THE LONG AND SHORTS OF IT

Many men don’t place buying new shorts at the top-or even the middle-of their priority list. Instead, they prefer to dig through their drawers and find an old pair that more or less fits. Dallas women may be the best dressed in the world, but any number of men in this town could do with a lesson in summer chic.

This year, the Reagan Revolution seems to have trickled down to the men’s fashion industry, especially when it comes to shorts. Conservative looks are in, and wild Hawaiian prints are out. Peter Macintosh, owner of Max Slax (a new shorts line characterized by a Velcro waistband), says that the year of the Jams has long since passed. “I’m selling more khaki and white shorts than anything else,” he says. “Conservative stripes have also been big sellers this year.” The Polo Shop in Highland Park Village, another barometer of men’s fashion, is also solidly behind the conservative look. This year they’re stocking nautical, cruise ship-type looks. Navy and white, as well as other subdued colors, have really set sail here.

The length of shorts is as important as the color when aiming tor the conservative, well-put-together look. With the fitness craze booming, more men are wearing shorter shorts. Keller Henderson, salesman at The Polo Shop, says it’s because the men are in better shape and the mid-thigh length is flattering. This length is also popular with younger men, who wear it for tennis or just running around.

But the virtues of traditional Bermuda shorts can’t be overlooked. Bermudas have been popular for many years and give the wearer a dressier look. While many restaurants don’t allow men to wear shorts, Bermudas often slip by unnoticed.

Even some fellows who know enough to buy the best-looking shorts in town can falter when it comes to putting an entire ensemble together. The best socks to accompany shorts are plain white crew socks. They make legs look tan and go with almost everything. As for what to wear over the socks, topsiders and tennis shoes are the best footgear for shorts. And one more warning. Repeat after me: dress shoes wouldn’t be called dress shoes if they were meant to be worn with shorts.

The most basic shirt for shorts-and the best-looking-is the traditional polo-type knit shirt. It looks good with both Bermuda and mid-thigh shorts as well as jeans and khaki pants. A nice T-shirt (no cutoff or concert T-shirts) is also fine to wear when appropriate. Long-sleeved button-downs aren’t great with the shorter shorts, but look quite nice paired with Bermudas, especially when you’re going out on the town.

If your wardrobe needs a major overhaul, don’t panic. Start with a pair of basic khaki shorts and add a couple of coordinating knit shirts. The shorts will run between $20 and $50, the shirts anywhere from $20 to $45. If you’re depressed at the prospect of fashion overhaul, just think: it could be a tot worse. If you were a woman, right now you’d be pondering whether to invest in a crinoline this year.