What becomes a woman most? According to legend, a great fur coat. This fall’s best show off the handiwork of both furrier and fashion designer. Striking pelts are thoughtfully placed, and a standout selection of shapes continues the seasonal penchant for simple lines, uncomplicated forms.

When it comes to color, it’s a matter of choice. Designers have detailed a rich range of close-to-nature, golden browns for the traditionalist as well as a palette of brazen, faux colors, skillfully dyed for (he dare-to-be-different.

Full length this season means one of the new seven-eighths coats set to swing in a refined Forties silhouette. Three of the best; (left to right) Valentino’s natural mahogany lunaraine mink, the pelts sewn to swirl on the diagonal, from Cecil Elrod at Stanley Korshak, The Crescent; Karl Lagerfeld\s effortless high drama in exquisite golden sable for Fendi. from Neiman-Marc us: and Donna Karan’s luxe shawl-collared/hooded wrap in wild mink from Cecil Elrod at Korshak.

The soft side of fall color: shirred, sectioned fox dyed pastel peach in a short swing-coat by Louis Dell’Olio for Anne Klein II, from Bifano’s.

Showing off hot spots: the appeal of a perfectly tailored jacket in natural Canadian lynx by Christian Dior for Koslow’s. Fringed saddle-leather belt with sterling clasp and Christine Thomson’s black knit turtleneck from The Gazebo.

Luxurious Lagerfeld for Fendi: rich, golden Russian sable in the silhouette of the season, from Neiman-Marcus.

Left to right beginning with blue frame: the appeal of a shapely short Jackel: Szor-Diener Furs’ easy, hip-cropped, dolman-sleeved cocoon is striking, classic in blue-iris mink.

Popping up everywhere: hoods. This one tops a luxe wrap of natural wild mink by Donna Karan from Cecil Elrod at Stanley Korshak. Chocolate leather gloves from Saks Fifth Avenue.

Attention to detail for day-into-eve-ning: a soft-shouldered fingertip-length jacket of natural Canadian Golden Island fox from James Hirsch Furs. Jeans by Georges Marciano for Guess from The Gazebo.

Part of the finer things this fall: fabulous fur trimmings: easy Jackel in peach embossed leather flattered by a blush-dyed fox collar and cuffs from Sam Bifano Furs: shirred, sectioned jacket of peach-dyed fox by Anne Klein II from Bifano’s.

The drama of basic black fox dyed teal, thoroughly modern in a cropped cocoon with cutaway front from Revillon at Saks Fifth Avenue. Black cableknit hood and scarf from Saks.

Maud Frizon’s first fur collection sums up animal chic: spotted and shaped to suit the seasonal preference for a short, cropped jacket. From Revillon at Saks Fifth Avenue. Brown kidskin skirt by Begedor from Saks.

Yves Saint Laurent details the well-bred look of Russian broadtail lamb. His short peplum jacket is classic, contemporary. From Revillon at Sales,

Krystallos’s marble sphere and table to the trade at David Sutherland Inc. Paper mats from Paper Routes.


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