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EATING AROUND DRAMATICS AT THE CADILLAC BAR

Also: Hofstetter’s and McKinney & Knox
By Liz Logan |

Cadillac Bar



★★ If the name of this establishment seems familiar, there’s a reason. The new Dallas outpost of what promises to be a burgeoning empire, a la the Hard Rock Cafe, follows the Houston original and its New York successor, and Chicago, Atlanta, and Washington, D.C., locations are on the boards.

As its name suggests, the focus of the Cadillac Bar isn’t food. Which is just as well, considering what I tasted there. Taking it from the top, the nachos, particularly the signature Cadillac nachos, were quite good and served in a portion large enough to serve as a meal for two moderately hungry people. The cheesecake for dessert was also a keeper.

But to judge from my experience, most elements of the meal in between the nachos and the cheesecake are best avoided. Cadillac enchiladas were sad-looking, shriveled objects; baked cabrito was unacceptably off-tasting; and mesquite-roast-ed quail might have been worthwhile if it hadn’t been so dry.

But forget the food; the drinks-specifically, marga-ritas, tequila shots, and Mexican Flags-are what the Cadillac Bar is really about. The marga-ritas are drinkable, and. as usual, it’s worth it the next day to shell out the extra dollar for the special margarita made with the higher-priced stuff. Tequila shots are served by young women equipped with shotglass-filled bandoliers. The serving procedure includes banging on the table and ululating in a fashion one rarely hears outside private homes and motel rooms.

Should this performance not satisfy your desire for at-the-table histrionics, then you are well advised to order a round of Mexican Flags. These layered red, white, and green concoctions (composed of grenadine, white creme de menthe, and chartreuse) are set afire and served to the tune of a band of staff members banging on pots and pans.

Spending an evening at a sort of Tex-Mex version of the Magic Time Machine isn’t really my idea of a great time, but the Cadillac Bar is betting it will be for masses of Dallasites. The 29.000-square-foot restaurant will seat 1,000 (with standing room for 300 in the bar area, and additional tables outside on the patio). 5919 Maple Ave. 350-3777. Daily II am-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate.



Hofstetter’s



★★★★ Tucked away in the Plaza at Bachman Creek, Hof-stetter’s is a Viennese jewel. Here, in a setting that leads one to expect nothing more than sandwich-shop fare, some of the best Germanic cuisine in the area is served. Sandwiches, coffees, and desserts are listed on the menu, but the real action is on the blackboard, which lists the specials that have attracted a cult following.

On a recent lunch visit, the offerings included veal a la Zurich accompanied by spaetzle (little twists of dumplings) and Wiener schnitzel partnered by sauteed potatoes. Both entrees were perfectly prepared preludes to the killer desserts and coffees.

This establishment is a caffeine addict’s dream: eight choices of espresso and coffee, to be consumed in the company of such desserts as Sacher torte, a raspberry-infused dream of darkest chocolate torte served with whipped cream. Plaza at Bachman Creek, 3830 W Northwest Hwy. 358-7660. Mon 11 am-2:30 pm; Tue, Thur 11 am-9 pm; Wed, Fri, Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



McKinney & Knox



★★ This isn’t a bad restaurant, but it isn’t a very good one either. It’s attractive enough in a bland way, though I liked the looks of the place better in its previous incarnation as Tolberfs. The food is in the TGI Friday’s mold: it all sounds very with-it, but frequently falls short of the mark.

A cheeseburger, black bean cheese crisps-beans, cheese, bacon, and olives wrapped in flour tortillas and grilled-and the unfortunately named “Love Me Tenders’-chicken fingers-were perfectly adequate. Limp seafood fettuccine and greasy coconut fried shrimp were considerably less than adequate. 4544 McKinney Ave. 522-4340. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-mid-night. MC, V, AE, Inexpensive to moderate.



RESTAURANTS



AMERICAN



BABY RouTH ***** This infant son ot Routh Street Cate is a casual, relatively inexpensive alternative to the pricey, reservation-required pleasures of Routh Street Cafe. Stephan Pyles and chef Amy Ferguson (who first made a name for herself in Houston) have come up with an earthy menu that is a pleasing balance of the new and the familiar Don’t miss the smoked corn chowder with collard greens cream, the spicy honey-fned chicKen, the grilled prawn and apple-smoked bacon club sandwich on toasted brioche, and the chocolate-ancho pot de creme 2708 Routh. 871-2345. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2 30; dinner daily 6-17, late-night menu Mon-Sat 11 pm-1 am; brunch Sat & Sun 11 30-3. Ail credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



BEAU NASH ***** As the months have gone by, Beau Nash has come into its own identity, and its virtues seem more and more apparent For one thing, it keeps late hours-at least by Dallas standards-and does so every night. For another, it’s a lively, entertaining hangout. And last but not least, the menu has been astutely adjusted. although not completely overhauled. Happily, the smoked salmon pizza-the perfect partner to champagne-survived Hotel Crescent Court. 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney 871-3240 Breakfast daily 6:30-10:30; L unch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 6 pm-11.30 pm; Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Expensive.



ClTY CAFE ***** City Cafe’s innovative yet reassuringly homey menu (which changes every Wednesday) continues to be one of the best in town in terms of quality-to-price ratio A recent dinner was nearly flawless the mined garden salad, jambalaya with ham, oysters, shrimp, and andouille sausage; chocolate quiche with shortbread crust, and creme brulee with a coconut cookie crust were all they should have been 5757 W Lovers Lane (just west of Dallas N Tollway) 351-2233. Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30-230. dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun MC. V.AE Moderate.



DAKOTA’S **** Dakota’s current lunch and dinner menus include more salads and light dishes than did their predecessors. However, the emphasis is still on things Southwestern and mesquite-grilled To |udge from two exemplary items from the dinner menu-grilled lamb chops stuffed with herbed Texas goat cheese with Zinfandel sauce and grilled beef tenderloin fillet with mushroom caps-this is all to the good Also unchanged, of course, is the slick, heavy-on-the-marble decor. 600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30: Sun brunch 11-2:30 All credit cards. Lunch moderate, dinner expensive.



DREAM CAFE ***** The bliss that is breakfast at the Dream Cafe is one of the worst-kept secrets in the Highland Park/Oak Lawn area. On weekends, the place is full of sleepy yuppies, hippies, and preppies in quest of fresh-squeezed orange juice, blueberry pancakes, and migas What still isn’t widely known is the appeal of the Dream Cafe’s changing lunch and dinner choices, which are simultaneously healthy, satisfying, and sophisticated. And what hardly anyone at all knows is that although the place has no liquor license, you can bring your own wine or beer. 3312 Knox. 522-1478 Mon-Fri 7am-3 pm. Thur-Sat 6 pm-10pm, Sat & Sun 8 am-3 pm MC, V, personal checks accepted Inexpensive.



The Hansin on Turtle Creek ***** The Mansion has no competition in its melding of Dallas’s historic pas! and gastronomic future. In the golden glow of the restored, circa 1925 Sheppard King mansion. Dean Fearing turns out cutting-edge New American Cuisine with a Southwestern accent. Current standouts pan-fried oysters with roasted peppers. Louisiana cab cakes with a sauce of smoked chilies. lobster, and blood orange, and chicken with a maple-pecan crust and roasted garlic potatoes 2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room-jackets and ties required Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2 30. brunch Sat noon-2.30. Sun 11-230; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11. supper Mon- Thur 10:30 pm-midnighl, Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight Promenade Room – breakfast Mon-Fri 7-11.30. Sat & Sun 7am-1 pm; tea Mon-Fri 2-5 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.



D REVISITS

PARlGI * * * Pangi is a restaurant that inspires strong emotion. Its fans love its marbleized, postmodern look and its menu, which changes daily and might be described as hybridized nouveau American-French-Italian. its detractors hate its patrician attitude (no iced tea on this menu – too plebeian) and us menu, which in its stranger manifestations can seem more Martian than anything else On my last dinner visit, I found myself reflecting once again on the Parigi paradox the pasta dishes always sound too interesting to pass up, and nearly always turn out to be too strange to enjoy in this case, the relevant examples were tomato fettuccine with shrimp and asparagus in sorrel cream sauce and cilantro linguette with chicken, black beans, and red bell pepper pesto. Still, Parigi’s wine list is well chosen, its Saturday brunch is lovely, and its waiters are terrific 3311 Oak Lawn. 521-0295 Lunch Tue-Fri 1:30-230; dinner Tue-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6.30-11; Sat brunch 10:30-3 All credit cards. Expensive.



ROUTH STREET CAFE***** Routh Street Cafe’s formula lor national gastronomic lame: Stephan Pyles’s New Southwestern Cuisine: a sleek, Tonny Foy-designed setting, and snappy, congenial service. The ftve-course. fixed pnce menu ($42. with surcharges tor cer-tain items) is printed daily but certain items-such as cornmeal catfish with smoked pepper/mini marigold sauce, lobster enchilada with red pepper creme fraiche, lamb with pecan and garlic sauce, berry buckle with cinnamon ice cream, and apple walnut spice cake – have become near-fixtures When food-obsessed travelers come to town, this is the reservation they want. This means prime-time reservations should be made well in advance. 3005 Routh at Cedar Springs 871-7161 Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm Closed Sun & Mon Reservations All credit cards. Expensive



SAN SlMEON ***** Richard Chamberlain’s food matches the splendor of San Simeon’s service and its subtly, weirdly wonderful postmodern Egyptian interior (Keep your eye on the lighting, it changes over the course of a meal.) Pick hits include a chowder of corn, wild rice, and duck sausage; chilled bow-tie pasta and prosciutto with sago walnut peslo; and Romano-crusted weal with angel-hair pasta and tomato sauce 2515 McKinney at Fairmount in Chateau Plaza. 871 7373. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sat 6-11; Sun brunch 11-2:30. All credit cards. Expensive.



BURGERS



SNUFFER’S *** Snuffer’s is nearly always packed with patrons who either go to SMU or look as if they ought to, but this should not be held against it. The menu is small and well-prepared, with emphasis on salads, nachos. burgers, and the like The chicken sandwich is notable and the immense basket of fries is a trademark I wouldn’t have believed it was possible to finish an order of the plain fries, much less those with cheese, but I have witnessed the feat. 3526 Greenville. 826-6350. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun 11:30 am-2 am. All credit cards Inexpensive.



CAJUN



CAFE MARGAUX ***** The blackened-everything brigade-those trend-surfing restaurateurs who don’t know their elbows from their etouffees – have made many local diners deeply suspicious of ail Cajun food served outside a fifty mile radius of New Orleans. Happily. Cafe Margaux is another matter altogether The food here measures up to Louisiana’s finest, house-made rolls, green salad, crawfish etouffee, oysters Bienville, trout with crab-meat stuffing, and bread pudding were all flawless. Good news for regulars accustomed to waiting in line for the twelve tables expansion has brought the number of tables to twenty. and a well-considered selection ol American wine is now available. 4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886. Sun-Thur 5.30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6 pm-11 pm. MC. V, AE.



CHINESE


D REVISITS



AUGUST MOON * * * * On a recent visit to the original Addison August Moon (there are now clones in Piano and Arlington, too), the food shone much more bnghtly than on previous visits. Whatever the reason, results were impressive enough to make me look for-ward to a return trip. Steamed pot stickers, pork dumplings that are the Oriental version of ravioli, were simultaneously light and satisfying – and much more interesting than the standard-issue egg rolls Lamb and prawns Hunan-slyle was a blast of heated flavor, which was a nice contrast to the refined tang of lemon chicken 15030 Preston at Bett Line 385-7227 Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 1 1-11 All credit cards. Moderate .



CATHYS WOK * * While what emerges from Cathy’s Wok won’t knock your socks off and is not worth the haul to the North land if you live in Dallas, it is a worthwhile alternative if you are a resident of Piano From the informative menu (dishes are described in detail, complete with calorie count). I tried decent wonton soup, an egg roll that was heavy on the cabbage peppery chicken (with plenty of green pepper in a savory brown sauce), and shredded pork with garlic sauce (with lots of julienned carrots in a sweet sauce). Even when Ihe food here isnt perfect. the ingredients are fresh and mercifully MSG-free, and the prices are right ($3 95 for lunch. $4.95 for dinner) 4010 W 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Mon Sat 11 am-9 30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Inexpensive.



CRYSTAL PAGOOA **** One of the oddest facts of dining in Dallas is that although there are more Chinese restaurants around than any other kind, we don’t have a single one thai approaches the greatness of. say, New York’s Siu Lam Kung Crystal Pagoda doesn’t match that standard, but it’s as good as Chinese food gets in Dallas- which is quite good. The shredded beef Szechwan-style and the moo shu pork are two especially good choices here The service and selling are both extremely pleasant 4516 McKinney. 526-3355, Mon-Thur 11 30am-10:30pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10 30 pm. MC. V. AE. Moderate.



DYNASTY **** This relatively formal Chinese restaurant, despite its unlikely location adjacent to a motel, is among the best in the area – admittedly, a backhanded compliment given Dallas’s dearth of truly great Chinese food On a recent visit, decent shrimp rolls and spring rolls were followed by indecently good rainbow chicken (julienned chicken, snow peas, red pepper, and Mung bean sprouts) and the equally praiseworthy if oddly named, silver gourd savoury (shrimp, green peppers, straw mushrooms, and water chestnuts) Orange beef was too fatty, as it tends to be in Chinese restaurants all over town. Garden Inn, 4101 Bel! Line. Addison 385-7888 Sun-Thur 11 30am-10.30pm. Fri & Sat 11.30 am- 11.30 pm All credit cards Moderate



HONG KONG ROYALE *** Being the only non-Orientals in the room makes Chinese food fans of Western descent very happy. This was the case when I forced a friend to accompany me to the wilds of Richardson in search of great Chinese The dim sum that we had heard en-thusiaslic reports on wasn’t available, so the jury’s still out on whether this restaurant is the answer to the prayers of exiled New Yorkers who search the Metro-plex tor the Chinese food they remember. However, a standard lunch of chicken with almonds and shredded pork with garlic sauce was very satisfying What’s more, the pastel-hued decor at Hong Kong Royale is unusually pretty. Plainly, this place warrants further exploration. 221 W Post. Richardson. 238-8888. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat & Sun 10am-11 pm. MC. V. AE. Inexpensive.



JASMINE *** Jasmine’s setting sets it apart from standard-issue Chinese restaurants. It’s plush to the point of featuring a white baby grand piano For reasons unknown, the menu featured some fractured French, but its offerings don’t suffer as a result Shrimp rolls arrived encased in black seaweed wrappers-not, bad, mind you, but still, the stuff did take some getting used to. Happily, however, there were no untoward surprises involved in the top-notch treatments of moo shu pork and beef Mimosa (sauteed in an orange-flavored red pepper sauce). 4002 Belf Line 991 -6867. Mon-Thur 11.30 am-10 pm. Fri 11 am-11 30 pm. Sat 11.30-11:30 All credit carts Moderate.



SZECHWAN PAVILION * * * With its sophisticated peach and gray color scheme. Szechwan Pavilion is an aesthetic knockout. At its best, the food very nearly lives up to the setting The spring rolls-crisp wonton wrappers punctuated by shrimp, sprouts, and carrot shreds-are musts to order After that, kung pao shrimp with red pepper and peanuts might be in order. Two dishes to avoid: dry. nearly tasteless hot spicy lobster sauteed with ginger in chili sauce, and chicken chow mein with canned, as opposed to fresh, mushrooms. Prices are a bit higher here than at most local Chinese restaurants, but one can see. in such touches as the exotic lilies on the tables, where the surcharge is going 8411 Preston Suite 132 at Northwest Highway. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10.30 pm. MC. V, AE. Moderate to expensive.



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



D REVISITS

ACTUELLE **** If I had a chapeau to hand. I would eat it. As it is. I’ll have to settle for ingesling my words When I first reviewed Actuelle, 1 found it off-putting and said so. However, as the months passed, and reliable sources continued to file reports of formidable meats at Actuelle, I revisited for lunch and dinner ana found my sources to be correct Although breast of Long Island duck with angel-hair pasta was an the fatty side, everything else, including tortilla soup with smoked chicken and serrano chilies and a dessert of apple-almond custard torte with caramel sauce, ranged from remarkably good to perlect Service is excellent, and the setting is austerely attractive The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 855-0440- Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner Mon-Thur 6-10.30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards Expensive.



CAFE ROYAL **** Romance may be invaluable, but a romantic dinner shouldn’t cost more than a used car Cafe Royals $34.50 fixed-price dinner, which changes daily, is reasonably priced and, thanks to the lovely setting and skillful service, unreasonably romantic. The run-down on one mght’s uniformly well-prepared options: an appetizer of a salad with quail breast or an artichoke bottom with lobster ragout and caviar butter sauce; a green salad or red-wine sorbet, an entree of sliced loin of lamb with wild mushrooms and a shallot and sage sauce or fillet of John Dory with angel-hair pasta and lemon thyme sauce, and a choice of dessert. Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl 747-7222 Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30-2: dinner Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 6 30 11. Closed Sun. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards Expensive.



CHEZ GERARD * * * Now that Calluaud has laid down its Iife to become a parking lot for the Hard Rock Cafe. it’s a safe bet that former Calluaud regulars will be joining the already healthy crowds at Chez Gerard (which is also a Guy ana Marline Calluaud operation) The highlights of my most recent dinner checkup visit were topflight treatments of sauteed lamb chop with parsley and garlic and Moating island (poached meringue floating atop vanilla custard). Shrimp remoulade. cassoulet (a stew of white beans and sausage that Francophiles adore and the less reverent refer to as the Gallic version of beans and weenies), and creme caramel were less distinguished, but still well within Chez Gerard’s range of dependable quality. 4444 McKinney 522-6865. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. dinner Mon-Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate to expensive.



The French Room **** with its cherubs, vaulted ceiling, and trompe I’oeil garden, the rosy-hued French Room ’s far and away the most baroque-looking restau-ranl in Dallas In the five years since its opening, it has had its culinary ups and downs, happily, however.a cent visit suggested that it is in an up cycle From salads (green bean and green salad with goat cheese croutons) to entrees (salmon and rack of lamb) to dessert (apple tart), the food was all that one could ask for. What’s more, the sommelier is both congenial and well-informed; he is as happy to advise customers on a single glass of wine as a rare bottle. Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200 Mon-Sat 6-10 Jackets and ties required All credit cards. Expensive.



THE GRAPE **** The Grape’s setting-dark as a candle-lit dungeon, with red-checked tablecloths and touches of vinous kitsch – maKes it an ideal hangout for Lower Greenville’s resident Bohemian yuppies The Grape paraphernalia displayed near the door-includ-ing T-shirts and a cookbook-suggests that what we have here is not so much a restaurant as a way of life. Although the Grape still serves the cheese and pate offerings that were its specialty when it opened in 1972. pasta and fish specials are the ticket these days. 2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 6-11 Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight Alt credit cards Moderate.



L’ENTRCOTE **** After a long sliding spell, LEntre-cote has, as the French say. pulled up its socks. Thanks to the efforts of chef Michel Platz. the Loews Anatole’s French restaurant is once again one of the best in the city. Watercress and endive salad with pink grapefruit was an exceptionally refreshing appetizer Gratin of crawfish tails with ginger was light and satisfying, and loin of lamb with rosemary and shallot coulis was a must for lamb fans. Finally, dessert- banana beignets with coconut mousse-was a killer. Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy 748-1200 Wed-Mon 6-10:30pm Closed Tue. All credit cards Expensive to very expensive.



MADAME CHANG **** This product of gastronomic cross-pollination-specifically, of French and Chinese cuisine-is an attractive, if very formal-feeling, place. Standouts on the menu are the sauteed breast of chicken with pine nuts, red peppers, snow peas, and ginger; grilled lamb chops with creamy mint sauce; and salmon steak and prawns with tomato-shrimp cream sauce The Crescent, 2200 Cedar Springs. 871-3838 Sun-Thur 11 am-11 pm.Fri & Sat 11-11. bar open daily 11 am-1 am All credit cards Expensive.



THE RIVIERA ***** I have attended Grateful Dead concerts that were quieter than the Riviera on a Saturday night, but minor hearing loss is a small price to pay for first-rate food in a charming setting. A green salad was nicely set off by sherry vinaigrette, and came with a delectable goat cheese crouton Sun-dried tomato and smoked bell pepper soup was satisfying, if heavy on the bacon. Norwegian salmon and sea scallops steamed with white wine and served with a light rosemary sauce was one of the best treatments of salmon I’ve ever tasted Ana duck breast with intensely flavored lavender and honey sauce was worthwhile, too. For dessert the creditable, very buttery-tasting Grand Marnier creme brulee was outshone by the ethereally light apple tart with almond cream and caramel sauce 7709 Inwood. 351-0094 Sun-Thur 6;30 pm-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30 pm-11 pm. All credit cards. Expensive to very expensive.



GERMAN/EASTERNEUROPE



BOHEMIA * * * * Have you heard the one about Czech food? A week later and you’re hungry again At Bohemia, the attraction is sturdy Eastern European food-like Wiener schnitzel, pork roast, and bread dumplings- served in delicately charming surroundings (lace curtains tulip lamps, Viennese waltzes) Two bonuses: the by-the-glass wines are well chosen, and service is efficient and unobtrusive. With one notable exception (being under a quilt with your sweetie), there is no better place than Bohemia to be on a nippy day. 2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5 30-9:30 pm,Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards Moderate.



CAFE KASHTAN *** A recent dinner visit here was relatively disappointing, but that was mostly because my party was collectively starving and service was excruciatingly slow. However, it also didn’t help that kulebiaka. that utterly satisfying melange of chicken, rice, and mushrooms baked in a pastry shell-wasn’t on the dinner menu Still, the salanka. an intensely flavored broth with bits of beef, sausage, and vegetables accompanied by pirozki. a meat-filled roll, the chicken Kiev, the veal Soblianka with mushroom sauce, and the almond cake with raspberry sauce were appeasingly excellent, 5365 Spring Valley Rd at Montfort. 991-9550 Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards Inexpensive to moderate.



INDIAN



AKBAR **** Old India hands will want to thoroughly explore the byways of this restaurant’s menus That’s plural – there are two of them, the regular menu and the snack bar menu. Although the regular menu is praiseworthy, it is Akbar’s snack bar that conclusively sets it apart from its peers. Snack-bar highlights include aloo tikki. grilled potato cutlets with curred chickpeas; samosa. tender turnovers stuffed with herbed potatoes and peas; and malai kofta, curry, cheese, and vegetable dumplings in a cream and almond sauce 2115 Promenade Center at Coit & Belt Line roads. 235-0260. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm, dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-10 30. Sat & Sun brunch 11-30-2:30 MC. V. AE Inexpensive.



D REVISITS



BOMBAY CURRY HOUSE *** This latest entrant in the local Indian-food derby is small, charming, and well worth seeking out. The £3.95 weekday lunch buffet was well prepared, if shorter on selection than some Indian buf-fels around. At dinner, an appetizer of iamb samosas (turnovers fined with spiced ground lamb and peas) and a dessert of rasmalai (fresh homemade cottage cheese patties) were standouts. However, this is not to discount the virtues of the Tandoori mixed grill, Bombay shrimp curry, and lamb sagwala that came in between. 11613 N Central at Forest. 373-9700. Lunch daily 11-2.30; dinner daily 5.30-10 All credit cards Inexpensive to moderate



CURRY IN, CURRY OUT **** Love the name. Also lovethe food and the prices. This charming little family-runestablishment may be somewhat spartan in appearance, but it is immaculate, and the food thatemerges from the kitchen is well worth a trip to Garland,even if you don’t live nearby. One more incentive;prices are shockingly low. If you’re serious about Indianfood, Curry In. Curry Out is required eating. As thename suggests, meals may be eaten in or carried out.Northwest Crossing Shopping Canter. 1250 Northwest Highway. 681-0087 Tue-Thur 11 am-9 pm. Fri 11am- 10 pm, Sat noon-10 pm. Sun noon-9 pm. ClosedMon. No credit cards, inexpensive.



INDIA PALACE *** I’ve given up on keeping track of the shifting, intricate lineage of who owns which local Indian restaurants, but it doesn’t matter, because they’re all quite good at the moment. India Palace is no exception to this general rule of excellence. Whether you order a la carte or opt for the weekend buffet brunch, you’ll be happy with the food here. India Palace’s exceptionally thoughtful service is a bonus 13360 Preston. 392-0190 Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2, Sat & Sun 11.30-230; dinner Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm.Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



ITALIAN



ALESSIO’S *** If you’re not happy with your meal at Alessios, it will only be because you have failed to apprise the ever-watchful Alessio Franceschetti of any problems Happily, on a recent visit, there were no problems to report Crab cannelloni, an appetizer of the day, was estimable enough to warrant on-the-menu status. Shrimp provencal. with mushrooms and tomatoes, was quite good, if not as seductive The subtly dressed romaine lettuce salad that accompanied entrees was simple perfection. Linguine with shrimp and scallops in a delicately spicy tomato sauce was agreeable, though not as meritorious as the perfectly breaded veal parrnigiana accompanied by buttered, parslied mostaccioli 4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm,Sun & Mon 6-10 pm. MC. V. AE. Moderate to expensive



DlPALMA *** This Italian eat-in/take-out shop/restaurant has been too popular for its own good ever since it opened This means that Zen-like patience is required to have dinner here on weekend nights However, lunch is possible even for extreme Type As The chicken sandwich is a standout-the chicken breast marinated in olive oil. lemon juice, and red peppers is grilled and served on olive oil bread with lettuce, tomato, and vinaigrette. And for dessert, you can hardly 90 wrong with any selection from the pastry cases. 1520 Greenville 824-4500 Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3;dinner Mon-Thur 5-10 30, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE. Moderate.



MOMO’S *** Momo’s is small, plain, and disorganized – none 0t which matters to devotees of its pastas and pizzas. At lunch, mostly pizzas- including a won-dertuiiy forceful-tasing one of tomato, mozzarella and gorgonzola-are available At dinner, the menu is more extensive (Pasta, such as tortelli di spinaci. is a much better idea than veal, which can be dauntingly chewy.) You can have any wine you want at Momo’s as long as you bring it yourself. 9191 Forest Lane. 234-6800. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 am-1:30 pm, dinner Mon-Thur 6-9:30 pm, Fri 6-11 pm. Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:30-9 pm. MC. V Moderate.



NERO’S ITALIAN *** The food is good enough here, but it isn’t great, and it certainly doesn’t come cheap. What, then, accounts for the two-hour waits on weekends? I suspect it’s that ol’ debbil ambience Nero’s is made to order for dates or get-reacquamted-with-your-spouse sessions, at least it your date or spouse is a stylish, ironic character (Diana Vreeland and Catholic-school veterans should feel particularly at home here because of the red walls and the Michael the Archangel lamps.)

There is an extensive menu of pasta, veal, and sea-lood, but the two things to concentrate on are the Italian wine-the selection is great, and the staff well-informed – and the pizza, which comes in both traditional and New Wave varieties 2104 Greenville. 826-6376 Mon-Thur 6-11 pm, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnigh!. Closed Sun MC, V, AE Moderate.



PIZZERIA UNO* * * When the place is packed – which is any time near lunch or dinner – Job-like patience is required of customers. However, to judge from the mobs willing to traverse the far end of Belt Line and suffer the service, serious pizza-seekers care about what’s on the plate, not how long it takes to get there They may have a point: these are terrific buttery-crusted Chicago-style pan pizzas. The menu warns: “Be careful when you order. Each Uno pizza has about twice the food content as the pizzas you are probably accustomed to.’ The menu is right, and the reason is the vertical quantity of ingredients, not the diameter. A regular pizza, which the menu recommends for two, looks smallish when it arrives, but only two would-be wart hogs could finish it in one sitting. 4002 Beit Line. Addison 991-8181. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight. Sun noon-10 MC, V. AS. Moderate.



RISTORANTE SAYINO ***Savino does well on both the congeniality and the food front A recent visit was notable for warm service and commendable versions of spaghetti carbonara, fettuccine with gorgonzola and walnuts, and vitello lonnato, that refreshing combination of veal and tuna sauce 2929 N Henderson. 826-7804 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. Moderate.



D REVISITS

SFIZI ** Sfizi is an odd, rewarding little West End eating establishment. Odd because this presumably Italian restaurant includes nachos among its appetizers; rewarding because its tortellini in cream sauce is one of the best versions in the city Obviously, this is a menu that requires care in ordering the same lunch that featured the aforementioned stellar tortellini also included dull salads and ravioli In any case, prices are low, and the informal setting is pleasant. 1718 Market. 698-9390 Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat noon-2 am. Sun noon 11 pm All credit cards Inexpensive



311 LOMBRDI’S * * * * What is the Italian translation of “good karma’? Our waiter didn’t know, but 311 Lombar-di’s has achieved it. Here, surrounded by the glow created by creamy apricot walls, happy hordes of downtown workers get what may well be the best Italian food in town at reasonable prices. No pasta was visible in the pasta and bean soup, but it was a hearty, herb-enlivened delight anyway. A pizza with leeks, pancetta, goat cheese, and mushrooms could have held its own against New York’s best. The next stop on the menu was good enough to be required eating for potato-philes: potato gnocchi with two sauces (tomato and irresistible gorgonzola) A tender, thin veal cutlet topped with arugula and diced tomatoes was amply immense Dessert of raspberry ice cream and respectable espresso rounded off a repast that was pure pleasure from start to finish, 311 Market. 747-0322. Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight. Fri 11 am-1 am, Sat 5 pm-1 am. Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



JAPANESE/KOBEAN



MR.SUSHI **** Its all raw fish to me. but a number of my friends are dedicated seekers of sushi, and the most serious of them swears by Mr. Sushi. My friend was moved by the “sushi B” dinner – tuna, white meat fish, yellowtail. jumbo clam. shrimp, salmon, smelt egg. salmon egg. cooked egg. and tuna roll – and I was appeased by the sauteed soft-shell crab and perfect shrimp tempura. The Quorum, 4860 Belt Line, Ad-dison. 385-0168. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner Mon-Thur 5.30-10.30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. All credit cards. Moderate.



SHOGUN *** Shogun serves commendable versions of the standards of Japanese cuisine – lightly battered tempura, juicy tenyaki chicken, and fresh-tasting sushi (commonly referred to as “bait” by non-aficionados)- in a pleasingly serene atmosphere The only element of the plentiful, reasonably priced lunch that took me aback was the unidentified soup. For all I know, it was superb by the standards of the East, but it resembled primordial ooze from my Occidental viewpoint This small restaurant is exceptionally pleasant thanks to the quietly efficient service. 5738 Cedar Springs. 351-2281. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sun 5:30-11 All credit cards Moderate.



SUSHI ON McKINNEY *** As a rule, the sushi is a belter bet than the cooKed things at this self-styled friendly post-modern sushi bar,” The atmosphere is lively to the point of freneticism, which is either a refreshing or a disturbing change from the traditionally quiet, subdued atmosphere of local Jaoanese restaurants. 4500 McKinney. 521-0969 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, All credit cards. Moderate.



LUNCH



CITY MARKET **** City Market nas acquired a loyal ’following of downtown habitues hungry for fresh, imaginative soups, salaos sandwiches, and desserts. However, in the past the pleasures of this light, airy, upscale cafeteria were unpredictable. If, lor instance, you loved the marigold mint chicken salad, it might be weeks before you and it were on the premises on the same day Now, with the advent of menus printed every week. City Market regulars can predict with assurance when it will be possible to eat pasta salad with Indonesian peanut sauce or marinated beef salad with multi-colored bell pepoers Whatever else you get. the light, souffle-like apricot-raisin bread pudding should not be missed. 200 LTV Center, 200) Ross. 979-2696. Mon-Fri 7 am-4:30 pm. MC, V. Inexpensive



PACIFIC EXPRESS **** Pacific Express, a chic eighty-e.gf-.t-seat cafeteria, makes the hasty downtown lunch into an art form. I happen to be obsessed with the tuna salad with toasted almonds, grapes, and blue cheese in tarragon mayonnaise, but the smoked chicken salad with toasted walnuts and shallot vermouth mayonnaise nas its devotees, too Other choices include pasta salad, wild rice salad, and several sandwiches. Pacific Place Bidg. 1910 Elm. Suite 103.969-7447. Mon-Fri 8 am-10 am & 11 am-2 pm Closed Sat & Sun No credit cards, personal checks accepted inexpensive



MEXICAN



ANTONIO’S *** Although one has to order with care to assure hitting the Highlights. Antonio’s is worth a trip -for anyone serious about Mexican food Recommended: nachos. which are made with first-class ingredients (black beans white cheese fresh-tasting guacamole. jalapenos and real runny sour cream) rich-tasting black bean soup, shrimp with a sublly nutly pumpkin-seed sauce, coconut flan, and merengue (whipped cream or chocolate ice cream sandwiched between two layers of egg-white pastry). 14849 Inwood (south of Belt Line) Addison 490-9557 Lunch Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm, dinner Mon-Thur A pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11:30pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



CANTINA LAREDO **** A belief shared by many Mex-can food enthusiasts hereabouts is that great Mex car only be found in grungy, time-worn establishments located in the vicinity of Maple Avenue. However holding to this belief would mean missing out on Can-tina Laredo, which is situated in a clean, new building in-yes-Addison Standard Tex-Mex combinations are available here, and they’re quite good, but the comida casera-home-style food-is where the smart money is. Standouts include the tacos al pastor filled with marinated pork, cabrito (baby goat ;c you gringo), mesquite-grilled shrimp with garlic cutter, and red snapper with lime butter. 4546 Beif Line, Aadison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. Moderate.



CASA ROSA *** This has long been a preppy hangout supreme, and in this instance those wall-scrubbed WASPs in Ralph Lauren attire are on to something. From chili con queso to botanas especiales (bean, chicken, and beef nachos. marinated beef strips, and flaulitas with sour cream and guacamole) to the Puerto Vallarta combination (beef taco. enchilada with chili con carne, chicken enchilada with sour cream sauce, and Spanish rice) to praline cheesecake tor dessert, everything (except tor the underdone, too-tomatoey Spanish rice) was well-prepared, if not in the forefront o1 culinary innovation. Inwood Village, Inwood at Lovers Lane. Suite 165-350-5227 Mon-Thur 11 am-3 pm&5-10 pm.Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat 11 am-11 pm Sun 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards Moderate



GENARO’S * * * With its tropical art-deco look. Genaro’s is the prettiest place in town for margarita consumption. Happily, for the most part, the food matches the margaritas Enchiladas Genaro, filled with snapper and crab meat, were extremely gratifying. And even if chicken with |alapeno and lomatillo cream sauce topped with pumpkin seeds arrived sans pumpkin seeds, the accompanying black beans and pea-studded rice were pleasing, anyway And the coconut ice cream was lushly satisfying, as always 5815 Live Oak at SKiIman. 827-9590. Mon-Thur 11 am-10.30 pm, Fri-Sun 11 am-11:30 pm All credit cards. Moderate



MARIO & ALBERTO *** The standards of Mario Leal’s second restaurant don’t seem to have suffered with the opening of a third one- this popular North Dallas spot seemed as fine (and as busy) as ever. Among the main courses, the filete de la casa (tenderloin strongly flavored with garlic, accompanied by lightly fried potato slices) remains a lavorite. Those who crave fa jitas will find a relatively restrained version here-a manageably modest serving, and no sizzling fireworks The Tex-Mex plates continue to run way behind the specialties in excellence Coconut or cinnamon ice cream makes a refreshing dessert. Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ Frwy at Preston. Suite 425. 980-7296 Mon-Thur 11 30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge Alt credit cards Moderate.

MIA’S * * * For lo these many years. I have been hear-mg about the chile rellenos at Mia’s And for fo these many years. I have been missing out on the chile rellenos at Mia’s I would remember that they were available only on Tuesday, but forget they were available only at dinner on Tuesday. I would remember that they were available only at dinner on Tuesday, but they would be sold out Recently, thanks to a kind-hearled waitress who let me have her pre-reserved relleno. I finally tasted the elusive entree, stuffed with ground beef, potato, and raisins, and can report that the result was worth the wait The rest of Mia’s menu is above-average, but it’s the relleno -and the warm service-that make the place worthy of cull status. 4418 Lemmon 526-1020. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. dinner Mon-Fri 5-10, Sat 11 am-10:30 pm No credit cards. Inexpensive to moderate.



RlCARDO’S *** This latest in the area’s supply of “Miami Vice”-style Mexican restaurants offering (pretty pastel settings and tropically influenced food) proves that there is gastronomic civilization even as one travels so far north as to sight the Oklahoma border. 17610 Midway at Trinity Mills. 931-5073. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11.Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. Moderate.



UNCLE JULIO’S * * The decor is heavy on pink and purple, and the food is notable more for its quantity -portions range from generous to immense – than for its quality One notable exception, the tamales. which are available with pork and with chicker,. are excellent Beware, however, of the mesquite-grilled speciallies, which are overwhelmingly woody tasting. 4125 Lem-monAve. 520-6620 Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri &Sat 11-11 MC, V. AE. Moderate



D REVISITIS

VlLLA MARGARITA * * * If you were just tooling around in the Coil-Belt Line area, chances are that you’d miss Villa Margarita unless you knew it was there. This is a shame, because VM is one of the best Mexican restaurants north of LBJ Here, in pretty pastel surroundings you can have some of the best nachos (with black beans, white cheese, and sour cream) to be had in these parts. After the nachos. the standard Tex-Mex is line, but prefer the tender, flavorful carne asada. 362 Promenade Center. Coit & Belt Line. Richardson. Mon-Tbur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-9 pm. MC, V, AE. Moderate.



SEAFOOD



AW SHUCKS ** Although the “tried thangs”-oysters and shrimp-that are the featured attraction at this relaxed restaurant are splendid, one does tend to feel in need of a shower after eating at Aw Shucks But if you can handle the inherent grease factor involved in dining at an establishment fitted out with a battery of deep-fat fryers. Aw Shucks is a worthwhile destination One exception to the rule of quality here is the fat French fries, which have hardly any flavor 3601 Greenville. 821-9449, 4535 Maple 522-4498: Village at Bachman Lake, 3701 W Northwest Hwy, Suite 310. 350-9777 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am11. Sun noon-9 pm at Northwest Hwy location. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. Sun 11 30am-9 pm at Maple and Greenville locations MC. V Inexpensive.



CAFE PACIFlC ***** There are a lot of first-rate waiters working in Dallas, but Don at Cafe Pacific has to be in the very top rank Even if the food hadn’t been as close to perfection as mere mortals can approach, his courtly but never pretentious manner and ability to be there exactly when you need him would still have made a recent lunch at Cafe Pacific a pleasure All the same. Chinese chicken salad and a daily special of red snapper with a julienne of snow peas were all that they could and should have been Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24 526-1170 Lunch Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30, Sun 10:30-2.30: dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards.Expensive.



NEWPORT’S* * * * When Newport’s hits, as it did on an order of trout amandine on my last visit, it’s as good as any seafood restaurant in town. Unfortunately, on this same visit, swordfish kebabs were below par. However, such instances are anomalies in my experience. Which is a good thing, because unlike its competitors for serious seafood-Allantic Cafe and Cafe Pacific – Newport’s cant rely on a gorgeous setting (the vast, woody setting is merely inoffensive) or polished service (the waiter was bungling). 703 McKinney in the Brewery 954-0220 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards Expensive.



SOUTHERN



ChAISE LOUNGE **** This Is The Place Your Mother Warned You About,” says the sign outside. The food served inside this dark roadhouse is swell’ corn and conch chowder, pan-fried trout, and rice and raisin pudding with heavy cream are transcendently noteworthy. If you don’t like to rock out to Cajun music, either go for lunch or sit in the kitchen at dinner. 3010 N Henderson. 823-1400- Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 4 pm-2 am. MC, V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



HIGHLAND PARK CAFETEMIA **** Standing in line at HPC and moving past the portraits of the presidents is a ritual of unmatched resonance in Dallas dining. HPC is a treasured local institution, from the Southern classics on the menu to the line staff, some of whom have been on the job for decades Perhaps as a result, many regulars believe that heaven itself will resemble HPC, with hairnetted attendants querying. “Serve you?” and booths always available. The menu on cloud nine ham or chicken-fried steak, green beans, mashed potatoes and cream gravy, a jalapeno corn muffin, and cherry cobbler. The Addison and downtown branches have their virtues, but they don’t reproduce the allure of the original Knox Street location. 4611 Cole, 526-3801; Village on the Parkway, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy. Suite 600, 934-8800 M, downtown, 500 Akard at San Jacinto, Suite 220, 740-2400. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm at Cole location. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm, Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Village on the Parkway location; Mon-Fri 6:30 am-2 pm at downtown location No credit cards. MC, V, AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $ 10 Inexpensive.



ROSEMARIE’S **** In the days when I toiled at The Dallas Morning News, one of my prescriptions for a bad morning was a quick trip across the bridge to Oak Cliff tor lunch at Rosemaries. These days, I don’t make it to Rosemarie’s quite so often, but when I do. it’s like old-home week. Rosemarie Hudson never forgets a customer, and her warmth accounts in part for the fanatical loyalty this little cafeteria-style operation inspires; the terrific chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, yeast rolls, and peanut butter pie also might have something to do with it. 1411NZang 946-4142. Mon-Fri 11-2. No credit cards. Inexpensive.



STEAKS



DEL FRISCO’S ***** In this age of Perrier, fish, and steamed vegetables, every so often it is important to balance the system with red wine, beef, and baked potatoes. Del Frisco’s, a straight-ahead steak house with premium fare and prices to match, is made for just such occasions. An appetizer of shrimp remoulade was as good a version as you’ll find this side of New Orleans (which happens to be where owner Del Frisco hails from). I was quite happy with my softball-sized eight-ounce filet until I tasted the twelve-ounce rib-eye that my partner in cholesterol had ordered. This was a steak to remember-a supremely flavorful piece of meat. Some things to bear in mind: your steak will arrive in a pool of melted butter unless you nix this idea. Side dishes are ordered a la carte, and in portions immense enough for four. And bread pudding fans are advised to plan their meal to allow for Del Frisco’s version with raisins, coconut, and Jack Daniel’s sauce. 4300iemmon 526-2101. Mon-Thur 5 pm-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5 pm-9 pm. All credit cards. Expensive.



LAWRY’S THE PRINE RlB **** Finding myself once again on the verge of the big NB (nervous breakdown), I decided on dinner at Lawry’s The only choices are prime rib, prime rib, and prime rib-in three cuts-so 1he stress of ordering is minimal. And the fare is hardcore comfort food that takes 1he overwrought diner back a couple of decades to the Sunday-dinner fare of a simpler time. The beef was tender and flavorful, and the accompaniments- including a salad of Romaine, iceberg, and watercress; mashed’ potatoes; and creamed spinach – were admirable At lunch there are also chicken, fish, and salad options, but prime rib is the point here At lunch or dinner, the look of Lawry’s is surreally baronial, with lapestry and massive furniture abounding. 3008 Maple 521-7777 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri 6-11:30, Sat 5:30-11:30. Sun 5-10; Sun brunch 11:30-2. All credit cards Expensive.



TAKEOUT



CRESCENT GOURMET *** The Crescent Gourmet offers some of the best baked goods in town for breakfast. The croissants. Danishes, and muffins are done right-and on the premises Any of the aforementioned, along with fresh-squeezed juice, would start any day right A] lunch, there are plenty of reasonably priced sandwiches and salads to choose from, including the knockout pizzas served next door at Beau Nash. 400 Crescent Court. Suite 150. Maple at McKinney, 871-3223. Mon-Fri 7 am-5:30 pm. Sat 10:30 am-3 pm Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate



EVERVDY GOURMET ***** This is the takeout establishment that I’ve been waiting for-or it would be, if only it kept later hours. The food is homey in the best sense, but never tastes amateurish. The fare changes, but peerless meat loaf and chicken salad are two standards, and the prices tor this simple perfection are reasonable. 4446 Lovers Lane. 373-0325, Mon-Fri 7:30 am-7pm, Sat 8 am-5:30 pm. MC. V. AE. Inexpensive to moderate.



D REVISITS



MARTY’S **** Dallas’s longest established gourmet yuppeteria continues to offer the rarest of commoditie thoughtful advice Therefore, when dinner and accompanying wine must be acquired speedily. I tend to turn to Marty’s. The last such last-minute foray resulted in vegetables vinaigrette, moussaka, German potato salad, apple-walnut cobbler, and a bottle of Sausal Zin-fandel. All the elements of this meal were individually pleasing and colleclively wonderful. 3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 30 pm Closed Sun All credit cards. Marly’s charge. Expensive.



VIETNAMESE



SAIGON **** Situated where Yolanda’s used to be on Lowest Greenville. Saigon is definitely the be looking Vietnamese restaurant in town. It also promises to be the best Vietnamese restaurant in town, period. Everything I tried on three visits was impressive, but the intriguing-sounding shrimp wrapped around sugar cane was particularly laudable As usual at Vietnamese restaurants. !he beverages of choice are fresh lemonade and/or iced coffee 1731 Greenville. 828-9795 Tue-Thur 11 am-10 pm.Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10. All credit cards. Inexpensive



LAS COLINS/MID CITIES



CaCHAREL**** This pretty establishment with a glassed-in exhibition kitchen has a fixed price of $10 for lunch and $22 for dinner. The fare-including such Gallic classics as green salad with goat cheese, asparagus soup, scallops with an assertive tarragon sauce, and iamb with a natural-Juice sauce- would be worth twice the tariff Brookhollow Two. 2221 E Lamar. Suite 910. Arlington. 640-9981 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. dinner Mon-Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. Moderate



CEDARS VILLAGE CAFE **** I am still trying to figure out how it took longer (specifically, just under an hour) to get from Dallas to Arlington than from Dallas to Fort Worth. All turnpike travail aside the voyage to Cedars Village Cafe resulted in food that was well worth the effort hummus (a dip of pureed chickpeas served with pita bread); potato salad (dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, and garlic); grape leaves stuffed with rice and ground sirloin; falafel (fried bails of mashed, seasoned chickpeas); and rosewater-flavored rice pudding topped with pine nuts There is a “light’ lunch special that offers a choice of appetizer, entree, and salad for $3.89 that is one of the great bargains in the Metroplex 5801 Green Oaks Plaza. Suite 360. 5801 WI-20. Arlington. (817)483-1988. Mon-Thur 11-3 & 5-W, Fri &Sat 11-11. Sun noon-5. All credit cards. Inexpensive.



FORT WORTH



LE ChARDONNAY * * * * Former Ceret chef Philip Lecoq is a co-owner of this new bistro, and its combination of serious food and an informal atmosphere is reminiscent of that late, lamented establishment The lamb chops topped with goat cheese, served with a rosemary sauce and accompanied by herbed French fries, are a standout. 2443 Forest Park Blvd. Fort Worth. (817) 926 5622 Mon-Thur11.30am-10pm.Fri 11:30am-10 pm. Sat 6 pm-10 pm. Sun 11 am-2.30 pm MC, V Moderate



SAINT-EMILION* * * * Considering the four-course fixed price o1 $20 per person, it’s surprising that more Dallasites don’t make the trek to Saint Emilion The last time I did. the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leaf lettuce, radicchio. watercress, walnuts, and bus of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start (Order the last with the boneless quail and you’ve got the snail-and-quail special) Juicy swordfish provencal and nicely roasted ouck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for (Actually, one could ask that the duck be boned ) For dessert, pass on the fluffy, lightweight chocolate mousse and opt for the extraordinary creme caramel. 3617 W Seventh (817) 737-2781. Mon-Fri 11.30 am-2 pm & 6-10 pm. Sat 6-10 pm Closed Sun. MC, V. AE Moderate.



NIGHTLIFE



ADAIR’S. The great old beer joint of Dallas continues to pull in its rednecks, loud-mouthed attorneys, chic city women who act country, and all around fun-loving people who like to drink beer and spill it on the pool tables Since Adair’s moved to its Deep Ellum location, cynics have been predicting its demise But the half-pound hamburgers and whiny jukebox still draw a crowd 2624 Commerce 939-9900. Mon-Sat 10 am-2 am. Closed Sun No credit cards.



BOILER ROOM. Walk inside and it’s easy to see how this bar got its name: it’s the actual boiler room of !he old Sunshine Biscuit Company However, this has nothing to do with its popularity as a dance club and the best new singles bar close to downtown Some may feel inhibited dancing in front of the floor-to-ceiling windows next to the dance floor; others wont want to leave Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603 Munger 988-0581. Daily noon-2 am. MC, V. AE.



BOWLEY & WILSON’S, lf you’re looking for a place to have your church social, don’t come here Not tor the faint of heart or timid of ear, Bowley and Wilson dish out hysterical music and humor that landed them m jail on one occasion If you’re looking for a reasonably priced humor-filled evening Bowley & Wilson and the Blue Bathroom Humor Band are for you. You can win tree drinks by being a good sport when they ask you to join in the act. Win free Kamikazes by successfully singing “Old Ben Lucas” in front of the audience 4714 Greenville 692-6470. Tue-Sat 7:30 pm-2 am. Show starts at 9:30 Cover varies. MC. V. AE.



CLUB DADA. You may recognize the name from the avant-garde performing group, Victor Dada. That’s because three of the members opened it, and it does have an eclectic style: new music and jazz and nightly versions of “performance art ” One of our favorites is the “Word of the Day,” or ’Monday Night Feedback,” where an improv learn gives its own version of Monday Night Football. 2720 Elm at Crowdus 744-4012. Daily 8 pm-2 am MC. V, AE.



DlCK’S LAST RESORT. The customers of this restaurant/bar spend most of their time saying, over and over. “Excuse me.” The place is usually standing room only, and with good reason. It’s a fun bar offering live Dixieland music, bench seating, and decent food that comes in a buck-el As the West End grows, so will the crowds. But not at Dicks-they can’t get any bigger, floss at Record. 747-0001 Mon-Thur 11.30 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11.30 am-2 am. Sun 1 pm-midnight. MC, V. AE. DC.



EMRELD ClTY. We have no idea why one of the most popular dance bands in Dallas, Emerald City, decided that the name of its new nightclub would be spelled differently than the band’s own name Nor did we understand when the club’s manager labeled the dub’s hot pink-and-black interior as “erotic art deco” And we know what a gamble it is for the same band to play one nightclub five nights a week, three weeks a month, and hope to keep drawing larger crowds. But Emerald City, which has been playing in Dallas for seven years, can put together a super-charged set – and it’s worth a trip. 4908 Greenville. 361-2489. Sun-Thur 8 pm-2 am. Fri & Sat 7 pm-2 am. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE.



ETCETERA. Think of all the names this hot North Dallas bar has been called: Papagayo. In Cahoots, etc Oh, wait. The last one is actually the name of the bar now. and it’s the latest one to attract long customer lines. It’s hot for all the right reasons search lights outside cross the sky, waitresses slink by in hand-painted uniforms, a dress code encourages expensive clothes, and most important, it’s the newest place on the street. 8796 N Central Expwy, in NorthPark East. 692-5417. Mon-Thur 4:30 pm-2 am. Fri 4:30 pm-3 am, Sat 8 pm-3 am. Sun 8 pm-2 am MC. V.AE.



FAST &COOL Fast & Cool is undisputably the King of Lower Greenville. The music here is predominantly Motown sound and authentic soul from artists like James Brown and Ike and Tina Turner. The dance floor is the center of this tiny universe, and it has a magnetic effect on anyone who walks in the door. It’s hard to imagine even the most hard-core Baptist resisting this dance floor Unlike countless dance clubs that have come and gone on Greenville Avenue, this place has staying power. 3606 Greenville. 827-5544 Sun & Tue-Thur 8 pm-2 am, Fri & Sat 7-4. Closed Mon. Cover S3 Thur; $4 Fri & Sat MC. V.AE.



FAT TUESDAY. You can laissez les bon temps roulez in this spacious pleasure barn, though even a healthy crowd seems swallowed up here. The Mardi Gras mood is enhanced by the huge, festive masks that adorn the walls, especially the striking sun mask that smiles over the bar-our first nomination for the Dallas Museum of Nightclub Art. Ultimately, of course, the Bourbon Street spirit depends on sprints, and Fat Tuesday delivers. More than a dozen high-octane mixtures churn perpetually in blenders; the aptly named Crawgator, a house specialty, mixes three kinds of rum, brandy, and juices. The Cajun buffet-all the jambalaya and chicken wings you want tor $2-is satisfactory. 6778 Greenville. 373-7377. Daily 11 am-2 am. MC, V. AE.



IMPROV. Everybody loves a clown, and of late some of the funniest folks in the show-biz circus have been splitting sides at the Improv. Dallas’s newest comedy club. A cousin of the famed LA nightspot, the club takes its name from that gutsy, gonzo brand of comedy that reached its zenith with Robin Williams wherein the comic plays without a net, relying as much on crowd response, retort, and insult as on any set repertoire. When it works, the payoff can be explosive, awe-inspiring. On our visit, funnyman Byron Allen (of TV’s -Real People”) provided 1he yuks. feeding off the audience (with mixed results) and mining a rather dated vein of he-she humor. The opening act, juggler Daniel Rosen, broke every law of physics by juggling a “Swiss army cat” festooned with razor-sharp blades 9810 N Central Expwy (in the Corner Shopping Center). 750-5868 Showtimes Sun-Thur 8:30 pm, Fn&Sa!8:30 & 10:45 MC. V, AE



LEGENDS, The “legends” here are the least interesting thing about the club- names of Texas sports figures like Bob Lilly. A J. Foyt. and Babe Didrikson circle the bar in a mock-up of Texas Stadium’s Ring of Honor. More interesting are the dance doors, one is a regulation boxing ring (which will also feature karate and boxing exhibitions) The other is a miniature baseball diamond, which will no doubt spawn endless jokes about scoring and striking out But if this successor to the old Cafe Dallas proves to be more than a Greenville mayfly, credit will go to the banks of television screens that alternate rock videos with vintage sports footage and live sporting events. It’s quite a novelty to see Magic Johnson and David Lee Roth airborne at once, or to watch Sandy Koufax firing a hummer past the head of Cyndi Lauper. Brush her back, Sandman, brush her back, Old Town. 5500 Greenville 987-0067. Mon-Fri 3 pm-2 am.Sat&Sun 11 30-2 am MC. V.AE.



THE LOUNGE. Want to throw down a beer with young intelligentsia? Here’s what you do: first, dress chic, but don’t let it look elegantly chic. Casual chic is the style here (unless you’re in the New Wave crowd and you come in so everyone can have a look at what they’ve been told is “gloriously outrageous” fashion) Then, you’d better see one of those foreign movies playing next door at the Inwood Theatre so you’ll have something to talk about at the bar And you’d better show a little poise. This is as close as Dallas gets to one of those sophisticated, high-tech upper West Side bars in New York where you wish you could eavesdrop on the conversation at every table. 5460 W Lovers Lane. 350-7834. Sun-Thur 5 pm-1 am, Fri & Sat 5 pm-2 am. AE, DC, CB.



MARIANO’S, Mariano’s claim to have invented the margarita, like so much else in this world, must be taken on faith But if they didn’t create the drink here, you couldn’t tell it from sampling the Mercedes or Papa Mariano’s Recipe, a delightful marriage of Cuervo and Cointreau. A few of these beauties and a plate of the Mexi-canapes (with flautas, a feisty stuffed jalapeno. etc ) and you’ll gladly overlook the cheesy pastel portraits of local sports, entertainment, and media celebs that ring the cantina. Old Town. 5500 Greenville. 691-3888. Mon-Wed 4 pm-midmght, Thur & Fri 4 pm-2 am, Sal & Sun noon-2 am. MC, V, AE.



MEMPHIS. Don’t let the tiny dance floor (literally about the size of a two-door foreign car) and the dark hue of the bar disturb you. People dance in the aisles, on the chairs, by the bar – mainly because this is the best live jazz-dance bar in North Dallas. Great local groups are regulars-like Emerald City and Schwartz Lefantz. Quorum Plaza, 5000 Belt Line, Suite 500. 386-9517. Sun-Thur 11 am-2 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am. Cover $3-$5. All credit cards.



MISTRAL The all-slick, high-tech dance club with the video screen larger than the side of a barn has gone completely “new music,” which is a nice way of saying that the music is not pop and we can’t always figure out if the song has a tune. But hey. we’re hip. and this crowd, especially early in the week, is truly hip (which means everyone wears androgynous black clothing with hair that is a cross between astronaut crewcut and Johnny Rotten). But you’ll still find your basic sprinkling of suburbanites and hotel guests who come in to gawk at the music videos and the twenty-year-olds who sing along to hits by such charming groups as The Fine Young Cannibals. Loews Anatole. 2201 Stemmons. 760-9000. Tue 8 pm-3 am. Wed 8 pm-3 am. Thur 8 pm-2 am. Fri 8 pm-4 am, Sat 8 pm-4 am. Cover $5 Thur & Fri. $10 Sat. Ail credit cards.



NO WHAR BUT TEXAS. This place may be the most casual of the big country/western bars. No one seems to care if you can’t dance or drawl. And you’ll still find great North Dallas cowboys and cowgirls on and around the huge dance floor. The Corner Shopping Center, 9640 N Central Expwy. Suite 340 369-3866. Mon-Fri 6 pm-2 am, Sat 7 pm-2 am, Sun 6 pm-2 am. Cover vanes. All credit cards



PINOT’S WINE BAR. You want wine by the glass, this is the place to get it – twenty-one varieties, ranging in price tram $2.50 to $21 a glass. (If you’re trying to check out all twenty-one in one night, the half-glass option might be advisable.) There is a menu, and it’s more than passable, if less than awe-inspiring, but wine, not food, is the lure here. Pkiol’s setting is closer to plain than plush, which doesn’t seem to bother in the least the wine and restaurant business crowd that gravitates here, 2926 N Henderson. 826-1949. Daily 2 pm-midnight. MC. V. AE.



PLAZA BAR. It’s |ust like the name implies, a plaza (hat opens to the alley of Dallas Alley, offering indoor and outdoor seating, with food service from two different restaurants. This is a great place to have a casual conversation and drink, or meet friends before tackling the West End for the night. Part of the Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603 Munger. 988-0581 Daily 11 am-2am. MC, V.AE.



PLUS FOURS, McKinney Avenue provides a sophisticated gathering spot for a group other than the yuppies. With an English-styled, woody interior, it almost seems that the ’intelligent” thing to do is watch the non-stop sports you find on the bar’s televisions. Plus Fours’ English motif has proved to be immensely popular. There’s also great Sinatra music on the jukebox. 2504 McKinney 871-2757. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am. Sat 12.30 pm-2 am Closed Sun All credit cards.



PROHIBITION ROOM. Long regarded as the place in the basement next door to the Starck Club, the Prohibition Room has developed an aura of its own For one reason, it has begun to regularly draw some of the top local bands, like Robert Lee Kolb When you enter. you’ll think it’s another pool-and-shuffleboard bar, but when you run out of quarters, go to the back by the stage and listen to an evening’s worth of fine music 703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-4407. Mon-Fri 4 pm-2 am, Sat 6 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. MC, V.AE.



STUCK CLUB. A lot of people have been wondering: will Starck survive “the bust”? Will it survive the opening of more and more West End bars? True, it’s only open Thursday through Sunday now, but we’re happy to report that the bar that taught us how to go to the bathroom together is still going strong. Which only goes to prove, there is life without ecstasy. 703 McKin-ney in the Brewery. 720-0130. Thur & Sun 9 pm-2 am; Fri & Sat 9pm-4am Closed Mon-Wed. Cover $5 Thur & Sun alter 9 pm, $10 Fri & Sat All credit cards.



STATE BAR. One sign of a bar’s success is the sighting of T-shirts emblazoned with its logo on the persons of its patrons and would-be patrons. By that standard. Stale Bar is nearly as successful as the Hard Rock Cafe. What has made State Bar’s martini-glass trademark omnipresent is simple: this is a bar (or low-key Bohemians who want to have civilized conversation while gazing out picture windows facing the fairgrounds across the street. The subdued lighting and moderate volume of the music make this possible. All in all, the effect is of a gallery opening without the pictures. 3611 Parry. 821-9246. Mon-Fri 11 am-2am, Sat noon-2am. Sun 6 pm-2 am MC, V.AE.



STRCTLY TABU, Tuesday through Sunday, this popular |azz club/restaurant answers the burning question: how many people can you put into a small, smoke-filled, rectangular room? If the jazz weren’t excellent here, they wouldn’t put the bands in the front window for all to see. Bring an appetite for Italian food if you’re going to arrive late. Chances are the restaurant upstairs is the only place you’ll find to sit Lomo Alto at Lemmon Avenue. 528-5200. Tue-Thur 6 pm-2 am. Fri & Sat 6 pm-2 am, Sun 6 pm-2 am. Closed Mon MC. V.AE.



STUDEBAKER’S. Can this good-times emporium be slipping so soon into senescence? Say it ain’t so, Elvis. Actually, news of Studebaker’s demise may be greatly exaggerated. True, new clubs have cut deeply into its crowds, the patrons are older and less chic than before But the passion for nostalgia seems undying, so aging rock lovers still gather at such shrines to bop and stroll their way to bliss. The non-stop mix of cutesy rock (“Hand Jive.” “Hokey-Pokey,” etc ), Motown, and the old gold of various Frankies and Bobbies can still pack ’em in. And don’t forget the generous happy hour buffet NorthPark East, 8788 N Central Expwy. 696-2475. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat 7 pm-2 am. Sun 5 pm-2 am MC. V. AE.



TAKE 5. Chefs will tell you that a fine dinner will taste better if it looks good. If that holds true for music, then the jazz in this bar will sound great. Take 5 has a sophisticated look done in black and live music at a level that lets you enioy talking to the person across the table. And. unlike many clubs, there is more time devoted to music than breaks. Part of Dallas Alley in the West End Marketplace. 603Munger. 988-0581. Daily 5 pm-2 am. MC, V, AE.



TerILLI’S. Ah, yes, that great Lower Greenville tradition-sipping wine, eating Italian, and listening to that smooth, soft kind of jazz that makes you start snapping your fingers like Mel Torme Wait a minute! This is on Lower Greenville? Goodness, class is popping up everywhere. With the kind of black-and-white art deco decor that looks super expensive, a cozy bar area where you can meet someone who is (incredibly) not in real estate, and live jazz groups every night except Monday, you can actually drink something other than beer and not worry if others are making fun of you. 2815 Greenville 827-3993. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 am, Sun 11 am-2 am. MC, V, AE.



FORT WORTH NIGHTLIFE



BlLLY BOB’S TEXAS. This huge country/western club in the Fort Worth Stockyards has a lot going for it: two restaurants, forty-two bar stations, a real bull-riding arena, and several shops. It’s bigger than Gilley’s. more citified than the Longhorn Ballroom ever was, and a “must-see” if you’re in Fort Worth 2520 Rodeo Plaza in the Stockyards. Metro 429-5979. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun noon-2 am MC. V.AE.



THE BLUE BUD. Even when the band’s not playing, you’ll feel like dancing at The Blue Bird: the jukebox is the best in Fort Worth. But then, the patrons don’t want that to get around, they know a good thing when they’ve found it. The club is packed nearly every weekend with regulars dancing to the infectious music of Robert Ealey and the Bluesblasters 5636 Wellesley. (817) 732-6243. Fri & Sat 8 pm-2 am. Wo credit cards.



CARAVAN OF DREAMS. Caravan of Dreams, which covers three floors of a chic Sundance Square building, has excellent live jazz/blues (and a bar) on the first floor, a theater with movies and live drama (and a bar) on the second floor, and an outdoor patio with a cactus garden (and a bar) on the roof. 312 Houston. (817) 877-3000. Wed-Fri 5 pm-2 am. Sat 7 pm-2 am. Sun 6 pm-midnight. ClosedMon &. Tue Cover for shows only. MC, V. AE, DC



THE HOP. In three words, The Hop is warm, woody, and wonderful. It has the air of a typical college hangout (it’s just one block from TCU), but lacks the cutesy crowd or trendy atmosphere. A stage tucked in the corner features national and local bands, with music ranging from reggae to rock. Although all the food is good, none of it can surpass the pizza. 2905 W Berry. (817) 923-7281. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun 4 pm-2 am. MC. V. AE



THE WHITE ELEPHANT SALOON. in 1887, Luke short, then the owner of the White Elephant, shot it out with a formerU.S. marshal Today, the Elephant has country/westernmusic six nights a week and lots of tourists tryingdesperately to learn the two-step on a small dancefloor. 106 E Exchange. (817) 624-8273. Mon-Sat noon-2 am, Sun noon-midnight. Happy hour: Mon-Fri4 pm-7 pm. MC, V, AE.

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