RESTAURANTS & BARS

DRINK OF THE MONTH

For those post-bash, “boy, is my head killing me” blues, Phil’s Cafe (2815 Elm St.) has two sure-fire cures. The Papaya Smoothie ($2.25) takes the edge off with papaya and apple juice, banana, honey, lemon, vanilla, and, of course, vitamin C. But if your funk is more serious, ask for the Hangover Cure ($1.25)-a glass of water, a packet of Emergan-C (a vitamin-packed, natural, Alka Seltzer-type powder), and four Willow-tabs (natural aspirin).

THIS BISTRO AWAITS

AMBIENCE The real definition of a bistro is “a small, unpretentious, European wine shop or restaurant.” To that we add ’’that feels warm, cozy, and slightly bohemian with a clientele frequently dressed in black.” While Dallas is relatively short on bistros, one perennial seems to fill the bill-The Grape. Wandering down Lower Greenville you’ll find yourself lured into its snug, inviting little space. Once inside, you may just stay there, sipping wine and talking the rest of the evening-The Grape’s bar is one of the rare places perfect for those two simple pleasures. There haven’t been many changes over the years. Any redecorating that has been done looks so right that the additions are almost imperceptible, like they’ve always been there, welcoming you with familiarity. -Mary Brown Malouf



Bar Art: The Good, The Bad, & The Lively

ART IN ODD PLACES These days you can’t even pour a decent strawberry daiquiri unless you first hire a curator and set up regular exhibits. It’s the art bar phenomenon, and it’s everywhere.

A brier history of Dallas art bars should start with the late, lamented Theatre Gallery, a Deep Ellum hangou that for all-too-brief a season brought together punk music and punk paintings. Suddenly, art was blossoming on the walls of a number of places, from McKinney Avenue barbecue joints to the haute and the haughty.

The Art Bar. 2803 Main, offers regular exhibits by “name” artists such as Frank X. Tolbert, David Bates, and others. Deep Ellum Cafe, at 2706 Elm, favors big, colorful, but somewhat more cautious works to enliven its narrow confines. Dave’s Art Pawn Shop, at 2544 Elm, hangs an eclectic mix of the good, the bad, and the lively that goes with the odd mix of people, conversation, and music.



Outside Deep Ellum, Primo’s Bar and Grill, 3309 McKinney, even includes a price list with your menu. Most bars, in fact, will cheerfully sell the art right off the wall. “We’re taking art to the people,” says Karen Bella, a singer and art consultant who picks the shows for Primo’s, Terilli’s on Lower (2815) Greenville, and Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria on Lowest (1520) Greenville.

It’s an idea whose time has come… getting art out of the galleries and museums and into the real world where real people will see it…even if it is through the bottom of a cocktail glass. -Ken Barrow

A Waxahachie Wonder

ON THE ROAD Ginger House would be a major restaurant in Dallas, where co-proprietors Darryl Beeson and Roberta Rhodes-Beeson spent a decade before opening this quaint but not cutesy 90-seat eatery in Waxahachie. The couple’s expertise is evident: though the dinner menu is small, everything on it is fresh and from-scratch, right down to the perfect warm breads. Soups were a suave shrimp chowder and a lusty three-bean. Baked tuna was a moist fillet cut, divinely sauced with cilantro-spiked lemon butter; a chicken breast was sauceless, delicately seasoned with Fresh local herbs that also graced the rice, carrot coins, and snow peas. Our desserts, a wedding-style Italian cream cake and crunchy-topped chocolate chip pecan pie, were exemplary. And if all that doesn’t get your attention, this will: all the above courses are included in entree prices, none more than S7.95, unless you order the Southwestern mixed grill of sirloin, Kolbase sausage, and boned quail for three dollars more. Do call ahead for reservations, and, since Waxahachie’s dry, you’ll want to bring your own wine. Ginger House is across from the courthouse at 200 S. Rogers. (214) 937-FOOD. -Betty Cook



CHEAP EATS



BREAKFAST REPASTS

Fed up with powerbreakfasts and ban-quet-sized brunches? Looking for a nice, slow-paced place to start your day, far from the madding crowd? Our selection of favorite breakfast spots runs the gamut from Tex-Mex to calm havens where you can spend hours nursing your coffee, idling away the morning until it’s what!, lunch already?

Barbec’s. Themomma of them all for breakfast lovers, this Garland Rd. (8949) mainstay whips up inco parable beer biscuits plus all the beloved friendly style.

Brink’s Coffee Shop. Norman Briner’s first eatery, at 4505 Gaston Avenue, tops a crisp fry of corned-beef hash with a poached-to-order egg. The combination’s unbeatable, the service is motherly, the coffee cup never stands empty.

Dream Cafe (2800 Routh St.). Sunda are madly crowd here, but weekday mornings offer more soothing solace, along with fruit-fill pancakes that live to a laggard breakfast-lover’s sweetest fantasy.

Guadalajara- This mainstream Tex-Mex mainstay at 4405 Ross Ave. has lost some of its old midnight magic, but its anytime menu of breakfast dishes is a spicy eye-opener, and if menudo is on the day’s menu, it’s a classic with clout.

Dan’s Lakewood Cafe. Trail in here at noon with your eyes half-open, and nobody will look at you funny This ex-drive-in on lowest Abrams (2711) has laissez faire down pat, and while the ambience is more funky than fashioa-ble, breakfasts are a nostalgic’s homecoming trip. -Betty Cook

NEW RESTAURANTS



New American Done The Old-Fashioned Way

Zeke’s Grill There seems to be a trend in New American eateries toward simplicity (and lower costs), so that most places opening these days are really closer to the old-fashioned bar and grill than to the tony joints with the nouvelle pretentions that used to define the category.

The starters are the only things at Zeke’s that give away its chichi, nouvelle heritage. The black bean ravioli, served in a tomato sauce, and the potato fritters spiced with onion and red peppers could grace far more elaborate menus. Gyros-two pieces of pita bread filled with grilled lamb, red onions, and lemon yogurt-were even better. The mozzarella bread-slices of herb-scented baguette topped with sun-dried tomato and melted cheese-was comfort food with a bit of pizazz, and among the appetizers we tried, only the grilled Cajun shrimp weren’t a knockout.

Of course, a grill has to have a bountiful selection of sandwiches, and here too Zeke’s offerings are grill food at its best. The Zeke’s burger comes with grilled onions, pickles, lettuce, tomato, mayo, and mustard on a toasted kaiser or onion roll. The marinated grilled chicken sandwich and the chicken fajitas were also good sandwich choices.

Nothing could be simpler than the entrees here. There are three kinds of steaks, and you cant do better at these prices any place in town than the 12-ounce New York cut ($11.95), more tender and precisely cooked than at the big steak chains and half to two-thirds the price. If I wanted an everyday steak, not too pricey and not so cholesterol-laden as those at the prime houses, this is where I would come for it. There are also two chicken choices (we opted for barbecued rather than teriyaki, and were neither dauntingly displeased nor particularly impressed) and a special of the day. We ordered that when it was a grilled swordfish steak, and found it perfectly simple and perfectly executed. All the entrees come with a choice of homemade French fries, spicy cole slaw, baked beans, or mustard potato salad, in addition to the vegetable of the day.

True to form, Zeke’s desserts are simple, hearty, and satisfying. The vanilla ice cream can be ordered with a topping of dark, thick, hot fudge. There is always some kind of cheesecake- the praline was fine-and a dessert special, cream cheese brownies, was a crowd pleaser. Zeke’s Grill seems to be living proof that the newest New American cooking is nothing more than Old American cooking executed with knowledge and care. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Mon-Wed 11 a.m.10 p.m., Thur-Sat 11 a.m,-2 a.m, closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L. Taitte

By George! It’s By Good!



by George! The look of this Lower Greenville space has grown more sophisticated since it housed Caulfield’s, the burger spot.

The food has become more sophisticated, too, although you can still get a good hamburger (accompanied by swell homemade waffle fries) and other sandwiches (a turkey club, a fajita Philly) or an elaborate salad (Southwest, with black bean chili, greens, Asiago cheese, sour cream, and chips; or grilled chicken). A number of the appetizers can also double as munchies. The tasty quesadillas are flour tortillas folded around Monterey Jack cheese, bacon, spinach, and sautéed mushrooms, and the large crab claws are sautéed in a garlic butter that includes a dose of fresh cilantro. Perhaps the best of the munchies are the tapntias-nacho-like triangles of wheat tortillas topped with cheese, salsa, peppers, and your choice of other pizza-like ingredients.

Soups are substantial, too. The baked potato soup is what you might guess from the name-a hearty potato potion topped with chives, bacon, and cheese. The clam chowder, a soup du jour, had a rich, briny flavor in a floury base. If you are ordering an entree, you may wish to forgo all these heavy starters, since complimentary, freshly cooked plantain chips are served with salsa when you sit down.

The main dishes range from Jon’s black bean chili to a pepper steak, a rather chewy New York strip whose flavor is almost completely masked by the heat of the cracked peppercorns. Barbecue shrimp are a reasonable approximation of the New Orleans original, served in hollowed-out French bread with a spicy rosemary butter sauce. Chicken George is a sautéed, pounded breast topped with mushrooms and tomatoes {the sourness of the tomatoes is the keynote).

The beautiful cakes on display at the entrance are made privately for By George!, and they are as good as they look. Both the chocolate and the carrot varieties turned out to be equally light and rich and moist. 2900 Greenville Are. 821-1538. Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun I0 a.m.-2 a.m. All credit cards. Moderate. -W.L.T.

A Pub With A View

FOXHUNT PUB & GRILL With a name like this, you’d expect British fare, but with meat loaf and chicken-fried steak on the menu, you might even think home cooking, right? Almost. The “Fox Hunt” part of the title is borne out only in the decor, which features fox hunt prints on the walls and fox hunt place mats on closely spaced tables. The home-cooking designation is closer to the truth, although the rest of the food draws freely from regional American and Continental sources.

The food here is a comfortable amalgam of dishes familiar enough to be homey, interpreted freshly enough to offer new appeal. The chicken-fried steak, for instance, is filet mignon, butter-fried and topped with mushroom-laden, real-cream gravy. And the moist, light-textured meat loaf was a rewarding special on one of our two dinner visits.

On the other, shrimp scampi were richly buttery in a garlic-laced sauce with white wine, good but almost outdone by a Maryland crabcake delectably sauced with cayenne-heated lime. Lamb chops on this visit were adequate but not outstanding: too thin to be properly browned without overcooking their center beyond the requested rareness. Their quality was prime, however.

Otherwise, we had no complaints. A starter of smoked Cajun boudin, in fact, was the best I’ve ever tasted, a mellow and juicy mix of rice and spiced meat. Escargots were succulent, too, in garlic butter sauce that suffused the bread slice beneath them. Desserts, like everything else here, were made from scratch; fresh peaches, stewed in cinnamon-butter-rum sauce and served over vanilla ice cream, look the prize, although a raspberry trifle, fine-textured cake layered with fresh berries, came in a close second.

With full-dinner prices ranging downward from $14.95, Foxhunt Pub & Grill is a brave attempt to bring upscale home cooking to the after-dark downtown scene. Diners don’t have to be brave, though, to try the place: the restaurant validates evening parking in the Manor House garage. The place serves nicely varied lunches, too: it would be a pity if Dallasites in search of cozy new spots left this one to the urban lunch crowd and Manor House residents; after all, where else can you dine with a glass-walled view of a sky-high swimming pool with downtown Dallas as its backdrop? Manor House, 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Lunch Mon- Fri 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Mon-Thur 5-9 p.m., Fri & Sat 5-10 p.m.; brunch Sun 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. MC, V. Inexpensive to moderate. -Betty Cook



Bubba’s: Good Ol’ Bar-B-Q

BUBBA’S TEXAS BAR-B-Q A reader gave us a tip about this place, and while the food had its ups and downs, the friendly welcome of the proprietor does give it a certain charm. “Bubba” is Leonard Adkins, who worked in catering for 20 years at the Marriott Market Center. His new venture in East Dallas offers barbecue and some extras. The beef and ribs have a uniquely smoky taste, reminiscent of the Chinese camphor-smoked duck. The sauce, too, has hints of vaguely medicinal overtones. The flavors are richer than those found in most Dallas barbecue, but their singularity can be off-putting. The accompaniments include hand-cut French fries and a coarsely chopped cole slaw heavy on the mayonnaise.

Bubba’s also turns out an average chicken-fried steak, and it purports to serve ribeye steak, fried chicken, and (on Fridays) shrimp gumbo. Unfortunately, when we visited, these latter items were unavailable, as were the potato salad and the stuffed baked potato. The salad bar was barren, too. (This was an evening visit, and we suspect that Bubba’s has more business at noon, since it is in a commercial area.) What is always available, though, is a full- service bar-there aren’t many barbecue places where you can buy a mixed drink. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-10 p.m., closed Sun. MC, V. Inexpensive. -W.L.T.

Retro Dining In Deep Ellum



Another Roadside Attraction This place reminds me of those little, offbeat Sixties eateries that seemed to be convinced they filled a need, not a niche. The shiny little trailer with the long name parked on Elm between Crowdus and Good-Latimer is definitely retro in these respects.

The Food here is all basically to go, whether you eat it at the picnic- tables or take it home. We placed our order at the window, asking for “Jennifer’s Cheese Sensation,” advertised as mozzarella, pesto, and tomato served on white bread, a special of the day, barbecue on Texas toast, a corny dog. some later tots, and “Mary’s Chicken Quesadilla.” “Umm, we don’t have the Cheese Sensation today,” came the reply a minute later. “I got to work late.” Disappointing, but still more so was the selection of drinks, which turned out to be Sprite or nothing. Our Food was ready a minute or two later; it came wrapped in paper, the sandwiches anchored by toothpicks with a piece of bubble gum impaled as a garnish on each one. It was all good-especially the quesadillas, which had big slices of sautéed carrot, garlic, squash, and broccoli, as well as runny jack cheese and chicken sandwiched between the crisp flour tortillas. On our second visit, it was the “Ho Cakes” they were out of-all three kinds (blue corn, red pepper, and onion; spinach, mushroom, and onion; sweet potato with squash and onion). Again, what we got was tops: “Jennifer’s Cheese Sensation’’ was as good as we had hoped it would be, the pesto and tomato blending with the melted mozzarella, its soft thickness held between big slices of grilled bread. “Donna’s Hot Sausage” was a sassy layering of sliced, grilled sausage, sweet sautéed onions, and snappy creole mustard. Chicken salad was plain and perfect-big chunks of white meat in mayonnaise served with tomato and lettuce on whole wheat bread.

Sitting in front of an “RV” in Deep Ellum having a picnic lunch has its own funky appeal, but there’s also another attraction: nothing on the menu is more than $5. It’s hard to find lunch anywhere that cheap, much less a good, and amusing, one. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Tue & Wed 6 p.m.- midnight, Thur-Sat 6 p.m.-3 a.m. Cash only. -Mary Brown Malouf

D REVISITS



BURGERS



D Revisits Burger House. Since 1951, they’ve been lining up at lunch and dinnertime outside this tiny spot across from SMU; lining up. both because the burgers are good and because this is some of the slower fast food around. Place your order and wait-they really do cook it to order here. Burgers and fries are seasoned with “secret salt.” a blend reeking of onion and garlic powder. Sometimes it tastes great to me; other (times it’s overpowering, but Burger House will leave it off if you so request. Somehow the flavors blend well with a chocolate shake, but what doesn’t? 6913 Hillcrest. 361-0370. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



D Revisits Chuck’s Old-Fashioned Hamburgers. Chuck’s is the equivalent of the after-school hangout, for parents. It’s a favorite stop for before or after soccer games and scout meetings, and for good reason. It’s last, but it’s not fast food, Everything is prepared to order, but they do it in a hurry, so the kid-pleasing menu of burgers and fries becomes food that adults like. too. These burgers taste the way you remember burgers-the griddled patties are thin but not mushy, and the bun has been toasted right alongside. 8309 Westchester, in Preston Center. 369-7600. -M.B.M.



CHINESE



D Revisits August Moon. The original location in Far North Dallas still seems one of the better fancy Chinese res taurants in town. The long menu has lots of interesting byways. Our favorite appetizer is the Ming shrimp with Chinese crépes-kind of a seafaring version of moo shi pork, filled with a mixture of chopped, fresh shrimp and tiny dried ones. Chef’s specials lean toward gala combinations with lots of ingredients-Three Treasures from the Orient includes real crab meat along with scallops and shrimp. The kitchen does a good job on the standard stir-fried dishes, especially the chicken ones, but don’t resist the red snapper Hunan style if it is listed as a daily special-the crisp skin and snowy white meat are separated from the bones by a dexterous waiter and topped with a pungent sauce full of vegetables and julienned pork. 15030 Preston Rd at Belt Line. 385-7227. Moderate. -W.L.T.



FRENCH



D Revisits Chez Gerard. This is one of the most charming dining rooms in town; the combination of warm wood and soft florals is so convincing you could almost believe the French doors lead into a garden with a pear tree, instead of a patio on McKinney Avenue. Almost everything here is very French, from the graciously Gallic service to the menu. On our last visit we began our meal with a vigorous salad of endive, bright red tomato, and translucent prosciutto. Onion soup made a more soothing, savory start for my companion. Tournedos of beef were juicy and red in a chocolate-brown sauce, and the noisettes of lamb tender and fragrant. Pommes frites here remind you of what fried potatoes can be-thin, golden crisp, and piping hot, they complemented the rich meat perfectly. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate. -M.B.M



D Revisits L’Ancestral. Dining at L’Ancestral is oneof the more serene experiences you can have in a Dallas restaurant. The subdued dining room, with portraits of somebody’s ancestors watching over it, is decorous but homey, like a grandmother’s dining room. Service is warm but discreet. And, on our last visit, the food was faultless but unpretentious-traditional dishes prepared with care and imagínatíon. The lovely onion tart was filled with thin strips of onion cooked to caramel and accented with a touch of orange zest; the lamb mignonettes were just cooked till rosy. There’s an odd but wonderful salad we love here-a mix of apple, cheese, cabbage, and ham. all cut in identical tiny dice and bound with rich homemade mayonnaise. This is one of the few places you can order clafouti in Dallas, so do, if you can bypass the perfect caramel pot de crème. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate. -M.B.M.



D Revisits Frank’s. Frank’s, long a standby stop-in for downtown Farmer’s Market regulars, moved a few months ago from its old location to a fresh one at 920 South pearl. But the food is still as small-town homespun as food ever gets-plate lunches, a meat and three vegetables chosen from the day’s list, with bottled salad dressings if salad’s one of the sides you select. The salad itself is iceberg and grated carrot, and me rolls are strictly brown-and-serve. But listen-the meats and vegetables on our visit were magically homesickness-inducing. Meat loaf was light-textured, delicately seasoned, and sauced with fresh tomato. Beef tips were long-simmered succulent, piled on noodle ribbons dripping with the meat’s deep-flavored juice. Black-eyed peas came with a proud country ham chunk, turnip greens held diced turnips and bacon twists, zucchini held their own with lightly slewed tomato quarters. The day’s dessert, bread pudding, would have been better without its rather gluey lemon sauce, but if was rich with raisins. And hey. what do you expect for a total lab of less than ten dollars for two? 920 South Pearl Expwy. 747-1071. Inexpensive. -B.C



INDIAN



D Revisits Ashoka. After a disappointment on our previous visit, we were glad to see Ashoka back in fine form. This is one of the few Dallas-area Indian restaurants that has a buffet at dinnertime as well as at lunch. We had gone in ex pecting to order from the menu, but the freshly laid out buffet offerings looked so tempting that ordering anything more seemed superfluous- It’s wonderful to be able to eat all the fire-engine-red tandoori chicken you want, with an unlim ited supply of naan bread and raita (yogurt with minced vegetables) as accompaniments. We also feasted on little rectangles of homemade cheese in curried spinach, chicken jalfreezi (sautéed with big pieces of sweet peppers and onions), and malai kofia (vegetarian meatballs in a rich cream sauce). 5409 Belt line. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate. -W.L.T.

ITALIAN



D Revisits Cnffé Paparazzi. Less than two years after it opened to general approval in modest shopping center quarters on Forest Lane, this spritzy trattoria has doubled its space in the same brick center, with no discernible negative effects on food or amiable service. Every dish sampled on our dinner visit was praiseworthy: carpaccio was flawless, the thin-shaved, raw beef jewel-fresh under olive oil, fresh lemon, and grated Parmesan cheese. Stuffed mushrooms were topped, rather than stuffed, with tiny balls of herbed veal, but their cream and tomato sauce bath complemented their flavor nicely. Cream of asparagus soup was a gentle marvel; a Caesar salad, though not mixed at table, was the best I’ve had lately, the romaine leaves tender and young, the dressing daringly bracing. Spaghetti alla puttanesca was fresh and lively, sautéed with black olives and peppers in a tomato-basil sauce. A fragile fillet of sole, barely battered and lapped with white wine lemon butter sauce, was flawless, as were veal scallops sautéed with white wine, artichoke, and mushrooms. Desserts offered an irresistible contrast, the profiterole a rich heap of cream-filled pastry puffs lavished with hot chocolate sauce, a sweet, fresh orange the soul of restraint in Grand Marnier lopped with caramelized orange zest. 8989 Forest Lane. Suite 136 644-1323. Moderate. -B.C.

D Revisits Ristorante Savino. Nowhere is the Italian fare so consistently good than at Savino’s. The consistency hit one small snag on this visit, in the form of a too-heavy hand with salt in a couple of otherwise-exemplary dishes. Salmon bisque, the day’s soup, was almost too salty to eat. although its flavor was fresh and rich. An appetizer of in-the-shell mussels stuffed with vodka-spiked bread crumbs and herbs suffered less from the affliction. My companion’s veal chop was beautifully tender and moist beneath a marvelous crown of meaty porcini mushrooms. My own main-dish trio of pastas ran a heady gamut of flavors and textures, from spinach angel-hair pasta richly sauced with lobster meat in cream, to chewy pasta shells zipped with fresh tomato. oregano, basil, and garlic in extra-virgin olive oil. Best thing on the plate, though, was the meltingly mild crepe stuffed with spinach, ricotta, and Parmesan in bechamel sauce. My companion’s side order of fettuccine with Gorgonzola and walnuts in cream sauce was furtber proof that this kitchen’s ways with pasta are masterful indeed. Desserts were delectable-chocolate mousse torte and profiteroles lavished with warm chocolate sauce scored equal points. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive. -B.C.



JAPANESE/KOREAN



D Revisits Shogun of Japan. I had not revisited this off-the-beaten-track little place since soon after it opened, some five years ago. I shall not wait so long again. My companion and I indulged our small-plate preferences shame lessly by ordering half-a-dozen appetizers, one complete dinner, and sharing the whole shebang. From first bite to last, the adventure could not have been more rewarding. Miso soup was an immaculate, clouded broth swirled with turnip leaves and scallion bits. Morsels of jumbo clam were crunchy-fresh, lightly sautéed in lemony butter. Fried soft- shell crab and tofu were gilded with the thinnest crisp-batter coating imaginable, the crab succulent, the tofu a plump, silken pillow, each with its own special dipping sauce. Chicken kara age was a happy surprise-the curls of meat left attached to their little drumstick wingbone handles were crisped in the airiest breading I’ve ever tasted, a secret of the chefs, our server said. Besides those outstanding appetizers, the maku no uchi special dinner’s lacquered box yielded samplings of lacy tempura-fried shrimp and sliced vege tables, spicy beef teriyaki, and skewered marinated beef, as well as steamed potatoes, cold, sliced fish cake, and crab leg joints, with seaweed ribbons and black-sesame-strewn rice for accompaniment. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Moderate. -B.C.



MEXICAN

D REVISITS Blue Mesa Grill. The airy, neo-Santa Fe look of the Blue Mesa, with its rough beams and bright folk an, is chic and comfortable, the service always attentive and refreshingly well informed about the food, which on our visit was both inventive and tasty. There were a number of appetizers that sounded like good ideas-fire-roasted corn and tomato soup, pork chile relleno made with blue corn-but we were happy with the duck tamalito with a confetti of corn and peppers scattered over the spicy duck. A Southwestern Caesar salad was also pleasing, garnished with roasted red bell pepper and poblano and sprinkled with Mexican cheese. A twist on the angel-hair-pasta-grilled-shrimp combination, Blue Mesa’s came dressed with a tart and smoky chipotle and red bell pepper sauce that complemented the shrimp and enlivened the pasta. Adobe pie is a menu standard, still too large a serving to finish at a sitting, still so good you wish you could. A corn masa shell is stuffed with chicken, cheese, and peppers and moistened with chili sauce. A too-cute sounding dessert exceeded expectation: the chocolate mousse taco was a thin, crisp cookie shell filled with fine, bittersweet chocolate mousse cut with the tartness of a raspberry purée. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Parkway. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Cadillac Bar. This is the only restaurant I know of where children-and everyone else-are encouraged to write on the walls. It’s a good thing our children en joyed it, because they had plenty of time to scribble-while we waited for the waiter, waited for our food, waited for the check…Service was very slow, and confused: when we went back inside after our meal to retrieve a forgotten coat, our waiter presented us with a second check; the first one had been inaccurate. Much can be redeemed by wonderful food, but it wasn’t this night: tostados were thin and crisp. and the salsa was sweet and spicy, but the fajitas were fat and chewy; the alambres, skewers of beef, shrimp, peppers, and tomatoes, were good except for the shrimp, which were dry and fishy-tasting; the flautas had been fried to toughness, and they were out of flan, our choice of dessert. 5919 Maple. 350-3777. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.

D Revisits Raphael’s. This was a big favorite in the Seventies, and it is still crowded with regulars who have loyally declined to go on to trendier places. It’s a rambling place, with several rooms and a patio overlooking McKinney. all crowded with tables. The menu is crowded, too, with a comprehensive list of every Tex-Mex favorite, from basic combination plates of tacos and enchiladas, to yesterday’s favorite orders of tacos at carbon and flautas, and today’s top of the heap, fajitas. We sampled a selection and found them all to be adequate but not outstanding examples of the genre. Combination beef and chicken nachos were overloaded with toppings: chorizo quesadillas were flavorful but unappetiz-ingly greasy; chicken enchiladas were packed with chicken and covered with sour cream sauce; flautas were skinny little tubes, short on chicken, and over-fried. 3701 McKinney Ave. 521-9640. Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



SEAFOOD

D Revisits Harbor House. Harbor House harbors some happy surprises in its conventional-looking dinner menu. Shrimp cocktail, for instance, appeared ordinary, its five shrimp lying naked around a plain red sauce. But the sauce was uncommonly zippy, and the shrimp themselves had been boiled in seasonings that gave them a zesty kick. A baked oyster appetizer, too. was outstanding, the half-shelled array bathed in a fondue of onions and spinach with while wine sauce under a toasty glaze of moz- zarella. Fresh snapper fillet was gracefully sautéed with mushrooms and quartered artichoke hearts in lemon butter; a thick tuna portion was fresh-flavored enough to rise above its simple lemon-butter preparation; salmon in puff pastry was succulently piled with mushrooms, thyme-sauced, in its papery golden wrapper. Only a fried combination plate of catfish fillets, shrimp, and oysters seemed ordinary, though properly peppered and corn-meal-crusted. But even the hush puppies were far better than average, crisp and light, and subtly piquant. And a just-made zabaglione deserved accolades for its frothy creaminess. generously studded with sliced bananas and strawberries. 4844 Greenville Ave. 368-8911. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.



TAKEOUT



D Revisits City Market. Lunch is a sure bet at this streamlined, clean-cut, downtown favorite. The setting is citified, and the cafeteria-style service line efficient, but the food is satisfyingly homey, served up with imagination. The menu features a rotating selection of salads, soups, hot desserts, and entrées, in addition to regular salads and pastries. Everything was a success on our last visit: the chicken salad held big chunks of white meat, bound with a rosemary-scented mayonnaise; the “soup” selection was a bowl of “chili ranch,” the spicy seasoned meat mixed with corn, onions, and other vegetables; tuna salad was given crunch with toasted almonds; the muffins were jazzed with basil and Parmesan. After all this, we virtuously split, and quietly battled over, a slice of dense pecan fudge cake. 2001 Ross Ave. 979-2696 Inexpensive. -M.B.M.



FORT WORTH



D Revisits La Marée. Lunch here is a refreshing blend of sophistication and casualness. The dining area is hardly fancier than a lunchroom, but there are flowers about, and the food is certainly festive. The food ranges from the seem ingly ordinary red beans and rice (which turned out to be seasoned with spicy, extraordinary homemade sausage) to the complexity of Louisiana ravioli filled with ricotta cheese in a creamy shrimp and crab sauce. Arroz con queso sounds homey-black beans and Mexican rice topped with jalapeno cheese and salsa-but it has a complex enough flavor to satisfy the most discriminating. The inspired simplicity of baked brie with a fruit salad is tastier than the overly elaborate pecan-fried chicken breast. Don’t forget to leave room for dessert. All that we tried were fabulous, especial ly the raspberry apple tart and the brownie-like squares of chocolate-buttermilk cake. 3416 W Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Inexpensive. -W.L.T.

RESTAURANTS

D RECOMMENDS



BARBECUE



Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines

Blvd (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.

Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.

Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams). 823-5524. Inexpensive.

Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate

Dickey’s Barbecue. 4610 N Central Expwy. 823-0240. Inexpensive.

Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.

Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N Market, Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive 10 moderate.

Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.

Spring Creek B-B-Q. 270 N Central Expwy, Richardson. 669-0505. Inexpensive.

BRITISH

Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.

Jennivine’s Culinary Centre. 3521 Oak Grove at Lemmun Ave. 528-4709. Inexpensive.

BURGERS

The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.

Chip’s. 4501 N Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.

8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.

Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.

Prince of Hamburgers. 5210 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.

Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line, Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E Campbell. Richardson, 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive.

Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. Inexpensive.

CAJUN

Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive

Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line, Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.

Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.

Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.

Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N Central Expwy at Parker Rd. Flano. 422-2469. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pontchartrain. 13444 N Preston Rd. 385-1522. Inexpensive.

CHINESE

Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent, Suite 148. 871-6868. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.

Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W 15th. Suite 80. Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.

Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway (off Belt Line between Addison and Midway Rds), Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.

Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.

Forbidden City. 4514 Travis. Suite 201. 520-1888. Moderate.

Hong Kong Royale. 221 W Polk. Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.

Jasmine Uniquely Chinese. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200, Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.

May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.

Plum Blossom. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Fwy. 748-1200. Expensive.

Snow Pea. 2007 Abrams Pkwy (off Gaston). 824-4354. Inexpensive.

Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. Inexpensive to moderate.

Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.

Taton. 9243 Skillman, Suite 104. 343-0545. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tong’s. 11661 Preston, Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.

Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.

Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370. 934-9998. Expensive.

FRENCH/CONTINENTAL

Brasserie Calluaud. 4544 McKinney Ave. 521-2277. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.

Cafe Royal. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 979-9000. Expensive to very expensive.

Chateaubriand. 3701 W Northwest Hwy (at Marsh Lane). 351-2248. Expensive.

The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.

The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.

Jonathan’s. The Centrum, 3102 Oak Lawn, Suite 495. 520-8308. Moderate.

La Madeleine. 3072 W Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. Inexpensive.

L’Amblance. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Expensive.

Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.

L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.

Mr. Peppe. 5617 W Lovers Ln. 352-5976. Moderate to

The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.

The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.

Watel’s. 1923 MeKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPE

Athenee Cafe. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort. Suite 150. 239-8060. Moderate.

Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.

Bohemia. 2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.

The Chimney. 9739 N Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.

Franki’s Li’I Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garland Rd at Buckner. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3830 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. .163-2231. Inexpensive.



GREEK

Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line, Suite 118. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.

Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd, Attdison. 239-8105. Expensive.

Crackers. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-7268. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.

Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.



HOME COOKING

The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W Parker Rd,Suite 527,. Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.

Brownie’s. 5519 E Grand Ave. 824-2996. Inexpensive.

Celebration. 4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.

Craven Heifer. 4814 Greenville. 739-0943. Inexpensive.

Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950Greenville Ave. 69I-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox.526-3801. 9500 Garland Rd. Suite 300. 327-3663. 5100 BeltLine. Suite 600. 934-8800. Lincoln Plaza. Second Floor,500 N Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.

Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126.Inexpensive.

Mama’s Daughter’s Diner. 2104 Irving Blvd.742-8646. inexpensive.

The Mecca. 10422 Harry Mines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.

Rosemarie’s. 1411 N Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.

Theo’s Diner. 111 S Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.

Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center, 350 N St Paul & Bryan.953-1353. 1800 N Market. 969-0310. 8121 Walnut Hill at N Central Expwy. 739-6700. Inexpensive.

Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976. Inexpensive.

INDIAN

Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).

India Palace Restaurant. 13360 Preston. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300. Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.

Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.

Mumtaz. The Atrium, 3101 N Fitzhugh at MeKinney Ave. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.

Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14848 Inwood. Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.

Sitar. 9560 Skillman. #104. 343-2063, Inexpensive to Moderate.

Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 179. 692-0535. 1600 N Piano Rd at Collins. Richardson. 235-3794. Moderate.

ITALIAN

Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.

Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.

Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.

Antonucci’s. 3827 Lemmon Ave at Oak Lawn. 522-4056. Inexpensive.

Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).

Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.

Capriccio, 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.

Chianti. 4820 Greenville Ave. 691-6769. Moderate.

Ciao. 3921-B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Inexpensive to moderate.

Colombo’s. 6101 Greenville Ave. 373-7777. Moderate.

Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd, in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3304. Moderate.

Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.

II Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.

La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.

Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mario’s. 135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Expensive.

Massimo da Milano. 5519 W Lovers Ln. 351-1426. Inexpensive to moderate.

Momo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln, Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N Central Expwy. Suite 370, Plano. 423-1066. Moderate.

MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.

Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.

Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.

Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.

Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.

Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.

Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.

Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.

Spaghetti Inn-Mike’s Italian Restaurant. 6465 E Mockingbird. 827-7035. Moderate.

311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-032 Moderate to expensive.

JAPANESE/KOREAN

Fuji-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.

Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.

Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W North-west Hwy, Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.

Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza, 5000 Belt Line, Suite 600 934-8150. Moderate to expensive.

Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.

Mr. Sushi & Hibachi. 9220 Skillman. 349-6338 Moderate.

Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village Suite 360, 3309 N Central Expwy. Piano 881-0328 Moderate.

Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.

Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.

Sushi On McKinney Ave. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate.

MEDITERRANEAN

Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.

Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy. in the Grand Kempin-ski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.

MEXICAN

Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.

Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave at Prospect. 821-6501. Moderate.

Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. Moderate.

Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.

Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village (Inwood at Lovers Ln). 350-5227. Moderate.

Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.

Garcia’s Caribbean Grill. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy. 358-2664. Moderate.

Garmo’sy Lito’s. 2847 N Henderson. 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.

Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.

Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.

J. Pepe’s. 2800 Roulh St. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Botica Cafe. 1900N Haskell, 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.

La Supreme Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. Inexpensive

Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Moderate.

Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.

Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721, 221 W Parker, Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.

The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston, Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.

Mercado Juarez. 1901 W Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line. Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.

On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.

Pappasito’s. 723 S Central Expwy, Richardson. 480-8595. Moderate.

Prime’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.

Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 7726 Ferguson Rd. 328-5797. Inexpensive to moderate.

Ricardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.

Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.

Villa Margarita. 362 Promenade Center. Coit & Belt Line, Richardson. 235-5447. Moderate.

ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 52I-4456. Inexpensive.

MIDDLE EAST

Hedary’s. Promenade Center. 15400 Coit, Suite 2500, Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.

NATURAL

Bluebonnet Cafe & Deli. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.

Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.

NEW AMERICAN

Actuelle. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St. Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.

Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.

Beau Nash. Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney Ave. 871-3240. Expensive.

The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.

Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.

Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.

City Cafe, 5757 W Lovers Ln. 351-2233. Moderate.

Dakota’s. 600 N Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.

Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.

Huntington Grill. Westin Hotel, Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.

Kathleen’s Cafe and Bar. 4424 Lovers Ln (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.

Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.

Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.

Malibu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate.

Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 52.-0295- Moderate to expensive.

The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.

Pyramid Restaurant and Lounge. 1717 N Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.

Quadrangle Grin. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routn St, Suile 180. 979-9022. Moderate.

Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Spatz. 2912 N Henderson. 827-7984. Moderate.

SEAFOOD

Atlantic Cafe. 4546 McKinney Ave at Knox. 559-4441. Expensive.

Atlantic Cafe Tool 14866 Montfort. Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.

Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.

Cafe Pacific. Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. Suite 24. 526-1170. Expensive.

Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N Centra] Expwy at Chisholm. Suite 600. Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.

Hampton’s. Berkshire Court. Preston Center. 8411 Preston. 739-3474. Moderate.

Hard Shell Cafe. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Moderate.

Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.

Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.

Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Inexpensive to moderate.

Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave at Pineland. 363-3896. Moderate.

Rusty Pelican. 14655 Dallas N Pkwy, Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.

S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.

Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.

Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Comer Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill. Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.

SPANISH



iCaramba! 3277 McKinney Ave. 720-9181. Inexpensive to moderate.



STEAKS



Arthur’s. 8350 N Central Expwy. Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.

The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 808 Munger, off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.

Mike’s Del Frisco’s. 2200 Cedar Springs, Suite 165, at The Crescent. 720-4454. Expensive.

Morton’s of Chicago. 501 Elm St. 741-2277. Expensive.

The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.

TAKEOUT/DELI



Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301-A Oak Lawn (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.

Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd, Suite 117. 980-1444. Inexpensive.

Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.

Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.

Dell News. 15775 Hillcrest. Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.

The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gascon Ave 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.

Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate.

Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St. Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.

Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.

Polio Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.

Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.

Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.

THAI



New Siam. 2415 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 108 (at Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.

Sala Thai. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.

Thai Lanna. 1490 W Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.

Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.

Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.



VIETNAMESE



Ba Le. 4812 Bryan at Fitznugh. 821-1880. Inexpensive.

East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mekong. 4301 Bryan, Suite 101. 824-6200. Inexpensive.

Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.

LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES

Cacharel. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E Lamar. Suite 910, Arlington. (817)640-9981.

China Terrace. 5435 N MacArthur, Las Colinas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.

Esparza’s. 124 E Worth St. Grapevine. (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.

Gaspar’s Cafe. 150 S Denlon Tap Rd, Coppell. 393-5152.

Moretti’s, 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.

Via Real. 4020 N MacArthur. Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.

FORT WORTH

Benio’s. 1450 W Magnolia. (817} 332-8633. Inexpensive.

Hedary’s. 3308 Fair field at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.

Juanlta’s. ||5 W Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.

Reflections. The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Expensive.

Saint Emllion. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.

Tejano Mexican Cuisine. 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.

Tours. 3500 W Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderalte to expensive.

Tuscany. 425:5 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.

NIGHTLIFE

Adair’s. 2624 Commerce. 939-9900.

Amnizia. 2829 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 632. 351-1262.

The Art Bar. 2803 Main St. 939-0077.

Arthur’s. Campbell Centre, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833.

Baja Beach Club. 1300 E Copeland Rd. Arlington. (817) 261-2647.

Bar of Soap. .3615 Parry. 823-6617.

Belle Starr. 7724 N Central Expwy. 750-4787.

Boiler Room. Pan of Dallas Alley in the West End MarketPlace, 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.

Borrowed Money. 9100 N Central Expwy at Park Ln. 361-9996.

Buyers Bar. Stouffer Hotel, 2222 Stemmons Frwy. 631-2222.

Cadillac Jack’s. 5505 Belt Line. 701-9892.

Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969.

Club A. 5201 Matilda at Lovers Ln (off Greenville Ave). 369-6977.

Club Clearview. 2806 Elm St. 939-0006.

Club Dada. 2720 Elm St at Crowdus. 744-3232.

Club Mirage. 4908 Greenville Ave. 696-0394.

Cowboys. 7331 Gaston Ave. 321-0115.

Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill at Stemmons Frwy. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill (at N Central Expwy). 361-5553.

Dave’s Art Pawn Shop. 2544 Elm at Good La timer. 748-7111.

The Den. Stoneleigh Terrace Hotel. 2927 Maple. 871-7111.

Dick’s Last Resort. Corner of Record and Ross. 747-0001.

Electric Jungle. 2923 Elm. 748-6164.

Encounters. Doubletree Hotel. 8250 N Central Expwy. 691-8700.

Fat Tuesday. 6778 Greenville Ave. 373-7377.

Four Seasons Ballroom. 4930 Military Pkwy. 644-5622.

Froggy Bottoms. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace, 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.

Gator’s. 1714 N Market. 748-0243.

Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171.

Greenville Bar & Grill. 2821 Greenville Ave. 823-6691.

Harper’s. Hilton Inn, 5600 N Central Expwy. 823-9180.

Highland Park Yacht Club. 4515 Travis. 521-6071.

Humperdink’s. 6050 Greenville Ave. 368-6597.

Iguana Mirage. 9330 N Centra! Expwy. 696-2582.

Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N Central Expwy (in The Corner Shopping Center). 750-5868. 4980 Bell Line at Quorum, Suite 250, Addison. 404-8503.

Joe Miller’s. 3531 McKinney Ave. 521-2261.

Kempi’s. 15201 Dallas Pkwy in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000.

Knox Street Pub. 3230 Knox. 526-9476. KU.3232 McKinney Ave. Suite 131. 953-3040.

Late Night… In the West End. 1901 Laws St. 954-1901.

Laurels. Sheraton Park Central. 12720 Merit Dr. 851-2021.

The Library Bar. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151.

Louie’s. 1839 N Henderson. 826-0505.

The Lounge. 5460 W Lovers Ln. 350-7834.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek Bar. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121.

Max’s 403. 5500 Greenville Ave, Suite 403. 361-9517,

Memphis. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line, Suite 500. 386-9934.

Metronome. 703 McKinney. 522-4341.

Milo Butterfinger’s. 5645 Yale. 368-9212.

Mimi’s. 5111 Greenville Ave. 368-1994.

Mucky Duck. 3102 Welborn in the Centrum. 522-7200.

Nana Bar and Grill. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200.

The Outback Pub. 1701 N Market. 761-9355.

The Palm Bar. Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200.

Pinot’s Wine Bar. 2926 N Henderson. 826-1949.

Plaza Bar. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace, 2019 N Lamar, 988-0581.

Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.

Prizm. 2600 Main St. 601-7777.

Randy’s. 15203 Knoll Trail, Addison. 907-2639.

The Safari Bar. 10821 Composite Dr. 351-3262.

Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. Suite 140. 855-2233.

Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.

State. 3611 Parry. 821-9246.

Stoneieigh P. 2926 Maple. 871-2346.

Strictly Tabu. 4111 Lomo Alto. 528-5200.

Studebaker’s. NorthPark East, 8788 N Central Expwy. 696-2475.

Take Five. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.

Tijuana Yacht Club. 5111 Greenville Ave. 692-9855.

Tilt. In the West End Marketplace, 603 Munger. 720-7276.

Top of the Dome. Hyatt Regency Hotel. 300 Reunion Blvd. 651-1234.

2826. 2826 Elm St. 741-2826.

The Venue. 2727 Canton St. 701-3502.

Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.

The Voodoo Bar. 302 N Market. 655-2627.

White Rock Yacht Club. 7324 Gaston. Suite 301. 328-3866.

The Wine Press. 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720.

Xcess. 2912 McKinney Ave. 754-0565.

Zanzibar. 2912 Greenville Ave. 828-2250.

FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE

Billy Bob’s Texas. 2520 Rodeo Plaza. Fort Worth Stockyards. (817) 624-7117.

The Blue Bird. 5636 Wesley. (817) 732-6243.

Caravan of Dreams. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000.

The Hop. 2905 W Berry. (817) 923-7281.

The Kress Club. 604 Main St. (817) 336-5737.

West Side Stories. 3900 Hwy 377. (817) 560-SODA.

The White Elephant Saloon. 106 E Exchange. (817) 624-8273.