GOOD SPORTS

Dallas women lead complicated lives. We are quietly in command from car pool to corporate boardroom, through a see-and-be-seen lunch, PTA, dinner with friends, a quick shop to restock the larder, to bed, and back again for more of the same. We’ve learned to take life in the fast lane in stride, so the fashion we choose to put on must function, allow us to move. And we refuse to sacrifice style to suit reality. Happily, Dallas women, like our sisters in New York, LA., and most points in between, will find that the all-American appeal of easy, elegant sportswear has never looked better than this fall. Without pushing the panic button for the sake of change, designers nudge us toward the Nineties by taking the pressure off skirt lengths and drastic shapes. Instead, they point the way toward a power play of exquisite fabrics, exuberant colors, and handsome textures for day and evening. Long, leggy looks, menswear shapes, and sparingly seen, stunning accessories speak for themselves: softly. Fall is inventive design stitched together with reality. Wit that works. And we can wear it.

THE LOOK ? MODERN CLASSICS

Ronaldus Shamask’s provocative, minimalist vision includes this double-breast-ed blazer and pant in black gabardine, crisp white cotton shirt, and black velvet trench. On the runway, Sha-mask added heirloom crosses held by black silk cords, the perfect finish lor the ecclesiastic silhouettes that opened his show. In the real world, each classic piece will add striking day or night mileage to wardrobes this tall and next. The collection is available at Stanley Korshak and Neiman Marcus.

THE LOOK ? SLEEK LEG AND GREAT JACKET The evolution of modern style continues this fall: clean, uncontrived shapes and luxurious fabric choices that can move easily from day into evening. Donna Karan’s fall collection continues to provides successful system of classics pared down to basic, elegant pieces. This fall she added a chic, wool jersey unitard to her bodysuits-as-foundation design scheme, a wardrobe-stretcher informed women will want to own. Karan’s midnight blue wool crepe jersey unitard, herewith an ivory silk, notched collar bodysuit, both fit beneath her boxy blazer and coat in 100 percent cashmere. The shoe to be seen in for fall: flat, suede, interesting, in tandem with textural leggings, Clothing and shoes by Donna Karan available in Dallas at The Gazebo. Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,

AT NIGHT, thoughtful, alternative twists on glamour give glitz a run for its money. Sportswear shapes: a tunic and stretch pants or turtleneck and city shorts in bold, sequined stripes; a hooded, metallic parka-as-dress; his tuxedo and pajamas in sheer, silk, black-watch plaid all make news for her. Baroque silk damasks and bold new satins, silks, and velvets, struck with sequins and beads, take on ethereal shapes as ball gowns, but are equally elegant sewn into girls-will-be-boys separates that should light up the night. Adding finish to almost everything evening: an ornate, flat, velvet slipper or one with a barely there curved heel, and stockings that catch and hold the light.

THE LOOK? NEW NIGHTLIFE At Isaac Miztahi, “daytime” fab-rics and treatments became elegant statements, alterna-tive takes on evening. femi-nine silhouettes for alter dark. A banker’s gray flannel evening kilt (opposite page) hit the runway with a silk-satin, tartan plaid parka trimmed in fur. Finished with shiny black stockings and flat, silk-faille ballet slippers, it’s a striking, spirited, practical approach to going out From the collection at The Gazebo

THE LOOK? WRAP IT UP Sumptuous wraps: capes, stoles, and ponchos are a major trend and the preferred finish in almost every collection for both day and evening. By day, these run the gamut from Hudson Bay blanket looks and Southwestern-inspired ponchos to sophisticated capelets and big tartan shawls. But for after dark, precious metals, exquisite embroidery, and sky’s-the-limit embellishments are the preferred finish as a finishing layer over a jacket or coat, or wrapping up bare shoulders and an elegant gown. Victor Costa delineates an eloquent evening wrap in gold embroidered damask and black velvet. From the collection at Victor Costa Boutique, Dallas. Paisley silk-velvet bustier gown from Anne Klein Dresses, available at Neiman Marcus.

THE LOOK ? GIRLS WILL BE BOYS The idea is to mimic the form and function of a good man’s jacket: boxy, square-shouldered, practical, and just right pulled on over almost anything. The news is not tailoring the jacket, the sweater, or any of the top half to fit, but snugging up the stretch pant, the tights, the skirl, focusing on the leg, so it’s obviously a woman under there. Charlotte Neuville pushes the point with her nubby burgundy wool “Boyfriend” jacket, aqua chub sweater, mustard shirt and short skirt (left), and curry mohair knit “Boyfriend” sweater over okra wool whipcord pants To order from the collection at Stanley Korshak.

SIMPLE silhouettes borrowed from his closet, but better, made big impact on Seventh Avenue and should play well here at home. The seasonal penchant for bold, solid color-on-color makes it work, along with short, shorter, shortest hair, or long hair caught back in a simple twisted braid, simple makeup. The ubiquitous flat suede shoe or boot and same-color tights that make one continuous colored leg are a must.

THE LOOK ? STRONG SOLIDS

Gordon Henderson’s lively, well-bred separates team up and stand out this sea-son: the terra cotta gab-ardine trench coat over an olive gabardine waistcoat, green/white cotton shirt, and brown knife-pleated wool skirt Collection available at Stanley Korshak, Neiman Marcus.

CHIC SPORTS make headlines this fall: sportswear thatmight have been taken from an elitist edition of Field & Stream was dramatic on the runway and should translate to Dallas with ease. An equestrian’s jodhpurs and riding jacket, thigh-high suede boots and leggings, a silk version of a fisherman’s pouched vest, and an urban edition of the parka, quilted and chic in silk to replace or top a traditional jacket, are fall signals that it’s a brave new day.

THE LOOK ? THOROUGHBREDS

At Calvin Klein, we found some of the season’s most luxurious, most desirable clothes: anything but strait-laced cashmeres-bronze heather turtleneck tunic, pant, and generous ribbed shawl and (right) the olive cotton twill jodhpurs, a citron cashmere turtleneck, and ribbed muffler (available at the Calvin Klein Boutique, Bloommgdalés, Saks Fifth Avenue) -and the seasons requisite parka -relaxed, quilted, must-have. Available at the Calvin Klein Boutique. Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdalés.