If your Christmas gift list Includes a die-hard foodle or two, here’s the perfect stocking stuffer-“Trucs of the Trade,” a 72-minute video featuring the culinary tricks of 48 world-renowned chefs and vintners. In all, 93 vary handy trucs (French for tricks) are demonstrated by the pros. $19.95. Call 1-800-448-2449 to order, or find it at Wal-denbooks. Proceeds benefit Share Our Strength, the International food industry charity for hunger relief.
THE CHEESE WHIZ
REAL PEOPLE “When I started allof this eight years ago, I was really onlymaking the mozzarella,” says PaulaLambert of her Mozzarella Company inthe heart of Deep Ellum. These days hertiny cheese factory churns out 25 differentvarieties. For the holidays, Lambert’scheese baskets are the perfect twist toChristmas gift-giving. Her number oneseller, the Cheese Lover’s Sampler, containsa hefty array of five cheeses: two versionsof mozzarella, a Texas goat cheese, andwedges of montasio and caciotta. All ofher cheeses are made by hand, contain noadditives or preservatives, and can eitherbe stored in the fridge (the fresh cheeseskeep up to two weeks) or frozen. Lambertwill ship your purchase anywhere in theU.S. if the order is placed before December19, and she delivers in town. Prices rangefrom $25 to $100. -Lucie Nelka
BAR TREND Coffee is the American antidote for morning; in fact, its effect has been appreciated more than its flavor. In other parts of the world, though, coffee is a meal, a ritual, a kind of human rumination, congenial or solitary. The graceful custom of drinking coffee for coffee’s sake is catching on here, with quite a few places to go for good java.
La Creme’s 1683: A spare, friendly spot, serving probably the best coffees in town, including Thai drip, filtered French, all kinds of cappuccino and espresso, and the crème de la creme-1683 Cappuccino-a concoction of cappuccino, crème de cacao, and whipped cream. 8220B Westchester Dr., Preston Center.
Dave’s Art Pawn Shop: Bohemian digs, superior brew. Cafe latte (espresso over steamed milk) with a piece of Exponential Chocolate Cake is Deep Ellum’s version of milk and cookies. 2544 Elm St.
Brazos: This Southwest bistro is happy to serve you just coffee; if you order the Cafe Libil (spiked with Kahlua and Bailey’s, and flamed with rum), the coffee will make you happy. 2100 Greenville Ave.
Nana’s Espresso: Nana’s is not much more than a portable bar in the West End Marketplace; plastic cups add to the temporary feeling, hut people-watching and a steaming cup of Chocolate Decadence will encourage you to hang around. -Mary Brown Malouf
Cosmopolitan Chef Stirs Up Coppell
ON THE ROAD In France, a fine chef often finds happiness and fame by opening his own little auberge in the provinces and cooking so divinely the world finds the way to his door. In Texas, that rarely happens. The ploy worked, though, for Caspar Stantic, who little more than a year ago traded international medals, awards, and city lights for his own little place on the prairie, and has been humming along with full houses ever since.
Strip-center site notwithstanding, Stantic and spouse have achieved real country-inn flavor via antiques, twining silk vines, and a glass-walled kitchen in which the Swiss-born, half-Hungarian chef labors to produce astonishingly cosmopolitan menus with a different cuisine each month. For example, October was German-Swiss month, feataring such yums as smoked pork loin and wild boar sausage on red cabbage and sauerkraut, with cranberries; fresh salmon in dill sauce with potato dumplings; or a dozen others possibly as stellar as those two we tried. Call ahead to find out the monthly cuisine of choice, and take your own wine or beer-the house furnishes crystal glasses. To get there, take I-635 west to Belt Line, then northtwo miles-you’ll emerge on Denton TapRoad. 150 S. Denton Tap Road, Coppell.393-5152. -Betty Cook
Listen, it’s all very well to think only of others during this generous season. But aren’t you entitled to a small moment of self-indulgent abandon? Spend it in utter bliss over a single wedge of to-die-for cheesecake.
Marna Chaplin (shown here) and her husband Jack serve an Italian-style winner that masks cream-cheese decadence with a haunt of Stilton, and complement the sublime result with a mini-glass Of port. $5.95. Chaplin’s, 1928 Greenville Ave.
Romano’s Cheesecake Company built its business on cheesecake and supplies half the haute places in town besides serving its own. Several flavors are featured daily, but the silken, airy plain original is a favorite $1.85. 3111 Monticello Ave.
Ruggeri’s has its own exclusive source
Italian Amaretto ofsurpassing smoothness. They occasionally vary the offeringwith raspberry orlemon versions. $3.75. 2911 Routh St.
Strictly Cheesecake at 8139 Forest serves nothing else, but what else would you need, with 50 flavors to choose from? Most people would settle for just one: a Turtle, they call it, laced with caramel and flung with pecans and chocolate chips on a cookie crust. $1.50.
Sweet Endings, Deep Ellum’s chic dessert and coffee corner, has trouble keeping enough of its Oreo chocolate cheesecake on hand to satisfy yearning patrons. Small wonder: the place steams a mean espresso, too, and the combination’ terrific. $3.95. 2901 Elm.
A Fashionable Retreat at NorthPark
PICCOLA CUCINA NorthPark has a new southern exposure-southern Europe, that is. And if this spritzy space on the townside of Barneys New York is a foretaste of franchise food of the future, our prospects for casual eating-out pleasure have taken a sunny turn for the better. Word is that the Dallas Piccola Cucina will spawn clones in keeping with other Barneys offshoots across the country. Whether that happens or not, the notion of partnering high-fashion store with happy hangout, while not all that new, has been irresistibly executed here by New York restaurateur Pino Luongo (Le Madri in Manhattan, Sapore di Mare in the Hamptons) and chef William Bolton, former sous chef of the Long Island restaurant.
The ambience here is decidedly uptown-umbrella-topped al fresco tables outside, crisp table linens inside, and intelligent service throughout.
The food has a Mediterranean point of view (Tuscan-Italian); the menu is a light-hearted sampler of graze-worthy salads, vegetables, and pizza variations, plus a quintet of carpaccio combinations, all beautifully presented on huge porcelain plates. The carpaccio we tried mated the thin-shaved raw tenderloin with petals of fine Parmesan, drizzled to order with olive oil-an altogether blissful union. A three-color salad of pearly Belgian endive, emerald arugula, and ruddy radicchio struck a perfect balance between the bitter lettuces and delicate vinaigrette dressing; another paired tender arugula leaves with crunchy-sweet matchsticks of fennel in what may have been the same flawless vinaigrette. Misto di terra was a lusty mélange of vegetables-mine included asparagus, beets, turnips, eggplant, and a rice-stuffed tomato-variously steamed, grilled, and roasted, served at room temperature. A bi-colored pizza, one half tanged with Gorgonzola, the other topped with tomato, basil, and mozzarella, was a crisp, thin-crusted delight. Focaccia al formaggio sandwiched the molten cheese between even thinner layers of crust-a Tuscan-styled quesadilla, if you will. Both were hand-shaped and baked in the stone oven that adds showbiz drama to the restaurant’s open cooking area.
We arrived too late on our first visit to try one of the day’s specials, which are apparently popular. We found out why on the second trip, when we snagged the last serving of Spiedini Capesante con Risotto di Spinaci. It was a chicken breast bathed in a symphonic sauce involving olives, celery, and mushrooms and bedded on a slowcooked spinach risotto that alone would have been worth the price of the meal. It’s a rare occasion when I can say this, but we found nothing to fault here and much to praise, with a setting and menu destined to make lingering little dinners and an out of the ordinaryshopping experience equal-opportunitydelights. 1030 NorthPark Center, Suite 330. 691-0488. Mon.-Sat. 9:30 a.m.-11p.m., Sun. 11-10. All credit cards. Moderate. -Betty Cook
A Café for Food Lovers
CAFE AMARETTO Twin canopies on the northern drive-through of The Crescent Court open onto an adjoining club and restaurant. The club, La Lune, is a darkish lair centered around a dance floor, with music played at an overpowering volume. Fortunately the noise does not penetrate into the dining spot, Cafe Amaretto. The café doesn’t quite live up to its billing as “romantic and elegant,” though-the stark black-and-white furnishings seem too bare to merit the first adjective and the sci-fi landscape paintings too gaudy for the second.
If the setting of Cafe Amaretto doesn’t live up to expectations, the food quite exceeds them. The menu is determinedly simple rather than ambitious, but each dish we sampled was executed with precision and sometimes even flair.
Service is both relaxed and thoroughly professional, and prices are downright reasonable for this tony neighborhood. The tiny list of appetizers boasts a sunny-tasting ceviche of bay scallops in a creamy vinaigrette and a thick French tomato soup almost like a hot gazpacho. The pasta special we tried was a salad of tortellini tossed with specks of smoked salmon.
Beef lovers could hardly do better than the tenderloin medallions bathed in a Hunter’s sauce with wine and quartered mushrooms. Southern Comfort chicken sounds as though it has been created with the tastes of good of boys in mind, though that sweetish cousin of bourbon has probably seldom before graced such an elegant dish of chicken breast sautéed with pecans. The five-ounce specimen of lobster tail featured in a special here was beautifully cooked and served with a sauce cardinale-its pink color derived from flaked salmon. In fact, salmon seemed to peep out from all corners of Cafe Amaretto’s menu, so we also ordered the sautéed salmon fillet, and its crusty surfaces and moist insides showed that the kitchen knows how to feature the fish as the star of the show as well as to cast it in accompanying roles. All the entrées come with a choice of a baked potato, plainly cooked Texas brown rice, or tasty pan-fried garlic potatoes. We would go with the garlic potatoes every time.
Two stunning chocolate desserts-a pecan torte (like pecan pie but with chocolate in the filling) and a moist, rich chocolate bourbon cake-make memorable endings to a meal here. Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney. 855-8855. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11-3; dinner Sun.-Thurs. 510, Fri. & Sat. 5-11. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.
SCURO Deep Ellum is a mixed bag, but the mix is mostly fashion and food these days. Art and music are secondary-folks flock downtown to see what everyone is wearing and to eat. Scuro, one of the newest entries, is a welcome addition to the roster of restaurants.
You’d think the niche would already have been filled-the informal menu of pastas and pizzas is such a natural for the area. One side of the list features pizza-single-serving pies made on focaccia and thick-crusted square ones serving two or three people. The selection of entrées includes several pastas-meat tortellini, capellini primavera, fettuccine-as well as veal chops and chicken. So you can settle in for a full meal, appetizer to dessert, or just snack on pizza and salad.
We tried it both ways; on our first visit just sticking with pizza and salad, then returning for a more leisurely meal. “Angelo’s” pizza, a thick-crusted one, was excellent, the bread thick but crispy and light, tomato sauce tangy and herbal, with just enough molten mozzarella, beefed up with disks of pepperoni and slices of good Italian sausage. The individual pies were outstanding. My favorite was a combination of fresh goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes on the crackly focaccia, but it was rivaled by a pie layering just-cooked chopped fresh tomatoes, strings of sweet red onion, and black olives.
We were as pleased with the salads on oursecond visit, this time augmenting themwith hot, Parmesan-dusted focaccia bread;pastas and entrées, however, were not asconsistently pleasing as the pizzas. A roastchicken half had a beautifully golden, crispskin, tasting of garlic and rosemary, but themeat was slightly dry and lacked flavor.Angel hair pasta primavera held plenty ofcrunchy vegetables and was nicely cooked,but was bland, as was fettuccine in creamsauce. The thick veal chop, though, was tenderand juicy and was lapped with a deep, deliciousbrown sauce-the most ambitious dish onthe menu, it was a surprise winner. 2713 Elm St. 741-0111. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2; dinner Mon.-Thurs. 6-11, Fri. & Sat. 6-midnight,Sun. 6-10:30. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate. -Mary Brown Malouf
A Classic New Arrival
WELLINGTON Mark Fatemian will tell you his newest restaurant is a steakhouse. Don’t you believe him-a glance at the menu reveals that, no matter how prime the beef, steaks represent less than a third of the listings. The rest-as at Les Saisons and Ernie’s, Fatemian’s other two establishments-are as classically Continental as food ever gets in this part of the country. Some perverse mischief prompted me to order the quintessential traditional pre-nouvelle Dallas dine-out extravagance: shrimp cocktail, Caesar salad, beef Wellington, and chocolate soufflé. I confess, it was lovely. The shrimp were huge, briny-fresh treasures, fanned on radicchio beside spiced dipping sauce. The Caesar was briskly but lovingly built before our eyes. Beef Wellington was an individual domed oval of flawless pastry that flaked at a touch to reveal spicy paté” atop fork-tender tenderloin. The soufflé was neither dry nor soupy, but meltingly moist, its fudge sauce intense.
My companions made do with more mundane starters-chicken-vegetable soup was an innocent broth, nicely seasoned; a house salad of mixed greens held only leaf lettuce and ripe cherry tomato. But their entrées were outstanding, a swordfish cut grilled to juicy perfection in Béarnaisesauce, veal sweetbreads crisp-edged anddelicate in a fine three-peppercorn saucebraced with brandy. Cherries jubilee was asplendid flamed production; crème caramelwas merely pleasant; espresso was as boldand black as it should have been. 2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11-2; dinner nightly 6-10. All credit cards. Expensive. -B.C.
Thai With an Eastern Accent
PAILIN The attraction here is the availability of dishes from eastern Thailand-the first time an area restaurant has attempted to give us specialties from a local region in Southeast Asia. Most of the eastern Thai dishes seem to be salad-like, marinated in vinegar. The Nuer Nam Tok- grilled sliced beef, onion, and ground chilies mixed with lime juice and spicy chili sauce-is constructed similarly to dishes at other Thai restaurants, but the flavor did indeed turn out to be different. Part of the secret, I suspect, is the ground red chilies- other similar dishes use sliced fresh jalapenos. Other sour eastern Thai specialties are Som Tum (a salad of shredded green papayas) and Nam Sod (ground pork with noodles and vegetables). The deep-fried sliced beef, with big strips of fat and chewy in the extreme, will appeal only to the most adventurous.
Other categories on the Pailin menu are quite variable in quality. The Pailin chicken wings-deep fried and then doused with a sticky caramel sauce-and the very hearty wonton soup both make excellent impressions. The Pailin Diamond Roast Duck, though, proves to be very fatty chunks of poultry tossed with canned asparagus and black mushrooms. Chinese dishes like beef with broccoli are also undistinguished. 2012 E. Belt Line, Carrollton. 416-4061. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon.-Sat. 5:30-10. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.
FISHMONGER’S This isn’t a fishmonger in the traditional sense-there is no retail market at this new location, formerly Hard Shell Cafe. But the lively bar and restaurant serves up a well-rounded selection of seafood, most of it well prepared and well priced. Focus on the fish, though-it’s clear that the kitchen pays little attention to anything else.
We started with crab claws, probably frozen, judging from their texture, but swimming in garlicky butter; my daredevil companion downed a dozen raw oysters,which he said were firm and briny. Over-chilled salads of iceberg and pallid tomatoeswere unimpressive, but a cup of gumbo wasfull of crab and fish flakes; the broth wastasty but mild. Generally, the grilled andbroiled entrees were more satisfactory thanthe fried food-a surprise, since fryingseems to be the forte of most casual seafoodhouses. Grilled salmon was a thick piece offillet, just cooked through so it was firm andjuicy; accompanying corn could have comefrom the State Fair, it was so waterloggedand sticky. New potatoes were better, simplysteamed. Redfish Pontchartrain was a morecomplicated preparation of broiled fishtopped with sautéed shrimp and crab meat,but it came off well, all the componentsnicely cooked and complementary. On asecond visit, we didn’t fare as well: friedshrimp were hard, dry, and tasteless, friedoyster loaf held over-fried shellfish, and thebread was puffy and bland. 6403 Greenville Ave. 987-3477. Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11-11. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -M.B.M.
A Taste of Texas
MI AMIGO’S Personable and outgoing Phil Magellan has been in the restaurant business for more than 20 years, but Mi Amigo’s is the first one he has started on his own. Even in its early weeks it attracted tots of diners in this neighborhood, which is not blessed with enough good places to eat. The mostly tasty Tex-Mex offerings and the warm welcome explain the instant popularity, but one of the main ideas behind the venture-to offer a wide selection of more authentic specialties-doesn’t quite come off.
Magellan calls his food “Texican,” and even that quintessential dish of the real Mexico, black bean soup, has a decidedly Texan taste-you almost think you got a dish of San Antonio-style chili by mistake. Tex-Mex standards like nachos and cheese enchiladas can be excellent, if a mite salty, here. One favorite, crispy tacos, has a novel twist: the corn tortillas the red shells are prepared from have chili powder and paprika in their dough.
But the items we sampled off the long list of more authentic offerings are more variable. The filling of the beef chile relleno is outstanding, with its flavorings of raisins, pecans, and almond slivers; the poblano pepper hardly seemed battered at all.Magellan says that he often compromises hisoriginal recipes to try to achieve commercialsuccess with American customers.Sometimes the result is blandness, as withthe guisado de res-the Mexican beef stewwith potatoes. Other times the resultingrecipe just doesn’t work at all. The red snapper enbuelto, for instance, is a fishfillet rolled around a stuffing of breadcrumbs and vegetables, then wrapped withbacon and a cabbage leaf and grilled overmesquite. I found the combinationunappealing-the strong flavors of smokedbacon, mesquite smoke, cabbage, and fishbattled each other rather than blended. 6300 Skillman, Suite 160, at Abrams. 341-8155. Sun.-Thur. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. & Sat. 11-11. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate. -W.L.T.
Nothing Wild About the Wildcat Cafe
WILDCAT CAFE Classic American: remember that phrase. You’ll be seeing it a lot, self-(and sometimes mis-)applied by restaurants seeking to define menus that wander across standard culinary boundaries. In the case of Wildcat Cafe, the lofty term appears to speak more of hopeful fantasy than fact-owner/chef J. Rod Pannek’s lunch-only bill of fare would fit handily in the home-cooking category. And rather modestly at that, judging from our two review visits.
The offhand little menu’s offerings doreflect high aspirations in a couple ofinstances-the only meatless salad listed, akitchen-dressed Caesar, was acceptable. Asesame catfish entrée was not: two of theplate’s four deep-fried fillet strips had anoff-taste, and their pinkish on-the-side”Cajun remoulade” sauce could have passedanywhere for Thousand Island dressing.Other entrées-home-style standards, everyone-were more successful. A grilledchicken breast was saved from dryness by itstopping of sautéed mixed vegetables.Chicken-fried steak was a huge, tenderizedcutlet, crisply battered under good creamgravy. Three-meat loaf was a nice blend ofpork, beef, and veal, sausage seasoningdominant, in a pleasant tomato sauce thatmay or may not have been fortified with redwine, as described. Servings were generousfor the price ($5.95 each), which alsoincluded a heaping tangle of skinnyFrench fries (soggy the first visit, crisp thesecond) and a sautéed vegetable. One Energy Square, 4925 Greenville Ave., at University, Suite 201. 361-9302. Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11-2. No credit cards. Inexpensive. -B.C
D Revisits Blue Ribbon B.B.Q. We found nothing tocomplain about here beyond the beef ribs, which were morechewy than lender-perhaps a little underdone. Chicken wassucculent, though, as were lean ham. beef, and sausage,and the sauce was super, tan and lightly peppery, fork andbeans tasted canned, but potato salad was a fine, well-seasoned version, cole slaw had crunchy substance, and cornon the cob by some miracle escaped steam-table gumminess.Regulars wait in line for the big, baked stuffed potatoes thatare served only evenings; we were too early, but managedto find comfort in a wedge of pecan pie that was every bit asgood as homemade. 316 Hillside Village, Mockingbird at Abrams. 823-5524. Inexpensive. -B.C.
D Revisits York St. This tiny house beckons its casuallydressed, thirtysomething crowds with masses of begoniasand other blossoms outside and cunningly sculpted terra cot-ta planters inside. The cooking tends toward intense saucesreplete with exotic mushrooms, imported, fortified wines,and whole-leaf fresh herbs. Mostly the primary ingredientsare well handled, as in a sauté of wild mushrooms withSpanish sherry, fresh basil cream, and angel hair pasta-the tiny noodles, so difficult to keep toothsome, wereperfectly al dente. Delicious seafood options on the ever-changing menu might include an original version of oystersRockefeller, with squares of crisp bacon, or a fist-sizedsalmon steak seared on the outside and moist within, halfcovered with a whole-grain mustard and Chablis beurreblanc. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968 Expensive. -W.L.T.
D Revisits Lombardi’s-Travis Walk. Still a winner for Dallas Italian, this link in the Lombardi’s chain combines the quiet intimacy of the Trattoria with the forward feelof 311; the atmosphere is chic and civilized, and the servicewas as gracious as it should be. Out of curiosity. I tried theslightly cooked variation of carpaccio. topped with artichokes; it was excellent, though I still prefer the texture ofthe raw beef. The rest of our meal was equally excellent: ripetomatoes layered with milky fresh mozzarella in a salad thatshould be out of season: an enormous serving of delicatelycooked angel hair pasta and fresh vegetables; juicy veal ina meaty mushroom sauce. 4514 Travis Walk. 521-1480. Moderate. -M.B.M.
D Revisits Montefiascone. There are no other contenders on this rather dreary strip of Harry Hines; it’s a surprise to walk in and find a civilized, white-linen dining room in this land of drive-ins and beer joints. This outpost may not measure up to the main colony of Italian restaurants in Dallas, but the effort to please is evident: the service, backed up by the attentive owner, was careful, and the food hit some highs as well as lows. Veal scallopini seem to have been tenderized rather lhan pounded, and the special mussels marinara were slightly fishy, but pasta side dishes were well cooked, and the Bolognese sauce was sweet and rich as homemade. 10976 Harry Hines. 350-2227. Moderate.
D Revisits Kobe Steaks. Though i am not amongthem, there are many who can’t resist this combination of”dinner and a show.” The dinner does provide plenty offlash, dash, and culinary pyrotechnics performed by theknife-toting chefs. But more to the point, the food producedby these Bamum & Bailey techniques is good and plentiful:soy- and garlic-seasoned beef or chicken, sizzling griddledshrimp, sliced into bites before your very eyes, mounds ofsprouts, mushrooms, zucchini, and onions, quickly cookedwith no tricks but the knifework and served immediately-nowait for the plate under lamps. 5000 Belt Line. 934-8150.Moderate -M.B.M.
D Revisits Mercado Juarez. Most folks seem to choose either traditional Tex-Mex specialties or the mes-quite-roasted combinations here-and both are satisfying. The Tex-Mex comes in single orders or on platters with fancy names like “Chihuahua Plate”; a beef enchilada with redchili sauce, a chicken enchilada with sour cream sauce,refried beans, and rice. The mesquite-roasted meats areserved on their own miniature grills-and accompanied byguacamole, sour cream, pico de gallo, and soupy Mexicanbeans. But the other specialties are worth investigating, too.1 find the T-bone al chipotle hard to resist-a sizable pieceof bone-in steak, topped with a dark sauce of roasted chiliesand melted Monterey Jack cheese 4050 Belt line. Addison.458-2145, Inexpensive to moderate. -W.LT.
D Revisits Ricardo’s. Live music, an unhackneyed color scheme of plums and grays, and thoroughly professionalservers contribute to the uptown feeling here. For those whohave something to celebrate, the Fiesta botanas begin theparty with miniature chimichangas and flautas stuffed withshredded beef to dip in little cups of chili con queso anda guacamole-sour cream sauce. The platter is prettilydecorated with chopped jalaperios and black olive rings.Thinly pounded carne asada (a Mexican steak) stands outas a main course over fajitas with no grilled peppers, accompanied by a pico de gallo without cilantro. 17610 Midway, at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Moderate. -W.L.T.
D Revisits The Bronx. When owner Jess Gilbert, who had sold the place, took it back, he elected to sell his successful Greenville Avenue hangout. Spatz. and combine thekitchen talents of both restaurants in the Oak Lawn location.Result: the fare at the longtime burger-and-home cookingfavorite, always pleasant, now positively scintillates. Astarter quesadilla contained chicken, spinach, spicy accents,and Monterey Jack cheese between skin-thin whole wheattortillas. Black bean soup, loaded with vegetable goodies,needed only a pico de gallo dollop to spark its seasonings:mushroom barley in chicken broth needed nothing at all.Baked manicotti was wonderfully light, its ricotta-sausagefilling divinely sauced with fresh-tomato marinara undersubtle sage cream. Baked orange roughy rose above thehomely fish’s usual ordinariness in a crisp cilantro. garlic,and Parmesan breading, topped with lime-zipped avocadoon lemon-garlic pasta ribbons. 3835 Cedar Springs.521-5821. Inexpensive to moderate. -B.C.
D Revisits City Cafe. I had never known that City Cafe boasts a comfortable upstairs dining room as well as the clubby street-level space surrounding its open kitchen-both were jumping the night of our weekend visit. The obligatory fresh tomato soup (I can never pass it up) was scaldingly hot and fresh as ever, though creamier than I remembered. A chive crèpe turned out to be two crepes, each loaded with thick slices of house-smoked salmon in dill cream-exquisite, but loo much and loo rich for an appetizer. The absolutely perfect starrer, we agreed, was a warm cabbagesalad tossed with Roquefort cheese and peppered bacon-utterly wonderful. Rosy medallions of lamb followed itflawlessly, seared in Madeira wine sauce. Roasted bob-whitequail were choice in creamy tomatillo sauce. A fresh troutspecial was beautifully split and boned, if slightly overcooked. The Park Cities regulars, though, were having a finetime, and so did we. 5757 W. Lovers Lane. 351-2233.Moderate. -B.C.
D Revisits Malibu Cafe. I’ve had and loved Brie cheese baked, broiled, fried, and in soups, but I’ve never tasted better than chef John Lopoppolo’s grilled version here-a mini-wheel of delicate Danish, bulging voluptuously from its her bed, oiled skin. Billed as an appetizer, the serving is main-dish ample-but then, so was our visit’s other first course, a tower of eggplant slices breaded, sautéed with roasted red bell peppers, and layered with mozzarella and fontina cheeses. After such star starters, few entrees could have intrigued us. Ours did: scallops and shrimp en brochette was succulent, its bed of rice spiked with sun-dried tomato and basil sauce a lively revelation; pork loin rounds were splendidly herbed and fork-tender in a sunny Zinfandel wine sauce. 4311 Oak Lawn. 521-2233. Moderate. -B.C.
D Revisits Sala Thai. Satay-either chicken or pork grilled on a skewer and served with a curried peanutsauce-makes a good starter in this quiet, neatly decoratedUpper Greenville Avenue spot. Sala Thai’s menu has abewildering array of main dish choices, but it’s difficult toselect one that is not peppery hot. You expect the Thai basiland shrimp with fresh chilies to be incendiary, but so is thechicken with cashew nuts and pineapple in a brown sauce(the kicker is those tiny brick-colored pods of dried peppers). The dish called “Chicken Noodle” makes a mildcontrast-the combo of wide noodles and white chickenspells comfort food in any cuisine. 4503 Greenville Ave.696-3210. Moderate, -W.L.T.
RESTAURANTS D RECOMMENDS
Safi’s Afghan Cuisine. 14849 Inwood. Addison. 991-9292. Moderate.
Anderson’s Barbecue House. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. (across from Parkland). 6.10-0735. Inexpensive.
Austin’s Barbecue. 2321 W. Illinois. 337-2242. Inexpensive.
Baker’s Ribs. 2724 Commerce. 748-5433. Inexpensive.
Bob Willy’s. 1933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bubba’s Texas Bar-B-Q. 4208 Live Oak. 821-7062. Inexpensive.
Gene’s Stone Pit Bar B Que. 3002 Canton. 939-9419. Inexpensive.
Peggy Sue BBQ. 6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. Inexpensive.
Riscky’s Barbeque. 1701 N. Market. Suite 104. 742-7001. Inexpensive to moderate.
Roscoe’s Easy Way. 5420 Lemmon Ave. 528-8459. Inexpensive.
Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Inexpensive.
Jennivine. 3605 McKinney Ave. 528-6010 Moderate to expensive.
Lancashire Room. 127 ￡. Main St.. Lancaster. 218-9215. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ball’s Hamburgers. 3404 Rankin in Snider Plaza. 373-1717. Inexpensive.
Cardinal Puff’s. 4615 Greenville Ave. 369-1969. Inexpensive.
Chip’s. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. Northwest Hwy.. Suite 101. 350-8751. Inexpensive.
Club Schmitz. 9661 Demon Dr. 902-7990. Inexpensive. 8.0. 2800 Routh St. 979-0880. Inexpensive.
Hard Rock Cafe. 2601 McKinney Ave. 855-0007. Moderate.
Prince of Hamburgers. 5200 Lemtnon Ave. 526-9081. Inexpensive.
Purdy’s. 4812 Bell Line, Addison. 960-2494. 1403 E. Campbell. Suite 101. Richardson. 480-0288. 2200 Walnut Hill at Story Lane. 255-6447. Inexpensive.
Sneakers Grille and Bar. 9247 Skillman. 343-1125. Inexpensive to moderate.
Snuffer’s. 3526 Greenville Ave. 826-6850. 14910 Midway. Addison. 991-8811. Inexpensive.
Texas Hamburgers. 1606 Market Center Blvd. 747-2222. Inexpensive.
Arcadia Bar & Grill. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Inexpensive
Atchafalaya River Cafe. 4440 Belt Line. Addison. 960-6878. Moderate.
Cafe Margaux. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. Moderate.
Copefand’s. 4544 McKinney Ave. 522-9170. Inexpensiveto moderate.
Crescent City Cafe. 2730 Commerce. 745-1900. lnexpensive.
Dodie’s Seafood Cafe. 2129 Greenville Ave. 821-8890.Inexpensive.
Louisiana Purchase. 2901 N. Central Expwy. at Parker Road. Piano. 423-0533- Inexpensive to moderate.
Nate’s Seafood and Steakhouse. 14951 Midway Rd., Addison. 701-9622. Moderate.
The Pontchartrain. 13444 Preston Road. 385-1522. Inexpensive to moderate.
August Moon. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. 2300 N Central Expwy.. Piano. 881-0071. Moderate.
Beijing Grill. 2200 Cedar Springs in The Crescent. Suite 148. 871-6868. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Panda. 7979 Inwood. Suite 121. 902-9500. Moderate.
Cathy’s Wok. 4010 W. 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Inexpensive.
Canton. 400 N. Greenville Ave.. Suite 25. Richardson. 238-1863. Inexpensive.
Chef Wang. 9330 N. Central Expwy.. United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. Moderate to expensive.
Chu’s Restaurant. 15080 Beltway. Addison. 387-1776. Moderate.
Crystal Pagoda. 4516 McKinney Ave. 526-3355. Moderate.
First Chinese B-B-Q. 111 S. Greenville Ave.. Richardson. 680-8216. Inexpensive.
Hong Kong Royale. 221 W. Polk. Richardson. 238-8888. Moderate to expensive.
May Dragon. 4848 Bell Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Moderate.
Restaurant Jasmine. 4002 Belt Line. Suite 200. Addison. 991-6867. Moderate.
Stix Asian Grill. 3827 Lemmon Ave. 522-4056 Inexpensive.
Szechwan Pavilion. 8411 Preston. 368-4303. 1152 N.Buckner. Suite 128. Casa Linda Plaza. 321-7599. Inexpensiveto moderate.
Taiwan Restaurant. 4980 Belt Line. Addison. 387-2333. 6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. Moderate.
Tasty China. 3514-A W. Walnut, Garland. 276-1999. Inexpensive.
Tong’s. 11661 Preston. Suite 143. 361-6588. Moderate.
Tong’s House. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858. Moderate.
Uncle Tai’s. 13350 Dallas Parkway in the Galleria. 934-9998. Expensive.
Dallul. 2515 Inwood. 353-0804. Inexpensive to moderate.
River Nile. 7001 Fair Oaks. 363-1128. Inexpensive to moderate.
Addison Cafe. 5290 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8824. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Le Jardin. 4900 McKinney Ave. 526-0570. Moderate to expensive.
Chez Gerard. 4444 McKinney Ave. 522-6865 Moderate.
Clair de Lune. 5934 Royal Lane, Suite 120. 987-2028. Moderate to expensive.
Epicure Highland Park. 69 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 520-8501. Moderate to expensive.
Ernie’s. 5100 Belt Line, Suite 502. 233-8855. Moderate to expensive.
Ewaid’s. Stoneleigh Hotel. 2927 Maple Ave. at Wolf. 871-2523. Expensive.
The French Room. The Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Expensive.
The Grape. 2808 Greenville Ave. 828-1981. Moderate.
La Madeleine. 3072 W. Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. NorthPark Mall. 696-2398. Inexpensive.
L’Ancestral. 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Moderate.
Le Brussels. 6615 Snider Plaza. 739-1927. Moderate.
L’Entrecote. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Very expensive.
Les Saisons. 165 Turtle Creek Village. 528-1102. Expensive.
The Old Warsaw. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Very expensive.
Reynier’s French Bakery. 434 Spanish Village. Arapaho at Coit. 387-9063. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Riviera. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Very expensive.
St. Martin’s. 3020 Greenville Ave. 826-0940. Moderate to expensive.
Watel’s. 1923 McKinney Ave. 720-0323. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Athenee. 5365 Spring valley at Montfort, Suite 150, 239-8060. Moderate.
Belvedere. 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Expensive.
Bohemia. 2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Moderate.
The Chimney. 9739 N. Central Expwy. 369-6466. Expensive.
Franki’s Li’I Europe. 362 Casa Linda Plaza. 320-0426. 2515 McKinney Ave. 953-0426. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hofstetter’s. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kuby’s Sausage House Inc. 6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. 3121 Ross Ave. 821-3121. Inexpensive.
Athens Cafe. 5290 Belt Line. Suite 118. Addison. 991-9185. Inexpensive to moderate.
Augustus. 15375 Addison Rd.. Addison. 239-8105. Expensive.
Goldfinger. 2905 Webb Chapel Extension. 350-6983. Moderate to expensive.
Kostas Restaurant and Taverna. 2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Moderate.
Little Gus’. 1916 Greenville Ave. 826-4910. Inexpensive.
Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant. 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. Moderate to expensive.
Bishop Arts Cafe. 316 W. Seventh St. 943-3565. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Blue Onion Restaurant. 221 W Parker Rd., Suite 527. Piano. 424-2114. Inexpensive.
Celebration. 4503 W. Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Moderate.
Fox Hunt Pub & Grill. Manor House, 1222 Commerceat Griffin. 748-6686. Inexpensive to moderate.
Good Eats Cafe. 3531 Oak Lawn. 522-3287. 6950 Greenville Ave. 691-3287. 702 Ross. 744-3287. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria. 4611 Cole. 526-3801. 300 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-3663. Lincoln Plaza. Second Floor, 500 N. Akard. 740-2400. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Pharmacy. 3229 Knox. 521-2126. Inexpensive.
Mama’s Daughter’s Diner. 2014 Irving Blvd. 742-8646. Inexpensive.
The Mecca. 10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Inexpensive.
Rosemarle’s. 1411 N. Zang. 946-4142. Inexpensive.
Theo’s Diner. 111 S. Hall. 747-6936. Inexpensive.
Tolbert’s. One Dallas Center, 350 N. St. Paul & Bryan.953 1353. 1800 N. Marker 969-0310. Inexpensive.
Vice Versa. 6065 Sherry Ln. 691-2976 Inexpensive.
Akbar. 2115 Promenade Center, Richardson. 235-0260. Inexpensive (lunch) to moderate (dinner).
Ashoka. 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Moderate.
India Palace Restaurant. 12817 Preston Rd., Suite 105. 392-0190. Moderate to expensive.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 401 N. Central Expwy., Suite 300, Richardson. 231-5556. Inexpensive to moderate.
Kebab-N-Kurry. 2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Inexpensive.
Mumtaz. The Atrium, 3101 N. Fitzhugh at McKinney Ave., Suite 101. 520-2400. Inexpensive to moderate.
Shalimar. 35 Richardson Heights Village. Central at Belt Line. Richardson. 437-2858. Inexpensive.
Taj Mahal Indian Restaurant. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N. Central Expwy., Suite 179. 692-0535. Moderat
Acapella Cafe. 2508 Maple. 871-2262. Moderate.
Alessio’s. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Moderate to expensive.
Alfonso’s. 328 Casa Linda Plaza. 327-7777. Inexpensive to moderate.
Avanti. 2720 McKinney Ave. 8714955. Moderate (lunch) to expensive (dinner).
Cafe Italia. 5000 Maple. 521-0700. Inexpensive to moderate.
Caffe Paparazzi. 8989 Forest Ln., Suite 136 644-1323. Moderate.
Capriccio. 2616 Maple. 871-2004. Expensive.
Chianti. 9526 Webb Chapel. 350-7456. Moderate.
Fausto’s. 300 Reunion Blvd., in the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Moderate.
Flip’s Wine Bar & Trattoria. 1520 Greenville Ave. 824-9944. Moderate.
II Sorrento. 8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759. Moderate to expensive.
Joey Tomato’s Atlantic City. 3232 McKinney Ave. 754-0380. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Tosca. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Expensive.
La Trattoria Lombardi. 2916 N. Hall. 954-0803. Moderate.
Lombardi’s Expresso. 6135 Luther Ln. 361-6984. Inexpensive to moderate.
Massimo da Milano. 5519 W. Lovers Ln. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 901 Main Place in the NCNB Building. 761-6350. Inexpensive to moderate.
MoMo’s Italian Specialties. 9191 Forest Ln.. Suite A2. 234-6800. 2704 Elm St. 7484222. 3309 N. Central Expwy., Suite 37. Piano. 423-1066. Moderate.
MoMo’s Pasta. 3312 Knox. 521-3009. Inexpensive.
Nero’s Italian. 2104 Greenville Ave. 826-6376. Moderate.
Pasticcio’s. 4527 Travis St. 528-6696. Moderate.
Patrizio. 25 Highland Park Village. 522-7878. Inexpensive.
Pizzeria Uno. 2811 McKinney Ave. 855-0011. 4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pomodoro. 2520 Cedar Springs. 871-1924. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ristorante Savino. 2929 N. Henderson. 826-7804. Moderate to expensive.
Rodolfo’s. 5956 Royal Ln. (at Preston). 368-5039. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ruggeri’s. 2911 Routh St. 871-7377. Moderate.
Sfuzzi. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. Moderate.
Spaghetti Inn-Mike’s Italian Restaurant. 6465 E Mockingbird, Suite 391. 827-7035. Moderate.
311 Lombardi’s. 311 Market at Ross. 747-0322. Moderate to expensive.
FuJi-Ya. 13050 Coit. 690-8396. Inexpensive to moderate.
Hana Japanese Restaurant. 14865 Inwood. 991-8322. Moderate.
Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant. 3850 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 510, 350-1110. Inexpensive.
Mr. Sushi. 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Moderate.
Nakamoto Japanese Cuisine. Ruisseau Village. Suite 360. 3309 N. Central Expwy.. Piano. 881-0328. Moderate.
Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 7402 Greenville Ave., Suite 101. 361-9282. Moderate to expensive.
Shinano Japanese Restaurant. 8830 Spring Valley. 644-1436. Moderate.
Shogun of Japan. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. 3455 N. Belt Line, Irving. 594-6911. Moderate.
Sushi On McKinney. 4500 McKinney Ave. 521-0969. Moderate.
Kobawoo. 3109 Inwood Rd., 351-6922. Moderate.
Koreana. Highpoint Village, 12101 Greenville Ave., #107. 437-1211. Inexpensive to moderate.
The Korean Rib. 3205 Alma Drive. Suite 401. Plano. 423-8676.
Adelmo’s. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. Moderate to expensive.
Monte Carlo. 15201 Dallas Pkwy.. in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. 386-6000. Expensive.
Scampl’s. 2704 Worthington. 220-2215. Moderate to expensive.
Anita’s Mexican Cantina. 7324 Gaston, #319. 328-9639. Inexpensive.
Blue Goose Cantina. 2905 Greenville Ave. 823-6786. Moderate.
Cantina Laredo. 4546 Belt Line, Addison. 458-0962. 812! Walnut Hill. 987-9192. Moderate.
Casa Dominguez. 2127 Cedar Springs. 7424945. Inexpensive to moderate.
Casa Rosa. 165 Inwood Village. 350-5227. Moderate.
Desperados. 4818 Greenville Ave. and University. 363-1850. Inexpensive to moderate.
El Ranchito. 610 W. Jefferson. 9464238. Inexpensive to Moderate.
Flamingo Joe’s. 2712 Main at Crowdus. 748-6065. Inexpensive to moderate.
Garmo’s y Lito’s. 2847 N. Henderson. 821-8006. Inexpensive to moderate.
Gloria’s Restaurant. 600 W. Davis. 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. Inexpensive.
Grandpa Tony’s. 300 W. Mockingbird. 357-1531. Inexpensive.
Javier’s. 4912 Cole. 521-4211. Expensive.
J. Pope’s Restaurant and Cantina. Suite 115, in the Quadrangle. 871-0366. Inexpensive to moderate.
Las Cazuelas. 3943 Columbia Ave. 827-1889. Inexpensive.
La Suprama Tortillerla. 7630 Military Pkwy. (at Loop 12). 388-1244. Inexpensive.
Loma Luna Cafe. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. 8201 Preston Rd., Suite 100. 691-1552. Moderate.
Los Arcos. 3308 Ross Ave. 826-5020. Moderate.
Mario & Alberto. LBJ Freeway at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita. 4514 Travis, Suite 318. 521-0721. 221 W. Parker. Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Moderate.
The Martinez Cafe. 3011 Routh St. 855-0240. 1900 Preston. Piano. 964-7898. Inexpensive.
Matt’s Rancho Martinez Mexican Restaurant. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mia’s. 4322 Lemmon Ave. 526-1020. Inexpensive.
Pappasito’s Cantina. 723 S. Central Expwy.. Richardson. 480-8595. Moderate.
Primo’s. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. Inexpensive.
Uncle Julio’s. 7557 Greenville Ave. 987-9900. 4125 Lemmon Ave. 520-6620. Moderate.
ZuZu. 6423 Hillcrest. 521-4456. 2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140. 5940 Royal Lane. 739-1312. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Promenade Center. 15400 Coil. Suite 2500. Richardson. 669-2112. Moderate.
Bluebonnet Cafe & Dell. 2218 Greenville Ave. 828-0052. Inexpensive.
Dream Cafe. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St.. Suite 170.954-0486. Inexpensive.
Phil’s Cafe. 2815 Elm. 761-8400 Inexpensive.
Actuelle. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh St., Suite 125. 855-0440. Expensive.
Aristocrat Hotel Bar & Grill. 1933 Main. 741-7700. Moderate to expensive.
Beau Nash. In the Hotel Crescent Court. 871-3200. Expensive.
The Buffalo Club. 2723 Elm St. 748-2400. Moderate to expensive.
By George! 2900 Greenville Ave. 821-1538. Moderate.
Chaplin’s. 1928 Greenville Ave. 823-3300. Moderate to expensive.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
Dakota’s. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. Moderate to expensive.
Deep Ellum Cafe. 2704 Elm St. 741-9012. Moderate to expensive.
Dover’s Grille. Doubletree Hotel at Park West. 1590 LBJ. 869-4300. Moderate to expensive.
Gershwin’s. 8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville Ave. 373-7171. Moderate to expensive.
Huntington’s. Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Expensive.
Kathleen’s Art Cafe. 4424 Lovers Lane. (between the Tollway and Douglas). 691-2355. Moderate to expensive.
Lakewood Plaza Grill. 6334 La Vista. 826-5226. Inexpensive to moderate.
Landmark Cafe. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. Expensive.
Laurels. Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit Drive, off Coil neat LBJ Freeway. 385-3000. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Very expensive.
Parigi. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Moderate to expensive.
The Promenade. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2100. Moderate to expensive.
Pyramid Room. 1717 N. A kard in the Fairmont Hotel. 720-5249. Expensive.
Quadrangle Grille. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh Si., Suite 180. 979-9022. Moderate.
Routh Street Cafe, 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. Very expensive.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Zeke’s Grill. 2615 Commerce St. 748-6354. Inexpensive to moderate.
Atlantic Cafe Too! 14866 Montfort. Addison. 960-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Aw Shucks. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. Inexpensive.
Bay Street. 5348 Belt Line. Addison. 934-8501. Moderate.
Cafe America. 4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Expensive.
Cafe Pacific. 24 Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. Expensive.
Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Cafe. 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm, Suite 600, Piano. 423-3699. Moderate.
Hampton’s. Preston Center. 8411 Preston, Berkshire and Northwest Highway. 739-3474. Moderate.
Louie’s Backyard. 2221 Abrams at Belmont. 823-2910. Inexpensive.
Newport’s Seafood. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery. 954-0220. Expensive.
Oyster’s. 4580 Belt Line. Addison. 386-0122 or 387-4231. Inexpensive to moderate.
Red’s Seafood. 7402 Greenville Ave. 363-3896. Moderate.
Rusty Pelican. 14655 N. Dallas Pkwy. 980-8950. Expensive.
S&D Oyster Company. 2701 McKinney Ave. 880-0111. Inexpensive to moderate.
Scott’s-A Seafood House. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. Moderate.
Sea Shells & Stuff. 9205 Skillman. Suite 110. 348-3082. Moderate.
Yoli’s. 9220 Skillman, Suite 124. 341-3533- Inexpensive.
Baby Routh. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. Moderate to expensive.
Blue Mesa Grill. 5100 Bell Line, Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. Inexpensive to moderate.
Brazos. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501. Moderate.
Cisco Grill. 6630 Snider Plaza. 363-9506. Inexpensive.
Sam’s Cafe. 100 Crescent Court. 855-2233. Moderate to expensive.
Cafe Madrid. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. Inexpensive to moderate.
Arthur’s. 8350 N. Central Expwy., Campbell Centre, Suite M 1000. 361-8833. Expensive.
The Butcher Shop Steakhouse. 303 Munger. off Lamar. 720-1032. Moderate.
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle. 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. Expensive.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib. 3008 Maple Ave. 521-7777. Moderate to expensive.
Old San Francisco Steakhouse. 10965 Composite. 357-0484. Moderate to expensive.
The Palm Restaurant. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Very expensive.
Al’s New York Style Dell. 3301 Oak Lawn, Suite A (entrance on Hall). 522-3354. Inexpensive.
Another Roadside Attraction. 2712 Elm St 761-9135. Inexpensive.
Basel Emporium. 7522 Campbell Rd. 980-1444. Inexpensive.
Bagelstein’s. Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104Spring Valley. 234-3787. Inexpensive to moderate.
City Market. 2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center. Suite200. 979-2696. Inexpensive.
Crescent Gourmet. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. Inexpensive to moderate.
Deli News. 15775 Hillcrest. Suite 502. 392-3354. Inexpensive.
The Good Life Catering Co. 6340 Gaston Ave. 821-3194. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070- Moderate.
Pacific Express. 1910 Pacific at Elm Street, Suite 103. 969-7447. Inexpensive.
Pasta Plus. 225 Preston Royal East. 373-3999. Inexpensive to moderate.
Pat’s Park Cities. 6617 Snider Plaza. 363-7797. Inexpensive.
Pollo Bueno. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Inexpensive.
Today’s Gourmet. 4446 Lovers Ln 373-0325. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s Fresh Pasta. 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158, at Montfort. 991-4040. Inexpensive to moderate.
Bangkok Cafe. 2112 E. Arapaho at Jupiter. 644-9405. Inexpensive.
New Siam. 2415 Willowbrook. Suite 108 (at Northwest Hwy. and Harry Hines). 358-5679. Inexpensive to moderate.
Thai Cuisine. 1915 Central Expressway (off Park). Plano.422-5219. Moderate.
Thai Lanna. 1490 W. Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. Moderate.
Thai Nipa. 4315 Lemmon Ave. 526-6179. Inexpensive.
Thai Soon. 2018 Greenville Ave. 821-7666. Inexpensive.
Thai Taste. 4501 Cole Ave. 521-3513. Inexpensive tomoderate.
Thai Toy’s. 4422-B Lemmon Ave. 528-7233. Inexpensiveto moderate.
Arc-en-Ciel. 3555 W. Walnut Rd., Garland. 272-2188. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ba-Le. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. Inexpensive.
East Wind. 2711 Elm St. 745-5554. Inexpensive to moderate.
Mai’s Cuisine. 4814 Greenville Ave. 739-5424. Inexpensive.
Mekong. 4301 Bryan. 824-6200. Inexpensive.
Saigon. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Bistro Bagatelle. (French) 406 W. Abrams. Arlington. Metro (817) 261-0488- Moderate to expensive.
Cacharel. (French) Brookhollow Two. 2221 E. Lamar. Suite 900, Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. Moderate.
China Terrace. (Chinese) 5435 N. MacArthur.LasCo-linas. 550-1113. Inexpensive to moderate.
Esparza’s. (Mexican) 124 E. Worth St.. Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-4668. Inexpensive.
Gaspars. (New American) 150 S. Denton Tap Rd., Coppell. 393-5152. Moderate.
Jinbeh. (Japanese) 301 E. Las Colinas Blvd.. Suite 301, Irving. 869-4011. Moderate.
Moretti’s. (Italian) 2709 Mustang Drive, Grapevine Metro (817) 481-3230. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tandoor. (Indian) 532 Fielder North Plaza. Arlington. (1817)261-6604. Moderate.
Via Real. (Mexican) 4020 N. MacArthur, Irving. 255-0064. Moderate to expensive.
Benito’s. (Mexican) 1450W. Magnolia. (817)332-8633. Inexpensive.
Cafe Aspen. (New American) 3416 W. Seventh St. (817) 877-0838. Moderate to expensive.
Kincaid’s Grocery. (Burgers) 4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Inexpensive.
Hedary’s. (Lebanese) 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie Boulevard. (817) 731-6961. Moderate.
Jon’s Grille. (Burgers) 3009 S. University. (817) 923-1909. Inexpensive.
Le Chardonnay. (French) 2443 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 926-5622. Moderate to expensive.Papi’s. (Puerto Rican) 2239 N. Main. (817)625-4413. Inexpensive.
Reflections. (New American) The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main. (817.) 870-1000. Expensive.
Saint Emilion. (French) 3617 W. Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Moderate to expensive.
Seterry’s. (French) 4930 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 763-8787. Expensive.
Tejano Mexican Cuisine. (Mexican) 5716 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-7201. Inexpensive to moderate.
Tours Restaurant. (New American) 3500 W. Seventh. (817) 870-1672. Moderate to expensive.
Tuscany. (Italian) 4255 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 737-2971. Moderate to expensive.