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EATING AROUND SAN SIMEON’S PEERLESS PEDIGREE

Also Actuelle, Copeland’s, and Everyday Gourmet
By Liz Logan |

San Simeon



★★★★★ I’m not saying I was excited about the opening of San Simeon or anything, but I did eat there three days running during its first week of operation. And for a restaurant to have its act as together as San Simeon did during week one is impressive in the extreme.

The restaurant, incidentally, has nothing to do with William Randolph Hearst’s castle of the same name in California, but it does have an excellent pedigree. Patrick Colombo, who used to be food and beverage director at the Mansion, and his brother, Robert Colombo, are running the place. Richard Chamberlain, the young chef who used to be at Ratcliffe’s. is heading up the kitchen; Javier Gomez, who used to be the maitre d’ at Calluaud, greets guests, and Paul Draper, who decorated the Crescent Club, did the interior, which is subtly, weirdly wonderful, with a postmodern Egyptian effect. (Keep your eye on the lighting; it changes colors over the course of a meal.)

As for the food, which is supposed to be the point of restaurants but frequently isn’t, it resembles that served at the Mansion and Routh Street Cafe in that it’s imaginative and uses what is fresh and in season. But San Simeon’s menu is no copycat. There are some original- and terrific-things on this menu that can’t be found anywhere else in town.

A chowder of corn, wild rice, and duck sausage, for instance, has to be one of the best soups ever served in this city. At lunch, sizzling ginger pork with warm papaya vinaigrette and chilled bow-tie pasta and prosciutto with sage walnut pesto were very good; the awkwardly named Romano-crusted veal with angel-hair pasta and tomato sauce was great.

At dinner, grilled baby chicken with five-grain rice cake and smoked garlic tarragon sauce and roast breast of Canadian pheasant with Fall Creek Riesling pear sauce approached greatness, even if they didn’t quite get there.

This has been a thin year for serious restaurant-goers in search of the new and serious, but with the advent of San Simeon and Baby Routh, which will be reviewed next month, 1986 has redeemed itself. 2515 McKinney at Fairmount in Chateau Plaza. 871-7373. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30- 2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Expensive.



Actuelle



★★ Adolphus and Westin Hotel alumni Victor Gielisse and Clive O’Donoghue have hung out their own shingle with Actuelle. Actuelle opened up at about the same time as San Simeon, but unlike San Simeon, Actuelle doesn’t seem to be ready for prime time. The food, which press releases described as “New American style.” seemed to me to be old French style-which is to say goopy dishes afloat in seas of sauces, albeit made with nouveile ingredients.

Although none of it inspired much enthusiasm, everything from the changing menu on my visits was more than edible. Correction-scorched tortilla soup with smoked duck and serrano chilies was barely edible, and shouldn’t give the Mansion, whose version reigns supreme, anything to worry about. Beef tenderloin with creole mustard sauce and sirloin glazed with honey, mustard, and soy were both overwhelmed by their over-emphatic sauces.

On the seafood front, grilled swordfish with tamarillo relish was firm and fresh-tasting, while lemon sole with tomato basil butter was distressingly mushy. An appetizer of tortellini with wild mushrooms, pancet-ta, basil, and sun-dried tomato would have been quite nice had it not been drowning in sauce. For dessert, a thin apple tart like that served at Blom’s was lovely, and far more interesting than a mousse-like raspberry flummery and a chocolate-pecan charlotte.

Traditionally, expensive restaurants with marginal food compensate for the food with service and setting. Actuelle’s service on my visits was excellent, but the setting, while attractive, somehow doesn’t feel comfortable or intimate. The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 855-0440. Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Expensive.



Copeland’s



★★★ Cajun is one culinary trend that looks like it’s here to stay, and that’s good news, at least if Dallas continues to have Cajun restaurants of the quality of Cafe Margaux on the boutique end of the scale and now Copeland’s on the mass-market end. Although Copeland’s architecture and decor are par for the course for Addison, which is to say they inspire something between a shrug and a wince (depending on how easily you bruise aesthetically), the food is remarkably good for a restaurant this big (it seats 220).

Over the course of several visits, I quite liked oysters en brochette, found more than passable the shrimp Caribe fried in coconut beer batter, shrimp ducky, and grilled chicken breast with spinach, hot bacon dressing, and blue cheese, and wouldn’t order stuffed soft-shell crab again. The chocolate cookie ice cream, on the other hand, is something I’ve wanted to order almost daily since tasting it. 5353 Belt Line. 661-1883. Mon-Thur 11-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. All credit cards. Moderate.



Everyday Gourmet

★★★★ Gourmet-to-go has been with us in Dallas for some time, but Everyday Gourmet is an answered prayer, at least if you’re busy, hungry, and live in or near the Park Cities. The food is homey in the best sense, but never tastes amateurish. The fare changes, but peerless meat loaf and chicken salad are two standards. The prices for this simple perfection are reasonable. There’s only one catch, and it’s an old complaint in these pages; we workaholics need take-out places that are open later in the evening and on Sundays, the better to prepare for the onslaught of the coming week. 4446 Lovers Lane. 373-0325. Mon-Fri 7:30 am-7 pm, Sat 8 am-5:30 pm. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



RECOMMENDED RESTAUHANTS



Restaurants are rated with stars: ★(tair). ★★(good), ★★★(very good),★★★★excellent), ★★★★★(su-perlative)-for food quality alone. Service and atmosphere are commented on in reviews, but are not considered for star ratings.

Credit cards are AE/Amencan Express. MC/Master-Card. V/Visa. DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” means that all five are accepted.

Restaurant visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by D Inclusion in this listing has nothing to do with paid advertising.

Please do not phone; send comments and recommendations to Liz Logan. D Magazine. 3988 N Central Ex-pwy. Suite 1200. Dallas. Texas 75204.



AMERICAN



D REVISITS

ARTHUR’S ★★★★ Following hot young chefs as they job-hop keeps foodies plenty busy these days. One noteworthy change of employment is that of Jerry House from Cily Cafe to Arthur’s. For the benefit of newcomers to Dallas, it should be explained that while Arthur’s hasn’t been around forever, it is a hoary old-timer on the local restaurant scene, and in recent years, the food tasted pretty solidly out of it Since the advent of House, though. Arthur’s menu has moved into a re-wardingly contem porary mode. Although the new fare is expensive, a dinner of steamed lobster and roast pheasant with a pear, honey, and thyme sauce was well worth the price. 8350 N Central Expwy in Camp* bell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 6-10:30. All credit cards. Very expensive.



BEAU NASH ★★★★ As the months have gone by, Beau Nash has come into its own identity, and its virtues seem more and more apparent. For one thing, it keeps late hours – at least by Dallas standards- and does so every night. For another, it’s a lively, entertaining hangout. And last but not least, the menu has been astutely adjusted, although not completely overhauled. Happily, the smoked salmon pizza-the perfect partner to champagne- and the Sonoma baby iamb with pesto sauce survived. Crescent Court Hotel. 400 Cres-cent Court. Maple at McKmney 871-3240. Breakfast daily 6-10:30. Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-3. dinner daily 6 pm-1 am; Sun brunch 11:30-3 All credit cards. Expensive.



BLOWS ★★★★★ Last time around at Blom’s. the service was as flawless as ever, and the food – always quite good in the past-was of five-star quality The five-course, fixed-price ($38) “Taste of Blom’s” menu of the day was especially impressive: hill country venison with Cornice pear and Wisconsin blue cheese; cream of cauliflower soup; Gulf rock shrimp stir-fried with snow peas, ginger, and truffles; an assortment of sorbets; fillet of lamb in pastry with tomato satsa and goat cheese; and a summer pudding with a strawberry sauce. Westin Hotel. Galleria. 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Mon-Tnur 6:30-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required. Alt credit cards. Expensive.

ClTYCAFE ★★★★★ City Cafe’s innovative yet reassuringly homey menu (which changes every Wednesday) continues to be one of the best in town in terms of qualily-to-price raiio. A recent dinner was nearly flawless: the mixed garden salad; jambalaya wtih ham, oysters, shrimp, and andouilie sausage; chocolate quiche with shortbread crust; and creme brulee with a coconut cookie crust were all they should have been. Only the chile-rubbed black angus strip was a letdown: the chile flavor wasn’t in evidence, and the beef was disappointingly dry-tasting. 5757 W Lovers Lane Oust west of Dallas N Tollway). 351-2233. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-30-2-30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE Moderate.



DAKOTA’S ★★★★ Dakota’s new lunch and dinner menus, modified by new chef Lisa Smith, include more salads and light dishes than did their predecessors. However, the emphasis is stilt on things Southwestern and mesquite-golled. To judge from two exemplary items from the dinner menu -grilled lamb chops stuffed with herbed Texas goat cheese with Zinfandel sauce and grilled beef tenderloin fillet with mushroom caps-this is all to the good Also unchanged, of course, is the slick, heavy-on-the-macble decor. 600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri& Sat 5-11:30, Sun brunch 11-2 30. All credit cards. Lunch moderate, dinner expensive.



The Mansion on Turtu Creek ★★★★★ The Mansion has no competition in its melding of Dallass historic past and gastronomic future. In the golden glow of the restored, circa 1925 Shepard King mansion. Dean Fearing turns out cutting-edge New American Cuisine with a Southwestern accent Current standouts: country-fried Texas quail with peanut pasta and creamy garlic sauce; Louisiana crab cakes with a sauce of smoked chilies, lobster, and blood orange; and grilled swordfish with Thai noodles and mango cucumber, melon, and lime sauce 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd 526-2121 Main dining room-jackets and ties required. Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30; brunch Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2.30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11; supper Mon-Thur 1030 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast Mon-Fri 7-11 30, Sat & Sun 7 am-1 pm; tea Mon-Fri 2-5 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.



901: An American Restaurant ★★★★ service may be overly intrusive and familiar for my taste, but the food is nearly flawless here. Crab cakes were on the soupy side, but an appetizer of pan-fried medallions of rabbit with a spicy tomato sauce was the best treatment of bunny I’ve ever tasted. Prime rib was very nice indeed, but it was surpassed by the pasta of the day -linguine with shrimp and veal in a tomato sauce. And for dessert, although there are technically other choices, the only choice, at least as far as I’m concerned, is the Key lime pie. Forget all the sleazy, green-hued imitators of your past. This is the real thing. InterFirst Piaza. 901 Main. 747-9010. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30 dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. Moderate.



ROUTH StREET CAFE ★★★★★ Routh Street Cafe’s formula for national gastronomic fame: Stephan Pyles’s New Southwestern Cuisine; a sleek. Tonny Foy-designed setting; and snappy, congenial service. The five-course, fixed-price menu ($42. with surcharges for certain items) is printed daily, but certain items- such as cornmeal catfish with smoked pepper/min! marigold sauce, lobster enchilada with red pepper crème fralche, lamb with pecan and garlic sauce, berry buckle with cinnamon ice cream, and apple-walnut spice cake- have become near-Fixtures When food-obsessed travelers come to town, this is the reservation they want. This means prime-time reservations should be made well in advance. 3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations All credit cards. Expensive.



WEST END OASIS ★★★★ The new menu at West End Oasis retains such pick hits from its predecessor as the fish soup with fresh jalapeno. sweet potatoes, and coconut milk, and the red snapper rolled in cracked peppercorns and roasted in corn husks, and it adds startlingly original choices like pasta Oasis (homemade Imguine tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, capers, and New Mexico chilies) and gulf shrimp stir-fried in sesame oil with mounds of diced green and red onions. This is still the best-looking restaurant in town, with its granite waterfall, contemporary Southwestern art, and handsome, woody setting in the restored Texas Moline Building 302 N Market (entrance on Pacific) 698-9775. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11 Closed Sun All credit cards. Very expensive.



BAKERIES



LA MADELEINE ★★★ These are trying times, and from time to time one needs a judicious combination of caffeine and carbohydrates to make it through the afternoon La Madeleine’s strong coffee and raspberry beignets (or. alternatively, almond croissants) do the job for me. There are also more wholesome alternatives along the lines of soups, salads, and sandwiches- as well as the top-quality breads that are the true raison d’etre of the place The rustic setting at both locations is pleasant, and the service seems noticeably less surly and disorganized than in years past. 3072 Mockingbird. 696-6960;3906 Lemmon. 521-0182. Daily 7 am-9 pm. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



BARBECUE



SONNY BRYAN’S ★★★★ Accompanied by the last two Sonny Bryan’s virgins in town, I headed for Sonny’s on a cool day – pointing out that the woodsmoke and patrons eating from the hoods of their vehicles are essential elements of the experience Reviewing ethics compelled us to order different things, but the wisdom o1 sticking to the awe-inspiring sliced beef sandwich was reconfirmed by the scorched ribs, rubbery sliced ham, and ho-hum beans. However, that sandwich combined with their peerless barbecue sauce is sufficient to earn Sonny’s its stars. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fn 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted Inexpensive



BURGERS



SNUFFER’S ★★★ Snuffer’s is nearly always packed with patrons who either go to SMU or look as if they ought to, but this should not be held against it The menu is small and well prepared, with emphasis on salads, nachos, burgers, and the like. The immense basket of fries is a trademark I wouldn’t have believed it was possible to finish an order of the plain fries, much less those with cheese, but I have witnessed the feat. 3526 Greenville. 826-6850. Mon-Sat 11 am-2am. Sun 11:30 am-2am. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



CAJUN



ARCADIA BAA ★★★★ First things first: the Arcadia Bar has nothing to do with the Arcadia Theater, which is across the street The Arcadia Bar is a no-frills hangout (The music is mostly recorded, though there is sometimes a pianist.) The menu is small, mostly Cajun. and all deftly executed. From a perky green salad to perfect fried oysters to New Orleans-quality dirty rice, the food is first-rate 2114 Greenville Ave 821-1300 Daily 5 pm-2 am MC. V, AE Inexpensive



CaFE,MargAUX ★★★★★ The blackened-everythmg brigade- those trend-surfing restaurateurs who don’t know their elbows from their étouffèes-have made many local diners deeply suspicious of all Cajun food served outside a fifty-mite radius of New Orleans. Happily, Cafe Margaux is another matter altogether The food here measures up to Louisiana’s finest; house-made foils, green salad, crawfish étoutffèe, oysters Bienville. trout with crab-meat stuffing, and bread pudding were all flawless Good news for regulars accustomed to waiting in line: expansion has brought the number of tables to twenty, and a selection of American wine is now available 4424 Lovers Lane 739-0886-Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11 MC, V, AS. Moderate.



CHINESE



BEST A ROUND ★★★ Here at D, our fun-loving staff members frequently find themselves hard at work-and hungry- at odd hours. Lately, we’ve been ordering in from Best A Round, which has the virtues of low prices, quick delivery, and food that may be short on finesse but is reliably tasty. Best A Round has a couple of counters- and a television that tends to be tuned to MTV – for customers who want to eat in. but most either pick up or have their fodder delivered. 3607-A Greenville. 827-3631 Mon-Thur 2:30-2 30, Fri 2:30 pm-4 am. Sal noon-4 am, Sun noon-2:30 am. No credit cards Inexpensive.



CRYSTAL PaGODa ★★★★ One of the oddest facts of dining in Dallas is that although there are more Chinese restaurants around than any other kind, we don’t have a single one that approaches the greatness of, say, New York’s Siu Lam Kung Crystal Pagoda doesn’t match that standard, but it’s as good as Chinese food gets in Dallas – which is quite good. The shredded beef Szechwan-style and the moo shu pork are two especially good choices here. The service and setting are both extremely pleasant. 4516 McKinney. 526-3355. MonThur 11:30 am-W:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE. Moderate.



DYNASTY ★★★★ This relatively formal Chinese restaurant, despite its unlikely location adjacent to a motel, is among the best in the area-admittedly, a backhanded compliment given Dallas’s dearth of truly great Chinese food. On a recent visit, decent shrimp rolls and spring rolls were followed by indecently good rainbow chicken (julienned chicken, snow peas, red pepper, and Mung bean sprouts) and the equally praiseworthy, if oddly named, stiver gourd savoury (shrimp, green peppers, straw mushrooms, and water chestnuts). Orange beef was too tally, as it tends to be in Chinese restaurants all over town. Garden inn, 4101 Beit Line, Addison 385-7888. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30pm. Fri & Sat 11 30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate



JASMINE ★★★ Jasmine’s setting sets it apart from standard-issue Chinese restaurants It’s plush to the point of featuring a white baby grand piano. For reasons unknown, the menu featured some fractured French, but its offerings don’t suffer as a result. Shrimp rolls arrived encased in black seaweed wrappers- not bad, mind you, but still, the stuff did take some getting used to Happily, however, there were no untoward surprises involved in the lop-notch treatments of moo shu pork and beef Mimosa (sautéed in an orange-flavored red pepper sauce). 4002 Belt Line 991-6867. lunch Mon-Fri 11-2 30, dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11:30. Sat 11:30-11:30, Sun 11:30-10. All credit cards Moderate.



SZECHWAN PAVILION ★★★ With its sophisticated peach and gray color scheme. Szechwan Pavilion is an aesthetic knockout. At its best, the food very nearly lives up to the setting The spring rolls- crisp wonton wrappers punctuated by shrimp, sprouts, and carrot shreds-are musts to order After that, kung pao shrimp with red pepper and peanuts might be in order. Two dishes to avoid, dry, nearly tasteless hot spicy lobster sautéed with ginger in chili sauce, and chicken chow mem with canned, as opposed to fresh, mushrooms Prices are a bit higher here than at most local Chinese restaurants, but one can see, in such touches as the exotic lilies on the tables, where the surcharge is going. Preston Center, 8409 Preston, Suite 132 at Northwest Highway 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri 11:11, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC. V. AE Moderate to expensive.



D REVISITS

TONG’S HOUSE ★★ Although the dan-dan noodles with sesame-peanut sauce were still some of the best (and some of the only) to be found in town, the rest of a recent dinner at Tong’s was a bummer. Wonton soup was inedibly soggy, moo goo gai pan included canned mushrooms, and orange beef Szechwan-style was too chewy for comfort All the same, there was a halt-hour wait lor a table Still. Tongs is worth a trip lor true Chinese food tans, if only (or the opportunity to order such frighteningly authentic dishes as pig’s stomach with bean soup, cold cattle stomach, and beet tendons in hot sauce. 1910 Promenade Center, Richardson 231 -8858 Mon-Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Sun 11 am-9 pm A!) credit cards. Moderate.



Uncle Trsa Hunan Yuan ★★★★ uncle Tars is the highestod high-end Chinese options in town. For prices consistently higher than any other Chinese restaurant in town, the customer gets such off-the-beaten-path dishes as sautéed sliced pheasant, frog’s legs with gingko nuts, and sliced duck with young ginger roots The quality of ingredients is very high, although the level of saltiness continues to be problematic. Galleria. 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370. 934 9998 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fn&Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. Jackets required for dinner AH credit cards. Expensive.



DELI



KUBY’S ★★ After recovering from the shock of seeing the elegant spareness of Ceret (the restaurant that previously occupied the space) turned into a Bavarian bad dream. I rallied to en|oy Wiener schnitzel and potato salad at Kuby’s new location downtown in the Brewery. There are innumerable sandwich and sausage options, but whatever else you order, potato pancakes and apple strudel are in order as accompaniments. To |udge from the lunchtime crowds, the new Kuby’s promises to join the old one (which has been around since 1961) as a local institution. 703 McKinney in the Brewery 954-0004 Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm. Fri&Sat 11 am-10:30pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.

FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



CAFEROYAL★★★★ Romance may be invaluable, but a romantic dinner shouldn’t cost more than a used car Cafe Royal’s $34.50 fixed-price dinner, which changes daily, is reasonably priced and, thanks to the lovely setting and skillful service, unreasonably romantic The run-down on one night’s uniformly well-prepared options, an appetizer of a salad with quail breast or an artichoke bottom with lobster ragout and caviar butter sauce; a green salad or red-wine sorbet; an entree of sliced loin of lamb with wild mushrooms and a shallot and sage sauce or tillel ot John Dory with angel-hair pasta and lemon thyme sauce, and a choice of dessert. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch Mon-Fn 11:30-2;dinnerMon-Thur6.30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 Closed Sun. Jackets ana ties required. All credit cards Expensive



CHEZGeraRD ★★★ Now that Calluaud has laid down its life to become a parking lot for the Hard Rock Cafe, it’s a sate be! that former Calluaud regulars will be joining the already healthy crowds at Chez Gerard (which is also a Guy and Martine Calluaud operation) The highlights of my most recent dinner checkup visit were topflight treatments of sauted lamb chop with parsley and garlic and floating island (poached meringue floating atop vanilla custard). Shrimp rémoulade, cassoulet {a stew of white beans and sausage that Francophiles adore and the less reverent refer to as the Gallic version of beans and weenies), and crème caramel were less distinguished but still well within Chez Gerard’s range ot dependable quality. 4444 McKmney. 522-6865 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Mon- Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards Moderate to expensive



The French Room ★★★★ with its cherubs, vaulted ceiling, and Irompe l’oei! garden, the rosy-hued French Room is far and away the most baroque-looking restaurant in Dallas In the five years since its opening, it has had its culinary ups and downs; happily, however, a recent visit suggested that it is in an up cycle From salads (green bean and green salad with goat cheese croutons) to entrees (salmon and rack of lamb) to dessert (apple tart), the food was all that one could ask for What’s more, the sornmeher is both congenial and well-informed; he is as happy to advise customers on a single glass of wine as a rare bottle. Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200 Mon-Sat 6 10 Jackets and ties required All credit cards Expensive.



THE GRAPE ★★★★★ The Grape’s setting-dark as a candlelit dungeon, with red-checked tablecloths and touches of vinous kitsch – makes it an ideal hangout for Lower Greenville’s resident Bohemian yuppies The Grape paraphernalia displayed near the door- including T-shirts and a cookbook-suggests that what we have here is not so much a restaurant as a way of life. Although the Grape still serves the cheese and pate offerings that were its specialty when it opened in 1972. pasta and fish specials are the ticket these days. 2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.



D REVISITS

THREE VIKINGS ★★★ Three Vikings, which had been a fixture on Lower Greenville, packed up and disappeared some months back Now it has resurfaced in the tiny space previously occupied by Da Piccolo and Red Moon Cafe on Cole Avenue The look of the place is very light, with lots of pale blue and bleached pine There’s nothing light about the food, though-which is good or bad, depending on how you feel about Scandinavian-influenced Continental food For my part. I am extremely fond of the Swedish meatballs, moderately fond of the Finnish shrimp chowder, and not fond at all of the heavy-on-the-béarnaise veal Oscar. 4537 Cole. 559-0987. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Tue-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. MC. V AE. Moderate.



L’EnTRECOTe ★★★★ After a long sliding spell, L’Entre-cote has, as the French say. pulled up Us socks. Thanks to the efforts of chef Michel Platz, the Loews Anatole’s French restaurant is once again one of the best in the city. Watercress and endive salad with pink grapefruit was an exceptionally refreshing appetizer. Gratin of crawfish tails with ginger was light and satisfying, and lorn of iamb wilh rosemary and shallot coulis was a must for lamb lans. Finally, dessert-banana beignets with coconut mousse-was a killer. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy 748-1200. Daily 6-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.



MADAME CHANG ★★★★ This product of gastronomic cross-pollination – specifically, of French and Chinese cuisine- is an attractive, If very formal-feeling, place. Standouts on the menu are the sautéed breast of chicken with pine nuls. red peppers, snow peas, and ginger; grilled lamb chops with creamy mint sauce; and salmon steak and prawns with tomato-shrimp cream sauce. The Crescent, 2200 Cedar Springs. 871 -3838. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11; bar open daily 11 am-1 am. All credit cards Expensive.



THE RlVIERA ★★★★★ I have attended Grateful Dead concerts that were quieter than the Riviera on a Saturday night, but minor hearing loss is a small price to pay (or first-fate food in a charming setting. A green salad was nicely set off by sherry vinaigrette. and came with a delectable goal cheese crouton. Sun-dried tomato and smoked bell pepper soup was satisfying, if heavy on the bacon. Norwegian salmon and sea scallops steamed wrth white wine and served with a light rosemary sauce was one of the best treatments of salmon I’ve eve’ tasted. And duck breast with intensely flavored lavender and honey sauce was worthwhile, too For dessert the creditable, very buttery-lasting Grand Marnier creme brulée was outshone by the ethereally light apple tart with almond cream and caramel sauce. This is one for the Dessert Hall of Fame. 7709 inwood. 351-0094. Sun-Thur 6:30 pm-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6:30pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPE



CAFE KASHTAN ★★★ A recent dinner visit here was relatively disappointing, but that was mostly because my party was collectively starving and service was excruciatingly slow. However, it also didn’t help that kulebiaka, that utterly satisfymg melange of chicken, nice. and mushrooms baked in a pastry shell-wasn’t on the dinner menu Still, the salanka, an intensely flavored broth with bits of beef, sausage, and vegetables accompanied by pirozki. a meat-filled roll, the chicken Kiev, the veal Soblianka with mushroom sauce, and the almond cake with raspberry sauce were appeasmgly excellent. 5365 Spring Valley Rd at Mont-tort. 991-9550 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. dinner Tue-Thur 5-10, Fn& Sal 5-11. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



ROLFS ★★★ Potato pancakes are not easy to come by in Dallas. But come the dead of winter, nothing soothes the soul on a raw. sub-Arctic day like an order of potato pancakes with applesauce and sour cream. If only, then, for the supremely comforting potato pancakes. Rolfs would earn my loyalty Happily, there are other things to recommend Rolf’s: the delicate Wiener schnitzel and the decidedly indelicate roasted pork shank, which is a major hunk o’ meat. Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Expensive.



GOURMET CARRYQUT



MlRABELLE ★★★ For those of us who never confuse the joy of eating with the joy of cooking, haute takeout establishments like Mirabelle are a blessing. They allow us to stay home and eat well without resorting to whisk and wooden spoon. Thanks to Mirabelle. I have spent some great evenings enjoying domesticity and “St. Elsewhere.” most recently with mushroom and spinach soup (too few mushrooms, entirely too much spinach), spinach and feta cheese pie (no complaints), and raspberry-peach cobbler (fit for the gods) So it goes at Mirabelle: appetizers and main courses are of uneven quality and frequently suffer from having lingered too long in the refrigeration case, but desserts-especially the inventive variely of cookies – are a can’t-lose proposition Like much that one finds in Highland Park. Mirabeile is pretty and overpriced. Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 73-74. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm, Mon 10:30 am-6 pm. MC. V. AE: personal checks accepted. Expensive.



TOMASO’S ★★★ Tomasso’s makes it possible for the overtaxed gastronome to enjoy the illusion of cooking at home while in fact eating what is fast food, albeit fast food that doesn’t taste unduly frenetic. The micro-wavable rotolo. a pasta roll filled wild ricotta, moz zarella, and spinach. is an especially good choice for evenings when even boiling water is beyond one’s capabilities The only problem with the rest of Tomasso’s offerings is the overabundance of choice Do you want egg. spinach tomato, whole wheat, or parsley and garlic pasta? Do you want it cut as angel hair, tagliolini, spaghetti, linguiette, taglialelle, or fettuc-cine? And then there is the sauce question-do you want tomato and fresh basil, amatriciaina, meat, cream and mushroom, walnut, or pesto? You can hardly go wrong, unless you opt for the dull lasagna 3018 Mockingbird at Central, 987-4415; 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158 at Monttort, 991 -4040 Mon-Fri 11 am-7pm, Sat 10 am-6 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. Inexpensive.



INDIAN

AKBAR ★★★★ Although it’s the newest Indian restau-rant in town, old India hands will want to thoroughly explore the byways of Akbar’s menus. That’s plural -there are two, the regular one and the snack bar menu. Although the regular menu is praiseworthy, it is Akbar’s snack bar that conclusively sets it apart from its peers Snack-bar highlights include aloo tikki, grilled potato cutlets with curried chickpeas; samosa, lender litlle turnovers stuffed with herbed potatoes and peas; and maiai kofta, curry, cheese, and vegetable dumplings in a cream and almond sauce, served with rice 5115 Promenade Center at Coit & Belt Line roads. 2350260 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm, dinner Sun- Thur5 3Q-1Q, Fri& Sat 5:30-10:30. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.



INDIA PALACE ★★★ I’ve given up on keeping track of the shifting, intricate lineage of who owns which local Indian restaurants, but it doesn’t matter. because they’re all quite good at the moment. India Palace is no exception to this general ru!e of excellence Whether you order a la carte or opt for the weekend buffet brunch, you’ll be happy with the food here. India Palace’s exceptionally thoughtful service is a bonus. 13360 Preston. 392-0190. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30 pm-10 pm, Fri &Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm All credit cards. Moderate.



Kebab’N’ KURRY ★★★ a visit to the walnut hill K ’n’ K to check out the $7.95 weekend brunch was rewarding. Although a few items (mushy strawberry and banana fruit salad, fishy fish curry) didn’t send me, plenty of choices did. including succulent tandoori chicken; fragrant kashmiri pillau (rice with peas, currants, almonds, and cashews); savory palak panir (spinach cooked with homemade cheese); flavorful lamb kofta (meatballs in a mild curry sauce); and tender naan (flat bread). Dessert was a lesson in the outer limits of sweetness – if there is anything on the planet sweeler than gulab jamun (pastry balls in cardamom-flavored syrup), I hope never to taste it. The dark side service tends to be out of it. and the setting verges on the depressing, thanks to the oppressive shade of gray the walls are painted. 2620 Walnut Hill Ln. 350-6466. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30- W, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. brunch Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30- MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate



ITALIAN



ALESSIO’S ★★★★ lf you’re not happy with your meal at Alessio’s, it will only be because you have failed to apprise the ever-watchful Alessio Franceschetti of any problems. Happily, on a recent visit, there were no problems to report. Crab cannelloni, an appetizer of the day, was estimable enough to warrant on-the-menu status. Shrimp provencale, with mushrooms and tomatoes, was quite good, if not as seductive. The subtly dressed romaine lettuce salad that accompanied entrees was simple perfection. Linguine with shrimp and scallops in a delicately spicy tomato sauce was agreeable, though not as meritorious as the perfectly breaded veal parmigiana accompanied by buttered, parslied mostaccioli. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Sun & Mon 6-10 pm MC. V.AE. Moderate to expensive.



ClAO ★★ New Wave pizza may be the featured attraction at Ciao. ana they are well and good, but the smart money is on the calzone, a sort of pizza turnover filled wilh fresh riccotta, Italian sausage, and herbs. One of these and a perfectly simple green salad, and you wont be in the market for dessert 3921-B Cedar Springs- 521-0110. Mon-Sat 11.30am midnight. Sun 3 pm-midnight. MC. V, AE, Inexpensive.



MOMO’S ★★★ Momo’s is small, plain, and disorganized – none of which matters to devotees of its pastas and pizzas At lunch, mostly pizzas- including a wonderfully forceful-lasting one of tomato, mozzareila. and gorgonzola – are available. At dinner, the menu is more extensive (Pasta, such aslortelli di spmaci. is a much better idea than veal, which can be daunttngly chewy.) You can have any wine you want at Momo’s as long as you bring it yourself, 9191 Forest Lane. 234-6800. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 pm; dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm, Sun 5 30-9:pm. MC, V. Moderate.



NEMT’S ITALIAN ★★★ The food is good enough here, but it isn’t great, and it certainly doesn’t come cheap. What, then, accounts lor the two-hour waits on weekends? suspect it’s that ol’ debbil ambience. Nero’s is made to order tor dates or get-reacquainted-with-your-spouse sessions, at least if your date or spouse is a stylish, ironic character (Diana Vreeland and Catholic-school veterans should feel particularly at home here because of the red walls and the Michael the Archangel lamps.) There is an extensive menu of pasta, veal, and seafood, but the two things to concentrate on are the Italian wine-the selection is great, and the staft well informed – and the pizza, which comes in both traditional and New Wave varieties. 2104 Greenville. 826-6376. Mon-Thur 6-11 pm. Fri & Sal 6 pm-midnignt Closed Sun MC, V. AE. Moderate.



311 LOMBARDI’S ★★★★★ What is the Italian translation of “good karma7 Our waiter didn’t know, but 311 Lombar-di’s has achieved it. Here, surrounded by the glow created by creamy apricot walls, happy hordes of downtown workers gel what may well be the best Italian food in town at reasonable prices. No pasta was visible in the pasta and bean soup, but it was a hearty, herb-enlivened delight anyway. A pizza with leeks, pancetta, goal cheese, and mushrooms could have held its own against New York’s best The next stop on the menu was good enough to be required eating for potato-philes: potato gnocchi with two sauces (tomato and irresistible gorgonzofa) A tender thin veal cutlet topped with arugula and diced tomatoes was simply immense. Dessert of raspberry ice cream and respectable espresso rounded off a repast that was pure pleasure from start to finish. 311 Market. 747-0322. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat 5 pm-1 am. Sun 5-11 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



JAPANESE/KOREAN



D REVISITS



Mr. SUSHI ★★★★ It’s all raw fish to me. but a number of my friends are dedicated seekers of sushi, and the most senous of them swears by Mr. Sushi. My friend was moved by the “sushi B” dinner-tuna, white meat fish, yellowtail, jumbo clam, shrimp, salmon, smelt egg, salmon egg, cooked egg. and tuna roll – and I was appeased by the sautéed soft shell crab and perfect shrimp tempura. The Quorum. 4860 Bell Line, Ad-dison.385-0168. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:30-10. All credit cards. Moderate.



SUSHI On McKiNNEY ★★★ The sushi is a better bet than the cooked things at this self-styled “friendly postmodern sushi bar” The atmosphere is lively to the point of freneticism, which is either a refreshing or a disturbing change from the traditionally quiet, subdued atmos-phere of local Japanese restaurants. 4500 McKinney. 5210969. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri, & Sat 5:30-11 All credit cards. Moderate.



LUNCH



CITY MARKET ★★★★ City Market has acquired a loyal following of downtown habitues hungry for fresh, imaginative soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts. However, in the past the pleasures of this light, airy, upscale cafeteria were unpredictable. If, for instance, you loved the marigold mint chicken salad, it might be weeks before you and it were on the premises on the same day. Now, with the advent of menus printed every week. City Market regulars can predict with assurance when it will be possible to eat pasta salad , with Indonesian peanut sauce or marinated beef salad with multicolored bell peppers Whatever else you get, the light, souffle-like apricot-raisin bread pudding should not be missed 200 LTV Center. 2001 Boss at Harwood. 979-2696 Mon-Fri 7:30am-4 30pm. MC. V. Inexpensive.



PACIFIC EXPRESS ★★★★ Pacific Express, a chic eighty-eight-seat cafeteria, makes the hasty downtown lunch into an art form. I happen to be obsessed with the tuna salad with toasted almonds, grapes, and blue cheese in tarragon mayonnaise, but the smoked chicken salad with toasted walnuts and shallot vermouth mayonnaise has its devotees, too. Other choices include pasta salad, wild rice salad, and several sandwiches. Pacific Place Bldg. 1910 EIm, Suite 103 969-7447. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards, personal checks accepted Inexpensive.



THEO’S DlNER ★★★ Although the lyrics don’t specify Theo’s by name,l suspect that Theo’s grilled ham and cheese sandwich is what Janet Jackson has in mind when she makes musical reference to nasty food in “Nasty Boys.” With its garlic-buttered Texas toast, this is the ultimate grilled-cheese thrill. As for the fries, some people think they’re the best in Dallas Others disagree: they think they’re the best on the planet Then there is the ambience, which could hardly be more intimate-there are just nine seats around the counter. One more attraction: the proprietor’s plot summaries of -Ail My Children.” 111 S Hall St. 741-9130. Mon-Fri 7 am-4 pm.Sat 8 am-3 am No credit cards, inexpensive.



MEXICAN



CANTINA LAREDO ★★★★★ A belief shared by many Mexican food enthusiasts hereabouts is that great Mex can only be found in grungy, time-worn establishments located in the vicinity of Mapie Avenue. However, holding to this belief would mean missing out on Can-tina Laredo, which is situated in a clean, new building in-yes-Addison. Standard Tex-Mex combinations are available here, and they’re quite good, but the com-ida casera- home-style food-is where the smart money is Standouts include the tacos al pastor filled with marinated pork, cabrito (baby goat to you, gringo), mesquite-grilled shrimp with garlic butter, and red snapper with lime butter. 4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.



D REVISITS

GENARO’S ★★★ With its tropical art-deco look. Genaro’s is the prettiest place in town for margarita consumption. Happily, for the most part, the food matches the margaritas Enchiladas Genaro, filled with snapper and crab meat, were extremely gratifying. And even if chicken with |alapeno and tomatillo cream sauce topped with pumpkin seeds arrived sans pumpkin seeds, the accompanying black beans and pea-studded rice were pleasing, anyway. And the coconut ice cream was lushly satisfying, as always 5815 Live Oak at Skillman 827-9590. Sun- Thur 11 am 10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. Moderate.



GONZALES ★★ Some dining establishments are as much in the business of purveying comfort as of purveying cuisine. Gonzales is such a place Here, for very little money, one can have a beer and hunker down in the dark wood-grain booths and achieve low-budget Tex-Mex-style satori This is not to say that there aren’t good things to eat available at Gonzales. There definitely are, but one needs to know the topography of the menu to find them They are most notably the numerous varieties of burritos made with fat. tender flour tortillas the bean and cheese and the potato and egg are two good choices for those in search of hangover cures that do not require as much machismo to ingest as menudo does. The drive-through window provides a good, fast option for on-the-run diners. 4333 Maple. 528-2960. Daily 7 am-9 pm. AD credit cards. Inexpensive



D REVISITS

MIA’S ★★★ For lo these many years, I have been hearing about the chile rellenos at Mia’s And for lo these many years, I have been missing out on the chile rellenos at Mia’s I would remember that they were available only on Tuesday, but forget they were available only at dinner on Tuesday I would remember that they were available only at dinner on Tuesday, but they would be sold out. Recently, thanks to a kind-hearted waitress who let me have her pre-reserved relleno. I finally tasted the elusive entree, stuffed with ground beef, potato, and raisins, and can report that the result was worth the wait. The rest of Mia’s menu is above-average, but it’s the relleno – and the warm service-thai make the place worthy of cult status 4418 Lemmon 526 1020 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2;dinner Man-Fri 5-10. Sat-Sun noon-10. No credit cards, inexpensive to moderate.



MARIO & ALBERTO ★★★ The standards of Mario Leal’s second restaurant don’t seem to have suffered with the opening of a third one- this popular North Dallas spot seemed as fine (and as busy) as ever Among the mam courses, the filete de la casa (tenderloin strongly flavored with garlic, accompanied by lightly fried potato slices) remains a favorite. Those who crave fa jitas will find a relatively restrained version here-a manageably modest serving, and no sizzling fireworks. The Tex-Mex plates continue to run way behind the specialties in excellence. Coconut or cinnamon ice cream makes a refreshing dessert. Preston Valley Shopping Center. LBJ Frwy at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 1 J.30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 30 am-11 pm Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 50 membership charge MC, V. AE. Moderate.



MIDDLE eastern



Mr. SHISHKABAB ★★ The namesake kabab dishes-lamb, bee(, chicken, or shrimp skewered and broiled with mushrooms, onions, tomato, and green pepper -are fine Here, but the vegetarian options are where the real culinary excitement is The smart money is on hummus (a dip of puréed chickpeas-also known as garbanzo beans-served with pita bread), the falafel sandwich (fried balls of mashed, seasoned chickpeas with lettuce and sesame sauce in pita bread, described on the menu as “Elizabeth Taylor’s favorite”), and lemony tabouieh salad (marinated cracked wheat with parsley and tomato) Both the selling and the service are pleasant, if not exceedingly impressive 9454 Marsh Lane, just north of Northwest Highway 350 9314. Tue-Sun 11 am-3 pm & 5:30 pm-11 pm. Closed Mon. MC. V, DC CB. Moderate



NATURAL



BLUEBONNET CAFE ★★★ If you are a yuppie of a certain age. here is where, to the tune of James Taylor, you’re likely to run into friends, acquaintances, or the ex-spouses of same Bluebonnet Cafe is part of Bluebon-ne! Natural Foods Grocery, and as the name of the establishment indicates, the food lends toward the healthful. Happily, however. Bluebonnet doesn’t take a doctrinaire stand Burgers wine, and coffee-three controlled substances at hard-line health estab lishments-are allowed here. I love a number of Bluebonnet’s offerings, including the strawberry-banana-papaya smoothie and the black bean nachos with white cheese and guacamole What I don’t love is how complicated lite at Bluebonnet can seem at lunch food is served cafeteria style, but at dinner there is table service, albeit frequently spacey. and the customer isn’t allowed to take a look at the specials at the steam table 2218 Greenville 828-0052. Daily 9 am- 10pm MC. V, AE inexpensive.



THE DREAM CAFE ★★★★★ The bliss that is breakfast at The Dream Cafe is one of the worst-kept secrets in the Highland Park/Oak Lawn area On weekends, the place is full of sleepy yuppies and preppies in quest of fresh-squeezed orange juice. blueberry pancakes, and migas What still isn’t widely known is the appeal of The Dream Cafe’s changing lunch and dinner choices, which are simultaneously healthy, satisfying, and sophisticated And what hardly anyone at all knows is that although the place has no liquor license, you can bring your own wine or beer 3312 Knox. 522-1478. Mon-Wed 7 am-3 pm, Thur & Fri 7 am-10 pm. Sat 8 am-10pm. Sun 8 am-3 pm No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



SEAFOOD



ATLANTIC CAFE ★★★ The setting was as lovely as ever, and the service was fine but. except lor the sourdough bread the food on a recent visit to Atlantic Ca1e was disappointing. Sauced sole was mushy, roast duck was stringy, and my spirits were lowered considerably as a result I’m not ready, on the basis of one visit, to confirm the rumors that have been circulating about the decline of Atlantic Cafe, but the situation bears monitoring 4546 McKmney at Knox. 559-4441. LunchMon-Fn 11-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur530-1Q:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Expensive



AW SHUCKS ★★ Although the “fried thangs’-oysters and shrimp-that are the featured attraction at this relaxed restaurant are splendid, one does tend to feel in need of a shower after eating al Aw Shucks. But if you can handle the inherent grease factor involved in dining at an establishment fitted out with a battery of deep-fat fryers. Aw Shucks is a worthwhile destination. One exception to the rule of quality here is the fat French fries, which have hardly any flavor 3601 Greenville. 821-9449. 4535 Maple, 522-4498: Village at Bachman Lake. 3701 W Northwest Hwy. Suite310, 350-9777 Mon- Thur 11-11. Fri &Sat 11 am-midmght. Sun noon-10 pm at Northwest Hwy location, Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm.Fri & Sat 11 am-11:45, Sun 11 am-10 pm at Maple and Greenville locations. No credit cards. Inexpensive.



D REVISITS

CAFE PACIFIC ★★★★★ There are a lot of top-notch waiters working in Dallas, but Don at Cafe Pacific has to be in the very lop rank Even if the food hadn’t been as close to perfection as mere mortals can approach, his courtly but never pretentious manner and ability 10 be there exactly when you need him would still have made a recent lunch at Cafe Pacific a pleasure. All the same, Chinese chicken salad and a daily special of red snapper with a julienne of snow peas were all that they could and should have been. Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 526-1170. Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30, Sun 10:30-2:30, dinner Sun-Thur 5.30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 MC, V. AE. Expensive.



NEWPORT’S ★★★★ When Newport’s hits, as it did on an order of trout amandine on my last visit, it’s as good as any seafood restaurant in town. Unfortunately, on this same visit, swordfish kebabs were below par. However, such instances are anomalies in my experience. Which is a good thing, because unlike its competitors for serious seafood-Atlantic Cafe and Cafe Pacific – Newport’s can’t rely on a gorgeous setting (the vast, woody setting is merely inoffensive) or polished service (the waiter was bungling). 703 McKin-ney in the Brewery. 954-0220 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 All credit cards. Expensive.



SOUTHERN



BUBBA’S ★★ Forget the catfish, forget the chicken-fried steak, forget the vegetables (especially the amazingly tasteless mashed potatoes) All of these things are beside the point At Bubba’s you will be wanting the fried chicken, a high-rise yeast roll or two, and the fruit cobbler Order this sacred trinity of Southern food, and you will be rewarded with a matchless high-cholesterol, high-carbohydrate repast. You could drive through at Bubba’s and lake your order home, but that would deprive you of hanging out in the lipsttck-red booths that punctuate the black-and-white deco decor. 6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527 Daily 6 30 am-10 pm. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



Highland Park Cafeteria ★★★★★ standing in line at HPC and moving past the portraits of the presidents is a ritual of unmatched resonance in Dallas dining. HPC is a treasured local institution, from the Southern classics on the menu to the line staff, some of whom have been on the job for decades. Perhaps as a result, many regulars believe that heaven itself will resemble HPC, with hairnetted attendants querying, “Serve you7 and booths always available, The menu on cloud nine: ham or chicken-fried steak, green beans, mashed potatoes and cream gravy, a jaiapeno corn muffin, and cherry cobbler The Addison and downtown branches have their virtues, but they don’t reproduce the allure of the original Knox Street location. 4611 Cole, 526-3801. Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. Suite 600, 934-8800; downtown, 500 Akard at San Jacinto. Suite 220. 740-2400. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm at Cole location: Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Village on the Parkway location; Mon-Fn 6:30 am-2pm at downtown location No credit cards. MC, V, AE tor takeout and buffet orders of more than $10 Inexpensive



MAMA TAUGHT ME HOW ★★★★★ Here is a down-home dream come true, lovingly prepared versions of the greatest hits of Dixified cuisine. That name, incidentally, is no trumped-up product of marketing strategy. Mama is Doris Alexander, her daughters are Judy Sharp and Vickie Piland, and together they run the place with a combination of charm and warmth that is as specific to the South as are grits. Standouts include the red beans and riee, chicken-f ried steak (both available every day), chicken and dumplings, and coconut cream pie (which are available only on some days) 14902 Preston Rd #512 (SE comer of Preston & Belt Line) in Pepper Square 490-6301- Mon-Fri 7 am-2.30 pm, Thur 5-8 pm No credit cards. Inexpensive.



ROSEMARIE’S ★★★★ In the days when I toiled at The Dallas Morning News, one of my prescriptions for a bad morning was a quick trip across the bridge to Oak Cliff lor lunch at Rosemarie’s These days, I don’t make it to Rosemarie’s quite so often, but when I do, it’s like old-home week. Rosemane Hudson never forgets a customer, and her warmth accounts in part for the fanatical loyalty this littte cafeteria-style operation inspires; the terrific chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, yeast rolls, and peanut butter pie also might have something to do with it. 1411 N Zang. 946-4143. Mon-Fri 11-2. No credit cards. Inexpensive.



D REVISITS

TOLBRTS ★★ Tolbert’s lives again, though in a different location in a slick downtown office tower. Still, the place is sufficiently rusiicated in appearance to make it a good place to bring out-oMowners disappointed in Dallas’s lack of way-out-West charm It may be blasphemy to say, but I’ve never been a Ian of Tolbert’s chili. The burgers, however, are fine, and the donkey tails-flour tortilla-wrapped, deep-fried, cheese-stuffed hot dogs-are junk food nonpareil Skip dessert, especially the farkleberry sundae, which is vanilla ice cream sullied with blueberry glop 350 N St Paul, Suite 160,953-1353. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm Closed Sun. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



STEAKS



DEL FRISCO’S ★★★★★ In this age of Perrier, fish, and steamed vegetables, every so often it is important to balance the system with red wine, bee1. and baked potatoes. Del Frisco’s, a straight-ahead steak house with premium fare and prices to match, is made for just such occasions An appetizer of shrimp rémoulade was as good a version as you’ll find this side of New Or leans (which happens to be where owner Del Frisco hails from) I was quile happy with my softball sized eight-ounce filet until I tasted the twelve-ounce rib-eye that my partner in cholesterol had ordered. This was a steak to remember-a supremely flavorful piece of meat. Some things to bear in mind your steak will arrive in a pool of melted butter unless you nix this idea Side dishes are ordered a la carte, and in portions immense enough for four And bread pudding fans are advised to plan their meal to allow for Del Frisco’s version with raisins, coconut, and Jack Daniel’s sauce. 4300 Lemmon. 526-2101 Mon-Thur 5 pm- 10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5 pm-9 pm MC, V. AE Expensive.



LAWRY’S THE PRIME RlB ★★★★ Finding myself once again on the verge of the big NB (nervous breakdown), I decided on dinner at Lawry’s. The only choices are prime rib, prime rib. and prime rib-in three cuts-so the stress of ordering is minimal And the (are is hardcore comfort food that takes the overwrought diner back a couple of decades to the Sunday-dinner fare of a simpler time The beef was tender and flavorful; and the accompaniments- including a salad of Romaine. iceberg, and watercress, mashed potatoes; and creamed spinach – were admirable. At lunch there are also chicken, fish, and salad options, but prime rib is the point here. At lunch or dinner, the look of Lawry’s is surreally baronial, with tapestry and massive furniture abounding 3008 Maple. 521-7777 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri 6-1130, Sat 530-11 30, Sun5-10; Sun brunch 11-2:30. Allcredit cards Expensive.

D REVISITS

THE PALM ★★★★ The Palm is a weird experience for first-timers, to judge from the comments of the friend who accompanied me on my last checkup lunch She knew it was famous for huge, expensive lobsters and steaks, and. logically enough, expected the place to be plush and serious-looking. Instead, of course, the decor, such as it is. consists of the worst caricatures ever committed to paper of the locally famous and semi-famous Lunch at the Palm, it turns out, is a really good idea. The lunch specials are no! only less pricey than the choices at dinner, but they’re frequently better, to |udge from the celestial roast pork I tried this time around. 701 Ross. 698-0470- Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm.Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards Very expensive.



SUM ★★★★★ Gone from the scene for more than two years. Siam has returned in a new location The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever: the pork satay comes with peerless curried peanut sauce, the spring rolls are commendable, the beef salad is rolling in leaves of fresh mini, and pud Thai, a dish of rice noodles with shrimp, ground peanuts, and scrambled egg, tastes better here than anywhere. With its new amenities and more professional service, Siam is one of Dallas’s all-time great Asian restaurants. Northwest Corners Shopping Center, 2415 W Northwest Highway #108 [accessible from Harry Hines]. 358-3122 Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm,Fri&Sat 11-11 Closed Sun All credit cards. Moderate.



SlAM ROSE ★★★★ The wilds of Addison are not where one expects to come across ethnic-food finds. But after a shopping expedition at nearby Prestonwood, my partner in credit card abuse and I spied Siam Rose, where we had a superb Thai dinner. The spring rolls were fine, but it was the pad that (rice noodles with shrimp, bean sprouts, egg, scallions, and peanuts) and the massaman chicken cooked in coconut milk with tamarind and curry sauce, potatoes, and peanuts that were startlingly good. The sweet-natured service and quiet setting are bonuses. 5290 Belt Line, Suite 142 991-9881 Lunch Mon-Fn 11 -3: dinner daily 5-11 MC. V, AE inexpensive to moderate.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES



CACHAREL ★★★★★ This pretty establishment with a glassed-in exhibition kitchen has a fixed price of $10 for lunch and $22 for dinner. The fare-including such Gallic classics as green salad with goat cheese, asparagus soup, scallops with an assertive tarragon sauce, and lamb with a nalural-juice sauce – would be worth twice the tariff Brookhallow Two. 2221 E Lamar. Suite 910. Arlington 640-9981. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Moderate.

ENJOLIE ★★★★ In most parts of the country, hotel food is something to be endured by travelers and ignored by locals. Hereabouts, however, some of the best restaurant fare around can be found in hotels. Enjolie also belongs in the category of great hotel restaurants, although it is somewhat removed from its peers in terms of distance from the heart of Dallas Nevertheless, the drive is a brief one, and worth it for the likes of pheasant mousse with cranberry puree, chilled cream of celery and smoked shrimp soup, peppered chicken breast served with a shallot and Zinfandel reduction, beef with Bourbon sauce, and chocolate and coffee pots de crème. Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel. 221 E Las Colinas Blvd. Irving. 556-0800, ext 3155. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Expensive.



FORT WORTH



LE CHARDONNAY★★★★ Former Ceret chef Philip Lecoq is a co-owner of this new bistro, and its combination of serious food and an informal atmosphere is reminiscent of that late, lamented establishment The lamb chops topped with goat cheese, served with a rosemary sauce and accompanied by herbed French fries, are a standout 2443 Forest Park Blvd. Forl Worth. (817) 926-5622. Tues-Sat 11:30am-10:30 pm. Sun 11 am-3 pm. MC. V. AE. Moderate.



SAINT-EMILIOH ★★★★ Proprietor Bernard Tronche grew up in Saint-Emilion, a village in France’s Bordeaux area Happily for the sake of Fort Worth residents, he moved to Cowtown and opened a charming restaurant that serves excellent straight-ahead French food Considering the four-course fixed price of $20 per person – a great bargain by Dallas standards- it’s surprising that more Dallasites don’t make the trek. The last time I did, the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leaf lettuce, radicchio. watercress walnuts, and bits of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start (Order the last with the boneless quail and you’ve got the snail-and-quail special.) Juicy swordfish provencal and nicely roasted duck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for (Actually, one could ask that the duck be boned.) For dessert, pass on the fluffy, lightweight chocolate mousse and opt for the extraordinary crème caramel 3617 W Seventh (817)737-2781. Mon-Fri 11 30am-2 pm & 6-10 pm. Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun MC. V. AE. Moderate.



NIGHTLIFE



BAR OF SOAP. We’d like to see this place make it just because of its name. A combination art pub and launderette, you can do your wash in the back room while sipping your favonte beer or wine. But you’ll want to make sure you stay there long enough to hear original music and poetry readings performed on lop of the “soap box ” Along with the original artwork hanging on the walls, plans are in the works to provide people a chance to show their own productions on the bar’s VCR 3615ParryAve. 823-6617 Daily noon-2 am. No credit cards



BELLESTRR. With wave after New Wave of music rolling in yearly, the old country-western culture might be fading. Are you kidding? Belle Starr, packed with a middle-aged boot-kicking crowd, continues to be a huge money maker There are bands every night, urban cowboys everywhere, and women in those tight-fitting jeans that would make any good ol’ boy swoon There’s also free beer Tuesday through Thursday, which means you’ll have trouble squeezing into the place 7724 N Central at Southwestern 750-4787. Mon-Sat 7 pm-2 am. Sun 4 pm-2 am. All credit cards.



BOILER ROOM. Walk inside and it’s easy to see how this bar got its name: its the actual boiler room of the old Sunshine Biscuit Company. However, this has nothing to do with its popularity as a dance club and the best new singles bar close to downtown. Some may feel inhibited dancing in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows next to the dance floor; others won’t want to leave. Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace 603 Munger 988-0581. Daily 1 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.



CALLAGHMTS. You want an Irish bar’’ Great. This claims to be one, but you’re more likely to find new music played by live bands than some old guys up on stage playing Irish |igs Some nights there’s no music and it’s lust a hang-out bar where you can play darts. Sometimes there is an Irish band The place has no real identity, which is why we tike it. 1701 Market at Ross. 761-9355. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am. Sat noon-2 am. Sun noon-2 am. AE. DC CB.



CLUB DADA. You may recognize the name from the avant-garde performing group, Victor Dada That’s because three of the members opened it. and it does have an eclectic style new music and jazz and nightly versions of “performance art” One of our favorites is the “Word of the Day.” or ” Monday Night Feedback; where an improv team gives its own version of Monday Night Football. 2720 Elm at Crowdus 744-4012. Tue-Sat 8 pm-2 am MC. V. AE



DlQfS LAST RESORT. The customers of this restaurant/bar spend most of their time saying, over and over, “Excuse me.” The place is usually standing room only, and with good reason It’s a fun bar offering live Dixieland music, bench sealing, and decent food that comes in a bucket As the West End grows, so will the crowds. But not at Dick’s – they can’t get any bigger Corner of Ross andRecord 747-0001. Mon-Thur 11:30 am midnight, Fri & Sat 11 am-2am. Sun 1 pm-midmght. MC, V, DC.



ETCETEM. Think of all the names this hot North Dallas bar has been called: Papagayo, In Cahoots, etc Oh wail The last one is actually the name of the bar now, and it’s the latest one to attract long customer lines. It’s hot for all the right reasons: search lights outside cross the sky, waitresses slink by in hand-painted uniforms, a dress code encourages expensive clothes, and most important, it’s the newest place on the street 8796 N Cenlral Expwy 692-5417 Sun-Thur 4:30 pm-2am.Fn 4 30 pm-3 am. Sat 8 pm-3 am MC. V. AE



FAST & COOL After a meteoric rise to stardom, Fast & Cool is now undisputably the King of Lower Greenville. Apparently the management has decided that patrons don’t want to hear an eleven-minute “dance-mix* version of the latest pop-chart bullet The music here is predominantly Motown sound and authentic soul from artists like James Brown and Ike and Tina Turner. The dance floor is the center of this tiny universe, and it has a magnetic effect on anyone who walks in the door It’s hard to imagine even the most hardcore Baptist resisting this dance floor Unlike countless dance clubs that have come and gone on Greenville Avenue, this place has staying power. 3606 Greenville 827-5544 Sun& Tue-Thur 8 pm-2 am, Fri & Sat 7-4 Closed Mon. Cover S3 Thur; $4 Fri & Sat MC. V, AE.



FROGGY BOTTOMS, Ever wondered what a basement bar during prohibition must have looked like7 This is it. A wonderful rhythm and blues club offering good barbecue and cold beer, the atmosphere here was definitely designed for good times in a very small setting. The Tonny Foy decor can best be described as early flea market The walls are decorated with graffiti and scrap metal Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603 Munger 988-0581 Daily 11 am-2 am Cover vanes. MC. V. AE



FUNNY BONE. The Funny Bone is to the comedy scene what McDonald’s is to hamburgers. It’s the largest what McDonalds is to hamburgers. Its the largest chain of comedy clubs in the country You may not recognize all the names that appear here, but that doesn’t mean they’re not funny. Many of these comics are in the middle of long runs playing the ten clubs around the country Tuesday nighls you can catch the local improv group. “4 out of 5 doctors” LBJ Freeway and Greenville Avenue in the High Point Village Shopping Center 437-2000. Shows: Wed. Thur. Sun 8:30; Fri 8:30 & 10:45. Sat 7:45 & 10; Tue 9 pm MC.V.AE.



THE LOUNGE Want to throw down a beer with young intelligentsia? Here’s what you do first. dress chic, but don’t let it look elegantly chic. Casual chic is the style here (unless you’re in the New Wave crowd and you come in so everyone can have a look at what they’ve been told is “gloriously outrageous? fashion), Then, you’d better see one of those foreign movies playing next door a! the Inwood Theatre so you’ll have something to talk about at the bar And you’d better show a little poise. This is as close as Dallas gets to one of those sophisticated, high-tech upper West Side bars in New York where you wish you could eavesdrop on the conversation at every table 5460 W Lovers Lane 350- 7834. Sun-Thur 5 pm- 1 am, Fri & Sat 5 pm-2 am AE. DC, CB.



PHOTS Wine Bar. You want wine by the glass, this is the place to get it-twenty-one varieties, ranging in price from $2 50 to $21 a glass (If you’re trying to check out all twenty-one in one night, the half-glass option might be advisable) There is a menu, and it’s more than passable, if less than awe-inspiring, but wine, not food, is the lure here. Pinot’s setting is closer to plain than plush, which doesn’t seem to bother in the least the wine and restaurant business crowd that gravitates here. 2926 N Henderson. 826-1949 Daily 2 pm-midnight MC, V, AE



Plaza BAR, It’s |ust as the name implies, a plaza that opens to the alley of Dallas Alley, offering indoor and outdoor seating, with food service from two different restaurants. This is a great place to have a casual conversation and drink, or meet friends before tackling the West End for the night. Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace 603 Munger 988-0581 Sun-Thur 11 am-midnight, Fri &Sat 11 am-2 am. MC, V. AE.



STARCH CLUB. A lot of people have been wondering: will Starck survive ’the bust’”? Will it survive the opening of more and more West End bars? True, it may not be quite as crowded and it’s only open Thursday through Sunday now, but we re happy to report that the bar that taught us how to go to the bathroom together is still going strong Which only goes to prove, there is life without ecstasy. 703 McKmney in the Brewery. 720-0130. Thur & Sun 9 pm-2 am. Fri& Sat 9 pm-4 am Closed Man-Wed Cover $5 Thur& Sun after 9 pm; $10 Fri & Sat alter 9 pm. All credit cards.



STATE BAR. One sign of a bars success is the sighting of T-shirts emblazoned with its logo on the persons of its patrons and would-be patrons. By that standard. State Bar is nearly as successful as-and far more hip than – the Hard Rock Cafe. What has made State Bar’s martini-glass trademark omnipresent is simple: this is a bar lor low-key Bohemians who want to have civilized discourse while gazing out picture windows facing the fairgrounds across the street The subdued lighting – there are rheostats at each booth – and moderate volume of the music make conversation possible. All in all, the effect is of a gallery opening without the pic-tures 3611 Parry. 821-9246. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat noon-2am, Sun 6 pm-2 am. MC, V.AE.



ST0NELEIGH P. Ask someone about the Stoneleigh P and they’re likely to describe it as one of their favorite places for a casual lunch Ask someone else, and they’ll tell you what a great bar it is for a late-night drink. Both are right This would be a great neighborhood bar even if it weren’t in a great neighborhood Its a long-time favorite of the downtown set and advertising types. 2926 Maple. 871-2346. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am. Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun noon-midnight. AE



TakeFivE. Chets will tell you that a fine dinner will taste better if it looks good. If that holds true for music, then the jazz in this bar will sound great. Take Five has a sophisticated look done in black and live music at a level that lets you enjoy talking to the person across the table. There is more lime devoted to music than breaks at Take Five, and it’s usually the least crowded of the Alley clubs. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603 Monger. 988-0581. Mon-Fri 5 pm-2 am, Sat & Sun 11 am-2 am. MC, V, AE.



ZANZIBAR. A fresh face on the burger-spattered strip of Lower Greenville Avenue. Zanzibar offers drinks and good deli food in a colorful cafe setting. The decor-neon, glass bricks, and pink-and-green walls- is odd enough to work. And even though Zanzibar looks cosmopolitan, it has a neighborhood bar feel to it that leads to discussions among perfect strangers from table to table 2912 Greenville 828-2250 Mon 11 am-midnight. Tue-Sat 11:30 am-2-am. Sun 3 pm-midmght; Sun brunch 10:30-3. MC, V. AE.

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