EATING AROUND THE DISCREET CHARM OF THE LEFT BANK

Left Bank

★★★★ The left bank in question is that of the Trinity River, and the restaurant in question is the best thing to hit Oak Cliff since the viaduct from downtown. The menu, which is of the changing, blackboard variety, is simple, appealing, and very reasonably priced.

It’s not, however, as informative as it could be. On one visit I learned that a salad is included with entrées. I didn’t, however, learn this until after I’d ordered another salad. Another evening, the surprise du jour was that all entrées, though described as chicken, beef, and so forth, were in fact pasta dishes. Still, both these surprises were essentially pleasant ones.

On any given day, the choices at the Left Bank tend to consist of a soup, a few other appetizers, a chicken entrée, a beef entrée, and a dessert. All categories came off very well on my visits. Cream of onion soup was good enough to make me happy that I’d broken my onion-soup rule (namely, never order it on this continent); leek and potato soup was even better. Paté maison was fish-based and pleasantly innocuous; rabbit paté was more interesting. Chicken with green peppercorn sauce and chicken Normandy were both moist and flavorful-rare qualities in restaurant chicken dishes. And a homey, warming version of beef ragout was the best thing I tasted here.

Mousse appears to be the dessert of choice. Lemon, apricot, chocolate, and chocolate and white chocolate mousse were all as velvety as one could ask. The wine list is a good, if limited, one, and there are always good by-the-glass choices available.

The Left Bank’s setting is plain in a lovely way. Nice touches abound: the dark-wood bar includes a corner set aside for offbeat magazines, and the walls are hand-stenciled. Especially at lunchtime, when the natural light is wonderful, this restaurant feels like the right place to be. It has the quality Christopher Alexander describes in The Linz Cafe: “One feels oneself solidified, made more whole, more at peace, more resolved in one’s own inner life.. in essence calmed, and calm, and happy, with a simple happiness, comparable to that which we feel in a meadow.. .or in the presence of a very old, and deceptively simple, religious object, like a Turkish prayer rug, or an early Christian bowl”

As you might expect from all of the above, the Left Bank is small and hard to find (though it’s just down the street from Gennie’s Bishop Grill, the sign is so discreetly displayed that you have to know where to look-next to the Dallas Neighborhood Police Office). The clientele at the Left Bank consists of Oak Cliff denizens, from longtime stalwarts to nouveau, too-hip-for-Deep-Ellum arrivistes.

On Saturday night, the Left Bank is apparently where they all want to be, which means that reservations are definitely in order. 408 N Bishop, Suite 104. 948-1630. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2, Sat noon-3; dinner Tue-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 6-10. No credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



Ashoka



★★★★ Tanjore used to be located here, and the name and menu change appear to have been all to the good. The place has been repainted in pleasingly moody shades of green, and now feels considerably more Indian. (Before, it seemed like an annex of the yogurt shop next door.) Lunch specials with a top price of $4.95 are a bargain, to judge from the quality of the chicken tikka makhni (in a buttery herb and tomato sauce) and seekh kebab (charcoal-grilled minced lamb). Lunch specials include fragrant rice and soup (a spicy, coconut-spiked tomato soup) or salad (boring iceberg, with distressingly sweet French dressing).

At dinnertime, chicken korma with a cream sauce with almonds and poppyseeds was a revelation; next to it, mughlai curry with lamb paled, though it was perfectly fine. For dessert, the rice and almond pudding was lovely; kulfi was also enjoyable, if exceedingly dense. The plain and mango lassis-yogurt-based drinks-complemented the fiery character of the food. Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070 Lunch daily 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30- 10:30, MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



Hampton’s



★★★ Lobster was so plentiful in the 17m century that Governor William Bradford of the Plymouth Plantation apologetically explained to new settlers that the only dish he “could presente their friends with was a lobster, . .without bread or anything els but a cupp of fair water.” In the 20th century, it’s so pricey that it’s practically an emblem of luxurious dining.

Happily for the cheapskate gourmet, Hampton’s offers a one-pound lobster-and one pound is plenty for all but the most greedy of porkers-for $11. Mine was sweet, tender, and thoroughly, voluptuously rewarding. The rest of Hampton’s offerings-including a good, if overly thick, salmon corn chowder, and a varied lineup of grilled, steamed, and sautéed fish-are generally good, but it’s the lobster that will bring me back. One thing that could use some work is the uninspired selection of desserts-apple crisp, cheesecake, strawberries, and the highly overrated Bluebell ice cream. Berkshire Court, Preston Center, Preston at Northwest Hwx. 739-3474. Lunch daily 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri-Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-9. MC, V, AE. Moderate.



Chapps

★ I had heard good reports of this clean-lined, high-tech burger joint, but my visit was a disappointment. When it comes to judging hamburgers, my main concern is accuracy of cooking to order. Forme, medium-rare hamburgers are not just a preference; they are closer to a religious principle. My friend ordered his burger done medium well, which I let go on the theory that he is perfect in every other way and should be allowed this one eccentricity.

At Chapps, it turned out that it didn’t matter how either of us ordered our burgers, because we both got them so well done that they practically crackled. The fries, which were billed as the real, cut-from-actual-potatoes thing, were sufficiently undercooked to make this claim beside the point. 7402 Greenville. 739-1322. Daily 7 am-10 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive.



Polio Bueno



★★★ This may well be the fast food of the gods. Polio Bueno’s hickory-roasted chicken is the most succulent preparation of the workaday fowl I’ve tasted outside five-star restaurants. With it you can get very good cole slaw and rice, pretty good corn-bread, and pretty odd beans. You can eat inside the clean, spiffy-looking premises or take your gastronomic treasure home. 3438 Samuell Blvd. 828-0645. Daily INI. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.



RESTAURANTS

AMERICAN



Baby Routh ★★★★★ This infant son of Routh Street Cafe is a casual, relatively inexpensive alternative to the pricey, reservation-required pleasures of Routh Street Cafe. Stephan Pyles and chef Amy Ferguson (who first made a name for herself in Houston) have come up with an earthy menu that is a pleasing balance of the new and the familiar. Don’t miss the smoked corn chowder with collard greens cream, the spicy honey-fried chicken, the grilled prawn and apple-smoked bacon club sandwich on toasted brioche, and the chocolate-ancho pot de crème. 2708 Routh. 871-2345. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner daily 6-11; late-night menu Mon-Sat 11 pm-1 am; brunch Sat S Sun 11:30-3. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



BEAU NASH ★★★★★ As the months have gone by. Beau Nash has come into its own identity, and its virtues seem more and more apparent For one thing, it keeps late hours-at least by Dallas standards-and does so every night. For another, it’s a lively, entertaining hangout. And last but not least, the menu has been astutely adjusted, although not completely overhauled. Happily, the smoked salmon pizza-the perfect partner to champagne-survived Hotel Crescent Court. 400 Crescent Court. Maple at McKinney. 871-3240. Breakfast daily 6:30-10:30: Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner daily 6 pm-11:15 pm: Sun brunch 11 -2:15. All credit cards. Expensive.



D REVISITS



BUBBLES BEACH DINER ★ What this city needs is a great twenty-four-hour restaurant. Bubble’s isn’t it. The Forties-style diner look of the place is fine, except for the pastel blue naugahyde booths. The problem is the food: on my visit, a pedestrian chicken-fried steak and an egregiously bad burger and fries. This one’s strictly for tourists or the truly desperate. 603 Monger, West-End Marketplace. 720-0313. Daily 24 hours. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



ClTY CAFE ★★★★★ City Cafe’s innovative yet reassuringly homey menu (which changes every Wednesday) continues to be one of the best in town in terms of quality-to-price ratio. A recent dinner was nearly flawless: the mixed garden salad, jambalaya with ham. oysters, shrimp, and andouille sausage; chocolate quiche with shortbread crust; and crème brulée with a coconut cookie crust were all they should have been. 5757 W Lovers Lane (just west of Dallas N Tollway). 351-2233. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. Moderate.



DREAM CAFE ★★★★★ The bliss that is breakfast at the Dream Cafe is one of the worst-kept secrets in the Highland Park/Oak Lawn area. On weekends, the place is full of sleepy yuppies, hippies, and preppies in quest of fresh-squeezed orange juice, blueberry pancakes, and migas. What still isn’t widely known is the appeal of the Dream Cafe’s changing lunch and dinner choices, which are simultaneously healthy, satisfying, and sophisticated. And what hardly anyone at all knows is that although the place has no liquor license, you can bring your own wine or beer. 3312 Knox. 522-14 78. Mon-Fri 7 am-3 pm. Thur-Sat 6 pm-10 pm, Sat & Sun 8 am-3 pm. MC. V; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



D REVISITS

THE MANSION ON TURTLE CREEK ★★★★★ what never seems to change at the Mansion is its historic beauty and top-of-the-line service. What does change is the menu. Now it’s printed daily, the better to accommodate changing offerings according to season-and the creative inspiration of Dean Fearing. Regulars tend to opt for whatever appears on any given day; diners for whom the Mansion is a relatively rare experience may prefer to sample such classics as the peerless tortilla soup, Louisiana crab cakes with a sauce of smoked chiites, lobster, and blood orange, and crème brulée with raspberry sauce for dessert. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room -jackets and ties required. Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2:30: brunch Sat noon-2:30. Sun 11-2:30. dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11: supper Mon-Thur 10:30 pm-midnight. Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast Mon-Fri 7-11:30. Sat & Sun 7 am-1 pm: tea Mon-Fri 2-5 pm. All credit cards Expensive.



MCKINNEY & KNOX ★★ This isn’t a bad restaurant, but it isn’t a very good one either. It’s attractive enough in a bland way, though I liked the looks of the place better in its previous incarnation as Tolbert’s. The food is in the TGI Friday’s mold: it all sounds very with-it, but frequently falls short of the mark. 4544 McKinney 522-4340. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. MC, V, AE. inexpensive to moderate.



PARIGI ★★★ Parigi is a restaurant that inspires strong emotion. Its fans love its marbleized, post-modern look and its menu, which changes daily and might be described as hybridized nouveau American-French-latian lts detractors hale its patrician attitude (no iced tea on this menu -too plebeian) and its menu, which in its stranger manifestations can seem more Martian than anything else. On my last dinner visit, I found myself reflecting once again on the Parigi paradox : the pasta dishes always sound too interesting to pass up, and nearly always turn out to be too strange to enjoy: in this case, the relevant examples were tomato fettuccine with shrimp and asparagus in sorrel cream sauce and cilantro linguette with chicken, black beans, and red bell pepper pesto. Still. Parigi’s wine list is well chosen, its Saturday brunch is a lovely thing, and its waiters are terrific. 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Lunch Tue-Fri, 11:30-2:30. dinner Tue-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11: Sat brunch 10:30-3. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. Expensive.



Routh Street Cafe ★★★★★ Routh street cafe’s formula for national gastronomic fame: Stephan Pyles’s New Southwestern Cuisine, a sleek, Tonny Foy-designed setting, and snappy, congenial service. The five-course, fixed-price menu ($42, with surcharges for certain items) is printed daily, but certain items-such as cornmeal catfish with smoked pepper/mint marigold sauce, lobster enchilada with red pepper crème fraiche, lamb with pecan and garlic sauce, berry buckle with cinnamon ice cream, and apple-walnut spice cake-have become near-fixtures When food-obsessed travelers come to town, this is the reservation they want This means prime-time reservations should be made well in advance. 3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161 Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm Closed Sun & Mon, Reservations. All credit cards. Expensive.



SAN SlMEON ★★★★★ Richard Chamberlain’s food matches the splendor of San Simeon’s service and ils subtly, weirdly wonderful, post-modern Egyptian interior. {Keep your eye on the lighting; it changes over the course of a meal.) Pick hits include a chowder of corn, wild rice, and duck sausage, chilled bow-tie pasta and prosciutto with sage walnut pesto; and Romano-crusted veal with angel-hair pasta and tomato sauce. 2515 McKinney at Fairmount in Chateau Plaza. 871-7373 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri-Sat 6-11. Sun brunch 11-2 All credit cards. Expensive.



BAKERIES



LA MADELEINE ★★★ These are trying times, and every so often one needs a judicious combination of caffeine and carbohydrates to make it through the afternoon. La Madeleine’s strong coffee and raspberry beignets (or, alternatively, almond croissants) do the job for me. There are also more wholesome alternatives along the lines of soups, salads, and sandwiches- as well as the top-quality breads that are the true raison dêtre of the place. The rustic setting at both locations is pleasant. 3072 Mockingbird. 696-6960. 3906 Lemmon. 521-0182 Daily 7 am-9 pm No credit cards, personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



MASSIMO DA MiLAND ★★★★★ If there’s a bad item available at this attractive Italian bakery/café, I’ve yet to discover it despite exhaustive research. Although the changing pizza, pasta, and salad offerings are always alluring, more often than not I find myself opting for the tocac-cia sandwich, round flat bread filled with ham, cheese, leaf lettuce, and tomato slices. For dessert, there are any number of pastries to choose from, but nothing suits a cup of espresso better than the little amaretti cookies. These days, service for the cafeteria-style service line ranges from disorganized to efficient, which is an improvement over days past, when disjointed to chaotic were the applicable adjectives. 5519 W Lovers Lane. 351-1426. Mon-Thur 9 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 9 am-11 pm. Sun 9-9. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.

BURGERS

SNUFFER’S ★★★ Snuffer’s is nearly always packed with patrons who either go to SMU or look as if they ought to, but this should not be held against it. The menu is small and well-prepared, with emphasis on salads. nachos, burgers, and the like The immense basket of fries is a trademark: I wouldn’t have believed it was possible to finish an order of the plain fries, much less those with cheese, but I have witnessed the leat. 3526 Greenville. 826-6850. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun 11:30 am-2 am. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



CAJUN

ARCADIA BAR ★★★★ First things first: the Arcadia Bar has nothing to do with the Arcadia Theater, which is across the street The Arcadia Bar is a no-frills hangout. (The music is mostly recorded, though there is sometimes a pianist.) The menu is small, mostly Cajun. and all deftly executed From a perky green salad to perfect tried oysters to New Orleans-quality dirty rice, the food is first-rate. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Daily 5 pm-2 am MC. V. AE.. Inexpensive.



CAFE MARGAUX ★★★★★ The blackened-everything brigade-those trend surfing restaurateurs who dont know their elbows from their étouffées-have made many local diners deeply suspicious of all Cajun food served outside a fifty-mile radius of New Orleans Happily, Cafe Margaux is another matter altogether. The food here measures up to Louisiana’s finest: house-made rolls, green salad, crawfish étouffée, oysters Bienville, trout with crab-meat stuffing, and bread pudding were all flawless. Good news for regulars accustomed to waiting tor the twelve tables: expansion has brought the number of tables to twenty, and a well-considered selection of American wine is now avail able. 4424 Lovers Lane 7390886 Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-11 pm. MC. V. AE. Moderate.



D REVISITS

LOUISIANA PURCHASE ★★ cajun is ragin in piano, too. now that Louisiana Purchase is purveying étouffée to residents of the North Land. The étouffée in question was quite good, with crawfish, rice, and sauce doing their collective magic. The choice of size of entrée (“large” or “not so large”) was also a nice touch A shrimp poor-boy sandwich was worthwhile, if not as impressive, and the dessert sampler substantial tastes of three desserts-bread pudding, sweet potato pecan pie. and French silk and peanut butter pie-was a sugar fiends dream. The only problems: below-par bread and a Caesar salad that didn’t deserve the name. Central Expwy at Parker Rd. Piano. 422-2469. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5 pm-l0 pm MC. V. AE. Moderate.



CHINESE

CHINA PALACE ★★★ Here is a restaurant to remember the next time they’re turning on the house lights at Starck Club and it dawns upon members of your party that you haven’t eaten in days. Do not. under any circumstances, miss the fried dumplings. which are as good as fried dumplings get on this or any other continent. After the dumplings, however, things get a little dicier: on my last visit, the shredded pork with bean curd was worthwhile, the Hunan prawns were rendered unappealing by a sweet, characterless sauce, and the spring rolls were merely edible The setting is pleasingly odd (the red and green color scheme lends a year-round Christmas atmosphere), and service is accommodating. 400 N Greenville. Richardson 669-1636 Sun-Thur II am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 10:30 am-11 pm. MC, V. DC Moderate.



CRYSTAL PAGODA ★★★★ One of the oddest facts of dining in Dallas is that although there are more Chinese restaurants around than any other kind, we don’t have a single one that approaches the greatness of. say, New York’s Siu Lam Kung. Crystal Pagoda doesn’t match that standard, but it’s as good as Chinese food gets in Dallas The shredded beef Szechwan-style and ’ the moo shu pork are two especially good choices here The service and setting are both extremely pleasant. 4516 McKinney 526-3355. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri 11:30 am-11 pm. Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE Moderate.



DYNASTY ★★★★ This relatively formal Chinese restaurant, despite its unlikely location adjacent to a motel, is among the best in the area – admittedly, a backhanded compliment given Dallas’s dearth of truly great Chinese food. On a recent visit, decent shrimp rolls and spring rolls were followed by indecently good rainbow chicken (julienned chicken, snow peas, red pepper, and Mung bean sprouts) and the equally praiseworthy, if oddly named silver gourd savoury (shrimp, green peppers, straw mushrooms, and water chestnuts). Orange beef was too fatty, as it tends to be in Chinese restaurants all over town. Garden Inn, 4101 Belt Line. Addison.385-7888. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards Moderate.



Han-Chu ★★★ Han-Chu is a great restaurant for an illicit affair the place is dark as a cave even at high noon. By Chinese-restaurant standards, it’s even sophisticated-looking: the color scheme is eggplant and burgundy, the waiters are in black tie. and there are roses on the tables. On my most recent visit. I found the shredded pork with ginger sauce to be memorable, thanks to a zippy flavor and an appealing texture imparted by the presence of black mushrooms and bamboo shoots The princess chicken, on the other hand, was an altogether forgettable aggregation of cubed chicken, celery, and water chestnuts. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy at Park Lane. Suite 191. 691-0900. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



HONG KONG ROYALE ★★★ Being the only non-Orientals in the room makes Chinese food fans of Western descent very happy. This was the case when 1 forced a friend to accompany me to the wilds of Richardson in search of great Chinese. The dim sum that we had heard enthusiastic reports on wasn’t available, so the jury’s still out on whether this restaurant is the answer to the plex for the Chinese food they remember. However, a standard lunch of chicken with almonds and shredded pork with garlic sauce was very satisfying. What’s more, the pastel-hued decor at Hong Kong Royale is unusually pretty Plainly, this place warrants further exploration. 221 W Post, Richardson. 238-8888. Mon-Fri 11-11. Set & Sun 10 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE, Inexpensive.



D REVISITS



PLUM BLOSSOM ★★★★ The elegant Plum Blossom has a new chef, and Steve Chiang’s work was very impressive on a recent visit. From appetizers of crispy five-spice quail and paper shrimp to main courses of knockout Peking duck, subtly gratifying bird’s nest chicken with pine nuts, and crispy whole catfish (looks frightening, tastes great), dinner was phenomenally good And dessert – jasmine sorbet and rice ice cream with candied apple and kiwi sauce-was the best I’ve ever had in a Chinese restaurant. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Fwy. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6 pm-10:30 pm. AH credit cards. Moderate to expensive.



SZECHWAHNPAVILION ★★★ With its sophisticated peach and gray color scheme. Szechwan Pavilion is an aesthetic knockout. At its best the food very nearly lives up to the setting. The spring rolis-cnsp wonton wrappers punctuated by shrimp, sprouts, and carrot shreds-are musts to order. After that, kung pao shrimp with red pepper and peanuts might be in order. Two dishes to avoid: dry. nearly tasteless hot spicy lobster sautéed with ginger in chili sauce, and chicken chow mein with canned, as opposed to fresh, mushrooms. Prices are a bit higher here than at most local Chinese restaurants, but one can see, in such touches as the exotic lilies on the tables, where the surcharge is going. 8411 Preston, Suite 132 at Northwest Highway. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11. Sal noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE. Moderate to expensive.

Uncle TARS Hunan Yuan ★★★★ Uncle Tai’s is the highest of high-end Chinese options in town. For prices consistently higher than any other Chinese restaurant in town, the customer gels such off-the-beaten-path dishes as sautéed sliced pheasant, frog’s legs with gingko nuts, and sliced duck with young ginger roots. The quality of ingredients is very high although the level of saltiness continues to be problematic. Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy. Suite 3370 934-9998 Mon-Thur 1 1 am- 10 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Sun noon-10 pm. Jackets required tor dinner. All credit cards Expensive.



FRENCH/CDNTINENTAL



ACTUELLE ★★★★ If had a chapeau to hand, I would eat it As it is. I’ll have to settle for ingesting my words. When I first reviewed Actuelle. I found it off-putting and said so. However, as the months passed, and reliable sources continued to file reports of formidable meals at Actuelle, I revisited for lunch and dinner and found my sources to be correct. Although breast of Long island duck with angel-hair pasta was on the fatty side everything else, including tortilla soup with smoked chicken and serrano chilies and a dessert of apple-almond custard tord with caramel sauce, ranged from remarkably good to perfect. Service is excellent, and the setting is austerely attractive The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. 855-0440 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Alt credit cards. Expensive.



CAFÉ ROYAL ★★★★ Romance may be invaluable, but a romantic dinner shouldn’t cost more than a used car Café Royal’s $34.50 fixed-price dinner, which changes daily, is reasonably priced and. thanks to the lovely setting and skillful service, unreasonably romantic. The run-down on one night’s uniformly well-prepared options: an appetizer of a salad with quail breast or an artichoke bottom with lobster ragout and caviar butter sauce: a green salad or red-wine sorbet: an entrée of sliced loin of lamb with wild mushrooms and a shallot and sage sauce or fillet of John Dory with angel-hair pasta and lemon thyme sauce, and a choice of dessert. Plaza of the Americas. 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. Expensive.



CHEZ GÉRARD ★★★ Now that Calluaud has laid down its life to become a parking lot tor the Hard Rock Cafe. its a safe bet that former Calluaud regulars will be joining the already healthy crowds at Chez Gérard (which is also a Guy and Martine Calluaud operation). The highlights of my most recent dinner checkup visit were topflight treatments of sautéed lamb chop with parsley and garlic and floating island (poached meringue floating atop vanilla custard) Shrimp rémoulade, cassoulet (a stew of white beans and sausage that Francophiles adore and the less reverent refer to as the Gallic version of beans and weenies). and crème caramel were less distinguished, but still well within Chez Gérard’s range of dependable quality. 4444 McKinney 522-6865 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.



THE FRENCH ROOM ★★★★ With its cherubs, vaulted ceiling, and trompe l’oeil garden, the rosy-hued French Room is far and away the most baroque-looking restaurant in Dallas. In the five years since its opening, it has had its culinary ups and downs, happily however, a re-cent visit suggested that it is m an up cycle From salads (green bean and green salad with goat cheese croutons) to entrées (salmon and rack of lamb) to dessert (apple tart), the food was all that one could ask for. What’s more, the sommelier is both congenial and well-informed: he is as happy to advise customers on a single glass of wine as a rare bottle. Adolphus Hotel 1321 Commerce. 742-8200 Mon-Sat 6-10. Jackets and l



THE GRAPE ★★★★ The Grape’s setting-dark as a candle-lit dungeon, with red-checked tablecloths and touches of vinous kitsch – makes it an ideal hangout for Lower Greenville’s resident Bohemian yuppies. The Grape paraphernalia displayed near the door – including T-shirts and a cookbook-suggests that what we have here is not so much a restaurant as a way of life. Although the Grape still serves the cheese and patè offerings that were Its specialty when it opened in 1972. pasta and fish specials are the ticket these days. 2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.



L’Ancestral ★★★ L’Ancestral has moved from its funky former Lower Greenville location to the considerably slicker Travis Walk, but the food and the feeling are essentially unchanged, and the Vuilleret family is still very much in evidence. Now as before, fish is not the wisest choice here; much better to go with the steak au poivre or the lamb chops with herb butter and peerless pommes frites L’Ancestrals trademark clafouti dessert-a dense, lender custard with black cher-ries-is as good as ever. 4514 Travis. 5281081 Lunch Mon-Sat 11:15-4; dinner: Mon-Thur 5 pm-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 6-10. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.



L’ENTRECOTE ★★★★ After a long sliding spell. L’Entre-cote has. as the French say, pulled up its socks. Thanks to the efforts of chef Michel Platz. the Loews Anatole s French restaurant is once again one of the best in the city. Watercress and endive salad with pink grapefruit was an exceptionally refreshing appetizer Gratin of crawfish tails with ginger was light and satisfying, and lorn of lamb with rosemary and shallot coulis was a must for lamb fans Finally, dessert-banana beignets with coconut mousse-was a killer. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy 748-1200 Wed-Mon 6-10:30 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards Expensive to very expensive.



MADAME CHANG ★★★★ This product of gastronomic cross-pollination-specifically, of French and Chinese cuisine-is an attractive, if very formal-feeling, place Standouts on the menu are the sautéed breast of chicken with pine nuts, red peppers, snow peas, and ginger; grilled famb chops with creamy mint sauce; and salmon steak and prawns with tomato-shrimp cream sauce. The Crescent, 2200 Cedar Springs. 871-3838. Sun-Thur 1 1 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11;bar open daily 11 am-1 am. All credit cards. Expensive.



THE RIVIERA ★★★★★ l have attended Grateful Dead concerts that were quieter than the Riviera on a Saturday night, but minor hearing loss is a small price to pay for first-rate food in a charming setting. A green salad was nicely set off by sherry vinaigrette, and came with a delectable goat cheese crouton. Sun-dried tomato and smoked bell pepper soup was satisfying, if heavy on the bacon. Norwegian salmon and sea scallops steamed with white wine and served with a light rosemary sauce was one of the best treatments of salmon I’ve ever tasted. And duck breast with intensely flavored lavender and honey sauce was worthwhile, too. For dessert the creditable, very buttery-tasting Grand Marnier crème brulée was outshone by the ethereally light apple tart with almond cream and caramel sauce. 7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Sun-Thur 6:30 pm-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPE



BOHEMIA ★★★★ Have you heard the one about Czech food? A week later and you’re hungry again. At Bohemia, the attraction is sturdy Eastern European food-like Wiener schnitzel, pork roast, and bread dumplings- served in delicately charming surroundings (lace curtains, tulip lamps, Viennese waltzes). Two bonuses: the by-the-glass wines are well chosen, and service is efficient and unobtrusive. With one notable exception (being under a quilt with your sweetie), there is no better place than Bohemia to be on a nippy day. 2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-9:30pm. Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Moderate.



CAFÉ Kashtan ★★★ A recent dinner visit here was relatively disappointing, but that was mostly because my party was collectively starving and service was ex-cruciatingly slow. However, it also didn’t help that kulebiaka. that utterly satisfying mélange of chicken, rice, and mushrooms baked in a pastry shell-wasn’t on the dinner menu. Still, the salanka, an intensely flavored broth with bits of beef, sausage, and vegetables accompanied by pirozki, a meat-filled roll, the chicken Kiev, the veal Soblianka with mushroom sauce, and the almond cake with raspberry sauce were appeasingly excellent. 5365 Spring Valley Rd at Montfort. 991-9550. Tue-Thur 5 pm-10 pm,Fri & Sat 5 pm-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



HOFSTETTER’S ★★★★ Tucked away in the Plaza at Bachman Creek, Hofstetter’s is a Viennese jewel. Here, in a setting that leads one to expect nothing more than sandwich-shop fare, some of the best Germanic cuisine in the area is served. Sandwiches, coffees, and desserts are listed on the menu, but the real action is on the blackboard, which lists the daily specials. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy. 358- 7660. Mon. Tue. Thur 11 am-9 pm; Wed. Fri. Sat 11 am-10 pm. MC. V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



INDIAN



AKBAR ★★★★ Old India hands will want to thoroughly explore the byways of this restaurant’s menus. That’s plural – there are two of them, the regular menu and the snack bar menu. Although the regular menu is praiseworthy, it is Akbar’s snack bar that conclusively sets it apart from its peers. Snack-bar highlights include aloo tikki, grilled potato cutlets with curried chickpeas; samosa, tender turnovers stuffed with herbed potatoes and peas; and malai kotta, curry, cheese, and vegetable dumplings in a cream and almond sauce. 2115 Promenade Center at Coil & Belt Line roads. 235-0260. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm, dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-10 30. Sat & Sun brunch 11:30-2:30. MC, V, AE Inexpensive.

BOMBAY CURRY HOUSE ★★★ This latest entrant in the local Indian-food derby is small, charming, and well worth seeking out. The $3.95 weekday lunch buflet was well prepared, if shorter on selection than some Indian but. lets around. At dinner, an appetizer of lamb samosas (turnovers filled with spiced ground famo and peas) and a dessert of rasmalai (fresh homemade cottage cheese patties) were standouts. However, this is not to discount the virtues of the Tandoori mixed grill, Bombay shrimp curry, and lamb sagwala that came in between 11613 N Central at Forest- 373-9700, Lunch daily 11-2:30; dinner daily 5:30-10 All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



CURRY IN, CURRY OUT ★★★★ Love the name. Also love the food and the prices. This charming little family-run establishment may be somewhat spartan in appearance, but it is immaculate, and the food that emerges from the kitchen is well worth a trip to Garland, even it you don’t five nearby. One more incentive. prices are shockingly low. If you’re serious about Indian food. Curry In, Curry Out is required eating. As the name suggests, meals may be eaten in or earried out Northwest Crossing Shopping Center. 1250 Northwest Highway. 681-0087. Tue-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm. Sat noon-10 pm, Sun noon-9 pm Closed Mon. No credit cards. Inexpensive.



India Palace ★★★ I’ve given up on keeping track of the shitting, intricate lineage of who owns which local Indian restaurants, but it doesn’t matter. because they’re all quite good at the moment. India Palace is no exception to this general rule of excellence. Whether you order à la carte or opt for the weekend buffet brunch, you’ll be happy with the food here India Palace’s exceptionally thoughtful service is a bonus. 13360 Preston 392-0190. Lunch Mon-Fri 112. Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm All credit cards. Moderate.



ITALIAN



DIPALMA ★★★ This Italian eat-in/take-Out shop/restaurant has been loo popular lor its own good ever since it opened. This means that Zen-like patience is required to have dinner here on weekend nights. However, lunch is possible even for extreme Type A’s. The chicken sandwich is a standout-the chicken breast marinated in olive oil. lemon juice. and red peppers is grilled and served on olive oil bread with lettuce, tomato, and vinaigrette. And for dessert, you can hardly go wrong with any selection from the pastry cases 1520 Greenville. 824-4500. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3: dinner Mon-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun MC. V, AE Moderate



LA TOSCA ★★★ This chic, minimalist restaurant was designed by the late Perry Bentley, and it still looks as fresh in 1987 as it did when it opened in 1981. The food has also worn well, especially the state-of-the-art tortellini and veal scallopine with lemon sauce. 7713 In-wood. 352-8373. Sun& Tue-Thur 6 pm-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6 pm-11 pm. Sun noon-9 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.



MOMO’S ★★★ Momo’s is small, plain, and disorgan-ized – none of which matters to devotees of its pastas and pizzas At lunch, mostly pizzas- including a wonderfully forceful tasting one of tomato, mozzarella. and gorgonzola – are available. At dinner, the menu is more extensive (Pasta, such as tortelli di spinaci. is a much better idea than veal, which can be dauntingly chewy.) You can have any wine you want at Momo’s as long as you bring it yourself. 9191 Forest Lane. 234-6800. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 pm. dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30 pm. Fri 6-11 pm. Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:30-9 pm. MC. V. Moderate.



NERO’S ITALIAN ★★★ The food is good enough here, but it isn’t great, and it certainly doesn’t come cheap. What, then, accounts for the Two-hour waits on weekends? I suspect it’s that ol’ debbil ambience. Nero’s is made to order for dates or get-reacquainted-with-your-spouse sessions, at least if your date or spouse is a stylish, ironic character. (Diana Vreeland and Catholic-school veterans should feel particularly at home here because of the red walls and the Michael the Archangel lamps.) There is an extensive menu of pasta, veal, and seafood, but the two things to concentrate on are the Italian wine-the selection is great, and the staff well-informed – and the pizza, which comes in both traditional and New Wave varieties. 2104 Greenville. 826-6376. Mon-Thur 6-11 pm. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. Moderate.



RISTORANTE SAVINO ★★★ Savino does well on both the congeniality and the food front. A recent visit was notable for warm service and commendable versions Of spaghetti carbonara. fettuccine with gorgonzola and walnuts, and vitello tonnato, that refreshing combination of veal and tuna sauce. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & $at 5:30-ll. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.



SFIZI ★★ Sfizi is an odd, rewarding little WesT End eating establishment. Odd because this presumably Italian restaurant includes nachos among its appetizers, rewarding because its tortellini in cream sauce is one of the best versions in the city Obviously, this is a menu that requires care in ordering: the same lunch that featured the aforementioned stellar tortelIini also included dull salads and ravioli. In any case, prices are low, and the informal setting is airy and pleasant. 1718 Market. 698-9390. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-2am. Sat noon-2 am, Sun noon-11 pm. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



311 LOMBARDI’S ★★★★ What is the Italian translation of “good karma”? Our waiter didn’t know, but 311 Lombar-di’s has achieved it. Here, surrounded by the glow created by creamy apricot walls, happy hordes of downtown workers get what may well be the best Italian food in town at reasonable prices. No pasta was visible in the pasta and bean soup, but it was a hearty. herb-enlivened delight anyway A pizza with leeks, pancetta. goat cheese, and mushrooms could have held its own against New York’s best. The next stop on the menu was good enough to be required eating for potato-philes. potato gnocchi with two sauces (tomato and irresistible gorgonzola). A tender, thin veal cutlet topped with arugula and diced tomatoes was simply immense. Dessert of raspberry ice cream and respectable espresso rounded off a repast that was pure pleasure from start to finish. 311 Market. 747-0322. Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight, Fri 11 am-1 am, Sal 5 pm-1 am, Sun 5-I0 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



JAPANESE/KOHEAN



MR.SUSHI ★★★★ It’s all raw fish to me. but a number of my friends are dedicated seekers of sushi, and the most serious of them swears by Mr Sushi. My friend was moved by the “sushi B” dinner-tuna, white meat fish, yellowtail, jumbo dam. shrimp, salmon, smell egg, salmon egg, cooked egg. and tuna roll-and I was appeased by the sautéed soft-shell crab and perfect shrimp tempura. The Quorum. 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sal 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. All credit cards. Moderate.



SHOGUN ★★★ Shogun serves commendable versions of the standards of Japanese cuisine – lightly battered tempura, juicy teriyaki chicken, and fresh-tasting sushi (commonly referred to as “bait” by non-aficionados) – in a pleasingly serene atmosphere. The only element of the plentiful, reasonably priced lunch that took me aback was the unidentified soup. For all I know, it was superb by the standards of the East, but it resembled primordial ooze from my Occidental viewpoint. This small restaurant is exceptionally pleasant, thanks to the quietly efficient service. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. Moderate.



Sushi On McKinney ★★★ As a rute, the sushi is a better

bet than the cooked things at this self-styled “friendly post-modern sushi bar.” The atmosphere is lively to the point of freneticism, which is either a refreshing or a disturbing change from the traditionally quiet, subdued atmosphere of local Japanese restaurants. 4500 McKinney. 521-0969. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Moderate.

CITY MARKET ★★★★ City Market has acquired a loyal following of downtown habitués hungry for fresh, imaginative soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts However, in the past the pleasures of this light, airy, upscale cafeteria were unpredictable. If, for instance, you loved the marigold mint chicken salad, it might be weeks before you and ri were on the premises on the same day. Now, with the advent of menus printed every week. City Market regulars can predict with assurance when it will be possible to eat pasta salad with Indonesian peanut sauce or marinated beef salad with multi-colored bell peppers. Whatever else you get, the light, soufflé-like apricot-raisin bread pudding should not be missed. 200 L TV Center, 2001 Ross at Harwood. 979-2696 Mon-Fri 7 am-4:30 pm. MC, V. Inexpensive.



PACIFIC EXPRESS ★★★★ Pacific Express, a chic eighty-eight-seat cafeteria, makes the hasty downtown lunch into an art form. I happen to be obsessed with the tuna salad with toasted almonds, grapes, and blue cheese in tarragon mayonnaise, but the smoked chicken salad with toasted walnuts and shallot vermouth mayonnaise has its devotees, too Other choices include pasta salad, wild rice salad, and several sandwiches. Pacific Place Biag, 1910 Elm, Suite 103 969-7447. Mon-Fri 8 am- 10 am & 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



THEO’S DINER ★★★ Although the lyrics don’t specify Theo’s by name,I suspect that Theo’s grilled ham and cheese sandwich is what Janet Jackson has in mind when she makes musical reference to nasty food in “Nasty Boys.” With ils garlic-buttered Texas toast, this is the ultimate grilled-cheese thrill. As for the fries, some people think they’re the best in Dallas. Others disagree; they think they’re the best on the planet Then there is the ambience, which could hardly be more intimate -there are just nine seats around the counter One more attraction: the proprietor’s plot summaries of “All My Children” 111 S Halt St. 741-9130. Mon-Fri 7 am-4 pm, Sal 8 am-3 am. No credit cards, inexpensive



MEXICAN



ANTONIO’S ★★★ Although one has to order with care to assure hitting the highlights. Antonio’s is worth a trip for anyone serious about Mexican food Recommended: nachos. which are made with first-class ingredients (black beans, white cheese, fresh-tasting guacamole, jalapenos, and real, runny sour cream), rich-tasting black bean soup, shrimp with a subtly nutty pumpkin-seed sauce, coconut flan, and merengue (whipped cream or chocolate ice cream sandwiched between two layers of egg-white pastry). 14849 Inwood (south at Beit Line). Addison. 490-9557. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm; dinner Mon-Thur 4 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



CANTINA LAREDO ★★★★ A belief shared by many Mexican food enthusiasts hereabouts is that great Mex can only be found in grungy. time-worn establishments located in the vicinity of Maple Avenue. However, holding to this belief would mean missing out on Can-tina Laredo, which is situated in a clean, new building in-yes-Addison. Standard Tex-Mex combinations are available here, and they’re quite good. but the com-ida casera-home-style food-is where the smart money is Standouts include the tacos al pastor filled with marinated pork, cabrito (baby goat to you, gringo), mesquite-grilled shrimp with garlic butter, and red snapper with lime butter. 4546 Bell Line. Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.



CASA ROSA ★★★ This has long been a preppy hangout supreme, and in this instance those well-scrubbed WASPs in Ralph Lauren attire are on to something. From chili con queso to botanas especiales (bean, chicken, and beef nachos, marinated beef strips; and flautitas with sour cream and guacamole) to the Puerto Vallarta combination (beef taco. enchilada with chili con carne, chicken enchilada with sour cream sauce, and Spanish rice) to praline cheesecake for dessert, everything (except for the underdone, too-tomatoey Spanish rice) was well-prepared, if not in the forefront of culinary innovation. Inwood Village. Inwood at Lovers Lane, Suite 165. 350-5227. Mon-Thur 11 am-3 pm & 5-10 pm.Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat 11 am-11 pm. Sun 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



CHIMI’S ★★ Dallas isn’t exactly lacking for Mexican restaurants with food in the decent-to-noteworthy range and a cheerful. airy setting. So. while Chimi’s so-called Sonoran cuisine, which tastes a whole lot like regular Tex-Mex to me, is nothing revolutionary, it is cause for good cheer among Bryan Place’s urban pioneers. Brannon Building, Bryan & Peak. 826-0541. Sun-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards Inexpensive.



GENARO’S ★★★ With its tropical an-deco look, Genaro’s is the prettiest place in town for margarita consumption. Happily, for the most part, the food matches the margantas. Enchiladas Genaro, filled with snapper and crab meat, were extremely gratifying. And even if chicken with jalapeno and tomatillo cream sauce topped with pumpkin seeds arrived sans pumpkin seeds, the accompanying black beans and pea-studded rice were pleasing, anyway And the coconut ice cream was lushly satisfying, as always. 5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30pm. Fri-Sun 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



D REVISITS

MARTINEZ CAFE ★★★ Tex-Mex abounds in Dallas; top-notch Tex-Mex. however, is relatively rare. That’s where Martinez Cafe comes in. It’s been a long time since standard-issue Tex-Mex made me sit up and fake notice as I did here There’s nothing outré on the menu, just the standards, prepared as they should be Here you will find snappy salsa, notable nachos, tasty tacos, and enticing enchiladas. Just one caveat: if Mexican food and margaritas are synonymous in your book, don’t come to Martinez Cafe. There aren’t any margaritas to be had. though beer and wine are available. 3011 Routh. 855-0240. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11 -3; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. No credit cards, inexpensive.



MlA’S ★★★ For lo these many years, I have been hearing about the chile rellenos at Mia’s. And for lo these many years, I have been missing out on the chile rellenos at Mia’s I would remember that they were available only on Tuesday, but forget they were available only at dinner on Tuesday. I would remember that they were available only at dinner on Tuesday, but they would be sold out. Recently, thanks to a kind-hearted waitress who let me have her pre-reserved relleno. I finally tasted the elusive entrée, stuffed with ground beef, potato, and raisins, and can report that the result was worth the wait. The rest of Mia’s menu is above-average, but it’s the relleno-and the warm service-that make the place worthy of cult status. 4418 Lemmon. 526-1020. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner Mon-Fri 5-10. Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



RlCARDO’S ★★★ This latest in the area’s supply Of “Miami Vice’-style Mexican restaurants offering {pretty pastel settings and tropically influenced food) proves that there is gastronomic civilization even as one travels so far north as to sight the Oklahoma border. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



UNCLE JULIO’S ★★ The decor is heavy on pink and purple, and the food is notable more for its quantity-portions range from generous to immense – than for its quality One notable exception: the tamales, which are available with pork and with chicken, are excellent. Beware, however, of the mesquite-grilled specialties, which are overwhelmingly woody tasting. 4125 Lem-mon Ave. 520-6620. Sun-Thur 11 am-IOpm.Fri & Sat 11-11. MC. V. AE. Moderate



VlLLA MARGARITA ★★★ If you were just tooling around in the Coil-Belt Line area, chances are that you’d miss Villa Margarita unless you knew it was there. This is a shame, because VM is one of the best Mexican restaurants north of LBJ. Here, in pretty pastel surroundings, you can have some of the best nachos (with black beans, white cheese, and sour cream) to be had in these parts Alter the nachos, the standard Tex-Mex is fine, but I prefer the lender, flavorful carne asada. 362 Promenade Center, Coit & Belt Line, Richardson 235-5447. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun 11 am-9pm. MC, V. AE. Moderate.



SEAFOOD



CAFE PACIFIC ★★★★★ There are a lot of first-rate waiters working in Dallas, buT Don at Café Pacific has to be in the very top rank. Even if the food hadn’t been as close to perfection as mere mortals can approach, his courtly but never pretentious manner and ability to be there ex-actly when you need him would still have made a recent lunch at Café Pacific a pleasure. All the same, Chinese chicken salad and a daily special of red snapper with a julienne of snow peas were all that they could and should have been. Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 526-1170. Lunch Mon-Sat 11.30-230, Sun 10:30-2:30, dinner Sun-Thur 530-10:30. Fri & Sat 530-11. All credit cards. Expensive.



GULF COAST OYSTER COMPANY ★★★ This casual little restaurant with a misleading name-oysters aren’t the only focus of attention, and the place has a Greek, not a Gulf Coast, accent-takes its seafood seriously A meal here starts with pita bread and Greek dips and segues to such main courses as broiled trout (which could hardly be simpler-or better) or broiled shrimp with rice. Corner Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE. Moderate.



NEWPORT’S ★★★★ When Newport’s hits, as il did on an order of trout amandine on my last visit, its as good as any seafood restaurant in town. Unfortunately, on this same visit, swordfish kebabs were below par. However, such instances are anomalies in my experience Which is a good thing, because unlike its competitors for serious seafood-Atlantic Cafe and Café Pacific – Newport’s can’t rely on a gorgeous setting (the vast, woody setting is merely inoffensive) or polished service (the waiter was bungling). 703 McKin-ney in the Brewery. 954-0220 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 All credit cards. Expensive.



SOUTHERN



CELEBRATION ★★★ My friend suggested that we should have an argument at dinner to make Celebration authentically family-style. Even if you can’t manage to stage a family feud Celebration is likely to live up to its billing. The simple concept – Southern fare, with salad. rolls, muffins, vegetables, and most entrées in all-you-can-eat quantities – packs them in every night of the week. The delectable, il oversweetened. little biscuits and muffins and the immense wooden bowl filled with green salad would be enough for those of normal appetite Still, most patrons press on to such entrees as pot roast (Mom never did better] or chicken-fried steak (Mom did much better) and vegetables (broccoli, squash, and mashed potatoes on our visit}. For dessert. peach cobbler was pleasingly doughy and cinnamon-scented Celebration’s rustic, woody setting is comfortable, and service is pleasant and efficient. 4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch daily 11-2:30, dinner Mon-Thur 5 30-10. Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 11 am-10 pm All credit cards Moderate.



CHAISE LOUNGE ★★★★ “This Is The Place Your Mother Warned You About.’’ says the sign outside. The food served inside this dark roadhouse is swell corn and conch chowder. pan-fried trout, and rice and raisin pudding with heavy cream are transcendently noteworthy. If you don’t like to rock out to Cajun music, either go for lunch or sit in the kitchen at dinner. 3010 N Henderson 823-1400. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Mon-Sat 4 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.

Highland Park CAFETERIA ★★★★ standing in line at HPC and moving past the portraits of the presidents is a ritual of unmatched resonance in Dallas dining. HPC is a treasured local institution, from the Southern classics on the menu to the line staff, some of whom have been on the job for decades. Perhaps as a result, many regulars believe that heaven itself will resemble HPC, with hairnetted attendants querying, “Serve you?” and booths always available. The menu on cloud nine: ham or chicken-fried steak, green beans, mashed potatoes and cream gravy, a jalapeno corn muffin, and cherry cobbler. The Addison and downtown branches have their virtues, but they don’t reproduce the allure of the original Knox Street location. 4611 Cole. 526-3801. Village on the Parkway. 5100 Belt Une at Dallas Pkwy. Suite 600. 934-8800 N; downtown. 500 Akard at San Jacinto. Suite 220. 740-2400. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm at Cole location; Mon Sat 11 am-8 pm. Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Village on the Parkway location; Mon-Fri 6.30 am-2 pm at downtown location. No credit cards. MC. V, AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $10. Inexpensive.



MAMA TAUGHT ME HOW ★★★★ Here is a down-home dream come true: lovingly prepared versions of the greatest hits of Dixified cuisine That name, incidentally, is no trumped-up product of marketing strategy. Mama is Doris Alexander, her daughters are Judy Sharp and Vickie Piland, and together they run the place with a combination of charm and warmth that is as specific to the South as are grits. Standouts include the red beans and rice, chicken-fried steak (both available every day), chicken and dumplings, and coconut cream pie (which are available only on some days) 14902 Preston Rd #512 (SE corner of Preston & Belt Line) in Pepper Square. 490-6301. Mon-Fri 7 am-2;30 pm. Thur 5-8 pm No credit cards, personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



ROSEMARIE’S ★★★★ In the days when l toiled at The Dallas Morning News, one of my prescriptions for a bad morning was a quick trip across the bridge to Oak Cliff for lunch at Rosemarie’s. These days. I don’t make it to Rosemarie’s quite so often, but when I do, it’s like old-home week. Rosemarie Hudson never forgets a customer, and her warmth accounts in part for the fanatical loyalty this little cafeteria-style operation inspires; the terrific chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, yeast rolls, and peanut butter pie also might have something to do with it. 1411 N Zang. 946-4142. Mon-Fri 11-2. No credit cards. Inexpensive.



STEAKS



DEL FRISCO’S ★★★★★ In this age of Perrier, fish, and steamed vegetables, every so often it is important to Balance the system with red wine, beef, and baked potatoes. Del Frisco’s, a straight-ahead steak house with premium fare and prices to match, is made for just such occasions An appetizer of shrimp rémoulade was as good a version as you’ll find this side of New Orleans (which happens to be where owner Del Frisco hails from). I was quite happy with my saftball-sized eight-ounce filet until I tasted the twelve-ounce rib-eye that my partner in cholesterol had ordered. This was a steak to remember -a supremely flavorful piece of meat. Some things to bear in mind: your steak will arrive in a pool of melted butter unless you nix this idea. Side dishes are ordered à la carte, and in portions immense enough for four And bread pudding fans are advised to plan their meal to allow for Del Frisco’s version with raisins, coconut, and Jack Daniel’s sauce. 4300 Lemmon. 526-2101. Mon-Thur 5 pm-10 pm. Fri & Sal 5-11. Sun 5 pm-9 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.



LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB ★★★★ Finding myself once again on the verge of the big NB (nervous breakdown). decided on dinner at Lawry’s The only choices are prime rib. prime rib, and prime rib -in three cuts -so the stress of ordering is minimal. And the fare is hardcore comfort food that takes the overwrought diner back a couple of decades to the Sunday-dinner fare of a simpler time. The beef was tender and flavorful; and the accompaniments- including a salad of Romaine iceberg, and watercress, mashed potatoes, and creamed spinach- were admirable. At lunch there are also chicken, fish, and salad options, but prime rib is the point here. At lunch or dinner, the look of Lawry’s is surreally baronial, with tapestry and massive furniture abounding. 3008 Maple. 521-7777. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri 6-11:30. Sal 5:30-11:30. Sun 5-10: Sun brunch 11:30-2. All credit cards Expensive



PALM ★★★★ The Palm is a weird experience for first-timers, to judge from the comments of the friend who accompanied me on my last checkup lunch She knew it was famous for huge, expensive lobsters and steaks, and. logically enough, expected the place to he plush and serious-looking, instead, of course, the decor, such as it is. consists of the worst caricatures ever committed to paper of the locally famous and semi-famous. Lunch at the Palm, it turns out, is a really good idea. The lunch specials are less pricey than the choices at dinner, and they’re frequently better. 701 Ross. 698-0470. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri 11:30 am-11 pm. Sat 5-10:30 pm. Sun 5-9:30 pm All credit cards. Expensive.

TAKEOUT



CRESCENT GOURMET ★★ ★ The Crescent Gourmet offers some of the best naked goods in town for breakfast The croissants. Danishes, and muffins are done right-and on the premises. Any of the aforementioned, along with fresh-squeezed juice, would start any day right. At lunch, there are plenty of reasonably priced sandwiches and salads to choose from, including the knockout pizzas served next door at Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court. Suite 150, Maple at McKin-ney 871-3223 Mon-Fri 7 am-5:30 pm, Sal 10:30 am-3 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate



EVERYDAY GOURMET ★★★★★ This is the takeout establishment that I’ve been waiting for-or it would be. if only it kept later hours. The food is homey in the best sense, but never tastes amateurish The fare changes. but peerless meat loaf and chicken salad are two standards, and the prices for this simple perfection are reasonable. 4446 Lovers Lane. 373-0325. Mon-Fri 7:30 am-7 pm. Sat 8 am-5:30 pm. MC. V. Inexpensive to moderate.



MARTY’S ★★★★ Dallas’s longest established gourmet yuppeteria continues to offer the rarest of commodities: thoughtful advice. Therefore, when dinner and accompanying wine must be acquired speedily, I tend to turn to Marty’s. The last such last-minute foray resulted in vegetables vinaigrette, moussaka. German potato salad, apple-walnut cobbler, and a bottle of Sausal Zin-fandel All the elements of this meal were individually pleasing and collectively wonderful 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070 Mon-Sat 10 am-6 30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Marty’s charge. Expensive



THAI



SIAM ★★★★★ Gone from the scene for more than two years. Siam has returned in a new location. The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever the pork satay comes with peerless curried peanut sauce, the spring rolls are commendable, the beef salad is rolling in leaves of fresh mint, and pud That, a dish of rice noodles with shrimp, ground peanuts, and scrambled egg, tastes better here than anywhere Now more than ever. Siam is one of Dallas’s all-time great Asian restaurants. Northwest Corners Shopping Center. 2415 W Northwest Highway #108 (accessible from Harry Hinest .358-3122 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES

CACMAREL ★★★★ This pretty establishment with a glassed-in exhibition kitchen has a fixed price of $10 for lunch and $22 for dinner The fare-including such Gallic classics as green salad with goat cheese, asparagus soup, scallops with an assertive tarragon sauce, and lamb with a natural-|uice sauce- would be worth twice the tariff. Brookhollow Two. 2221 E Lamar. Suite 910. Arlington. 640-9981. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate.



China Terrace ★★★ i like to think that I will forgive almost anything for good food. However, if that were the case, the well-prepared steamed dumplings, Szechwan beef, and shrimp with snow peas that I tried on my last visit to China Terrace would have left me happy Instead, the harshly lit setting and the tough-luck attitude of the service (a request for a beer at 9:55 was refused because the bar was closed) put a significant dent in my sense of well being 5435 N MacArlhur. Irving. 550-1113. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. MC. V.AE Moderate.



VIA REAL ★★★ Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists The contents of the menu are as fresh as the look of the place-you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence. The appetizers include such novelties as crepa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crêpes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce). Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end. Town North Centre. 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate. Irving. 255-0064 Lunch Mon-Sat 11-5; dinner Sun-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat 5-11; Sun brunch 10-2 All credit cards Moderate.



FORT WORTH

LE CHARDONNAY ★★★★ Former Ceret che1 Philip Lecoq is a co-owner of this new bistro, and its combination of serious food and an informal atmosphere is reminiscent of that late, lamented establishment. The iamb chops topped with goat cheese, served with a rosemary sauce and accompanied by herbed French fries, are a standout 2443 Forest Park Blvd. Fort Worth. (817) 926-5622 Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-10 pm. Sat 6 pm-10 pm. Sun 11 am-2 30 pm MC. V Moderate.



D R E V I S I T S

THE ORIENTAL ★★★ Come the weekend, and normal people grab a bite at the nearest eatery that appeals. Restaurant critics and their long-suffering friends head out for North Richland Hills, where they have been told terrific That food is to be found- and where they are misdirected by the local constabulary, and so arrive after closing time. To the credit of the kind-hearted staff of the Oriental, the group in question was fed in spite of the hour. And the food was worth any amount of driving, especially the pork salé with peanut sauce, the risibly named “Earth, Wind and Fire Part II” (which translates to breast of chicken with cashew nuts and vegetables). and That doughnuts, with an orange-peanut sauce for dipping. (And thanks to reader Lisa Bain Grossman lor the recommendation ) 6455 Hilltop Dr, North Richland Hills. (817) 656-2144 Lunch Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30 pm: dinner Tue-Thur 430 pm-9:30 pm. Fri & Sat 4:30 pm 10:30 pm. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



SAINT. EMILION ★★★★ Considering the four-course fixed price of S20 per person it’s surprising that more Dallasites don’t make the trek to Saint-Emilion The last time I did. the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leaf lettuce radicchio. watercress, walnuts, and bits of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start. (Order the last with the boneless quail and you’ve got the snail-and-quail special.) Juicy swordfish provencal and nicely roasted duck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for (Actually, one could ask that the duck be boned) For dessert, pass on the fluffy, lightweight chocolate mousse and opt for the extraordinary crème caramel. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Mon-Fri 11 30 am-2 pm & 6-l0 pm. Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun MC, V, AE. Moderate-



NIGHTLIFE

BOILER ROOM. Walk inside and It’s easy to see how this bar got its name: it’s the actual boiler room of the old Sunshine Biscuit Company However, this has nothing to do with its popularity as a dance club and the best new singles bar close to downtown. Some may feel inhibited dancing in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows next to the dance floor, others wont want to leave. Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603 Monger. 9880581. Daily noon-2 am. MC. V. AE



BOWLEY & WILSON’S, If you re looking for a place to have your church social, don’t come here Not for the faint of heart or timid of ear Bowley and Wilson dish out hysterical music and humor that landed them m jail on one occasion. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced, humor-filled evening, Bowley & Wilson and the Blue Bathroom Humor Band are for you You can win free drinks by being a good sport when they ask you to join in the act Win free Kamikazes by successfully singing “Old Ben Lucas” in front of the audience. 4714 Greenville 692-6470 Tue-Sat 7:30 pm-2 am. Show starts at 930. Cover varies MC. V. AE



BRIO. Its amazing how the herd instinct works at these Upper Greenville dance clubs. Just when you think one of these places is going to become an institution, wham’, another one opens down the street and the fast-and-sexy singles crowd shifts allegiance. The latest one that is mounting incredible business-lines snake out the door almost every night – is Brio, where the hot-and-hungry do the predictable sneak glances at one another, buy each other drinks, ask each other what they do. and then, after a dance or two, talk about what a wonderful thing it is to meet someone special at a place like this! Then they return the next night to do it all over again 5500 Greenville. Suite 403 361-9517 Mon-Thur 4 pm-2 am. Fri 4-3. Sat 7 pm-3 am. Sun 8 pm-2 am. M. V. AE



CHEERS. Looking for a good dive bar to watch a basketball game? Or how about a small, casual place for a hamburger or sandwich? ’Well they’re both here The crowd was starting to make this place look like an SMU dorm. Changes were made to accommodate the over twenty-one drinking crowd, and it’s working 5114 Greenville. 692-5738 Daily 3 pm-2 am. MC. V.AE.DC



DlCK’S LAST RESORT, The customers of this restaurant/bar spend most of their time saying, over and over. “Excuse me.” The place is usually standing room only, and with good reason It’s a fun oar offering live Dixieland music. bench seating. and decent food that comes in a bucket. As the West End grows, so will the crowds. But not at Dick’s – they can’t get any bigger Corner of Ross and Record 747-0001 Mon-Thur 11 30am-1 am. Fri &Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Sun 1 pm-midnight MC. V AE.



EMRELD CITY. We have no idea why one of the most popular dance bands in Dallas Emerald City, decided that the name of its new nightclub would be spelled dil-ferently than the band’s own name Nor did we understand when the club’s manager labeled the club’s hot pink-and-black interior as ’erotic art deco And we know what a gamble it is lor the same band to play one nightclub five nights a week three weeks a month, and hope to keep drawing larger crowds. But Emerald City. which has been playing in Dallas for seven years, can put together a super-charged set- and it’s worth a trip. 4908 Greenville 361-2489. Sun-Thur 8 pm-2 am.Fri & Sat 7 pm-2 am Closed Mon MC. V. AE



ETCETERA. Think of all the names this hot North Dallas bar has been called: Papagayo. in Cahoots, etc. Oh, wait The last one is actually the name of the bar now, and it’s the latest one to attract long customer lines. It’s hot for all the right reasons: search lights outside crass the sky. waitresses slink by in hand-painted uniforms a dress code encourages expensive clothes, and most important, it’s the newest place on the street. 8796 N Central Expwy. in NonhPark East. 692-5417 Mon-Thur 4 30 pm-2 am. Fri 4:30 pm-3 am, Sal 8 pm-3 am. Sun 8 pm-2 am MC. V. AE



FAST & COOL Fast & Cool is undisputably the King of Lower Greenville The music here is predominantly Motown sound and authentic soul from artists like James Brown and Ike and Tina Turner The dance floor is the center of this liny universe, and it has a magnetic effect on anyone who walks in the door. It’s hard to imagine even the most hard-core Baptist resisting this dance floor. Unlike countless dance clubs that have come and gone on Greenville Avenue. this place has staying power. 3606 Greenville 827-5544 Sun & Tue-Thur 8 pm-2 am. Fri & Sat 7-4 Closed Mon. Cover S3 Thur; $4 Fri & Sat. MC. V AE



FAT TUESDAY. You can laissez les bon temps roulez in this spacious pleasure barn, though even a healthy crowd seems swallowed up here. The Mardi Gras mood is enhanced by the huge, festive masks that adorn the walls, especially the striking sun mask that smiles over the bar – our first nomination for the Dallas Museum of Nightclub Art. Ultimately, of course, the Bourbon Street spirit depends on spirits, and Fat Tuesday delivers. More than a dozen high-octane mixtures churn perpetually in blenders: the aptly named Crawgator, a house specialty, mixes three kinds of rum, brandy, and juices The Cajun buffet-all the jambalaya and chicken wings you want for $2-is satisfactory. 6778 Greenville. 373-7377. Daily 11 am-2 am. MC. V. AE.



FROGGY BOTTOMS. Ever wondered what a basement bar during prohibition must have looked like? This is it. A wonderful rhythm and blues club offering good barbecue and cold beer, the atmosphere here was definitely designed for good times in a very small setting. The Tonny Foy decor can best be described as early flea market. The walls are decorated with graffiti and scrap metal Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace- 603 Munger. 988-0581 Daily 11 am-2 am. Cover vanes. MC, V. AE



FUNNY BONE. The Funny Bone is to the comedy scene what McDonald’s is to hamburgers. It’s the largest chain of comedy clubs in the country. You may not recognize all the names that appear here, but that doesn’t mean they’re not funny Many of these comics are in the middle of long runs playing the ten clubs around the country. Tuesday nights you can catch the local improv group, “4 out of 5 doctors ” LBJ Freeway and Greenville Avenue in the High Point Village Shopping Center 437-2000. Shows: Wed, Thur, Sun 8:30: Fri 8:30 & 10:45; Sat 8. 10, & midnight; Tue9pm. MC. V.AE.



IMPROV. Everybody loves a clown, and of late some o1 the funniest folks in the show-biz circus have been splitting sides at the improv, Dallas’s newest comedy club A cousin of the famed LA. nightspot, the club takes its name from that gutsy, gonzo brand of comedy that reached its zenith with Robin Williams, wherein the comic plays without a net. relying as much on crowd response, retort, and insult as on any set repertoire. When it works, the payoff can be explosive, awe-inspiring. On our visit, funnyman Byron Allen {of TVs “Real People”) provided the yuks, feeding off the audience (with mixed results) and mining a rather dated vein of he-she humor. The opening act. juggler Daniel Rosen, broke every law of physics by |Uggling a “Swiss army cat” festooned with razor-sharp blades. 9810 N Central Expwy (in the Corner Shopping Center), 750-5868 Showtimes Sun-Thur 8:30 pm, Fri & Sat 8:30 & 10:45 MC. V, AE.



LEGENDS. The “legends’ here are the least interesting thing about the club-names of Texas sports figures like Bob Lilly. A.J. Foyt, and Babe Didrikson circle the bar in a mock-up of Texas Stadium’s Ring of Honor. More interesting are the dance floors: one is a regulation boxing ring (which will also feature karate and boxing exhibitions) The other is a miniature baseball diamond, which will no doubt spawn endless jokes about scoring and striking out. But if this successor to the old Café Dallas proves to be more than a Greenville mayfly, credit will go to the banks of television screens that alternate rock videos with vintage sports footage and live sporting events. It’s quite a novelty to see Magic Johnson and David Lee Roth airborne at once, or to watch Sandy Koufax firing a hummer past the head of Cyndi Lauper Brush her back, Sandman, brush her back. Old Town, 5500 Greenville. 987-0067. Mon-Fri 4 pm-2 am.Sat & Sun 11 30-2 am. MC, V.AE.

THE LOUNGE. Want to throw down a beer with young intelligentsia? Here’s what you do: first, dress chic, but don’t let it look elegantly chic. Casual chic is the style here {unless you’re in the New Wave crowd and you come m so everyone can have a look at what they’ve been told is “gloriously outrageous” fashion) Then, you’d better see one of those foreign movies playing next door at the Inwood Theatre so you’ll have something to talk about at the bar. And you’d better show a little poise. This is as close as Dallas gets to one of those sophisticated, high-lech upper West Side bars in New York where you wish you could eavesdrop on the conversation at every table. 5460 W Lovers Lane. 350-7834 Sun-Thur 5 pm-1 am. Fri & Sat 5 pm-2 am. AE. DC. CB.



MlSTRAL. The all-slick, high-tech dance club with the video screen larger than the side of a barn has gone completely “new music,” which is a nice way of saying that the music is not pop and we can’t always figure out if the song has a tune. But hey, we’re hip, and this crowd, especially early in the week, is truly hip (which means everyone wears androgynous black clothing with hair that is a cross between astronaut crewcut and Johnny Rotten). But you’ll still find your basic sprinkling of suburbanites and hotel guests who come in to gawk at the music videos and the twenty-year-olds who sing along to hits by such charming groups as The Fine Young Cannibals. Loews Anatole. 2201 Stemmons 760-9000. Tue 8 pm-3 am. Wed 8 pm-3 am. Thur 8 pm-2 am. Fri 8 pm-4 am. Sat8pm-4am Cover $5 Thur & Fri, $10 Sat. All credit cards.



PINOTS WINE BAR. You want wine by the glass, this is the place to get it-twenty-one varieties, ranging in price from $2.50 to $21 a glass. (II you’re trying to check out all twenty-one in one night, the hall-glass option might be advisable.) There is a menu, and it’s more than passable, if less than awe-inspiring, but wine, not food, is the lure here. Pinot’s setting is closer to plain than plush, which doesn’t seem to bother in the least the wine and restaurant business crowd that gravitates here 2926 N Henderson. 826-1949 Daily 2 pm-midnight. MC, V. AE



POOR DAVID’S PUB. In a city where live music clubs close quicker than real estate deals. Poor Davids has been hanging on for ten years. II has outlived slicker Greenville Avenue competition. It’s still the leader in blues artists, progressive-country singers, and touring folk singers 1924 Greenville. 821-9891. Mon-Sat 7 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. Cover varies No credit cards.



PROHIBITION ROOM. For far too long, this place has been regarded as the place in the basement next door to the StarckClub, but the Prohibition Room has developed an aura of its own. For one reason, it has begun to regularly draw some of the top local bands, like Robert Lee Kolb When you enter, you’ll think it’s another pool-and-shuffleboard bar, but when you run out of quarters, go to the back by the stage and listen to an evening’s worth of fine music 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-4407 Mon-Fri 4 pm-2 am. Sat 6 pm-2 am Sun 6:30 pm-2 am. MC. V. AE



SRO. What would the yuppie downtown business crowd do if they couldn’t have an after work drink at SRO (which should stand for Smashingly Resplendent-ly Ordinary)? Here, you may tap your manicured fingernails against the sleek bar and wonder who that handsome man is in the Armani suit or what kind of soul lurks beneath that Neiman-Marcus mannequin look a-like who is sipping wine by herself Everyone looks good m the track lighting of SRO That, of course, doesn’t help the food, and you’d better be ready to talk banking or real estate principles if you want to last here. 2900 McKinney. 748-5014. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Closed Sun MC. V. AE

STMTS BLUE NOTE. The best beer-drinking joint on Lower Greenville, this place has been discovered mostly by the post-SMU crowd. But you’ll still find your quota of eccentrics and plain old barflies who love the shuf-fleboard and pool tables and the surprisingly lively atmosphere 2908 Greenville 824-9653 Daily 11 am-2 am No credit cards.



STARCK CLUB. A lot of people have been wondering will Starck survive “the bust”? Will it survive the opening of more and more West End bars’’ True, it may not be quite as crowded and it’s only open Thursday through Sunday now, but we’re happy to report that the bar that taught us how to go to the bathroom together is still going strong. Which only goes to prove, there is life without ecstasy. 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 720-0130. Thur & Sun 9 pm-2 am; Fri & Sat 9 pm-4 am. Closed Mon-Wed. Cover $5 Thur & Sun after 9 pm; $10 Fri & Sat alter 9 pm. Ail credit cards.



STATE BAR. One sign of a bar’s success is the sighting of T-shirts emblazoned with its logo on the persons of its patrons and would-be patrons. By that standard, State Bar is nearly as successful as-and tar more hip than – the Hard Rock Cafe What has made State Bar’s martini-glass trademark omnipresent is simple, this is a bar for low-key Bohemians who want to have civilized conversation while gazing out picture windows facing the fairgrounds across the street The subdued lighting-there are rheostats at each booth-and moderate volume of the music make this possible. All in all. the effect is of a gallery opening without the pictures. 3611 Parry. 821 -9246. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat noon-2 am. Sun 6 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.



STRICTLY TABU. Tuesday through Sunday, this popular jazz club/restaurant answers the burning question: how many people can you put into a small, smoke-filled, rectangular room? If the jazz weren’t excellent here, they wouldn’t put the bands in the front window for all to see. Bring an appetite for Italian food if you’re going to arrive late. Chances are the restaurant upstairs is the only place you’ll find to sit. Lomo Alto at Lemmon Avenue.

528-5200 Tue-Thue 6 pm-2 am, Fri & Sat 6 pm-2 am. Sun 6 pm-2 am. Closed Mon MC, V. AE.



TiRILLI’S. Ah. yes, that great Lower Greenville tradition-sipping wine, eating Italian, and listening to that smooth, soft kind of jazz thai makes you slart snapping your fingers like Mel Torme. Wait a minute! This is on Lower Greenville? Goodness, class is popping up everywhere With the kind of black-and-white art deco decor that looks super expensive, a cozy bar area where you can meet someone who is (incredibly) not in real estate, and live jazz groups every night except Monday, you can actually drink something other than beer and not worry if others are making fun of you. Try Terilh’s signature dish- Italian-style nachos known as Italchos 2815 Greenville. 827-3993 Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2am. Sun 11 am-2am. MC. V. AE



VENETIAN ROOM. The old king of the Dallas showroom supper clubs still consistently brings in the most recognizable names in pop-]azz-comedy acts. The posh, elegant place, with its frescoes on the walls and tux-edoed waiters, might be intimidating to some, but the dress code has been loosened (you can get by without tie or fancy dress), the cover charge ranges from twelve to twenty dollars, and you dont have to buy the full-course dinner (which starts at twenty dollars) to come to the show Fairmont Hotel. Ross and Akard. 720-2020. Tue-Sun. two shows nightly at 9 pm and 11 pm. All credit cards.



VIDEO BAR. If you’ve watched MTV once during the lastyear, you owe it to yourself to go to the Video Bar. Theyhave found music videos that you never see anywhereelse-even some absolutely weird stuff that is allfraught with significant meaning and whatnot. Videosfrom local artists are also premiered here If you consider yourself part of the new scene – and if you promisenot to wear anything resembling penny loafers-this isyour Deep Ellum kind of place. All the funky regularsfrom the old ’On the Air’ bar have already found theirspots, so be prepared to wait in line. 2812 Elm.939-9113. Daily 8 pm-2 am. MC. V. AE.