NEW GAME IN TOWN

Too cute to eat” is the first phrase that comes to mind. So perhaps it’s just as well that we’ve opted to show you axis venison “after,” on the plate at Routh Street Cafe, rather than “before,” on the hoof on ranches near San Antonio.

Axis venison-a delicate-looking native Indian species first imported to Texas in the Thirties, which was formerly sold only to restaurants-is now available to the public by mail order from the Texas Wild Game Cooperative. Happily for those of us who are only interested in indoor sports, this means that the glories of game-one of the great gastronomic pleasures of autumn-can be enjoyed without spending the day in a deer blind. Not only does axis venison have more culinary cachet than boring old beef, it also has a mere one-third the calories and one-eighth the fat of beef, according to a Texas A&M analysis. Because axis venison range free and feed on native grasses, the exotic little beasts are free of antibiotics, hormones, and steroids.

Stephan Pyles, chef-proprietor of Routh Street Cafe, appreciates the health benefits of axis venison, but he says that’s not why he features it regularly on his menu. “It’s a statement that I like to make in using Texas products,” he says. “It’s very expensive [a $7 surcharge is added to the $42 per person fixed price], but people are willing to pay for it and it sells. It’s extremely tender and has a very mild flavor. Generally, we take the loin and simply grill it whole without a marinade-unlike most game, axis venison doesn’t need a marinade or a long cooking time. Then we slice it and serve it with some kind of sauce that incorporates a venison stock reduction. Ancho chiles and tamarind is one sauce we like a lot. We usually serve it with a sweet potato pancake or a sweet potato tamale, but wild rice is good with it. too.”

Axis deer is available by the leg or shoulder roast or by the pound in cubes, sausage, hamburger, or coarsely ground chili meat. Information, a price list, and recipes are available from Texas Wild Game Cooperative, P.O. Box 530, Ingram, Texas 78025. Call (512) 367-5875 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday to place an order.