Thursday, October 6, 2022 Oct 6, 2022
83° F Dallas, TX


By D Magazine |


Zagat, the folks who survey restaurants for a living, recently asked 8,500 restaurant-goers what they thought the food trends of the 1990s would be. While some of the answers are no surprise (leaner, lighter, healthier fare), a few, like the following, got our attention: designer ketchups, artichoke oil, macrobiotic African food, casseroles, borscht, tapioca, and Sino-Japanese-Califor-nian-French cuisine. Remember, you heard it here first.


ON THE ROAD Fort Worth’s southernsuburbs, Crow ley among them, are mostlythought of as kicker country-hardly theplace you’d look for a nifty Frenchrestaurant. Hardly the place you’ll find one,either, unless you know enough to motordown Interstate 35W on a Friday night, exitwest on Crowley Road, and nip around thefirst Texaco station you see on your left to thestrip shopping center that houses Le Cafe.Most weekdays, the eatery serves home-cooked American breakfasts and lunchesonly; but on Fridays, French-born ownerYvette Le Gros (right) reaches back to hernative roots to whip up three-course dinnersthat reflect her upbringing. The menu ofprovincial specialties varies, but you can besure it’s real-thing authentic, right down tothe French bread and sweet butter placed onyour table by Madame Le Gros’s daughter,Bernadette. -Betty Cook

A Fondue Redux

Trends Fondue, I’ve always thought, was a passing fancy in a home-ec dream, suitable at the kind of post-Fifties parties where the hostess wore her best appliquéd apron-the successor to the backyard luau. Simply Fondue, on Lower Greenville, has proved me wrong. Evidently, there was an empty fondue niche in Dallas aching to be filled: Simply Fondue was packed the evening of our visit.

It was cold outside, warm inside, with a cozy, faux après-ski atmosphere. We ordered soup-to-nuts fondue-two kinds of cheese as an appetizer, meat, chicken, and shellfish for an entree, and dark and white chocolate for dessert. The cheese was easy. Our waiter fired up the fondue pots on the built-in burners; we impaled bread chunks on our color-coded fondue forks and dipped away. The complications came with the main course. Our waiter brought us each a miniature platter of beef and chicken chunks, shrimp, mushrooms, and scallops, two batters, four sauces, mushroom stuffing, and several minutes of rather detailed instructions. Then we were on our own. Almost immediately there were battles over crossed forks, confusion over fork colors and, needless to say, no one had worn a watch. As we sat there counting “one thousand one, one thousand two . . . ,” it dawned on me that I had paid to slave over a hot stove, the single domestic burden I had unloaded by becoming a restaurant critic.

I do have a solution, though. There is another food niche in this town that is certainly unfilled. It involves four microwave ovens built into a table with everyone getting their own roll of paper towels. We’ll call it something like “Simply Nuclear,” I think.

-Mary Brown Malouf

Sturgeon: Fish For a King


gastronome worth their salt thinks “caviar” when they hear “sturgeon”; their roe becomes the finest caviar available. But, in ancient times, these ugly fish were prized for more than their eggs. Henry I actually decreed that sturgeon could only be served at the king’s table.

Sturgeon has never been a table fish in this country until recent years. Now that we have learned to eat exotic fish with tongue-twisting names like tilapia and mahi-mahi, it’s not so much of a surprise to find sturgeon making its way to our plates. Farm-raised white sturgeon contains only three percent fat-84 calories per six-ounce serving-and contains three to five times the levelof cholesterol-lowering Omega-3 ofmost other fish; but it’s not thehealth benefits that have increasedsturgeon’s popularity, it’s theflavor. Randall Warder, executivesous chef at the Mansion onTurtle Creek (where they sellout of sturgeon every time it’son the menu) describes it as a”pristine white fish. It’s meaty,but with a delicate flavor.”Warder sautées it in a veryhot pan, then serves it with one ofthe Mansion’s hybrid sauces or, verysimply and naturally, with butter andcaviar. -Mary Brown Malouf



You say you get these passionate longings for an occasional deep-fried snack? Give in to them, I say, and forget the guilt- at least if it’s onion rings you’re craving. best sources in town for onion-ring fried joy are:

Bob White’s Barbe-cue, 491S Military Parkway, batters them fresh, fries them fast, and serves up a sizzling helping for only $1.25. These babies are worth the trip, with or without the barbecue.

Colter’s starts with colossal yellows, slices them thick, and dredges them in seasoned flour. Pick yours up at the drive-through window, all locations, $1.99 for two individual servings, $1.49.

Friday’s insists on big reds, the sweet Spanish kind, dipped in a patented batter involving eggs and special seasoning. All locations, $2.95 for the basket.

Keller’s Drive-Ins do a conventional version of the classic O, with their thick-battered, tender-hearted rings, fried to solid gold for a mere $1.25. All locations.

Copeland’s in-spires us to cheat a little bit with our standard onion ring definition, with Its Onion Mum-not rings at all, but a onion slashed into petals, crisped in ice water, and dusted with a garlicky and delicious dry batter. Pick off the petals, dip them into horseradish-laced rosette sauce, and play “loves me, loves me not” with your valentine. All locations. $5.95. -Betty Cook


Bravo Bravo

BRAVO The creative wits who designed Bravo can do my house any time. The McKinney Avenue space, which seemed cheerful and charming enough when it housed Bravo’s predecessor, Crackers, is now all that and stylishly good-humored, too. I defy anyone to enter without smiling at the faux little fling of fringed carpet that’s painted on the doorstep. Or the soft folds of black-and-white checked curtains-also painted-that form fool-the-eye frames around real lace-paneled windows. Clear blue and green walls set off the crisp black-and-white motif, which is carried through to the last detail, even to napkin rings and the jaunty ribbon bow on the reserve roll of tissue in the loo.

In concept, Bravo’s food is as refreshing as its decor. Rather than separate courses, the dinner menu lists 19 “demi-platters”- dishes served in portions that are larger than small plates or appetizers, but smaller than standard entrees-which can be combined or shared to compose any size meal you choose. In execution, some of the avant-sounding items we tried lacked the sure-handed symmetry of the surroundings. Baked brie would have been nicer without its rather soggy phyllo wrapper, and the over-pungent cranberry chutney served with it declared instant war on the plate’s pretty spread of fresh fruit. Lobster strudel held near-crunchy chunks of white meat with mushrooms in its phyllo-rolled heart, but again, its delicacy was assaulted by a super-tart lemon garlic sauce.

Salads were excellent-a house toss of lettuces strewn with vegetable matchsticks in herbed vinaigrette, a Caesar touched with anchovy to just the right degree. Grilled meats came off well: lamb chops were a pair of perfect babies, their dollop of the dreaded cranberry chutney easily ignored in favor of the sweet-sour red cabbage on the plate; beef tenderloin medallions were succulent on caramelized onions in Burgundy-spiked mushroom sauce. A special of scallops and pimiento fet-tuccini was a study in silky subtlety, with more of the matchstick vegetables for crunch.

Our dessert, ginger crime brulée, was as pleasantly smooth and spirited as the service. 2621 McKinney. 871-2786. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon.-Fri. 6:30-mid-night, Sat. 11:30 a.m.-midnight. MC, V, DC. Moderate. -Betty Cook

La Margarita-ville

LA MARGARITA This new family-run Mexican restaurant boasts a number of unusual and delicious items on its menu. The surprises begin with the appetizers; the antojitos tray-along with the standard stuffed jalapenos, guacamole, and queso dip-offers sopes de chorizo (little boats of tortilla dough grilled and drizzled with spicy Mexican sausage). Also beguiling are the nachos marinos, billed as being topped with “seasoned crabmeat and shrimp with jack cheese.” We suspected the crab meat of being imitation, but that didn’t stop us from fighting over the last of the tantalizing nacho tidbits.

La Margarita serves good Tex-Mex platters and tangy fajita platters, but the specialties are far more interesting. The chili muerto is a version of chile relleno with a sauce that barkens back to a famous Mexico City dish; the sweetish cream-and-nut sauce may seem odd at first, but it makes a subtle counterpoint to the pepper’s filling, which contains raisins, almonds, carrots, and potatoes along with the chopped beef. The tender and exotic Pollo Maria is a sautéed chicken breast flamed with Cuervo Gold and enriched with wine and mushrooms. Perhaps best of all, the camarones al campesino tosses big shrimp with capers, onions, garlic, bell pepper, and cilantro to produce a very assertive complexity.

The thick flour tortillas that accompany the dishes here seem homemade, too. The desserts on the menu include very chewy sopapillas, a dense, creamy flan, and the authentic Mexican sweet known as chongos zamoranos (little custardy curds in a sweet sauce).

We were by no means able to try all thenovel-sounding dishes on the menu, butwe’ll definitely return to sample the catfishtacos. If only there were more MetroplexMexican restaurants that dared to be just alittle different, like La Margarita. 3636 N.Belt Line, Irving. 570-1137. Sun.-Thurs. 11a.m.-9:30 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m.-I0:30p.m. All credit cards. Inexpensive tomoderate. -W.L. Taitte

Mi Casa, Su Casa

MI CASA TEX MEX RESTAURANT The corner location of this new Preston Center restaurant has a festive air about it-the decorations are Mexican artifacts and cases of longnecks. The owners are related to the family that owns the El Chico chain, but Mi Casa is a completely independent entity.

Mi Casa’s food cannily blends hearty Tex-Mex with uptown touches. The tortilla soup is listed on the menu, for instance, as “a la Mansion,” the pico de gallo has a cool note of cucumber added, and a prize-winning, flan-like dessert of custard rolled in nuts and fried is dubbed “Flan Brulée.”

The most important thing to get right for any Tex-Mex establishment is the basics, and here too Mi Casa mostly succeeds. The cheese enchiladas are as good as they get, and the beef fajitas come to the table smoky-tasting and cooked to a turn. The kitchen could expend a bit more care, though, in making sure things that ought to be crispy turn out that way. Both the nachos and beef tacos we tried were found to be disappointingly soggy.

Diners who want something more out of the ordinary can sample a good guiso de puerco (a spicy stew of pork, carrots, and potatoes) and an excellent gulf snapper mojo de ajo (crisply sautéed with a citrusy garlic butter). Both dishes come with a small bowl of borracho beans on the side, lively with the taste of cilantro.

Besides Mi Casa’s elegant Flan Brulée, there is another special dessert which is equally outstanding: apple chimichangas- fresh fruit wrapped in pastry and deep-fried, then topped with vanilla ice cream. It’s temptingly decadent. 8301 Westchester, at Luther Lane. 890-9939. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun. noon-8 p.m. Ail credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.



D Revisits Chez Gerard. After a pair of disappointing appetizers-onion soup that had been gratinéed to the point of tasting like burnt rubber, and a napoleon of duck livers and sweetbreads that had a delicious pastry and sauce, but suffered again from overcooked, lough main ingredients- the rest of our meal redeemed itself. Tournedos Felix Faure turned out to be a snazzy version of pepper steak, fork tender and perfectly cooked. And a delicate sauce of sorrel and those tiny shellfish called periwinkles crowned a special of salmon trout. We finished with a cappuccino mousse that smacked assertively of coffee and a light, eggy chocolate soufflé that was also mousse-like in its consistency. 4444 UcKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.


D Revisits Cafe Athenee. This is the only Romanian restaurant in Dallas, and since chances are you don’t know whether or not you like Romanian food, it’s worth a visit. Behind the undistinguished exterior (in a North Dallas strip mall) is a genuinely romantic restaurant, its romance not diminished by the frank heartiness of its food. Lovingly tended by its owners, Athenee is cozy and candlelit within, and the service is comfortable and considerate. The food, a blend of German and Mediterranean flavors, is on the heavy side; The appetizer sampler included eggplant stuffed with minced vegetables in a tomato sauce, plump and spicy Romanian sausage, soft, chicken-stuffed dolmas, and a salad of roasted red peppers in oil. The moussaka casserole of layered meat and eggplant was better than the version served in most local Creek restaurants. Our favorite entree, oddly titled “Combo the Best,” combined slices of while pork loin with slices of the spicy sausage in a red wine sauce. Delicious, but designed to last you awhile. 5365 Spring Valley Road at Montfort. 239-8060. Moderate.

-Mary Brown Malouf


D Revisits Athens Cafe. The warm welcome sets this tittle Greek cafe apart from most of the others in town, where you so often have to make yourself heard above the floor show. The appetizers here at first make you suspect that the food will be head-and-shoulders above the competition, too. In addition to the delicious dip of tarama (red caviar) and the only really tasty, non-soggy version of spanakopita (spinach pie) I’ve ever tasted, the sampler platter also includes superbly roasted slices of gyros meat. The main dishes, though very good, don’t quite live up to the prelude. Shrimp corfu are overwhelmed by their basil-tomato sauce topped off with feta cheese, and the many ingredients in the moussaka (iamb, eggplant, and so on) don’t quite balance each other to compose a harmonious whole. But the souvlaki (skewered meat) and those sensational appetizers still makethe Athens Cafe a delightful way to explore Creek food atvery reasonable prices. 5290 Belt Line. Suite 118, Addison.991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L. T.


D Revisits Acapella Cafe. We were surprised by trulyterrific pizza on our last visit, recalling that this eatery hadits origins in one of our favorite pizza places. The selectionof toppings is novel and the results raise the pepperoni, into the extraordinary (thin, crisp-broiledslices of the sausage were strewn thickly on the outstandingcrust). At the same time, more bizarre combinations, like theso-called “Greek pizza.” topped with lamb strips, fetacheese, tomatoes, and mint leaves, meld together and seemperfectly logical. The rest of our dinner was good, but notas remarkable as the pizzas. The service was competent, andthe setting, an old house on Maple Avenue, is saved fromcuteness by the clever contrast of framed photographs, barefloors, and lace curtains. 2508 Maple Ave. 871-2262.Moderate. -M. B. M.

D Revisits Patrizio. This unpretentious, well-priced restaurant is always packed, though at a recent lunch the wait was not uncomfortable. The menu wisely does not aim too high, offering mostly simple, appealing dishes; our lunch of bruschetta (grilled bread topped with garlic, chopped tomatoes, and cheese) and a platter of vegetables (asparagus. peppers, carrots, zucchini, and squash, well-oiled and lightly grilled, sided with a slab of Parmesan polenta) was typical. Another day we tried the Caesar salad-blandly dressed but topped with great homemade croutons-along with an order of oversized, toasted ravioli, the big, chewy-crisp squares filled with creamy ricotta and served with tangy marinara for dipping. A huge grilled-chicken salad was also a winner-torn leaves of spinach and romaine tossed with a meal’s worth of chicken strips, bacon bits, artichoke hearts, and red pepper strips. There are some nice half-bottles on the wine list, making this a good spot for a twosome, and we think this is one of the prettiest restaurants in town-the worn oriental carpets, creamy walls, and painted beams lend a mellow. Old world touch. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878 Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B.M.


D Revisits Actuelle. In food as in fashion, stylesevolve-or is my memory only playing tricks on me?Whichever, presentations on this recent visit were showierthan I remembered in past encounters with Chef VictorGielisse’s award-winning cuisine. Besides the elements mentioned on the menu, every plate we sampled, from appetizersto desserts, held what I can only term an embarrassment ofriches. I’m not complaining, exactly, but my first course offine duck sausage and hazelnut-crusted goal cheese hardlyneeded the flower-topped extravagance of greens andvegetables that were heaped beside them. Ditto my companion’s impeccable steak tartare, which was equally over-embellished. Not to labor the point further, the featuredcomponents that moved us to order each dish were, asalways, superb: port-sauced roast loin of lamb, meltinglytender, with spinach soufflé and lemon thyme potato pie;grilled mahi-mahi, pearly and perfect on curry sauce witha splendid mélange of braised black and while beans, corn,and diced turnip. Side plates served with these each involvedstunning compositions of vegetables, plain (baby greenbeans, celery, turnips) and in patties (potato) and timbales(mushroom of course). Desserts were compelling, particularly a nobly simple fresh fruit cobbler with rum-spikedwhipped cream, and service was as perfect as service evergets. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle. 855-0440 Expensive to very expensive. -B.C


D Revisits Hampton’s. A great-looking restaurant in a convenient location serving impeccably fresh, usually well-cooked food. What could possibly be wrong? Not much, except for the fact that my last meal at Hampton’s lasted so long-like two-and-a-half hours long. I can only guess thai our confused waiter was brand-new, or 1 could resort to the old joke about the cook having to catch the fish first. The food, in any case, was first-rate, as usual: creamy crab and cheese quesadillas, fragrant honey-basil dressing on squeaky-clean spinach leaves, and perfectly grilled salmon. Desserts were skippable. If I could have only pushed “fast forward,” everything would have been fine. 8411 Preston in Presion Center. 739-3474. Moderate. -M.B.M.


D Revisits Brazos. This place deserves its reputation for innovative cooking that you can enjoy on a budget-the recipes often rival in imagination and execution the foodserved (for twice the price) at Dallas’s premiere restaurants.On our last visit we had to sample the famous taco chivere(son of a goat cheese quesadilla) and were duly impressed.But it couldn’t compete with the heavenly brocnette of apple-smoked chicken sausage. The menu divides itself betweena few homestyle dishes and the more fanciful and fancy ones.But why would anybody settle for a homey casserole likeKing Ranch chicken, good as it is, when the kitchen turnsout magical creations like fresh halibut steamed in a big leafof the Mexican herb called hoja santa, or spicy marinatedand grilled duck breast with warm tangerine and sesamevinaigrette? When dining here it’s imperative that you leaveroom for the equally special desserts. Ancho fudge pie, withits hot pepper bite, tastes much better than it sounds, andwinter shortcake with blackberry ice cream turns out to bea complex concoction of fresh fruit and homebaked pastry. 2100 Greenville Ave., at Prospect. 321-6501. Moderate toexpensive. -W.L.T.


D Revisits Thai Taste. The handsome bar and thestaircases graciously leading up to the balcony tables makethis far and away the most attractive Thai restaurant intown. The menu continues the note of elegance, turning outthe usual Thai dishes, but with a refinement you won’t findelsewhere. The vaunted Thai taco appetizer, with its red-tinted coconut and peanut garnishes, doesn’t really tasteas good as it sounds. But the wonton with crab soup morethan makes up for it. Barbecue pork on a stick Thai Style isheartier (and chewier) than the more frequently seen sate.Also unusual are the crab claws with yellow curry and mixedvegetables. Perhaps best of all. however, are the tendermorsels of chicken and cubes of eggplant swimming inThai green curry with coconut milk. The only downsideto the fastidiously prepared dishes here is that the portions sometimes seem small. 4501 Cole Ave. 521-3513.Moderate. -W.L.T




Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14849 Inwood. Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.


Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.

Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.

Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.

Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524 Inexpensive.

Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.

Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Inexpensive.

Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.

Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.


Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.

Lancashire Room. 127 E. Main St., Lancaster. 218-9215. Inexpensive to moderate.


Ball’s Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.

club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Drive. 902-7990. Inexpensive.

8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line, Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E. Campbell. Suite 101, Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Lane. 255-6447. Inexpensive.

Sneakers Grille and Bar. 9247 Skillman. 343-1125. Inexpensive to moderate.

Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway, Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.


Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.

Copeland’s. 4544 McKinney Ave. 522-9170. Inexpensive to moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890.Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road. Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Road, Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.

The PDontchartrain. 13444 Preston Road. 383-1522. Inexpensive to moderate.


August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy, Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent, Suite 148. 871-6868. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Plano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.

Canton. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.

Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Belt Line between Addison and Midway roads). Addison. 387-1776 Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

First Chinese B-B-Q. 111 S.Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

Hong Kong Royals. 221 W. Polk, Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200, Ad-dison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Stix Asian Grill. 3827 Lemmon Ave. 522-4056. Inexpensive.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N. Buckner, Suite 128, Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Road at Buckner. 321-7599. Inexpensive to moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.

Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut, Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Tang’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Gallena. 934-9998. Expensive.


Dallul. 2515 Inwood (at Maple). 353-0804. Inexpensiveio moderate.

River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.


AddIson Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Amaretto. The Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney. 855-8855. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane. Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Epicure Highland Park. 69 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 520-8501. Moderate to expensive.

Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel, 2927 Maple Ave. at Wolf. 871-2523. Expensive.

The French Room. The Adulphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. NorthPark Mall. 696-3398. inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.

Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

Reynier’s French Bakery. 434 Spanish Village, Arapaho at Coil. 387-9063. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

St. Martin’s. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.

Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.


Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510, Expensive.

Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Road at Buckner. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bath man Creek, 3830 W. North-west Hwy., Suite 390. .158-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross Ave. 821-3121. Inexpensive.


Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd., Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.

Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.

Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.

Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.


Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W. Parker Rd., Suite 527. Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Moderate.

Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Griffin. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.

Gentile’s Bishop Grille. 309 N. Bishop Ave. 946-1752. Inexpensive

Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522 3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 732 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Road. 327-3663. Lincoln Plaza, Second Floor. 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughter’s Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. 111 S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.

Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Lane. 691-2976. Inexpensive.


Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line, Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston Rd., Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Mumtaz. The Atrium. 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave., Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.

Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village, Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.

Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.


Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.

Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).

Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Lane, Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Moderate.

Fausto’s. 300 Reunion Blvd, in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Moderate.

Flip’s Wine Bar & trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

11 Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderateto expensive.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

LaToaca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

La Trattoria Lombardi. 2916 N. Hal). 954-0803. Moderate.

Lombardi’s at Travis Walk. 4514 Travis Walk. 521-1480. Moderate.

Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Lane. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place in the NCNB Building, 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mike’s Spaghetti Inn. 6465 E. Mockingbird. 827-7035. Inexpensive.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Lane. Suite A2. 234-6800. 2704 Elm St. 748-4222. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 37. Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.

Momo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodora. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7304. Moderate to expensive.

Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Lane at Preston. 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Scuro. 2713 Elm St. 741-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.


Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood, 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W Northwest Hwy., Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza, 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village, Suite 360. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Plano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 101 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line. Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.

Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969.


Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood Rd., 351-6922. Moderate.

Koreana. Highpoint Village, 12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Korean Rib. 3205 Alma Drive, Suite 401. Plano. 423-8676.


Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.

Piccola Cucina. 1030 North Park Center, Suite 330. 691-0488. Moderate.

Scampi’s 2704 Wbrthington. 220-2215. Moderate to expensive.


Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village (Inwood at Lovers Lane). 350-5227. Moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

El Ranchlto. 610 W. Jefferson, 946-4238, Inexpensive to Moderate.

Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main at Crowdus. 748-6065. In-expensive to moderate.

Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.

Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

J. Pepe’s Restaurant and Cantina. 2800 Routh St., Suite 115, in the Quadrangle. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 3943 Columbia Ave. 827-1889. lnexpensive.

La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.

Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston Rd., Suite 100 (at Sherry Lane). 691-1552. Moderate.

Los Arcos. 3308 Ross Ave. 826-5020. Moderate.

Mario ft Alberto. LBJ Freeway at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis, Suite 318 (in Travis Wilk). 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400, in Rosa Village. Plano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village), Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

Prime’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900.4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456 2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. Inexpensive.


Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit, Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.


Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle, Suite 170 954-0486 Inexpensive.

Phil’s Cafe. 2815 Elm. 761-8400. Inexpensive.


Aransas Pass. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-8650. Moderate to expensive.

Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Expensive.

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.

City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-2233. Moderate.

Conservatory. Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3242. Very expensive.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.

Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West, 1590 LBJ. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.

Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit Drive, off Coil near LBJ Freeway. .185-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.

Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate. Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn, 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., Suite 180 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive in moderate.


Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Montfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Bay Street. 5348 Belt Line, Addison. 934-8501. Moderate.

Cafe America. 4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Expensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird 526-1170. Expensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm. Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line, Addison. 386-0122 or 387-4231. Inexpensive to moderate.

Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. 363-3896. Moderate.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate

Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.

Sea Shells & Stuff. 9205 Skillman, Suite 110. 348-3082. Moderate.

Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman. Suite 124. 341-3533. Inexpensive.


Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Parkway in Sakowitz Village. Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.


Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.


Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 303 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of I-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.

Wellington. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.


Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301 Oak Lawn. Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135, Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd. 980-1444. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center. 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Deli News. 15775 Hillcrest. Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive

The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn- 526-4070. Moderate.

Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm Street, Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.

Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pat’s Park Cities. 6617 Snider Plaza. 363-7797. Inexpensive

Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Lane. 373-0325. Inexpensive.

Tommato’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.


Bangkok Cafe. 2112 E. Arapaho at Jupiter. 644-9405. Inexpensive.

New Slam. 2415 Willowbrook. Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy. and Harry Hines). 356-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expressway (off Park), Plano. 422-5219. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Nlpa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.


Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut Rd., Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ba-Le. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. Inexpensive.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mai’s Cuisine. 4814 Greenville Ave. 739-5424. Inexpensive.

Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200. Inexpensive.

Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.


Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams, Arlington. Metro 817-261-0488. Moderate to expensive.

Cacharel. (French] Brookhollow Two. 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 900, Arlington. Metro 817-640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur, Las Co-linas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro 817-481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspare. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Road, Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd., Suite 301, Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.

Moretti’s. (Italian) 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington. 817-261-6604. Moderate.

Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.


Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817)332-8633. Inexpensive.

Cafe Aspen. {New American) 3416 W. Seventh St. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.

Kincaid’s Grocery. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 733-2881. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Boulevard. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.

Jon’s Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.

Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.

Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive,

Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.


8.0 Bar. 2800 Routh, in the Quadrangle. 979-0880.

Gator’s. 1714 N. Market. 748-0243.

Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691.

Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N. Central Expwy., Suite 600 (in The Corner Shopping Center). 750-5868. 4980 Belt Line at Quorum, Suite 250, Addison. 404-8503.

Levee at the Pontchartrain. 13444 N. Preston. 385-1522.

Memphis. Quorum Plaza, 5000 Bell Line. Suite 500. 386-9934.

Metronome. 703 McKinney. 720-1300.

Mimi’s. 5111 Greenville Ave. 368-1994.

Mucky Duck. 3102 Welborn in the Centrum. 522-7200.

Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.

State. 3611 Parry. 821-9246.

Stoneleigh P. 2926 Maple. 871-2346.

Studebaker’s. NorthPark East. 8788 N. Central Expwy. 696-2475.

Trees. 2709 Elm St. 748-5009.

2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.

Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.

The Voodoo Bar. 302 N. Market. 655-2627.

White Rock Yacht Club. 7324 Gaston, Suite 301. 328-3866.