THE DIOO

The outrageous idea of daring fo rank the 100 best restaurants in the Metroplex in order of bestness was borrowed from a wonderful old restaurant guide to Paris written by the illustrious food writer Waverley Root. As he so gleefully put it, “Only a very rash person would attempt to list these restaurants in their order of merit. Let us be rash.” Our sentiments exactly.

However, at Root so wisely noted, ’’no one, absolutely no one, would agree with you all along the line.” Se imagine, then, the difficulty of getting three very independent restaurant critics to agree on a single list. It wasn’t easy. We cornered our three critics-Betty Cook, Mary Brown Malouf, and W.L. Taitte-and, after a few hours of moderately polite debate, they arrived at a preliminary list of more than 100 restaurants. We then sent them back to their individual thinking and writing cubbyholes to meditate and vote without peer pressure. Their instructions were to base their votes on accumulated experiences with the restaurants on the list. Interestingly enough, the critics voted unanimously on the top four, although each voted for a different restaurant as the very best. From there on, the opinions tended to diverge dramatically. Occasionally they differed mightily on the merits of a place-one restaurant was ranked number eleven, forty-six, and seventy-seven respectively. Sometimes the unanimity of ranking was spooky: all three placed La Madeleine, for instance, within three points of one another. Our critics agree it was an enlightening few months. By ranking these restaurants, they were able to focus on what they truly valued in a dining experience, unmasking all those subtle, and not-so-subtle, nuances that make restaurants memorable- or forgettable. So, here they are. Unmasked. Unveiled. And unforgettable. The 100 best restaurants in Dallas and Fort Worth, beginning with . . .



NO.1 The Riviera The Riviera charismatically combines the sun-kissed flavors of Provence, via the skill of chef-owners David Holben and Lori Finkelman Holben, with the hand-kissing welcome assured each guest by host-owner Franco Bertolasi. The restaurant has hovered near the lop of every Dallas dining directory since its opening, but somehow, the charm of the food and (he place has deepened, not paled, over the years. How can the best continue to get better? That’s what makes it the best. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. -M.B.M



no.2 Routh Stree Cafe The only Real Texas Original among this city’s premier restaurants, Routh Street is sublimely civilized as to setting and service It is the fbod, though, that has carried the cafe to international stardom: chef Stephan Pyles’s near-magical talent for elevating regional cookery to creative heights may prove to be, in the long run, Dallas’s most enduring claim to world culinary fame. Meanwhile, the consistent freshness of his bill of tare makes dining here one of the richer rewards of the Good Life. 3005 Routh St. 871-7161. -B.C.



no.3 The Monsion on Turtle Creek Even the oddest-sounding combine-lions of ingredients work magically in the hands of celeb chef Dean 3 Fearing-he has imaginative taste buds. Alas, he is the least hands-on of our top chefs, but his expert crew always seems to do it right. And of course the restaurant’s quarters, elegant and imperious, are an attraction in themselves. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. -W.L.T.



no.4 Actuelle The food here, like the decor, is coolly perfect: everything is flawlessly executed and artistically presented with lots of style. The menu 4 is as much New Continental as New American; chef Victor Gielisse has cooked all over the world and it shows. He is at his best with contemporary variations of his own northern European cuisine, and he is an acknowledged master of fish cookery. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh St., Suite 125.855-0440. -W.R.M.



no.5 Laurels High style gets a literal translation in this top-of-the-Sheraton Park Central showplace. At night, the view is a jeweled dazzle of lights 5 crowned with downtown’s glitter. Inside, the setting is all sumptuous comfort. That the food deserves such support says much; that several changes of chefs over the past few years have caused nary a contrary bobble in this smooth-running operation says more. That the New American fare is always intriguingly conceived, sensitively executed, and exquisitely presented says it all. Sheraton fork Cen-tral Hotel 12720 Merit, off Coit near LBJ Freeway. 385-3000. -B.C.



no.6 Chaplin’s Jack Chaplin has always been a wonder of a cook, but he really outdoes himself now that he is his own boss. His New American menu offers food that manages to be stylish and homey at the same time. The ambience is surprisingly tony* for this section of Lower Greenville-but the style doesn’t keep the prices from being surprisingly low for what you get. 1928 Green-ville Ave. 823-3300. -W.L.T.



no.7 Pyramid Room The transformation of the gaudy old Pyramid Room’s faded grandeur to (he new Pyramid’s clean-faced cosmopolitan chic last year cost Dallas one landmark-but gave us another. Fairmont executive chef Avner Samuel’s adventurous spirit shines through in the bold excitement of his innovative Southwestern cuisine, giving the Pyramid a firm foothold on the future. 1717 N. Akard in the Fairmont Hotel 720-5249. -B.C.



no.8 Cafe Margoux Tom and Kay Agnew have had ambitious restaurants all over town in the last decade-Cafe Margaux’s new location is already the third with this moniker This is the most relaxed and comfortable setting yet, and the nouvelle Cajun/Creole food is better than ever. Many of New Orleans’s trendies restaurants don’t turn out food this good at prices this reasonable. 4216 Oak Lawn. 520-1985. -W.L.T.



no.9 Mente Carle The Grand Kempinski surprised us all with this sunny slice of Riviera sophistication-airy without putting on airs, splendid 9 without laying on overstatement. The food’s a lively Mediterranean mix of coastal French vis-à-vis Italian with richly sauced seafood starters and country-inspired fowl and vegetables. Service strikes just the right chord of informal indulgence, and if the place itself doesn’t push your gotta-take-a-cruise button, I’ll eat my Italian straw hat. 15201 Dallas Pkwy. in the Grand Kempinski Dallas Hotel. -B.C.



no.10 Adelmo’s The only problem with Adelmo’s is getting a table. But once you do, the service is warm and helpful and the food is terrific. Adelmo Banchetti’s Mediterranean bistro cuisine combines Italian, French, and Middle Eastern influences into a unique style all its own. 4537 Cole. 559-0325. -W.L.T.



no.11 The French Room Unequaled for unbridled elegance anywhere in Dallas, this baroque beauty would be a prime setting for a romantic rendezvous even if the food and service failed to match its extravagant charm. Fortunately, both match the room’s splendor-the food with impressive French flair, the service with warm and impeccable polish, Once pompously formal, almost arrogant in ambience, The French Room has evolved into one of the city’s most expansively comfortable grand dining places. The Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Com-merce. 742-8200. -B.C.



no.12 L’Entrecote The mainly French menu is ambitious, the flower-strewn food treatments are picture-pretty, and chef Michel Plan’s Alsatian roots weave subtlety into dishes that exemplify cutting-edge creativity softened by sensitive technique. Wrap this culinary’ package in a candlelit setting with attentive service and classical piano dinner music, and you could be miles away from the Anatole’s busy lobby, rather than merely a few steps. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. -B.C.



no.13 Hefstetter’s The sensational food and moderate prices mean lines at peak dining hours, and the atmosphere is cramped and rather too casual for the quality of the cooking. But the food!-it mixes elements of traditional German dishes with New American innovations, so that everything from crab cakes and innovative pasta dishes to schnitzels and fancy tones can figure in a memorable meal here. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W. Northwest Hwy., Suite 390. 358-7660. -W.L.T.



no.14 Cacharel Instead of trying to steal the Rangers. Dallas should covet Cacharel. The view from here is of Six Flags and turnpike traffic, but the ambience is more French than Texan-the prix fixe is reasonable, the food is outstanding, and the clientele ranges from dressed-to-the-teeth couples to families introducing their children to the world of fine dining. You see this mixed scene often in France, but too rarely in this country. A pity-Cacharel’s a great place for it, and the restaurant’s staff is unflappably equal to the challenge. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E Lamar, Suite 910, Arlington. Metro (817) 640-9981. -B.C.



no.15 Risterante Savine Cordiality here goes a step beyond ordinary professionalism-without hovering, host and staff seem tuned to sense the slightest need for attention, right down to adapting menu selections to accommodate individual appetites. Undecided between two or three pastas? Fine-they’ll bring you a sampler plate with some of each. And they’ll all be wonderful; the Savino way with pastas is fresh and authentic enough to all but outshine the restaurant’s veal and seafood specialties. 2929 S. Henderson.



no.16 Reflections A serene little stream between handsome columns sets a dream-like scene for unstressed dining in this remarkable Worthington Hotel hideaway. Food and service are as serene as the setting, the menu a rewarding array of innovative dishes (seafoods, in particular, are extravagantly emphasized), the staff poised and proficient. In Dallas, Reflections would command a waiting last Tor reservations; in Port Worth, the place is well worth the drive to experience such an urbane adventure in dining pleasure. The Worthington Hotel, 200 Main, Fort Worth. (817) 870-1000. -B.C.



no.17 Café Reyal Relying on understatement rather than showy glitter to underscore its luxury, this haute French haven in the Plaza of the Americas is the ultimate tranquil refuge lor romantics as well as moneyed business travelers. Rich linens, soft lights and music, an air of hushed refinement play quiet support to food creatively conceived and artistically presented. Service may seem less fine-tuned than in prior yean, but even so, Cafe’ Royal still deserves to be included on any list of leading Dallas dining destinations. Plaza of the Americas. 650 N. Pearl. 855-1709. -B.C.



no.18 Brazes This casual Texas bistro serves up slightly wild south-of-the-border-inspired specialties in similar style. Chef-owner Nancy Beckham’s experiments don’t always work, but generally you can count on highly imaginative, taste-tingling specials at very reasonable prices; menu perennials, like homemade King Ranch chicken and tacos chivere, with goat cheese and black beans, are right on. 2100 Greenville Ave. 821-6501. -M.B.M.



no.19 Baby Routh Routh Street Cafes supposedly less formal, perkier sib-ling was both pricey and underwhelming in its earlier days. But a new staff has turned the kitchen around, and the food now wins lots more battles than it loses. The tab can still be high fora “baby brother” restaurant, but all that understated cool is worth it. 2708 Routh St. 871-2345. -W.L.T.



no.20 Hedary’s Lebanese Restourant The Lebanese food served in this rather plain-looking place is excellent, though without local com-parison, since this is really the only lull-service Middle Eastern restaurant in the area. But the tabouleh, hummus, and kibbi here are as good or better than I’ve had anywhere. For a one-visit overview, order the maza, a selection of salads, and the meat combination piste. Promenade Center, 15400 Coit, Suite 2500, Richardson. 669-2112. -M.B.M



no.21 Deep Ellum Cafe The laid-back, bare-brick, non-decor decor and neo-Bohemian waitstaff are reminiscent of an Austin restaurant, and a pleasant change of pace in the local restaurant scene. This place is pan of its neighborhood like few other Dallas establishments; you’re aware of (he street life outside, and it’s fun to walk and window shop after you dine. The food is New American, drawing on a base of old Southern and Southwest specialties, but the menu is adventurous, and there are Italian and Thai influences, too. 2706 Elm St. 741-9012. -M.B.M.



no.22 Sum’s Cafe This started out as the Texas sibling of the snazzy New York hot spot, and it’s still a see-and-be-seen favorite. Inside, the wide-open spaces (often packed elbow-to-elbow, at least in the bar) and tall timbers remind you of the Southwest. The menu has become more and more rooted in this region-Navajo pizza and chicken-fried tuna steak, Southwest Caesar salad with tortilla strips instead of croutons, pasta with com, shrimp, and peppers-food that transcends trendiness. 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140. 855-2233. -M.B.M.



no.23 Sceff’s-A Seafeed House One of the city’s less-heralded treasures, Scott’s may be the most creative seafood restaurant around, The creativity is keyed to impeccable freshness-the menu’s listings hit all the bases, from innovative excitement to supreme simplicity. Peerless accompaniments like homemade fresh pasta side dishes and to-die-for desserts only add to the joy of discovery one feels with every visit to this hospitable, family-run place. 4620 McKinney Ave. 528-7777. -B.C.



no.24 Caffé Poparazzi A talented young couple has made a memorable HO, dining spot out of what at first glance seems an ordinary storefront res-taurant. The Italian husband is in the kitchen; the Oklahoman wife manages the front. The northern Italian food is assertive and assured, and the warm welcome makes you feel like a personal guest. 8989 Forest in., Suite 136. 644-1323. -W.L.T.



no.25 Pemodere Unfortunately, this is one of the loudest as well as one of the best Italian restaurants in Dallas. This doesn’t seem to faze anyone. The new-style Italian (are features grilled meats, fish, and roast chicken and favors fresh, just-cooked pasta sauces over old-fashioned long-simmered ones. The food is great, but if it’s nice, I’d eat outside. 2520 Oder Springs. 871-1924. -M.B.M.



no.26 Newport’s Seafood Although this has always been one of our bet-ter seafood restaurants, in the last couple of years it has evolved into one of the best. The seafood is as fresh and precisely prepared as ever, and now the more ambitious treatments are lots more convincing. So (hose who like their denizens of the deep pristine and sauceless will be satisfied, and those who prefer their fish elaborately gussied up will be happy, too. 703 McKinney Ave. in the Brewery: 954-0220. -W.L.T.



no.27 Ranche Martinez This is a true Mom and Pop spot-there’s a sec-ond-generation Tex-Mex restaurateur in the kitchen, and the wife and kids run the front of the house. The food is worth the wait, everything is cooked to order, and (he word is out. Don’t miss the pan-fried chile relleno. 6312 La Vista. 823-5517. -M.B.M.



no.28 Dakota’s This downtown, downstairs restaurant is a favorite with pin-stripe types; the interior is seriously handsome, and the menu con-centrates on fairly simple grilled meats and fish enlivened with inventive side dishes and specials. The torch-lit patio, softened by a waterfall wall, is appealing and romantic. 600 N. Akard. 740-4001. -M.B.M.



no.29 The Grape People who tend to think of Dallas’s oldest wine bar as old-shoe familiar are missing one of the city’s ongoing best bets for line French dining, reasonably priced. The Crape’s blackboard menu is a daily changing adventure in fresh interpretations of classic dishes. By-the-glass wine offerings provide a variety that would challenge lesser culinary triumphs for at-tention; here, food and wine meld with warm service and darkly casual surroundings to create an ambience (hat, however Familiar, grows better and better with time. 2808 Creenville Ave 828-1981. -B.C.



no.30 Café America A name and ownership change finds this handsome restaurant back in the hands of Mel Hollen and once again serving some of the fines seafood in town-an eclectic selection, from perfectly fresh yellowfin sashimi with eye-popping wasabi to San Francisco-style cioppino and simply broiled, fresh fin and shellfish. 4546 McKinney. 559-4441. -M.B.M.



no.31 Chez Géerard This lovely little place is charming, cozy, and very French in food, wine, and service. Chez Gerard is light and (lower-filled during the day; at night, it has a soft and convivial, if not exactly intimate, atmosphere-like a formal family dining room. The food is not haute, but always satisfying. 4444 McKinney Ave .522-6865. -M.B.M.



no.32 Momo’s Italian Specialties MoMo’s is certainly the city’s most am-bitious and authentic Italian restaurant. If only each dish came up to the level of the restaurant’s best, it would be one of Dallas’s top dozen restaurants. There is a certain inconsistency in execution, though MoMo’s original spot on Forest Lane is the most even of the group bearing some variation of this name. 9191 forest Ln., Suite A2. 234-6800. 3309N. Central Expwy., Suite 370, Plano. 423-1066 -W.L.T.



no.33 Premonade At The Mansi It’s possible to have some of the ex-citement of the main restaurants cuisine-not to mention some of 33 the thrill of just being on the premises-at quite reasonable prices if you do breakfast or lunch at the Mansion’s elegant equivalent of a coffeeshop. There are sandwiches and such things, but also wondrous soups, delicious designer pizzas, and imaginative luncheon specials. Breakfast could very well be the best in town. 281 Turtle Creek Blvd. 559-2l00. -W.L.T.



no.34 Sfuzzi This chic room is a clever blend of faux-Roman architecture (crumbling ruins) and Dallas icons (flying horses) lit by high-tech halogen; the food is a delicious blend of new California and Italian: shrimp pizza, Romano-crusted veal, and grilled salmon with grapefruit and basil, for example. Just be aware-make reservations, watch the waitstaff’s attitude, and skip dessert. 2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2606. -M.B.M.



no.35 City Cafe According to one of its investors, this inconspicuous but ac-cessible eatery was conceived to offer Park Cities gentry a place to dine well in relaxed surroundings. The concept has worked-too well, perhaps, for those who might have preferred the café to remain undiscovered by outsiders. The food is superior-regional dishes accent seasonal freshness on a menu that changes often enough never to be boring. The setting and ambience are genteel, ye( unpretentious, a combination that has earned a devoted following among cognoscenti in search of non-glitz. 5757 W. Loom Lane. 351-2233. -B.C.



no.36 Spatz The space is hardly more than a bar with a patio outside (tented and heated in the wintertime). But the reasonably priced New American food is excellent. The kitchen specializes in lighter, healthier item like poultry, seafood, and pasta-but don’t pass up the calorie-packed desserts, like the yummy cobblers. 2912 N. Henderson. 827-7984. -W.L.T.



no.37 Alessie’s This Italian bistro has been a Park Cities favorite for years. but recently the food seems to have improved dramatically over its former, just this side of great, level. The pastas are sauced more richly, and the kitchen has grown more assertive in its use of fresh herbs. For dessert, the white chocolate ice cream with berries has always been a favorite, but now there is competition from the rich Colorado fudge cake. 4117 Lomo Alto. 52l-3585. -W.L.T.



no.38 Peggy Sue S&Q This has been dubbed New Age barbecue because, in addition to smoky ribs, brisket, and chicken. Peggy Sue offers a wide selection of nicely cooked vegetables-not to mention some mouth-watering variations on the classic fried pie. Altogether a great update on the classic ’cue.6600 Snider Plaza. 987-9189. -M.B.M.



no.39 Baker’s Ribs No gimmicks here-this is an old-fashioned, belly-up-to-the-barbecue joint. You place your order at the counter in the back (sure bets are the mahogany-skinned, succulent chicken and the falling-off-the-bone-tender ribs], then pick up your chips and jalapenos, pour yourself some tea, and settle down to some serious carnivorousness. 2724 Comment 748-5433. -M.B.M.



no.40 Uale Tai’s For a while, this branch of Houston’s legendary haute Chinese restaurant seemed on the verge of turning out the truly great Chinese food Dallas has lacked. Some of the zip seems to have dissipated, but Uncle Tai’s still produces some inspired variations on spicy Hunanese classics, often with materials you don’t associate with Chinese restaurants (like salmon or venison). 13350 Dallas Pkwy. in the Galleria. 934-9998. -W.L.T.



no.41 Cafe Pacific What do the folks of the Park Cities seem to treasure most in a seafood restaurant? A businesslike atmosphere, expert service, and extremely dependable if not always imaginative cooking. There is undoubtedly unfulfilled potential for some real excitement here-we’d like to see the kitchen challenged to astound us and then let loose so it could do the job. 24 Highland Part tillage, Preston at Mockingbird. 526-1170. -W.L.T.



no.42 Cafe Panda Not quite the neighborhood restaurant you expect it to be, Cafe Panda is suave, subtle, and citified behind those shopping-strip doors; the food is superior and the service solicitous. Try the chef’s special dishes-we love the minced chicken in lettuce leaves-and order the filtered coffee after your meal; it’s a treat. 7979 Inwood. Suite 121.902-9500. -M.B.M.



no.43 Thai Taste Thai food has really gained a foothold in Dallas over the past couple of years, but most Thai restaurants are still small and low-budget. Thai Taste is by no means expensive, but the place, with linen-topped tables and subdued lighting, is comparatively elegant, and the food is some of the best. 4501 Coke Ave. 521-3513. -M.B.M.



no.44 Nate’s seafood and Steakhouse The proliferation of quite good, not-too-pricey Louisiana-style restaurants is one of the nicest develop-ments on the area’s restaurant scene in recent years. Nate’s turns out the best everyday Creole and Cajun fare. Both fried seafood and more elaborate stuffed and sauced fish dishes are menu specialties. 1495I Midway Rd., Addison. 701-9622. -W.L.T.



no.45 Massime da Milano This sharp, high-design Italian bakery offers some of the best fast food in town, as well as an irresistible selection of fresh Italian breads and pastries. Pasta salads, sandwiches, and crisp-crusted pizza by the slice are regular offerings; service is cafeteria-style. The chocolate hazelnut cookies and the lemon wafers alone are worth the stop. 5519 W. Lovers Lane. 351-1426. 2121 San Jacinto. 871-0400. 1445 Ross Ave in the NCNB Building. 855-6279. -M.B.M.



no.46 Gleria’s Launched by a young, energetic migrant couple, Gloria’s has grown from its shoestring start in Oak Cliff to two restaurants: the original much prettied-up but still fairly stark, and a North Dallas motel site that’s slicker but serves the same food. Such food it is, too-the Mexican menu items are line, but what puts (he place on this magazine’s top-eatery list is its Salvadoran specialties. 600 W. Davis, 948-3672. 9386 LBJ Frwy. at Abrams. 690-0622. -B.C.



no.47 Mario’s Chiquita Order, if you must, the straight Tex-Mex plates here-they’ll equal any you’ll get elsewhere. But the main strength of Mario Leal’s flagship restaurant is in more urbane fare: Mexican classics, influenced sometimes by refinements from other great world cuisines. Thus, his chicken parilla is definitive, his com soup one-ups Asian versions, and the rajas am mm represents a marriage of peppers, onions, and creamy cheese sauce as subtle as French poetry. 4514 Travis, Suite 105 (in Travis Walk). 521-0721.-B.C.

no.48 Del Frisce’s Double Eagle In the battle of the twin steakhouses (Mike’s Del Frisco’s vs. Del Frisco’s Double Eagle), the one at the original location, with the original owner, has been the one to survive. It still sizzles to perfection hunks of heavy, aged beef big enough to satisfy a grizzly bear. The accompaniments are usually good, and the menu does offer alternatives to steak-but with beef like this, why go exploring? 4300 Lemmon Ave. 526-9811. -W.L.T.



no.49 La Tosca This is one of the best-looking Italian restaurants in town-the combination of crisp black and white with David Hockney blue and the collection of works by local artists is as timely and chic as ever. The food, always good, has recently been updated to focus more on the newer, lighter style of Italian cooking-though that doesn’t mean it’s not hearty and satisfying. 7713 In-wood. 352-8373. -M.B.M.



no.50 Fishmonger’s Seafood Market and Café This oversized, crowded. plain-Jane Piano storefront seafood market and restaurant has evolved into one of (he Metroplex’s most dependable purveyors of fish and shellfish. Some of the best dishes are simple treatments of fairly exotic foodstuffs, like plain boiled crawfish and grilled tilapia. Others are more complex preparations of standard seafood, like scallops au gratin and redfish Pont-chartrain. 1915 N. Central Expwy. at Chisholm. Suite 600. Plano.423-3699. -W.L.T.



no.51 Beau Nash This is not big-deal hotel dining like the Mansion: eating at Beau Nash in the Hotel Crescent Court is casual enough to be spontaneous (just “drop in” for a smoked salmon and caviar pizza), but elegant enough to feel festive. Enjoy the well-heeled bus-tle of the bar in the main dining room or retreat to a (relatively) quiet corner and enjoy the view of the conservatory. Service can sometimes be a problem, but the food is appealing for late-night snacking or a lull dinner. Tortilla-crusted shrimp are sublime. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3200. -M.B.M.



no.52 Stubbs A Lubbock original, and new arrival in Dallas via Austin, this is a soulful barbecue restau-rant, blues bar, and all-purpose hangout on Lower Greenville. Sausage and cornbread make a great plate, if you’re tired of beef on a bun. 3619 Greenville Ave 828-4035. -M.B.M.



no.53 The Old Warsaw What the Orient Express is to European travel, The Old Warsaw is to Dallas 53 dining-regal, insouciantly extravagant, a culinary anachronism. The long-lived bastion of traditional Continental fare has had its ups and downs: just now, the cycle’s high, thanks partly to a revival of interest in classic dishes, elegantly prepared and proudly served, and partly to its dark, crystal-chandeliered splendor and disregard for trendy food fascinations. 2610 Maple. 528-0032. -B.C.



no.54 Arcadia Bar & Grill Sure, it looks more like a bar than like one of the city’s best restaurants, but don’t let that slop you from sampling its versions of famous Louisiana dishes, which can be exciting. Some of the recipes, like the pale-colored gumbo, are unorthodox, but that doesn’t keep them from lasting good. 2114 Green-ville Ave. 821-1300. -W.L.T.



no.55 Thai Toy’s The inn-like space is cramped, and the tall stools that serve instead of chairs are hard on the lumbar sacrum, but this tiny place serves some of the best handmade Thai food around. The menu is vegetarian in a loose sense, which means that there are lots of seafood choices in addition to great treatments of torn and noodles and veggies like eggplant. Service can be slow, but that’s because everything is made to order and given personal attention. 4422-B Lemmon Ave 528-7233. -W.L.T.



no.56 Jennivine British in tone and temperament, this McKinney Avenue landmark’s special talent involves endowing Continental dishes with English accents (notably jams, chutneys, and cheeses) to the general improvement of both. The foods are fresh, the service is cheeky in a kindly sort of way. and the setting is as charming as a British country inn’s-romance blossoms here almost visibly among the young sophisticates who favor the place, and a wittily extensive wine list does nothing to break the spell. 3605 McKinneky Ave. 528-6910. -B.C.



no.57 Saigon You might call Saigon user-friendly for new initiates to the healthy joys of Vietnamese fare. Certainly, the place is friendly-the proprietor’s welcome is warm and his counsel most helpful in choosing among unfamiliar dishes. And certainly, the fare is outstanding and easy to like, because the cuisine involves only immaculately* fresh ingredients and every piece of every dish is comfortingly recognizable. 1731 Greenville Ave. 828-9795. -B.C.



no.58 Saff’s Afghan Cuisine AJghan food is some-thing like Indian food, only much less spicy. This suburban restaurant turns out really special Afghan dishes-it’s rare that a cuisine represented by only one outlet in a locale shines so brightly. The unusual appetizers and the tender skewered meats are the best dishes-I only-wish they were offered on the lunchtime buffet. 14849 Inwood. Addison. 991-9292. -W.L.T.



no.59 Landmark Cafe Undeniably one of the pret-tiest dining environments in town, the Omni Melrose’s garden-like main dining room is proud proof (hat meticulous restoration is infinitely better than new-hence the restaurant’s name. The food here is exuberantly New American in style, not always successfully executed, but never dull and rarely disappointing, especially if one sticks to game dishes, at which the chef excels. Service is consistent with the ambience, which is soothingly cosseting. Omni Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oak Lawn. 522-1453. -B.C.



no.60 La Madeleine What can be said about a place that brings us this bread, these deep-flavored soups, this bread, those lavish salads, this bread, that cheese-rich Croque Monsieur sandwich? We could mention the bread, which is actually a cornucopia of stone-oven-baked French loaves, baguettes, and rolls that have redefined Real Bread in homes and restaurants all over (own. And yes. we could rhapsodize about the desserts baked here, but frankly we never have room for them after we’ve satisfied our lust for. yes. the bread. 3072 W. Mock-ingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. 628 NorthPark Center. 696-2398. -B.C.



no.61 Hibachi-Ya Japanese Restaurant Tucked shyly away in a corner of Bachman Plaza, this unpretentious little bijou does magical things with beef on its single sunken hibachi grill-the steaks here, from filets to sirloins, outshine any American version I’ve had in tenderness and flavor, whether served solo, cubed or sliced, or combined with fruits and silken seafoods. House wines are above-average pleasant, as are willing service and a decor that is simple but comfortable, altogether unstressed. 3150 U. Northwest Hwy., Suite 510. 350-1110 -B.C.

no.62 Saint Emilion This smallish and inconspicuous French bistro on Fort Worth’s West Side has some real jewels on its menu. The salad with bacon and the crisp, spit-roasted duckling are particular favorites. If smelts, any fish imported from abroad, turn up as a daily special, don’t fail to order them. 3617 W. Seventh. Fort Worth. (817)737-2781. -W.L.T.



no.63 York St. This newish Continental boite delivers lively versions of familiar European classics. Standards like lamb, veal, pheasant, and rabbit take on born-again freshness here at the hands of a chef whose command of sauces, sparked with seasonal herb and vegetable accents, is masterful. A thoughtful selection of wines, frequently replenished hot breads and sweet butter, and near-homelike service complete an ambience of clubby comfort. 6047 Lewis St. (off Skillman at Live Oak). 826-0968. -B.C.



no.64 India Palace Restaurant This has always been the most ambitious Indian restaurant we have had. and, after the recent move to new quarters. still more innovative dishes are promised in the near future. All the specialties of the Moglai cuisine of northern India are at their best here-skewered lamb and chicken, richly sauced kormas, hand-baked breads. The weekend versions of the lunchtime buffet are a spectacular introduction to the variety of Indian food. 12187 Preston Rd. 392-0190. -W.L.T.



no.65 Shogun of Japan Dining here on a lavish spread of starters (the Japanese menu lists dozens) is an evening of rare pleasure for those of us who prefer mam’ small plates to a few big ones. More conventional patrons do equally well with the lull dinners offered-the special lacquered-box dinner is a particularly delightful sampler of traditional specialties, and everything served is the essence of fresh delight. As is the service, at the hands of kimono-clad ladies whose grace is as charming as (heir clear eagerness to see you sumptuously fed. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. -B.C.



no.66 Crescent Gourmet The cloud-painted cupolas, marble floors, and shining brass make this un-doubtedly the most beautiful takeout in town, and the kitchen, shared with Beau Nash, turns out great hot specials and a selection of salads and sandwiches-avocado and bacon on focaccia is a favorite-as well as killer candy-like chocolate chunk cookies. It’s too bad this place is not open weekends. 400 Crescent Court. 871-3223. -M.B.M.



no.67 City Market This slick city lunch spot serves some down-home cooking-chicken-rice salad 67 with nuts, potato salad in pesto, chili, soups and sandwiches, apricot bread pudding… it’s all satisfying and unexpectedly imaginative. A better fast lunch is hard to find.2001 Ross, Trammell Crow Center, Suite 200. 979-2696. -M.B.M.



no.68 Javier’s The clientele is yupscale, but the atmosphere here is all casual indulgence. A long-run-rang favorite among SMU and Park Cities devotees, Javier’s serves a formidable green peppercorn steak, amon3g other things, including a right wicked margarita. Front room and bar areas are noisy on weekend nights, but the grand dining rooms that spread beyond the entrance offer quieter environs for less ebullient types. 4912 Cole 521-4211. -B.C.



no.69 Franki’s Li’I Europe Franki kovacic has gathered the substance of Middle Europe into a menu that offers the best of Hungary and his native Yugoslavia. Besides the splendidly satisfying food, people come here for an ambience that knows no strangers and permits no pomp. The result: an almost club-like feeling of friendly kinship among regulars. 362 Casa Linda Plazo, Garland Hood at Buckner. 320-0426 2515 McKinney Ave 953-0426. -B.C.



no.70 Bishep Arts Cafe This refreshing little hangout serves up avant home cooking in an artsy Bohe-mian setting right in the heart of Oak Cliff. Spiffy salads, super soups, simple but subtle entree treatments mark the daily evolving blackboard menu; nothing’s elaborate, but everything’s fresh, prettily served, and petitely priced. The atmosphere here is almost too laid-back to be believed. 316 W.Seventh St. 943-3565. -B.C.



no.71 Dream Café By dinnertime, you may be too jaded by the day you’ve had to find the earnestly healthy menu here appealing, but in (he freshness of the morning a wholesome breakfast at this natural foods restaurant is a great idea-ricotta blueberry pancakes, red chili migas, fresh-squeezed juice, and whole-grain breads are all worth waking up for. So is the hot coffee-not a controlled substance here. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle, Suite 170. 954-0486. -M.B.M.



no.72 First Chinese B-B-Q It’s tiny, there’s barely a sign outside, they don’t accept credit cards, and sometimes you are not sure whether the staff understands everything you are saying. But the kitchen turns out authentic Southern Chinese food with real authority. The barbecue is a hit, but so are the unusual soup and noodle dishes and the authentic treatments of fresh seafood. 111S.Greenville Ave., Richardson. 680-8216. -W.L.T.



no.73 ZuZu The “handmade” Mexican food served here is very different from the usual melted cheese T3 and chili taste of Tex-Mex. The specialty is soft tacos- grilled chicken and beef rolled with lettuce, tomatoes, and fresh salsa in a flour tortilla-and gorditas, thick masa patties piled with black beans, grated cheese, chicken, and lettuce. It’s fresher, lighter, and very, very good. 6423 Hillcrest (across from SMU). 521-4456.2900 McKinney Ave. 880-0140.



no.74 Capriccio Across the street from The Crescent’s European grandeur. Capriccio brings elegance home again, to a proud old Dallas mansion lovingly restored to gracious beauty. Who would think an Italian restaurant would wear well here? This one does, though. via fine, fresh fare, carefully prepared and beautifully presented. Capriccio offers a wonderfully refined environment for discreet business lunches or leisurely dinners in rooms that suggest home-like privacy. 2676 Maple. 871-2004. -B.C.



no.75Taiwan Restaurant Nobody does dim sum better than this second-floor Belt Line restau-rant-the young brunch crowds on weekends bear witness to the manifest pleasures of sampling the dozens of small. exotic treats dispensed from passing carts. There’s more. though, to Chinese cookery than this, and Taiwan’s extensive menu has the cuisine covered, from simple favorites to spicy adventures. Among the particular talents of the place: elaborate multi-course dinners, painstakingly prepared and artistically served. 4980 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2333. -B.C.



no.76 The Palm Restaurant Texas is supposed to be the homeland of total excess, but it has taken out-siders to bring us steaks as big as the state’s own image. all the purveyors that have moved here from various pans of the country. The Palm is still favored by many, as much for its tongue-in-cheek altitude, walls of caricatures, and sawdust-strewn floors as for its food. Well, maybe not quite as much-along with its monument-sized perfect steaks, the place serves side dishes that are distinctive and live lobsters big enough to double as dancing partners. Prices are high, but so are spirits. 701 Ross. 698-0470. -B.C.



no.77 Mr. Sushi The sushi bar has a wide variety of immaculately fresh fish and shellfish, and the cutlers wield their cleavers with impressive authority. But the cooked dishes also prove that the Japanese know how to eat well and subtly. The gyoza (Japanese dumplings), kara-age (crisp morsels of fried chicken), and salmon but-teryaki (lightly sautéed) are among the most satisfying offerings. 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168 -W.L.T.



no.78 Theodore’s Seafood Restaurant Is Theo-dore’s, with its crisp tablecloths and loyal clientele, a seafood restaurant or a Creek one? Both, and among the best in either category. Certainly the Greek food is the best in the Metroplex, but don’t overlook the fish, like the flounder broiled to perfection and spiked with garlic. The Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill, Suite 810. 361-1922. -W.L.T.



no.79 Marty’s This is still the deluxe wine store it started out to be, but now the gourmet department is just as impressive. In addition to the best selection of cheeses in town, there is an array of patés, breads, crackers, salads, and specialty produce, not to mention a dessert case loaded with French and American pastries and chocolates. This is one of the lew places where you can stop by and pick up a complete dinner to go-(he friendly and knowledgeable staff will help you compose a menu. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. -M.B.M.



no.80 Thai Lanna Both locations offer exemplary Thai dishes like the shocking chicken coconut soup, which boasts all kinds of mysterious spices and leafy herbs and is spicy enough to send you gasping for water. The mee grob, a sweet and crunchy appetizer, is also special. And the Thai curries-especially those made with eggplant-are as good as you will find anywhere. 1490 W. Spring Valley, Richardson. 690-3637. 4315 Bryan. 827-6478. -W.L.T.



no.81 Blue Mesa Grill Welcome to New Wave Mex-ican food, served here in an airy, art-filled at-mosphere. Taquitos might be made with duck and blue corn tortillas, the chile relleno served with a mango salsa, the chimichangas filled with bananas. Most of these off-the-wall ideas work very well-the adobe pie, an upside-down chili, cheese, and chicken pie in a tamale crust, could become a standard. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Bell Lineal Dallas Pkwy., Suite 500, Addison. 934-0165. -M.B.M.

no.82 Cafe Madrid Trendsetters have been touting tapas for a couple of years now, but when (he 82 Spanish snacks finally settled in Dallas, it wasn’t in a high-profile, high-design location. Cafe Madrid is somewhat off the beaten restaurant path, but crowds are finding it never-theless, coming to munch on little plates of garlicky shrimp, beef brochettes, potato cakes, and other two-bite treats. 4501 Travis St. 528-1731. -M.B.M.



no.83 Quadrangle Grille It’s bright and airy on the inside and it boasts a large patio dining area, so a visit to Quadrangle Grille almost always lifts your spirits even before food comes to the table. And the food can be uplifting too, whether you order something simple like a New Age cheeseburger or something a lot more complicated. The cooking here tends to be a little more innovative and creative than at some of the other American grills that have opened lately. 2800 Routh St. in the Quadrangle, Suite 180. 979-9022. -W.L.T.



no.84 Chef Wang The menu here boasts excellent upscale Chinese offerings, a mix of Hunan-Szechwan and Mandarin. However, what’s really special about Chef Wang are the intriguing off-the-menu Korean specialties available. A hot tip: call ahead for the Peking duck-you won’t be disappointed. 9330 N. Central Expwy., United Artists Plaza. 373-1403. -M.B.M.



no.85 Café Athenee Romanian hospitality would make this place notable even if Romanian food were not the warm, homey cuisine that it is as served here. Cabbage rolls as comforting as a mother’s hug. Homemade sausage spiced with gypsy magic. The master of the café, who is also its chef, circulates through the happy regulars who have word-of-mouthed Café Athenee to popularity. 5365 Spring Valley at Montfort, Suite 150. 239-8060. -B.C.



no.86 Le Chardonnay As if it were not already among Fort Worths most smiled-upon dining establish-ments, Le Chardonnay encourages patrons to play with their food via flat-rock cooking: the rocks are heated, and customers cook their own hors d’oeuvres upon them. Such fun is a new, but hardly needed wrinkle here-the sleek two-level restaurant serves up French fare that is creative, from-scratch fresh, and healthy. 2443 Forest Park Bled., Fort Worth. (817) 926-5622. -B.C.



no.87 Highland Park Cafeteria A real-life ency-clopedia of Southern cooking, the spread at this Dallas institution exhibits such specialties as golden fried chicken, greens, chicken-fried steak, Jell-O salad, com muffins, and devil’s food cake, along with countless others, all homey and satisfying. 4611 Cole at Knox. 526-3801. -M.B.M.



no. 88 Aw Shucks Think fresh-fried oysters, shrimp, and crawfish in season. Visualize an extremely casual atmosphere where the gumbo is the real thing and the fries and hush puppies can’t be beat. Then add a cold beer and-voilà. All (hat’s missing is a nice ocean breeze. 3601 Greenville Ave. 821-9449. -M.B.M.



no.89 La Suprema Tortilleria La Suprema occupies a former gas station in a part of Dallas not known 89 for fine restaurants. But imagination and attention to detail have made it one of the best places to eat Tex-Mex. The food aims to be healthier (there are tortillas of all sorts, for instance, even of oat bran, and they are made with canola oil rather than lard)-but it also tastes really good. 7630 Military Pkwy. 388-1244. -W.L.T.



no.90 Chip’s It’s a hassle to eat at Chip’s during lunch hour. You have to order your food at the counter and then elbow others for a table. But the burgers and malts have a great old-fashioned taste, so you forget the struggle and just enjoy. 4501 N. Central Expwy. 526-1092. 2445 W. Northwest Hwy. Suite 101. 350-8751. -W.L.T.



no.91 Szechwan Pavilion Consistently excellent Szechwan fowl is served here in a happy atmos-phere. The warm peach walls and bright-colored kites hanging from the ceiling are a welcome change from the subdued tranquility of most Chinese restaurants: specialties like the whole fried fish and orange beef are just as zippy.8411 Preston. 368-4303. -M.B.M.



no.92 Primo’s The botanas platter here is the best in town-batter-fried, stuffed jalapenos, crackling-fresh chicken flautilas, gooey nachos with chunky guacamole, and tiny tacos, fried after filling. If you can handle it, after this, the combination plates deliver what the appetizers promise-some of the best straightforward Tex-Mex around. 3309 McKinney Ave. 520-3303. -M.B.M.



no.93 Akbar The quality of the cooking in the main restaurant has maintained a consistency that places it an inch or two. if no longer head and shoulders, above the general run of places that now serve excellent Indian food. The menu is standard Indian fare-meats and breads cooked in the tandoor (a big clay oven), spicy curries, creamy kormas. Akbar just does them a little better. 2115 Promenade Center. Richardson. 235-0260. -W.L.T.



no. 94 Ba Le Hardly bigger than a handkerchief, this family-run mini-café produces some of the most 94 delightful Vietnamese fare around. French-roll sandwiches are Fresh, fine, and subtly exotic, their familiar meat and cheese layers accented with Asian seasonings. Most of the trade is takeout, but eating here is a race experience, too- the ambience is homey and the prices pocket-change modest. 4812 Bryan. 821-1880. -B.C.



no.95 Esparza’s Those with lots of experience in eating Tex-Mex in its home territory-that is, South Texas-generally find that Esparza’s serves up things that call up those memories. Relatively newfangled items like fajitas are at their best here. But what makes a visit to this cheerfully rambling old house special are the old-style Tex-Mex standbys like enchiladas, tacos, rice, and beans. 124 E. Worth St., Grapevine. Metro (817) 481-4668. -W.L.T.



no.96 Celebration Dallas’s original hippie restaurant has aged gracefully, unlike so much else from that era. The atmosphere is mellow, and the food is still one of the best bargains in town. Specials are good; menu standards like baked chicken and pot roast, all served family-style, are honest, no-frills, rib-sticking fare. 4503 W. Lovers Lane. 351-5681. -M.B.M.

no.97 Kincaid’s Grocery The noon lineup of addicts in this old-fashioned neighborhood market attests to its legendary reputation The burgers are huge structures with accompaniments to match: great potato salad, home-style pinto beans, and cobblers that sell out halfway through the lunch rush. You stand at counters to eat here, but nobody minds: the small-town atmosphere is as winning as the food. 4901 Camp Bowie, Fort Worth (817) 732-2881. -B.C.



no.98 Deli News Far North Dallas has a monopoly on good Jewish-style delicatessens in the Metroplex. This one is special even among the special because of the earthy goodness of the food offered by the Russian émigrés who run it. Among the joys are the roast beef and corned beef, the breakfast specials, and the poppyseed and other pastries. 15775 Hillcrest, Suite 502. 392-3354. -W.L.T.



no.99 Sonny Bryan’s If only as proof that this city’s soul is not all plastic and posturing, this institution’s immortality is deserved. Where else is your choice of seating a battered school desk or the hood of your car? Said car might be a Porsche or a pickup-the people mix crammed in this dowdy drive-in is almost as marvelous as the sauce, a secret recipe that elevates the barbecue here beyond mere slow-smoked succulence. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. -B.C.



no. 100 Arc-en-Ciel This large restaurant in the heart of the Garland-Richardson Asian community is nothing much to look at. But the enormous menu filled with both Vietnamese dishes and “authentic Chinese specialties11 assures a dining experience fascinating in its variety. Although non-Asians tend to remember the Vietnamese dishes, Chinese people think of the place as their own, calling the Arc-en-Ciel (French for rainbow) the “Diamond.” 3555 W. Walnut Rd., Garland. 272-2188. -W.L.T.