DRINK OF THE MONTH
An informal poll recantly led us to this conclusion: people either love or hate Bloody Marys. There’s no middle ground, no minor fans, only staunch supporters. For all of you in the latter category we’ve found a winner. Prepared by David, a manager at Zanzibar, this Bloody Mary will bring tears to your eyes. His secret: start from scratch, no mixes allowed. (The rest of his formula, however, is a secret. But trust us. It works.)
THE BBQ BLUES
COOKIN For the last 30 years, 6’S”, 230-pound Christopher B “Stubbs” Stubblefield has been cooking up barbecue and blues all over Texas. Stubbs’s places-first in Lubbock, then in Austin-became well-known hangouts of musicians like Stevie Ray Vaughan, Robert Cray, The Fabulous Thunderbirds, Delbert McClinton, and Emmylou Harris who dropped in for Sunday Night Barbecue Blues Jams. He doesn’t expect his new Dallas establishment to be any different (Stubbs took over the late, great Greenville Ave. Country Club). Sunday nights will still be filled with musk served up by nationally known musicians and up-and-coming locals. And the barbecue? The sauce alone is so good it’s a well-kept secret. Only Stubbs, his partner, and his cook know what goes into it. -Sherri Gulczynski
Inside, Stubbs’s walls are lined with the history of his life-in photos- and the work of Texas folk artists share that space.
Cafe Matthew: A Mid-Cities Mecca
On The Road Here you are, enthroned at a table spread with pale peach linens, starched and elegant against pater peach walls. White-jacketed waiters murmur suave suggestions: this Washington state cabernet, that fresh grilled seafood, perhaps a floating island for dessert.. .Who’d have looked for such a place in North Richland Hills?
Everybody knows it’s a fast-food jungle out there in the Mid-Cities, but even jungles have their tree-house havens, and Cafe Matthew qualifies. Ensconced on the second floor over an oyster bar, this unlikely outpost would do credit to upscale Dallas, food-wise as well as in ambience. The cuisine’s creative Southwestern, with comforting Continental accents. You might start with satiny sea scallops, spiced and blackened, or crisp quesadillas filled with Texas cacciotta cheese and herbs. Caesar salad’s the classic it should be, bright with the scent of anchovy. Green and white tortellini, cheese-stuffed, take tenderly to their crowning crunch of pine nuts; a half-pound fillet is boldly sauced with peppercorn-spiked port cream sauce. And yes, the floating island is every bit as wonderful here as when you first tried it in France. Only this time, you needn’t fly from D/FW to enjoy it-drive five miles past the airport cutoff instead, take the Bedford-Euless exit from Highway 121, and you’ll see it to the right: “Cafe Matthew,” scrawled in white neon script head and shoulders above its shopping-center neighbors. That’s in price, by the way, as well as in class and concept. Call Metro (817) 577-3463 for reservations.
-Betty Cook
Food Anomalies
JUXTA POSITIONS Occasionally, you happen across a menu entry that doesn’t seem to fit. Whether it’s there because of a chefs whim or customer demand, it’s always fun to check out the surprises.
Chicken-fried steak at Rancho Martinez. This is everyone’s new favorite for Tex-Mex, but the Southern-style chicken-fried steak is an unexpected favorite on the menu. Matt Martinez makes it several ways-topped with traditional cream gravy or with chili, cheese, and onions-but the foundation is always pan-fried, crispy-crusted steak.
Apple pie at Cantina Laredo. As Mexican as apple pie? Well… it is served sizzling on a fajita skillet. And somehow, topped with a melting scoop of cinnamon ice cream, this pie hits the spot that flan, sopapillas, sherbet, or pralines miss.
Onion rings at Dakota’s. This classy New American grill turns out fried onion rings that rank with those at the best greasy spoons-tender sweet rings, fully four inches across, coated in crisp, light batter. There’s no altitude here, either-they’re served with a side dish of ketchup. Hamburger at On The Border. It’s a sad statement, but the best burger I know of comes from this Mexican restaurant: a thick, but not overwhelming patty, grilled till pink inside, crusty outside, on a perfectly toasted bun. -Mary Brown Malouf
CHEAP EATS
THE CLASSIC BLT
So ABC-basic that nobody needs to spell out its name anymore, the BLT is bridge between meals. While the formula’s too classic to counterfeit, presentation and price are allowed to vary as long as purveyors obey the main caveat: never, never skimp on the bacon. Some that don’t:
Mr. Charlie’s Burger Factory. New at Parry and Peak, on the fringe of the Fair Park area’s Bohemian neighborhood, this clean, bright green little place puts together a home-style version-the bacon’s thick-sliced and fried to order, tomato and lettuce are ripe and fresh. No frills, but the price is the lightest we found: $1.79.
Clover Restaurant. A monument to nostalgia on Continental Boulevard at Industrial. Whole wheat bread is a plus option here, and although fine-chopped iceberg lettuce creates a slight fall-out hazard, much crisp, lean bacon makes up for that small irritation. Garnished with two burger-dill chips: $2.79.
Wool worth’s Preston Center. Another tribute to old-time counter culture. Here you sit close enough to watch as your amiable, mom-like server stacks the right components un-” stintingly on toasted bread. This one comes with potato chips and a huge, kosher-style pickle quarter for $2.65.
Hard Rock Cafe. Okay, so at $6.25 a pop, this eat’s not as cheap as the others. But believe me, this is a BLT for two, bauilt on double-wide slices of home-toasted. The lettuce is leaf, a deep-green ruffled frill; the tomato’s red-ripe and fine; hot bacon is a high-piled extravagance. -Batty Cook
NEW RESTAURANTS
A French Experience Par Excellence
YORK ST. York St. has carved out its niche as the kind of small, neighborhood dining spot Dallas diners take instantly to their hearts.
And, in almost all ways, the affection’s deserved. In York St., owners Mike and Felissa Shaw (he once a chef at L’Ambiance, she a former St. Martin’s waitress) have created one of the most delightful new restaurants Dallas has seen in a long time.
The weekly evolving handwritten menu-mostly French, entirely fresh-lists a half-dozen appetizers, a soup, several salads, and nine or ten entrées. On our two visits, every offering we tried was worth unreserved applause. Oh, perhaps the Gorgonzola cream on an angel-hair pasta starter was oversalted and the pasta past al dente, but the fresh chanterelles crowding the sauce were toothsome enough to redeem the dish. And I found the flourless chocolate soufflé cake depressing!)1 dry despite its delectable pool of fresh raspberry sauce. But further flaws, if they existed, eluded me.
For starters, Italian sweet sausage struck a spicy balance with mild mozzarella and belt pepper strips. Panéed rabbit fanned tenderloin medallions in zesty Creole mustard sauce. Tomato with red bell pepper soup presented the essence of both vegetables, piquantly seasoned. A salad of watercress played bland chopped boiled egg against nippy Montrachet crumbles in a fine, creamy Dijon vinaigrette.
Entrees, for once, were not outshone by first courses. A brace of double lamb chops came off the grill robust and rosy-hearted, rich with roast pepper ribbons in thyme-scented, sherry demi-glace. Weiner schnitzel was wonderfully crisp-skinned leaves of veal, lightly cream-sauced. Braised pheasant breast slices were symphonically complemented by red grapes and minced shallots in cassis-influenced sweet butter. A steamed fillet of Norwegian salmon was fragrant with dill in its delicate champagne mousseline sauce.
Dessert-wise, only the cake was anticlimactic; others-a crème brulée crowned with fresh raspberries and a raspberry-blueberry tart of surpassing excellence-were exemplary.
So was the service, from warm French bread served often to flatware magically dispensed as needed. A thoughtful selection of wines available by the glass or bottle completed the pleasures of the place-compounded, too, by the ambience of clubby cordiality shared by staffers and happy diners.
6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Tue-Thur 6-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 6-11 p.m. MC, V, AE, Moderate to expensive. -Betty Cook
Tech-Mex Takes A Bow
EMMILIA’S Under soaring, black high-tech ceilings, white walls take on muted shadings of pastel pinks and aquas from the neon outside. Pink-clothed tables set with white serving plates and crystal float serenely on a black-and-white tiled floor. Light Fixtures are frosted Art Deco; music is muted. Servers are smartly attentive. The ambience all these elements create could hardly be more charming.
So what on earth possessed this pretty new place to open late last year as Emmilia’s Tex-Mex?
Whatever it was, the misnomer has been fixed. The Tex-Mex has been dropped, and Lowest Greenville’s newest restaurant-bar is now simply Emmilia’s. Which is as it should be. While some of the menu’s listings read like Tex-Mex standards, and all of the prices are Tex-Mex modest, much of the food is closer to Continental in execution.
Which is also as it should be. Caracas-bom owner Rossy (pronounced Rosie) Browne was reared in Spain; her mother, Emmilia, now lives in Venezuela. The cosmopolitan character of the restaurant’s cuisine and service are an honest legacy. And if the quality of both can be honed to eliminate the inconsistencies encountered in our two visits, Emmilia’s will be a windfall treasure for Dallas diners.
Complimentary chips-light, greaseless, and warm-were served with two dips, a lively red and a more subtle green, both fresh. Our starters were outstanding.
Queso flameado was a celebration of three cheeses, artfully flamed, folded, and wrapped in flour tortillas at tableside. Ceviche bathed firm snapper chunks in tomato-gentled lime juice. Quesaditlas were crisp-grilled, their molten cheese studded with fresh mushrooms. Black bean soup held whole beans in spicy broth under cheese and cilantro-topped croutons. Tortilla soup was almost as good, rich with vegetables and tortilla strips.
Two of our entrées-both specials of the evening-were flawless: a chicken breast lavished with Bordelaise sauce under a drizzle of molted Cheddar was delectable; seafood fajitas wrapped a mellow melange of scallops, shrimp, and fish bits, white-sauced in tender tortillas.
From the menu’s regular listing, chile relleno “Emmilia” was a perfect poblano stuffed with moist ground beef, diced potato, and raisins; the otherwise celestial dish was marred by a heavy mantle of what was supposed to be walnut sauce, but was actually a thick, cool blob of unseasoned cream gravy. Tacos campesinos involved two tortillas stuffed with rather firm, very dry, diced beef, unrelieved by the tomatillo sauce in which the beef was supposed to have been cooked. Carne asada was much nicer; although the grilled steak’s texture was more tenderized than tenderloin, its flavor was lively with pepper-spiced butter, and the bowl of drunken beans served with it would have outclassed most soups.
Apart from an occasional glitch in timing, service at Emm ilia’s was as suave and caring as one usually expects from much higher- priced places. Perhaps the disparities we found in some dishes will be corrected by the lime you read these words; meanwhile, the daily specials would seem to be your best bet here. Oh. yes, and the margaritas, which are fine indeed. 2001 Greenville Ave. 826-6087. Open daily. Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5 p.m.-2 a.m. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.
Warm Welcome- Lukewarm Menu
LANCASHIRE ROOM Mary Ann Brem has moved the operation of her restaurant, the Yorkshire Room, from the gentrified neighborhood of Oak Cliff to the quaint surroundings of the town square in Lancaster-and with the move comes a new name, also drawn from a county in Northern England.
The best things about the Lancashire Room are the ambience of a quiet country town and the warmth of the welcome. Would that the food here matched the atmosphere. English cooking has the reputation of being underspiced and boring. Perhaps to compensate, co-owner and chef Shawn Kounitz’s variations on English themes often use herbs like rosemary and other seasonings too liberally. The rounds of lamb loin, for instance, are rather overpowered by the herbal stuffing served over them. The Lancashire hot pot substitutes pork for mutton and omits the kidneys and oysters that traditionally embellish it, but the worst sin is the heavy dose of vinegar that robs the dish of any subtlety. The beef gravy that adorns several dishes shouts that it has been doctored up with some sort of bottled seasoning like beef extract or Worcestershire sauce.
Several dishes here actually sound more English than they are. The beef Wellington (topped with homemade liver paté and baked in puff pastry) is more a Continental than an English dish, and Brunswick stew obviously has Western-hemisphere origins, as you can tell from its ingredients such as butter beans, corn, and tomatoes.
For all the disappointment that the food at the Lancashire Room is hardly real English cooking, some care is taken in the kitchen. There are lovely little individual loaves of soft white bread, and entrees are accompanied by vegetables like thick slices of potatoes roasted with a crumb coating and halves of yellow squashes cooked to a nice underdoneness. Best of all are the desserts, like the lemon-blueberry queen of puddings, or the double chocolate cake soaked in rum and amaretto. The fresh pear tart was my favorite, a rich, caky bottom crowned with peel-on slices of delicately spiced fruit.
The food at the Lancashire Room isn’t outstanding enough to invite a trek from the northern side of the county for its own sake, but the dining experience is so pleasant that anybody in the area will enjoy exploring the unusual menu and the old-fashioned surroundings. 127 E Main St (Town Square), Lancaster. 218-9215. Mon 11 a.m.-3 p,m., Tuc-Sat 11 a.m-9 p.m; afternoon tea Tue-Sat 2:30-5 p.m. So credit cards. Personal checks accepted. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L. Taitte
Home Cooking Texas-Style
THE MAGNOLIA Magnolia bills itself as a “Texas bistro” a catchy tag that doesn’t bear very close examination. When you translate “bistro” into Texian, you have a sort of roadhouse atmosphere with home cooking. In the old L’Ancestral location, off Greenville, Magnolia’s decor is minimal-wood floors and tables, bare walls hung with notable newspaper headlines, and several shelves and windowsills filled with a fairly impressive bottle collection. The bar is separated from the dining room only by a planter box. There are lots of hard surfaces to bounce off the loud blues usually playing.
The menu covers the range of so-called “native” foods, beginning with nachos of various combinations and emphasizing steaks and smoked meats, but it also includes such anomalies as broiled shark and French onion soup. We tried a little from all categories and found the simpler efforts the most successful. Nachos, starting with both blue and yellow chips, combined whole frijoles and Jack cheese, garnished with peppers, onions, and sour cream. Onion soup was tasty, but lacked the deep taste achieved by slow-cooking the onions; it was really just sautéed onions in beef broth. Salads, a simple toss of iceberg lettuce topped with red onion rings and pepperoncini, are served with a choice of dressings, the best being a red vinaigrette with oregano. There are a number of entrees and appetizers of smoked pork tenderloin, which sounded intriguing. Unfortunately, on both our visits, Magnolia had “run out” by 7 p.m. The smoked beef tenderloin, however, was available, and was delicious-still rosy and tender, but with a delicate smoked flavor. The “Arkansas sandwich” was based on smoked brisket-a square of cornbread, topped with the meat and some sauce, and covered with black- eyed peas. The slices of presumably the same brisket, served on the barbecue plate with several ribs, were too chewy and fat to rank with the best barbecue; the hand-cut fries were good, but the cole slaw was just red cabbage in vinaigrette. 5631 Alta (off Greenville). 821-9114. Moo-Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. Moderate. -Mary Brown Malouf
Nate Cooks Cajun
NATE’S SEAFOOD AND STEAKHOUSE This place has been open for several months with little fanfare, which is a real oversight, because Nate’s is probably the best everyday Cajun restaurant we’ve had in the Dallas area (as opposed to Cafe Margaux, the best of the fancier type). Sampling widely from its large menu, we found no disappointments and lots of splendid eating, Louisiana style.
True Cajun food is more of an inland cuisine than the New Orleans Creole style, and centers around those landlocked “seafood” delicacies, crawfish and catfish. Nate (his hulking but personable presence a pleasant feature of the establishment that bears his name) knows how to fry a catfish along with the best of them, serving up a greaseless thin fillet with plenty of flavor and crunch. The other fried items include first-rate shrimp and French fries. The main way to eat crawfish here is stewed in an étouffée, which has a subtly sweet taste not marred by the harsh edge that some other establishments impart to the dish.
Nate’s also does well by seafood that actually comes from the sea, topping beautifully cooked and stuffed red snapper with some of the same étouffée in one of the daily specials. Another excellent treatment of the same fish is the snapper St. Charles, with a sauce of crab meat, mushrooms, and wine on top. A simpler dish is the sautéed crab meat, delicately flavored with sherry or brandy.
For once at a Louisiana-style restaurant, the variously named gumbos actually taste different from one another. The seafood gumbo is really the Lafayette style, the broth fairly thin in texture, colored and flavored with a dark brown roux. The Creole gumbo has been thickened with okra, which gives a subtly sour taste. Even the simple boiled shrimp is good at Nate’s, cooked to the proper firmness with plenty of seasonings and served with a great dipping sauce heavy on the horseradish. Desserts include a bread pudding topped with meringue and a variety of flavored cheesecakes. 14951 Midway Rd, Addison. 701-9622. Mon-Thur 11 a.m-10p.m., Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 p.m. Sun 5-9 p.m. All credit cards. Moderate. -W.L.T.
Italian With A French TWist
ZANELLA’S Jean-Paul and Monique Bit have been in the French restaurant business in Dallas for more than two decades, most recently at the unassuming bistro Jean-Paul on Royal Lane, now closed. It’s a surprise then, to see them launching a tiny Italian restaurant in a corner of Dallas not known for its restaurants. Zanella is, in fact, Madame Bit’s maiden name. But Zanella’s is a nice little restaurant when it keeps up its French heritage and a bit of a disaster when it tries to assume an Italian identity.
What’s nicest about Zanella’s is the matronly warmth imparted by the attentions of Mme. Bit and another charming European lady who shares waiting duties with her. They wisely push the French dishes, like snails in garlic butter, beautifully sautéed salmon, and veal scallopine Archiduc (with mushrooms, cream, and cognac). Of the Italian items, the veal parmigiana is quite good, which is more than we could say about the ravioli, grossly overseasoned with fennel seeds in the meat stuffing, or the linguini alla scampi, in which the long-suffering strands of pasta had been boiled past the point of no return. When it came to desserts, on our visit the kitchen hadn’t even bothered to keep up the pretense of being Italian, since the cold zabaglione wasn’t available. The chocolate mousse and the hot apple pie with brandy butter were sufficient compensation. 7730 Ferguson Rd. 321-0024. Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m.r Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 p.m. MC, V, AE. Moderate. -W.L.T.
D REVISITS
BARBECUE
D Revisits Big Al’s Smokehouse. This was our first visit in a long time to one of the branches of a small chain that has been a fixture on the barbecue scene in town for years. The biggest lesson we learned was to beware of eating barbecue in the evening-too many of the meats and vegetables tasted as if they had been held since lunchtime. This was especially sad in the case of the sliced beef and the big beef ribs, which both had a good flavor but a dried-out texture. The pork ribs, though, still showed that there is good eating to be had at Big Al’s-I don’t think there are better barbecued ribs in Dallas. Another asset here is the wide range of choices-rw) kinds of sausage (including spicy hot links) and lots of vegetables and salads. A nice touch for families is the soft-serve vanilla ice cream available as a complimentary dessert. 800 E Arapako, Richardson. 699-1521. Inexpensive. -WL.T.
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
D Revisits Le Brussels. Forget Dallas. You’re in Europe here, especially if you sit near the back of this narrow Snider Plaza restaurant. The staff language is French.
and it’s all you hear spoken at the rear service bar. which is the energy source of the establishment’s excellent food and wine service. Ah. but the food, they’ll have you know, is Belgian. On our visit we hardly cared: the dishes we tried would have earned applause in any language. Escargots Bourguignon arrived audibly sizzling, the snails bathed in a properly heady butter sauce with chopped seal lions and fresh garlic. Lobster bisque was a novel adventure, thinner than most in texture, but not in taste, its robust broth a dark mystery of subtle flavors. Entrees themselves were fine indeed-scampis Breughel (named for the artist whose work is reproduced on the menu cover) was crisp-tender shrimp sautéed with garlic, green onions, and sherry in light cream, then bedded on succulent rice. Croustade de Volatile was a lavish spread of chicken breast bites with fresh mushroom slices, cream-sauced, on and under airy squares of flawless puff pastry. Crêpes-Glacées Vanille et Chocolat Chaud were all the sin that their name implied. Service was amiable in the extreme-and. as far as I’m concerned, the European illusion could hardly have been more authentic without an airline reservation. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate. -B.C.
D Revisita The Riviera. Rarely does any dish fall short of wonderful in this sunny-spirited place-chefs David Holben and Lori Finkelman Holben are as sure-handed as they are adventurous. On our last visit, appetizers were stunning-triangular pasta dumplings succulently filled with fresh, woodsy Italian mushrooms and sausage in mushroom butter sauce on a bed of robust onion ribbons. A pancake- like gnocchi that held cacciotta and Romano cheese under a crown of ripe Roma tomatoes and mushrooms. Roasted tomato and oxtail soup was a hefty dish, the puree of tomatoes and vegetables super-hearty, the oxtail gone upscale via boning, mincing, and shaping into a sausage-like roll. A warm scallop salad with mixed greens and red onion in orange butter sauce was nothing short of superb. So was an oven-roasted rack of six lamb choplets. garlic-blessed and served with potatoes au gratin, acorn squash puree, and a crisp fan of sugar peas. Glazed Norwegian salmon was sliced almost too thin for substance, but the scallops paired with it were silken wonders, chive-strewn in a fragile cham pagne sauce. Wild rice, baby carrots, and tiny haricots verts played marvelous accompaniment. Service was, as always, superior: just like the stellar touches that keep The Riviera at the height of eminence among Dallas’; finest restaurants. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094- Very expensive. -B.C.
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN
D Revisits Bohemian Restaurant. The business card of this quaint-looking Czech restaurant bears the inscription “Doubek Family.” and it is easy to suppose that good Central European home cooking is just like this. The food at Bohemia never seems to be trying to impress you with its virtuosity, and the hearty things like bread dumplings and slightly soggy apple strudel are certainly far from nouvelle trendiness. Soups, including one with liver dumplings, have rich-tasting broths, and appetizers consist of protein-rich items like herring salad with apples. The slices of roast pork in a brown gravy are plenty satisfying, though we missed the crackly exterior of our favorite examples of .-’ this dish. Even better is the beef goulash in a more assertive sauce. Side dishes are such things as red cabbage and sauerkraut-hard to tell apart in taste when they have simmered so long. 2810 N Henderson, 826-6209. Moderaie. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Franki’s Li’i Europe. Exuberant. Ebullient. Infectious. These words perfectly describeFranki Kovacic’s restaurant, and, surprisingly, the crowd that frequents this Casa Linda establishment. Whether Northeast Dallas was hungry for this kind of ambience or this mix of Eastern European cuisines, the fact is that Franki’s Li’l Europe has become an entrenched area favorite in its two-year tenure. And indeed, we found the food as engaging as the mood of the place on our last visit. An appetizer of sarma, garlicky little cabbage rolls stuffed, with ricotta, chopped onion, and eggplant, were zesty with piquance; another of cevapcici-called the Yugoslavian national dish-proved to be an equally toothsome sampler of spicy sausage fingers, nicely grilled. Segediner. a Hungarian dish, was as fine as I remembered, fat-free pork chunks simmered with garlic, onions, and very mild sauerkraut in a paprikascented tomato cream sauce. Grilled veal liver was elegant under sauteed onions, with crisp, sweet cooked red cabbage and lemon-sauced broccoli plus roasted new potatoes on the side. Bread was warm, butter crocks were handy. Avia Yugoslavian Cabernet was most reasonably priced. And caramel flan was as perfect as we wished the apple strudel had been-its tartness was lovely, but its fragile crust was limp. Limpness was in evidence nowhere else, though- service was enthusiastic and people-watching was definite ly an adventure. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. Garland Road at Buckner. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C
HOME COOKING
D Revisits Bubba’s. As an ongoing institution, this preppy feeding station stands on firm ground. Neighborhoods like their institutions unchanging, and Lord knows, Bubba’s is certainly that-its fried chicken is always a little better than its fried catfish, which is always a lot better than its chicken-fried steak. Chicken fingers, though, are tender, moist strips of good breast meat in a nice crunchy coating, and catfish fillets properly commeal-dipped and succulent inside. On our last visit the mashed potatoes tasted fresh under a wash of country-style cream gravy, and green beans, though long-cooked as always, were well seasoned. Com on the cob was toothsome, too-surprisingly less overcooked than one would expect from a steam-table serving bar. Bubba’s high-rise rolls were vast, in themselves an adequate dessert with butter and honey from the pitcher that tops every table; peach cobbler was a more conventional happy ending, although hardly needed-Bubba’s servings are generous. Service here is counter-style, and friendly if a little pressured. 6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D Revisits Nick’s Cafe. Set back from the street in a Lowest Greenville strip whose most noticeable feature is a Vietnamese restaurant’s pretty canopy. Nick’s is easy to overlook. But this non-ethnic, non-trendy café while con ventional , is a cut above the commonplace. Its genre is that of the standard neighborhood breakfast-sandwich-plate- lunch eatery, accustomed to catering to patrons who call the evening meal supper, and generally eat it at home. Accord ingly, its noon bill of fare is dinner-substantial, with the usual down-home standards offered along with daily specials of the plate-lunch variety. We risked a ribeye steak from the printed menu, wondering what we could expect for under $5; what we got was a thin but substantial cut, cooked rare to order, along with hearty pinto beans, greens, and a perky little salad. The day’s blue plate special, stuffed cabbage. was as pleasant a surprise, the rolled cabbage leaves filled with a flavorful mix of ground beef with onion and season ings, served with mashed potatoes and fresh-tasting suc cotash on the side. Service was sunnily accommodating, booths were comfortable, and if you’re looking for a late- breakfest refuge, this one looks promising. 1733 Greenville Ave. 821-0561. Inexpensive. -B.C.
MEXICAN
D RevisitsTejas Cafe. This is still a nifty-looking res taurant; I like (he bright colors and the neo-Westem art. in cluding the rooftop cactus. And it’s fun to sit in the garden room and watch the trolley trundle up McKinney Avenue. In fact, it’s fun to watch the model trolley zip around the bar. But the food is pretty much standard-issue Tex-Mex; ] like the salsa (which seems to be the same recipe used at the old Tamale’s on Oak Lawn), and the cheese enchiladas were a satisfy ingly oozy, chili-rich version, but that’s as exciting as the food got on our visit. 2909 McKinney Are. 871-2050. Inexpensive to moderate. -M. B. M.
NEW AMERICAN
D Revisits The Mansion on Turtle Creek. The waiter, who could have passed for a young stockbroker, gave us extensive advice as we tried to decide between a couple of appetizers, then brought us the one we decided against. That was the only slip-up in a glorious evening of dining, and who could really complain about a dish as delicious as the Gulf oysters and lasso ham in a smoked com broth that also contained grilled onions and new potatoes, delicately flavored with thyme? We can never resist chef Dean Fear-ing’s complex miracles of salads when we come here (in truth, it’s getting harder and harder to tell them apart from the other starters, since so many items in both categories contain both fresh greens and cooked ingredients: these days the salads even tend to be pricier than the regular appetizers). The two salads we sampled were both spectacular: dried cherries and leeks set off a combination of molasses-roasted quail and mizuna greens, and stone crab and pico de gallo salad was accompanied by Texas lettuces in a toasled garlic and pumpkin seed vinaigrette and accompanied by a freshly made flour tortilla so you could make the best $15 taco you ever ate. Fearing is going in for lots of Asian in fluences these days, and a special of hot, honey-glazed swordfish and cold, rare, peppered tuna sided with cucum ber-papaya salad and ginger rice was a sublime interpreta tion of Japanese cooking. The pan-seared veal loin on pesto sauce served with ratatouille fettuccine took us all the way around the world to the Mediierranean-Fearing doesn’t miss a beat in plugging into the latest trend. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive. -W.LT.
D Revisits Actuelle. Actuelle’s quality remains consistently the highest. It was recently named one of Conde Nast Traveler’s Distinguished Restaurants ’”Worth the Trip”; D can smugly say “I told you so,” since we chose it last year as our best New American restaurant. The peak-roofed room, like a post-modem gazebo, is casually elegant, the service is professionally polished, and the food is superb. On our last visit we especially enjoyed an appetizer of prosciutto-wrapped prawns bathed in rosemary and garlic-flavored olive oil and sided with a slice of cacciotta-enriched polenta on a bed of mixed greens. Gin-cured salmon with an apple-potato-onion pancake was another inspired combination. Entrees were gorgeously arranged, topped with purple basil or garnished with dark curly greens, desserts beautiful and intense-our fevorite was the iemon-lime tart. 2800 Routh St in the Quadrangle. 855-0440. Expensive. -M.B.M.
SEAFOOD
D Revisits Newport’s. One of the reasons that Newport’s has been one of the few upscale restaurants to sur vive in downtown’s West End is that its food has. if anything, gotten better over the years. Both fish entrees on our most recent visit were exemplary. Silver salmon, marinated in soy sauce and red wine, look on a rich, dark color and flavor and hardly needed the Béarnaise sauce served on the side, it was so moist. Mahi-mahi received an interesting treaiment-it was reddened, rather than blackened, meaning that it was neither too spicy nor burned, but still had earthy, nouvelle- Cajun undertones; it was served with pasta turned in crab and red-pepper sauce. Soups (black bean with grilled red- fish) , salads (Caesar and hearts of palm with shrimp and marinated mushrooms), and appetizers (a whiz of a shrimp- and-scallop ceviche) all proved excellent, as well. In the dessert sweepstakes, a terrific pecan pie with brandy Chan- tilly sauce won out over a pleasant chocolate mousse flavored with mm. 703 McKirtney, in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive. -W.LT.
RESTAURANTS
D RECOMMENDS
BARBECUE
Anderson’s Barbecue House. 3410 Harry Hines Blvd (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.
Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.
Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston. Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak- 821-7062. Inexpensive.
Dickey’s Barbecue. 4610 N Central Expwy. 823-0240. Inexpensive.
Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.
Rlscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.
Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459 Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 In wood, 357-7120. Inexpensive.
Spring Creek B-B-Q. 270 N Central Expwy, Richardson. 669-0505. Inexpensive.
BRITISH
Jennivlne. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.
Jennlvine Culinary Centre. 3521 Oak Grove at Lemmon Ave. 5284709- Inexpensive.
BURGERS
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.
Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969.
Inexpensive.
Chips. 4501 N Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive. 8.0.2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5210 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line. Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E Campbell. Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive.
Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. Inexpensive.
CAJUN
Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. S21-13OO. Inexpensive.
Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.
Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N Central Expwy at Parker Rd Piano. 422-2469. Inexpensive to moderate.
CHINESE
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N Central Expwy. 881-0071. Moderate.
Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent. Suite 148. 571-6868. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W 15th. Suite 80. Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Belt Line between Addison and Midway Rds), Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W Polk, Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
Jasmine Uniquely Chinese. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200, Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.
May Dragon. 4848 Bell Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Plum Blossom. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Fwy. 748-1200. Expensive.
Snow Pea. 2007 Abrams Pkwy (off Gaston). 824-4354. Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. Inexpensive to moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.
Taton. 9243 Skillman. Suite 104. 343-0545. Inexpensive
Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.
Tone’s House. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tal’s Hunan Yuan. Galleria, 0350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370. 934-9998. Expensive.
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Brasserie Calluaud. 4544 McKinney Ave. 521-2277. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Royal. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 979-9000. Expensive to very expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200- Expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
Jonathan’s. The Centrum, 3102 Oak Lawn, Suite 444. 520-8308. Moderate.
Madeleine. 3072 W Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. Inexpensive.
L’Amblance. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.
Mr. Peppe. 5617 W Lovers Ln. 352-5976 Moderate to Expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN
Cafe Athertee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.
The Chimney. 9739 N Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Inexpensive.
GREEK
Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Suite 118, Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.
Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd, Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.
Crackers Restaurant. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-7268. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.
Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.
HOME COOKING
The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W Parker Rd, Suite 527. Piano. 424-2114, Inexpensive.
Brownie’s Restaurant. 5519 E Grand Ave. 824-2996. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.
Fox Hunt Pub A Grill. Manor House, 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.
Frank’s. 920 S Pearl Expwy. 747-1071. Inexpensive.
Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Rd. 327-3663. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8800. Lincoln Plaza, Second Floor. 500 N Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox 521 -2126. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughters Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Rosemaries 1411 N Zang. 946-1142. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. 111 S Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N St Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.
Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.
INDIAN
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260 Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 13360 Preston I 392-0I9O. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556 Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Mumtaz. The Atrium. 3101 N Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave, Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.
Safl’s Afghan Cuisine. 14848 Inwood, Addison 991-9292. Moderate.
Sitar. 9560 Skillman.
#104. 343-2063. Inexpensive Moderate.
Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Camth Plaza. 9100 N Centra! Expwy, Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.
ITALIAN
Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.
Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.
Antonucci’s. 3827 Lemmon Ave at Oak Lawn. 522-4056. Inexpensive.
Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).
Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest, Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.
Capriccio 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.
Chianti. 4820 Greenville Ave. 691-6769. Moderate.
Ciao. 3921-B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Inexpensive to moderate.
Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd. in the Hyatt Regency Hotel 741-3304. Moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.
H Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.
La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.
Lombardl’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mario’s. 135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Expensive.
Massimo da Mllano. 5519 W Lovers Ln. 351-1426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Homo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln, Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N Central Expwy. Suite 370, Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. inexpensive.
Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.
Patrizlo. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011.4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Rlstorante Savlno. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.
Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.
Spachetti Inn-Mike’s Italian Restaurant. 6465 E Mockingbird. 827-7035. Moderate
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
JAPANESE/KOREAN
Fujl-Ya. 13050 Coil. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 In wood. 991-8322. Moderate
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza, 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4860 Bell Line, Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.
Mr. Sushi & Hibachl. 9220 Skillman. 349-6338. Moderate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village, Suite 360. 3309 N Central Expwy. Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Moderate.
Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate.
MEDITERRANEAN
Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy. in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Blue Mesa Grill. Village on the Parkway- 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. Moderate.
Casa Domlnguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.
Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village llnwood at Lovers Ln). 350-5227. Moderate.
Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
Garmo’s y Lite’s. 2847 N Henderson. 82I-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
J. Pope’s. 2800 Routh St. Suite 115.871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Botica Cafe. 1900 N Haskell. 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Supreme Tortillerla. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. Inexpensive.
LomaLunaCafe. 4131 Lomo Alto.559-4011. Moderate.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721.221 W Parker. Suite 400. Plano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village), Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
1901 W Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s, 4322 Lemmon Ave. 5261020. Inexpensive.
On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.
Pappasltos. 723 S Central Expwy. 480-8595. Moderate.
Primo’i. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.
Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 7726 Ferguson Rd. 328-5797. Inexpensive to moderate.
Rlcardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.
Villa Margarita. 362 Promenade Center, Coit and Belt Line. Richardson. 235-5447. Moderate.
ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456. Inexpensive.
MIDDLE EASTERN
Hedary’s. Promenade Center. 15400 Coit. Suite 2500, Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.
NATURAL
Bluebonnet Cafe & Dell. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St in the Quadrangle. Suite 17ft 954-0486. Inexpensive.
NEW AMERICAN
Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.
Beau Nash. Hotel Crescent Court. 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney Ave. 871-3240. Expensive.
The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
City Cafe, 5757 W Lovers Ln. 351-2233. Moderate.
Dakota’s. 600 N Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. Westin Hotel. Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.
Kathleen’s Cafe and Bar. 4424 Lovers Ln (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Lakewood Plaza Grille. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.
Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.
Mallbu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn- 521-2233. Moderate.
Parigl. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
Pyramid Room. 1717 N Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St. Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.
Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.
Sam’s Cafe. l00 Crcscent Court. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive
Spatz. 2912 N Henderson. 827-7984. Moderate.
Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.
SEAFOOD
Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Momfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N Central Expwy at Chisholm, Suite 600. Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Berkshire Court, Preston Center. 8411 Preston. 739-3474. Moderate.
Hard Shell Cafe. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Moderate.
Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.
Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Inexpensive to moderate.
Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave at Pineland. 363-3896. Moderate.
Rusty Pelican. 14655 N Dallas Pkwy, Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.
SAD Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 830-0111.Inexpensive to moderate.
Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Cornet Shopping Center, 8041 Walnui Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
STEAKS
Arthur’s. 8350 N Central Expwy. Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.
Mike’s Del Frisco’s. 2200 Cedar Springs, Suite 165, at The Crescent. 720-4454. Expensive.
The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.
TAKEOUT/DELI
Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301-A Oak Lawn (entrance on Halt). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135. Inexpensive.
Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd. Suite 117. 980-1444. Inexpensive.
Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center. 979-2690. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Deli News. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502. 392-3354, Inexpensive.
The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.
Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St. Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.
Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.
Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
THAI
New Siam. 2415 Willowbrook. Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy and Hany Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.
VIETNAMESE
Ba Le. 4812 Bryan at Fitzhugh. 821-1880. Inexpensive.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200. Inexpensive.
Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Cacharel. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E Lamar. Suite 910, Arlington. Metro 1817) 640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. 5435 N MacArthur, Las Colinas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. 124 E Worth St. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.
Gaspar’s Cafe. 150 S Demon Tap Rd, Coppetl. 393-5152. Moderate.
Morattl’s. 2709 Mustang Drive, Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.
Via Real. 4020 N MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
FORT WORTH
Benlto’s. 1450 W Magnolia, (817) 332-8633. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.
Juanlta’s. 115 W Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.
La Maree. 3416 W Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Inexpensive.
Reflections. The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.
Saint Emillon. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours Restaurant. 3500 W Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.
Tuscany. 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.
NIGHTLIFE
Amnizia. 2829 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 632. 351-1262.
The Art Bar. 2803 Main St. 939-0077.
Arthur’s. Campbell Centre, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833.
Boiler Room. Pan of Dallas Alley in the West End Market Place. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.
Baja Beach Club. 1300 E Copeland Rd, Arlington.
(817) 261-2647.
Buyers Bar. Stouffer Hotel, 2222 Stemmons Frwy. 631-2222.
Borrowed Money. 9100 N Central Expwy at Park Ln. 361-9996.
Cadillac Jack’s. 5505 Belt Line. 701-9892.
Club A. 5201 Matilda at Lovers Ln (off Greenville Ave). 369-6977.
Club Clearvlew. 2806 Elm St. 939-0006
Club Dada. 2720 Elm St at Crowdus. 744-3232.
Club Mirage. 4908 Greenville Ave. 696-0394.
Cowboys. 7331 Gaston. 321-0115.
Dave’s Art Pawn Shop. 2544 Elm at Good Latimer. 748-7111.
Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill at Stemmons Frwy. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill (at N Central Expwy). 361-5553.
The Den. Stoneleigh Terrace Hotel, 2927 Maple. 571-711I.
Dick’s Last Resort. Corner of Record and Ross. 747-0001.
Electric Jungle. 2923 Elm. 528-3211.
Encounters. Doubletree Hotel, 8250 N Central Expwy. 6918700.
Froggy Bottoms. Part of Dallas Alley in the West Marketplace, 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.
Gator’s. 1714 N Market. 748-0243.
Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691
Harper’s. Hilton Inn, 5600 N Central Expwy. 823-9180.
Highland Park Yacht Club. 4515 Travis. 521-6071.
Iguana Mirage. 9330 N Central Expwy. 696-2582.
Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N Central Expwy (in The Comer Shopping Center). 750-5868. 4980 Belt Line at Quorum, Suite 250, Addison. 404-8503.
Joe Miller’s. 3531 McKinney Ave. 521-2261.
Kempi’s. 15201 Dallas Pkwy in the Grand Kernpinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000.
Knox Street Pub. 3230 Knox. 526-9476.
KU. 3232 McKinney Ave, Suite 131. 953-3040.
Late Night. . .In the West End. 1901 Laws St. 954-1901.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr. 851-2021.
The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151.
Louie’s. 1839 N Henderson. 826-0505.
The Lounge. 5460 W Lovers Ln. 350-7834.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek Bar. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121.
Memphis. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Bell Line, Suite 500. 386-9934.
Metronome. 703 McKinney. 720-1300.
Milo Butterfinger’s. 5645 Yak. 368-9212.
Mimi’s. 5111 Greenville Ave. 368-1994.
Mucky Duck. 3102 Welborn in the Centrum. 522-7200.
Netwerk. 5500 Greenville Ave. Suite 403. 361-9517.
The Outback Pub. 1701 N Market. 761-9355.
The Palm Bar. Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200.
Plaza Bar. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.
Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.
Prizm. 2600 Main St. 601-7777.
Randy’s. 15203 Knoll Trail. Addison, 907-2639.
The Safari Bar. 10821 Composite Dr. 351-3262.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140 855-2233.
Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.
State. 3611 Parry- 821-9246.
Stonelelgh P. 2926 Maple. 87]-2346.
Strictly Tabu. 4111 Lomo Alto. 528-5200.
Studebaker’s. NorthPark East, 8788 N Central Expwy. 696-2475.
Take Five. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace, 20i9 N Lamar. 988-0581.
Tijuana Yacht Club. 5111 Greenville Ave. 692-9855.
Top of the Dome. Hyatt Regency Hotel, 300 Reunion Blvd. 651-1234.
2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.
The Venue. 2727 Canton- 701-3502.
Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.
The Voodoo Bar. 302 N Market. 655-2627.
White Rock Yacht Club. 7324 Gaston, Suite 301. 328-3866.
Xcess. 2912 McKinney Ave. 754-0565.
FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE
Billy Bob’s Texas. 2520 Rodeo Plaza, Fort Worth Stockyards. (817)624-7117.
The Blue Bird. 5636 Wesley. (817) 732-6243.
Caravan of Dreams. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000.
The Hop. 2905 W Berry. (817) 923-7281.
The Kress Club. 604 Main. (817) 336-5737.
West Side Stories. 3900 Hwy 377. (817) 560-SODA.
The White Elephant Saloon. 106 E Exchange. (817) 624-8273.
