DRINK OF THE MONTH
The Dallas Brewing Co. Inc. is brewing up a storm in the West End, having just released two new beers: Texas Cowboy, a medium-bodied beer, end Texas Bluebonnet, a Iight-tasting premium beer. The microbrewery (the largest in the state) produces up to 1,000 cases a week, which should be just enough to last us through the long, hot summer. Available at a store near you. Give it a sip, out of civic pride.
PHILOSOPHER Of SOUL
Our town There’s something special about Clara’s Kitchen, and it’s not just the soul-pleasing aroma of Southern cooking that greets you at the door. It’s Clara Miles herself, whose customer-as-family philosophy is powerful enough to warm the Grand Avenue restaurant even when its owner isn’t in it. When Clara is there, which is often, she glad-hands a steady stream of the faithful who pause to pay their respects to her-and to her food. Pork chops like Mama’s. Golden-crusted cobbler. Chitlins, greens, yams. “We open our arms to everybody,” says Clara. “The way I see it, you passed a lot of restaurants to come here.” So Clara makes it worth your while-with a warm “good to see you today, baby,” and food that says “welcome home” the way haute cuisine never could.
-Renée J. Kientz
Clara’s melt-in-your mouth biscuits are a big draw for the all-night breakfast crowd. Her kitchen stays open round-the-clock Fridays and Saturdays. 3126 Grand Ave.
Dining Sans Air Conditioning
AL FRESCO ALERT Summer in the city is no excuse to stay indoors. Wait until dusk and then venture out for an al fresco dinner under the stars. A few favored spots are:
La Botica Cafe. Good music, good food, good margaritas, nice breeze; once the sun goes down, La Botica’s patio becomes a pleasant oasis in the concrete steam bath of an urban summer.
Cremona Bistro & Cafe. This is a wonderfully weird little Italian restaurant located at the other, less popular end of Routh Street. You can sit on their very-out-of-the-way patio and leave your cares behind. The food is simple, the people are real, the experience therapeutic.
Deep ElInm Cafe. The patio is a serene and secluded enclosure with just enough tables so private tete-a-tetes stay that way. Ceiling fans whir overhead-so even if the only breeze is faux, who cares? The clientele are an eclectic bunch-and the food’s pretty interesting too.
Dakota’s. This place is perennially classy, with a city sophistication that can’t be beat. Located in the midst of downtown, the entrance is literally below sea level. Once you’re in, you find the courtyard, one wall of which is entirely water, a welcomed sight (and sound) For a warm summer evening.
On The Road Hillsboro’s factory outlet mall has to be the new chic day-trip destination for shop-till-you-drop bargain hunters. Liz Claiborne, Nike, and Capezio arc among national names with high-fashion markdowns in wearables and home accessories in the spiffy complex spread beside [-35, a fast hour south of Dallas. If you haven’t made the trek yet, you will. And if you wonder where to find fast, fresh country cooking close by, let me tell you: head for The Turkey Shop, just a skip farther south at the turnoff to nearby Abbott. Long before turkey became prime fitness food- decades ago, in fact-The Turkey Shop built a solid business home-smoking and selling turkeys by the ton. From making a few sandwiches for hungry customers, the shop grew gradually to the full-scale restaurant/specialty foods shop/way station it is today. The emphasis is still on turkey-prepared just about every way you can imagine, from whole to hot dogs, sandwiches, and salads. But the cafeteria-style bounty shoots the works now, with a full salad bar, home-cooked vegetables, dressing and cornbread, cobblers and banana pudding, plus every country condiment you’ve ever heard of. Take home a few if you like-pickled okra, say-along with the smoked turkey breast or frozen giblets you won’t be able to resist. The Turkey Shop’s open from 8 to 8 daily. Take exit 358 and look for the building wearing the weathered ten-fool sign: TURKEY. You can’t miss it.
CHEAP EATS HOT DOGS
The hot dog has to be the Original Great American Cheap Eat. A summer basic in back yards, beaches, and ballparks, the hand-to-mouth favorite movie meal. Here is a handful of winners from some of the city’s more imaginative casual eateries:
Chip’s borrows from back East to build its Coney Island, a monster structure. Four or more franks laid out on a vast bun, lavished with meaty chili under melted Cheddar and chopped onions. Definitely not finger food. $3.85.
Hunky’s Hunky Dog comes closest to the classic with a big, plump wiener split and grilled, then anointed with yellow mustard and topped with chopped sweet onions. Chase it with a vanilla coke from this place’s nostalgic fountain bar. The dog’s $1.75, the drink 69 cents.
Prince of Hamburgers carves the frank into four still-connected slices, grills them to juicy crispness, then spreads them on a burger bun with mustard and dill pickle slices for a paltry $1.30.
Tolbert’s puts a Texas twist on the key Tails, a Frank Tolbert Sr. invention. The all-beef franks are split, filled with Cheddar, then wrapped in flour tortillas and deep-fried. You get a cup of chili included in the price. $3.50.
Sneaker’s This new sports bar boasts the most variations on the standard hot-dog theme. My choice from the creative menu: the Sneaker-kowski, a Polish sausage marinated in beer, char-grilled, and enshrined on a sourdough bun with sauerkraut and Swiss cheese for $3.95.
Café America: A Seafood Restaurant With An Eclectic Touch
Cafe America Keeping up with Dallas restaurant turnovers, name changes, and ownership transfers is as complicated as keeping up with the relationships on a soap opera. In fact, they may be even more convoluted.
So, for a brief history of Cafe America: Mel Hollen opened this restaurant in 1983 as a brass-trimmed seafood house (visually similar to the popular Cafe Pacific) called Atlantic Cafe. He sold it in 1986, then in January bought it back and renamed it Café America. However, don’t let the name change lead you to expect another New American grill of the sort sprouting up everywhere like mushrooms after the rain. If anything, there are fewer of those touches on this menu than there were previously.
Hollen’s Café America is still a seafood restaurant; I can only imagine the “America” part of the name indicates the extent of culinary eclecticism here-this Is a real melting-pot menu, including famous fish dishes from all over.
For instance, on our visits we sampled pristine yellowfin tuna sashimi, thick, dark slices served with ginger, soy sauce, and eye-popping wasabi, green Japanese horseradish, as well as ocean-fresh ceviche, firm shrimp, scallops, and fish marinated in lime juice and mixed with tomatoes and scallions. Crab cakes were fat and meaty, their remoulade sauce mouth’ and eye-watering. The San Francisco favorite, cioppino, was presented in a wide, deep bowl; the tomato and vegetable seafood stew held chunks of fish and shellfish and was topped with yawning clams. A special of mahi-mahi was perfectly cooked, as was the grilled swordfish. There was even a selection of deep-fried seafood-truly American food.
And though this is definitely a seafood restaurant, there is a selection of fowl, veal, and steaks. The thin sautéed scaloppine we tasted were tender and refreshed with lemon. With them we ordered the sautéed spinach offered as a side dish; just wilted and still bright green, it was some of the most flavorful I’ve had outside my own kitchen, but it was remarkably similar to the spinach wilted under bacon we’d had earlier in the meal as a salad.
Our favorite dessert was a conservative Key lime pie; the chocolate decadence cake was, unfortunately, too sweet, and the crème brulée had a mealy texture, but the sweet-tart slice of lime pie was enough to share, so no one was overly disappointed. 4546 McKinney. 559-4441. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Thur. 6-10:30 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 6-11 p.m., Sun. 5:30-10 p.m. AW credit cards. Expensive.
-Mary Brown Malouf
Brenner’s Debuts In Dallas
Brenner’s First there was Del Frisco’s on Lemmon, which evolved into Del Frisco’s Double Eagle, while its remarkably similar rival, Mike’s Del Frisco, held its own in the Crescent. A confusing situation for alt but the most diehard Dallas carnivores. Now Mike’s Del Frisco has been replaced by a well-respected Houston steak house called Brenner’s. However, Mike’s seriously comfortable interior has not changed a whit. The business here is beef, and there’s very little to distract you from it.
The menu is recited by your waitperson; thankfully, for those of us with short memories, the list is brief. When we visited, there was only one non-beef entree, a salmon fillet. We stuck with the steak, opting for the large filet and the strip. To precede, we tried an appetizer of onion rings that were delicious, and even better as a side to the steak.
Brenner’s sticks to traditional accompaniments. The large baked potato came with sour cream, seallions, and bacon; the slim, crisp stalks of asparagus with a hollandaise sauce were lacking somewhat in lemon. “German” potatoes, soft sautéed chunks, and French fries were other choices. All this, of course, is secondary to the prime objective-the beef. Both steaks we tried were inches thick, brown-crusted on the outside and bloody on the inside, as requested. The filet had a fullness of flavor that must have come from age; likewise, the strip, rich as butter, had an unusual tenderness. Noble pieces of meat, impossible to finish at one sitting. 2200 Cedar Springs in the Crescent. 953-1600. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Thur. 5-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 5-11 p.m. All credit cards. Expensive.
THAI NIPA More than most Dallas Thai restaurants, this new Oak Lawn eatery seems as tuned to Anglo as Asian tastes.
The food we tried ranged from merely pleasant to downright exhilarating. Appetizers were nice standards-cubes of fried bean curd, tender inside their greaseless, golden-fried skins; fried corn patties, also greaseless, were crunchy with fresh-tasting kernels and chopped scallions; soft rice pancakes stuffed with ground pork were delicately seasoned with white pepper.
A noodle salad starter made its own bright statement: yam woonsen played sweet cucumber slices against spicy minced chilies, mint, and cilantro to endow the dish’s main components-shrimp, shredded chicken, and a few bites of tender squid on a bed of glass noodles-with uncommon freshness.
First-visit entrées were Thai at its most delightful. Spicy mint leaves with pork was piquant indeed, heady with red chilies and garlic, garnished-as was every plate-with a heap of cool cabbage and carrot shreds. Shrimp panang paired the shrimp with meaty mushroom slices in peppery red curry sauce, symphonic in its restraint.
Our second dinner’s main dishes went to extremes: deep-fried Cornish game hen, a house special, seemed hardly Thai at all- the barely seasoned little bird had been deep-fried to total succulence, then hacked into finger food; it was delicious. Hor mok, on the other hand, was alien as well as intriguing. Described as ground fish steamed in coconut-curry sauce, wrapped in a banana leaf, it arrived as a compact loaf of boneless fish chunks, fragrant with ginger and fiery with red chili ribbons. I found it pleasant, if not addictive. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Fri. 5-10 p.m. AH credit cards, inexpensive. -Betty Cook
India Palace: Ambitious And Excellent
India Palace Dallas is ready for more ambitious Indian food, and at last, India Palace seems ready to give it to us. My last meal here was the best Indian food I’ve had in Dallas.
The menu here is more extensive than elsewhere, but the appetizers were all familiar offerings. We snacked on savory seekh kabab, ground lamb gently seasoned and wrapped around a skewer, cooked in the tandoor; chicken chat, a sweet, cool salad of chicken, potato, and cucumber chunks in a tamarind sauce, flavored with cumin; juicy tender chicken tikka (tandoor kebabs); and crunchy golden onion bhaji, deep-fried chickpea batter fritters.
This is a menu that invites explorationimpossible on one or two visits; we ate ourway through a cross section, savoringeverything. Lamb vindaloo, the darkGoanese curry, bathed fork-tender chunksof meat in the fiery, spicy sauce; murgmusallam gave another meaning to the wordspicy. The intricately flavored dish, a mix ofchicken breast, ground lamb, raisins, nuts,and rice in a velvety sauce, gave off theheady fragrance characteristic of muchIndian food, without any heat. Navrattenbiryani, a pilaf of nine vegetables, driedfruits, and nuts, was a similar layering offlavors. There are a number of seafooddishes we didn’t have the capacity to try,and nearly a dozen vegetarian preparations;we can only look forward to a return visit.12817 Preston Rd. (at LBJ). 392-0190. LunchMon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Sat. & Sun.noon-3 p.m.; dinner Sun.-Thur. 5:30-10p.m., Fri. & Sat. 5:30-11 p.m. Ail creditcards. Moderate. -M.B.M.
A MoMo’s Miscue?
osteria da momo This is the newest project by Dallas’s most fervent purveyor of authentic Italian cooking. And while the recipes are obviously authentic and unusual, they are not always executed very well. The tagliatelle tossed in a tomato bean sauce were overcooked and dry. The beef filet had been treated just as the menu promised: marinated in Barolo wine and stewed for several hours. But the dry, stringy texture of the beef proved this was not a smart way to cook a naturally tender, expensive cut of meat. The little rolls of stuffed pork loin were among the most successful things we tried, but the rotole (pinwheel-shaped slices of fresh pasta stuffed with spinach) were gritty and unappetizing. The most successful items were the house treatment of shrimp (sautéed with Marsala, cognac, garlic, parsley, and smoked salmon) and a risotto flavored with crab meat.
Osteria da MoMo’s authenticity also stretched to the appetizers-the same seafood salad that graces the menu at other MoMo’s locations, stewed mussels, a pepper salad, and a large selection of genuine Italian cured meats. Great care has been taken as well to offer an unusual selection of imported Italian cheeses. The interesting selection of Italian wines, several by the glass, does add to the appeal of the place.
On balance, the ambition of Osteria daMoMo is laudatory, but the food doesn’t liveup to the concept, especially at the prices. 2704 Elm Street. 748-4222. Lunch Mon.-Fri.11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Sun.-Thur, 6-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 6-11:30 p.m. MC, V, AE.Expensive. -W.L. Taitte
Burgers-Mammoth And Memorable
JON’S GRILLE You have to know a little Fort Worth lore to understand the risk Jon Meyerson is taking. Meyerson grew up with other local high school and college students for whom the definitive burger was served at a University Boulevard drive-in called Carlson’s. This burger was a mammoth indulgence involving bacon, cheese, and a wonderfully sloppy dressing.
Carlson’s succumbed years ago, but the burger has never been forgotten. Now, Meyerson boldly claims to have re-created it in his own restaurant, recently opened across from the TCU campus.
Has he? If memory serves, he has-theBacon Burger we sampled was a fresh, five-ounce beef patty, grilled to order, with threestrips of bacon, satisfyingly crisp, and twocheeses, plus lettuce, slathered so generouslywith creamy, French-style dressing that wehad to work to keep the combined juicesfrom dripping off our elbows. The dressing,made in-house, also graces a moistlymarinated grilled chicken breast in anothersandwich that rivals the burger for freshflavor. The grill’s Killer Club sandwich,aptly named, is a winner, too-ham, turkey,bacon, and Swiss and American cheesesdouble-stacked on toasted wheat bread withmayonnaise, lettuce, and tomato. 3009 South University. 923-1909. Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat. & Sun. 11:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D Revisits Club Schmitz. I have this memory, of lunch on an ordinary weekday at a place that’s just the waythings used to be before the health-passionate hard times. Icould swear we were served a soft hot pretzel as big as asaucer, with mustard to dip it in, and bracelet-sized sweetonion rings fried in a crisp, greaseless batter. That would bebefore the man-sized double burger, with its juicy twin beefpanics enshrined with all the requisites in a grill-crispedbun, and the crunchy, chicken-fried steak sandwich built thesame way, with sizzling French fries and a bowl of pintobeans. I also recall silting on a red vinyl chair and savoringsongs from a jukebox stocked with country classics, while[ ate every last bite of more food than 1 can usually bear tolook at and paid a check for two that didn’t come near knocking out a $20 bill. What has me worried is that I can’t findClub Schmitz in the telephone book, and neither can Directory Assistance, so is it really there? Lord knows 1 hope so-there’s hardly enough of this kind of Real Texas leftto go around any more. 9661 Denton Rd. 902-7990. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D Ravlsite Uncle Tai’s. For a long time, Uncle Tai’swas not only without equal in the quality of its food, therewas not even a close second. Now there are a number offirst-rank Chinese restaurants in Dallas, but this is still probably the best Chinese food you can get here. For me, the restaurant’s mail location has always been a drawback, but Idoubt it’s a deterrent to many. Anyway, once you’re inside,what mall? The frosted walls and carpeted floors muffle allimpressions you might receive of the shopping center. unlessyou decide to dine on the balcony, al faux fresco. For themost part, our meal was stellar, both food and service, thecrusty, slightly chewy, dry-cooked salmon and the UncleTai’s beef being standouts. The vegetable cake, a son ofrolled omelette with very few vegetables and less flavor, wasnot so winning. 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria.934-9998. Expensive. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Cafe Royal. Dining in this soft-lit room has always been a silken experience. Still is, albeit somewhat short of the near-perfection that marked previous visits. The menu, which changes daily, was a creative read on both my fixed-price (dinner: $38.50 for four courses; lunch: $12.75 for two courses) and my companion’s more expensive a la carte selections. The food largely lived up to expectations. although we both sensed a certain tendency toward corner-cutting here and there: the prix-fixe side’s choice of a second-course salad or sorbet, for instance, seemed to me inequitable-the two are not interchangeable. My starter of smoked quail breast was suitably zinged with crisp cubes of jicama and apple, plus walnuts, on a bed of fresh greens that would have been delectable if they had been property washed; ditto the salad, an elegant medley of lamb’s tongue, curly endive, lettuces, and radicchio, regrettably gritty and sharply dressed. My companion’s Caesar salad, rather than being individually prepared tableside as promised, was mixed near another table for two, then split three ways; it was, nonetheless, excellent. So were our entrées-mine, a flawless cut of broiled swordfish spiked with black pepper and pineapple vinaigrette, hers a small but succulent veal scallop on a pungent compote of garlic, shallots, and pine nuts in rosemary sauce. Desserts were delightful-a chocolate-frosted timbale of orange mousse, topped with zest threads in Grand Marnier sauce; a crème brulée of irreproachable smoothness under its sugar-shell crown. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N. Pearl. 953-1103. Very expensive. -B.C.
D Revisits Hofstetter’s. This tiny, bustling café-charming in looks but certainly unpretentious-doesn’t lead you to expect some of Dallas’s best cooking, but you are likely to find it here, and at surprisingly reasonable prices. Some of the food is vaguely New American in inspiration, like the crispy crab cakes with corn, served with dill remoulade sauce, or the superb wild-mushroom-stuffed pasta triangles in Roquefort sauce with spinach, or the pork tenderloin medallions in Dijonaise sauce. Other things you might call Nouvelle German, like the veal “cordon Brie,” stuffed with the French cheese and ham before being breaded and sautéed like a Wiener schnitzel. Other things are deliciously Old Country, like the Alsatian lentil soup. Seeing the elaborate-looking desserts on display in the case should give you the self-control necessary to leave room for them-they taste as good as they look. The best may be the Malakoff torte, made of ladyfingers soaked in coffee and rum between almond cream and sponge cake layers. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Capriccio. The food is consistently good here, even if it sometimes seems a little too safe. The appetizers, especially, seem a bit old-fashioned: the granchio Capriccio is a heavy casserole of crab meat and avocado, and the lumache fantasia is puff pastry filled with snails in a wine and cream sauce. The pasta dishes offer the most welcome touches of adventure on the menu. Capriccio’s version of linguini with clams comes in a light broth braced with the flavor of freshly chopped garlic, and the agnolotti-large, round ravioli-are some of the better stuffed pastas in town. Entrées return us to a heavier realm where the sauces lack focus-sweetbreads genovese seemed nicely sautéed, but were lost in all the ham and thickened Marsala. Large, beautifully cooked shrimp redeemed the bland veal in vitello con gamberi. Rum cake makes a fine-but again heavy-end to a meal here. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive. -W.L.T.
D Revisits The Korean Rib. This simple place in a Piano storefront offers what may be the best introduction to Korean food in the Metroplex. The menu is simplified to make ordering easier, and the proprietress and her staff, while mostly Asian, speak English well and make every attempt to be helpful. It helps, too. that the food is so good. As the name would lead you to expect, the emphas is here is on the delicious Korean barbecued meals, available in regular and spicy versions. Both the kalbi (beef short ribs)and the bulgogi (thin grilled beef) are excellent. The spicy pork ribs are even better, meaty and tender and just fiery enough. All are accompanied with homemade kirn chee, the incendiary Korean pickled cabbage, along with a modest assortment of other vegetables and rice. The Korean Rib also does other things well, like egg rolls, mondoo (the zesty Korean dumplings), and vegetable tempura. Those who don’t want red meat can choose teriyaki chicken, topped with a ring of pineapple. 3205 Alma Drive. Suite 401, Piano. 423-8676. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.
Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14848 In wood. Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.
Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.
Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.
Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.
Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston. Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive id moderate.
Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Inexpensive.
Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.
Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9IS9. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Marker Suite 104.742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.
Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 In wood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.
Spring Creek B-B-Q. 270 N. Central Expwy., Richardson. 669-0505. Inexpensive.
Stubbs Barbecue. 3619 Greenville Ave. 828-4035. Inexpensive.
TNT Bar-B-Que. 2739 W. Northwest Hwy. 352-6666. Inexpensive.
Jennlvlne. 3605 MoKinncy Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive
Messina’s Restaurant and Culinary Centre. 3521 Oak Grove ai Lemmon Ave. 528-4709. Inexpensive.
Lancashire Room. 127 E. Main St., Lancaster. 218-9215. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.
Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.
Chips. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.
8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5210 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line. Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E. Campbell. Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnui Hill at Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive.
Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway, Addison. 991-8811 Inexpensive.
Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.
Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive.
Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line, Addison. 960-6878 Moderate.
Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.
Dodle’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890. Inexpensive.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Rd., Piano. 422-2469. Inexpensive to moderate.
Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Rd., Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N. Central Expwy, Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.
Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs Rd. in the Crescent. 871-6868. Moderate.
Cafe Panda. 7979 lnwood Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th. Suite 80. Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Canton. 400 N. Greenville Ave., Suite 25, Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.
Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Bell Line be-tween Addison and Midway Rds.), Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
First Chinese B-B-Q. 111 S. Greenville Ave., Richard-sun. 680-8216. Inexpensive.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Plum Blossom. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 761-7403. Expensive.
Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line, Suite 200, Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.
Snow Pea. 2007 Abrams Pkwy. (off Gaston). 834-4354. Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 128 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Rd. at Buckner. 321-7599. Inexpensive to moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.
Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut, Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.
Taton. 9243 Skillman. Suite 104, 343-0545. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.
long’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.
Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 322-6865, Moderate.
Ewald’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple Ave. at Wolf. 871-2523. Expensive.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Corn-era:. 742-8200. Expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
Jonathan’s. The Centrum. 3102 Oak Lawn. Suite 444. 520-8308. Moderate.
La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. NorthPark Mall. 696-2398. Inexpensive.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
L’Ambiance. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.
Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.
Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.
Mr. Peppe. 5617 W. Lovers Ln. 352-5976. Moderate to expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.
The Riviera. 7709 lnwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.
York St. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.
Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.
The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’l Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Rd. at Buckner. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza, 363-2231. 3121 Ross Ave. 821-3121. Inexpensive.
Old Munich. 9100 N. Central Expwy. at Park Lane. Suite117. 369-7737. Moderate.
Athens Cafe. 5290 Beit Line. Suite 118, Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.
Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd., Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.
Crackers Restaurant. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-7268.Inexpensive to moderate.
Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.
Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate
The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W. Parker Rd., Suite 527, Plano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.
Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.
Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287, Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Rd. 327-3663. 5100 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8800. Lincoln Plaza. Second Floor. 500 N. Akard. 740-2400 Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughters Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Rosemarie’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. 111 S. Hall, 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center, 350 N. St. Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N. Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.
Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line, Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 13360 Preston Rd. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Mumtaz. The Atrium. 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave. Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.
Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Shopping Center. Central at Belt Line, Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.
Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.
Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.
Alesslo’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.
Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777 Inexpensive to moderate.
Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave, 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).
Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Ln., Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.
Chianti. 4820 Greenville Ave. 691-6769. Moderate.
Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd, in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3304. Moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave, 824-9944. Moderate.
II Sorrento. 8616 Turtlc Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.
La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.
Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate
Massimo da Milano. 5519 W Lovers Ln. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 1445 Ross Ave. 855-6279. Inexpensive to moderate.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln, Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 370, Plano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.
Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.
Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924, Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln. (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.
Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.
Spaghetti Inn-Mike’s Italian Restaurant. 6465 E. Mockingbird. 827-7035. Moderate.
311 Lombardl’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W Northwest Hwy., Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600. 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village, Suite 360. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Moderate.
Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate.
Korea Hometown. 10560 Walnut, Suite 200. 272-9909. Inexpensive.
Korea House. 2598 Royal Ln. at Harry Hines. 243-0434. Inexpensive.
Koreana. Highpoint Village. 12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.
Adelme’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy., in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
Anlta’a Cafe & Cantina. 7324 Gaston. #319. 328-9639 Inexpensive.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. Moderate.
Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.
Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village (Inwood at Lovers Ln). 350-5227. Moderate.
Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. at University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
Don Enrique’s Mexican Cuisine. 3010 N. Henderson- 828-2014. Inexpensive to moderate.
Emmilia’s. 2001 Greenville Ave. 826-6087. Inexpensive to moderate.
Garmo’s y Lite’s. 2847 N. Henderson. 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
Grandpa Tony’s. 3130 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
J. Pepe’s. 2800 Routh St., Suite 115. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Botica Cafe. 1900 N. Haskell. 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.
Las Cazuelas. 4933 Columbia Ave. 827-1889. Inexpensive.
La Supreme Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. Inexpensive.
Lome Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston Rd., Suite 100. 691-1552. Moderate.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy. at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village), Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
Mercado Juarez. 1901 W. Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Bell Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.
Pappasltos. 723 S. Central Expwy., Richardson. 480-8595. Moderate.
Primo’s. 3309 McKinncy Ave, 520-3303. Inexpensive.
Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 7726
Ferguson Rd. 328-5797. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ricardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900.4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.
ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456, 2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit, Suite 2500, Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.
Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle, Suite 170. 954-0486. Inexpensive.
Phil’s Cafe. 2815 Elm. 761-8400. Inexpensive.
Actuelle. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.
The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
City Cafe. 5757 W. Lovers Ln. 351-2233. Moderate.
Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep EllumCafe. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.
Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Ln. (between the Toll way and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.
Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 5224453. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.
Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.
Parigl. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
Pyramid Room. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.
Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-716!. Very expensive.
Spatz. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-7984. Moderate.
Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.
Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Montfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm, Suite 600. Plano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Berkshire Court. Preston Center. 8411 Preston. 739-3474. Moderate.
Hard Shell Cafe. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Moderate.
Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910.Inexpensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Inexpensive to moderate.
Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. at Pineland. 363-3896. Moderate.
Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy., Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111.Inexpensive to moderate.
Scott’s-A Seafood House, 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.
Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.
Blue Mesa Grill. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Lineat Dallas Pkwy., Suite 500. Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. 855-2231 Moderate toexpensive.
Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.
Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.
Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of I-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.
The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.
Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301-A Oak Lawn (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135. Inexpensive.
Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd., Suite 117. 980-1444. Inexpensive.
Bagelstein’s. North wood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammel] Crow Center. Suite 200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Dell News. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.
The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.
Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St., Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.
Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s Frash Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Muntfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bangkok Cafe. 2112 E. Arapaho at Jupiter. 644-9405. Inexpensive.
New Slam. 2415 Willwbrook, Suite 108 (at NorthwestHwy. and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Taste. 4501 Cole Ave. 521-3513. Inexpensive tomoderate.
Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensiveto moderate.
Ba Le. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. Inexpensive.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mai’s. 4812 Bryan. 826-9887. Inexpensive.
Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200. Inexpensive.
My Tho. 4413 W. Walnut, Suite 315. Garland. 494-3963.Inexpensive.
Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two, 2221 E. Lunar,Suite 910, Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur, Las Colinas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.
Gaspar’s Cafe. (New American) 150 S. Demon Tap Rd., Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.
Hana Sho. (Japanese) 2938 N. Bell Line, Irving. 258-0250. Moderate.
Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza, Arlington. (817) 261-6604. Moderate.
Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450 W. Magnolia. (817)332-8633. Inexpensive.
Chas. Kincaid Grovery Co. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.
Juanita’s. (Mexican) 115 W. Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.
La Maree. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Inexpensive.
Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817) 625-4413. Inexpensive.
Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.
Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.
Tuscany. (Italian) 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.