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RESTAURANTS & BARS

By D Magazine |

DRINK OF THE MONTH

What better way to toast the end of the Cold War than with a jigger full of chilled Polish vodka? One of the most politically correct vodkas now available is Wodka Wyborowa, a best-sel-ler in Europe that’s only recent-ly become available state-side. The coolest way to serve it? Place the bottle in a fruit juice can, fill with water, and freeze. To release the bottle, quickly dip the can in hot water, and voila-a vodka Iceberg.

This fall, Agnew’s Wine Bin will gear up for private parties and tastings; he’ll also start offering wine selections by the glass. 4022 Oak Lawn. 520-8466.

WINE SELL

profile Tom Agnew has been in the restaurant business for a dozen years, chasing success and catching it more than a few times. Currently, he and his wife Kay are proprietors of Cafe Margaux, a Cajun restaurant in its second reincarnation on Oak Lawn Avenue. A couple of months ago, Tom got an itch to do something different, so he left Kay at the café and moved a couple of doors down to go solo in a new venture. Agnew’s Wine Bin officially opened July 2, with low overhead and a staff of one. The Wine Bin is a simple place with a simple premise: hand-selected, top-of-the-line wine for truly incredible prices. Initial response has been promising. “I stay open until 9 at night, Monday through Saturday, so I get a lot of customers that Kay sends over after they’ve had dinner at the restaurant. She puts them in the mood to buy, and I’m here waiting.” -Anne Warren

Thai-ing One On in Watagua



On The road The name sounds Hawaiian, the locale sounds remote, and both impressions are wrong, wrong, wrong. Situated twelve miles or so outside of Fort Worth. Mai Tai is a modest Thai eatery that in-the-know diners have

discovered as a dining adventure that can’t be beat. Here’s what you do: assemble a party of six to eight, call ahead to reserve the one big Lazy Susan table, and then really Thai one on. What you get is your own private buffet, set out on the bible’s revolving center for turnabout sharing. Recommendations? A few come to mind-Pad Thai, noodles stir-fried with shrimp, crisp tofu cubes, peanuts, bean sprouts, and onion, or Low Tide, a medley of shrimp, squid, mussels, and fish balls simmered with Mai Tai spice. Choose from the menu’s 101 (literally) items, and eat yourself silly. Take 183 west to Loop 820, go right on Rufe Snow Drive, right again to Watauga Road, and Mai Tai is on your left. 6253 Rufe Snow Drive. (817) 581-5981. Open daily 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-10 p.m.

-Betty Cook

A 7-Day Tune-Up

Bar sounds Some weeks require background music more than others. A few well-placed tunes to keep you going, to liven the pace, sort of a back beat for a busy life. Here’s a week of live music at a glance, starting mellow, building to a Saturday crescendo, and then easing out of the weekend with a wind-down Sunday.

MONDAY: Start the week off with happy hour at Cafe Le Jardin, 4900 McKinney, listening to the melodious sounds of Joe Cramer on piano.

TUESDAY: Slide into The Balcony Club next door to the Lakewood theater for a slight attitude adjustment at the hands of the incomparable G.T. Reed.

WEDNESDAY: Survive a mid-week slump at Gershwin’s, 8442 Walnut Hill, listening to piano-stylist Ed Smith.

THURSDAY: Kick into high gear with smokin’ Joe McBride at Dick’s Last Resort in the West End, with a begin-the-weekend-early happy hour from 5 to 7:30 p.m.

FRIDAY: Vocalist Pami Ray will torch your Friday night and put a little heat into your weekend, beginning at 9 p.m. at Papillon, 9330 LBJ Freeway.

SATURDAY: Drop by Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria on Lower Greenville for some blues courtesy of Willie Willis and the Wildcatters.

SUNDAY: Start off at Casa Rosa on Lovers Lane with flamenco guitarist Miguel Antonio from noon to 1 p.m., then segue to Galveston Island Seafood on Skillman for the Straight Ahead Jazz Quintet from 2 to 5 p.m. Then end the weekend at The Dream Cafe in the Quadrangle, where you can hear the Gyros String Quartet until closing. -Anne Warren

CHEAP EATS PLATE LUNCHES

Call a meal prix fixe, and it comes in courses and costs a mighty pretty penny. Call it plate lunch, and you’ve observed one of the oldest, most honorable American institutions at a price you can easily afford. A few favorite lunch spots are:

Ferguson Cafe: regulars don’t like outsiders to know about this hangout, where comfortable cognoscenti gather to visit that includes not three, but four vegetables with your meat. If it’s meat loaf, go for it; if it’s Thursday, these must be enchiladas. 1901 S. Akard. 428-9658.

Fred’s Cafe: Fort Worth downtowners head for the fringe of the glitzy Cultural District for a laid-back lunch in a place that looks like it was frozen back in the Forties. Chicken-fried steak’s the daily headliner; others rotate with three vegetables. Fred, by the way, was the owner’s dog. 915 Cur-rie. Fort Worth. (817) 332-0083.

Gennie’s Bishop Grill: the high-domed fresh yeast rolls are the house fave. Add great chicken- fried steak and cream gravy, fresh veggies, and celestial cream pies, and you’ve got the reason Dallas has venerated this tiny spot for years. Bishop at Eighth. 946-1752.

Vice Versa: yup, chicken-fried stars here, too, a superior crunchy version; other mains range from ham to crisp-fried catfish, with selections changing daily. Yeast rolls or homemade corn bread are good; the carrot cake’s outstanding. 6065 Sherry Lane. 691-2976.

-Betty Cook

NEW RESTAURANTS



An Airy Retreat

Scampi’s At first blink, the decor doesn’t look all that different from Scampi’s predecessor, Le Boul’ Mich, in the same quarters-the vintage-cottage ambience is as airy and homey as ever, the glassed-in ex-porch still a happy refuge for laid-back lunching and dining. A closer look, though, finds fresh touches; new owners Patrick Pastor and his wife, Katya, have invested some of themselves in prettying up the place.

The menu is warmer, too. having moved a few miles south from the classic casual French of the former occupant to a more robust Mediterranean climate incorporating Spanish and Italian accents along the way.

Appetizers, for instance, include tabouleh as well as quiche and paté selections. Two patés were fairly standard stuff, the duck mousse smooth and bland, the pepper a sturdy version with good bite. The tabouleh held more interest, its bulgur kernels zipped with cucumber, tomato, onion, and fragrant mint.

Main courses are listed as pastas, entrées, and Mediterranean specialties. One visit’s nice-enough seafood fettuccine paled in comparison to the perfection of a day’s-special salmon fillet, a breath of fresh sea air barely laced with baby dill and served with a bouquet of sautéed vegetables. Bouillabaisse held a melange of shrimp, mussels, clams, and fish nuggets in a broth that verged on too-salty, but my European-born companion’s request for the peppery rouille that traditionally accompanies this soup as a bread spread, but is often omitted here, was quickly granted with a pimento-garlic version that, though improvised, proved a delightful complement on toasts drizzled with olive oil. Best-of-show award, however, had to go to the house version of couscous, made from Katya Pastor’s family recipe. The fine flavors of Moroccan peasant cookery met here in a great dome of bulgur wheat studded with carrot, zucchini, garbanzos, even turnip, surrounded by juicy chunks of tender lamb shank. The dish, served with two sauces-one a raisin-sweetened jus, the other fiery-was simply splendid. 2704 Worthington. 220-2115. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Sat. 5-11 p.m. AH credit cards. Moderate to expensive.

-Betty Cook

Epicurean Delights

EPICURE HIGHLAND PARK Chef Christian Gerber, best remembered for his fabulous creations at the tiny bistro-takeout establishment Au Bon Gout a few years ago, is back in the kitchen at the spiffy new Epicure Highland Park. He has composed a menu that adds some trendy Southwestern dishes to the rich-tasting French specialties that are his long suit. Anyone for French-Mex? Brie quesadillas made with fresh basil, sun-dried tomatoes, and ethereally thin tortillas, with a spicy guacamole on the side, might convince you that this is not such a bad idea. The crabcakes, chock-full of large pieces of sweet crab meat, float on a sea of New Wave mole sauce (lighter in texture and clearer in flavor than the original recipe from Pueblo, Mexico) and are accompanied by a nicely seasoned black-bean relish.

Still, we’d trade all the chic Southwestern innovations here for any of the examples of Gerber’s more traditional fare. The mixed wild mushrooms in a port wine sauce define Continental savoir-faire, and a pasta special of plump ravioli filled with minced veal and bathed in a golden sauce that smelled heavily of that most expensive of spices, saffron, also makes a splendid starter. So do the two soups we tried, a hot tomato/basil and a cold cucumber/mint. Entrees include perhaps the best tortellini in town and a beautifully browned roast chicken with fresh herbs for those in search of something relatively light, or a special of thick veal medallions in a port wine sauce for those willing to shoot the works. The only dish we were disappointed in was a rather tasteless blackened sea bass fillet in a saffron tarragon sauce. Most of these main dishes come with a superior potatoes au gratin and a vegetable medley that included tiny fresh asparagus spears on our visits.

Best of all at Epicure Highland Park are the elaborate desserts: perfectly constructed fruit tarts, quenelles of light and dark chocolate mousse served over creme anglaise, and an intensely flavored orange flan. The kitchen also turns out the best versions of two classic European desserts we have ever sampled: clafoutis, a French pudding made with pancake batter and fresh berries and baked to crunchy tenderness, and a strudel (we sampled fresh peach) with a light, flaky pastry that helped us forget about all those soggy horrors that had passed themselves off as the same dish elsewhere. 69 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 520-8501. Lunch Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2:30p.m.; dinner Tue.- Sat. 6-10 p.m. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive. -W.L. Taitte



A Texas Tex-Mex

Combo



Sam’s Place The idea to combine Tex-Mex and regular Texas specialties like chicken-fried steak sounds intriguing, but the combo doesn’t work particularly well here. It’s nice to have Buffalo wings (not too spicy, with a smooth sauce with little bits of blue cheese in it) to go with the bacon, cheese, and green chili quesadillas. And Sam’s Banditos-miniature appetizer chimichangas filled with taco meat, rice, peppers, and corn, deep-fried and served with chili con queso-are kind of fun, too. Desserts also offer a pleasant choice between a rich Kahlua flan and lemon icebox pie.

But the main courses just don’t deliver. The Tex-Mex combination plates are huge platters on which everything tastes alike (even the refried beans have too much chili powder dumped into them). The chicken- fried steak is only so-so, tender enough but not quite crisp and covered with a glutinous, over-peppered gravy. The best main dishes by far here are the various fajita combinations. The chicken fajitas are especially tender and tasty, though curiously lacking in juice as if they had been cooked ahead. The grilled shrimp also have a nice smoky flavor, but sadly the beef fajitas seemed to have picked up a fishy off-taste from the shrimp. The bar is busy and the decor mostly consists of beer advertisements-Sam’s Place seems to cater to a rather hang-loose young crowd. Plaza on Bachman Creek, 3830 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-3217. Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11-11. AH credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.

A Colorful Experience



STIX ASIAN GRILL You couldn’t have failed to notice the steeply pitched roof on Lemmon Avenue, off Oak Lawn. Born an International House Of Pancakes, the building in this reincarnation was intended, I’m told, to introduce its new proprietors’ trademark peach-and-eggplant color scheme. The peach is closer to electric cantaloupe, and the roof could be anything from iridescent aubergine to screaming purple. You can’t possibly miss it.

You won’t want to. Partners Patrick Ravalais, Christian Clausen, and former Ciao co-owner Michael Zurvitz have created an urban jewel; called an Asian grill, and subtitled a dim-sum café, Stix aims to make its mark with an interfacing of Chinese, Thai, and American cuisines. Such mixes have been tried before, and failed, in Dallas. This one, though, should work-Chef Ravalais, who was chef at Marty’s, has avoided the highfalutin and hard to understand. His menu ranges from light-bite samplers to substantial dishes, most versions of familiar favorites, none mysterious, all modestly priced, clearly explained, and, on our dinner visit at least, beautifully prepared.

From the column headed “Win Sum & Dim Sum,” we tried four of the eight listed, and can’t wait to go back for the rest. Barbecued salmon ribbons were marinated strips, threaded satay-style on skewers and grilled barely crisp-edged, served with a subtle Thai dipping sauce. Garlic dumplings were succulent thin pasta pouches plump with minced chicken and water chestnuts, bathed in chili-spiked orange sauce redolent with garlic. My Thai dumplings filled the pouch with gingered shrimp and Chinese mushrooms in a deep-flavored peanut sauce. Ravalais sneaked in a sly French twist with cabbage dumplings; cabbage leaves were the dumpling skins, green gift wrap around a toothsome blend of shrimp and vegetables.

Spicy chicken coconut soup really was a treasure of chicken, mushrooms, and onions in broth that was artfully piquant-not hoo-boy hot, but cumulatively tongue-warming.

Thai high chicken was mouth-watering, too, tender breast meat marinated in tart-sweet time, chili, and honey. Thai Tex quail was a plump pair of the little birds, succulently stuffed with rice and minced vegetables and pungently sauced. A grilled salmon fillet sounded American, but shone with delicate seasonings that gave it a Pacific Rim complexity. 3827 Lemmon Ave. 522-4056. Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sat. & Sun. 11:30-11:30. All credit cards. Inexpensive. -B.C.

D REVISITS

BARBECUE



D Revisits Roscoe’s Easy Way. The menu here reads like a primer of regional food: chicken-fried steak, barbecue. Tex-Mex. and burgers. And most of it, while not out of this world, was pretty darned good. The (very light ly) smoked chicken was tender and juicy: the barbecued beef was tender, though it lacked the “red stripe” of the finest ’cue. Salads were refreshing piles of iceberg, lopped with grated Velveeta; the cheese enchiladas were melded into a single unit with the accompanying rice and refrieds by means of the same cheese food. Mashed potatoes were country-style, with lumps, French fries were a little limp, fried okra (Texas popcorn) was brown and crunchy. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



BRITISH



D Revisits Jennivine. In its early days, Jennivine made more attempts at cooking in a recognizably English style. Nowadays, about the only vestiges of that emphasis are some of the pates and cheeses available on the trays served as ap petizers or as accompaniments for drinks, and the English trifle in a fairly unorthodox version for dessert. Entrees presently run to vaguely nouvelle-ish things like roast duck with tangerine whiskey sauce and poached salmon with cilantro-chili sauce and a tomatillo relish. Perhaps more English in spirit than it intends to be, Jennivine executes these dishes with a reserved hand that makes the unusual in gredients fade into the background. But the cooking of the foodstuffs themselves-like impeccably moist and flaky salmon-leads to satisfaction. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010 Moderate So expensive. -W.L.T.



BURGERS



D Revisits Balls Hamburgers. Balls’ Big League burger is simply one of the best I’ve had anywhere, a half- pound of ground beef, lean and fresh enough to be served rare, if you like it that way. on its handsome heated bun with or without the standard fresh vegetable accompaniments. The onion rings here are no slouch, either-great bracelets, tender-centered in a near-greaseless fried crust. Light diners can do very well for themselves here with an order of Little Leaguers, dinner rolls filled with a mini-patty of meat, grilled onion, and deli-good dill pickle. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. inexpensive. -B.C.



CHINESE



D Revisits Beijing Grill. The food here is good, though the elegant look of the place leads you to expect a prettier presentation of the dishes, and its emptiness led us to expect better service. Crispy, five-spice quail looked pitiful, as the tiny birds often do, dissected and laid on a torn lettuce leaf, though we mercilessly crunched them up. Dumplings were properly chewy and crispy, the pork filling juicy and savory. From the grill menu we tried the Mon golian lamb chops, a quartet bathed in a deep brown sauce, Szechwan chicken was encased in a beignet-light gulden bat ter under a spicy Szechwan garlic sauce. 2200 Cedar Springs Rd. in the Crescent. 871-6868. Moderate. -M.B.M.



FRENCH

D Revisits Addison Cafe. This bistro is one of the most quietly wonderful little French eateries in the Metroplex. A starter of grilled scallops lay sweetly on roasted red bell peppers in superb garlic sauce: an intense, nearly sharp tomato bisque was gentled by the globe of smoky mozzarella that floated in its heart. Roasted tenderloin of lamb, barely blessed with rosemary, mated happily with its pinot noir sauce; baked salmon with spinach and mushroom was serenely complemented by a sauce of Meaux mustard that, in less skilled hands than this cafe’s chef, might easily have overwhelmed the delicate fish. A spectacular dessert of white chocolate mousse in a thin shell of dark chocolate on raspberry sauce made a striking presen tation, but Host my heart, as always, to the crème caramel’s more subtle flavors- 5290 Belt Line, Addison, 991-8824. Moderate to expensive. -B.C

D Revisits The Old Warsaw. Our latest visit found the service impeccable, the ambience mellow, the food as grand-and as pricey-as ever A starter of fresh crawfish sautéed with truffles in lobster sauce was too rich for the season, but layers of salmon and spinach with puff pastry leaves were light and lovely in an aromatic saffron sauce. Brie soup was ethereal, and the house salad’s pale endive leaves and watercress a simple joy. Braised pheasant took pleasantly to its game sauce, sautéed sweetbreads shone in a sparkling demi-glace, and side orders of crisp asparagus and truffle fettuccine offered stellar support. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive. -B. C.



GERMAN

D Revisits Belvedere. Unless you are over sixty, you will find yourself one of the younger diners here (Belvedere is attached to a retirement apartment building). But the at-mosphere is highly civilized and comfortable and the food is excellent, if rather pricey. The appetizers listed on the menu are not particularly enticing, but a special seafood crepe, filled bountifully with chopped shrimp, scallops, and salmon and glazed with a sauce lightly flavored with orange, justified ordering a first course. Any hunter would be proud to serve up his venison in the fashion of Belvedere’s Rehsteak Hubertus, in a sauce with lingonberries and rosemary. Veal Calvados, with its apple brandy and cream flavoring, was nicely set off with cooked green apple as well as spaetzle and fresh green beans. The chocolate desserts make a satisfying end to a meal. 4242 Lomo Alto 528-6510. Expensive.

-W.L.T.

GREEK

D Revisits Goldfinger. In a town with so few Greek restaurants, you may decide that it’s worth it to come here even if you can’t abide electric bouzouki music or shimmy- | ing midriffs. Saganaki, the flaming cheese appetizer, makes a festive beginning to a meal. The best item by far on the Greek sampler plate is the souvlaki-hunks of marinated beef skewered with pepper and onion slices-so it would be wiser to order this separately. Another house specialty is the rack of lamb, actually misnamed, since the large chops are charbroiled separately rather than as a group: they have a crusty, dark exterior that is almost burnt. Even better is the red snapper plaki, Greek style-the tomato, pepper, and red wine sauce is delicious. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.

HOME COOKING

D Revisits The Blue Onion Restaurant. On are cent visit, the food here seemed even better than we remem bered it. The serve-yourself dishes on the steam table looked far from appetizing, so we ordered off the menu and were amply rewarded. Both the fried catfish and the broiled fish of the day-snowy white halibut-were perfectly cooked in their very different ways. The noodles in chicken fettuccine were thick and homestyle, almost like dumplings, and came topped with a grilled, meaty breast. The chicken-fried steak was crisp and tender, but seemed heavy beside the other, more ladylike, entrees. 221 W. Parker Road, Suite 527, Plano. 424-2114. Inexpensive. -W.L.T.

INDIAN



D Revisits Kebab & Kurry. This has always been one of Dallas’s best Indian restaurants; on our last visit, though, it seemed even belter than usual. We began with the onion bhaji, chopped onions in a bright yellow chickpea batter, fried till crisp; and chicken chat, chunks of bright red tan- door chicken, mixed with chunks of potato and cucumber in a tamarind sauce gritty with ground spices (an initially alarming texture we soon grew used to). We had already ordered noor mahal biryani, a fragrant pilaf built around tender chunks of lamb, and tikki masala, chicken smothered in a subtle velvet sauce of tomato and cream, when we spied the special headed to another table and had to taste that too. Small emerald green bell pepper halves came heaped with a soft stuffing of peas, potatoes, and rice, served on a sizzling fajita skillet with lemon quarters to squeeze over it. 401 N. Central Expwy. 231-5556. Inexpensive.. -M.B.M.



ITALIAN



D Revisits II Sorrento. You don’t come to II Sorrento for culinary excitement. The menu is filled with old-fashioned standards, and that seems to be what most Folks eat. The veal parmigiana and chicken cacciatore, both in this category, are nice versions. Exploring the more adventuresome-sounding items doesn’t necessarily pay off. Broiled swordfish suffered from a mushy texture, and the artichoke hearts in the veal a la genovese seemed canned. A daily special of tri-colored fettuccine with seafood had a nice assortment of shellfish, not overcooked, but the noodles were long past the al dente stage, and the tomato sauce seemed pedestrian. If you stick to the old favorites at II Sorrento, you will probably come away pleased. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.



D Revisits Pasta Oggi. The surviving branch of this restaurant attracts customers because it serves quite a lot of food for the price, and the service is particularly solicitous and hard-working. Before every entree come a cup of soup and a salad tossed with a creamy Italian dressing. The items on the menu seem standard-chicken lasagna with a touch of nutmeg in the cheese and a sharp-tasting tomato sauce, fettuccine Alfredo that at least was not swimming in a watery sauce. Daily specials are a little more enterprising, but also a little higher priced. A thin New York strip steak was topped with peppers, mushrooms, and onions. One special disappointed expectations-the wording on the blackboard seemed to indicate that a plethora of seafood would grace a dish of angel hair pasta, but the promised crab meat, shrimp, and lobster were only minuscule amounts stuffing some mushroom caps. 4900 Bell Line. 386-7933. Moderate. -W.L.T.



JAPANESE



D Revisits Sakura Japanese Restaurant. The ornate, multileveled dining areas make Sakura seem like a fairy palace inviting exploration-it’s by far our largest and fanciest Japanese restaurant. The menu is not as ambitious- and several of the listed items (like the chawan-mushi, the delicious Japanese custard-like egg dish) never seem to be available anyway. It is also irritating that if you don’t want to go to the trouble of ordering sushi by the piece, you are not permitted to order a mixed assortment of sushi and sashimi, a favorite Japanese choice of ours. It is probably best here to stick wilh the simple dishes cooked at the table, .such as shabu shabu (beef simmered with vegetables in a light broth) or yosenabe (a one-dish casserole including an assortment of fish and seafood) and bask in the lovely sur roundings. 7402 Greenville Ave. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.



KOREAN



D Revisits Kobawoo. Dallas’s oldest Korean restaurant is still a fun place to eat. despite the smoky smell that comes from alt the gas grills for tabletop cooking. Some of the best dishes are in this style-the kalbi (chewy slices of beef from the short rib section, minus the bone) and the bulgogi (finertextured beef) come to the table raw on large platters for you to char to the desired degree of doneness. As the meat juices scar on the grill, the later slices taste even better than the first. Along with the meat come little bowls of vegetables including fresh spinach barely wilted, big bean sprouts. Flavored with sesame oil, a number of treatments of daikon, the big Asian radish that is more like a turnip, and incendiary kim chee (the Korean fermented cabbage). Other good choices here include the spicy fried chicken wings and Pe king noodles, stir-fried with tiny bits of meat and vegetables. 3109 Inwood Rd. 351-6922. Moderate. -W.L.T.



MEXICAN



D Revisits Casa Dominguez. Our last visit here began with as authentic a Mexican country dish as could be found anywhere, a caldo de res that was pure ambrosia. Of fered as a special of the day, the stew was a clear, seasoned broth heaped with big cuts of cabbage, carrot, onion, potato, and green bell pepper as well as tender beef. Our entrees were hardly less generous; shrimp Cozumel was a ruddy heap of spicy crustaceans beside a very plumply stuffed chicken enchilada in while cheese sauce, with fresh guaca- mole and even fresher pico de gallo providing nice color and flavor. Chicken enchiladas Acapulco style involved much white meat in a corn tortilla; its white cheese, supposed to be topped with salsa verde, was not, but a chilled portion of the green sauce was brought on request, and proved to be a delicate blend of tomatillo in cream. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



NEW AMERICAN



D Revisits Deep Ellum Cafe. This eclectic café has always experimented as much with Thai and Vietnamese seasonings as with Southwest and New Italian. Dishes such as green papaya and shrimp salad dressed with nuoc cham Thai-style barbecued ribs, and Thai barbecued chicken, next to chicken and dill dumplings and chili con queso, make up one of the most varied menus in town. The casual, slightly bohemian atmosphere and friendly service make dining here thoroughly enjoyable. On our last visit we enjoyed a Viet namese chicken salad-grilled chicken breast with cucum bers, cilantro, carrot shreds, and peanuts on greens tossed in a nuoc cham-seasoned dressing. Poisson rubbed with achiote, and grilled tuna with minted vinaigrette and tomato chunks were excellent specials: rich, seafood-stuffed en chiladas were an old favorite. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive. -M. B. M.



SEAFOOD



D Revisits Bay Street. A recent visit to the Addison flagship of this small chain reminded us vividly just how much better seafood restaurants in Dallas have become in the last decade. A daily computer printout offers choices among five categories. We tried Mississippi catfish among the deep- fried, fresh lemon sole from Boston among the sautéed. fresh yellowfin tuna among the blackened, and Norwegian salmon among the char broiled. All were fine and flavorful. and could be ordered in smaller portions for prices that ranged from $8.95 to SI1.95. 5348 Belt Line, Addison. 934-8501. Moderate. -W.L.T.

D Revisits Sea Shells & Stuff. Hidden back from the road in a neighborhood filled with dining establishments, this small and unpretentious place has a surprisingly ambitious menu. Appetizers range from a gumbo that surprised us by including kernels of com to a fried Brie with crab and almonds that sounded better than it tasted. The ample-sized dinner salads or chunky slaw would have been sufficient beginners, anyhow. A blackboard lists a number of fresh fishes for grilling-we sampled both the mahi-mahi and the Mexican escolar and found both good if not blue-ribbon winners. A small steamed lobster was a bargain at $12.95. All these items were better than either the fried shrimp or the fried catfish, which came in strange-looking long finger shapes. 9205 Skillman. 348 3082. Moderate. -W.L.T.



STEAKS



D Revisits Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse. Ruth’s Chris always seems to be crowded, mostly with what appear to be businessmen. They must love the steaks and the service, both of which, despite the initial wait, were excellent. Slick with the beef and the French fries and you’ll be happy. My Caesar salad, however, was merely a bowl of greens lopped with anchovies; the touted peas (frozen) au gratin (industrial-strength cheese sauce) were mediocre. Onion rings were inch-thick slices further weighed down by heavy bread ing. and lyonnaise potatoes were chunks of sautéed potatoes and not-quite-cooked but partly blackened onions. However. beef is the issue, and both the filet and the strip were good cuts, accurately cooked, while French fries (available in your choice of cut) were golden, sweet, and crisp. 5922 Cedar Springs. 902 8080. Moderate. -M.B.M.



THAI



D Revisits New Slam. Perhaps the most elegant Thai restaurant in Dallas, this one is surely the hardest to find. Once inside, though, the place is plush and appealingly com fortable. And both the food and the service on our dinner visit made (he find worth the hunt. Our starter Tried chicken wings were flawlessly crisp, their skins bulging over an herbed stuffing of ground meat. Met grob lacked the puff bean curd omelette promised as topping on the menu, but the pile of skinny noodle crisps held much sweet-sour flavor, as well as generous amounts of shrimp, thin-si iced pork, and minced garlic. Tom ka gai, billed as a tangy chicken soup, was exactly that, lovely thin leaves of pale chicken meat with mushrooms and diced zucchini in light coconul milk. Gang mussamun, a curry of chicken with peanuts and potato, was your basic incendiary stew; we ordered it mild and found it deliciously barely bearable. 2415 Willowbrook, Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy. and Harry Hines). 358-5679. lnexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



VIETNAMESE



D Revisits Arc-en-Ciel. The menu is divided into three sections-regular Chinese, authentic Chinese dishes. and Vietnamese-and devotees of both unusual Chinese specialties and of Vietnamese food will find much to enjoy. The Vietnamese items include an appeal ing mini-banquet of seven courses of beef, which ranged from cherry-red slices to be cooked in hot vinegar to several sorts of homemade beef sausages. The lemon grass chicken, with lots of the sharp-lasting, rather fibrous herb, is head and shoulders above that served by most Vietnamese-only places. Among the “authentic” Chinese specialties, we are partial to the whole lobster baked with cheese and fried rice-noodles. 3555 W. Walnut Rd.. Garland. 272-2I88. inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.



MID CITIES

D Revisits Moretti’s. A more ambitious dinner did not quite live up to the lunchtime promise of this snazzy little place, but Moretti’s is still probably better than any Italian restaurant across from a trailer park has a right to be. The hearty, very personal service also makes Moretti’s an unex pected pleasure. The grassi (which means (at) appetizer combination juxtaposed tasty clams casino and stuffed mushrooms with fried calamari that had lost their baiter. A better starter would be either the delicious, buttery, nutmeg- scented broth with tortellini or the slightly sweet house salad. The best entree we discovered was the veal a la Goseppi, with mushrooms, Marsala, and a touch of mari nara in the sauce. Broiled salmon also tasted fresh and was cooked nicely. 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. 07) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.



PORT WORTH

D Revisits Le Chardonnay. The fare here makes its own fresh statement, in dishes that are creative without being intimidating. Many of the primed menu’s listings are designed to be heart-healthy; these are marked. Our last dinner’s starters were exemplary, a mellow torte of while, yellow, red, and green onions with shallots on a fine crust accented with tomato coulis; and eschabeche d’ete, a light pickle combining shrimp, scallops, and fish in a ceviche-like dish as summery as its name. A heart-healthy mixed grill of lamb, chicken, and beef tender came a little overcooked, but the green peppercorn and tomato basil sauces served with the meals canceled their slight dry ness. Coho salmon, a whole rosy baby, was perfectly grilled, if less perfectly boned, in fresh herb butter. 2443 forest Park Blvd.. Fort Worth. (817) 926-5622 Moderate to expensive. -B.C.

D Revisits Tuscany. On our last visit, the cooking seemed even better than we remembered. We split an order of fettuccine Adriatica (with baby shrimp in a rather thin sherry sauce), which was served before crisp house salads filled with very fresh romaine lettuce and garnished with garbanzos and pimento. Grilled garlic chicken turned out to be half a bird, well roasted and saturated with a garlic flavor, Even better was the beef and shrimp basilico-a kind of Italian surf and turf, with medallions of tender filet cooked very rare, and big, meaty shrimp, all in a garlic and wine sauce heavily flavored with fresh basil. Desserts, too. were memorable. The house special is a puffy cylinder of airy pastry filled with Bavarian cream and topped with fresh fruit and caramel saute. 4255 Camp Bowie, Fort Worth. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive. -W.L.T.



RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMENDS

AFGHAN

Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14849 In wood, Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.

BARBECUE

Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.

Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.

Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 148-5433. Inexpensive.

Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.

Bobo’s. 2014 Greenville Ave. 824-3165. Inexpensive.

Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.

Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Inexpensive.

Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.

Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market, Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood, 357-7120. Inexpensive.

Spring Creek B-B-Q. 270 N. Central Expwy.. Richardson. 669-0505. Inexpensive.

TNT Bar-B-Que. 2739 W. Northwest Hwy 352-6666. Inexpensive.

BRITISH

Messina’s Restaurant and Culinary Centre. 3521 Oak Grove at Lemmon Ave. 5284709. Moderate to expensive.

Lancashire Room. 127 E. Main St., Lancaster. 218-9215. Inexpensive to moderate.

BURGERS

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chip’s.4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.

Club Schmitz. 9661 Denton Dr. 902-7990. Inexpensive. 8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line. Addison. 960-2494. 1403 £ Campbell, Suite 101 Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnu Hill at Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive.

Sneakers Grille and Bar. 9247 Skillman. 343-1125 Inexpensive to moderate.

Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.

Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.



CAJUN

Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300 Inexpensive.

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Bell Line, Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce- 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Dodie’s Seafood Cafe, 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890 Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Rd., Piano. 423-0533. Inexpensive to moderate.

Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Rd., Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.



CHINESE



August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7277.2300 N. Central Expwy, Plano. 881-0071. Moderate.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500.Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Suite 80. Piano. 964-0406.Inexpensive.

Canton. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson.23S1863. Inexpensive.

Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy.. United ArtistsPlaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway, Addison. 387-1776.Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

First Chinese B-B-Q. Ill S. Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.

Hong Kong Royals. 221 W. Polk, Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line, Suite 200, Ad-dison. 991-6867. Moderate.

Snow Pea. 2007 Abrams Pkwy. (off Gaston). 824-4354. Inexpensive.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 128 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Rd. at Buckner. 321-7599. Inexpensive to moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.

Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut, Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.

Taton. 9243 Skillman, Suite 104. 343-0545. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tong’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tal’s. 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.



ETHIOPIAN



River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.

Chez Gherard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate.

Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane, Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.

Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple Ave. at Wolf. 871-2523. Expensive.

The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

Jonathan’s. The Centrum, 3102 Oak Lawn, Suite 444. 520-8308. Moderate.

La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. NonthPark Mall. 696-2398. Inexpensive.

L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.

Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

Watel’s, 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.

York St. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN

Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’I Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Rd. at Buckner. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross Ave. 821-3121. Inexpensive.

Old Munich. 9100 N. Central Expwy. at Park Lane, Suite 117. 369-7737. Moderate.

GREEK



Athens Cafe. 5290 Bc!l Line, Suite 118. Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.

Augustus. 15375 Addison. Rd., Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.

Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.

Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive



HOME COOKING



Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. lnexpensive to moderate.

Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.

Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.

Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Rd. 327-3663. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 600 934-8800. Lincoln Plaza, Second Floor, 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughters Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. 111 S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N. St. Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.

Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.



INDIAN



Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line, Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.

India Palace Restaurant. 128I7 Preston Rd. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry- 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Mumtaz. The Atrium, 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave., Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.

Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Shopping Center, Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. inexpensive.

Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.



ITALIAN

Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.

Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).

Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.

Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Ln., Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.

Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Moderate.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd, in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3304. Moderate.

Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824 9944. Moderate.

Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Tosca. 7713 lnwood. .152-8373. Expensive.

Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Ln. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 87I-0400. 1445 Ross Ave. in the NCNB Building. 855-6279. Inexpensive to moderate.

MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln. Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 37, Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.

MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6.176. Moderate.

Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.

Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln. (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.

Spaghetti Inn-Mike’s Italian Restaurant. 6465 E. Mockingbird, Suite 391. 827-7035. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.

JAPANESE

Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 In wood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza, 5000 Belt Line, Suite 600. 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Beit Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village. Suite 360, 3309 N. Central Expwy., Plano. 881-0328. Moderate.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Moderate.

Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate



KOREAN

Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut. Suite 200. 272-9909.Inexpensive.

Korea House. 2598 Royal Ln. at Harry Hines. 243-0434. Inexpensive.

Koreana. Highpoint Village, 12101 Greenville Ave., #107.437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.

The Korean Rib. 3205 Alma Drive. Suite 401, Plano. 423-8676.



MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.



MEXICAN

Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston, #319 328-9639. Inexpensive.

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. 8121 Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.

Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village (Inwood at Lovers Ln). 350-5227. Moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. and University, 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

Emmilla’s. 2001 Greenville Ave. 824-4562. Inexpensive to moderate.

Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main at Crowdus, 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate,

Garmo’s y Lito’s. 2847 N. Henderson. 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.

Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.

Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

J. Pepe’s Restaurant and Cantina. 2800 Routh St., Suite 115. 871-0366. inexpensive to moderate.

La Botica Cafe. 1900 N. Haskell 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.

Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia Ave. 827-1889. Inexpensive.

La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. Inexpensive.

Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston Rd., Suite 100. 691-1552. Moderate.

Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy. at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 318 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. 221 W. Parker, Suite 400, Plano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village). Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.

Pappasito’s Cantina. 723 S. Central Expwy., Richardson. 480-8595. Moderate.

Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.

Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ricardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lem-mon Ave. 520-6620, Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456. 2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. Inexpensive.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center. 15400 Coit, Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.

NATURAL

Bluebonnet Cafe & Dell. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle, Suite 170. 954-0486. Inexpensive.

Phil’s Cafe. 2815 Elm. 761-8400. Inexpensive.

NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle, The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. 855-0440- Expensive.

Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court in the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Expensive.

The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.

By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. B23-3300. Moderate to expensive.

Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington’s. Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Ln. (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive. Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.

Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.

Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive. The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.

Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

Spatz. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-7984. Moderate.

Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.



SEAFOOD

Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Montfort. Addison 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Cafe America. 4546 McKinney. 559-4441. Expensive.

Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm, Suite 600. Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.



Hampton’s. Berkshire Court. Preston Center, 8411 Preston. 739-3474. Moderate.



Hard Shell Cafe. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Moderate.



Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.



Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.



Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Inexpensive to moderate.



Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. at Pineland. 363-3896. Moderate.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy., Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.



Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.



SOUTHWESTERN

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.



Blue Mesa Grill. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy., Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.



Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.



Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.



Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.



SPANISH

Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.

STEAKS

Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre. Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

Brenner’s. 2200 Cedar Springs in the Crescent. 953-1600. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite

(off Walnut Hill, east of I-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.

The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.



TAKEOUT/DELI

Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301-A Oak Lawn (entrance

on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135. Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd. 980-1444. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Wiley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

City Market. 2001 Ross. Trammell Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.

Crescent Gourmet. 400Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Dell News. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.

Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St., Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.

Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive 10 moderate.

Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.



THAI



Bangkok Cafe. 2112 E. Arapaho at Jupiter. 644-9405. Inexpensive.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai Taste. 4501 Cole Ave. 521-3513. Inexpensive to moderate.

Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.



VIETNAMESE



Ba-Le. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. Inexpensive.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mai’s. 4812 Bryan. 826-9887. Inexpensive.

Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200. Inexpensive.

My Tho. 4413 W. Walnut. Suite 315, Garland. 494-3963. Inexpensive.

Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES



Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams. Arlington. Metro (817) 261-0488. Moderate to expensive.

Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 910. Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. Moderate.

China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur. Las Col-inas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspars. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Rd., Cop-pell. 393-5152. Moderate.

Hana Sho. (Japanese) 2938 N. Belt Line. Irving. 258-0250. Moderate.

Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington. (817) 261-6604. Moderate.

Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.



FORT WORTH



Kincaid’s Grocery. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.

Jon’s Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.

Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

La Maree. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838, Inexpensive.

Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive.

Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.

Seterry’s. (French) 4930 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 763-8787. Expensive.

Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.