a crisp cinnamon pastry, the cinnamon in both ; restrained.
Knight’s co-owner and fiancéé, Christine Pearce, handles the house, which has beenhandsomely brightened with seaside pastels.The main room’s broad windows overlook aroofed dining court that is heated andcurtained with canvas in cold weather; onfine days, the curtains roll up to reveal aparticularly lovely landscaped area thatmay make this one of the most inviting atfresco settings in the city. Meanwhile, it’scertainly one of the most pleasantdiscoveries we’ve made lately. 2912 N Henderson. 827-8650. Dinner Tue.-Sat.6-11:30. All credit cards. Moderate toexpensive. -B.C.
Mr. Peppe’s GoesVietnamese
CAFE DE SAIGON The couple who started La Pagode and owns Cafe de Saigon (a lunch spot) downtown, have opened a restaurant in the old Mr. Peppe’s location-a familiar place to many Dallas diners. But by the time you’re crunching on an imperial roll dipped in fish sauce while gazing at the familiar mural of a Swiss mountain lake (the decor has not changed), the sense of dejà vu will have vanished. And though there are a number of Continental dishes on the menu, this really is a Vietnamese restaurant.
We did try the pepper steak on one visit-out of curiosity, since it was a speciality of Peppe’s. The rather fatty cut of beef was flamed tableside, and served with a savory brown brandy sauce; its very thick coat of crushed peppercorns burned up your mouth-though the heat didn’t exceed the fire of the Vietnamese smoked flank steak, a delicious if searing selection from the Vietnamese menu. Quail pleiku, darling little birds covered in red chili sauce, was also a hot, though tasty, choice.
There are a number of vegetarian dishes made with imitation chicken, seafood, and beef; we stuck with the real food on both our visits, but appreciated the option on behalf of our vegetarian friends.
Starters include the usual spring rolls and Imperial rolls, the latter fat, fresh pillows stuffed with pork, vegetables, and vermicelli threads and served with a plate of greens-lettuce and cilantro, but no basil on either of our visits. The best beginner we tried, though, was the grilled chicken in rice paper. Formed, not surprisingly, into another roll, it was filled with shreds of excellent charred chicken meat.
Lemon grass chicken, a boneless breast imbued with the tang of the fragrant grass, was surprisingly juicy; seldom is boned chicken actually succulent. Sugar cane shrimp was also tender and tasty. But perhaps the best dish we tried is actually an old favorite: Beef Underdone, a Vietnamese version of steak tartare. In other words, very underdone. The rare beef is just charred on the outside, the inside remains uncooked. Cut into tiny strips and mingled with ginger, scallions, garlic, mint, and lime, Beef Underdone is still one of the best Vietnamese dishes I’ve ever had.
Vietnamese dessert is usually beside the point as far as I’m concerned, but the banana baked in its skin, slit open, and drizzled with condensed milk and sprinkled with fat cashews, made a mellow ending to a spicy meal.
And while service was extremely pleasant,it was a little slow. But you can’t beat theview of those Vietnamese Alps. 5617 LoversLane. 350-8767. 11-ll daily. MC, V, DC.Moderate. -Mary Brown Malouf
Zoonies: Only So-So
zooniEs The company that ownsHumperdink’s is experimenting with a newformat that tries to capitalize on all the publicity that Southwestern cuisine has beengarnering nationally. The result can besampled at Zoonies. This place may be decorated with pink and blue zigzags that represent somebody’s idea of Santa Fe, but it still feels like a Humperdink’s-noisy and youth-oriented. The food is most successful in the starter courses. Everybody’s doing nachos on pizza dough these days-here they’re dubbed “Zoochos,” and they actually taste pretty good. So do the barbecue pork ribs and the Cajun Wing Dings (like Buffalo Wings, only not quite).
You might be happier, then, just to have drinks and nibbles at Zoonies. The rest of the food is okay, but not as exciting as the menu descriptions promise. Wood-oven roasted game hen took forever to appear at the table and tasted mostly of lime juice and of the really hot, rather burned-around-the-edges chili peppers that accompanied it. The La Brisa pasta-scallops and shrimp over red chili noodles-also suffered from over-emphatic seasoning. Simplicity seemed to be the key to finding a good main course-the flavor of the chicken marinated in oil and garlic with sun-dried tomatoes and herbs balanced nicely. And slices of pizza-either fancy varieties with such toppings as pesto and provolone, or regular ones with sausage and pepperoni-kept disappearing mysteriously while more elaborate dishes grew cold on neighbors’ plates. 6050 Greenville Ave. 368-6597. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. All credit cards. Moderate. -W.L. Taitte
Tupinamba Dallas old-timers will recognize the name from earlier spots in Oak Cliff and the Bachman Lake neighborhood. The new incarnation of Tupinamba is farther uptown in both the literal and metaphorical senses. But time seems to have passed it by-there’s not much pizazz in the menu.
Tupinamba prides itself on using shredded rather than ground beef for its Tex-Mex dishes, but as executed here, that’s a dubious advantage. The texture of the shredded beef is dense and mushy, suggesting that it has spent too much time in a food processor, rather than having been shredded by hand. This texture doesn’t spoil the tacos, which are fried up individually in the delicious old-fashioned way. But it is unpleasant in the chile relleno.
The grilled items, in fact, come off betterhere than the Tex-Mex platters. Tupy’sSpecial includes a perfectly cooked littlerib-eye steak alongside an enchilada andgarlicky but bland guacamole that could usea tangy shot of tomato or citrus. Thechicken fajitas have a unique and enjoyableflavor that somehow calls Chinese food tomind-does the marinade include anabundance of soy sauce? The only dessertavailable is the sugary pralines you buy at the register on your way out. 12801 MidwayRoad, south of LBJ. 243-2355. Mon.-Thurs.11 a. m. -10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-10:30p.m., Sun. noon-9. All credit cards.Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. The Dallasite who doesn’t think Sonny Bryan’s barbecue is thestandard by which all others should be judged is a rare breed,indeed. 1 do know one local elitist who deplores fighting hisway through [he happy hubbub to eat sauce-dripping ribs ata one-armed school desk, but the rest of us find the wholeadventure more charming than not. “Sauce” is the key wordhere-vinegar-tart and piquant, it’s sturdy, honest brown,not red, and ambrosial, a dash of it would turn a dry bun intoa banquet. Generously applied to sliced or chopped beef, itbecomes the stuff of which legends are made-SonnyBryan’s for instance. As for the daily lunch mob scene, nevermind that you have to guard your bracelet-sized onion ringsfrom flying elbows, or that your beer lends to slide off thesloped desk arm into your lap; as long as they’ll give me myown kept-warm bottle of sauce with my sandwich, I’ll keepcoming back with the rest of the faithful. 2202 Inwood.357-7120. Inexpensive. -B.C
D Revisits Henry Chen. I know regulars who swearby Henry Chen. But the only truly outstanding dish wesampled on a recent visit was one we stumbled on by chance.Wanting a vegetable to balance our meat orders, we luckedinto eggplant, cut in long, tender tongues and marvelouslyinfused with deep-flavored garlic sauce and minced pork.The rest of our meal was perfectly middle-of-the-roadChinese-a nice hot and sour soup crunched with lily budsand mushrooms, a smooth crab-meat-corn soup laden withcubed carrots and green peas, fried dumplings that weresimply standard. Another appetizer, “hacked chicken withpeppercorn sauce.” was not hacked, but shredded chickenbreast in a sauce that was not pepper, but rather blandpeanut. Orange beef came in chewy chunks, the beef ofmedium quality, the sauce more sweet than peppery; theHappy Family combination of beef, chicken, scallops, crabmeat, and shrimp held much chicken, with one-and-a-halfscallops and three minuscule shrimp carefully doled into themix. Chen offers no desserts, but its fortune cookies aresuperior, lemon-flavored folds, fresh and crisp; I recommend them. 370! W. Northwest Highway at Marsh Lane.956-9560. Moderate. -B.C
D Revisits Le Brussels. Though the décor here might call to mind a quaint little Belgian café, there’s little nationalistic flair to the menu-you won’t find beer stew or even the Belgian-styled fried potatoes here. Instead, the kitchen leans toward fairly heavy French fare. An appetizer of seafood croquettes has a nice, crispy crunch-but where was the sauce bisque that was promised? The cote de veau Mared-sous, a meaty chop with a Port Salut cheese crust and a rich sauce, will satisfy veal lovers, and beautifully roasted quail boast a ginger sauce that is more reminiscent of gingerbread than of the various Asian uses of the spice. A sampler dessert plate offered liny tastes of chocolate and vanilla Bavarian cream, orange-flavored biscuit Cointreau, and a poached pear, all surrounded by chocolate and raspberry sauces. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate to expensive. ~W.LT.
D Revisits Gennle’s Bishop Grille. Okay. I deserve all the slings and arrows you can hurl at me: I’ve lived in Dallas for 25 years and have never been to Gennie’s, an Oak Cliff landmark. I can only dust off the old protest: better late than never. I can’t compare the sparkling comfortable restaurant I visited with the original Gennie’s. which I suspect had a lot more soul, but I can promise I’ll be back to revisit the new Gennie’s as often as possible. Our chicken-fried steak was no less than perfect: peppery, crispy, not over-tenderized, the gravy a stiff brown blend with a bacony, slightly charred taste as though it came out of a real pan. Baked chicken was tender, falling apart at the joints. Vegetables, whether called sautéed or boiled, were all stewed, southern-style, and delicious, and the yeast rolls had a generous touch of Southern sweetening. I doubt if much more can be written about Gennie’s peanut butter pie, or the peanut butter and chocolate combo pie, but I will say 1 left agreeing with the posted sign: “Best café outside Dallas.” 308 N. Bishop Ave. 946-I752. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.
D Revisits La Tosca. In one of the fastest, most fickle businesses there is, La Tosca remains a constant. On our re-cent revisit, the service was personal and careful (the owner themselves bringing our entrees when the room becamecrowded), the setting seemed as chic as though it had beenfinished yesterday, and the food was very, very good. Appetizers of crespelle, thin crepes filled with spinach ina bechamel sauce, and cannelloni, filled with minced vealand coated with cheese, were richer than the current styleof Italian food requires, but satisfying on a cold night.Risotto, probably the evening’s poorest showing, was morelike Uncle Ben’s rice with tomatoes. It had none of the comforting creaminess characteristic of the true dish. But entreesof carpaccio, served with Parmesan and mozzarella. A vealchop covered with brown sauce and mushrooms, and tartveal limone were all a success. The chocolate sauce on theprofneroles deserves special mention, but the winner in thedessert category was the sliced orange in Grand Marnier,topped with carmelized orange peel. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Moderate 10 expensive. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Monte Carlo. What has happened to thesunny exuberance that made our first visit to the Grand Kem-pinski’s flagship restaurant a Riviera-vacation adventure?That snap and sparkle is now nowhere visible. Chef RobertMorris’s new menu, co-created last summer with the hotel’sexecutive chef. Rene Peeters, could as easily be called NewAmerican as Mediterranean, and more attention seemed tohave been paid to showy plate presentations than to makingthe food taste as delightful as it looked. An appetizer of goatcheese rounds, for instance, breaded in pine nuts, arrivedbarely warm on a cold plate wearing a wash of tomato creamas thin as a coat of paint. Lobster bisque looked robust, buttasted more of shell than flesh, like a veal stock made ofmeatless bones. Steamed lemon sole was four fillet strips,tender and totally unseasoned, centered with nice fresh spinach: the plate’s zesty beurre blanc sauce, strewn with zucchini marbles and scrolled with carrot puree, was almostwonderful enough to counteract the dish’s essential bland-ness. A brace of boned quails, stunningly plumaged withpapery pastry leaves, also gained their only apparent seasoning from their spinach stuffing and accompanying wild riceand zucchini. A cinnamon-poached pear dessert came disappointingly chilled on crème anglaise; chocolate pistachiocake lay naked on its plate. Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel15201 Dallas Pkwy.. 386-6000 Expensive. -B.C
D Revisits The Martinez Café. The hole-in-the-wall original location has lots more atmosphere and belter food than the suburban branch. The secret to a happy meal here is to order anything made with a tortilla. The cheese enchiladas are the creamiest in town, and the chicken enchiladas balance a tan sour cream sauce with rectangles of melted, mellow white cheese. Crispy tacos and appetizers like nachos and flautas show that the kitchen knows how to fry a tortilla too, and even the fajitas come rolled up in a flourtortilla. More elaborate dishes like chicken molé and chilerelleno are less impressive, but still creditable. 3011 RouthSt. 855-0240. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.LT.
D Revisits Routh Street Café. On your bread plate,a baby yellow blossom. On your tongue, too-fleeting bliss:a mini-bite of velvety squab-liver mousse, piped on a toastcurl the size and thickness of a rose leaf-tonight’s horsd’oeuvre. Bread follows-a single perfect blue-corn breadstick, allotted as reverently as if it were gold, one to acustomer, along with a crusty, fresh white loaf for the table.So far, the script is familiar to Routh Street habitues, butfrom here it changes; the original prix-fixe procession ofcourses has become an a la carte format that lets you or- chestrate your dinner as you choose, from the menu’s 10 petizers, nine main courses, and 10 desserts. Our starters were exquisite-seared foie gras was crisp-edged, its centermeltingly tender, its surrounding complement of Calmayrefig wedges each draped with satin petals of prosciuttolime cream strewn with candied zest. Carpaccio of blackbuck antelope, shaved to near transparency, gained gustofrom creamy aioli and zestily dressed Mesclum salad. Mycompanion’s entrée was a symphonic composition of lambloin slices fanned around a timbale of couscous tingled withcandied ginger and tan fruit, on a rosemary-serrano saucethat somehow married everything on the plate. My pecan-breaded red snapper was less fortunate, its own m” ’character relegated to minor-role status by a rather exuberantfennel-grapefruit sauce, and by the accompanying gratin-likeround of potato and assertive goat cheese, mated with mi:young greens lightly bathed in vinaigrette. Under the oldrules, my companion and 1 could not have shared a dessert;this time, we cheated and did. Exulting in the smoothrichness of peanut butter-banana cream pie. 3005 RouthStreet. 87I-7161. Expensive to very expensive. -B.C
D Revisits SAD Oyster Company. This institution still serves up the kind of TLC you only get or even expectanymore from the most expensive restaurants. Our waiterpulled out our chairs and shook out our napkins as thoughwe were about to dine on foie gras and caviar instead of adozen of the Gulfs finest, fried. (We’ve been convinced tobe shy of the raw ones, but here, assured by our waiter thatin all his years he’s never heard of a problem resulting fromthis establishment’s oysters, we recklessly downed a dozenof those, too.) Broiled snapper was simple and perfectlyfresh in its sizzling butter, fried potatoes and hush puppieswere fine. Stick to the lemon pie for dessert. 2701 McKin-ney Ave. 8804111. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Baby Routh. Little siblings ought to bemore daring and outrageous, and Baby Routh surely experiments more audaciously than its big brother down thestreet. Adventure paid off in the stupendous venison-scamorza enchilada appetizer-the smoky taste harked backto the flavor of the great country sausage nobody seems tomake anymore. But it can result in more questionableresults, like the sake-marinated red snapper (imagine a verysour, very sweet ceviche drenched in a pale pink sauce).Similarly, lamb T-bones with curry risotto outscoredscallops whose macadarnia crust came loose too easily. Themost daring experiment of all, chocolate marble moussetart, came with an ancho-orangc glaze that was reallypicante-and it actually tasted good. 2708 Routh St.871-2345. Moderate to expensive. -W.LT.
D Revisits Bangkok Café. This cheerful café offerssome items not found at other local Thai restaurants-including buffets at both lunch and dinner that makea good introduction to the cuisine of old Siam. But orderingoff the menu lets you choose from among the more selectdishes. From the owner’s own village in Thailand comes theBangkok Café special BBQ chicken-coated with Sirachasauce, which tastes like Tabasco sauce that has been throughnuclear meltdown. The beef panang curry has a sauce of anuncharacteristic yellow color, but the flavor is nothing toquibble over-it’s delicious. The special fried rice, withchicken, pork, shrimp, and pineapple, could tempt you tomake a meal of it alone. 2112 E. Arapaho, Richardson.644-9405. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.LT.
Safl’s Afghan Cuisine. 14849 Inwood. Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.
Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines: Blvd. (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.
Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive
Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird,and Abrams). 823-5524- Inexpensive.
Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensiveto moderate.
Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062.1 Inexpensive.
Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Qua. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.
Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.
Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.
Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate colexpensive.
Lancashire Room. 127 E. Main St., Lancaster. 218-9215. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ball’s Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. Inexpensive.
Cardinal Puffs. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.
Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. North-west Hwy.. Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.
Club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Dr. 902-7990. Inexpensive, 8.0.2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Café. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive
Purdy’S. 4812 Belt Line. Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E. Campbell, Suite 101, Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Lane. 255-6447. Inexpensive.
Sneakers Grille and Bar. 9247 Skillman, 343-1125. Inexpensive to moderate.
Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.
Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.
Atchafalaya Rtver Café. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.
Café Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.
Copeland’s. 4544 McKinney Ave. 522-9170. Inexpensive to moderate.
Crescent City Café. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.
Dodle’s Seafood Café. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. At Parker Road, Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse, 14951 Midway Rd., Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.
The Pontchartrain. 13444 Preston Road. 385-1522. Inexpensive to moderate.
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Bell Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy. Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.
Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent. Suite 148. 871-6868. Moderate to expensive.
Café Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Canton. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.
Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy.. United Artists Plaza 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Belt Line between Addison and Midway roads). Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
First Chinese B-B-Q. 111 S. Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk, Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line, Suite 200, Ad-dison. 991-6867. Moderate.
Stlx Asian Grill. 3827 Lemmon Ave. 522-4056. Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner, Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Road at Buckner. 321-7599. Inexpensive to moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.
TastyChina.3514-AW.Wa.iuii. Garland 276-1999. Inexpensive.
Tong’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.
Tone’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tal’s. 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.
Dallul. 2515 Inwood (at Maple). 353-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.
River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.
Addison Café. 5290 Bell Line, Addison. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.
Café Amaretto. The Crescent Court. Maple at McKinney. 855-8855. Moderate to expensive.
Café Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate.
Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane. Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.
Epicure Highland Park. 69 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 520-8501. Moderate to expensive.
Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 502.233-8855. Moderate to expensive.
Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple Ave. at Wolf. 871-2523. Expensive.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 521-0182. NorthPark Mall. 696-2398. Inexpensive.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.
Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032, Very expensive.
Reynler’s French Bakery. 434 Spanish Village, Arapaho at Coit. 387-9063. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.
St. Martin’s. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.
York St. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.
Café Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive. Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson, 826-6209. Moderate.
The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road at Buckner. 320 0426. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3830 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross Ave. 821-3121. Inexpensive.
Athens Café, 5290 Belt Line, Suite 118. Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.
Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd.. Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.
Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.
Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.
Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 8264910 Inexpensive.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
Bishop Arts Café. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W. Parker Rd., Suite 527, Plano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681 Moderate.
Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Griffin. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.
Good Eats Café. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Road. 327-3663. Lincoln Plaza. Second Floor, 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.
Mania’s Daughter’s Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. 111 S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Totbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul and Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.
Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line, Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston Rd., Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Mumtaz. The Atrium, 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave., Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.
Shallmar. 35 Richardson Heights Village. Central at Betl Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.
Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 179. 692-0535- Moderate.
Acapella Café. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.
Alesslo’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.
Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.
Avantl. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).
Café Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane. Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.
Caprlcclo. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.
Chiantl. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Moderate.
Fausto’s. 300 Reunion Blvd., in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.
II Sorrento. 8616 Tunic Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.
Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Trattoria Lombard). 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.
Lombardl’s at Travis Walk. 4514 Travis Walk 521-1480. Moderate.
Lombardl’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Lane. .361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.
Massimo da Miiano. 5519 W Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place in the NCNB Plaza. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mike’s Spaghetti Inn. 6465 E Mockingbird. 827-7035. Inexpensive.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lane. Suite A2. 234-6800. 2704 Elm St. 7484222. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Suite 37, Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.
Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.
Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011.4002 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln. (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.
Scuro. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.
Sfuzzl. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 510 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4860 Bell Lin. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village, Suite 160. .1309 N. Central Expwy.. Piano. 881-0328. Moderate
Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Aw.. Suite 101. 361-9282 Moderate to expensive.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line. Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.
Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate.
Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood Rd.. 351-6922. Moderate.
Koreana. Highpnim Village. 12101 Greenville Ave.. #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Korean Rib. 3205 Alma Drive. Suite 401. Piano. 423-8676.
Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Piccola Cucina. 1030 NorthPark Center. Suite 330. 691-0488 Moderate.
Scampi’s. 2704 Worthington. 220-2215. Moderate to expensive.
Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston. #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Cantlna Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill 987-9192. Moderate.
Casa Domlnguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.
Casa Rosa. 165 inwood Village ( Inwood at Lovers Lane). 350-5227. Moderate.
Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 9464238. Inexpensive to Moderate.
Flamingo Joe’s.2712 Main at Crowdus. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
J. Pepe’s Restaurant and Cantina. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 115. in the Quadrangle. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.
Las Cazuelas. 3943 Columbia Ave. 827-1889. Inexpensive.
La SupremaTortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 121. 388-I244. Inexpensive.
Loma Luna Café. 413! Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston Rd.. Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.
Los Arcos. 3308 Ross Ave. 826-5020. Moderate.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Freeway at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiqulta. 4514 Travis, Suite 318 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400. in Rosa Village. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
Prime’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.
ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 5214456. 2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center. 15400 Coit, Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.
Bluebonnet Café & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
Dream Café. 2800 Routh St in the Quadrangle. Suite 170. 954-0486. Inexpensive.
Phil’s Café. 2815 Elm. 761-8400. Inexpensive.
Actuelle. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.
Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700 Moderate to expensive.
Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Expensive.
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
City Café. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.
Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Ellum Café. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.
Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West. 1590 LBJ. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.
Gershwln’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave.
373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. Westin Hotel. Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.
Kathleen’s Art Café. 4424 Lovers Ln. (between the To! I way and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.
Landmark Café. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit Drive. Off Coil near LBJ Freeway. 385-3000 Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.
Mallbu Café. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.
Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.
Sam’s Café. 100 Crescent Court. Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.
Atlantic Café Too! 14866 Morn fort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Bay Street. 5348 Belt Line. Addison. 934-8501. Moderate.
Café America. 4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Expensive.
Café Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Café. 1915 N. Central Expwy. At Chisholm, Suite 600. Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Preston Center. 8411 Preston. Berkshire and Northwest Highway. 739-3474. Moderate.
Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-29K). Inexpensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line, Addison. 386-0122 or 387-4231. Inexpensive to moderate.
Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. 363-3896. Moderate.
Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy. 980-8950. Expensive.
Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.
Sea Shells & Stuff. 9205 Skillman, Suite 110. 348- 3082. Moderate.
Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman. Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.
Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Parkway in Sakowitz Village. Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
Café Madrid. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731 Inexpensive to moderate.
Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 303 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.
Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.
The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.
Wellington. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.
Al’s New York Style Dell. 3301 Oak Lawn, Suite A (entrance on Half). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135. Inexpensive.
Basel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd. 980-1444. Inexpensive.
Bageistein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammel! Crow Center, Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Dell News. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.
The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.
Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm Street, Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.
Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pat’s Park Cities. 6617 Snider Plaza. 363-7797. Inexpensive.
Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
New Slam. 2415 Willowbrook, Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.
Thal Cuisine. 1915 Central Expressway (off Park), Piano. 422-5219. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Nlpa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Taste. 4501 Cole Ave 521-3513. Inexpensive to moderate.
Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.
Arc-en-Ciei. 3555 W. Walnut Rd., Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ba-Le. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. Inexpensive.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mai’s Cuisine. 4814 Greenville Ave. 739-5424. Inexpensive.
Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200. Inexpensive.
Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W Abrams, Arlington. Metro (817) 261-0488. Moderate to expensive.
Cacharel. (French) Brookbollow Two. 2221 E. Lamar, Suite 900. Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur. Las Co-linas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St.. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.
Gaspars. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Rd,. Cop-pell. 393-5152. Moderate.
Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd.. Suite 301, Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.
Moretti’s. (Italian) 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza. Arlington. (817) 261-6604. Moderate.
Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur. Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
Café Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh St. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.
Hedary’s, (Lebanese) 3308 FairfieId at Camp Bowie Boulevard. (817)731-6961. Moderate.
Jon’s Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive,
Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second, (817) 335-1777. Moderate.
Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.
Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive.
Angry Dog. 2726 Commerce. 741-4406.
The Art Bar. 2803 Main St. 939-0077.
Arthur’s. Campbell Centre. 8350 N. Central Expwy.
Bolter Room. Pan of Dallas Alley in the West End Mar-
ketPlace. 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.
Bolero. 4515 Travis. 521-6071.
Buyers Bar. Stouffer Hotel. 2222 Stemmons Frwy.
Club Clearview. 2806 Elm St. 939-0006.
Club Dada. 2720 Elm St. at Crowdus. 744-3232.
Dave’s Art Pawn Shop. 2544 Elm. 748-7111.
The Den. Stoneleigh Terrace Hotel. 2927 Maple. 871-7111.
Dick’s Last Resort. Corner of Record and Ross.
Encounters. Doubletree Hotel. 8250 N. Central Expwy.
Exodus. 210 N. Crowdus. 748-7871.
Froggy Bottoms. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N. Lamar. 988-0581.
Igby’s. Loews Anatole Hotel. Stemmons at Wycliff.
Industry. 2920 Canton. 748-9300.
Institute. 2727 Canton. 747-8410
Knox Street Pub. 3230 Knox. 526-9476
The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151.
Louie’s. 1839 N. Henderson. 826-0505.
The Lounge. 5460 W. Lovers Ln. 350-7834.
Netwerk 403. 5500 Greenville Ave.. Suite 403. 361-9517.
Milo Butterflnger’s. 5645 Yale. 368-9212.
The Outback Pub. 1701 N. Market. 761-9355.
Pasha. 2911 McKinney. 754-7198.
Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.
The Rhythm Room. 5627 Dyer 890-0944
WINING & DINI