The nose says tequila, the tongue says terrific, the brain says “What is this stuff?” The name’s Monte Toca, claimed by its importers to be the first liqueur made from premium gold tequila and bottled in Mexico for export-primarily to tequila-thirsty Texans. The first few cases trickled across the border in time for the holiday season. Sipped straight, on the rocks, or in coffee, it’s a fine, warming answer to the after-dinner cordial question.
COOKING WITH CLASSPROFILE Kevin Garvin knows his way around the kitchen. One of the new breed of culinary whiz kids, Garvin has cooked up quite a reputation as executive chef of The Adolphus Hotel. A native of Philadelphia, 31-year-old Garvin left his post at The Cincinnatian Hotel in Cincinnati in 1987, lured by Dallas’s “bustling food scene.” Now firmly entrenched, he’s found time to pursue another interest: teaching laymen to cook. Unlike most chefs, Garvin doesn’t mind sharing trade secrets. Teamed with Charlotte Loudermilk of The Creative Kitchen, he teaches more than a dozen specialty courses a year. Garvin says his classes are successful because he bombards his students with ideas and as many as IS different recipes in one session. Avowed foodies and novices alike are wowed by his instruction. Now fans are even sending their private cooks to him. -Anne Warren
On the Town the Big Easy Way
BON TEMPS Crescent City Cafe owner Louis Shiell promises liveentertainment at his place Mardi Gras day even if he has to do it himself. On second thought, he says, “no one wants to see a 270-pound man dancing on the bar.” Au contraire, cher. It’s such a N’Awlins thing to do.
Mardi Gras is Feb. 27, and for those who can’t book two to the Big Easy, Shiell and other local bar and restaurant owners are trying to ease the pain. If you know what it means to miss New Orleans at Carnival time, check out:
Arcadia Bar & Grill. Live band, party favors, and free beer from 9-10. 2114 Greenville.
Atchafalaya River Cafe. The already raucous atmosphere promises to get even more so with a Dixieland band and drink and menu specials. 4440 Belt Line.
Cafe Margaux. Beads, baubles, and a buffet with crawfish étouffée, red beans and rice, fried oysters, and Dixie beer. Buffet 5:30-10 p.m. Feb. 26-29. 4216 Oak Lawn.
Copeland’s. A mime and magician will perform while a caricaturist captures your visage for posterity. 5353 Belt Line.
Crescent City Cafe. The Deep Ellum eatery’s costumed staff will serve up special drink and menu items and free beignets. Live music. 2730 Commerce.
Louisiana Purchase. Look for festive decorations, drink specials, and dishes like shrimp créole and champagne chicken. 2901 N. Central Expressway.
Pontchartrain. Decorations and drink and dining specials the week preceding Mardi Gras, and a live band Mardi Gras day. 13444 N. Preston. -Renee Kientz
ON THE ROAD So nobody drives to Waco just to eat. Everybody drives to Austin sometime, though. Which calls For a halfway stop For provisions and etceteras. Which means Waco, which means the Elite. Among Austin-bound Dallas motorists Who Know, the Elite Cafe has been an automatic halfway habit for longer than anyone cares to remember-back before the Interstate, when highway traffic crawled around Waco’s baffling traffic circle, you couldn’t miss the Elite’s comfortably shabby sprawl right at the edge of the road. Even now, it’s not hard to find: the elevated sign that spells out “ELITE” in lights still summons the faithful to take the Valley Mills Drive exit. Not as shabby as it used to be, the café has evolved over the years, and so has its food-lusty burgers are popular as ever, but the old meat-loaf- and-fried-steak standards have given way to a chicken jack sandwich with avocado or beef fajitas, available solo and sizzling or stuffed in a baked potato. The most startling innovation is a trendy grilled chicken breast under melted provolone- with mushrooms, yet. Not to worry, though-the service is still small-town friendly enough to put up with whining, travel-tired children as well as the boisterous Baylor crowd that thinks the Elite is theirs. Little do they know. It’s there for us, just as it has always been, from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily. (817) 754-4941. -Betty Cook
HANGOUT OFTHE MONTH
Our favorite spotfor affairs of theheart and otherassorted liaisonsis the bar at TheAmbassadorPlaza Hotel, 1312S. Ervay. It’s notonly off-the-beaten-path buthas atmosphereto spare, bothrequisite foran interestingevening orafternoon . . .
To your heart’s delight, dining out doesn’t have to be all bran or all-bland. Herewith, a diverse sampling of restaurants making particular points of offering low-cholesterol, low-fat fare at low cost:
Rodolfo’s: one of the first in Dallas to earn the American Heart Association’s nod of approval, this three-location Italian establishment calls the health-conscious side of its menu Lite-Italian. Dishes are passionately prepared and calorie counts are even printed alongside each dish. Most intriguing feature: a section listing veal, chicken, and seafood with a selection of sauces, to let patrons create their own entrée-and add up their total calories.
Mariano’s Mexican Cuisine: who would have guessed you could pig out on beef fajitas or tortilla soup with chicken without sin? Mariano’s three are the only Mexican restaurants in the M trop I ex so far entitled to mark approved dishes on their menus with the Heart Association symbol.
MoMo’s: both the original MoMo’s Italian Specialties and MoMo’s Pasta on Knox feature dishes especially prepared to keep heart-watchers healthy. While the menus aren’t marked, waiters are primed to counsel the careful in appropriate selecting.
Spatz: tired of ethnic? Try low-priced New American- practically everything on this zippy little eatery’s menu curtsies to health. Prime picks: a warm salad of grilled chicken breast on tri-colored orzo in a sun-dried tomato-basil pesto, or a grilled Norwegian salmon fillet with a mustard and peppercorn sauce. -Betty Cook
New Age Barbecue Descends On Dallas
PEGGY SUE BBQ People either love or hate Peggy Sue’s-our party was about evenly divided-and enough people love it that it is even crowded in the evening with big Park Cities families and intellectuals who bicker in foreign accents. It’s a rarity for a barbecue joint to have such a clientele, to have any clientele at all after about 2 p.m., or to have waitresses and waiters who might have stepped out of Baby Routh. But then, Peggy Sue’s is trying hard not to he just another barbecue joint.. .you might call this New Age barbecue. The various meats really are smoked and have the unique oakey flavor and juiceless texture to prove it. The chicken (available in either white-or dark-meat quarters) tastes a lot like the best smoked turkey, with smooth flesh and inedible skin. This doesn’t work as well on the ribs (I prefer juicier, lip-smacking examples, myself) or on the kielbasa sausage. But the sliced beef is moist and flavorful. The slightly spicy sauce is served on the side, as it should be.
But the delights of Peggy Sue’s only begin with the barbecue itself. The side dishes are really exceptional-and sometimes controversial. First of all, there is a modest but impeccably fresh salad bar, complete.” with homemade dressings (including a maverick version of ranch-style, a blue cheese with little nuggets of cheese in it, and an excellent Italian). Some of the vegetables are not unusual in a barbecue place, except for their quality. The French fries, for instance, may be the best in town-a French restaurant could call them pommes frites and charge big bucks for them-and the pinto beans, though a bit al dente in the manner of the New American big hoys, certainly have class. But the potato salad, with its hard-to-identify addition of spices, is certainly progressive. And the cole slaw tastes for all the world as if it were made with Japanese rice wine vinegar. To get to the real heresies, though-whoever heard of serving steamed broccoli with lemon butter, yellow squash casserole, or a delectable stir-fried vegetable medley with barbecue? Zounds, this place might make us think of barbecue as something good for you, and where would we all be then?
At least the one don’t-miss-it dessert here can never be accused of being good for you. That dessert-fried pies-sounds homey and old-fashioned, but these are fabulous little creations made of superbly turned out pastry, plumped with all kinds of innovative fillings, then deep-fried to a light and delicate turn. We sampled apricot (which seemed to have been stewed up from dried fruit) and chocolate, but here there are such delights as banana cream and cinnamony apple as well. Count us among those who love Peggy Sue’s. But be warned that barbecue traditionalists may come out of here kicking and screaming. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. 11 am-9pm daily. MC, V. Inexpensive. -W. L. Taitte
An Oak Cliff Oasis
BISHOP ARTS CAFE Again, the question arises: will Dallas diners cross the river to sample a delightful dining experience in Oak Cliff? If they won’t, in this case it will be our loss-the artsy corner of Oak Cliff where this new restaurant has staked out its claim is one of the more intriguing pockets of promise to develop lately.
Oak Cliffs light burns with a gentler glow, sans bar-related nightlife because it is sans liquor. What it has is a growing number of small specialty shops and galleries, reflecting the energies of the amiable colony of creative types in the neighborhood centering on North Bishop and West Seventh streets.
And what it has now is a neat new eatery that matches the freshened spirit of the environment. Occupying restored storefront space that formerly housed the Yorkshire Tearoom, Bishop Arts Cafe has been launched by Mickey Miller and Daniel Dean. Both have restaurant backgrounds. Miller’s at Knox Street Pub and Dean’s at the old La Cave. With Dean in the kitchen and Miller managing the front, their new enterprise has some of the laid-back ambience of those two places without being quite like either.
The food here reflects the fresh, homelike atmosphere of the place in a menu that changes daily. On our visit, dinner starters were simple and superior-a split-pea soup that was actually zingy, not dull.
and a sophisticated little salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette. Best of the entrées we tried was a pork tenderloin roasted to succulence in a subtle green peppercorn sauce. Beef tenderloin medallions, wine-sauced with mushrooms, were hardly less stellar; seafood fettuccine was short on crab meat, but held plenty of satiny scallops and crunchy shrimp bites among al dente ribbons of pasta. A sauté of fresh vegetables accompanied the meats; warm, crusty little French loaves and butter were unstintingly replenished. Desserts made by a Dallas woman especially for the café were the least homemade touch, although one called Strawberries Frasier, involving fresh berries and whipped cream with fine pastry, was memorable.
A return visit for lunch found another soup-black bean, dark and piquant beneath scallion-graced sour cream-worth writing home about, and a beef stew sturdy and flavor-filled enough to stand on its own as a meat-and-vegetable meal. A main-dish Greek salad was lavished with feta cheese, although its house dressing-the same mustard vinaigrette of our first visit-robbed it of authenticity. Ravioli in fresh tomato sauce was simply wonderful, the fresh pasta pillows plump with ricotta, the Parmesan sprinkles that topped them a fine accent. Bread pudding was rather too solid for my taste, but was generously studded with raisins and pecans.
The only thing you should know before visiting Bishop Arts is to bring your own wine or beer-the area, as we’ve said, is dry. But yours will be graciously poured, with no corkage fee, and the pleasure of discovering this charming new place will cancel out that small inconvenience, as well as that of the short drive to Oak Cliff. 316 West Seventh St. 943-3565. Lunch Man-Sat & Sun brunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Wed-Sat 6-9 pm. No credit cards accepted. Inexpensive to moderate. -Betty Cook
Menu But Food
ZUMA MEXICAN GRILL “Contemporary Mexican” is how this restaurant is tagged, and, reading the menu, one would expect the food to follow-innovative dishes using traditional Mexican ingredients. Unfortunately, the menu is a good read, hut it doesn’t prepare you for what is to come; most of the food we’ve tried has been a good idea on paper only.
The best thing on both our visits was the first thing our waiter brought us-the absolutely fresh flour tortillas and orange honey butler served instead of complimentary chips and salsa. Though a trifle sweet to my taste for a pre-dinner snack, they were delicious. Queso fundido, melted cheese with poblano pepper, onion, and smoky chorizo, was also good, though a confused waiter at first misunderstood and brought us cranberry juice in its place. Both first courses arrived lukewarm-the tortilla lime soup and a tamalito made of sweet corn meal topped with one tepid shrimp.
Mr. Z’s dinner salad, a toss of romaine and mushrooms with slices of orange and toasted pine nuts, was good, though the dressing was too sweet. But the lamb chop and rotisserie pork loin, one of Zuma’s specialties, was undercooked, forgivable in the case of the lamb but unappetizing in the pork. The accompanying flan of smoked corn and chilies, and the grilled vegetables, tasted good, but again, were served cool. A traditional arroz con polio was a great idea, and the heap of red-tinged rice looked lovely, with pieces of red and green peppers, carrot and celery slices, and sautéed onions mixed in with the white chicken meat. It’s too bad the chicken meat was so dry, spoiling an otherwise good dish.
The best dessert we tried was a “Macko and bianco” flan,, a layer of dark chocolate custard topped by one of creamy vanilla. Service was slow on both visits, though friendly, and the wide-open spaces of the restaurant’s design make noise a problem, even when the restaurant is not full. 2701 Stemmons Frwy, between Motor and Inwood. 631-3050. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.
-Mary Brown Malouf
Steak And Seafood Suitable For The Whole Family
CALLAWAYS Since several fishmarkets have made a success of the formula of retail out front and restaurant in the back, a similar approach by a butcher shop would seem to make sense. Callaways displays appetizing-looking cuts of beef of all kinds in its case in front, and a spacious, informal area for dining waits beyond in the new Richardson location. (These folks have had a butcher shop in Arlington for years.) So far, so good. After playing Trivial Pursuit with the cards provided on the tables while we waited, and after sampling the appetizers, which made a big hit with family members of all ages, we thought this just might be the family-style steak house that Dallas needs but hasn’t quite had since Kirby’s closed. The appetizers included buffalo wings and a huge platter (dubbed “small”) of garlicky sautéed crab fingers, steak nachos, and fried cheese served up with tomato sauce.
We thought we owed it to ourselves to try at least one of the non-steak specialties, the chicken-fried steak, since the tenderized cube steak slices in the display case suggested it might be the real homemade thing. And indeed it was-a huge portion, maybe slightly overbreaded but crisp, tender, and delicious. The accompanying fries would have been excellent, too, if they had been served hotter. We also thought it important to check out the burgers (the 1/3-pounder with everything was tasty but overcooked) and at least one of the seafood options, since Callaways bills itself as a steak and seafood place. The grilled tuna tasted fresh enough, but was slightly overcooked and dull.
Which brings us to the main event, the steaks. We ordered the smaller (10-ounce) ribeye medium and the 16-ounce T-bone rare. What appeared at our table, after a lengthy delay, was a well-done ribeye and a T-bone cooked medium. Most steak houses these days undercook their beef, on the theory that you can always cook it more (if the piece is sent back) but you can’t cook it less. It was almost touching to be propelled back a couple of decades to the time when it was nearly impossible to actually get a rare steak served to you in Texas, no matter how much you pleaded and insisted. But that seems to us a major (if remediable) flaw in a promising enterprise-as far as we could tell, the beef itself was actually of very good quality. 1381 W Campbell Rd, Richardson. 231-7891. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. MC, V. Moderate. -W.L.T.
German Mit Gusto
OLD MUNICH Brouhaha may not be a German word, but alter it slightly-to brewhaha, say-and you’ve got a perfect one-word description of the atmosphere in this new Caruth Plaza restaurant. I swear, I haven’t seen such earnest merrymaking outside of Oktoberfest in the Hill Country. Opened in the location that once housed Rolfs, Old Munich evidently fills a void that had been keenly felt by this city’s German-food-loving contingent. On a Friday night the place was mobbed with festive revelers, dining and dancing to live German music on the restaurant’s small dance floor.
We saw a young couple dancing with their children. We saw a handsomely Tyrol-hatted octogenarian dancing with her attentive son. We saw a giddy party of Deep Ellum transplants, all decked out in the requisite New Wave designer black-and-white, trying to get the hang of making the proper folk moves to the accordion music.
And we had a German meal my companions. Europeans intimately acquainted with the cuisine, assured me was utterly authentic. Starters of pickled herring and potato pancakes were both outstanding, the fish fillets saucily marinated in sour cream and served with apples, onion, and pickles, the pancakes perhaps a trifle too chewy, but crisp-skinned and nicely accented by their accompanying apple sauce and sour cream.
Entrées were two up, one down: Rahmschnitzel, an array of veal scallops sautéed with cream sauce, was hearty but subtle in flavor. Smoked pork loin-a chop, actually-was rosy and firm-textured but tender, splendidly complemented by its bed of sauerkraut and side of buttered new potatoes. Rouladen, which sounded intriguing, was a full disappointment, a rather horrid arrangement of thin, dry beef rolled around strips of bacon, onion, and too-sour pickles. The spaetzle that accompanied it was watery and flat-flavored; grated red cabbage was properly sweet but seemed somewhat overcooked to me, although my companions declared it a standard version.
Our very helpful, very German waitress rhapsodized over the day’s special dessert, something called Holiday Cake. We tried it and wished we hadn’t-the layered wedge was gelatinous in texture, and barely tinged with the orange flavor promised. Apfelstrudel, though, was a proud composition of tender pastry and crisp-tart apples, served warm and warmly received.
Both American and German wines are on order here, but we found the German beers more intriguing; huge bottles of Spaten Club-Weiss, imported from Munich, went well with the food.
So did the ambience, which, apart from being remarkably lively, was as cordial and warm as the service, which seemed bent on exemplifying the menu’s final admonition: Guten Appetit! 9100 N Central at Park Lane, Suite 117. 369-7737. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm; dinner Mon-Sat 5-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate. -B.C.
A Triste Of Thailand
THAI TASTE An all-Thai menu and a new name are all it took to transform Krisda’s, a Thai-American café, into Thai Taste. So the setting is rather elegant compared with other Dallas Thai restaurants: subdued lighting and while linen-tupped tables, a full bar, and a wine list are niceties not usually found around this kind of food.
The menu is classic Thai, with a few variations-we started with satay, of course, turmeric-tinged chicken strips with a chunky peanut sauce and sweet soaked cucumbers; also with curry-filled dumplings, light, crisp half-moons filled with an unfortunately bland, mostly potato mixture. “Thai taeos,” the shells being thin, crisp circles of rice noodle, folded to hold bean sprouts, toasted coconut, and chunks of tofu and chicken, had the same tendency to fall apart at the first bite as their Mexican namesakes have, but we willingly chased down the bits with a fork. Mee grob is a standard Thai dish that is so much fun to eat I always think someone should hawk it at the State Fair. The tiny rice noodles, fried and stuck together like a popcorn ball with sticky sweet and sour sauce, have a melting texture that is somewhat like cotton candy, hut the shrimp and bright bits of green onion mixed with it keep it from being as cloying as the Rice Krispy bars it may remind you of.
Of the curries, we sampled a green version, with eggplant, handsome with the dark, shiny skins of the intact eggplant chunks showing through the pale green sauce and contrasting with bright green sprigs of mint, holy basil, and Serrano pepper slivers. Too often this dish is cooked to a gray-green mush. The yellow curry was also good to look at, but tasted too much of turmeric and cumin. Thai grilled chicken came as a sliced half-breast instead of skewered as described; the meat was smoky-pink, with a leathery texture, and tasted strongly of black pepper. Chicken fried rice was a substantial dish of egg-flecked rice, chunks of white chicken and tomato, sprigs of cilantro, and strands of wilted onion, good with a squeeze of the lime wedge garnish over it. 4501 Cole Ave. $21-3513. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
D Revisits TNT Bar-B-Que. This hitherto undiscovered spot got into the limelight because it catered a meal for a visit from President Bush. If you don’t have a military escort to pick up the food for you, you stand in line amid the picnic tables and benches and ask for your meal and fixin’s. From out sample, the beautifully glazed ham and the sausage are the best bets among the meals, with the babyback ribs not far behind. Sadly, our sample of beef brisket was sliced from a dried-out end; the sight of rosy, fresh-looking slices on the plates of those who arrived later made us green with envy. The vegetables here seem freshly prepared, but they pale in memory next to the dessert pies. The filling of the sweet potato pic tastes like a pleasant varia-lion on pumpkin, and the crust is tender and not at all soggy Even better is the chess pie. with a crunch)’ top to the filling. 2739 W Northwest Highway, 352-6666. inexpensive. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Chips. Wisely. Chips sticks to doing what it does best: basic burgers, crusty on the outside, rare within: sweet shoestring onion rings and crispy fries; and thick homemade milkshakes. It’s all done just right-the burger buns are toasted, the fries are crunchy outside and soft in side, and the shakes are Just thick enough to make you work your straw. The only concession here to “light” food is (he grilled chicken sandwich, and a “pig sandwich” is as in novative as the menu gets. We’re glad. 4501 N Centra! Expwy. 526-1092- 2445 W Northwest Hw\: 350-8751. Inex pensive. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Atchafalaya River Cafe. A lot of the food is still very spicy here, but they now provide some line alternatives for those who do not like it hot. The shrimp and oysters en brochette proved the best appetizer we have sampled here, with not a drop of Tabasco or a grain of cayenne in the recipe, we’d wager. The seafood platters are bountiful in size, with good versions of fried shrimp, oysters, catfish, stuffed crab, and stuffed shrimp-the deluxe version throws in a delicious soft-shell crab and muddy-tasting frog legs. Fish Pontehartrain (made with Pacific snapper on our visit) is topped with shrimp, crab meat, and mushrooms in a garlic wine cream sauce-the sauce can accompany either grilled fish or blackened fish, and they offer degrees of spiciness for the blackened version. We asked for the moderately spicy rendition, and found it perfect. The only disappointment we experienced on this visit was the crawfish carnival; the crawfish pie and crawfish étouffée emphatically did not remind us of the genuine things served in Southern Louisiana. 4440 licit Lim: Addison. 960-6878. Moderate. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Olivia’s. Long before Deep Ellum turned trendy, this homey holdover from the past dished up hearty breakfasts and plate lunches to working regulars of the area. It still does, exactly as always. At lunch, while you mull the wall menu’s specials, a jeans-clad waitress will assume you want tea: everyone does, and tea here means iced, with follow-up refills. On our visit, the fish was cod, a hefty por tion, simply baked. Chicken-fried sieak was good beef, hand-battered and topped with creditable cream gravy. Tur nip greens cooked Southern-style, with a touch of sugar, held cubes of turnip and bacon; cheese potatoes were lav ished with what appeared to be Velveeta sauce, and a most ly iceberg salad was topped with sliced tomato. Rolls (airy and golden) and corn-meal muffins (too floury and sweet) are house-made here, as are pies of varying persuasions (ours was chocolate, dark and smooth under its quivering pile of meringue). Clientele ranged from old-timers who throng the six-place center tables for what is clearly a daily touching-base ceremony to slick younger office workers discussing Strategy in booths along basket-hung walls. 2912 Elm. 741-0522. inexpensive. -B.C.
D Revisits Loma Luna Cafe. Dallasites mostly wish they were in New Mexico: the slow pace and easy landscape arc a tonic for those frayed by the frantic control of Dallas life, Loma Luna’s pinon scent and adobe walls, and the earthy taste of New Mexican food, are a relief to sore senses, even if it’s only for the duration of a meal; on our last visit, there was a concho-belted crowd enjoying a taste of Santa Fe. (I don’t know if it was the crowd or an effort to achieve authentic atmosphere that accounted for the slow-paced service.) The food was better than usual; the tri-colored chips hot and crisp, the salsas full-flavored without being overly acidic. Sandia chicken was the standout, though enchiladas were also first-rate: the slow-smoked and grilled meat was juicy, tender, and crisp-skinned. We also like the cajeta sundae, vanilla ice cream with a dollop of goat’s milk caramel. 4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011. Moderate. -M.B.M
D Revisits Bluebonnet Cafe. Health food restau rants have always seemed to me to have a certain we-know- what’s-best-for-you insouciance about them. This one, tucked away in the comer of Whole Foods Market, has less than most, but the stall attitude does make one feel not so much served as cheerfully obliged. Noone seems to mind, (hough-possibly because the food is good enough to stand on its own merits for taste as well as health. Knowing our own susceptibility to overload, we skipped the seductively varied salad baron our last visit, ordering tabouleh instead from the by-weight selection of salads offered in a case beside the counter. The choice was blessed, the plump cereal grains infused with cucumber freshness among sweet tomato dice. My companion’s vegetable soup was fresh and load ed with sunny flavor in nicely seasoned tomato broth; his day’s-special bluefish was two tender fillet strips, moistly baked and complemented by a steamed vegetable medley and marvelous whole-grain rolls. My own spaghetti was firm and whole-wheat healthy under a spicy mantle of tomato sauce chunked with squash, corn, and bits of broc coli and garnished with crisp garlic toast. All the dish lacked was a sprinkling of Parmesan: I made do with grated Ched dar from the salad bar. For some reason, no desserts were offered on the day’s menu, but the iced tea was fresh-brewed and the coffee was excellent. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D Revisits Parigi. Parigi has evolved relatively little in the years it has been around. There is still the same bustling, noisy atmosphere-and the same selection of sometimes offbeat New American specialties. The Caesar salad is still bright with the taste of lemon and the tiny pizettas are still as good as your own imagination can make them (our choice of onion confit, goat cheese, andouille sausage, and eggplant was heavenly). One change we did note was that the pasta we ordered-garlic-parsley linguette with shrimp, bell peppers, green beans, and a smothered onion cream sauce-while it did sound as pretentious as ever, proved a tamer combination than Defore. We preferred its relative blandness to the sometimes strange pasta dishes we have encountered here. Our other entree, a fillet of salmon perfectly seared on the outside and juicily fresh within, was only minimally impaired by it* strange garnish of hard black beans and basil. Another twist new to us was the shoo-fly pie for dessert. Although you really had to like the taste of molasses to appreciate the dark filling, the crust flaked tenderly, proving that someone in the kitchen has a marvelous hand with pastry. 3311 Oak Lown 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
D Revisits Old San Francisco Steak house. It’s easy to be patronizing to the formula here, which hasn’t changed since before this small chain moved into Dallas. The girl who perches on a swing and goes higher and higher until she rings a bell every 45 minutes doesn’t entertain anybody older than 12. and the duo cocktail pianists look like they have been lifted from The Fabulous Baker Boys. But then you notice that the two pianists play good music pretty well and that this place serves very good food at prices that have come to seem like a bargain. No wonder that you can wait 15 minutes to be seated even for an early reservation. The server at Old San Francisco still brings a big block of Swiss cheese and loaves of hot bread to the (able at the start of the meal, and the salads are huge (and the Caesar, at no extra charge, even tastes as though an anchovy might have been in its vicinity sometime). It’s hard to believe anyone would have an appetite after all that, but we still managed to put away our perfectly cooked hunks of sirloin strip and ribeye and the accompanying (again perfect) Hufty baked petatoes. Quite good red wines are available by the glass to accom pany the beef, and desserts include a decent (if no! very rummy-tasting) Bananas Foster. Though the steaks here don’t claim to be USDA Prime and they are not aged as thoroughly as those at the more elite steak houses, our impression was that they have a better chance of being cooked to order and certainly offer a good value for the money. 10965 Composite (off Walnut Hill, east of 1-35). 357-0484. Moderate to expensive. -W.LT.
Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd (across from Parkland). 630-0735. Inexpensive.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.
Blue Ribbon B-B-Q. 316 Hillside Village (Mockingbird and Abrams) 823-5524. Inexpensive.
Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston. Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Inexpensive.
Dickey’s Barbecue. 4610 N Central Expwy. 823-0240. Inexpensive.
Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton 939-9419. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N Market, Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.
Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood 357-7120. Inexpensive.
Spring Creek B-B-Q. 270 N Central Expwy. Richardson. 669-0505. Inexpensive.
Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010. Moderate to expensive.
Jennivine Culinary Centre. 3521 Oak Grove ai Lemmon Ave. 528-4709. Inexpensive.
The Bronx. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Inexpensive.
Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.
8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5210 Lemmon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Purdy’s. 4812 Belt Line. Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E Campbell, Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill al Story Ln. 255-6447. Inexpensive.
Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. Inexpensive.
Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821.1300. Inexpensive.
Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. Inexpensive.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N Central Expwy at Parker Rd, Plano. 422-2469. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pontchartrain. 13444 N Preston Rd. 385-1522. Inexpensive.
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Bell Line. 385-7227. 2300 N Central Expwy. 881.0071. Moderate.
Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent, Suite 148. 871.6868. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood, Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W 15th, Suite 80. Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway, Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
Forbidden City. 4514 Travis, Suite 201. 520-1888. Moderate.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W Polk. Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
Jasmine Uniquely Chinese. 4002 Bell Line. Suite 200. Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.
May Dragon. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Plum Blossom. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Slemmons Fwy. 748-1200. Expensive.
Snow Pea. 2007 Abrams Pkwy (off Gaston). 824-4354. Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. Inexpensive to moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.
Taton. 9243 Skillman. Suite 104. 343-0545. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361.6588. Moderate.
Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370- 934-9998. Expensive.
Brasserie Calluaud. 4544 Mckinney Ave. 521 -2277. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Royal. Plaza of the Americas. 650 N Pearl. 979-9000. Expensive to very expensive.
Chateaubriand. 3701 W Northwest Hwy (at Marsh Lane). 351-2248. Expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865. Moderate.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
Jonathan’s. The Centrum. 3102 Oak Lawn. Suite 495. 520-8308. Moderate.
La Madeleine. 3072 W Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. lnexpensive.
L’Ambiance. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 SlemmonsFrwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.
Mr. Peppe. 5617 W Lovers Ln. 352-5976. Moderateto expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Veryexpensive.
The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.
Waters. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort. Suite 150- 239-8060. Moderate.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.
Bohemia. 2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.
The Chimney. 9739 N Central Expwy 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’lI Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza, Garlaod Rd at Buckner. 320-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Inexpensive.
Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Suite 118, Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.
Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd, Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.
Crackers Restaurant. 2621 McKinney Ave. 871-7268. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman 35M592. Moderate.
Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.
The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W Parker Rd. Suite 527, Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.
Brownie’s. 5519 E Graod Ave. 824-2996. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.
Craven Helfer. 4814 Greenville. 739-0943. Inexpensive.
Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House. 1222 Commerce at Field. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.
Frank’s. 920 S Pearl Expwy. 747-1071. Inexpensive.
Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691.3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza at Garland Rd. 327-3663. 5100 Bell Line, Suite 600. 934-8800. Lincoln Plaza, Second Floor. 500 N Akard. 740-2400, Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughters Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Rosemarie’s. 1411 N Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. III S Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center. 350 N St Paul & Bryan. 953-1353. 1800 N Market. 969-0310. Inexpensive.
Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976 Inexpensive.
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260- Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 13360 Preston Rd. 392-0190- Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Mumtaz. The Atrium. 3101 N Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave. Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.
Safl’s Afghan Cuisine. I4848 Inwood, Addison. 991.9292. Moderate.
Sitar. 9560 Skillman. #104. 343-2063. Inexpensive to Moderate.
Ta] Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy. Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderate.
Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871.2262. Moderate.
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521.3585. Moderate to expensive.
Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.
Antonucci’s. 3827 Lemmon Ave at Oak Lawn. 522-4056. Inexpensive.
Avantl. 2720 McKinney Ave. 871-4955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).
Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521.0700. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest, Suite 136. 644-1323. Moderate.
Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871.2004. Expensive.
Chianti. 4820 Greenville Ave. 691.6769. Moderate.
Ciao. 3921-B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Inexpensive to moderate.
Fausto’s Oven. 300 Reunion Blvd. in (he Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741.3304. Moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave 824-9944. Moderate.
II Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.
La Tosca. 7713 Inwood- 352-8373. Expensive.
Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mario’s. 135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Expensive.
Massimo da Milano. 5519 W Lovers Ln. 351.1426. Inexpensive to moderate.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln, Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309 N Central Expwy, Suite 370. Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.
Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.
Patricio. 25 Highland Park Shopping Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Bell Line. Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871.7377. Moderate.
Sffuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.
Spaghetti Inn-Mike’s Kalian Restaurant. 6465 E Mockingbird. 827-7035. Moderate.
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
Fuji Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood.991.8322. Moderate.
Hlbachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 510. 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Kobe Steaks. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line. Suite 600.934-8150. Moderate to expensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4S60 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.
Mr. Sushi & Hlbachi. 9220 Skillman. 349-6338.Moderate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village.Suite 360. 3309 N Central Expwy, Piano. 881.0328.Moderate.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 GreenvilleAve. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 SpringValley. 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351.2281.Mode rate.
Sushi On McKinney Ave. 4500 McKinney Ave.521-0969. Moderate.
Adeimo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy, in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Blue Mesa Grill. Village on the Parkway. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. Suite 500. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave at Prospect. 821.6501. Moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. Moderate.
Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Inexpensive to moderate.
Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Villaec (Inwood at Lovers Ln). 350-5227. Moderate.
Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
Garcia’s Caribbean Grill. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy. 358-2664. Moderate.
Garmo’s y Lito’s. 2847 N Henderson. 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
J. Pepe’s. 2800 Routh St. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Bo tira Cafe. 1900 N Haskell. 824-2005. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Suprema Tortilleria. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. Inexpensive.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Frwy at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis. Suite 105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721. 221 W Parker. Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinex Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston (Preston Park Village), Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
Mercado Juarez. 1901 W Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. 4050 Belt Line, Addison. 458-2145. Inexpensive to mode rale.
Miars. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
On The Border Cafe. 3300 Knox. 528-5900. Moderate.
Pappasito’s. 723 N Central Expwy. 480-8595. Moderate.
Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.
Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 7726 Ferguson Rd. 328-5797. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ricardo’s. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.
Villa Margarita. 362 Promenade Center. Coit and Belt Line, Richardson. 235-5447. Moderate.
ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit. Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.
Dream Cafe. 2800 Routh St in the Quadrangle. 954-0486. Inexpensive.
Actuelle. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St. Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.
Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871.2345. Moderate to expensive.
Beau Nash. Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney Ave. 871-3240. Expensive.
The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
City Cafe. 5757 W Lovers Ln. 351-2233. Moderate.
Dakota’s. 600 N Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Ellum Cafe. 2706 Elm Si. 741.9012. Moderate.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington Grill. Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy, 851-2882. Expensive.
Kathleen’s Cafe and Bar. 4424 Lovers Ln (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355 Moderate to expensive.
Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 8265226. Inexpensive to moderate.
Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Frwy. 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd, 526-2121. Very expensive.
Mallbu Cafe. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521.2233. Moderate.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
Pyramid Restaurant and Lounge. 1717 N Akard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249, Expensive.
Quadrangle Grill. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St, Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.
Routh Street Cafe. 3005 Routh St. 871.7161. Very expensive.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Spatz. 2912 N Henderson. 827-7984. Moderate.
Zettel Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.
Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Montfort, Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Cafe Pacific. Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. Suite 24. 526-1170. Expensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N Central Expwy at Chisholm. Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Berkshire Court. Preston Center. 8411 Preston, 739-3474. Moderate.
Harbor House. 4844 Greenville Ave. 368-8911. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hard Shell Cafe. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Moderate.
Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 Mc Kinney Ave in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Inexpensive to moderate.
Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave at Pineland. 363-3896. Moderate.
Rusty Pelican. 14655 Dallas N Pkwy, Addison. 980-8950. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.
Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. The Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
Arthur’s. 8350 N Central Expwy. Campbell Centre, SuiteM 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steak house. 808 Munger, offLamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Lawry s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777.Moderate to expensive.
Mike’s Del Frisco’s. 2200 Cedar Springs. Suite 165. atThe Crescent. T20-4454. Expensive.
Morton’s. 501 Elm St. 741.2277. Expensive.
The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Veryexpensive.
Al’s New York Style Deli. 3301-A Oak Lawn (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St. 761-9135. Inexpensive.
Bagel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd, Suite 117. 980-1444. Inexpensive.
Battel stein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center. 979-2690. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Dell News. 15775 Hillcrest. Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.
The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Moderate. Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm St, Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.
Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999- Inexpensive to moderate.
Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln. 373-0325. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
New Slam. 2415 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 108 (al Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.
Sala Thal. 4503 Greenville Ave. 696-3210. Moderate.
Thal Lanna. 1490 W Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-36,37. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ba Le. 4812 Bryan at Fitzhugh. 821.1880. Inexpensive.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554- Inexpensive tomoderate.
Mekong. 4301 Bryan. Suite 101. 824-6200. Inexpensive.
Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Cacharel. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E Lamar, Suite 910.Arlington, (817)640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. 5435 N MacArthur. Las Colinas.550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. 124 E Worth St, Grapevine. (817) 481-4668.Inexpensive.
Gaspar’s Cafe. 150 S Denton Tap Rd. Coppell.393-5152. Moderate.
Moretti’s. 2709 Mustang Drive. Grapevine. (817)481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.
Via Real. 4020 N MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064.Moderate to expensive.
Benito’s. 1450 W Magnolia. (817)332-8633. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)731-6961. Moderate.
Juanita’s. 115 W Second. (817) 335-1777. Moderate.
La Maree. 3416 W Seventh. (817) 877-0838. Inexpensive.
Reflections. The Worthington Hotel. 200 Main. (817)870-1000. Expensive.
Saint Emilion. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781.Moderate to expensive.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd.(817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours. 3500 W Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate toexpensive.
Tuscany. 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.
Amnizia. 2829 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 632- 351-1262.
The Art Bar. 2803 Main St. 939-0077.
Arthur’s. Campbell Centre, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361.8833.
Boller Room. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace, 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581.
Club Clearview. 2806 Elm St. 939-0006.
Club Dada. 2720 Elm St at Crowdus. 744-3232.
Dave & Buster’s. 10727 Composite. 353-0649. 8021 Walnut Hill. 361.5553.
Dick’s Last Resort. Corner of Record and Ross. 747-0001.
Harper’s. Hilton Inn. 5600 N Central Expwy. 823-9180.
Improv Comedy Club and Restaurant. 9810 N Central Expwy. 750-5868. 4980 Belt Line at Quorum. Suite 250, Addison. 404-8503.
The Lounge. 5460 W Lovers Ln. 350-7834.
Memphis. Quorum Plaza. 5000 Belt Line, Suite 500. 386-9934.
Metronome. 703 McKinney. 720-1300.
Mimis. 5111 Greenville Ave. 368-1994.
Netwerk. 5500 Greenville Ave. Suite 403. 361.9517.
Poor David’s Pub. 1924 Greenville Ave. 821-9891.
Randy’s. 15203 Knoll Trail. Addison. 907-2639.
Stan’s Blue Note. 2908 Greenville Ave. 824-9653.
Studebaker’s. NorthPark East, 8788 N Central Expwy. 696-2475.
2826. 2826 Elm St. 741.2826.
Video Bar. 2610 Elm St. 939-9113.
The Voodoo Bar. 302 N Market. 655-2627.
The nose says tequila, the tongue says terrific, the brain says “What is this stuff?” The name’s Monte Toca, claimed by its importers to be the first liqueur made from premium gold tequila and bottled in Mexico for export-primarily to tequila-thirsty Texans. The first few cases trickled across the border in time for the holiday season. Sipped straight, on the rocks, or in coffee, it’s a fine, warming answer to the after-dinner cordial question.