Goodbye; farewell; so long; au revoir; auf Wiedersehen; I’m out of here, bound for a new post as a staff writer for Washing-tonian magazine. Amid the bustle of moving away, last times have been on my mind: last time to see friends, last time to eat in beloved restaurants, and last time to answer questions from readers.
You’re a communicative bunch, and it’s been a pleasure corresponding and talking with you-most of you, anyway. So this month, for old time’s sake, instead of considering restaurant newcomers in this space, I’d like to answer the questions that readers have posed most frequently during my tenure as D’s restaurant critic.
Can you recommend a restaurant that’s romantic and private enough to propose in?
Who says romance is dead? This is the question readers have asked me most often. If you can cook, there’s no place like home for popping the question. Only there are you absolutely assured of no ill-timed interruptions. If vou can’t cook, I recommend the Mansion on Turtle Creek, if your sweetie is of a traditional bent, or San Simeon, for the more post-modernly inclined. Wherever you end up, it’s a good idea to request banquette seating-much more romantic than a table in the middle of the fray-and to alert the staff beforehand so that they can be extra discreet.
Where can I go for a great breakfast?
I hate to hammer this recommendation to death, but nobody does it better than The Dream Café. However, these days so many people have agreed with me that the place is usually mobbed during peak weekend breakfast hours, creating non-dream-like waits. Therefore, it’s advisable either to breakfast very early or very late, or to view the experience as an opportunity to practice Zen-like patience.
What’s the best French restaurant in town?
There is no single answer to this question. The French Room, L’Entrecote, and the Riviera are all wonderful, in their different ways. The French Room serves the most classic, formal cuisine of the three; L’Entrecote is the most imaginative; and the Riviera is the place to go for the fare of the south of France.
Where should I take out-of-town visitors?
A nice one-two punch is Routh Street Cafe and Sonny Bryan’s. Both are unique to Dallas, and together they suggest the range of possibilities (and price tags) that dining in Dallas offers.
Where can I eat at 4 o’clock in the morning?
Your best bet is Taco Cabana, which currently has two local locations. Prices are low, and quality is high (with the exception of the regular enchiladas, which are psychedelically hued and covered with an unpleasantly textured gravy).
How do you stay thin in your line of work?
By finishing off only those items on my plate that are transcendentally delicious and by hauling my reluctant body to aerobics classes three times a week, no matter what.
How can I become a restaurant critic?
Everyone who eats out is a self-styled restaurant critic. The question is how to make a profession of it. Craig Claiborne once told me that restaurant critics should attend the Culinary Institute of America. There are also those who suggest apprenticing oneself to a top-notch French chef. However, many critics, including me, are self-taught.
Here is my suggested course of home study: first, read the complete works of Robert Farrar Capon, Elizabeth David, and M.F.K. Fisher, to obtain a grounding in how to think about food. Next, spend a few years obsessively cooking, so that you have an idea of what chefs are up against. After this, you’re ready to begin eating out in as many good restaurants in as many different places as you can manage. Now you have a context for judging gastronomic excellence and you’re ready to find a publication to employ you to continue your research. Happy eating, and write when you find work.
RESTAURANTS
AMERICAN
Baby Routh ★★★★★ I hear a lot of criticism of Baby Routh. but my last meal at Routh Street Cafe’s infant sibling was innovative, satisfying, and beyond reproach: oysters on the half shell with Southwestern mignonette; Caesar salad with cumin and cayenne-garlic croutons; quail with chipotles. wild rice-pecan salad, and mango-serrano dressing; and the hall-of-fame banana split with fresh berries and macadamia nuts. That just leaves one question: what is it about Southwestern cuisine that requires every dish to be hyphenated? 2708 Routh, 871-2345. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 6-11; lale-night menu Thur-Sat 11 pm-1 am; brunch Sal & Sun 11:30-3. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
Beau Nash ★★★★★ As the months have gone by, Beau Nash has come into its own identity, and its virtues seem more and more apparent. For one thing, it keeps late hours- at least by Dallas standards-and does so every night. For another, it’s a lively, entertaining hangout. And Last but not least, the menu has been astutely adjusted, although not completely overhauled. Happily, the smoked salmon pizza- the perfect partner to champagne-survived. Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney. 871-3240. Breakfast Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 7-10:30; lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 6:30 pm-11:30 pm; Sun brunch 11-2:15. All credit cards. Expensive.
Horn’s ★★★★★ In most cities, hotel restaurants are bad news. In Dallas, hotel restaurants offer some of the best food in town. Blom’s definitely falls in this praiseworthy category. The menu keeps changing-recently to include such standouts as breast of duckling with sweet cherry pecan sauce-but the quality is constant. Westin Hotel, Calleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. Expensive.
Bronx ★★★ Top-notch burgers, omelettes, and daily specials are the attraction at this long-time Cedar Springs hangout. Happy news: Frank Woods, who was chef during the Bronx’s glory days of the early Eighties, has returned. 3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-3; dinner Mon-Sat 5-11:30; Sun brunch U-3. MC. V. AE. Inexpensive.
City Cafe ★★★★★ City Cafe’s innovative yet reassuringly homey menu (which changes every Wednesday) continues to be one of the best in town in terms of quality-to-price ratio. A recent dinner was nearly flawless: the mixed garden salad: jambalaya with ham. oysters, shrimp. and andouille sausage; chocolate quiche with shortbread crust; and crème brulée with a coconut cookie crust were all they should have been. 5757 W Lovers Lane (just west of Dallas N Tollway). 351-2233. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE. Moderate.
Deep Ellum Cafe ★★★ This charming, unassuming little restaurant is the best thing to happen to Deep Ellum in some time. The scallop pie isn’t a pie by any definition 1 know of-it’s a group of scallops served in a shell with garlic. cream, and a bread crumb topping. The pasta options-including an appetizer of ricotta- and spinach-filled ravioli with walnut sauce-are good, if not quite good enough. The smarter money is on the chicken with dill dumplings and the sandwiches-including a most appealing seafood club sandwich with crab and shrimp salad on grilled sourdough. 2704 Elrn. 741-9012. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30pm; dinner Tue-Thur 6 pm-midnight. Fri & Sat 6 pm-1 am. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
Laurels ★★★★ Two things that usually bode ill krone’s prospects, of eating well in a restaurant are height and association with a hotel. Laurels, located on the twentieth floor of the Sheraton Park Central, is an exception to both caveats. The menu dégustation, with a fixed price of $38.50, changes daily and is a good bet. A la carte choices are expensive, but choices like Maine lobster, wild mushrooms. and basil with fettuccine and masted pheasant with green apple pasta and blue cheese sauce are well worth the tariff. Desserts are killers here, especially the souffle of the day (apricot with raspberry sauce on my visit). Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit Dr. 851-2021. Mon-Sat 6:30 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.
The Mansion on Turtle Creek ★★★★★ What never seems to change at the Mansion is its historic beauty and top-of-the-line service. What docs change is the menu. Now it’s printed daily, the better to accommodate changing offerings according to season-and the creative inspiration of Dean Fearing. Regulars tend to opt for whatever appears on any given day; diners for whom the Mansion is a relatively rare experience may prefer to sample such classics as the peerless tortilla soup; Louisiana crab cakes with a sauce of smoked chilies. lobster, and blood orange; and crème brulée with raspberry sauce for dessert. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room-jackets and ties required. Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper Mon-Thur 10:30 pm-midnight. Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight. Promenade Room-breakfast daily 7 am-11 am; tea Mon-Fri 2-5 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.
Margaux Natural ★★★★★ Lite is full of surprises, and most of them are nasty, but some are very nice indeed. Margaux Natural fells into the latter category When 1 heard that spa cuisine (low-calorie, low-cholesterol fere) was going to be served in the former location of Cafe Margaux, I was able to control my enthusiasm, given the spa cuisine I’ve tasted before in a number of other venues. All it took was one lunch and one dinner at Margaux Natural to make a believer of me: the food-the menu changes weekly, but I can vouch for the green endive and oak leaf salad, grilled rainbow trout, black bean soup, and the homemade pasta-is so sensually appealing that it’s hard to believe it’s also good for you. However, the way you fee! after a meal here-energetic as opposed to leaden-is incontrovertible proof of that. 4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886 Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Moderate.
McKinney & Knox ★★★ This geographically named restautant has improved since its opening. Though the menu still attempts too many things to do them all well, portions are huge, prices are reasonable, and there are plenty of good choices here: the house salad (with jicama, mushrooms, red pepper slices, and grated cheese), onion rings, and FOB (fell off the bone) pork ribs. Outside, an old mesquite tree presides over the forty-five al fresco seats. 4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. MC, V AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
Routh Street Cafe ★★★★★ Routh Street Cafe’s formula for national gastronomic lame: Stephan Pyles’s New Southwestern Cuisine; a sleek, Tonny Foy-desjgned setting; and snappy, congenial service. The five-course, fixed-price menu ($42. with surcharges for certain items) is printed daily, but certain items-such as commeal catfish with smoked peppermint marigold sauce, lobster enchilada with red pepper creme fraiche, lamb with pecan and garlic sauce, berry buckle with cinnamon ice cream, and apple-walnut spice cake-have become near-fixtures. When food-obsessed travelers come to town, this is the reservation they want This means prime-time reservations should be made well in advance. 3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. Expensive.
San Simeon ★★★★★ Richard Chamberlain’s food matches the splendor of San Simeon’s service and its subtly, weirdly wonderful, post-modern Egyptian interior. (Keep your eye on the lighting; it changes over the course of a meal.) Pick hits include a chowder of corn, wild rice, and duck sausage: chilled bow-tie pasta and prosciutto with sage walnut pesto: and Romano-crusted veal with angel-hair pasta and tomato sauce. 2515 McKinney at Fairmount in Chateau Plaza. 871-7373. Lunch Mon-Fri11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Expensive.
BAKERIES
D REVISITS
La Madeleine ★★★★ The best croissants in town are a draw for breakfast all year round, but as the weather gets cooler, lunch and dinner a! La Madeleine look more and more appealing. That’s because of the soul-warming vegetable soups that only the French can produce. Follow your potage with a sandwich, and chances are that you won’t be able to do justice to dessert, so perhaps a soup-accompanying salad is a better idea. 3072 Mockingbird, 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. Daily 7 am-9 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.
Massimo Da Milano ★★★★ If there’s a bad item available at this attractive Italian bakery/café, I’ve yet to discover it despite exhaustive research. Although the changing pizza, pasta, and salad offerings are always alluring, more often than not 1 find myself opting for the focaccia sandwich, round flat bread filled with ham, cheese, leaf lettuce, and tomato slices. For dessert, there are any number of pastries to choose from, but nothing suits a cup of espresso better than the little amaretri cookies. These days. service for the cafeteria-style service line ranges from disorganized to efficient, which is an improvement over days past, when disjointed to chaotic were the applicable adjectives. 5519 W Lovers Lane. 351-1426. Mon-Thur 9 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 9 am-11 pm. Sun 9-9. MC. V. AE Inexpensive.
BARBECUE
Sonny Bryan’s ★★★★ Accompanied by the last two Sonny Bryan’s virgins in town, 1 headed for Sonny’s on a cool day-pointing out that the wood smoke and patrons eating from the hoods of their vehicles are essential elements of the experience. Reviewing ethics compelled us to order different things, but the wisdom of sticking to the awe-inspiring sliced beef sandwich was reconfirmed by the scorched ribs, rubbery sliced ham. and ho-hum beans. However, that sandwich alone is sufficient to earn Sonny’s its stars. 2202 1nwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 atn-3 pm. Sun 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.
BURGERS
Snuffer’s ★★★ Some days nothing but a burger and fries will do, and on those days, very often nothing but Snuffer’s will do. The burgers are fat but not absurdly so, cooked perfectly to order, and the fries are crusty wonders (one order provides enough for three or four people). The only problem with this program is mis: Snuffer’s is so darned popular that waiting for a table and/or your order to arrive can be frustrating. 3526 Greenville. 826-6850. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 11:30am-2 am. Alt credit cards. Inexpensive.
CAJUN
Arcadia Bar ★★★★ First things first: the Arcadia Bar has nothing to do with the Arcadia Theater, which is across the street. The Arcadia Bar is a no-frills hangout. (The music is mostly recorded, though there is sometimes a pianist.) The menu is small, mostly Cajun, and ail deftly executed. From a perky green salad to perfect fried oysters to New Orleans-quality dirty rice, the food is first-rate. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Daily 5 pm-2 am. MC. V, AE. Inexpensive.
Cafe Margaux ★★★★ Maybe it’s taking Cafe Margaux a while to settle into its new, larger location, but my East couple of meals here, though still well worth eating, weren’t as scintillating as meals past at the Lovers Lane location (which is now occupied by the altogether wonderful Margaux Natural). In any case, this is still the best place in town to chow down on Cajun classics such as crawfish etoufée, as well as hybrid creations such as crawfish and shrimp enchiladas con queso. 3710 Rawlins. 520-1985. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-11. Fri & Sat 5:30-mid-nighl. Alt credit cards. Moderate.
CHINESE
August Moon ★★★★ On a recent visit to the original Addison August Moon (there are now clones in Piano and Arlington, too), the food shone much more brightly than on previous visits. Whatever the reason, the results were impressive enough to make me look forward to a return trip. Steamed pot stickers, pork dumplings that are the Oriental version of ravioli, were simultaneously light and satisfying-and much more interesting than the standard-issue egg rolls. Lamb and prawns Hunan-style was a blast of heated flavor, which was a nice contrast to the refined tang of lemon chicken. 15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. Moderate.
Chin Big Wong ★★★ Dim sum seekers flock here during peak lunch hours on weekends, so expect a wait, and expect it to be worth it. Carts of goodies roll by: steamed dumplings, sate beef sticks, shrimp toast, spring rolls, baked barbecue pork buns. Most plates are $1.50, and will provide tastes for three people. 9243 Skillman. 343-0545. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 10 am-11 pm, Sun 10am-10:30 pm. MC. V. AE. Inexpensive.
Crystal Pagoda ★★★★ One of the oddest facts of dining in Dallas is that although there are more Chinese restaurants around than any other kind, we don’t have a single one that approaches the greatness of, say, New York’s Siu Lam Kung. Crystal Pagoda doesn’t match that standard, but it’s as good as Chinese food gets in Dallas-which is quite good. The shredded beef Szechwan-style and the moo shu pork are two especially good choices here. The service and setting are both extremely pleasant. 4516 McKinney. 526-3355. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-I0:30pm. Fri 11:30 am-11 pm. Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-!0:30pm. MC, V. AE. Moderate.
Dynasty ★★★★ This relatively formal Chinese restaurant, despite its unlikely location adjacent to a motel, is among the best in the area-admittedly, a backhanded compliment given Dallas’s dearth of truly great Chinese food. On a recent visit, decent shrimp rolls and spring rolls were followed by indecently good rainbow chicken (julienned chicken, snow peas, red pepper, and Mung bean sprouts) and the equally praiseworthy, if oddly named, silver gourd savoury (shrimp, green peppers, straw mushrooms, and water chestnuts). Orange beef was too fatty, as it tends to be in Chinese restaurants all over town. Garden Inn, 4101 Belt Line. Addison. 385-7888. Sun-Thur 11:30 am- 10:30pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Henry Chen’s ★★★★ This new Chinese restaurant is one of the best-looking Chinese restaurants Dallas has seen. Of course, pretty is as pretty does, and Henry Chen’s acquits itself honorably on that front: the food, to judge from orange beef and chicken with snow peas, is significantly above average, if not quite as noteworthy as the decor. 3701 W Northwest Hwy. Suite 180. 956-9560. Mon-Thur 11 am-t0:30pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Hong Kong Royale ★★★ Being the only non-Orientals in the room makes Chinese food fans of Western descent very happy. This was the case when I forced a friend to accompany me to the wilds of Richardson in search of great Chinese. The dim sum that we had heard enthusiastic reports on wasn’t available, so the jury’s still out on whether this restaurant is the answer to the prayers of exiled New Yorkers who search the Metroplex For the Chinese food they remember. However, a standard lunch of chicken with almonds and shredded pork with garlic sauce was very satisfying. What’s more, the pastel-hued decor at Hong Kong Royale is unusually pretty. Plainly, this place warrants further exploration. 221 W Post, Richardson. 238-8888. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat A Sun 10 am-11 pm. All credit cards-Inexpensive.
May Dragon ★★★★ The food and service are as distinctive-and as commendable-as the post-modern decor at this Addison entry in the local Chinese restaurant sweepstakes. I’ve tried a raft of food here-from steamed dumplings to the whimsically named Penguin’s Double Happiness, which involves shrimp and chicken, not penguin- and never been less than happy. 4848 Belt Line at Inwood. 392-9998. Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-11, Sat 11:30-11, Sun 11:30-10:30. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
Plum Blossom ★★★★ The elegant Plum Blossom has a new chef, and Steve Chiang’s work was very impressive on a recent visit. From appetizers of crispy five-spice quail and paper shrimp to main courses of knockout Peking duck, subtly gratifying bird’s nest chicken with pine nuts, and crispy whole catfish (looks frightening, tastes great), dinner was phenomenally good. And dessert-jasmine sorbet and rice ice cream with candied apple and kiwi sauce-was the best I’ve ever had in a Chinese restaurant. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Fwy. 748-/200. Mon-Sat 6pm-10:30 pm. Jackets required. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.
Szachwan Pavilion ★★★ With its sophisticated peach and gray color scheme, Szechwan Pavilion is an aesthetic knockout. At its best, the food very nearly lives up to the setting. The spring rolls-crisp wonton wrappers punctuated by shrimp, sprouts, and carrot shreds-are musts to order. After that, kung pao shrimp with red pepper and peanuts might be in order. Two dishes to avoid: dry, nearly tasteless hot spicy lobster sautéed with ginger in chili sauce, and chicken chow mein with canned, as opposed to fresh, mushrooms. Prices are a bit higher here than at most local Chinese restaurants, but one can see, in such touches as the exotic lilies on the tables, where the surcharge is going. 8411 Preston, Suite 132 at Northwest Highway. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11. Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate to expensive.
Uncle Tal’s Hunan Yuan ★★★★ Uncle Tai’s is the highest of high-end Chinese options in town. For prices consistently higher than any other Chinese restaurant in town, the customer gets such off-the-beaten-path dishes as sautéed sliced pheasant, frog’s legs with gingko nuts, and sliced duck with young ginger roots. The quality of ingredients is very high, although the level of saltiness continues to be problematic. Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. Expensive.
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Actuelle ★★★★ If I had a chapeau to hand, I would eat it. As it is, I’ll have to settle for ingesting my words. When 1 first reviewed Actuelle, I found it off-putting and said so. However, as the months passed, and reliable sources continued to file reports of formidable meals at Actuelle, I revisited for lunch and dinner and found my sources to be correct. Although breast of Long Island duck with angel-hair pasta was on the fatty side, everything else, including tortilla soup with smoked chicken and serrano chilies and a dessert of apple-almond custard torte with caramel sauce, ranged from remarkably good to perfect. Service is excellent, and the setting is austerely attractive. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. 855-0440. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Expensive.
Café Royal ★★★★ Romance may be invaluable, but a romantic dinner shouldn’t cost more than a used car. Cafe1 Royal’s $34.50 fixed-price dinner, which changes daily, is reasonably priced and, thanks to the lovely setting and skillful service, unreasonably romantic. The run-down on one night’s uniformly well-prepared options: an appetizer of a salad with quail breast or an artichoke bottom with lobster ragout and caviar butter sauce; a green salad or red-wine sorbet; an entree of sliced loin of lamb with wild mushrooms and a shallot and sage sauce or fillet of John Dory with angel-hair pasta and lemon thyme sauce; and a choice of dessert. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 979-9000. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. Expensive.
Chez Gérard ★★★ Now that Calluaud has laid down its life to become a parking lot for the Hard Rock Cafe, it’s a safe bet that former Calluaud regulars will be joining the already healthy crowds at Chez Gerard (which is also a Guy and Martine Calluaud operation). The highlights of my most recent dinner checkup visit were topflight treatments of sauté]ed lamb chop with parsley and garlic and floating island (poached meringue floating atop vanilla custard). Shrimp rémoulade, cassoulet (a stew of white beans and sausage that Francophiles adore and the less reverent refer to as the Gallic version of beans and weenies), and crème caramel were less distinguished, but still well within Chez Gerard’s range of dependable quality. 4444 McKinney. 522-6865. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.
The French Room ★★★★ With its cherubs, vaulted ceiling, and trompe I’oeil garden, the rosy-hued French Room is far and away the most baroque-looking restaurant in Dallas. In the five years since its opening, it has had its culinary ups and downs; happily, however, a recent visit suggested that it is in an up cycle. From salads (green bean and green salad with goat cheese croutons) to entrees (salmon and rack of lamb) to dessert (apple tart), the food was all that one could ask for. What’s more, the sommelier is both congenial and well informed: he is as happy to advise customers on a single glass of wine as a rare bottle. Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. Expensive.
The Grape ★★★★ The Grape’s setting-dark as a candle-lit dungeon, with red-checked tablecloths and touches of vinous kitsch-makes it an ideal hangout for Lower Greenville’s resident Bohemian yuppies. The Grape paraphernalia displayed near the door-including T-shirts and a cookbook-suggests that what we have here is not so much a restaurant as a way of life. Although The Grape still serves the cheese and paté offerings that were its specialty when it opened in 1972, pasta and fish specials are the ticket these days. 2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 828-1981. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnighi. All credit cards. Moderate.
Left Bank ★★★★ The left bank in question is that of the Trinity River, and the restaurant in question is the best thing to hit Oak Cliff since the viaduct from downtown. The food is simple, French-influenced, and changes every day. On the weekend, all of Oak Cliff wants to be here, so reservations are essential. 408 N Bishop, Suite 104. 948-1630. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. No credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
L’Entrecote ★★★★ After a long sliding spell,L’Entre-cote has, as the French say, pulled up its socks. Thanks to the efforts of chef Michel Platz, the Loews Anatole’s French restaurant is once again one of the best in the city. Watercress and endive salad with pink grapefruit was an exceptionally refreshing appetizer. Gratin of crawfish tails with ginger was light and satisfying, and loin of lamb with rosemary and shallot coulis was a must for lamb fans. Finally, dessert-banana beignets with coconut mousse-was a killer. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Wed-Mon 6-10:30 pm. Closed Tue. Jackets required. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.
Old Warsaw ★★★ Apparently, Old Warsaw isn’t moving to LTV Center after all, so I decided a visit to the current location was in order. The granddaddy-make that grand-père-of big-deal dining in Dallas was as romantic as ever. “Why do I feel like 1 should propose or something?” was the question of my escort. It could have been the low lights, the banquette seating, the violin and piano duo playing requests. It probably wasn’t the food, which, on average, was nothing special. The low point was an appetizer special of overly oniony crawfish in puff pastry; the high point was crepes Suzette (an unjustly out-of-fashion dessert). 2610 Maple. 528-0032. Mon-Thur 6 pm-10 pm Fri & Sal 6 pm-!0:30pm. ClosedSun. All credit cards. Very expensive.
The Riviera ★★★★★ I have attended Grateful Dead concerts that were quieter than the Riviera on a Saturday night, but minor hearing loss is a small price to pay for first-rate food in a charming setting. A green salad was nicely set off by sherry vinaigrette, and came with a delectable goat cheese crouton. Sun-dried tomato and smoked bell pepper soup was satisfying, if heavy on the bacon. Norwegian salmon and sea scallops steamed with white wine and served with a light rosemary sauce was one of the best treatments of salmon I’ve ever tasted. And duck breast with lavender and honey sauce was worthwhile, too. For dessert the Grand Marnier crème brulée was outshone by the ethereally light apple tart with almond cream and caramel sauce. 7709 In-wood. 351-0094. Sun-7hur 6:30 pm-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPE
Bohemla ★★★★ Have you heard the one about Czech food? A week later and you’re hungry again. At Bohemia, the attraction is sturdy Eastern European food-like Wiener schnitzel, pork roast, and bread dumplings-served in delicately charming surroundings (lace curtains, tulip lamps). Two bonuses: the by-the-glass wines are well chosen, and service is efficient and unobtrusive. With one notable exception (being under a quilt with your sweetie), there is no better place than Bohemia to be on a nippy day. 2810-N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Moderate.
Hofstetter’s ★★★★ Tucked away in the Plaza at Bach-man Creek, Hofstetter’s is a Viennese jewel. Here, in a setting that leads one to expect nothing more than sandwich-shop fare, some of the best Germanic cuisine in the area is served. Sandwiches, coffees, and desserts are listed on the menu, but the real action is on the blackboard, which lists the daily specials. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W North-west Hwy. 358-7660. Mon 11 am-2:30pm, Tue A Thur 11 am-9:30 pm; Hid, Fri, A Sat 11 am-10 pm. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
GREEK
Little Gus’ ★★★ Little Gus’ is the Clark Kent of Dallas restaurants. During the day, it’s a mild-mannered greasy spoon serving breakfast and burgers. At night it steps into a phone booth and turns into.. .super Greek restaurant. The moussaka and spanakopita are especially commendable. 1916 Greenville. 826-4910 American menu Mon-Sat 7:30 am-4 pm: Greek menu Mon-Thur 6 pm-10 pm; Fri A Sat 6 pm-11 pm; Sun brunch 9 am-l:45 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive.
INDIAN
Akbar ★★★★ Old India hands will want to thoroughly explore the byways of this restaurant’s menus. That’s plural-there are two of them, the regular menu and the snack bar menu. Although the regular nenu is praiseworthy, it is Akbar’s snack bar that conclusively sets it apart from its peers. Snack-bar highlights include aloo tikki, grilled potato cutlets with curried chickpeas; samosa, tender turnovers stuffed with herbed potatoes and peas; and malai kofta, curry, cheese, and vegetable dumplings in a cream and almond sauce. 2115 Promenade Center at Coit & Belt Line mads. 235-0260. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 a n-2pm, dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri A Sat 5:30-10:30. Sat & Sun brunch 11:30-2:30 MC, V. AE. inexpensive.
Curry In, Curry Out ★★★★ Love the name. Also love (he food and the prices. This charming little family-run establishment may be somewhat spartan in appearance, but it is immaculate, and the food that emerges from the kitchen is well worth a trip to Garland, even if you don’t live nearby. One more incentive: prices are shockingly low. If you’re serious about Indian food. Curry In. Curry Out is required eating. As the name suggests, meals may be eaten in or carried out. Northwest Crossing Shopping Center, I250-C Northwest Highway 681-0087. Tue-Thur 11 am-9pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sal noon-10 pm, Sun noon 9 pm. Closed Mon. MC, V. Inexpensive.
India Palace ★★★ I’ve given up on keeping track of the shifting, intricate lineage of who owns which local Indian restaurants, but it doesn’t matter, because they’re all quite good at the moment. India Palace is no exception to this genera! rule of excellence. Whether you order a la carte or opt for the weekend buffet brunch, you ’11 be happy with the food here. India Palace’s exceptionally thoughtful service is a bonus. 13360 Preston. 392-0190. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun noon-3: dinner Sun-Thur 5:30 pm-10pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
ITALIAN
Alesslo’s ★★★ If you’re not happy with your meal at Alessio’s, it will only be because you have failed to apprise the ever-watchful Alessio Franceschetti of any problems. Happily, on a recent visit, there were no problems to report. Crab cannelloni, an appetizer of the day, was estimable enough to warrant on-the-menu status Shrimp provencal, with mushrooms and tomatoes, was quite good, if not as seductive. The subtly dressed romaine lettuce salad that accompanied entées was simple perfection. Linguine with shrimp and scallops in a delicately spicy tomato sauce was agreeable, though not as meritorious as the perfectly breaded veal parmigiana accompanied by buttered, pars lied mostaccioli. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Tue-Sat 6-I0:30 pm, Sun & Mon 6-10pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate to expensive.
LaTosca ★★★ This chic, minimalist restaurant was designed by the late Perry Bentley, and it still looks as fresh in I987 as it did when it opened in 1981 . The food has also worn well, especially the state-of-the-art tortellini and veal scallopine with lemon sauce. 7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Sun & Tue-Thur 6 pm-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.
Lombardl’s ★★★★★ This newest Lumbardi establishment replaces the ill-fated Pucci in Travis Walk. The menuis identical to and the decor similar to 311 Lombardi’s; thedifference is in execution. Possibly because the new Lombardi’s hasn’t been swamped-yet-by seekers of Italian-style good vibrations, it’s as close to perfect an Italianrestaurant as Dallas has seen. One route to gustatory happiness: Caesar salad, veal-filled tortelloni gilded with a but-ter sauce, and superb cappuccino. Travis Walk. 4514 Travis.521-1480 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri& Sat 5:30-midnight. Sun 5:30-10 All credit cards.Moderate.
Lombardi’s Expresso ★★★★ (This takeout/eat-in bakery/café. like Massimo da Milano before it, allows the consumer to eat when and how he or she chooses, There are cold and hot pastas, design-your-own pizzas (artichoke hearts, proscuitto, and goat cheese make a nice trio), sandwiches made with rosemary-topped foccacia bread, and more desserts than you can shake a stick at. The menu changes from day to day (always a good sign), and the numerous things I tasted were consistently quite good. 6135 Luther Lane. 361-6984. Mon-Sat 8 am-9pm. MC. V AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
D REVISITS
Momo’s ★★★ Momo’s has expanded and if bigger in this case doesn’t mean better, it also doesn’t mean worse. Which is to say that the food is the same as ever: quite good, if not quite as earth shaking as members of Momo’s fanatical following believe. The pizzas and pi pastas are especially noteworthy. 9191 Forest Lane. 234-6890 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-l:30 pm; dinner Mon-Thur 5:45-9:30 pm, Fri 5:30-11 pm. Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:15-9pm. Reservations recom-mended. MC, V. Moderate.
Nero’s Italian ★★★ The food is good enough here, but it isn’t great, and it certainly doesn’t come cheap. What, then, accounts for the two-hour waits on weekends? I suspect it’s that ol’ debbil ambience. Nero’s is made to order for dates or get-reacquainted-with-your-spouse sessions, at least if your date or spouse is a stylish, ironic character. (Diana Vreeland and Catholic-school veterans should feel particularly at home here because of the red walls and the Michael the Archangel lamps.) There is an extensive menu of pasta. veal, and seafood, but the two things to concentrate on are the Italian wine-the selection is great, and the staff well informed-and the pizza, which comes in both traditional and New Wave varieties. 2104 Greenville. 826-6376. Mon-Thur 6-11 pm, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V AE. Moderate.
D REVISITS
Ristorante Savino ★★★ Everything on the menu at Savino is a good bet, but I never can resist the vitello ton-tiato (roasted veal sliced and served cold with tuna sauce-a dish that, trust me, tastes much better than it sounds). The less-than-breathtaking setting is more than offset by the warm service. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Sun-Thur 6 pm-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.
Ruggeri’s ★★★ Ruggeri’s belongs in the upper tier of Italian restaurants in Dallas. The lunch menu is too limited for my taste, but dinner more than makes up for that shortcoming. Although I have yet to order anything at Ruggeri’s that blew me away, neither have I ended up with anything- pasta or veal-that was less than acceptable. 2911 Routh. 871-7377. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-11:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.
Sardo’s ★★★★ If you’re feeling low, a visit to Sardo’s is in order. Pasta is wonderful here, and the breaded veal cutlet with wilted greens is a close competitor. Plaza on Bachman Creek, 3802 W Northwest Hwy. 351-4378. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-11 pm, Sat 5 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
311 Lombardi’s ★★★★ What is the Italian translation of ’”good karma”? Our waiter didn’t know, but 311 Lombar-di’s has achieved it. Here, surrounded by the glow created by creamy apricot walls, happy hordes of downtown workers get what may well be the best Italian food in town at reasonable prices. No pasta was visible in the pasta and bean soup, but it was a hearty, herb-enlivened delight anyway. A pizza with leeks, pancetta, goat cheese, and mushrooms could have held its own against New York’s best. The next stop on the menu was good enough to be required eating for potato-philes; potato gnocchi with two sauces (tomato and irresistible gorgonzola). A tender, thin veal cutlet topped with arugula and diced tomatoes was simply immense. Dessert of raspberry ice cream and respectable espresso rounded off a repast that was pure pleasure from start to finish. 311 Market. 747-0322. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri 11 am-1 am. Sat 5 pm-1 am. Sun 5-10pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Trattoria Lombard ★★★ This is now the oldest extant Lombardi’s location, and even if it’s not quite as pretty as its successors in the West End and Travis Walk, it’s still a swell source for a good Italian meal. A recent lunch of green salad, tortellini, cannelloni, and manicotti was pleasing, if not earth-shattering. The house red wine could use some work, though. 2916 N Hall. 528-7506 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Moderate.
JAPANESE/KOREAN
Mr. Sushi ★★★★ It’s all raw fish to me, but a number of my friends are dedicated seekers of sushi, and the most serious of them swears by Mr. Sushi. My friend was moved by the “sushi B” dinner-tuna, white meat fish, yellowtail, jumbo clam, shrimp, salmon, smelt egg, salmon egg, cooked egg, and tuna roll-and I was appeased by the sautéed soft-shell crab and perfect shrimp tempura. 4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun5:30-10 All credit cards. Moderate.
Mr. Sushi & Hibachi ★★★★ Mr. Sushi’s original location is one of the favorite stops of local seekers of raw fish. This new establishment also includes a hibachi room for those in quest of Benihana-type slice-and-dice grilled thrills. On my visit I unintentionally ended up on the hibachi side, where the food was uninspired. However, my sushi scouts report that the sushi here is as terrific as at (he original Mr. Sushi. 9220 Skillman, Suite 227. 349-6338. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. Alt credit cards. Moderate to expensive.
Shogun ★★★ Shogon serves commendable versions of the standards of Japanese cuisine-lightly battered tempura, juicy teriyaki chicken, and fresh-tasting sushi. The only element of the reasonably priced lunch that took me aback was the unidentified soup. For all I know, it was superb by the standards of the East, but it resembled primordial ooze from my Occidental viewpoint. This restaurant is exceptionally pleasant, thanks to the quietly efficient service. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-1:45; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. Moderate.
LUNCH
City Market ★★★★ City Market has acquired a loyal following of downtown habitue’s hungry for fresh, imaginative soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts. However, in the past the pleasures of this light, airy, upscale cafeteria were unpredictable. If, for instance, you loved the marigold mint chicken salad, it might be weeks before you and it were on the premises on the same day. Now, with the advent of menus printed every week. City Market regulars can predict with assurance when it will tie possible to eat pasta salad with Indonesian peanut sauce or marinated beef salad with multi-colored bell peppers. Whatever else you get, the light, soufflé-like apricot-raisin bread pudding should not be missed. 200 LTV Center. 2001 Ross at Harwood. 979-2690. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm. MC, V. Inexpensive.
Pacific Express ★★★★ Pacific Express, a chic eighty-eight-seat cafeteria, makes the hasty downtown lunch into an art form. I happen to be obsessed with the tuna salad with toasted almonds, grapes, and blue cheese in tarragon mayon-naise, but the smoked chicken salad with toasted walnuts and shallot vermouth mayonnaise has its devotees, too. Other choices include pasta salad, wild rice salad, and several sandwiches. Pacific Place Bldg, 1910 Elm, Suite 103. 968- 7447. Mon-Fri 8 am-10 am & 11 am-2pm-Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive,
MEXICAN
Antonio’s ★★★ Although one has to order with care to assure hitting the highlights, Antonio’s is worth a trip for anyone serious about Mexican food. Recommended: nachos, which are made with first-class ingredients (black beans, white cheese, fresh-tasting guacamole, jalapenos, and real, runny sour cream), rich-tasting black bean soup, shrimp with a subtly nutty pumpkin-seed sauce, coconut flan, and merengue (whipped cream or chocolate ice cream sandwiched between two layers of egg-while pastry). 14849 Inwood (south of Bell Line). Addison. 490-9557 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2pm; dinner Mon-Thur 4:30 pm-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Cafe Cancún ★★★ Cafe Cancún was a Mexican food trailblazer in Dallas, one of the first to offer black beans and white cheese as an alternative to pintos and day-glow Cheddar In recent years, however, quality control was a problem, and many Cafe Cancún fans lost faith. Brethren, it is time to rejoin the fold: on a recent visit, everything-from the warm, fresh tostadas to the enchiladas verdes with chicken to the luscious coconut ice cream-was very good. 4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Cantlna Laredo ★★★★ A belief shared by many Mexican food enthusiasts hereabouts is that great Mex can only be found in grungy, time-wom establishments located in the vicinity of Maple Avenue. However, holding to this belief would mean missing out on Cantina Laredo, which is situated in a clean, new building in-yes-Addison. Standard Tex-Mex combinations are available here, and they’re quite good, but the comida casern-home-style food-is where the smart money is. Standouts include the tacos at pastor filled with marinated pork, cabrito (baby goat to you, gringo), mesquite-grilled shrimp with garlic butter, and red snapper with lime butter. 4546 Bell Line, Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.
Casa Rosa ★★★ This has long been a preppy hangout supreme, and in this instance those well-scrubbed WASPs in Ralph Lauren attire are on to something. From chili con queso to botanas especiales (bean, chicken, and beef nachos; marinated beef strips; and flautitas with sour cream and guacamole) to the Puerto Vallarta combination (beef taco, enchilada with chili con came, chicken enchilada with sour cream sauce, and Spanish rice) to praline cheesecake for dessert, everything (except for the underdone, too-tomatoey Spanish rice) was well prepared, if not in the forefront of culinary innovation. Inwood Village, Inwood as Lovers Lane, Suite 165. 350-5227. Mon-Thur 11 am 3 pm & 5-10 pm, Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat II am-11 pm, Sun 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Chito’s ★★★ A New Yorker I know loves Mexican food more than life itself. Chito’s on Maple is where I took her on her last stop in Dallas, and she found its funky setting (featuring tattered orange booths, window-unit air conditioning, and lime green and acid yellow walls) and low prices (guacamole has reached $7 in one Manhattan Mexican restaurant) inordinately satisfying. The food at Chito’s-especially the bean, cheese, and guacamole quesa-dillas-is good enough to please even native Dallasites, who are accustomed to the Tex-Mex way of life. 4447 Maple, 522-9166. Mon-Thur 9 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 9 am-4 am, Sun 9-9. MC, V. Inexpensive.
Garmo’s ★★★ Garmo’s does a better job with standard Tex-Mex than most of! its local peers. Its rice-a weak point at all but the most painstaking of establishments-is especially nice. Beware the spinach enchiladas, however; on two recent visits they have been dauntingly stringy to the point of requiring one more margarita to erase their memory. 2847 N Henderson. 828-9423. Daily 11 am-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.
Genaro’s ★★★ With its tropical art-deco look, Genaro’s is the prettiest place in town for margarita consumption. Happily, for the most part, the food matches the margaritas. Enchiladas Genaro, filled with snapper and crab meat, were extremely gratifying. And even if chicken with jalapeno and tomatillo cream sauce topped with pumpkin seeds arrived sans pumpkin seeds, the accompanying black beans and pea-studded rice were pleasing, anyway. And the coconui ice cream was lushly satisfying, as always. 5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30pm, Sun 11 am-11. All credit cards. Moderate.
Gloria’s ★★ Gloria’s is in our Mexican category because, technically, there is Mexican food available here. But the point of Gloria’s is the Salvadoran fare: tamales, pupusas, and a licuado du plantano (a plantain milkshake) for dessert. 600 W Davis. 948-3672. Tue-Thur 9 am-10 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-midnight. Closed Mon. No credit cards. Inexpensive.
Gonzales ★★ Here, for very little money, one can have a beer and hunker down in the dark wood-grain booths and achieve low-budgei Tex-Mex-style satori. This is not to say that there aren’t good things to cat available at Gonzales. There definitely are. but one needs to know the topography of the menu to find them. They are most notably the numerous varieties of burritos made with fat. lender flour tortillas; the bean and cheese and the potato and egg are two good choices for those in search of hangover cures that do not require as much machismo to ingest as menudo does. The drive-through window provides a good, fast option for on-the-rundiners. 4333Maple. 528-29601 Daily 7 am-9 pm. All credit cants. Inexpensive.
J-Pepe’s ★★★ J.Pepe’s Mexican food is a cut above most local Tex-Mexeries, and its setting is exceptionally pleasant. These two facts, plus the availability of outdoor seating (the local appetite for margaritas consumed en plein air it. apparently boundless), go far to explain the madding crowds found here on weekend nights. 2800 Routh. 871-0366. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-11. Fri 5:30-midnighi. Sat 11-midnight. Sun 11-11. MC V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Botica ★★ The mishmash of Dallasites who have found La Botica fit’s nearly hidden on Haskell Avenue about a mile east of Central) must like it for the same reasons 1 do: it’s casual, fairly quiet, and steeped in family-run friendliness. The food-Mexican staples with a hefty addition of beef dishes-is fine but rarely exciting. Particularly good: the tangy enchiladas verdes. the simple tacos, and the chicken soup. My otherwise happy visits met with two disappointments: the ho-hum and smallish came asada and La Botica’s tendency to be out of things 1 want to order. 1900 N Haskell, 824-2005. Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun and Mon. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Moderate.
Mario & Alberto ★★★ The standards of Mario Leal’s second restaurant don’t seem to have suffered with the opening of a third one-this popular North Dallas spot seemed as fine (and as busy) as ever. Among the main courses, the filete de la casa (tenderloin strongly flavored with garlic, accompanied by lightly fried potato slices) remains a favorite. Those who crave fejitas will find a relatively restrained version here-a manageably modest serving, and no sizzling fireworks. The Tcx-Mex plates continue to run way behind the specialties in excellence. Coconut or cinnamon ice cream makes a refreshing dessert. Preston Valley Shopping Center. LBJ Frwy at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296, Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri A Sat 11:30am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. All credit cards. Moderate.
Mario’s Chiquita ★★★ This Piano outpost of Mario Leal’s mini-empire of Mexican restaurants is-surprise, surprise-very much like his other two establishments, from the odd pastel color scheme, with its emphasis on skating-rink pink, to the average Tex-Mex offerings to the superior Mexico City-style specialties. Unlike the original Chiquita. Mario’s Chiquita is big enough that getting seated immediately is rarely a problem. 221 W Parker, Suite,440, Piano. 423-2977. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Martinez Cafe ★★★ Tex-Mex abounds in Dallas: top-notch Tex-Mex, however, is relatively rare. That’s where Martinez Cafe comes in. It’s been a long time since standard-issue Tex-Mex made me sit up and lake notice as 1 did here. There’s nothing outré on the menu, just the standards, prepared as they should be. Here you will find snappy salsa, notable nacbos, tasty tacos. and enticing enchiladas. Just one caveat: if Mexican food and margaritas are synonymous in your book, don’t come to Martinez Cafe. There aren’t any margaritas to be had, though beer and wine are available. 3011 Routh. 855-0240. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11. Sat 11-11. MC, V. AE. Inexpensive.
Mia’s ★★★ For to these many years, I have been hearing about the chile rellenos at Mia’s. And for lo these many years, I have been missing out on the chile rellenos at Mia’s. I would remember that they were available only on Tuesday. but forget they were available only at dinner on Tuesday. I would remember that they were available only at dinner on Tuesday, but they would be sold out. Recently, thanks to a kindhearted waitress who let me have her pre-reserved relleno, I finally tasted the elusive entrée, stuffed with ground beef, potato, and raisins, and can report that the result was worth the wait. The rest of Mia’s menu is above-average, but it’s the relleno-and the warm service-that make the place worthy of cull status. 4322 Lemmon. 526-1020. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri 5-10:30, Sat 11 am-10 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
Ricardo’s ★★★ This latest in the Metroplex area’s supply of “Miami Vice”style Mexican restaurants (offering pret-ty but predictable pastel settings and tropically influenced food along with Tex-Mex) proves that there is gastronomic civilization even as one travels so far north as to sight the Oklahoma border. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Villa Margarita ★★★ If you were just tooling around in the Coil-Belt Line area, chances are that you’d miss Villa Margarita unless you knew it was there- This is a shame, because Villa Margarita is one of the best Mexican restaurants north of LBJ. Here, in pretty pastel surroundings, you can have some of the best nachos (with black beans, white cheese, and sour cream) to be had in these parts. After the nachos, the standard Tex-Mex offerings are fine, but I prefer the tender, flavorful carne asada. 362 Promenade Center, Coil & Belt Line, Richardson. 235-5447, Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 11 am-1 am. Sun 11 am-9 pm. MC. V, AE. Moderate.
SEAFOOD
D REVISITS
Atlantic Café ★★★★ After several disappointing meals at Atlantic Cafe in the last year, I had given up on the place. However, after hearing of recent changes, I returned and found the food to be back on track. The new menu includes such winners as shrimp and crab ravioli and nicely sautéed soft shell crab. 4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30; Sun brunch 11-2. All credit cards. Expensive.
Bay Street ★★★ Bay Street ha: made some efforts toward climbing aboard the Cajun bandwagon with such dishes as Cajun popcorn (fried crawfish tails), gumbo, and crawfish étouffée. Still, these Cajun upstarts, while respectably prepared, are outshone by the non-Cajun seafood choices like a simple charbroiled swordfish. which was impeccably fresh and juicy on a recent visit. (And if you arc optimistic enough to order sword fish on a regular basis, you know how rare it is when the meaty fish does not emerge with the texture of fish jerky.) Bay Street does well with bread and dessert, and has half a dozen white wines by the glass. Bay Street’s service is young and tries hard, and the setting is a handsome, hangar-like space. 5348 Bell Line, Ad-dison. 934-8502. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. Moderate.
Cafe Pacific ★★★★★ There are a let of first-rate waiters working in Dallas, but Don at Café Pacific has to be in the very top rank. Even if the food hadn’t been as close to perfection as mere mortals can approach, his courtly but never pretentious manner and ability to be there exactly when you need him would still have made a recent lunch at Café Pacific a pleasure. All the same, Chinese chicken salad and a daily special of red snapper with a julienne of snow peas were all that they could and should have been. Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 526-1170, Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30, Sun 10:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Expensive.
Gulf Coast Oyster Company ★★★ This casual little restaurant with a misleading name-oysters aren’t the only focus of attention, and the place has a Greek, not a Gulf Coast, accent-takes its seafood seriously. A meal here starts with pita bread and Greek dips and segues to such main courses as broiled trout (which could hardly be simpler-or better) or broiled shrimp with rice. Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Tbur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE. Moderate.
SOUTHE
D REVISITS
Celebration ★★★ After years of exploration of Celebration’s menu. I have finally found its weak spot: spaghetti, which vies with Highland Park Cafeteria’s version for the title of worst desecration of pasta in town. However, everything else on a recent visit was as swell as ever. Given its consistent record, one problem dish can hardly be held against Celebration, which is an enduring source of well-prepared comfort food. 4503 W Lovers Lane, 351-5681. Lunch daily 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
chaise Lounge ★★★★ “This Is The Place Your Mother Warned You About,” says the sign outside. The food served inside is swell: corn and conch chowder, pan-fried trout, and rice and raisin pudding with heavy cream are transcendently noteworthy. If you don’t like to rock out to Cajun music, sit in the kitchen at dinner. 3010 N Henderson. 823-1400. Mon-Wed 4 pm-midnight. Thur-Sat 4 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.
Crescent City ★★ Crescent City serves the best muffa-letta sandwich in the area. It may well be the only muffaletta sandwich in the area, but this is not to detract from the accomplishment. Crescent City’s version consists of a round loaf of chewy, sesame seed-topped bread filled with ham, salami, three kinds of cheeses, and a mixture of marinated, chopped olives and vegetables. There are other things on the menu-including laudable oyster and shrimp poor boy sandwiches and eminently skippable French bread pizzas-but the muffaletta is the reason to make the trek. The beignets and café au lait, while reasonably good, are no rivals to Caff du Monde’s. Service is in the quick and “hon”-style tradition. 10819 Garland Rd. 321-1613. Mon-Sat 7 am-10 pm, Sun 7:30 am-10 pm. MC, V. Inexpensive.
Highland Park Cafeteria ★★★★ Standing in line at HPC and moving past the portraits of the presidents is a ritual of unmatched resonance in Dallas dining. HPC is a treasured local institution, from the Southern classics on the menu to the line staff, some of whom have been on the job for decades. Perhaps as a result, many regulars believe that heaven itself will resemble HPC, with hairnetted attendants querying, “Serve you?” and booths always available. The menu on cloud nine: ham or chicken-fried steak, green beans, mashed potatoes and cream gravy, a jalapeno corn muffin, and cherry cobbler. The Addison and downtown branches have their virtues, but they don’t reproduce the allure of the original Knox Street location, 4611 Cole. 526-3801; Village on the Partway, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. Suite 600, 934-8800 N. downtown, 500 Akard at San Jacinto, Suite 220, 740-2400. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm at Cole location; Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm, Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Village on the Parkway location; Mon-Fri 6:30 am-2 pm at downtown location. No credit cards. MC, V. AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $10. Inexpensive.
Mama Taught Me How ★★★★ Here is a down-home dream come true: lovingly prepared versions of the greatest hits of Dixified cuisine. That name, incidentally, is no trumped-up product of marketing strategy. Mama is Doris Alexander, her daughters are Judy Sharp and Vickie Piland, and together they run the place with a combination of charm and warmth that is as specific to the South as are grits. Standouts include the red beans and rice, chicken-fried steak (both available every day), chicken and dumplings, and coconut cream pie (which are available only on some days). 14902 Preston Rd. #512 (SE corner of Preston & Bell Line) in Pepper Square. 490-6301- Mon-Fri 7 am-2:30 pm, Thur5-8pm. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.
Rosemarie’s ★★★★ In the days when I toiled at The Dallas Morning News, one of my prescriptions for a bad morning was a quick trip across the bridge to Oak Cliff for lunch at Roscmarie’s. These days, I don’t make it to Rosemaries quite so often, but when 1 do. it’s like old-home week. Rosemarie Hudson never forgets a customer, and her warmth accounts in part for the fanatical loyalty this little cafeteria-style operation inspires; the terrific chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, yeast rolls, and peanut butter pie also might have something to do with it. 1411 .V Zang 946-4142. Mon-Fri 11-2. No credit cards. Inexpensive.
The Mecca Inside the Mecca ★★ it’s always 1957. This is one old favorite that repays revisiting, whether for breakfast, which features immense omelettes, real-thing hash browns, and swell biscuits, or for lunch, when chicken-fried steak is in order. 10422 Harry Nines. 352-0051. Mon Fri 5:30 am-3 pm, Sat 5:30 am-2 pm. Closed Sun. Atl credit cards. Inexpensive.
SPANISH
Manual ★★★★ Tapas-Spanisb appetizers-are the ticket in this Goya-esque, heavy-on-the-red restaurant. Standouts include the tortilla espanola, a heavy-duty assemblage of potato, egg. and onion, and gambas at ajilio, shrimp in garlic- and pepper-enlivened olive oil. For dessert, the orange-sauced bunuelo makes for a satisfying close to a thoroughly pleasing meal. 8220 Westchester, Preston Center, 373-4663. Mon-Sat 5 pm-12:30 am: happy hour 5-7- Closed Sun. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
STEAKS
Hoffbrau ★★ It used to be that if you played word association, the name “Hoffbrau ” would invariably be paired with the word “steak.” Of late, a number of non-beery items such as chicken and shrimp have been allowed on the Hoff-brau menu. However, after sampling slightly greasy, over-breaded fried shrimp. I intend to stick to the steaks in the future. Although you don’t gel meat of the caliber found at Del Frisco’s or the Palm at Hoffbrau, you don’t get a tab of that caliber, either. 3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sal 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 11:30 am-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.
Lawry’s The Prime Rib ★★★★ Finding myself once again on the verge of the big NB (nervous breakdown). 1 decided on dinner at Lawry’s. The only choices are prime rib. prime rib, and prime rib-in throe cuts-so the stress of ordering is minimal. And the fare is hard-core comfort food that takes the overwrought diner back a couple of decades to the Sunday-dinner fere of a simpler time. The beef was tender and flavorful; and the accompaniments-including a salad of Romaine, iceberg, and watercress; mashed potatoes; and creamed spinach-were admirable. At lunch there arc also chicken, fish, and salad options, but prime rib is the point here. At lunch or dinner, the look of Lawry’s is surreal -ly baronial, with tapestry and massive furniture abounding. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri 6-11:30, Sat 5:30-11:30. Sun 5-10; Sun brunch 11:30-2. All credit cards. Expenstve.
Morton’s ★★★★ “Big hunks o’ meat in the dark” is how a friend describes the premise of steak restaurants. Morton’s, which is to Chicago as the Palm is to New York, is a classic of the genre. Servings-and many of the patrons-are out-sized, and prices are set accordingly. The quality of the beef. lamb. fish, chicken, and lobster is unimpeachable, and the results are fine, if not particularly exciting to those of us who aren’t major carnivores. 501 Elm. 741-2277. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Expensive.
Palm ★★★★ The Palm is a weird experience for first-timers, to judge from the comments of the friend who accompanied me on my last checkup lunch. She knew it was famous for huge, expensive lobsters and steaks, and, logically enough, expected the place to be plush and serious-looking. Instead, of course, the decor, such as it is, consists of the worst caricatures ever committed to paper of the locally famous and semi-famous. Lunch at the Palm. it turns out, is a really good idea. The lunch specials are not only less pricey than the choices at dinner, but they’re frequently better, to judge from the celestial roast pork I tried this time around. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun5-9pm. All credit cards. Very expensive.
TAKEOUT
Crescent Gourmet ★★★ The Crescent Gourmet offers some of the best baked goods in town for breakfast. The croissants, Danishes, and muffins are done right-and on the premises. Any of the aforementioned, along with fresh-squeezed juice, would start any day right. At lunch, there are plenty of reasonably priced sandwiches and salads to choose from, including the knockout pizzas served next door at Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court, Suite 150, Maple at McKin-ney 871-3223. Mon-Sat l0 am-3 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate.
Everyday Gourmet ★★★★★ This is the takeout establishment that I’ve been waiting for-or it would be, if only it kept later hours. The food is homey in the best sense, but never tastes amateurish. The fare changes, but peerless meat loaf and chicken salad are two standards, and the prices for this simple perfection are reasonable, 4446 Lovers Lane. 373-0325- Mon-Fri 8:30 am-7:30 pm. Sat 8 am-5:30 pm. MC, V. Inexpensive to moderate.
Marty’s ★★★★ Dailas’s longest established gourmet yuppeteria continues to offer the rarest of commodities: thoughtful advice. Therefore, when dinner and accompanying wine must be acquired speedily, I tend to turn to Marty’s. The last such last-minute foray resulted in vegetables vinaigrette, moussaka, German potato salad, apple-walnut cobbler, and a bottle of Sausal Zinfandel. A13 the elements of this meal were individually pleasing and collectively wonderful. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards, Marty’s charge. Expensive.
Petaluma ★★★★ San Simeon’s takeout branch is very nearly as delightful as its parent restaurant. For breakfast, the alternatives include fresh-squeezed juices, croissants, Danishes, and blueberry muffins nonpareil. At lunch, the soup of the day is whatever it is at San Simeon and always a good bet. The cooling salad and sandwich options include chilled shrimp and bow-tie pasta with tomato, lemon, and dill and a breast of turkey sandwich with guacamole and jack cheese. Just beware of the lemonade, which is far from traditional: it’s made with club soda, and no sweetening whatsoever. Chateau Plaza, 2515 McKinney 871-2253. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm. Ail credit cards. Inexpensive.
Pollo Bueno ★★★ This may well be the fast food of the gods. PB’s hickory-roasted chicken is remarkably succulent. With it you can get very good cole slaw and rice, pretty good cornbread. and pretty odd beans. You can eat inside the clean, spiffy-looking premises or take your treasure home. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Mon-Sat 11-11. Sun noon-9 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive.
Tommaso’s ★★★ Tommaso’s makes it possible for the overtaxed gastronome to enjoy the illusion of cooking at home while in fact eating what is fast food, albeit fast food that doesn’t taste unduly frenetic. The microwavable rotolo, a pasta roll filled with ricotta. mozzarella. and spinach, is an especially good choice for evenings when even boiling water is beyond one’s capabilities. The only problem with the rest of Tommaso’s offerings is the overabundance of choice. Do you want egg, spinach, tomato, whole wheat, or parsley and garlic pasta? Do you want it cut as angel hair, tagliolini. spaghetti, linguiette, tagliatelle, or fettuccine? And then there is the sauce question-do you want tomato and fresh basil, amatriciaina, meat, cream and mushroom, walnut, or pesto? You can hardly go wrong, unless you opt for the dull lasagna. 3034 Mockingbird at Central, 987-4415; 5365 Spring Valley. Suite 158 at Montfort, 991-4040. Mon-Frill am-7pm. Sat I0am-6pm. Closed Sun. MC, V Inexpensive to moderate.
THAI
Slam ★★★★★ Gone from the scene for more than two years, Siam has returned in a new location. The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever: the pork satay comes with peerless curried peanut sauce, the spring rolls are commendable, the beef salad is rolling in leaves of fresh mint, and pud Thai, a dish of rice noodles with shrimp, ground peanuts, and scrambled egg, tastes better here than anywhere. Now more than ever, Siam is one of Dailas’s all-time great Asian restaurants. Northwest Comers Shopping Center, 2415 W Northwest Highway #108 (accessible from Harry Hines). 358-3122. Lunch Mon-Thur 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11, Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun- All credit cards. Moderate.
D REVISITS
Thai Lanna ★★★ The sinus-searing chicken and coconut milk soup at Thai Lanna is one of those magic dishes that is good for what ails you. Ginger chicken That slyle and broccoli beef or pork over noodles are also winners. Whatever you order, ease into it-That food is In I and spicy as a rule, and Thai Lanna follows that rule more rigorously than most restaurants. 4315 Bryan, 827-6478; 1490 W Spring Valley, 690-3637. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5 pm-10 pm. Sat & San 11 am-10 pm at Bryan location; Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11 as Spring Valley location. MC, V. Inexpensive.<BR>
VIETNAMESE
Mai’s ★★ Lunch specials at Mai’s an a great, inexpensive way to be introduced to Vietnamese food, if you haven’t discovered it. The garlic shrimp or the subtly fiery lemongrass chicken makes for a great lunch, especially if you follow it with Vietnamese-style iced coffee with condensed milk. (Finish this stuff off, anil the paperwork will be flying from your desk for hours afterward.) You don’t come here for the atmosphere: Mai’s decor is distinctly utilitarian. 4812 Bryan, Suite 100 (at, Firzhugh). 826-9887. Wed &Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-11, Sun 11 am-10.30 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. MC, V. Inexpensive.
Saigon ★★★★ Situated where Yolanda’s used to be on Lowest Greenville. Saigon is definitely the best-looking Vietnamese restaurant in town. It also promises to be the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, period. Everything I tried on three visits was impressive, but the intriguing-sounding shrimp wrapped around sugar cane was particularly laudable. As usual at Vietnamese restaurants, the beverages of choice are fresh lemonade and/or iced coffee. 1731 Greenville. 828-9795. Tue-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun & Mon 5-10. All credit cards. Inexpensive.
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
CacharEl ★★★★ This pretty establishment with a glassed-in exhibition kitchen has a fixed price of $10 for lunch and S22 for dinner. The fare-including such Gallic classics as green salad with goat cheese, asparagus soup, scallops with an assertive tarragon sauce, and lamb with a natural-juice sauce-would be worth twice the tariff. Brookhollow Two, 2221 E Lamar, Suite 910, Arlington. 640-9981. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate.
China Terraca ★★★ I like to think that 1 will forgive almost anything for good food. However, if that were the case, the well-prepared steamed dumplings, Szechwan beef, and shrimp with snow peas that I trie 1 on my last visit to China Terrace would have left me happy. Instead, the harshly lit setting and the tough-luck attitude of the service (a request for a beer at 9:55 was refused because the bar was closed) put a significant dent in my sense of well-being. 5435 N MacArthur, Irving. 550-1113. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. MC. V, AE. Moderate.
Via Real ★★★ Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists. The contents of the me menu are as fresh as the look of the place-you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence. The appetizers include such novelties as crepa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crèpes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) an rellenos de pescado (cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce). Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end. Town North Centre. 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate, Irving. 255-0064. , Mitch Mon-Fri 11-5, Sal 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & . Sat 5-11; Sun brunch 10-2. All credit cards. Moderate.
FORT WORTH
Angelo’s ★ How much of Angelo’s reputation is warranted and how much mere mystique? I found the sliced barbecue and the chopped beef sandwich both lacking in smoky flavor (though tender and lean enough) the last lime around. The extras here have never been worth hooting about, so that left only the cold beer to make the visit memorable. 2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. Inexpensive.
Le Chardonnay ★★★★ Former Ceret chef Philip Lecoq is a co-owner of this new bistro, and its combination of serious food and an informal atmosphere is reminiscent of that late, lamented establishment. The lamb chops topped with goat cheese, served with a rosemary sauce and accompanied by herbed French fries, are a standout. 2443 Forest Park Blvd. Fort Worth (817) 926-5622. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-9:30pm, Fri 11:30 am-10 pm, Sat 6 pm-10 pm. Sun 11 am-2pm. MC, V; personal checks accepted. Moderate.
The Oriental ★★★ Come the weekend, and normal people grab a bite at the nearest eatery that appeals. Restaurant critics and their long-suffering friends head out for North Richland Hills, where they have been told terrific Thai food is to be found-and where they are misdirected by the local constabulary, and so arrive after closing time. To the credit of the kind-hearted staff of the Oriental, the group in question was fed in spite of the hour. And the food was worth any amount of driving, especially the pork sate with peanut sauce, the risibly named “’Earth, Wind and Fire Pan II” (which translates to breast of chicken with cashew nuts and vegetables), and Thai doughnuts, with an orange-peanut sauce for dipping. (And thanks to reader Lisa Bain Grossman for the recommendation.) 6455 Hilltop Dr, North Rich-land Hills. (817) 656-2144. Lunch Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30pm; dinner Tue-Thur 4:30 pm-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 4:30 pm-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.
Saint-Emilion ★★★★ Considering the four-course fixed price of $20 per person, it’s surprising that more Dallasites don’t make the trek to Saint -Emilion. The East time I did, the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leaf lettuce, radicchio, watercress, walnuts, and bits of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start. (Order the last with the boneless quail and you’ve got the snail-and-quail special.) Juicy swordfish provencal and nicely roasted duck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for. (Actually, one could ask that the duck be boned.) For dessert, pass on the fluffy, lightweight chocolate mousse and opt for the extraordinary crème caramel. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 6-10 pm. Sat 6-10 pm. Cloaed Sun. MC. V, AE. Moderate.
NIGHTLIFE
Arthur’s If they ever raise the drinking age in Texas to forty-one, this place could be in trouble. A tastefully appointed bar offering live entertainment, the crowd that gathers here is older and sophisticated. They know that if you don’t have money, you should at least look like you do. Campbell Center, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 am. Sat 6 pm-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Alt credit cards.
Balboa Cafe. This place is like your favorite T-shirt: nothing fancy, well-worn, comfortable. Don’t come here if you’re starving and looking for good food. Ditto if you’re in the mood to rubberneck glamour guys and gals. You won’t find any of that at the Balboa Cafe What you will find is a semi-dark spot to relax with friends over a few cocktails and a basket of onion rings, which are about the only thing on the menu worth ordering. The regular patrons and the employees are a laid-back sort-unless there’s any-kind-of-ball game playing on the TV behind the bar. Even if you don’t know who’s on first, you’ll find yourself drawn to the rowdy tans clustered around the thank-god-it’s-not-a-big-screen TV. 3604 Oak Lawn. 521-1068. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am. Sat & Sun 10 am-2 am. MC. V. AE.
Bar of Soap. We’d like to see this place make it just because of its name. A combination art pub and launderette, you can do your wash in the back room while sipping your favorite beer or wine. But you’ll want to make sure you stay there long enough to hear original music and poetry readings performed on top of the “soap box.” Along with the original artwork hanging on the walls, plans are in the works to provide people a chance to show their own productions on the bar’s VCR. 3615 Parry Ave. 823-6617 Daily noon-2 am. No credit cards.
Barnacles. What a find! This place is comfortable, easygoing in the Lower Greenville manner, bedecked with nets and other bits of nautical kitsch. On a balmy evening with the front doors thrown open, it has that “Nawlins” flavor. The huge mural of the Mississippi past and present wins immediate entry into the Dallas Museum of Great Bar Art, where it joins the massive Mardi Gras heads that decorate Fat Tuesday’s. The menu is surprisingly extensive. We had tasty Cajun popcorn (striplets of crawfish in a tangy house sauce), followed by a creditable Fishing Camp Scampi- juicy shrimp, perfecto pasta, thick cheese bread, and carrots. The musical rare can be uneven, but there’s no cover charge, so who’s complaining? 1915 Greenville. 826-2623. Mon-Sat 5 pm-2 am, Sun 7 pm-2 am. MC, V, DC, CB.
Club Clearview. Tired of the Starck Club, that million-dollar setting for the teased-out New Wave generation, where happiness is hanging out in the bathroom lobby? Well, now you have a veritable carnival of trendy activities in one nightclub, and it’s all Tor the artsy, modern-music, strange hair crowd. This Deep Ellum club has avant-garde sculpture and hip art (like an “artistic” depiction of a bum’s home on a city street). There is great dance music in one part of the club, and then a warehouse in the back where bands play, (he standard coed bathrooms, and a place upstairs to make out with someone or make sure your purple wig is on straight. 2806 Elm. 939-0006, Tue, Thur & Sun 9 pm-2 am, Fri & Sat 9 pm-4 am. MC, V, AE.
Dave & Buster’s. “There’s nothing quite like it” is Dave & Buster’s slogan, and they’re not kidding. The place is enormous, but the brass and dark wood decor adds a degree of sophistication. Head for the umpteen pool tables lining the walls; try shuffleboard, darts. Pente, or backgammon; or just sip a cool one at the large bar on the main floor. 10727 Composite, near Walnut Hill as Stemmons Frwy- 353-0649. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Sun 11:30 am-midnight. All credit cards.
Fast & Cool. Fast & Cool is undisputably the King of Lower Greenville. The music here is predominantly Motown sound and authentic soul from artists like James Brown and Ike and Tina Turner. The dance floor is the center of this tiny universe, and it has a magnetic effect on anyone who walks in the door. It’s hard to imagin even the most hard-core Baptist resisting this dance floor. Unlike countless dance clubs that have come and gone or Greenville Avenue, this place has staying power. 3606 Greenville. 827-5544. Tue-Thur8pm-2am, Fri & Sat 8 pm-4 am. Closed Mon. Cover Si Thur: $4 Fri & Sat. MC, V. AE.
Fat Tuesday. You can laissez les bon temps rouler in this spacious pleasure bam, though even a healthy crowd seems swallowed up here. The Mardi Gras mood is enhanced by the huge, festive masks that adorn the walls, especially the striking sun mask that smiles over the bar-our first nomination for the Dallas Museum of Nightclub Art. Ultimately, of course, the Bourbon Street spirit depends on spirits, and Fat Tuesday delivers. More than a dozen high-octane mixtures churn perpetually in blenders: the aptly named Crawgator, a house specialty, mixes three kinds of rum, brandy, and juices. The Cajun buffet-all the jambalaya and chicken wings you want for $2-is satisfactory. 6778 Greenville. 373-7377. Daily 3 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.
Froggy Bottoms. Ever wondered what a basement bar during prohibition must have looked like? This is it. A wonderful rhythm and blues club offering good barbecue and cold beer, the atmosphere here was definitely designed for good times in a very small setting. The Tonny Foy decor can best be described as early flea market. The walls are decorated with graffiti and scrap metal. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581. Daily 4 pm-2 am. Cover varies. MC, V, AE.
Funny Bone. The Funny Bone is to comedy what McDonald’s is to hamburgers. It’s the largest chain of comedy clubs in the country. You may not recognize all the names that appear here, but that doesn’t mean they’re not funny. Many of these comics are in the middle of long runs playing the ten clubs around the country. Tuesday nights you can catch the local improv group, “4 out of 5 doctors.” LBJ Freeway and Greenville Avenue in the High Point Village Shopping Center. 437-2000. Shows: The, Wed, Thur, Sun 8:30; Fri 8:30 & 10:45; Sat 8, 10, & midnight. MC. V. AE.
Greenville Bar & Grill. If Dallas had a Watering Hole of Fame, this bar would certainly be in it. The kingpin of the Lower Greenville circuit won’t disappoint if you’re looking for a good burger, a longneck beer, and a band that won’t let you hear yourself think. 2821 Greenville. 823-6691. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 am, Sun noon-2 am. MC, V. AE.
Mr. C’s Oyster Bar. It may look like a bar in the American Airlines terminal (soundless Tvs, lots of tile, and uncomfortable chairs), but it is a welcome refuge, far from the madding crowds of the rest of the West End. If you want hot R&B and even hotter homemade Cajun food, this is your place. Be sure to sample the “Hot Pups” (jalapenos stuffed with cream cheese). 601 Pacific. 698-9364. Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards.
Pinot’s Wine Bar. You want wine by the glass, this is the place to get it-twenty-one varieties, ranging in price from $2.50 to $21 a glass. (If you’re trying to check out all twenty-one in one night, the half-glass option might be advisable.) There is a menu, and it’s more than passable, if less than awe-inspiring, but wine, not food, is the lure here. Pinot’s setting is closer to plain than plush, which doesn’t seem to bother in the least the wine and restaurant business crowd that gravitates here. 2926 N Henderson. 826-1949. Tue-Sun 4 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE.
Plaza Bar. It’s just like the name implies, a plaza that opens to the alley of Dallas Alley, offering indoor and outdoor seating, with food service from two different restaurants. This is a great place to have a casual conversation and drink, or to meet friends before tackling the West End for the night. Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581. Daily 6 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.
Poor David’s Pub. Has anything changed at Poor David’s-ever? Hmm. That poster, upper right from the stage, may not have been there in 1984. Hard to say. Pitcher prices have nudged upwards a bit, but not much. Other than that. Poor David’s is happily frozen in time. Anson and the Rockets still provide straight-ahead blues several times a month; name acts like Loudon Wainright and Guy Clark still drop in. In the alcove near the restrooms, there is a new video game cleverly designed to resemble a pinball machine, if you can believe it. (Wail a minute-that is a pinball machine.) 1924 Greenville. 821-9891. Mon-Sat 7 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. Cover varies. No credit cards.
Rick’s Casablanca. You would think such a tiny club couldn’t come up with such consistent and slick entertainment. But it’s true, and the word has spread-just try getting in here on a Monday night. The management has, thank heavens, taken down all the palms that were supposed to make you think about Casablanca. And they’ve spread out the stage so that, to go to the bathroom, you have to literally walk right between the people in the band: the best reason we’ve heard yet to powder our noses. 1919 Greenville. 824-6509. Daily 8 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.
SRO. This place was made for the younger real estate brokerage crowd that loves to party on Thursday night, and don’t assume the downturn in the real estate market has changed those partying habits. Our Thursday visit found the place SRO indeed. A walk from our seal at the bar to check out the al fresco seating created enough friction to light up a three-way bulb (all those natural fibers rubbing up against one another). SRO’s sleek, black interior and low-voltage lighting is cooling on a hot summer evening and the place still does a respectable club sandwich. 2900 McKinney. 748-5014. Mon-Sat 4 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE.
State Bar. One sign of a bar’s success is T-shirts with its logo on its patrons and would-be parrons. By that standard. State Bar is nearly as successful as-and far more hip than-the Hand Rock Cafe- What has made State Bar’s martini-glass trademark omnipresent is simple: this is a bar lor low-key Bohemians who want to have civilized conversation while gazing out picture windows facing the fairgrounds across the street. The subdued lighting-there are rheostats at each booth-and moderate volume of the music make this possible. All in all. the effect is of a gallery opening without the pictures. 3611Parry. 821-9246. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 am. Sat & Sun 5:30 pm-2 am. MC. V. AE.
Take 5. Chefs will tell you that a fine dinner will taste better if it looks good. If that holds true for music, [hen the jazz in this bar will sound great. Take 5 has a sophisticated look done in black and live music at a level that lets you enjoy talking to the person across the table. And. unlike many clubs, there is more time devoted to music than breaks. fart of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 2019 N Lamar. 988-0581. Daily 6 pm-2 am. MC. V, AE.
Venetian Room. The old king of the Dallas showroom supper clubs still consistently brings in the most recognizable names in pop-jazz-comedy acts. The posh, elegant place, with its frescoes on the walls and tuxedoed waiters. might be intimidating to some, but the dress code has been loosened (you can get by without tic or fancy dress), the cover charge ranges from twelve to twenty dollars, and you don’t have to buy the full-course dinner (which starts at twenty dollars) to come to the show. Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 720-2020. Tue-Sun, two shows nightly at 9 pm and 11 pm. All credit cards.
Video Bar. If you’ve watched MTV once during the last year, you owe it to yourself to go to the Video Bar. They have found music videos that you never see anywhere else-even some absolutely weird stuff that is fraught with significant meaning and whatnot. If you consider yourself pad of the new scene-and if you promise not to wear anything resembling penny loafers-this is your Deep Ellum kind of place-All the funky regulars from the old “On the Air” bar have already found their spots, so be prepared to wait in line. 2812 Elm. 939-9113. Daily 8 pm-2 am. MC, V. AE.
The Wine Press. This is the perfect place to go on a rainy night-or any time you’re looking for romance, intimacy. and spirits. The Wine Press is decorated with wine bodies from floor to ceiling on almost every wall. The atmosphere is lew-key and elegantly casual; the service, friendly but not hovering; the wine selection, extensive-to say the least. 4217 Oak Lawn 522-8720. Tue-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun & Mon 11 am-midnight. MC. V, AE.
Zanzibar. Zanzibar offers drinks and good deli food in a colorful cafe setting. The decor-neon, glass bricks, and pink-and-green walls-is odd enough to work. And even though Zanzibar looks cosmopolitan, it has a neighborhood bar feel to it that leads to discussions among perfect strangers from table to table. 2912 Greenville. 828-2250. Tue & Wed 11:30 am-midnight. Thur 1130 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Sun 10:30 am-3 pm & 4 pm-midnight, Mon 5 pm-midnighi. MC. V AE.
Zebof’s. This is a wide-open pop-music dance bar that’s unpretentious and has a low cover charge-an increasingly rare find. Zebo’s real forte, however, is its Rockabilly Wednesday, which features live bands and pumped-in rock ’n’ roll. 5915 E Northwest Hwy. 361-4272. Tue-Fri 6 pm-2 am. Sat & Sun 7 pm-2 am. Closed Mon. No credit cards.
FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE
Bitty Bob’s Texas. This huge country/western club in the Fort Worth Stockyards has a lot going for it: two restaurants, forty-two bar stations, a real bull-riding arena, and several shops. It’s bigger than Gilley’s, more citified than the Longhorn Ballroom ever was, and a “must-see” if you’re in Fort Worth. 2520 Rodeo Plaza in the Stockyards. Metro 429-5979. Daily 10 am-2 am. MC, V. AE.
Caravan of Dreams. Caravan of Dreams, which covers three floors of a chic Sundance Square building, has excellent live jazz/blues (and a bar) on the first floor, a theater with movies and live drama (and a bar) on the second floor, and an outdoor patio with a cactus garden (and a bar) on the roof. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000. Wed-Sun 7pm-2 am, Sal 7 pm-2 am. Sun 6 pm-midnight. Closed Mon & Tue. Cover for shows only. MC. V. AE. DC.
The White Elephant Safoon. In 1887. Luke Short, then the owner of the White Elephant, shot it out with a former U.S. marshal. Today, the Elephant has country/western music six nights a week and lots of tourists trying desperately to learn the two-step on a small dance floor. 106 E Exchange. (817) 624-8273. Sun-Thur noon midnight. Fri A Sat noon-2 am. Happy hour. Mon-Fri 4 pm-7 pm. MC. V. AE.
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