Wednesday, July 6, 2022 Jul 6, 2022
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DMAGZ021987 — 030

By D Magazine |

RESTAURANTS

AMERICAN



ARTHUR’S ★★ ★ ★ For the benefit of newcomers to Dallas, it should be explained that Arthur’s is a hoary old-timer on the local restaurant scene, and in recent years, the food tasted pretty solidly out of it. Since the advent of chef Jerry House, though, Arthur’s menu has moved into a rewardingly contemporary mode. Although the new fare is expensive, a dinner of steamed lobster and roast pheasant with a pear, honey, and thyme sauce was well worth the price. 8350 N Central Expwy in Campbell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Very expensive.

BABY ROUTH ★★ ★ ★ ★ This infant son of Routh Street Cafe is a casual, relatively inexpensive alternative to the pricey, reservation-required pleasures of Routh Street Cafe. Stephan Pyles and chef Amy Ferguson (who first made a name for herself in Houston) have come up with an earthy menu that is a pleasing balance of the new and the familiar. Don’t miss the smoked corn chowder with Collard greens cream, the spicy honey-fried chicken, the grilled prawn and apple-smoked bacon club sandwich on toasted brioche, and the chocolate-ancho pot de crème. 2708 Routh. 871-2345. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 6-11 ; late-night menu daily 11 pm-1 am, brunch Sat & Sun 11-3 All credit cards Inexpensive to moderate.

BEAU NASH ★★ ★ ★ ★ As the months have gone by, Beau Nash has come into its own identity, and its virtues seem more and more apparent. For one thing, it keeps late hours-at least by Dallas standards-and does so every night. For another, it’s a lively, entertaining hangout And last but not least, the menu has been astutely adjusted, although not completely overhauled. Happily, the smoked salmon pizza-the perfect partner to champagne-survived. Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney. 871-3240. Breakfast daily 6.30-10:30: Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-3; dinner daily 6 pm-11 30 pm; Sun brunch 11 -2:30 All credit cards. Expensive.

BLOM’S ★★ ★ ★ ★ Last time around at Blom’s, the service was as flawless as ever, and the food – always quite good in the past-was of five-star quality. The five-course, fixed-price ($38) “Taste of Blom’s” menu of the day was especially impressive: hill country venison with Cornice pear and Wisconsin blue cheese; cream of cauliflower soup; shrimp stir-fried with snow peas, ginger, and truffles; sorbets; fillet of lamb in pastry with tomato salsa and goat cheese; and a summer pudding with a strawberry sauce. Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. Expensive.

CITY CAFE ★★★★★City Cafe’s innovative yet reassuringly homey menu (which changes every Wednesday) continues to be one of the best in town in terms of quality-to-price ratio. A recent dinner was nearly flawless: the mixed garden salad; jambalaya with ham, oysters, shrimp, and andouille sausage; chocolate quiche with shortbread crust; and crème br?lée with a coconut cookie crust were all they should have been 5757 W Lovers Lane (Just west of Dallas N Tollway). 351-2233 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun MC, V, AE. Moderate.

CROCKETT’S ★★ The featured attraction at Crockett’s is “small plates”-appetizers that aren’t called appetizers and that arrive all at once, rather than in sequence. The mixed-baby-lettuce salad and the dramatic black ravioli (due to squid ink; we’re definitely not in Kansas any more) are two of the more arresting choices. The selection of wines by the glass is excellent. Lincoln Centre, LBJ Frwy at Dallas N Tollway. 991-1189. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.

DAKOTA’S ★★★★Dakota’s current lunch and dinner menus, modified by new chef Lisa Smith, include more salads and light dishes than did their predecessors. However, the emphasis is still on things Southwestern and mesquite-grilled. To judge from two exemplary items from the dinner menu-grilled lamb chops stuffed with herbed Texas goat cheese with Zinfandel sauce and grilled beef tenderloin fillet with mushroom caps-this is all to the good. 600 N Akard. 740-4001 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30; Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Lunch moderate, dinner expensive.

DREAM CAFE ★★★★★ The bliss that is breakfast at the Dream Cafe is one of the worst-kept secrets in the Highland Park/Oak Lawn area. On weekends, the place is full of sleepy yuppies, hippies, and preppies in quest of fresh-squeezed orange juice, blueberry pancakes, and migas. What still isn’t widely known is the appeal of the Dream Cafe’s changing lunch and dinner choices, which are simultaneously healthy, satisfying, and sophisticated-which is quite a feat. And what hardly anyone at all knows is that although the place has no liquor license, you can bring your own wine or beer. 3312 Knox. 522-1478. Mon-Wed 7 am-3 pm, Thur & Fri 7 am-10 pm, Sat 8 am-10 pm, Sun 8 am-3 pm. No credit cards; checks accepted. Inexpensive

GERSHWIN’S ★★ Like Crockett’s, Gershwin’s now offers “small plates,” which are like appetizers, except the idea is you order several instead of, rather than before, a main course. Black bean cakes with sour cream, baked goat cheese with almonds, and barbecued shrimp are some of the small-plate highlights. The rest of the menu continues to be surprisingly well-prepared in light of its extensiveness (usually a warning sign for savvy restaurant-goers). 8442 Walnut Hill. 373-7171. Mon-Thur 11 30 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11:30am-1 am, Sun 10:30 am-3 pm & 5 pm-midnight. All credit cards Inexpensive to moderate.

GOOD EATS ★★ This spiffy diner is a prime source of nutrition for many Oak Lawn residents, who rely on the basic breakfast fare, burgers, barbecue, and grilled fish that make up the menu. Nothing at Good Eats is ever truly great, but nothing is ever truly terrible, either. In any case, the juke box and sassy service seem to make everything taste better 3531 Oak Lawn. 521-1398. Sun-Thur 7am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 7 am-11 30 pm. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.

HARD ROCK CAFE ★ Rock ’n’ roll memorabilia and the sense of being where it, whatever it is, is happening are the draws here, not first-rate food. Accordingly, it’s not surprising to find that the burgers, steak, and swordfish on the menu consistently emerge charred and nearly inedible. What is surprising is that the starkly named pig sandwich-a simple assemblage of bun, shredded pork, and barbecue sauce, served with pretty good cole slaw and pretty poor fries – is truly great junk food. Stick with the pig sandwich and devil’s food cake for dessert (the purportedly homemade pies are soggy) and you’ll leave happy, even if eating beneath the Beatles’ flight bags isn’t your idea of ultimate bliss. Service is so nice here it’s almost frightening. 1206 McKinney. 827-8282 Daily 11 am-2 am. MC, V, AE. Moderate.

The Mansion on Turtle Creek ★ ★★★★The Mansion hasno competition in its melding of Dallas’s historic past and gastronomic future. In the golden glow of the restored, circa 1925 Sheppard King mansion, Dean Fearing turns out cutting-edge New American Cuisine with a Southwestern accent. Current standouts: pan-fried oysters with roasted peppers; Louisiana crab cakes with a sauce of smoked chilies, lobster, and blood orange; and chicken with a maple-pecan crust and roasted garlic potatoes. 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room-jackets and ties required. Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch Sat noon-2:30. Sun 11-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper Mon-Thur 10:30pm-midnight, Fri& Sat 11 pm-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast Mon-Fri 7-11.30. Sat & Sun 7 am-1 pm; tea Mon-Fri 2-5 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.

MOLINE BAR & GRILL ★★ In the past, this has been one of my favorite West End retreats. The setting is still handsome and low-key, but the food had changed for the worse on a recent visit. The problem was not in the entrées-seafood pasta and sautéed catfish-but in everything else. A request as to the specific provenance of the Chardonnay available was treated as an eccentric demand; bread resembled steak-house-style Texas toast; and carrot cake was distressingly soupy. Time – and a return visit – will tell if this unhappy experience was an anomaly. 302 N Market (entrance on Pacific). 747-6430. Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate

901: AN AMERICAN RESTAURANT ★★★★service may beoverly intrusive and familiar for my taste, but the food is nearly flawless here Crab cakes were on the soupy side, but an appetizer of pan-fried medallions of rabbit with a spicy tomato sauce was the best treatment of bunny I’ve ever tasted Prime rib was very nice indeed, but it was surpassed by the pasta of the day – linguine with shrimp and veal in a tomato sauce. And for dessert, although there are technically other choices, the only choice, at least as far as I’m concerned, is the Key lime pie. Forget all the sleazy, green-hued imitators of your past. This is the real thing InterFirst Plaza, 901 Main. 747-9010. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30 All credit cards; personal checks accepted. Moderate.

PARIGI ★★ ★ ★ Saturday brunch at Parigi is one of the most civilized ways imaginable to begin the weekend (Sunday brunch, unfortunately, is not an option because Parigi isn’t open then.) In slick, post-modern surroundings, one can gather one’s forces for the usual winding-up-the-week round of shopping, errand-running, and socializing. Fresh-squeezed juice, espresso, mega-muffins, and peerless variations of scrambled eggs (with bacon and cream cheese, for instance) are the culinary attraction. Lunch and dinner, like brunch, feature a changing menu, but the cold sliced beef tenderloin is a lunchtime constant 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Tue-Sat 6:30-11; Sat brunch 10:30-3. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. Expensive.

PLAZA CAFE ★★★ Mansion alumnus Wayne Broadwell has opened an oasis for the design community in an area previously bereft of top-quality food. (Ironically, however, the place is not aesthetically breathtaking.) For lunch, the goat cheese pizza, grilled breast of chicken with basil vinaigrette, and crème br?lée are all winners. 1444 Oak Lawn 742-4433. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Fri 6-10, Sat 6-10:30; Happy hour Mon-Fri 5 pm-7 pm. MC, V, AE. Expensive.

ROUTH STREET CAFE ★★★★★ Routh Street Cafe’s formula for national gastronomic fame: Stephan Pyles’s New Southwestern Cuisine; a sleek, Tonny Foy-designed setting; and snappy, congenial service. The five-course, fixed-price menu ($42, with surcharges forcer-tain items) is printed daily, but certain items-such as cornmeal catfish with smoked pepper/mint marigold sauce, lobster enchilada with red pepper crème fra?che, lamb with pecan and garlic sauce, berry buckle with cinnamon ice cream, and apple-walnut spice cake- have become near fixtures When food-obsessed travelers come to town, this is the reservation they want. This means prime-time reservations should be made well in advance. 3005 Routh at Cedar Springs 871-7161 Tue-Sat 6-1030 pm. Closed Sun & Mon Reservations. All credit cards Expensive

SAN SIMEON ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Richard Chamberlain’s food matches the splendor of San Simeon’s service and its subtly, weirdly wonderful interior (Keep your eye on the lighting, it changes over the course of a meal.) Pick hits include a chowder of corn, wild rice, and duck sausage; chilled bow-tie pasta and prosciutto with sage walnut pesto; and Romano-crusted veal with angel-hair pasta and tomato sauce. 2515 McKinney at Fairmount in Chateau Plaza. 871-7373. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Expensive.

WEST END OASIS ★★★ From day one of its existence, this has been the best-looking restaurant in town, with its granite waterfall, contemporary Southwestern art, and handsome woody setting in the restored Texas Moline Building. This much is certain. What is not certain is the food, which has been inconsistent and unduly expensive in the past. Now the menu is considerably more reasonably priced, but on a recent lunch visit, seafood pasta and stir-fried shrimp with rice pilaf were acceptable; over-the-hill crème br?lée was not. 302 N Market (entrance on Pacific). 698-9775. Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Very expensive.



BAKERIES



LA MADELEINE ★ ★ ★ These are trying times, and every so often one needs a judicious combination of caffeine and carbohydrates to make it through the afternoon. La Madeleine’s strong coffee and raspberry beignets (or, alternatively, almond croissants) do the job for me. There are also more wholesome alternatives along the lines of soups, salads, and sandwiches-as well as the top-quality breads that are the true raison d’être of the place. The rustic setting at both locations is pleasant. 3072 Mockingbird, 696-6960; 3906 Lemmon, 521-0182. Daily 7 am-9 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted Inexpensive.

MASSIMO DA MILANO★★★★ 11 there’s a bad item available at this attractive Italian bakery/café, I’ve yet to discover it despite exhaustive research Although the changing pizza, pasta, and salad offerings are always alluring, more often than not I find myself opting for the focac-cia sandwich, round flat bread filled with ham, cheese, leaf lettuce, and tomato slices. For dessert, there are any number of pastries to choose from, but nothing suits a cup of espresso better than the little amaretti cookies These days, service for the cafeteria-style service line ranges from disorganized to efficient, which is an improvement over days past, when disjointed to chaotic were the applicable adjectives. 5519 W Lovers Lane. 351-1426. Mon-Thur 9 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 9 am-11 pm, Sun 9-9 MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.



BARBECUE



ANDERSON’S ★★ Decorated in the finest Western/ schlock tradition, Anderson’s is what food in Texas used to be all about: plenty of choices of smoked meat, with a few token vegetables provided to ward off scurvy. The ’cue-especially the ribs -is as it should be, and the butter beans and baked potatoes are a credit to their genre. 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. 6300735 Mon-Fri 11 am-7:45 pm, Sat 11 am-3 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards, personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.

SONNY BRYAN’S ★★★★ Accompanied by the last two Sonny Bryan’s virgins in town, I headed for Sonny’s on a cool day-pointing out that the woodsmoke and patrons eating from the hoods of their vehicles are essential elements of the experience Reviewing ethics compelled us to order different things, but the wisdom of sticking to the awe-inspiring sliced beef sandwich was reconfirmed by the scorched ribs, rubbery sliced ham, and ho-hum beans. However, that sandwich alone is sufficient to earn Sonny’s its stars. 2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted Inexpensive.

SOLLY’S ★★ There are those who believe that good barbecue can’t be found in the squeaky-clean reaches of Addison. They haven’t eaten at Solly’s, where the “casual cuisine” promised by the logo features barbecue as flavorful as that in any other part of town-and French fries that were recently derived from a potato, which is a sadly rare state of affairs. 4801 Belt Line. 387-2900. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun noon-9 pm. MC, V. Inexpensive.



BURGERS



SNUFFER’S ★★★ Snuffer’s is nearly always packed with patrons who either go to SMU or look as if they ought to, but this should not be held against it. The menu is small and well-prepared, with emphasis on salads, nachos, burgers, and the like. The immense basket of fries is a trademark: I wouldn’t have believed it was possible to finish an order of the plain fries, much less those with cheese, but I have witnessed the feat. 3526 Greenville. 826-6850 Mon-Sat 11 am-2am, Sun 11:30 am-2 am. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



C A J U N



ARCADIA BAR ★★★★ First things first: the Arcadia Bar has nothing to do with the Arcadia Theater, which is across the street The Arcadia Bar is a no-frills hangout. (The music is mostly recorded, though there is sometimes a pianist.) The menu is small, mostly Cajun, and all deftly executed. From a perky green salad to perfect fried oysters to New Orleans-quality dirty rice, the food is first-rate. 2114 Greenville Ave. 821-1300. Daily 5 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.

CAFE MARGAUX ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ The blackened-everything brigade-those trend-surfing restaurateurs who don’t know their elbows from their étouffées-have made many local diners deeply suspicious of all Cajun food served outside a fifty-mile radius of New Orleans. Happily, Cafe Margaux is another matter altogether. The food here measures up to Louisiana’s finest: house-made rolls, green salad, crawfish étouffée, oysters Bienville, trout with crab-meat stuffing, and bread pudding were all flawless. Good news for regulars accustomed to waiting in line for the twelve tables: expansion has brought the number of tables to twenty, and a well-considered selection of American wine is now available. 4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886 Sun-Thur6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. MC, V, AE. Moderate.

COPELAND’S ★★ ★ This enormous outpost of a New Orleans-based restaurant empire serves remarkably good food, most notably an appetizer of oysters en brochette and a dessert of chocolate cookie ice cream. Service is excellent, but do expect a wait for a table and don’t expect much in the way of decor and architecture. 5353 Belt Line. 661-1883. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. All credit cards. Moderate.



CHINESE



BEST A ROUND ★★★Here at D, our fun-loving staff members frequently find themselves hard at work-and hungry-at odd hours Lately, we’ve taken to ordering in from Best A Round, which has the virtues of low prices, quick delivery, and food that may be short on finesse but is reliably tasty. We particularly favor the shrimp and broccoli. Best A Round has a couple of counters- and a television that tends to be tuned to MTV-for customers who want to eat in, but most either pick up or have their fodder delivered. 3607-A Greenville. 827-3631. Mon-Thur 2:30-2:30, Fri 2:30 pm-4 am, Sat noon-4 am, Sun noon-2:30 am. No credit cards. Inexpensive.

CATHY’S WOK ★★ While what emerges from Cathy’s Wok won’t knock your socks off and is probably not worth the haul to the North land if you live in Dallas, it is a worthwhile alternative if you are a resident of Piano. From the informative menu (dishes are described in detail, complete with calorie count), I tried decent won-ton soup, an egg roll that was heavy on the cabbage, peppery chicken (with plenty of green pepper in a savory brown sauce), and shredded pork with garlic sauce (with lots of julienned carrots in an overly sweet sauce). Even when the food here isn’t perfect, the ingredients are always fresh and mercifully MSG-free, and the prices are right ($3.95 for lunch, $4.95 for dinner). 4010 W 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Mon-Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.

CHINA PALACE ★★★ Here is a restaurant to remember the next time they’re turning on the house lights at Starck Club and it dawns upon members of your party that you haven’t eaten in days. Do not, under any circumstances, miss the fried dumplings, which are as good as fried dumplings get on this or any other continent. After the dumplings, however, things get a little dicier: on my last visit, the shredded pork with bean curd was worthwhile, the Hunan prawns were rendered unappealing by a sweet, characterless sauce, and the spring rolls were merely edible. The setting is pleasingly odd (the red and green color scheme lends a year-round Christmas atmosphere), and service is ac-commodating. 400 N Greenville, Richardson. 669 1636. Sun-Thur 11 am-3am, Fri 11 am-4 am, Sat 10:30 am-4 am. MC, V, DC. Moderate.

CRYSTAL PAGODA ★ ★ ★ ★ One of the oddest facts of dining in Dallas is that although there are more Chinese restaurants around than any other kind, we don’t have a single one that approaches the greatness of, say, New York’s Siu Lam Kung. Crystal Pagoda doesn’t match that standard, but it’s as good as Chinese food gets in Dallas- which is quite good. The shredded beef Szechwan-style and the moo shu pork are two especially good choices here. The service and setting are both extremely pleasant. 4516 McKinney. 526-3355. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate.

DYNASTY★★★★ This relatively formal Chinese restaurant, despite its unlikely location adjacent to a motel, is among the best in the area – admittedly, a backhanded compliment given Dallas’s dearth of truly great Chinese food. On a recent visit, decent shrimp rolls and spring rolls were followed by indecently good rainbow chicken (julienned chicken, snow peas, red pepper, and Wung bean Sprouls) and the equally praiseworthy, if oddly named, silver gourd savoury (shrimp, green peppers, straw mushrooms, and water chestnuts). Orange beef was loo fatty, as it lends to be in Chinese restaurants all over town Garden inn. 4101 Bel! Line, Addison. 385-7888. Sun-Thur11:30am-10:30pm, Fri &Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.

FORBIDKNOtt ★ ★ Lale Saturday night in Addison, and after two false starts – one restaurant with an hour-long wait for a table at 10 p.m. and another with a wedding in progress-my unwilling companion (who is skeptical of any venture north of Mockingbird anyway) and I were in the zone of dangerous hunger and getting testier by the moment. It was. therefore, with a sense of relief and thankfulness that we found Forbidden City open (until 3 a.m. on weekends) and uncrowded. Egg rolls were nothing special, and an order of orange beef was unacceptably tough, but the uninformatively named chefs chicken was remarkably good: innocent-looking shredded chicken stir-fried in an incendiary sesame sauce and served on a bed of bean sprouts. 5290 Belt Une 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am. Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.

HAN-CHU ★★ ★ Han-Chu is a great restaurant for an illicit affair: the place is dark as a cave even at high noon. By Chinese-restaurant standards, it’s even sophisticated-looking the color scheme is eggplant and burgundy, the waiters are in black tie, and there are roses on the tables. On my most recent visit, I found the shredded pork with ginger sauce to be memorable, thanks to a zippy flavor and an appealing texture imparled by the presence of black mushrooms and bamboo shoots. The princess chicken, on the other hand, was an altogether forgettable aggregation of cubed chicken, celery, and water chestnuts. Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy at Park Lane. Suite 191 691-0900. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.

JASMINE ★★★ Jasmine’s setting sets it apart from standard-issue Chinese restaurants It’s plush to the point of featuring a white baby grand piano. For reasons unknown, the menu featured some fractured French but its offerings don’t suffer as a result. Shrimp rolls arrived encased in black seaweed wrappers- not bad. mind you, but still, thestuff did take some getting used to Happily, however, there were no untoward surprises involved in the top-notch treatments of moo shu pork and beef Mimosa (sautéed in an orange-flavored red pepper sauce) 4002 Beltbne 991-6867 Lunch daily 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 6-ll 30. Sun 6-10 All credit cards. Moderate.

SZECHWAN PAVILION ★ ★ ★ With its sophisticated peach and gray color scheme, Szechwan Pavilion is an aesthetic knockout. At its best, the food very nearly lives up to the setting. The spring rolls – crisp wanton wrappers punctuated by shrimp, sprouts, and carrot shreds-are musts to order After that, kung pao shrimp with red pepper and peanuts might be in order. Two dishes to avoid: dry, nearly tasteless hot spicy lobster sautéed with ginger m chili sauce, and chicken chow mem with canned, as opposed to fresh, mushrooms. Prices are a bit higher here than at most local Chinese restaurants, but one can see. in such touches as the exotic Illies on the tables, where the surcharge Is going. 8411 Preston, Suite 132 at Northwest Highway 368-4303. Mon-Thur M am-10:30 pm. Fri 11-11. Satnoon-11 pm, Sun noon-W:30pm. MC. V, AE. Moderate to expensive.

TONG’S HOUSE ★★ Although the dan-dan noodles with sesame-peanut sauce are still some of the best (and some of the only) to be found in town, the rest of a recent dinner at Tongs was a bummer Wonton soup was inedibly soggy, moo goo gai pan included canned mushrooms, and orange beef Szechwan-style was too chewy for comfort All the same, there was a half hour wait for a table. Still, Tongs is worth a trip for true ; Chinese food fans, il only for Ifie opportunity 10 order such frighteningly authentic dishes as pig’s stomach with bean soup, cold cattle stomach. and beef tendons m hot sauce. 1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858 Mon-Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.

UNCLE TAI’S HUNAN YUAN ★ ★ ★ ★ Uncle Tais is the highest of high-end Chinese options m town. For prices consistently higher than any other Chinese restaurant in town, the customer gets Ruch off-the-beaten-path dishes as sautéed sliced pheasant, frog’s legs with gingko nuts, and sliced duck with young ginger roots The quality of ingredients is very high, although the level of saltiness continues to be problematic. Gallena. 13350 Dallas Pkwy. Suite 3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. Jackets required for dinner Ali credit cards Expensive.



DELI



BAGELSTEIN’S ★ ★ Although Bagelstein’s has a lengthy menu of breakfast and deli options, the chewy. fresh bagels are the point of Ute place, and they are as good as you can get west of Chicago The only decision, therefore, is what kind of bagel -plain, egg, pumper-nickel garlic, omen, sad raisin poppy seed, or sesame seed-and which variety of cream cheese-plain, vegetable. Strawberry, chive, herb and spice, lox, or cinnamon raisin. Northwood Hills Shopping Center. 8104 Spring Valley 234-3787 Mon6am-2pm. Tue-Sun 6 am-9 pm All credit cards, inexpensive.

KUBY’S ★ ★ Alter recovering from the shock of seeing the elegant spareness of Ceret (the restaurant that previously occupied the space) turned into a Bavarian bad dream. I rallied to enjoy Wiener schnitzel and potato salad at Kuby’s new location downtown in the Brewery. There are innumerable sandwich and sausage options, but whatever else you order, potato pancakes and apple strudel are in order as accom-paniments. To fudge from the lunchtime crowds, the new Kuby’s promises to join the old one (which lias been around since 1961) as a local institution, 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-0004 Lunch Mon-Sat 11 -3: dinner Mon-Thur 5 pm-9 pm Fri & Sat 5 pm-9:30 pm. Closed Sun MC. V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



ACTUELLE ★ ★ On my initial visits, the French/New American food here was Inconsistent. And because the menu is of the continually changing variety, recommendations are hard to pin down. Still, tortellini with wild mushrooms, grilled swordfish with tamarillo relish. and apple tart lor dessert were worth ordering .again. The chilly setting could use candlelight to soften it. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. 855-0440. Mon-Thur 6-10 30. Fri & Sat 6-11 All credit cards Expensive.

CAFE ROYAL ★ ★ ★ ★ Romance may be invaluable, but a romantic dinner r.houldn’1 cost more than a used car. Café Royal’s $34.50 fixed-price dinner, which changes daily, is reasonably priced and. thanks to the lovely setting and skillful service, unreasonably romantic. The run-down on one nights uniformly well-prepared op-tionS an appetizer of a salad with quail breast or an artichoke bottom with lobster ragout and caviar butler sauce; a green salad or red-wine sorbet; an entrée of sliced loin of lamb with wild mushrooms and a shallot ana sage sauce or fillet of John Dory with angel-hair pasta and lemon thyme Cruice; in id a choice of dessert. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6:30-10 30. Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Closed Sun. Jackets and lies required. All credit cards. Expensive.

CAFE ST. TROPEZ ★ ★ The best thing about a recant visit to this new French restaurant on Lower Greenville {where Le Marmiton used to be) was stopping at Shakespeare Books next door before dinner This is not to say the food was bad: with thee*cepiion of broiled salmon far past its prime, il wasn’t. Still, the rest of dinner paté du maison, salad St Tropez. and trout amandine-averaged out to be only unexceptional acceptable 1920Greenville-821-6250- Tue-Thur6pm-11 pm, Fri & Sal 6 pm-1 am; Sun brunch noon-3pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Moderate.

CHEZ GERARD ★★ ★ Now that Calluaud has laid down its life to become a parking lot for the Hard Rock Cafe, it’s a safe bet that former Calluaud regulars will be joining the already healthy crowds at Chez Gérard (which is also a Guy and Martine Calluaud operation) The highlights of my most recent dinner checkup visit were topflight treatments of sautéed lamb chop with parsley and garlic and floating island (poached meringue floating atop vanilla custard). Shrimp rémoulade, cassoulet (a stew of white beans and sausage that Francophiles adore and the less reverent refer to as the Gallic version of beans and weenies), and crème caramel were less distinguished, but Still well within Chez Gerard’s range of dependable quality. 4444 McKinney. 522-6865. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.

THE FRENCH ROOM ★★★ With its cherubs, vaulted ceiling, and trompe l’oeil garden, the rosy-hued French Room is far and away the most baroque-looking restaurant in Dallas. In the five years since its opening, it has had ils culinary ups and downs; happily, however, a recent visit suggested that it is in an up cycle. From salads (green bean and green salad with goat cheese croutons) to entrees (salmon and rack of lamb) to dessert (apple tart), the food was all that one could ask tor. What’s more, the sommelier is both congenial and well-informed; he is as happy to advise customers on a single glass of wine as a rare bottle Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce 742-8200 Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Jackets and ties required- Alt credit cards. Expensive.

THE GRAPE★★★★ The Grapes setting-dark as a candle-lit dungeon, with red-checked tablecloths and touches of vinous kitsch-makes it an ideal hangout for Lower Greenville’s resident Bohemian yuppies. The Grape paraphernalia displayed near the door- including T-shirts and a cookbook-suggests that what we have here is not so much a restaurant as a way of We, Although the Grape still serves the cheese and paté offerings that were its specialty when it opened in 1972, pasta and fish specials are the ticket these days. 2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards Moderate.

L’AMBIANCE ★ ★ ★ Although the renovated gas station setting is unimpressive, the tood was fine on a recent dinner visit. A suave potato-leek soup and watercress salad with bacon, mushrooms, and goat cheese made tor excellent appetizers. Fish has never been a good main-course bet here, so we opted tor lamb chops and duck with the fruit sauce of the day Both were memorably well-prepared For dessert. Moating island with pecan praline and chocolate soufflé cake enlivened by coconut and macadamia nuts served with vanilla sauce were both enchanting variations on what can be boring themes. 2403 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Mon-Sat 6-10 Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. Expensive.

L’ANCESTRAL ★ ★ ★ L/Ancestral has moved from its funky former Lower Greenville location to the considerably slicker Travis Walk, but the food and the feeling are essentially unchanged, and the Vuilleret family is still very much in evidence. Now as before, fish is not the wisest choice here; much better to go with the steak au poivre or the lamb chops with herb butter and peerless pommes frites L’Ancestral’s trademark clafouti dessert-a dense, tender custard with black cherries-is as good as ever, 4514 Travis. 528-1081. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-4; dinner: Mon-Thur5am-10pm, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards Moderate to expensive.

LA TOURAIHE ★ ★ ★ This handsome, casual bistro changed hands some time back As a rule, such changes bode ill, but this is obviously not the case at La Touraine in its current incarnation. A recent lunch visit resulted in a richly sauced crab meat crêpe and a perky pasta salad – two dishes subject to abuse In the wrong hands, and done very nicely here One thing that could change: the service, which cannot be described as attentive. 1701 N Market. 749-0080. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Moderate.

L’ENTRECOTE ★ ★ ★ ★ Alter a long sliding spell, L’Entre-cote has. as the French say. pulled up its socks. Thanks to the efforts of chef Michel Platz, the Loews Anatole’s French restaurant is once again one of the best In the city. Watercress and endive salad with pink grapefruit was an exceptionally refreshing appetizer. Gratin of crawfish tails with ginger was light and satisfying, and loin of lamb with rosemary and shallot coulis was a must (or lamb fans. Finally, dessert- banana beignets with coconut mousse-was a killer. Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Slemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Daily 6-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.

MADAME CHANG ★ ★ ★ ★ This product of gastronomic cross-pollination- specifically, of French and Chinese cuisine- is an attractive, if very formal-feeling, place. Standouts on the menu are the sautéed breast of chicken with pine nuts, red peppers, snow peas, and ginger; grilled lamb chops with creamy mint sauce; and salmon steak and prawns with tomato-shrimp cream sauce. The Crescent. 2200 Cedar Springs. 871-3838. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11; bar open daily 11 am-1 am. MC. V, AE. Expensive.

MR. PEPPE ★ ★ ★ Mr, Peppe is not so much a restaurant as it is a mindset. There exists a subset of monied, established Dallasites for whom fine dining begins and ends with Mr. Peppe. While the rest of us frantically trendy parvenus chase around from new hot spot to newer hoi spot, the Mr. Peppe-ites are content to eat things like pepper steak and veal with lemon butler week in and week out, 5617 WLovers Lane. 352-5976 Mon-Sat 6-10 All credit cards Moderate.

OLD WARSAW ★ ★ ★ Old Warsaw, the granddaddy-make that grand-père-of big-deal dining in Dallas, hasn’t apppeared in D’s listings for a while because we’ve been wailing to revisit it until after it moves. The fabled impending move-to LTV Center, m March, when last we heard – is beginning to seem like the joke about Franco’s death on “Saturday Night Live,” so watch this space. 2610 Maple. 528-0032 Sun-Thur 6-10, Fr\& Sat 6-10:30. All credit cards. Very expensive.

THE RIVIERA ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ | have attended Grateful Dead concerts that were quieter than the Riviera on a Saturday night, but minor hearing loss is a small price to pay for first-rate food in a charming setting. A green salad was nicely set off by sherry vinaigrette, and came with a delectable goat cheese crouton. Sun-dried tomato and smoked bell pepper soup was satisfying, if heavy on the bacon Norwegian salmon and sea scallops steamed with white wine and served with a light rosemary sauce was one of the best treatments of salmon I’ve ever tasted And duck breast with intensely flavored lavender and honey sauce was worthwhile, too For dessert the creditable, very buttery-tasting Grand Marnier crème brulée was outshone by the ethereally light apple tart with almond cream and caramel sauce 7709 Inwood 35)0094. Sun-Thur 6:30 pm-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.

ST, MARTIN’S ★★ ★ This is a great place to bring your squeeze or your squeeze-to-be as long as neither of you demands consistently first-rate food. With its pretty blue walls and flickering candlelight. St Martin’s is a pleasant place to drink wine and think romantic thoughts. The food was a mixed bag on my last visit: flabby bread, salads that resembled taco filling, passable roast duck with peach sauce, praiseworthy swordfish with capers and mushrooms, sensually dense chocolate satin pie, and unpleasantly eggy crème caramel. 3020 Greenville. 826-0940. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5-11. Fri & Sat 5 pm-1 am. Sun brunch 11-3. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.

THREE VIKINGS ★★ ★ Three Vikings, which had been a fixture on Lower Greenville, packed up and disappeared some months back. Now it has resurfaced in Nie tiny space previously occupied by Da Piccolo and Red Moon Café on Cole Avenue. The look of the place is very light, with lots of pale blue and bleached pine. There’s nothing light about the food, though-which is good or bad, depending on how you feel about Scandinavian/Continental food For my part, 1 am immoderately fond of the Swedish meatballs, moderately fond of the Finnish shrimp chowder, and not fond at all of the heavy-on-the-béarnaise veal Oscar. 4537 Cole. 559-0987. Lunch Tue-Fri 11.30- 2. dinner Tue-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. Moderate.



GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPE



BELVEDERE★★ Perfectly tender Wiener schnitzel is what keeps me coming back to Belvedere, a Swiss/Austrian restaurant that adjoins the CrestPark Hotel, a residential hotel. Alas, this time around the rehsteak Hubertus, a Montana venison preparation that I had fond memories of from past dinners, was dry and uninteresting I had to console myself with an extra order of spaetzle (fat. freshly made dumplings). Salads, appetizers, and desserts, while not egregious, have never been advisable here unless you’re extremely hungry. The setting, with its warm brick and cream color scheme, is pleasant and unimposing, as is the service. CrestPark Hotel. 4242 Lerno Alto. 528-6510. Lunch Tue-Sat 11:30-2: dinner Tue-Sat 6-10:30. Sun 6-9; Sun brunch 11-2:30. Closed Mon. All credit cards. Expensive.

BOHEMIA ★ ★ ★ ★ Have you heard the one about Czech food? A week later and you’re hungry again. At Bohemia. the attraction is sturdy Eastern European food-like Wiener schnitzel, pork roast, and bread dumplings- served in delicately charming surroundings (lace curtains, tulip lamps Viennese waltzes). Two bonuses; the by-the-glass wines are well chosen, and service is efficient and unobtrusive. With one notable exception {being under a quilt with your sweetie), there is no better place than Bohemia to be on a nippy day. 2810 N Henderson 826-6209 Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 530-10:30 pm Closed Mon. All credit cards. Moderate.

CAFE KASHTAN ★ ★ ★ A recent dinner visit here was relatively disappointing, but that was mostly because my party was collectively starving and service was excruciatingly slow. However, it also didn’t help that kulebiaka. that utterly satisfying mélange of chicken, rice, and mushrooms baked in a pastry shell-wasn’t on the dinner menu. Still, the salanka. an intensely flavored broth with bits of beef, sausage, and vegetables accompanied by pirozki, a meal-filled roll, the chicken Kiev, the veal Soblianka with mushroom sauce, and the almond cake with raspberry sauce were appeasingly excellent. 5365 Spring Valley Rd at Montfort. 991-9550. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.

ROLFS ★★ ★ Potato pancakes are not easy to come by in Dallas But come the dead of winter, nothing soothes the soul on a raw, sub-Arctic day like an order of potato pancakes with applesauce and sour cream. |{ only, then, for the supremely comforting potato pancakes, Rolf’s would earn my loyalty. Happily, there are other things to recommend Rolf’s: the delicate Wiener schnitzel and the decidedly indelicate roasted pork shank, which is a major hunk o’ meat Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy. Suite 117. 696-1933 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dmnerSun-Thur5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11 All credit cards Expensive.



INDIAN



AKBAR ★★★★ Old India hands will want to thoroughly explore the byways of this new restaurant’s menus That’s plural – there are two of them, the regular menu and the snack bar menu. Although the regular menu is praiseworthy, it is Akbar’s snack bar that conclusively sets it apart from its peers. Snack-bar highlights include aloo tikki, grilled potato cutlets with curried chickpeas. samosa. tender turnovers stuffed with herbed potatoes and peas; and malai kofta. curry, cheese and vegetable dumplings in a cream and almond sauce. 2115 Promenade Center at Coit S Belt Line roads. 235-0260 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 530-10:30 Sat&Sun brunch 11:30-2:30 MC, V, AE. Inexpensive.

CURRY IN, CURRY OUT ★ ★ ★ ★ Love the name. Also love the food and the prices. This charming little family-run establishment may be somewhat spartan in appearance, but it is immaculate, and the food that emerges from the kitchen is well worth a trip to Garland, even if you don’t live nearby One more incentive: prices are shockingly low If you’re serious about Indian food, Curry In. Curry Out is required eating. As the name suggests, meals may be eaten in or earned out. Northwest Crossing Shopping Center. 1250 Northwest Highway. 681-0087 Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm. Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat noon-10 pm, Sun noon-3 pm Nocredit cards. Inexpensive.

INDIA PALACE ★★ ★ I’ve given up on keeping track of the shifting, intricate lineage of who owns which local Indian restaurants, but it doesn’t matter, because they’re all quite good at the moment. India Palace is no exception to this general rule of excellence. Whether you order à la carte or opt for the weekend buffet brunch, you’ll be happy with the food here. India Palace’s exceptionally thoughtful service is a bonus. 13360 Preston. 392-0190. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Sat & Sun 11.30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards Moderate.

KEBAB ’N’ KURRY ★★ ★ A visit to the Walnut Hill K ’n’ K to check out the $7.95 weekend brunch was rewarding Although a few items (mushy strawberry and banana fruit salad, fishy fish curry) didn’t send me. plenty of choices did, including succulent tandoori chicken, fragrant kashmiri pillau (rice with peas, currants, almonds, and cashews); savory palak panir (spmach cooked with homemade cheese); flavorful lamb kofta (meatballs in a mild curry sauce); and tender naan (flat bread) Dessert was a lesson in the outer limits of sweetness – if there is anything on the planet sweeter than gulab jamun (pastry tails in cardamom-flavored syrup), I hope never to taste It, 2620 Walnut Hill Ln. 350-6466 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 530-10 30; brunch Sat & Sun 11:30-2.30 MC. V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.

KEBBAB ’N’ KURRY ★ ★ ★ I suspect Iha! part of Kebab ’n’ Kurry’s secret lies in the comparatively limited menu There are really only a lew delights of North Indian cuisine offered, but they are done extremely weft, from the chicKen norma (rich, creamy, and mild) Lo Iha shrimp in a tomatoey curry sauce. Paradoxically, you can find the rarest treasures here at the weekend lunch. buffets. They offer such unusual delicacies as curried fresh black-eyed peas for the ridiculously low price of $6.95 lot all you can eat, including a dessert like the lovely, barely sweet rice pudding, 401 N Central Expwy. Suite300. Richardson, 231-5556 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. dinner Sun-Thur 5 30-10. Fri & Sat 5 30-1030. brunch Set & Sun 11:30-230 AM credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.

TANJORE ★★ Tanjore is an unprepossessing-looking place, and the weekday fare-including a lunch buffet – ranges from above-average to run-of-the-mill. it is on weekends when Tanjore becomes particularly interesting to Indian food connoisseurs. That is when south Indian vegetarian fare is served: savory little fried doughnuts, rice cakes (called idli), curried lentils, and fresh coconut chutney The extremely satisfying masaia dosa – a crisped crêpe wrapped around a filling of curried potatoes- is worth a trip in itself. Preston-wood Creek Shopping Center. 5409 Bell Line Rd. 960-0070 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30; dinner daily 6 10: brunch Sat & Sun 11:30-245 Alt credit cards Inexpensive to modetale.



ITALIAN



ADRIANO’S ★ ★ Adriano’s, which seemed to be on the cutting edge of New Wave Italian dining when it opened, is looking a bit timeworn these days The setting is still sunny and high-tech m nature, but the walls could use a paint pp. Trie trademark pizzas., however, have maintained their appeal – particularly the pancet-ta version with fresh tomatoes and mushrooms. Pasta is available, too. and it’s not bad. but you can do better elsewhere. The Quadrangle 2800 Routh Suriel 70 871-2262. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-midnight. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.

ALESSIO’S ★ ★ ★ ★ If you’re not happy with your meal at Alessio’s. it will only be because you nave tailed to apprise the ever-watchful Alessio Franceschetti of any problems. Happily, on a recent visit, there were no problems to report. Crab cannelloni, an appetizer of the day. was estimable enough to warrant on-the-menu status. Shrimp provencal, with mushrooms and tomatoes, was quite good, if not as seductive. The subtly dressed romaine lettuce salad that accompanied entrées was simple perfection. Linguine with shrimp and scallops in a delicately spicy tomato sauce was agreeable, though not as meritorious as the perfectly breaded veal parmigiana accompanied by buttered, parslied mostaccioli. 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585 Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Sun & Mon 6-10 pm MC. V. AE. Moderate to expensive.

CAPE ITALIA ★★ Cale Italia is informal, and prices are low. which makes one inclined to overlook such minor glitches as flabby garlic bread and flat San Pellegrino water. I tried entrées of an on-the-money combination of cannelloni and manicotti and a very meaty yet unheavy lassagna. Barely sweat flan with a drift of lightly whipped cream and killer-Strength espresso made for a nice finish. 5000 Maple. 521-0700 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-H Closed Sun MC. V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.

CAMPISI’S EGYPTIAN RESTAURANT ★ Campisi’s belongs more in the annals of Dallas folklore than on the list of the city’s senous Italian restaurants The food isn’t exactly bad. but it has very little to do with Italian food as we know it in other eating establinhments. However, lor those who grew up on the stuff – and their number is legion, to judge from the ubiquitous line outside the door-nothing else will do. 5610 Mockingbird 826-0355. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. No credit cards Moderate

ClAO ★ ★ New Wave pizza may be the featured attraction at Ciao, and they are well and good, but the smart money is on the Calzone, a sort of pizza turnover filled with fresh riccotta, Italian sausage, and herbs One of these and a perfectly simple green safad. and you won’t be in the market for dessert. 3921-8 Cedar Springs 521-0110 Mon-Sat 11:30 am- midnight, Sun 3 pm-midnight MC. V.AE. Inexpensive.

LA TOSCA ★ ★ ★ This chic, minimalist restaurant was designed by the laie Perry Bentley, and it still looks as fresh in 1987 as it did when it opened in 1981. The food has also worn well, especially the state-of-the-art tortellini and veal scallopine with lemon sauce 7713 Inwood. 352-8373 Sun & Tue-Thur 6 pm-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.

MOMO’S ★ ★ ★ Momo’s is small, plain, and disorganized-none of which mailers to devotees of ils pastas and pizzas. At lunch, mostly pizzas-including a wonderfully forceful-tasting one of tomato, mozzarella, and gorgonzola – are available. Al dinner, the menu is more extensive, (Pasta, such as tortelli di spinaci, is a much better idea than veal, which can be dauntingly chewy.) You can have any wine you wan! at Momo’s as long as you bring it yourself 9191 Forest Lane. 234-6800 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 pm, dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30 pm, Fri 6:11 pm. Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-9 pm. MC, V. Moderate.

NERO’S ITALIAN ★★★ The food is good enough here, but il isn’t great, and it certainly doesn’t come cheap. What, then, accounts for the two-hour waits on weekends’? I suspect it’s that ol’ debbil ambience. Nero’s is made to order for dates or get-reacquainted-with-your-spouse sessions, at least if your date or spouse is a stylish, ironic character. (Diana Vreeland and Catholic-school veterans should feel particularly at home here because of the red walls and the Michael the Archangel lamps.) There is an extensive menu of pasta, veal, and seafood , but the two things to concentrate on are the Italian wine-(he selection is great, and the staff well-informed – and the pizza, which comes m both traditional and New Wave varieties, 2104 Greenville. 826-6376. Mon-Thur 6-11 pm. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Moderate.

PIZZERIA UNO ★ ★ ★ When the place is packed-which is any time near lunch or dinner-Job-like patience is required of customers. However, to |Udge from the mobs willing to traverse the far end of Belt Line and suffer the service, serious pizza-seekers care about what’s on the plate, not how long it takes to get there They may have a point: these are terrific buttery-crusted Chicago-style pan pizzas. The menu warns “Be careful when you order Each Uno pizza has about twice the food content as the pizzas you are probably accustomed to.” The menu is right. and the reason is the vertical quantity of ingredients, not the diameter A regular pizza, which the menu recommends for two, looks smallish when it arrives, but only two would-be wart hogs could finish it in one sitting. 4002 Belt Une. Addison. 991-8181 Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight. Sun noon-10 MC. V. AE. Moderate.

PUCCI ★ This attractive restaurant seemed so promising that I delayed reviewing it after a couple of disastrous early visits However, months have passed, and the food is still extremely uneven at best. On different occasions, linguine with Bolognese sauce has been scorched, lobster and crab pizza with cream sauce has been a veritable swampland of sogginess, and seafood linguine has been distressingly funky-tasting. 4514 Travis, Suite 133 521-7450. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. MC V. AE. Moderate.

RISTORANTE SAVINO ★ ★ ★ Savino does wen on both the congeniality and the food front, A recent visit was notable for warm service and commendable versions of spaghetti Carbonara, feltuccine with gorgonzola and walnuts, and Vitello tonnato, that refreshing combination of veal and (una sauce. 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.

311 LOMBARDT’S ★ ★ ★ ★ What is the Italian translation of “good karma? Our waiter didn’t know, but 311 Lombar-di’s has achieved it. Here, surrounded by the glow created by creamy apricot walls, happy hordes of downtown workers get what may well be the best Hattan load in town at reasonable price*.. No pasTa was visible in the pasta and bean soup, but it was a hearty, herb-enlivened delight anyway A pizza with leeks, pancetta. goat cheese, and mushrooms could have held Us own against New York’s best The next stop on the menu was good enough \o be requited eating for potato-philes: potato gnocchi with two sauces (tomato and irresistible gorgonzola). A tender, thin veal cutlet topped with arugula and diced tomatoes was simply immense Dessert of raspberry ice cream and respectable espresso rounded oit a repast thai was pure pleasure from start to finish, 311 Markel. 747-0322. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat 5 pm-1 am. Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards Moderate.



JAPANESE/KOREAN



KOBE STEAKS ★★ Kobe takes literally the “dining asentertainment’ concept. Here, your dinner-sliced, diced, and cooked on a hibachi grill – is the show, and your fellow diners are pari of the deal, loo. The basic ingredients- steak and shrimp are the most popular options-are of good quality and the whole experience has a certain retro charm, which is perversely appealing to jaded hipsters. Quorum Plaza. Belt Line at Dallas Parkway. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.

MR. SUSHI ★★★★ it’s all raw fish to me. but a number ofmy friends are dedicated stokers of sushi, and the most serious of them swears by Mr. Sushi My friend was moved by the “sushi B” dinner- tuna, white meat fish yellowtail jumbo clam, shrimp salmon, smelt egg. salmon egg, cooked egg. and tuna roll- and I was appeased by the sautéed soft-shell crab and perfect shrimp tempura. The Quorum, 4860 Belt Line. Addison. 385-0168. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-1030 Fri & Sat 530-11. Sun 5-30-10 All credit cards. Moderate.

SHOGUN ★ ★ ★ Shogun serves commendable versions of the standards of Japanese cuisine – lightly battered tempura, juicy teriyaki chicken and fresh-tasting sushi (commonly referred to as “bait” by non-aficionados) – in a pleasingly serene -atmosphere. The only element of the plentiful, reasonably priced lunch that took me aback was the unidentified soup. For all I know, it was superb by the standards of the East but it resembled primordial ooze from my Occidental viewport. The . small restaurant is exceptionally pleasant, thanks to Ute 1 quietly efficient service. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-1:45; dinner Mon-Thur & 10-30. Fri-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards Moderate.

ROYAL TOKYO ★ ★ Decisions, decisions, Al Hoyal Tokyothey start before you look at the menu. You can sit at thesushi bar, in the hibachi room, or in the tatami room (thechoice for optimal conversation) Last time around. fared better with the combination sushi dinner than the i tried tempura, which could have ber>n lighter, 7525 Greenville. 368-3304. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-1030. Tue-Thur 5:30-11. Fri & Sat 1 5:30-11 30: Sun buffet 11:30-230 All credit cards Moderate to expensive.

SUSHI ON MCKINNEY ★ ★ ★ as a rule, the sushi is a batterbet than the cooked things at this sell-styled “friendly post-modern sushi bar ” The atmosphere is lively to the point of frenetiosm. which is either a refreshing or a disturbing Changs from the-traditionally quiet, subdued atmosphere of local Japanese restaurants. 4500 McKinney 52!-0969. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards Moderate



LUNCH



CITY MARKET ★ ★ ★ ★ City Markel Has acquired a loyal following of downtown habitués hungry for fresh, imaginative soups, salads, sandwiches, and desserts. However, in the past the pleasures of this light, airy, upscale cafeteria were unpredictable. If, for instance, you loved the mangold mint chicken salad, it might be weeks before you and it were on the premises on the same day. Now, with the advent of menus printed every week, City Market regulars can predict with assurance when it will be possible to eat pasta salad with Indonesian peanut sauce or marinated beef salad with multi-colored bell peppers. Whatever else you get, the light, souffle-like apricot-raisin bread pudding should not be missed. 2001 TV Center, 200J Ross at Harwood. 979-2696. Mon-Fri 7 am-4.30 pm MC. V. Inexpensive.

PACIFIC EXPRESS ★ ★ ★ ★ Pacific Express, a chic eighty-eight-seat cafeteria, makes the hasty downtown lunch into an art form. I happen to be obsessed with the tuna salad with toasted almonds, grapes, and blue cheese in tarragon mayonnaise, but the smoked chicken salad with toasted walnuts and shallot vermouth mayonnaise has ils devotees, loo. Other choices include pasta salad, wild rice salad, and several sandwiches Pacific Place Bldg. 1910 Elm. Suite 103. 969-7447 Mon-Fri 11 am-2pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted Inexpensive.

THEO’S DINER ★ ★ ★ Although the lyrics don’t specify Theos by name,I suspect that Theo’s grilled ham and cheese sandwich is what Janet Jackson has in mind when she makes musical reference to nasty food in “Nasty Boys ” With its garlic-buttered Texas toast this is the ultimate grilled-cheese thrill As for the fries, some people think they’re the best in Dallas. Others disagree: they think they’re the best on the planet. Then there is the ambience, which could hardly be more intimate -there are just nine seals around the counter. One more attraction; the proprietor’s plot summaries of “All My Children.” 111 S Hall St. 741-9130. Mon-Fri 7 am-4pm, Sat 8 am-3 am No credit cards. Inexpensive.



MEXICAN



ANTONIO’S ★★★ Although one has to order with care to assure hitting the highlights Antonio’s is worth a trip for anyone serious about Mexican food Recommended: nachos, which are made with first-class ingredients (black beans, while cheese, fresh-tasting guacamole, jalapenos, and real, runny sour cream), rich-tasting black bean soup shrimp with a subtly nutty pumpkin-seed sauce, coconut flan, and merengue (whipped cream or chocolate icecream sandwiched between two layers of egg-white pastry) 14849 Inwood (south of Bell Une), Addison 490-9557 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-4 pm; dinner Mon-Thur 4 pm-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11:30 pm. All credit cards Moderate

BLUE GOOSE ★ ★ When Big Hungry Boys want to eat Tex-Mex, the Blue Goose is where they head The sheer quantity of food that appears at the table is enough to make those of normal appetite gasp with disbelief. Quantity, however, is not the end of the story here The quality is surprisingly high, in light of the low prices. The chicken fajrtas are the best in town, and the beef fajitas are more than respectable. The flour tortillas that accompany both are admirably thin and fresh. The standard Tex Max is standard, with the exception of great rice and poor guacamole. 2905 Greenville. 823-3339 Mon-Fri 11 am-2 30 pm & 5:30-11 pm. Sat & Sun 11-11 All credit cards. Inexpensive.

CAFE CANCUN ★ ★ ★ Café Cancun was a Mexican food trailblazer in Dallas, one of the first to offer black beans and white cheese as an alternative to pintos and day-glow Cheddar. In recent years, however, quality control was a problem, and many Café Cancun fans lost taith. Brethren, it is lime to rejoin the fold: on a recent visit, everything – from the warm, fresh tostadas to the enchiladas verdes with chicken to the luscious coconut ice cream-was very good. 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011: Caruth Plaza. Park Lane at Central Expwy. 369-3712 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm at Lomo Alto location. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun noon-10 pm at Caruth Plaza location. All credit cards. Moderate.

CANTUA LAREDO ★★★★A belief shared by many Mexican food enthusiasts hereabouts is that great Mex can only be found in grungy, lime-worn establishments located In the vicinity of Maple Avenue. However, holding to this belief would mean missing out on Can-tina Laredo, which is situated in a clean, new building in-yes-Adc&son. Standard Tex-Mex combinations are available hero, and they’re quite good, but the com-ida casera-home-slyle food-is where the smart money is. Standouts include the tacos al pastor filled with marinated pork, cabrito (baby goat to you, gringo), mesquite-grilled shrimp with garlic butter, and red snapper with lime butter. 4546 Belt Une, Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat Ham-midnight All credit cards. Moderate N

CASA ROSA ★★★ This has long been a preppy hangoutsupreme, and in this instance those wet!scrubbed WASPs in Ralph Lauren attire are on to something. From chili con queso to botanas especiales (bean, chicken, and beef nachos: marinated beef strips; and flautitas with sour cream and guacamole) to the Puerto Vallartta. combination (beef taco, enchilada with chili con came, chicken enchilada with sour cream sauce, and Spanish rice) to praline cheesecake for dessert, everything (except for the underdone, too-tomatoey Spanish nee) was well-prepared, if not in the forefront of culinary innovation. Inwood Village, Inwood at Lovers Lane, Suite 165. 350-5227. Mon-Thur 11 am-3 pm & 5-10 pm. Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat 11 am-11 pm. Sun 11 am-10 pm All credit cards Moderate

CHIMI’S★★ Dallas isn’t exactly lacking tor Mexican restaurants with food in the decant-to-noteworthy range and a cheerful, airy setting So, while Chimi’s so-called Sonoran cuisine, which tastes a whole lot like regular Tex-Mex to me, is nothing revolutionary. it is cause for good cheer among Bryan Place’s urban pioneers. Brannon Building. Bryan & Peak, 826-0541. Sun-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. All credit cards Inexpensive

CHITO’S ★ ★ ★ A New Yorker l know loves Mexican lood more than life itself. Chile’s on Maple IS where I took her on her last stop in Dallas, and she found its funky setting (featuring tattered orange booths, window-unit air condmon,ng, and lime green and acid yellow walls) and low prices (guacamole has reached $7 in one Manhattan Mexican restaurant) inordinately satisfying. The food at Chito’s-especially the bean, cheese, and guacamole quesadillas-is good enough to please even native Dallasites who are accustomed to the Tex-Mex way of life. 4447 Maple, 522-9166; 3747 Wailful Hill, 351-9554. Sun-Thur9 am-9pm. Fri & Sat 9 am-3 am. Closed Wed, at Maple location; Daily 10-10 at Walnut Hill location. MC, V. Inexpensive

GARCIA’S CARIBBEAN GRILL ★ ★ What is tins world comingto? We’ve had Tex-Mex, Mex-Mex, tropical-Mex. and now, from Garcia’s. fish-Mex-their term, I swear it. Your reviewer, for one has not been waiting breathlessly for catfish enchiladas, but Garcia’s peerless chili con queso-composed of white cheese and spinach, unlikely as it may seem – is alone worth a visit. Plaza at Bachman Creek. 3830 Northwest Hwy. 358-2664. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-midnight. Fri 11:30 am-1 am. Sat noon-1 am. Sun noon-11 pm. As credit cards Inexpensive to moderate.

GENARO’S ★ ★ ★ With its tropical art-deco look, Genaro’s is the prettiest place in town for marganta consumption. Happily, for the most part the food matches the margaritas. Enchiladas Genaro, tilled with snapper and crab meat, were extremely gratifying. And even it chicken with jalapeno and tomatillo cream sauce topped with pumpkin seeds arrived sans pumpkin seeds, the accompanying black beans and pea-studded nee were pleasing, anyway. And the coconut ice cream was lushly satisfying. as always. 5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Mon-Thur 11 am- 10:30pm. Fri-Sun 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.

GONZALES ★ ★ Gonzales is such a place. Here, for very little money, one can have a beer and hunker down in the dark wood-grain booths and achieve low-budget Tex-Mex-style satori. This is not to say that there aren’t good things to eat available at Gonzales. There definitely are. but one needs to know the topography pi the menu to find them, They are most notably the numerous varieties of burritos made with fat, tender flour tortillas: the bean and cheese and the potato and egg are two good choices (or those in search of hangover cures that do not require as much machismo to ingest as menudo does. The drive-through window provides a good, last option for on-the-run diners. 4333 Maple. 528-2960. Daily 7 am-9 pm. All credit cards. Inexpensive

LA BOTICA ★ ★ The mishmash of Dallasites who have found La Botica (it’s nearly hidden on Haskell Avenue about a mile east of Contrai) must like it for the same reasons I do: it’s casual, fairly quiet, and steeped in family-run friendliness. The food- Mexican staples with a hefty addition of beef dishes- is fine but rarely exciting. Particularly good; the tangy enchiladas verdes, the simple tacos, and the spicy chicken soup. My otherwise happy visits met with two disappointments: the ho-hum and smallish carne asada and La Botica’s tendency to be out of things I want to order 1900 N Haskell. 824-2005. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun, Alt credit cards, Moderate.

MIA’S ★ ★ ★ For to these many years. I have been hearing about the chile rellenos at Mias And for to these many years. I have been missing out on the chile rellenos at Mia’s. I would remember that they were available only on Tuesday, but forget they were available only at dinner on Tuesday, I would remember that they were available only at dinner on Tuesday, but they would be sold out. Recently, thanks to a kind-hearted waitress who let me have her pre-reserved relleno. I finally tasted the elusive entrée, stuffed with ground beef, potato, and raisins, and can report that the result was worth the wait. The rest of Mias menu is above-average, but it’s the relleno-and the warm service-that make the place worthy of cult status. 4418Lemmon 526-1020 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2;dinner Mon-Fn5-10. Sat 11 am-10 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.

MARIO & ALBERTO ★★★ The standards of Mario Leafs second restaurant dont seem to have suffered with the opening of a third one-this popular North Dallas spot seemed as fine (and as busy) as ever. Among the mam courses, the filete de la casa (tenderloin strongly flavored with garlic, accompanied by lightly fried potato slices) remains a favorite Those who crave fa-jitas will find a relatively restrained version here-a manageably modest serving, and no sizzling fireworks The Tex-Mex plates continue to run way behind the specialties in excellence Coconut or cinnamon ice cream makes a refreshing dessert. Preston Valley Shopping Center. LBJ Frwy at Preston. Suite 425 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am 10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC, V, AE. Moderate.

MARIO’S CHIQUITA ★ ★ ★ This Piano outpost of Mario Leafs mini-empire is- surprise, surprise -very much like his other two restaurants, from the odd pastel color scheme, with its emphasis on skating- rink pink, to the average Tex-Mex offerings to the superior Mexico City-style specialties. Unlike the original Chiquita, Mario’s Chiquita is big enough that getting seated immediately is rarely a problem, 221 W Parker, Suite 400. Piano. 423-2977. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sot 11-11. Closed Sun MC. V. AE. Moderate.

RAPHAEL’S ★ ★ Of the three Raphael locations. I like the looks at Belt Line and the food at Greenville best. Whichever branch you choose, the vegetarian burrttos, an assorted trio, are good enough to earn respect from the most hidebound carnivore 3701 McKinney. 521-9640; 6782 Greenville. 692 8431.4900 Beit Line. 991-3610. Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30-3; dinner 5- 10:30, Sat noon-10:30 at McKinney location. Mon-Fri 11:30-3 & 5-10. Sa! noon-10. Sun 6-10 at Greenville location. Mon Thur 11:30-3&5:30 W. Fri 11:30-3 & 5:30-11. Sat noon-10, Sun 6-10 at Belt Line location N. All credit cards. Moderate.

RlCARDO’E ★ ★ ★ This latest in the area’s supply of “Miami Vice”-style Mexican restaurants offering (pretty pastel settings and tropically influenced food) proves thai there is gastronomic civilization even as one travels so far north as to sight the Oklahoma border, 17610 Midway a! Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-9 pm. Ail credit cards. Moderate.

MIDDLE EASTERN

MR. SHISHKABAB ★ ★ The namesake kabab a shes-lamb, beet, chicken, or shrimp skewered and broiled with mushrooms, onions, tomato, and green pepper -are fine here, but the vegetarian options are where the real culinary excitement is The smart money is on hummus (a dip of pureed chickpeas – also known as garoanzo beans -served with pita bread), thefalafel sandwich (fried balls of mashed, seasoned chickpeas with lettuce and sesame sauce m pita bread, described on the menu as “Elizabeth Taylor’s favorite”) and lemony tabouleh salad (marinated cracked wheat with parsley and tomato), 9454 Maish Lane, just north of Northwest Highway. 360-9314 Lunch daily 11:30*3; dinner 5:30-10:30 MC. V. DC. C8 Moderate.



NATURAL



BLUEBONNET CAFE ★ ★ ★ if you are a yuppie of a certain age here is where to the tune of James Taylor,you’relikely to run into friends, acquaintances, ortie ex-spouses of same, Bluebonnet Cafe is part of Bluebonnet Natural Foods Grocery, and as the name of the establishment indicates, the food tends toward the healthful. Happily however, Bluebonnet doesn’t take a doctrnaire stand. Burgers, wine, and coffes-three controlled substances al hard-line health establishments-are allowed here. Check out the Strawberry-banana-pa pa y a smoothie and the black bean nachos with white cheese and guacamole. 2218 Greenville. 828-0052. Mon-Fri 11 am-9:45 pm, Sa! & Sun 9 am-9’45 pm. MC, V, AB. Inexpensive.



SEAFOOD



ATLANTIC CAFE ★★★ The selling was as lovely as ever, and the service was fine. but. except for the sourdough bread, the food on a recent vis.1 to Atlantic Cafe was disappointing. Sautéed soie was mushy, roast duck was stringy, and my spirits were lowered considerably as a result, I’m not ready, on the basis of one visit, to confirm the rumors that have been circulating about the decline of Aflame Cafe but the situation bears momtor-ing. 4546 McKinney al Knox. 559-4441, Lunch Mon-Fri 11 2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 ; Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Expensive

AW SHUCKS ★ ★ Although the fried thangs’-oystersand shrimp-that are the featured attraction al this relaxed restaurant are splendid, one does tend to fee) in need of a shower after eating at Aw Shucks. But if you can handle the inherent grease factor involved in dining at an establishment fitted out with a battery of deep-tat fryers, Aw Shucks is a worthwhile destination. One exception to the rule of qualify here Is the fat French fries, which have hardly any flavor. 3601 Greenville. 821 -9449:4535 Maple. 522-4498, Village at Bachman Lake. 3701 W Northwest Hwy Suite3W. 350-9777. Mon- Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-10 pm at Nothwest Hwy location; Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Frie Sat Ham -11:45, Sun 11 am-10 pm at Maple and Greenville locations. No credit cards. Inexpensive.

BAY STREET ★ ★ ★ Bay Street has made some efforts toward climbing aboard the Cajun bandwagon with such dishes as Cajun popcorn (fried crawfish tails), gumbo, and crawfish étouffée SMI. these Cajun upstarts, while respectably prepared, ate outshone by the non-Cajun seafood choioes like a simple charbroiled swordfish, which was impeccably fresh and juicy on a recent visit. (And if you are optimistic enough to order swordfish on a regular basis you know how rare it is when the meaty fish does not emerge with the texture of fish jerky,) Bay Sliest does well with bread and dessert, but falls down in I he salad department because of heavy use of tasteless iceberg lettuce and the presence of weird strips of what appears to be fried dough. Bay Streets service is young and mes hard, and the selling is a handsome. hangar-like space. 5348 Belt Line, Addison 934-8502 Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri&Sat 11-11 All credit cards Moderate.

CAFé PACIFIC ★★★★★ There are a tot of first-rate waiters working in Dallas, but Don at Café Pacific has to be in the very top rank. Even if the food hadn’t been as close to perfection as mere mortals can approach, his courtly but never pretentious manner and ability to be there exactly when you need him would still have made a recent lunch at Café Pacific a pleasure All the same, Chinese chicken salad and a daily special of red snapper w

Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 526-1170 Lunch Mon-Sat 11.30-230, Sun 10:30-2.30. dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Expensive

GULF COAST OYSTER COMPANY ★ ★ ★ This casual little restaurant with a misleading name-oysters aren’t the only locus of attention, and the place has a Greek, not a Gulf Coast, accent-takes its seafood seriously. A meal here starts with pita bread and Greek dips and segues to such main courses as broiled trout (which could hardly be simpler-or better) or broiled shrimp with rice. Corner Shopping Center, 804 1 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11. Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE Moderate.

NEWPORT’S ★★★★ When Newport’s hits, as it did on an order of trout amandine on my last visit, it’s as good as any seafood restaurant m town Unfortunately, on this same visit, swordfish kebabs were below par. However, such instances are anomalies in my experience. Which is a good thing, because unlike its competitors for serious seafood-Atlantic Cafe and Café Pacific – Newport’s can’t rely on a gorgeous setting (the vast, woody setting is merely inoffensive) or polished service (the waiter was bungling) 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-0220. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-230: dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-I1. All credit cards. Expensive

RUSTY PELICAN ★ ★ ★ You can’t judge a restaurant by its decor-or its nomenclature, either, at least not in the case of the Rusty Pelican. Given the corny name and lime-warped (from somewhere in the mid-Seventies) heavy-on-the-wood-and-earth-tones look of the place, my expectations of the Rusty Pelican were somewhere between zip and zero. To my happy surprise, two of four things ordered-shnmp cocktail and trout amandine – were excellent, and the other two- shelled Dungeness crab and mahi-mahi breaded with hazelnuts-were more than edible, it less than electrifying 14655 Dallas Pkwy, Addison. 980-8950. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:15-2: dinner Mon-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 4:30-11 pm. Sun 4:30-10 pm. Alt credit cards Expensive.



SOUTHERN



BUBBA’S ★ ★ Forget the catfish, forget the chicken-fried steak, forget the vegetables (especially the amazingly Tasteless mashed potatoes). All of these things are beside the point Al Bubba’s you will be wanting the fried chicken, a high-rise yeast roll or two, and the fruit cobbler. Order this sacred trinity of Southern food, and you will be rewarded with a matchless high-cholesterol, high-carbohydrate repast. You could drive through at Bubbs’s and take your order home. Out that would deprive you of hanging out in the lipstick-red booths that punctuate the black-and-white Peco decor. 6617 Hillcrest 373-6527. Daily 6:30 am-10 pm. No credit cards, personal checks accepted Inexpensive

CELEBRATION ★★★ My friend suggested that we should have an argument at dinner to make Celebration authentically family-style. Even if you can’t manage to stage a family feud. Celebration is likely to live up to its billing. The simple concept-Southern fare, with salad, rolls, muffins, vegetables, and most entrées m all-you-can-eat quantities- packs them in every night of the week The delectable, if oversweetened, little biscuits and muffins and the immense wooden bowl filled with green salad would be enough tor those of normal appetite. Still, most patrons press on to such entrées as pot roast (Mom never did better) or chic^en-tned steak (Mom did much better) and vegetables (broccoli, squash, and mashed potatoes on our visit) For dessert, peach coPbler was pleasingly doughy and cinnamon-scented. Celebration’s rustic, woody setting is comfortable, and service is pleasant and efficient. 4503 W Lovers Lane 351-5681. Lunch daily 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-1’O.FriS Sal 5-11, Sun 11 am-10 pm All credit cards Moderate

CRESCENT ClTY ★★ Crescent City serves the best muf-faletta sandwich in the area, it may well be the only muf-faletta sandwich in the area, but this is not to detract from (he accomplishment. Crescent City’s version consists of a round loaf of chewy, sesame seed-topped bread filled with ham, salami, three kinds of cheeses, and a mixture of marinated, chopped olives and vegetables. There are other things on the menu-including laudable oyster and shrimp poor boy sandwiches and eminently skippable French bread pizzas-but the muffaletta is the reason to make the trek. The beignets and cafe au lait, while reasonably good, are no rivals to Cafe du Monde’s. Service is in (he quick and “hon’-style tradition. 10819 Garland Rd. 321-1613. Mon-Sat 6:30 am-10 pm, Sun 7:30 am-10 pm. MC. V. Inexpensive.

HIGHLAND PARK CAFETERIA ★★★★★ standing in line at HPC and moving past the portraits of the presidents is a ritual of unmatched resonance m Dallas dining. HPC is a treasured local institution, from the Southern classics on the menu to the line Slaff, some of whom have been on the job for decades Perhaps as a result, many regulars believe that heaven itself will resemble HPC, with hairnetted attendants querying, “Serve you?” and booths always available. The menu on cloud nine: ham or chicken-fried steak, green beans, mashed potatoes and cream gravy, a jalapeno corn muffin, and cherry cobbler. The Addison and downtown branches have their virtues, but they don’! reproduce the allure of the original Knox Street location 4611 Cole. 526-3801; Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8800 H; downtown. 500 Akard at San Jacinto, Suite 220. 740-2400. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pen at Cole location; Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Sun 10:45 am-8 pm at Village on the Parkway location; Mon-Fri 6:30 am-2 pm at downtown location. Nocredit cards. MC, V, AE tor takeout and buffet orders of more than $10. Inexpensive.

MAMA TAUGHT ME HOW ★★★★★ Here is a down-home dream come true; lovingly prepared versions of the greatest hits of Dixified cuisine. That name, incidentally, is no trumped-up product of marketing strategy. Mama is Doris Alexander, her daughters are Judy Sharp and Vickie Piland, and together they run the place with a combination of charm and warmth that is as specific to the South as are grits. Standouts include the red beans and rice, chicken-fried steak (both available every day)’, chicken and dumplings, and coconut cream pie (which are available only on some days). 14902 Preston Fid. 0512 (SE corner of Preston & Belt Line) in Pepper Square. 490-6301. Mon-Fri 7 am-2.30 pm. Thur 5-8 pm. No credit cards. Inexpensive.

ROSEMARIES ★★★★ in the days when I toiled at The Dallas Morning News, one of my prescriptions for a bad morning was a quick trip across the bridge to Oak Cliff for lunch at Rosemarie’s. These days, I don’t make it to Rosemarie’s quite so often, but when I do. it’s like old-home week Rosemarie Hudson never forgets a customer, and her warmth accounts in part for the fanatical loyalty this little cafeteria-style operation inspires; the terrific chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, yeast rolls, and peanut butter pie also might have something to do with it. 1411 Niang. 946-4142. Mon-Fri 11-2 No credit cards. Inexpensive.

TOLBERT’S ★★ Tolbert’s Wes again, though in a different location in a slick downtown office tower. Still, the place is sufficiently rusticated in appearance to make it a good place to bring ou-of-towners disappointed in Dallas’s lack of way-out-West charm. It may be blasphemy to say, but I’ve never been a fan of Tolbert’s chili. The burgers, however, are fine and the donkey tails-flour tortilla-wrapped, deep-fried, cheese-stuffed hot dogs-are Junk food nonpareil. Skip dessert, especially the farkleberry sundae, which is vanilla ice cream sullied with blueberry glop. 350 N St Paul, Suite 160 953-1353. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm Closed Sun All credit cards inexpensive.



STEAKS

DEL FRISCO’S ★★★★★ In this age of Perrier, fish, and steamed vegetables, every so often it is important to balance the system with red wine, beef, and baked potatoes Del Frisco’s, a straight-ahead steak house with premium fare and prices to match, is made for just such occasions. An appetizer of shrimp remoulade was as good a version as you’ll find this side of New Orleans (which happens to be where owner Del Frisco hails from) I was quite happy with my Softball sized eight-ounce filet until I tasted the twelve-ounce rib-eye that my partner in cholesterol had ordered. This was a steak to remember-a supremely flavorful piece of meat. Some things to bear in mind: your steak will arrive in a pool of melted butter unless you nix this idea. Side dishes are ordered a la carte, and in portions immense enough for four. And bread pudding tans are advised to plan their meal to allow for Del Frisco’s version with raisins, coconut, and Jack Daniels sauce, 4300 Lemmon. 526-2101. Mon-Thur5 pm-10pm, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5 pm-9 pm. MC, V.AE. Expensive

HOFFBRAU ★★ It’s tough enough to find a good steak these days, much less one lor under ten bucks This restaurant is living proof that not everyone these days is turning to chicken and fish. No wonder. The specialty here is definitely meat, and judging by trie crowds at both lunch and dinner. Hoffbrau steaks are no secret. Ail dinners here include a large salad (with a house dressing), a plate of bread and crackers, and pan-fried chunky potato slices Waitresses clad in T-shirts and blue Jeans set an informal atmosphere. Good food, good service, and good luck finding a parking place. 3205Kriox.559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-1 I.Satnoon-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards Moderate.

LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB ★★★★ Finding myself once again on the verge of the big NB (nervous breakdown), I decided on dinner at Lawry’s. The only choices are prime rib prime rib, and prime rib-in three cuts – so the stress of ordering is minimal. And the fare is hardcore comfort food that takes the overwrought diner back a couple of decades to the Sunday-dinner fare of a simpler time The beef was lender and flavorful; and the accompaniments – including a salad of Romaine, iceberg, and watercress; mashed potatoes, and creamed spinach – were admirable At lunch there are also chicken, fish, and salad options, but prime rib is the point here At lunch or dinner the look of Lawry’s is surreally baronial, with tapestry and massive furniture abounding. 3008 Maple 521-7777. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri 6-11:30. Sat 5:30-11:30. Sun 5-10: Sun brunch 11:30-2. All credit cards. Expensive.

PALM ★★★★ The Palm is a weird experience for first-timers, to judge from the comments of the friend who accompanied me on my last checkup lunch. She knew it was famous for huge expensive lobsters and steaks, and. logically enough, expected the place to be plush and serious-looking. Instead, of course, the decor, such as it is, consists of the worst caricatures ever corn-milled to paper of the locally famous and semi-famous. Lunch at the Palm, it turns out, is a really good idea. The lunch specials are not only less pricey than the choices at dinner, but they’re frequently better, to judge from the celestial roast pork I tried this time around. 701 Boss. 698-0470. Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm. Sal 5-11 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards. Very expensive.



TAKEOUT



EVERYDAY GOURMET ★★★★★ This is the takeout establishment that I’ve been waiting for-or it would be. if only it kept later hours. The food is homey in the best sense, but never tastes amateurish The fare changes, but peerless meat loaf and chicken salad are two standards, and the prices for this simple perfection are reasonable 4446 Lovers Lane. 3730325. Mon-Fri 7:30am-7pm, Sat8 am-5:30pm. MC, V.AE. Inexpensive to moderate.

MARTYS ★★★ What I tike about Marty’s: the handsome setting, the well-chosen wine selection, and the consistent rewarding food. A harried Saturday afternoon was much improved by rabbit and hazelnut p£(e, pasta salad with pesto, smoked mussels, hearts of palm salad, poached salmon with green mayonnaise, peach tart, and ginger cookies. Marty’s takeout menu changes each Wednesday, and is designed to make at-home gastronomic glory possible even for the culinary illiterate: the suggested menu includes serving instructions and suggested wines. A recent development is the luncheon case, with pre-packaged sandwiches and salads ready to go tor lunch. What I don’t like about Marty’s; the hours. Here in Dallas, land of the workaholic, it’s frequently hard to get out of the office by Marty’s 6:30 closing time 3316 Oak Lawn 526-4070 Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards, Marlys charge. Expensive.

MIRABELLE ★★★ For those of us who never confuse the |oy of eating with the joy of cooking, haute takeout establishments like Mirabelle are a blessing They allow us to stay home and eat well without resorting to whisk and wooden spoon Thanks to Mirabella, I have spent some great evenings enjoying domesticity and “Si. Elsewhere’ most recently with mushroom and spinach soup (too few mushrooms, entirely too much spinach), spinach and feta cheese pie (no complaints), and raspberry- peach cobbler (fit for the gods). So it goes at Mirabelle: appetizers and main courses are of uneven qualify and sometimes suffer from having lingered too long m the refrigeration case, but desserts are a can’t-lose proposition. Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. Suite 73-74 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm. Mon 10:30 am-6 pm MC V AE; personal checks accepted Expensive.

TOMASSO’S ★★★ Tomasso’s makes it possible for the overtaxed gastronome to enjoy the illusion o1 cooking at home while in fact eating what is fast food, albeit last food that doesn’t taste unduly frenetic. The micro-wavable rotolo. a pasta roll filled with ricotta. mozzarella, and spinach, is an especially good choice for evenings when even boiling water is beyond one’s capabilities. The only problem with the rest of Tomasso’s offerings is the overabundance of choice. Do you want egg, spinach, tomato, whole wheat, or parsley and garlic pasta9 Do you want it cut as angel hair, tagliolini, spaghetti, linguiette, tagliatelle, or fettuc-cine? And then there is the sauce question – do you want tomato and fresh basil, amatriciaina. meat, cream and mushroom, walnut, or pesto? You can hardly go wrong, unless you opt for the dull lasagna. 3034 Mockingbird at Central, 987-4415; 5365 Spring Valley, Suite 158 at Montfort, 991-4040. Mon-Fri 11 arn-7 pm. Sat 10 am-6 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V Inexpensive to moderate.



THAI



CHIANG MAI ★★ Chiang Mai is the name of a city in northern Thailand, reputedly one of the loveliest m the country-and judging from this namesake, we are ready to believe it The pretty decor and the helpful service make this a pleasant place to get acquainted with Thai cuisine. Pick hits on the menu include meaty, tender pork moo satay, masterfully spicy shrimp coconut soup; perfectly prepared red curry shrimp; light, fresh-tasting eggplant Thai-style, delicious beef basil, and textbook versions of pud Thai and fried rice. 11277 E Northwest Hwy. Suite 148. 340-4499. Lunch Tue-Fri 11.30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5-1030. Fri& Sat 5-11 30 MC, V, AE. Moderate.

SIAM ★★★★★ Gone from the scene for more than two years, Siam has returned in a new location. The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever; the pork satay comes with peerless curried peanut sauce, the spring rolls are commendable, the beef salad is rolling in leaves of fresh mint, and pud Thai, a dish of rice noodles with shrimp, ground peanuts, and scrambled egg, tastes better here than anywhere. Now more than ever, Siam is one of Dallas’s all-time great Asian restaurants. Northwest Corners Shopping Center, 2415 W Northwest Highway HOB [accessible from Harry Hines] 358-3122 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate.

SIAM ORCHID ★★★ While the food may not live up to the memories of that served by Siam (the restaurant that formerly occupied this space), Siam Orchid is still worth exploring. On a recent visit, the spring rolls were light, and both soups (chicken with rice and shrimp in a hot-and-sour broth flavored with lemongrass) were satisfying. Crunchy fish fillets swam in a red curry sauce decorated with fresh hot peppers. On the down side, pork satay was dry, and charcoal-grilled beef in the salad with fresh mint lacked flavor. But since most of the food is excellent and the service kind and helpful, it’s still worth braving the sleazy neighborhood for a meal here 1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631 -6505. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30pm& 5-10 pm, Sat 5-10 pm. Closed Sun All credit cards. Moderate

SlAM ROSE ★★★★ The wilds of Addison are not where one expects to come across ethnic-food finds But after a shopping expedition at nearby Prestonwood, my partner in credit card abuse and I spied Siam Rose, where we had a superb Thai dinner The spring rolls were line, but it was the pad thai (rice noodles with shrimp, bean sprouts, egg. scallions, and peanuts) and the massaman chicken cooked in coconut milk with tamarind and curry sauce, potatoes, and peanuts that were startlingly good The sweet-natured service and quiet setting are bonuses. 5290 8elt Line, Suite 142. 991-9881 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 -3; dinner daily 5-11. MC. V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



VIETNAMESE



LA PAGODE ★★ In the past, I’ve experienced the emperor’s new clothes syndrome in regard to La Pagode. Although I had heard numerous reports of excellence from restaurant-hounds I respect. I had never had a meal that was better than average here until I went to lunch with a regular, who simply asked the chef to show us his stuff. The results, most notably a shrimp and shredded cabbage salad with a peanut sauce. were dramatically more distinguished than on my past visits. 4302Bryanat Peak. 821 -4542 Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri&Sat 11-1 I.Sun 5 pm-10pm. MC. V. Inexpensive to moderate.

MARS ★★ Lunch specials at Mais are a great, inexpensive way to be introduced to Vietnamese food, if you haven! discovered it. The garlic shrimp or the subtly fiery lemongrass chicken makes for a great lunch, especially if you follow it with Vietnamese-style iced coffee with condensed milk. (Finish this stuff off. and the paperwork will be flying from your desk for hours afterward.) You don’t come here for the atmosphere; Mai’s decor is distinctly utilitarian. 4812 Bryan. Suite 100 (al Fitzhugh) 826-9887 Wed & Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 11 am-10 pm. Closed Mon & Tue. MC. V. Inexpensive.

SAIGON ★★★★ Situated where Yolanda’s used 1o be on Lowes! Greenville. Saigon is definitely the best-looking Vietnamese restaurant in town. It also promises to be the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, period. Everything I tried on throe visits; was impressive. but the intriguing-sounding shrimp wrapped around sugar cane was particularly laudable As usual at Vietnamese restaurants, the beverages of choice are fresh lemonade and/or iced coffee. 1731 Greenville 828-9795. Tue-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 5-10. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES



CACHAREL★★★★ This pretty establishment with a glassed-in exhibition kitchen has a fixed price of $10 for lunch and $22 for dinner The fare-including such Gallic classics as green salad with goat cheese, asparagus soup, scallops with an assertive tarragon sauce, and lamb with a natural-juice sauce- would be worth twice the tariff. Brookhollow Two, 2221E Lamar. Suite910. Arlington. 640-9981. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate.

Cedars Village Café★★★★ I am sun trying to figure out how it took longer (Just under an hour) to get from Dallas to Arlington than from Dallas to Fort Worth. All turnpike travail aside, the voyage to Cedars Village Cate resulted in food that was well worth the effort hummus (a dip of pureed chickpeas served with pita bread); potato salad (dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, and garlic), grape leaves stuffed with rice and ground sirloin; falafel (fried balls of mashed, seasoned chickpeas); and rose wafer-flavored rice pudding topped with pine nuts. There is a light’ lunch special that offers a choice of appetizer. entrée, and salad for $3.89.5801 Green Oaks Plaza, Suite 360, 5801 WI-20. Arlington. (817) 483-1988. Mon- Thur 1I-3 & 5-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. Sunnoon-5. All credit cards Inexpensive

China Terrace★★★ I like to think that i win forgivealmost anything for good food. However, if that were the case, the well-prepared steamed dumplings, Szechwan beef, and shrimp with snow peas that I tried on my last visit to China Terrace would have left me happy. Instead, the harshly lit setting and the tough-luck attitude of the service (a request lor a beer at 9:55 was refused because the bar was closed) put a signifi-cant dent in my sense of well being 5435 N MacArthur. Irving. 550-1113 Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11 MC. V. AE. Moderate.

LA DELI ★★ You can begin and end your meal with the Generous Tray alone: eighteen (count ’em) dishes of assorted Lebanese salads and appetizers. from rolled and stuffed grape leaves to fresh yogurt. This is a very enticing – and filling – beginning. But if you have room for an entrée, the combination dinner is a good choice because you can sample some of Lebanon’s best dishes: kibbi. falafel. and shish kebab. 5433 N MacAr thur, Irving 580-1163. Lunch Mon-Sat 10:30-3 30; dinner Tue-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.

MERCADO JUAREZ★★ The decor’s the thing at Mercado Juarez, where Spiderman pinatas, cerveza-swigging stuffed frogs. and the dread strolling mariachis are the order of the day. The margaritas. available in three unfortunately named varieties-Mercaritas, Cuervoritas, and Juaritas- are no great shakes, to judge from the Slurpee-sweet Mercarita I tried. However, with one exception, the food was boiter than the gimmicky setting and choice of margaritas might lead one to expect Bacon-accented potato soup was a much better choice than tamales, which, if indeed they were homemade, were from a bad home. Mesquite-grilled swordfish was an exception to the rule that mesquite generally overpowers seafood and the accompanying black bean soup did it justice 2222 Miller Rd, Arlington. (817) 649-3324. Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri-Sat 11-11. All credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.<BR>TANDOOR ★★ intrigued by the idea of jeera pan’ a harmless-sounding aperitif of cumin, mint, and lemon water on Tandoor’s menu, we practically had to arm-wrestle our waitress to obtain a glass. Three gastroDomic tough guys lasted humiliation as we choked down a sulfurous concoction that could have passed for Trinity River water. Our waitress whisked away the evidence of our defeat, and we moved on to a superior assortment of appetizers: minced lamb patties, vegetables fried in chickpea hatter, potato/chili pallies, turnovers with potatoes and peas, and cheese fritters stuffea with mint chutney. A tomato and coconut milk soup provided a pleasurable interlude before our mam dishes, which were a relative let-down: tough curried lamb, slightly overcooked tandoori chicken, and dull cheese and vegetable dumplings Tandoor’s setting. with dim lighting and blue walls. is plain but pleasant. 532 Fielder North Plaza, south of 1-30. Arlington. 261-6604. Lunch daily 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30; brunch Sat & Sun 11.30-2.30 MC. V. AE. Moderate

VIAR REAL ★★★ Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists. The contents of the menu are as fresh as the look of the place-you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence. The appetizers include such novelties as crêpa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crêpes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce). Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end. Town North Cantre. 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate, Irving 255-0064 Lunch Mon-Sat 11-5; dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11; Sun brunch 10-2 All credit cards. Moderate



FORT WORTH



ANGELO’S ★ How much of Angelos reputation is warranted and how much mere mystique17 I found the sliced barbecue and the chopped bee! sandwich both lacking in smoky flavor (though tender and lean enough} the last time around The extras here have never been worth hooting about, so thai didn’t leave much besides the cold beer and the folksy sawdust on the floor to make the visit memorable. 2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 332-0357 Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards Inexpensive.

LE CHARODONNAY ★★★★ Former Ceret chef Philip Lecoq is a co-owner of this new bistro, and its combination of serious food and an informal atmosphere is reminiscent of that late, lamented establishment. The lamb chops lopped with goat cheese, served with a rosemary sauce and accompanied by herbed French fries, are a standout 2443 Forest Park Blvd. Fort Worth. (817) 926-5622. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11:30 pm-10:30 pm. Sat 6 pm-10:30 pm. Sun 11 am-2:30pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate.

HEDARY’S ★★Some things at Hedary’s were better than ever on my last visit, including the service by the members of the Lebanese-American family that owns the place. The assortment of appetizers was nothing short of spectacular, with definitive eggplant and chickpea dips, falafel. vegetables, and salads And the baklava and other desserts were delicate and delicious However, skewered lamb was lough, frarej (chicken broiled in olive oil) didn’t taste as boldly of garlic as we remembered. 3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817) 731-6961 Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner Tue-Thur & Sun 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Closed Mon. No reservations All credit cards. Moderate

SAINT-EMILION ★★★★ Considering the four-course fixed price of $20 per person, it’s surprising that more Dallasites dont make the trek to Saint-Emilion. The last time I did, the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leaf lettuce, radicchio, watercress, walnuts, and bits of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start. (Order the last with the boneless quail and you’ve got the snail-and-quail special.) Juicy swordfish provencal and nicely roasted duck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for, (Actually, one could ask that the duck be boned.) For dessert, pass on the fluffy, lightweight chocolate mousse and opt for the extraordinary crème caramel. 3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 6-10 pm, Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Moderate.



NIGHTLIFE



ANDREWS, Why mess around with a successful formula? Andrew’s still features obscure folk singers on the guitar, serves t!s well-regarded hamburgers, and offers its strong specialty drinks with ridiculous names. Although there are now four Andrew’s locations in Dallas, only the McKinney location offers live music. It’s still a kick to see the yuppie crowd that packs this comfortable nightspot listening to the old Joan Baez tunes, 3301 McKinney. 521-6535. 14930Midway, 385-1613; 7557 Greenville, 363-1910, 10723 Composite, 357-9994 Mon-Sat 11:15 am-2 am: Sun 10:30 am-2 am. All credit cards

ARTHUR’S. The ideal spot tor you to meet that rich middle-aged man, Arthur’s has tor years been the sophisticated gathering place for the single upper-class crowd in their forties and up who don’t believe that wearing a thick gold chain around your neck is the way to show your charm. 8350 Central Expwy. Suite M-1000 361-8833. Mon-Fri 11. 30 am-2 am; Sat 6 pm-2 am All credit cards.

BABY’S. The slickest new dance club in Dallas is (surprise!) found amid the laid-back nightlife on McKinney Avenue. It will probably bother some that most of the clientele is gay-but there are sprinklings of all the eclectic types here. This place has every trapping of Cool-a sunken dance floor (à la Starck Club), video screens, neon lights, a separate room in the back for a quiet drink, and bottom-shaking music 3501 McKinney. 521-4748. Wed-Sat 9 pm-4 am. Sun 5 pm-4 am. Closed Sun-Tue. AE.

BAR OF SOUP. We’d like to see this place make it just because of its name. A combination ar| pub and launderette, you can do your wash m the back room while sipping your favorite beer or wine. But you’ll want 1o make sure you stay there long enough to hear original music and poetry readings performed on top of the “soap box.” Along with the original artwork hanging on the walls, plans are m the works to provide people a chance to show their own productions on the bar’s VCR. 3615 Parry Ave. 823-6617 Daily noon-2 am. No credit cards.

BARNET OLDFIELD’S. Barney Oldfield’s relentlessly pushes on, no matter what other clubs are doing, with its “straight from Las Vegas” theme Everyone who appears on the stage seems to be either from Reno or Vegas. But while other similar supper clubs in Dallas have only had short lives, this one continues to thrive with its basic pop music act. 1893 W Mockingbird. 634-8850. Mon-Thur 11 am-1:30am, Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat & Sun 4:30-2 am Shows Tue-Thur 8:30 & 10 30. Fri & Sat 9 & 11. All credit cards

BEAU NASH. At the bar at Beau Nash, all that glitters is usually gold, but the place can also accommodate blue jeans with no strain What makes this the hottest après-dinner, -theater, or -whatever spot in town at the moment? The crack staff of bartenders doesn’t hurt, and neither does the lush, expansive setting Hotel Crescent Court, 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney 871-3240. Daily 1130 am-2 am All credit cards.

BELLE STARR. With wave after New Wave of music rolling in yearly, the old country-western culture might be fading. Are you kidding? Belle Starr, packed with a middle-aged boot-kicking crowd, continues to be a huge money maker There are bands every night, urban cowboys everywhere, and women in those tight-filling jeans Iha! would make any good old boy swoon There’s also free beer Tuesday through Thursday, which means you’ll have trouble squeezing into the place. 7724 N Central at Southwestern 750-4787. Mon-Sat 7 pm-2 am, Sun 4 pm-2 am. All credit cards

BOILER ROOM. Walk inside and it’s easy to see how this bar got its name: it’s the actual boiler room of the old Sunshine Biscuit Company However this has nothing to do with its popularity as a dance club and the best new singles bar close to downtown. Some may feel inhibited dancing in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows next to the dance floor ; others won’t want to leave, Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603 Munger. 988-0581. Daily noon-2 am. MC. V, AE.

BOWLEY & WILSONTS. If you’re looking for a place to have your church social, don’t come here. Not for the faint of heart or timid of ear. Bowley and Wilson dish out hysterical music and humor that landed them in |ail on one occasion. II you’re looking for a reasonably priced, humor-filled evening, Bowley & Wilson and the Blue Bathroom Humor Band are tor you. You can win free drinks by being a good sport when they ask you to join in the act Win tree Kamikazies by successfully singing “Old Ben Lucas” in front of the audience. 4714 Greenville. 692-6470. Tue-Sat 7:30pm-2 am Showstarts at 9:30. Cover varies. MC, V, AE.

BRIO. Its amazing how the herd instinct works at these Upper Greenville dance clubs Just when you think one of these places is going to become an institution, wham!, another one opens down the street and the fast-and-sexy singles crowd shifts allegiance. The latest one that is mounting incredible business- lines snake out the door almost every night – is Brio, where the hot-and-hungry do the predictable: sneak glances at one another, buy each other drinks, ask each other what they do, and then, after a dance or two, talk about what a wonderful thing it is to meet someone special at a place like this! Then they return the next night to do it all over again 5500 Greenville. Suite 403. 361-9517. Mon-Thur 4 pm-2 am, Fri 4-4, Sat 7 pm-4 am, Sun 7 pm-2 am. M, V, AE.

CaLLAGHAH’S. You want an Irish bar? Great. This claims to be one. but you’re more likely to find new music played by live bands than some old guys up on stage playing Irish jigs Some nights there’s no music and it’s just a hang-out bar where you can play dads. Sometimes there is an Irish band. The place has no real identity, which is why we like it ’701 Market at Ross. 761 -9355. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat & Sun noon-2 am. AE. DC. CB.

CHELSEA CORNEA. In the block where upper McKinney Avenue runs into Highland Park, this is the perfect club to blend the two cultures. A quiet, candle-on-the-table place, with little sandwich or quiche dinners, all kinds of colorful fruit drinks, and a guitarist playing folk-pop songs on an elevated stage, Chelsea Corner is great for a peaceful moment before you hit the fast fane or a way to unwind if you’re coming off it. 4830 McKinney. 522-3501 .-Daily 11 am-1:30 am. Live music Tue-Sat. MC, V. AE. DC.

CLUB DADA. You may recognize the name from the avant-garde performing group, Victor Dada. That’s because three of the members opened it, and it does have an eclectic style: new music and jazz and nightly versions of “performance art.” One of our favorites is the “Word ol the Day.” or “Monday Night Feedback.” where an improv team gives its own version of Monday Night Football. 2720 Elm at Crowdus. 744-4012. Daily 8 pm-2 am MC. V, AE

DICK’S LAST RESORT. The customers of this restaurant/bar spend most of their time saying, over and over. “Excuse me.” The place is usually standing room only, and with good reason It’s a fun bar offering live Dixieland muse, bench sealing, and decent food that comes in a buck-el As the West End grows, so will the crowds. But not at Dick’s-they can’t get any bigger, Ross at Record. 747-0001 Mon-Thur 11:30 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 30am-2am. Sun 1 pm-midnight. MC. V, AE, DC.

EMRELD CITY. We have no idea why one of the most popular dance bands in Dallas, Emerald City, decided that Iha name of its new nightclub would be spelled differently than the band’s own name Nor did we under-stand when the club’s manager labeled the club’s hot pink-and-black interior as “erotic art deco.” And we know what a gamble it is (or the same band to play one nightclub five nights a week, three weeks a month, and hope to keep drawing larger crowds. But Emerald City, which has been playing m Dallas for seven years, can put together a super-charged set – and it’s worth atrip. 4908 Greenville. 361 -2489 Sun- Thur 8 pm-2am, Fri & Sat 7pm-2am. Closed Mon MC, V.AE

ETCETERA. Think ol all the names this hot North Dallas bar has been called: Papagayo, in Cahoots, etc. Oh wad. The last one is actually the name of the bar now. and it’s the latest one to attract long customer lines. It’s hot for all the right reasons: search lights outside cross the sky, waitresses slink by in hand-painted uniforms, a dress code encourages expensive clothes, and most important, it’s the newest place on the street 8796 N Central Expwy, in NorthPark East. 692-5417 Mon- Thur 4:30 pm-2 am, Fri 4:30pm-3 am. Sat 8 pm-3 am. Sun 8 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.

FAST & COOL. Aller a meteoric rise to stardom. Fast & Cool is now undisputably the King of Lower Greenville. Apparently, the management has decided that patrons don’t want to hear an eleven-minute “dance-mix” version of the latest pop-chart bullet. The music here is predominantly Motown sound and authentic soul from artists like James Brown and Ike and Tina Turner The dance floor is the center of this tiny universe, and it has a magnetic effect on anyone who walks in the door It’s hard to imagine even the most hard-core Baptist resisting this dance floor. Unlike countless dance clubs that have come and gone on Greenville Avenue, this place has staying power. 3606 Greenville. 627-5544. Sun & Tue-Thur 8 pm-2 am, Fri & Sat 7-4. Closed Mon Cover $3 Thur, $4 Fri & Sat MC. V, AE.

FOUR SEASONS BALLROOM. This place offers big-band music for ballroom dancing A strict dress code is enforced, dresses for the ladies and coats and lies for the gentlemen. Only setups, beet, wine, and soft drinks are served, except on Fridays, when food is available. Cover varies, and free dance lessons are offered. 4930 Military Pkwy. 349-0390 Wed 8:45-11:45 pm, Fri 9 pm-12:30. No credit cards.<BR>FROGGY BOTTOMS. Ever wondered what a basement bar during prohibition must have looked like? This is it. A wonderful rhythm and blues club offering good barbecue and cold beer, the atmosphere here was definitely designed for good times in a very small setting. The Tonny Foy decor can best be described as early flea market. The walls are decorated with graffiti and scrap metal. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace 603 Munger. 988-0581 Daily 11 am-2 am. Cover varies. MC, V. AE.

FUNNY BONE. The Funny Bone is to the comedy scene what McDonald’s is to hamburgers. It’s the largest chain of comedy clubs in the country You may not recognize all the names that appear here, but that doesn’t mean they’re not funny Many of these comics are in the middle of long runs playing the ten clubs around the country. Tuesday nights you can catch the local improv group, “4 oui of 5 doctors.” LBJ Freeway and Greenville Avenue in the High Point Village Shopping Center 437-2000. Shows: Wed. Thur, Sun 8:30. Fri8-30& 10:45:Sat 7:45. W. S midnight. Tue9pm MC. V. AE.

GREENVILLE AVENUE COUNTRY CLUB. Take one step inside thedoor of this tow-key, easygoing place, and the name “country club” takes on a new meaning. Drinks are served inside the ’clubhouse,” where the surroundings are warm and comfortable Bui the only big shots at this country club are the ones poured into your glass 3619 Greenville. 826-5650. Daily 11 am-2 am. MC, V. AE.

GREENVILLE BAR A GRILL. This no-frills bar still remains the centerpiece of the Lower Greenville crowd After we hit all the funky nightspots on the strip. we always seem to head back over to the Bar & Grill for one last drink or hamburger, Hal Baker’s Gloomchasers continue with Dixieland music on Sundays and Thursdays. 2821 Greenville. 823-6691. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 am. Sun noon-2am. MC. V. AE

IMPROV. Everybody loves a clown, and of late some of the funniest folks in the show-biz circus have been splitting sides at the Improv, Dallas’s newest comedy club A cousin of 1he famed LA nightspot, the club takes its name from that gutsy, gonzo brand ol comedy that reached its zenith with Robin Williams, wherein the comic plays without a net, relying as much on crowd response, retort, and insult as on any sel répertoire When it works, the payoff can be explosive, awe-inspiring On our visit, funnyman Byron Allen (of TVs “Real People”) provided the yuks, feeding off the audience (with mixed results) and mining a rather dated vein of he-she humor. Somehow most of the material worked, though a good deal was Just Alan King with four-letter words. The opening act, |uggler Daniel Rosen, broke every law of physics by juggling a “Swiss army cat” festooned with razor-sharp blades. One word of warning: you won’t be amused by the low-grade tried appetizers on the cutesily titled “Date Plate” and “Swinger’s Plate.’ Eat around the corner at Magoo’s and show up ready to laugh .9810 N Central Expwy (in the Corner Shopping Center). 750-5868. Showtimes Sun-Thur 8:30 pm. Fri & Sat 8:30 & 1045. MC. V. AE.

JOE MILLER’S. The more things change, the more they stay the same That’s certainly true of Joe Miller’s. It’s still one of the best places in town for a real drink, and as always, after work there are plenty of good conversations going on that anyone can enjoy. Thal is unless you can’t say anything but “Come here often?” or “What’s your sign?” It’s Still (even with Joe’s passing) the number one media bar in town. 3531 McKinney. 521-2261. Mon-Fri noon-2 am. Sat6pm-2am. Closed Sunday MC. V. AE.

KNOX STREET PUB. Here, across the street from such yuppie delights as On the Border and Hoffbrau, is a bar stiff fighting to be laid back. And what is lad back these days7 How about a varied jukebox with rock ’n’ roll, English New Wave, country/western, and Sixties pop9 How about terrible restrooms and old pool tables? How about a motley clientele? The pub is a classic neighborhood bar. a vanishing species 3230 Knox 526-9476 Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 5 pm-2 am. No credit cards

THE LOUNGE. Want to throw down a beer with young intelligentsia? Here’s what you do. first, dress chic, but don’t let it look eleganlly chic Casuat chic is the style here (unless you’re in the New Wave crowd and you come in so everyone can have a look at what they’ve been told is “gloriously outrageous” fashion). Then, you d better see one of those foreign movies playing next door at the Inwood Theatre so you’ll have something to talk about at the bar And you’d better show a little poise This is as close as Dallas gets to one of those sophisticated, high-tech upper West Side bars m New York where you wish you could eavesdrop on the conversation at every table 5460 W Lovers Lane 350-7834 Sun-Thur5 pm-1 am. Fri & Sat 5 pm-2 am AE. DC. CB.

MEMPHIS. Don’t let the tiny dance floor (literally about the size of a two-door foreign car) and the dark hue of the bar disturb you. People dance in the aisles, on the chairs, by the bar- mainly because this is the best live jazz-dance bar in North Dallas. Great local groups are regulars-like Emerald City and Schwantz Lefantz Quorum Plaza, 5000 Belt Line Suite 500 386-9517. Sun-Thur 11 am-2 am. Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am. Cover $3-$5. All credit cards.

PlNOT’S WINE BAR. You want wine by the glass, this is the place to gel it-twenty-one varieties, ranging in price from $2.50 to $21 a glass. (11 you’re trying to check out all twenty-one in one night, the hall-glass option might be advisable.) There is a menu, and it’s more than passable, if less than awe-inspiring, but wine, not food, is the lure here. Pinot’s setting is closer to plain than plush, which doesn’t seem to bother in the least the wine and restaurant business crowd that gravitates here. 2926 N Henderson. 826-1949. Daily 2 pm-midnight. MC. V, AE.

PlAZA BAR. It’s just like the name implies, a plaza that opens to the alley of Dallas Alley, offering indoor and outdoor seating, with food service from two different restaurants. This is a great place to have a casual conversation and drink, or meet friends before tackling the West End for the night. Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603Munger. 988-0581. Daily 11 am-2 am. MC. V. AE.

POOR DAVID’S PUB. In a city where live music clubs close quicker than real estate deals, Poor David’s has been hanging on for eight years. It’s still the leader in blues artists, progressive-country singers, and touring folk singers. 1924 Greenville. 821-9891. Mon-Sat 7pm-2 am. Closed Sun. Cover vanes. No credit cards.

POPSICLE TOES. After taking one look at the seamy exterior, people have been afraid of walking in here, which is a mistake. Featuring rhythm and blues and funk bands like Phyrework, Popsicle Toes brings together a lively group from every social strata. This is one of the best places to dance you’ll find 5627 Dyer 368-9706 Tue-Thur & Sat 8:30 pm-2 am; Fri 4 pm-2 am; Sun 7:30 pm-midnight. MC, V. AE

PROHIBITION ROOM. Long regarded as the place in the basement next door to the Starck Club, the ProhibitionRoom has developed an aura of its own. For onereason, it has begun to regularly draw some of the top local bands, like Robert Lee Kolb. When you enter, you’ll think it’s another pool-and-shuffleboard bar, but when you run out of quarters, go to the back by the stage and listen to an evening’s worth of line music. 703 McKinney in the Brewery 954-4407 Mon-Fri 4 pm-2 am. Sat 6 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE.

RAZZ MATAZZ. Talk about a mixed bag: there’s no telling who you’re going to find in Razz Ma Tazz. Its West End location ensures a steady stream of after-work lounge lizards, visiting businessmen climbing the walls of their hotel rooms and tourists looking for a piece of authen-tic’TDallas Culture RazzMa Tazz features a strong lineup of local talent playing everything from hard-driving R & B to straight-ahead mainstream jazz The acoustics are pretty good, there’s actually enough room for a legitimate stage and the antique bar is a class act {Sure wish the barstools were higher, though.) Munchies are available tor patrons who don’t want purely liquid dinners. 1714NMarket 748-7112. Tue-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 am&5 pm-2 am Alt credit cards.

SRO. What would the yuppie downtown business crowd do if they couldn’t have an after work drink at SRO (which should stand for Smashingly Resplendent-ly Ordinary)? Here, you may tap your manicured fingernails against the sleek bar and wonder who thai handsome man is in the Armani suit or what kind of soul lurks beneath that Neiman-Marcus mannequin look-alike who is sipping wine by herself Everyone looks good m the track lighting of SRO. That, of course, doesn’t help the food, and you’d better be ready to talk banking or real estate principles if you want to last here. 2900 McKinney. 748-5014. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE.

STAN’S BLUE NOTE. The best beer-drinking joint on Lower Greenville, this place has been discovered mostly by the post-SMU crowd. But you’ll still find your quota of eccentrics and plain old barflies who love the shuf-fleboard and pool tables and the surprisingly lively atmosphere. 2908 Greenville. 824-9653. Daily 11 am-2 am. No credit cards

STARCK GLUB. A lot of people have been wondering: will Starck survive “the bust”? Will it survive the opening of more and more West End bars? True, it may not be quite as crowded and it’s only open Thursday through Sunday now. but we’re happy to report that the bar that taught us how to go to the bathroom together and dance alone is still going strong ’til the wee hours of the morning. Which only goes to prove, there is life without ecstasy. 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 720-0130. Thur & Sun 9 pm-2 am. Fri & Sat 9 pm-4 am. Closed Mon-Wed. Cover $5 Thur & Sun after 9 pm: $ 10 Fri & Sat after 9 pm. AU credit cards.

STATE BAR. One sign of a bar’s success is the sighting of T-shirts emblazoned with its logo on the persons of its patrons and would-be patrons By that standard State Bar is nearly as successful as-and far more hip than – the Hard Rock Cafe. What has made State Bar’s martini-glass trademark omnipresent is simple: this is a bar for low-key Bohemians who want to have civilized conversation while gazing out picture windows facing the fairgrounds across the street. The subdued lighting -there are rheostats at each booth – and moderate volume of the music make this possible. All in all. the effect is of a gallery opening without the pictures 3611 Parry. 821-9246. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am. Sat noon-2 am. Sun 6 pm-2 am. MC. V. AE

STONELEIGH P. Ask someone about the Stoneleigh P and they’re likely to describe it as one of their favorite places for a casual lunch Ask someone else, and they’ll tell you what a great bar it is for a late-night drink Both are right This would be a great neighborhood bar even if it weren’t in a great neighborhood. It’s a long-time favorite of the downtown set and advertising types. 2926Maple. 871-2346. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am. Fri& Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun noon-midnight. AE.

TAKE 5. Chefs will tell you that a fine dinner will taste better if it looks good If that holds true for music, then the jazz in this bar will sound great. Take 5 has a sophisticated look done in black and live music at a level that lets you enjoy talking to the person across the table. And. unlike many dobs, there is more time devoted to music than breaks, Part of Dallas Alley in the Wes! End Marketplace. 603Munger. 988-0581 Mon-Fri 5 pm-2 am, Sat & Sun 11 am-2 am. MC, V. AE.

TERILLRS. Ah, yes. that great Lower Greenville tradition -sipping wine, eating Italian, and listening to that smooth, soft kind of jazz that makes you start snapping your fingers like Mel Torme. Wait a minute! This is on Lower Greenville? Goodness, class is popping up everywhere. With the kind of black-and-white art deco decor that looks super expensive, a cozy bar area where you can meet someone who is (incredibly) not in real estate, and live jazz groups every night except Monday, you can actually drink something other than beer and not worry if others are making fun of you. 2815 Greenville. 827-3993. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 am, Sun 11 am-2 am. MC, V. AE

VENETIAN ROOM. The old king of the Dallas showroom supper clubs still consistently brings in the most recognizable names in pop-jazz-comedy acts. The posh, elegant place, with its frescoes on the walls and tuxedoed waiters, might be intimidating to some, but the dress code has been loosened (you can get by without tie or fancy dress), the cover charge ranges from twelve to twenty dollars, and you don’t have to buy the full-course dinner {which starts at twenty dollars) to come to the show. Fairmont Hotel. Ross and Akard. 720-2020. Mon-Sat. two shows nightly at 9 pm and 11 pm. All credit cards.

VIDEO BAR. If you’ve watched MTV once during the last year, you owe it to yourself to go to the Video Bar They have found music videos that you never see anywhere else-even some absolutely weird stuff that is all fraught with significant meaning and whatnot, It you consider yourself part of the new scene- and if you promise not to wear anything resembling penny loafers- this is your Deep Ellum kind of place. All the funky regulars from the old “On the Air” bar have already found their spots, so be prepared to wail m line. 2812 Elm. 939-9113. Daily 8 pm-2 am MC. V.AE

Wall Streets. Junk bonds . absorption rate, taxbase. . Oh. sorry, we’ve been hanging out at Wall Streets, enjoying hard drinks and bedrock American business talk There isn’t much fooling around here. This is the business lunch, business drink, business conversalion crowd – and they love it. 725 N Olive in the Bryan Tower Parking Garage 754-0199. Mon-Fri 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. All credit cards.

THE WINE PRESS. This is the perfect place to go on a rainy night -or any time you’re looking for romance intimacy, and spirits The Wine Press is decorated with wine bottles from floor to ceiling on almost every wall. The atmosphere is low-key and elegantly casual; the service, friendly but not hovering, the wine selection, extensive-to say the least 4217 Oak Lawn. 522-8720 Tue-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun S Mon 11 am-midnight MC, V, AE.

ZANZIBAR. Zanzibar offers drinks and good deli food in a colorful cafe setting The decor- neon, glass bricks and pmk-and-green walls-is odd enough to work And even though Zanzibar looks cosmopolitan, it has a neighborhood bar feel to i! that leads to discussions among perfect strangers from table to table 2912 Greenville. 828 2250 Mon 11: am-midnight Tue-Sat 11 30 am-2 am. Sun 3 pm-midnight. Sun brunch 10:30-3. MC. V, AE.



FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE



BUS BOB’S TEXAS. This huge country/western club in the Fort Worth Stockyards has a lot going for it: two restaurants. lorly-two bar stations, a real bull-riding arena, and several shops. It’s bigger than Gilley’s. more citified than the Longhorn Ballroom ever was, and a “must-see” if you’re m Fort Worth. 2520 Rodeo Plaza in the Stockyards Metro 429-5979 Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun noon-2 am. MC. V. AE.

THE BLUE BIRD. Even when the band’s not playing, you’ll feel like dancing at The Blue Bird; the jukebox is the best in Fon Worth. But then, the patrons of this club don’t want that to gel around. Ibey know a good thing when they’ve found it. The club is packed nearly every weekend with regulars dancing to the infectious music of Robert Ealey and the Bluesblasters This is rhythm and blues at its finest, but sssshhh! 5636 Wellesley. (817) 732-6243 Fri & Sa! 7 pm-2 am No credit cards

CARAVAN OF DREAMS. Caravan of Dreams, which covers three floors of a chic Sundance Square building, has excellent live jazz/blues (and a bar) on the first floor, a theater with movies and live drama (and a bar) on the second floor, and an outdoor patio with a cactus garden (and a bar) on the roof. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000 Wed-Fri 5 pm-2 am, Sat 7 pm-2 am. Sun 6 pm-midnight. Closed Mon & Tue. Cover for shows only MC. V. AE. DC.

THE HOP. In three words. The Hop is warm, woody, and wonderful It has the air of a typical college hangout, but lacks the cutesy crowd or trendy atmosphere. A stage lucked in the corner features national and loc3l bands, with music ranging from folk to reggae rock to country Although all the food is good, none of it can surpass the pizza. 2905 W Berry (817) 923-7281. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 4 pm-2 am. MC. V. AE

THE PICKIN’ PARLOUR. Just up the road from the popular White Elephant Saloon is a club that is unusually devoid of the hordes of Yankees who invade this touristy area each weekend The reason? They take their beer drink-in’ and two-steppin’ seriously here, folks. Those who can’t get their feet to move to the one-two, one-two-three beat get lost in the shuffle. But once you get the hang of it. you’ll never go back to rock ’n’ roll. 103 W Exchange in the Stockyards (817} 624-2592 Tue-Sat 1 pm-2 am. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards.

THE WHITE ELEPHANT SALOON. In 1887. the owner of the White Elephant shot it out with a U.S. Marshal. Today, the Elephant has country/western music six nights a week and lots of tourists trying desperately to learn the two-step on a small dance floor 106 E Exchange (817) 624-8273. Mon-Sat noon-2 am. Sun noon-midnight. Happy hour: Mon-Fri 4 pm-7 pm. MC, V, AE.