DINING OUT CITY CAFE’S URBANE RENEWAL

City Cafe



Over the course of dinner at City Cafe, I heard a woman make the following admiring observation to her tablemates: “I’ve had a totally crappy day, but this place has turned it around. I feel wonderful now.” This is one definition of a great restaurant-and, even in the first few weeks after it opened, City Cafe had all the hallmarks of a great restaurant.

First there is the setting: handsomely urbane in a clean-lined, low-key way, The long, rectangular room with lace curtains and forest green carpet looks equally good during the day and at night (an achievement that very few restaurants can claim). The kitchen is open, but doesn’t demand attention. At night both the lighting and the recorded classical music are subdued (which makes City Cafe the solution to the problem of my shy friend who wanted to take a date to a place that is romantic, but not obviously romantic). One caveat: African violets and handsome Adams Veruschka china make the tables look great, but the tables themselves are a problem-they are of the dreaded thigh-cutter variety.

Then there is the food; City Cafe’s menu changes weekly. This is a positive indicator of creativity in the kitchen, and a boon to regulars, even if it does mean that one may or may not ever get to taste a hauntingly ambrosial dish again. Perfectly pan-fried Idaho brook trout dredged in corn meal was such a dish. So was the sweet, subtle fresh tomato soup, which seems to be a constant on the menu.

Even if I haven’t been haunted by the following, an appetizer of bacon-wrapped oysters bro-chette and entrées of Nicoise salad, pan-fried free-range chicken, fillet of sole with lemon butter, and chicken hash with poached eggs were beyond reproach. Desserts-among them blueberry crumble, coconut cream tart, sugar pie garnished with strawberries, and chocolate fudge torte with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream-were uniformly praiseworthy. I have to single out the extraordinarily light carrot cake because it is the only non-leaden representative of its kind that I’ve had in recent memory.

In the context of such excellence, several dishes that would have been the highlights of meals at lesser restaurants seemed merely satisfactory: black bean soup that was a bit stodgy-tasting; a vegetable ter-rine that didn’t manage to surpass the limitations of the concept; a green salad that, while nicely dressed with vinaigrette, could have used some variety of lettuce content. The single thing I tried at City Cafe that was less than satisfactory was a murky-tasting pob-lano/red pepper/tortilla soup.

The ail-American wine list is well-chosen and reasonably priced, and the availability of thirteen wines by the glass is a bonus for the relatively abstemious. The white-aproned, bow-tied waiters were uniformly well-intentioned if not uniformly efficient. They were also uniformly male-a reactionary practice too common in the city’s toniest restaurants.

Possible sexism aside. City Cafe’s prices are delightfully reasonable. Lunch with no wine, including tip, runs $25; dinner with a couple of glasses of wine $60. In Dallas, one could easily spend twice as much money for half as much pleasure. City Cafe is the kind of eating establishment that makes me grateful for the combined influence of the New American Cuisine and the Square Meals movement. It conclusively demonstrates that while French food-long considered to be the ultimate in gustatory glory-is all well and good, the considerable and satisfying rewards of native pride are not to be undervalued. (5757 W Lovers Lane (just west of Dallas N Tollway). 351-2233. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



Beau Nash



When Beau Nash opened, I had high hopes that it would “make it new,” to use E.M. Forster’s description of the novelist’s task. In fact, what Beau Nash seems to have done is make it Spago again. Wolfgang Puck of L.A.’s influential Spago is a consultant, and Puck-trained Steve Singer is chef. All of which would have been exciting three or four years ago, when California-influenced cuisine, with its attendant offbeat pizzas and emphasis on grilled things, was just making its way to Dallas, but is hardly gastronom-ically groundbreaking in 1986.

Having said that, it must also be said that nearly everything ] have eaten at Beau Nash, at least after some shakiness in the first few weeks, has been perfectly prepared. Two everything-but-the-kitchen-sink New Wave pizzas, for instance, were terrific: pizza with smoked salmon, sour cream, lemon, dill, red onion, and golden caviar and pizza with pheasant sausage, cilantro, shitake mushrooms, red chile flakes, green onions, and yellow bell peppers. Brunch-time eggs Benedict with grilled pancetta on sourdough toast with tomato herb hollandaise was a swell variation on the classic concept that was equally satisfying.

Soups of the day are a good idea, to judge from the mellow lobster bisque that 1 tried. This preceded a dinner of perfectly roasted duck with a burnished ginger-plum sauce. On the waterfront, the news was also good. Grilled swordfish with a gingery relish was beyond reproach, if not quite as appealing as the salmon with fennel and dill butter. Because of its texture, red snapper is not one of my favorite fishes, but Beau Nash’s grilled red snapper with fresh herbs and lemon butter was about as good as red snapper gets.

The exceptions to excellence at Beau Nash included the brunch-lime appetizer of Chinese dim sum that brought the words “Chun King” to mind; the vinaigrette on a salad of radicchio. arugula, and baby red leaf lettuce that was so tart as to be nearly inedible, and the beef carpaccio in a pungent mustard sauce that would have been great except that the beef appeared to have been sliced with a dull ax.

All disappointments were redeemed, however, with dessert. Beau Nash’s desserts change daily, but if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to get one of the pies: rhubarb raspberry, blackberry buttermilk custard, and sweet potato-pecan were all dy-no-mite. The assorted homemade ice creams and sorbets were superb and made even more pleasurable by their accompanying cookies (chocolate chip, sesame shortbread, and gingersnap).

In sum, Beau Nash is already in the ranks of Dallas’ best, if not its most innovative, restaurants. But then again, not everyone demands culinary innovation, proof of which is evidenced by Beau Nash’s current status as the hottest lunch ticket in town. (This means that reservations are essential.)

I suspect that its popularity has much to do with the relaxed character of the place, as evidenced in dress code, decor, and service. Dress code: ties are not required for men (in happy contrast to Beau Nash’s corporate sibling, the Mansion, where the rule is strictly enforced). Decor: with its mahogany columns, hand-painted ceiling, and mega-palm trees, the look of the place is that of a tropical brasserie on a Texas scale. The kitchen is open (revealing the kitchen staff at work in foolish-looking driving-cap-style hats). One pitfall: the glassed-in conservatory to the side of the main room, so sunny and desirable at lunch, becomes dark and depressing at dinner. Service: it’s of the friendly, try-hard variety. (Crescent Court Hotel, 400 Crescent Court, Maple at McKinney. 871-3200. Breakfast: daily 6:30-10:30: Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 6-11:30: Sun brunch: 11-2:30. All credit cards. $$$$)



Szechwan Pavilion



Restaurant makeover of the month: Szechwan Pavilion, which used to be in-distinguishable from hundreds of dreary-looking Chinese restaurants, is now an aesthetic knockout. The place’s trademark pandas are still present on chopsticks and dishes, but otherwise, nothing is the same visually as in its previous incarnation. The peach and gray color scheme, with subtly splattered, matte-finished walls and rich, tweedy-looking gray carpet, is shown off to great advantage by the subdued track lighting, which lends a chiaroscuro effect.

The food has changed, too, if not as dramatically as the decor. Whereas Szechwan Pavilion’s food used to be consistently good, it is now consistently very good. Spring rolls, for instance, were splendid: tender, crisp wonton wrappers filled with lots of crisp cabbage punctuated by shrimp, sprouts, and carrot shreds. Kung Pao shrimp with red pepper and peanuts was no slouch, either. And the noodles with hot sesame sauce, if not one for the record books, was still an enjoyable version of this too-seldom available dish.

There are exceptions to Szechwan Pavilion’s rule of superior food: on my visits, wonton soup with extremely sogged-out wontons; dry, nearly tasteless hot spicy lobster sautéed with ginger in chili sauce; and chicken chow mein with canned, as opposed to fresh, mushrooms could all have stood improvement.

Prices are a bit higher than most local Chinese restaurants, but one can see, in such touches as the exotic lilies on the tables, where the surcharge is going. And the prices don’t seem to be troubling the crowds that are present even on a Monday night. (8411 Preston at Northwest Highway. 368-4303. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30pm, Fri & Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)



Dream Cafe



My friend the philosopher cites the existence of Dream Cafe (formerly Dessert Dreams) as proof of the essential goodness of the universe. He is one of a group of Highland Park/Oak Lawn residents who are Dream Cafe regulars. These customers seem to enjoy running into one another and talking to the “Dream family” (Mary, Ellen, John, Grady, and Michael O’Brien, who range in age from eighteen to twenty-seven) as much as they enjoy consuming the sublime blueberry pancakes.

They’re on to something: I have observed that no matter how grueling was the night before, no morning can seem terribly grim if it includes those whole-wheat pancakes, which manage to taste healthy and addictive at the same time-a trait of nearly everything served at Dream Cafe. Other breakfast highlights are the fresh-squeezed orange juice, the tender, never-rubbery omelettes (I favor the spinach, mushroom, and feta cheese combination), and real hash browns.

For lunch or dinner I am enamored of the quesadillas-whole-wheat tortillas filled with black beans, cheese, salsa, and sour cream. In addition to the on-the-menu salads, sandwiches, lasagna, spanakopita, and enchiladas, daily specials-frequently pizzas-are available.

For dessert, there is carrot cake, amaretti torte, honey cheesecake, lemon bars, gingerbread, brownies, cookies, and pizzelles (thin anise-flavored cookies that were meant to be consumed with espresso, which is available on the premises) as well as tofutti, the soy-based ice cream substitute.

All in all. Dream Cafe is a tiny (there are seven tables) neighborhood treasure-one that my neighbors may string me up for revealing to non-regulars. (3312 Knox. 522-1478. Tue-Thur 7-7. Fri 7 am-10 pm, Sat 8 am-10 pm, Sun 8 am-5 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

Recommended Restaurants



Superior-and highly recommended-restaurants are flagged with a big. bold D.

Restaurant visits by our reviewers are done anonymously in order to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this listing has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing structure is based on the cost of dinner for one, including an appetizer, entree, dessert, and glass of wine:

$, less than $10 (considered a good bargain)

$$, $10-$25 (middle ground for a good meal)

$$$, $25-$50 (expensive)

$$$$, $50 (very expensive)

Credit card notations include: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express. DC/Diners Club. CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



American Nouvelle



D BIom’s. Every dish here stretches the imagination to its ultimate, On our last visit, the ever-changing menu yielded duck liver with ginger and mango, a salad of endives, oysters, and tiny beets; rack of lamb crowned with an herb soufflé and lots of fresh rosemary; and a crepe filled with a light mixture of yams and walnuts. The wild-game terrine, the salad with goal cheese and crumbled walnuts, and the chocolate Marquise were exemplary, too On this visit. so was the service. (Westin Hotel, Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 851-2882. Daily 6:30-10 pm; Sun brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Catalina. From the owners of Zanzibar and the defunct Chickeria comes this new Lower Greenville attempt to combine New Southwestern Cuisine with various other Texas and California fads. Paradoxically, the cooking is pretty good but the food is usually odd at best. In the case of the Alamo Bay Noodles, the menu description says almost everything: blackened gulf prawns coated with cayenne, garlic powder, and coriander, sautéed until crisp and served on rice vermicelli noodles with black bean sauce The chicken satay comes with a gloppy peanut butter sauce rather far from the real Asian thing, and the Uncle Paul’s Popcorn Crawfish are marred by a sauce that claims to be Cajun but is mostly just sweet. The best things at Catalina are grilled-a fish special of amberjack, the veal ribs, and pork chops. (3707 Greenville. 828-0990. Tue-Thur 6-1l. Fri & Sat 6-midnight. Sun 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$)

D Dakota’s. The grilled specialties like the medallions of tenderloin (accompanied by a silky sauce) and fish-of-the-day yellowfin tuna are once more reliably cooked The accompanying grilled vegetables are not loo smoky in taste and are done to just the right degree of tenderness. But more complex recipes now are even better. The daily pasta special, with scallops and wild mushrooms, has an autumnal richness that makes it one of the city’s foremost pasta dishes. And if you thought duck soup was only the title of a Marx brothers movie, try the dish here-you’ll be in duck soup! (600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner Sun-Thur 5-10:30. Fri & Sat 5-11:30; Sun brunch- 11-2 30. All credit cards. Lunch $$, dinner $$$)

D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Chef Dean Fearing is doing the most exciting cooking in town. The appetizer of rabbit and venison sausage is delightfully audacious, and the rich sauces on dishes like the roast Indiana duck are unmatched. You can’t go wrong with one of Fearing’s complex salads (like asparagus, pasta, and salmon in green apple vinaigrette), grilled fish (like Louisiana grouper with papaya-basil sauce), or any of the mouth-watering desserts. Especially memorable was the chocotate-banana cream cake with orange curd sauce. One ele. ment has been retained from the old Mansion menu: to get the delicious side dishes like the truffle potato or the zucchini, eggplant, and tomato casserole, you still have to shell out extra bucks (and lots of them). (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121 Main dining room-jackets and ties required. Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2 30; brunch Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast: daily 7-10 30; Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2: tea: Mon-Fri 3-5 30. Reservations All credit cards $$$$)

Parigi. This trendy place doesn’t seem quite as popular as it was when it first opened a year ago, but we find that the food and service have actually improved There’s still the same striving for originality- to the point of shocking, sometimes- but on our last visit all the fat-out recipes worked, The salad of arugula and warm goat cheese was spiked with a vinaigrette with mashed black olives and sprigs of fresh herbs. The appetizer sampler plate included ratatouille (with yellow squash instead of zucchini) and a delicious curried tuna and pasta salad. One of Parigi’s specialties is off-the-wall pasta combinations; ours of black-pepper fettuccine, chicken, candied onions, spinach, and Gruyére was cooked to perfection So was the sautéed Pacific flounder, sauced with capers. Both the chocolate glob {a pudding with lots of walnuts) and the pear cobbler came coated with a mound of lightly whipped cream. (3311 Oak Lawn. Suite 102.521-0295. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11 30-2.30. dinner Tue-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11; Sat brunch: 10-3. Closed Sun & Mon. MC, V. AE, DC. $$-$$$)

D Routh Street Cafe. When this place is in top form, it is as good as any restaurant in the history of Dallas Appetizers were especially imaginative on our last visit: deboned, roasted quail halves sal on top of a sweet potato pancake bathed in a sauce made from one of the new California dessert wines: and a ragout of lobster, sweetbreads, black mushrooms, and corn boasted a complex, creamy sauce. The main courses were the most Mexican-influenced we had ever tried here: a sauce made of tomatillos and barely cooked black beans lapped a red snapper fillet, and a hall-moon of wild boar slices came with a sensational smoked vegetable tamale As always, the little extras (cantaloupe-spearmint ice and the most delicate corn muffins in our experience) were exemplary, and desserts (blueberry tart with orange curd and blackberry buckle with cinnamon ice cream) remain peerless. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161 Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

D West End Oasis. Probably the handsomest restaurant in Dallas with its granite waterfall and commissioned art. the West End Oasis boasts ’cuisine du soleil”- a cross between New Southwestern and provencal cuisines. The inventive soups and luscious desserts are almost always i pressive. but the entrees (often grilled) sometimes lack oomph. The tender young chicken, for instance, grilled to juicy doneness. but in these surroundings one expects some sort of sauce or something to give an extra boost of flavor. The most outstanding main course we have tried is the swordfish Service is attentive-someljmes a bit too much so. (302 N Market [entrance on Pacific]. 698-9775. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$$)



Barbecue/Texana



Anderson’s Barbecue House. This place used to be called Epp’s. and in fact, the sign on Harry Hines (right across from Southwestern Medical School) still reads that way But the name is really the only thing changed-the barbecue and fixin’s are still excellent, and the people are still friendly. The smallish ribs have a smoky flavor, and you can ask for outside cuts of the tender sliced beef The side dishes are truly outstanding the french fries and okra are both fresh and freshly fried. You can also find such delicacies as butter beans, green beans with ham, and even baked potatoes. (5410 Harry Hines Blvd 630-0735 Mon-Fri 11 am-7:45 pm, Sat 11 am-3 pm. No credit cards, personal checks accepted $)

Sonny Bryan’s. Some things never change, and thank goodness Sonny Bryan’s still seems to be one of them. The barbecue is unequaled in Dallas- smoky ribs with the slightest crunch of char, beef slices with a smooth texture and a rich flavor. Aside from the vinegarsparked sauce (served in dispensers kept hot on a warming plate) and fine onion rings, the rest of the food isn’t notable, but the roadhouse atmosphere is. You order standing up in the middle of a crowd, and sit on school desks if you can find one amid the litter. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 am-3 pm. Sun 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)



D Revisits



Good Eats Cafe. This Austin transplant seems to have taken to the Dallas climate, to judge from the lines at peak times (primarily during weekend brunch hogrs) The concept here is home cooking with some natural-foods influence. Hence the hefty burgers – always a good bet – are served on “gravel-grain” buns that are quite tasty, though they may give pause to burger classicists. But burger classicists miss out on all manner of gratification: they also would pass on the bacon blue cheese option, which is most restorative 1o the troubled soul. Breakfast is also a consistent winner, but venture into the area of fish, shrimp, barbecue, or vegetables and things become dicier. Wherever you sit at Good Eats, the jukebox is first-rate and the neon-accented room is airy and pleasant, but lots of luck getting seated at one of the four prized booths. (3531 Oak Lawn. 521-1398. Sun-Thur 7 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 7 am-11:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)



Cajun



Bay Street. This still looks like Charley’s of old -the Addison branch is as big and airy as ever-and the ownership is still the same You can still buy grilled fish here. We ordered a halibut steak off the chalkboard and found it fresh and tasty. But now Bay Street claims to offer Cajun food as well The Cajun popcorn appetizer- highty seasoned, deepfried crayfish tails-are sensational, truly as hard to stop eating as popcorn. We found Bay Street out of redfish, but they cheerfully blackened some red snapper for us. The service is hard-working but not very cordial. (5346 Belt Line, Addison. 934-8502. Sun- Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V.AE.$$)

D Café Margaux. Tom Agnew’s latest restaurant remains one of the best bargains in the city-Dallas could use lots more places like this that are unassuming in decor and serve first-rate food. The top dishes here include Cajun popcorn (tiny fried crayfish with a sherry sauce) and exemplary blackened redfish. A nightly special of garlicky redfish soup has also been a knockout. The Cajun fried chicken served over dirty rice was mildly disappointing, but the bread pudding with whiskey sauce-dark with apples and raisins-made up for it. So far, Cafe Margaux doesn’t have a liquor license, but it is the only place in Dallas that serves recognizable Louisiana cuisine. (4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886. Daily 5:30-10:30 pm. Reserva-tions for parlies of 6 or more MC, V. $-$$.)

Decatur St. Although Decatur St is more uneven than Cafe Margaux, its main Cajun competitor, the best dishes engender great hope for the future here Soups- including gumbo, oyster and artichoke, and Creole chicken-are quite satisfying here. They are equaled in quality by appetizers such as shrimp rémoulade. redfish beignets. and rabbit tenderloin with mustard sauce. Among entrees, fried catfish is a standout, although blackened redfish also shouldn’t be miss-ed. For dessert there is cheesecake or bread pudding. (7015 Greenville. 361-4772. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11, Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)



Chinese



China Palace. This unlikely looking spot in a Richardson shopping center is open virtually all night long, and it proves the rule that some of the best Chinese restaurants are outstanding for a few dishes only. The mostly Asian clientele seems to have been tipped off that the fried dumplings here are the best in the Metroplex-maybe in the country. The little crescents of filled dough come from the fire with a beautiful brown glaze on one side, the filling is tender, and the dipping sauce holds bits of hot pepper and coriander Other dumplings on the long list are outstanding too. as is the beef noodle soup. The beef has the delicious spicy flavor of meat braised Chinese style, but the gelatinous texture may not be to all Occidental tastes. Stir-fried dishes from the regular menu are mostly only of average quality, but the version of orange beef is excellent. (400 N Greenville. Richardson. 669-1636. Daily 11 am-5 am. MC, V. $$)

Chin Big Wong. The whole Chinese dining scene is moving drastically uptown, and this new outpost of New Big Wong just reconfirms the trend Chinese customers (by our visual survey) seem consistently to order the various renditions of whole fish and to include a platter of greens among their other dishes. You can show off your Asian savoir faire by coming here to order a whole live lobster (ours was two and a half pounds) cleavered into large pieces and cooked in garlic sauce or beef with Chinese broccoli. At lunch-time, you can order dim sum (dumplings and other Chinese nibbles) from a special menu. (9243 Skillman, Suite 104 (north of LBJ). 343-0545- Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30 pm. Sat & Sun 10 am-11 pm. MC. V. AE. $$)

Crystal Pagoda. Crystal Pagoda is living up to its promise of becoming one of Dallas’ top Chinese restau-rants. Bon Bon chicken, in a spicy peanut sauce, is a zingy appetizer for those who like hot foods-or you might try a hall order of Peking duck, a bargain at $12 50. Hunan lamb, though no! particularly peppery, proved subtle enough even for those who generally don’t find lamb appealing. And at Crystal Pagoda even one of our favorite old standbys like sweet-and-sour pork receives royal treatment – nice pieces of meat in a crisp crust topped with a delicate sauce. (4516 McKinney. 526-3355 Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE. $$)

Forbidden City. Instead of a whole appetizer tray, we specialized in the meaty cho-cho and the nicely fried shrimp toast, with good results Among the main courses. General’s Chicken did not prove very spicy, but the fried chunks of chicken meat in a hearty sauce were satisfying anyway At Forbidden City. Mongolian beef is essentially strips of beef stir-fried with lots of scallion. Shrimp with cashews made a pleasing lighter contrast. (5290 Bell Line. 960-2999 Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)



D Revisits



Han Chu. Han Chu is a great restaurant for an illicit affair: the place is dark as a cave even at high noon By Chinese-restaurant standards, it’s even sophisticated-looking; the color scheme is egg-plant and burgundy, the waiters are in black tie, and there are roses on the tables On my most recent visit, I found the shredded pork with ginger sauce to be memorable, thanks to a zippy flavor and an appealing texture imparted by the presence of black mushrooms and bamboo shoots. The princess chicken, on the other hand, was an altogether forgettable aggregation of cubed chicken, celery, and water chestnuts. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy at Park Lane, Suite 191. 691-0900. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)



Tong’s House. This tiny restaurant is the Old China Hand’s favorite in far North Dallas, partly because of the extremely long and authentic menu and partly because of the seafood specials on weekends. Want to try pig’s stomach with bean soup7 Those not daunted by the name will find it tolerably close to split pea in taste, though the texture of the pork pieces is unusual enough to alarm the squeamish. The wary will do better to stick with such specialties as the Kon Po scallops, simply tossed with long fingers of dark brown hot peppers Tong’s special shrimps do not turn up on the regular menu but are a tasty bet on weekends. (1910 Promenade Center, Richardson. 231-8858 Tue-Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Sun 11 am-9 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)

Deli/Lunch



D Revisits



Bagelstein’s. Just as some albums are one-tune wonders, so are some eating establishments one-ilem wonders. II is. of course, possible that some customers come to Bagelstein’s for something other than the bagels and accompaniments, but then suppose it’s also possible that some people listen to cuts on Art Garfunkel’s Watermark other than “(What a) Wonderful World,” In any case, although Bagelstein’s has a lengthy menu of breakfast and deli options, the chewy, fresh bagels are the point of the place, and they are as good as you can gel west of Chicago. The only decision, therefore, is what kind of bagel-plain, egg, pumpernickel, garlic, onion, salt, raisin, poppy seed or sesame seed-and which variety of cream cheese-plain, vegetable, strawberry, chive, herb and spice, lox, or cinnamon raisin. (Northwood Hills Shopping Center, 8104 Spring Valley. 234-3787. Mon 6 am-3 pm, Tue-Sun 6 am-9 pm. AIl credit cards. $)



Kuby’s. Oh, if all of Dallas’ restaurant favorites could wear with the years as well as this Old-World delica tessen! Kuby’s Park Cities neighbors have long favored its excellent sandwiches -the rye bread on which the are built is worth taking out by the loaf Schinkenwurs and other sausage specialties are the usual fillings, and for accompaniments you can choose between German potato salad and memorable sauerkraut. If you have room after such heavy luncheon dishes, the dessert include a better-than-average Black Forest cake. (660 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Store hours: Mon-Sat 8 am-( pm: Restaurant hours: Mon-Fri 8 am-5:30 pm, Sat am-5pm Closed Sun MC. V for purchases over $15 personal checks accepted. $)



D Revisi



Bluebonnet Cafe. If you are a yuppie of a certain age, here is where, to the tune of James Taylor, you’re likely to run into friends, acquaintances, or the ox-spouses of same. Bluebonnet Cafe is part of Bluebonnet Natural Foods Grocery, and as the name of the establishment indicates, the food tends toward the healthful Happily, however, Bluebonnet doesn’t take a doctrinaire stand. Burgers, wine, and coffee -three controlled substances at hard-line health establishments- are allowed here I love a number of Bluebonnet’s of-fenrgs, including the strawberry-banana-papaya smoothie and the black bean nachos with white cheese and un-messed-with guacamole (lightly mashed avocado). What I don’t love is how com-plcaied life at Bluebonnet can seem at lunch food is served cafeteria-style, but at dinner there is table service, albeit frequently spacy. and the customer isn’t allowed to take a look at the specials at the steam table. I notice that every visit to Bluebonnet includes being thwarted on some front: smoothes, for instance, may not be available. The waitress suggests that the blenders aren’t working, or perhaps they haven’t been washed. I can’t quite get an explanation, but in any case no smoothies are forthcoming. Still, the lure of one-stop grocery shopping and nacho noshing makes Bluebonnet a useful stop on the yuppie trail. (2218 Greenville. 828-0052, Daily 9 am-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)



Pacific Express. If you don’t get lost on the way. you can have a tasty lunch here amid lots of shiny chrome and oversized abstract paintings. Salad combinations include large portions of such unusual fare as salads made from wild rice or smoked chicken. Hefty sandwiches feature lots of ham and cheese on coarse-textured bread The desserts are lavish, from peach cobbler to chocolate chip cheesecake. (Pacific Place Bldg, 1910 EIm, Suite 103- 969-7447. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

French/Continental



D Café Royal. The new menu returns this place to the glory it enjoyed when it opened: if the renaissance keeps up. soon Café Royal will again be one of the very top restaurants in Dallas We tried several dishes that juxtaposed luxurious ingredients, Salads that combined sautéed sweetbreads and medallions of lobster, or duck liver and tiny green beans, made first-rale beginnings. A thick, juicy (if slightly underseasoned) veal steak was garnished with large shrimp. And a pungent sauce made a grand unity of tender, meaty quail, hearly venison, and foie gras. The side dish of hand-whittled asparagus justifies the extra tab. and the dessert cart offers dark chocolate cakes and fruit tan’s with flaky crusts. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Closed Sun Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards $$$)

D Calluaud. Owner-chef Guy Calluaud is at his best with the magnificent dishes of the an-cienne cuisine: feather-light lobster souffle, perfectly roasted quail and pigeon in a gamy giblet sauce rack of lamb encrusted with a coating of bread-crumbs and parsley. He can a!so turn a nouvelle standard like a feuilletée of asparagus into something richer and heavier by adding a soupcon of foie gras. On our last visit we also discovered some interesting salads, especially one of beautifully cooked artichoke bottoms and avocado. Desserts have always been a treat here, we enjoyed both the chocolate soufflé and the delicate apple tart. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC. V, AE, DC. $$$$)

D Chez Gerard. If we had to name one Dallas restaurant that seems most genuinely to reflect the tastes of France, it would be Chez Gerard. Some of the dishes it offers might well be considered old-fashioned in the old country, but even in France getting back to culinary roots is in vogue Where else in Dallas, after all, can you find choucroute garnie, the French version of sauerkraut, served up with two kinds of sausage and two kinds of ham? Or rognons de veau. chunks of veal kidney stewed with bacon and mushrooms? These hearty dishes make us forgive the eminently forgettable first courses (sautéed shrimp, tough in a characterless sauce, and strong-tasting, chewy mussels) and the undistinguished house wine The desserts helped immensely, too. especially the light-as-a-feather floating island. (4444 McKinney. 522-6865. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Mon-Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. Lunch $$. dinner$$$)

D Chez Philippe. We were not fond of either appetizer special we tried on our last visit (mussels out of their shells and large frog’s legs in a green peppercorn sauce), but there is always much to enjoy at this elegantly appointed reslaurant Thick pieces of veal garnished with plum sauces were heavenly, but the new treatment of lobster (with Calvados and saffron) is not as striking as the previous one, The little touches like salads, vegetable garnishes, and sorbets continue to sparkle Desserts, including marvelous souffles and tarts, have much improved Chez Philippe these days doesn’t always live up to the high standards of its departed chef, but it is still a place to be reckoned with. (5027 W Lovers Lane. 353-9444. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$$$)

D The French Room. The ornate splendor here evokes diplomatic debates that would be worthy of Versailles, is the Pithivier of snails in its puff pastry crown and its chive sauce the king of the appetizers or does that title go to the special of toothsome mussels and oysters in a tureen of broth? Should we stick to a simple salad (say, of beets with watercress and endive) or hold out for one of the complex creations with smoked salmon and the like? We agreed that the beef tenderloin topped with a mixture of marrow, breadcrumbs, and garlic, swimming in a winy sauce perfumed with thyme, could only be matched by the lordly lobster (worth every penny of its fabulous price). So we celebrated the truce with the feuilletée of raspberries and a lemon tart topped with golden menngue. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6-10 Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards $$$)

The Garden Court. As the remodeling of this stately old hotel progresses, the Garden Court becomes a more charming place to dine, with its high ceilings and its old-fashioned ambience. Sunday brunch is an especially pleasant time to try it. Complimentary mimosas or glasses of champagne (or fresh-squeezed juice for teetotalers) set off a teas! that includes clams and crab claws alongside the usual oysters and shrimp. Devotees of eggs can choose between made-to-order omelettes or eggs Benedict… or take both The beef roast is, for a happy change, a standing rib, and there are delicious alternatives like stir-fried chicken with lots of vegetables, broadcasting the odor of sesame oil. The various salads and the fruit table are lavish (when was the last time anybody offered you all the raspberries you could eat?), the desserts, though lovely, prove a bit of an anticlimax. (Melrose Hotel. 3015 Oaklawn. 521-5151 Breakfast:daily 6:30-10:30; Lunch. Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sa!6.30-11. Sun brunch; 11-2 All credit cards. $$$)

D Jennivine. Over the years, Jennivine has increasingly lived up to its claim to be a wine bar as well as a restaurant by offering a larger selection of wines by the glass We like to sample them to the accompaniment of some cheese and the rich, gamy pate maison (which we like better than either the páté de campagne or the salmon pate). As for the main courses, our salmon was delicately cooked, with a mustard sauce almost too tame for the name. A more robust mushroom sauce topped tender scallops of veal, and the fan of accompanying vegetables set them oft nicely About the only dish around here that smacks of England (the declared ethnic origin of the place) is the English trifle, an unusual dessert for Dallas. (3605 McKinney 528-6010 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10:30. All credit cards.)

D L’Ambiance. Just when we feared that this pleasant place (occupying a former filling station, no less) was settling into premature middle age, it trotted out a few new dishes-and they are as good as the old ones. The mussels appetizer at L’Ambiance has always been an extremely generous portion; on our last visit, the crustaceans were newly set out on a plate and embellished with a beurre blanc, but there still seemed to be dozens and dozens of them. Another fresh treatment brought forth shrimp in a delicate {and not too spicy) jalapeno sauce As always, the salads were among the best in the city. And we couldn’t bear to limit ourselves to one dessert apiece-if we had contented ourselves with the two fabulous versions of chocolate cake, we would have had to forgo the floating island, one of our favorite desserts in the city. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

L’Ancestral. Very like a country French inn in its food and atmosphere. L’Ancestral offers good basic dishes like vegetable soup or onion tart as appetizers. An interesting entrée is the sweetbreads with mushrooms, in a sauce lightly touched with curry. Other mam courses can be dull, like lamb chops accompanied by pommes frites or a slightly fishy fillet of Dover sole. The chocolate truffle cake is very dark and not very sweet (you have to be careful not to breathe in the rich dusting of cocoa powder), but our favorite dessert is the ile flottante-a puff of meringue floating on delicate custard. (5631 Alta. 826-0006 Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-midntght. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

La Bonne Auberge. Our most recent visit didn’t quite confirm the high opinion we had on first acquaintance with this mostly seafood, mostly French place. Overcooked clams, salmon too tart in its lime marinade, and watery paella all disappointed us. A swordfish steak was broiled correctly, but its sauce seemed blah. Ironically, the best dish we tried-the pepper steak-had nothing to do with the sea Desserts are also better than average, especially the gooey concoction of fruit and sauce called the puits d’amour. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE, DC. $$$)

La Touraine. This is the prettiest of Dallas new French bistros with its panelled walls and mirrors. It can also offer first-rate fare: smoky-tasting coq au vin, with a rich, winy sauce, or a subtle crème caramel. At lunchtime there is not much choice among appetizers for those who want to make this the big meal of the day, but there is a selection of French sandwiches and other lighter dishes for the nibblers among us. (1701 N Market. 749-0080. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10:30. All credit cards. $$-$$$)

Pyramid Restaurant. On our last visit to this doyenne of Dallas restaurants in the Fairmont Hotel, the table d’hote menu looked so tempting we ordered exclusive-ly from it. The crawfish and lettuce salad disappointed us by excessive subtlety- there just wasn’t a sufficiently assertive flavor – and the hot duckling pate en croute turned out to have the texture of a pot pie Sad to say, the potage santé tasted all too healthy-we’d be skinny as a rail it that was all we had to eat. But the Grand Trio of seafood – red Spanish shrimp, scallops and a patty of crab meat in a red wine butter sauce – proved by far the most memorable of the dishes we sampled. Some things have improved at the Pyramid-the sorbet is no longer alarmingly sweet, the harp is easier to live with than the former, noisy grand piano, and the sommelier rarely sings arias as he climbs the ladder to fetch the wine. But the cuisine at this local legend is not in its prime. (Fairmont Hotel, 1717 N Akard. 720-2020. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner daily 6-10. All credit cards. $$$)

The Renaissance. We hardly had time to mourn the passing of one of our favorite restaurants, Jean-Claude, when this newcomer- with blue fabric on the walls in place of older paisley – opened in the same space The Renaissance is owned by the proprietor of Alessio’s-we suppose we have to call it Continental, with Italian overtones. There is no pasta listed on the menu, for instance, though we did enjoy an appetizer special of the day consisting of homemade pasta with mussels (still in their shells) tossed with a delicate tomato-based sauce The menu boasts a lot of interesting appetizers like snails in a rich melange of chopped fresh vegetables, a seafood terrine with delicate pieces of shrimp, and a surprisingly tasty chicken gumbo. Among the main courses, we were taken with nicely pink lamb chops, accompanied by sensationally herby eggplant and zucchini, and fresh sprigs of rosemary perfumed a moist swordfish steak. (2404 Cedar Springs. 871-0818. Mon 6 pm-10 pm, Tue-Sat 6 pm-10:30 pm. Ail credit cards. $$$)



D The Riviera. I have attended Grateful Dead concerts that were quieter than the Riviera on a Saturday night, but minor hearing loss is a small price to pay for first-rate food in a charming setting. Spicy clams and lobsier ravioli-two appetizers that were daily specials (listed, commendably, on a printed menu)-were relatively disappointing on my last visit, but it was all uphill from there A green salad was nicely set off by sherry vinaigrette, and came with a delectable goat cheese crouton. Sun-dried tomato and smoked bell pepper soup was satisfying, if heavy on the bacon. Norwegian salmon and sea scallops steamed with white wine and served with a light rosemary sauce was one of the best treatments of salmon I’ve ever tasted. And duck breast with intensely flavored lavender and honey sauce was worthwhile, too For dessert the creditable, very buttery-tasting Grand Marnier créme brulée was outshone by the ethereally light apple tart with almond cream and caramel sauce. This is one for the Dessert Hall of Fame. (7709 Inwood 351-0094. Mon-Thur 6:30 pm-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6:30 pm-11 pm, Sun 5:30 pm-10 pm. Ail credit cards. $$$$)



Three Vikings. The Scandinavian bric-a-brac on the walls had always struck us as the most ethnic thing about this restaurant-the cuisine is mostly middle-of-the-road Continental with a few Nordic touches The Swedish meatballs, for instance – available either as an appetizer or as a main course-are not authentically dry but come in a heavy, glutinous (though tasty) sauce. The veal Norway seems pretty close to a stuffed Veal Oscar to us-the hollandaise sauce is fine, but the crab meat may taste fishy; the stuffing, alarmingly, reminds us of the stuffed flounders that used to plague seafood menus hereabouts. A special of the day of sautéed salmon was much more pleasant. One thing you can’t accuse the Three Vikings of is succumbing to the trend to “light” meals: Both the signature shrimp chowder (strong with the taste of dried dill) and the chocolate cheese pie are undeniable heavyweights. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin 827-6770. Mon-Thur 6-70 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$)

Zanzibar. This Lower Greenville wine bar cum restaurant may be the Hippest place in town where you can actually find good food. If the youth and the sar-lonal exuberance of the clientele don’t faze you. try one of the long list of wines available by the glass and order off the blackboard of daily specialties, which has provided better results than the regular menu for us. The specials of the day in the pasta and fish categories are usually winners-we especially enjoyed the linguine with clams and bits of tuna From the menu, the meat and cheese plate proved pedestrian, with no more adventuresome choices than roast beef and Swiss cheese. The house version of chicken tacos, with grilled fowl in rather soggy flour tortillas, did not excite either. For desserts there are only various flavors of cheesecake, though jobbed in from a good supplier. (2912 Greenville. 828-2250. Mon 6 pm-1 am, Tue-Sat 11:30 am-2 am, Sun 10:30 am-midnight; Sun brunch. 10:30-3. MC. V, AE. $$)



German/Eastern European



Belvedere. Almost everything the chef of this Swiss-Austrian restaurant attempts he accomplishes well, whether it’s perfectly preparing meaty, tender scallops, grilling a T-bone of veal, or assembling a rich and colorful veal Oscar. Some pre-meal choices may be better than others, however: the plates of smoked salmon and veal we ordered were tasty but too overwhelming to be served as appetizers. A homemade soup or a house salad dressed with generous amounts of blue cheese is a better bet The look of Belvedere has improved substantially since our last visit. (Crestpark Hotel, 4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Lunch- Tue-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun 6-9, Sun brunch: 11-2:30. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

Bohemia. The fad of “light” cooking has not invaded this little corner of Czechoslovakia, with its lace curtains and photos of Prague on the walls Everything served here is substantial, in proper Middle European fashion. The choice of appetizers (beyond the salad and soup that come with an entree) is narrow; we found the beef tartare surprisingly tasty in spite of its mushy, almost blended consistency, but wondered whether the liver páté had actually been made on the premises. The Czech version of saderbraten was sweeter and less sour than most of its German cousins- the sauce delicately spicy but the meal not quite tender. Roast duck had a gloriously crisp skin but dry, overcooked flesh. Both came with bread dumplings even heavier than the liver dumplings that had graced our soup. After all this nourishment, if you haven’t room for strudel, you might try the berries glace- not exactly slimming with its combination of strawberries, ice cream, meringues, liqueur, and whipped cream, but refreshingly tart and sweet. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-9 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)

Cafe Kashtan. After closing for a few months, Dallas’ only Ukrainian restaurant has reopened. The worst service problems seem to have been solved, even though the policy of cooking everything from scratch still makes for a slowish pace. For starters, the best things here remain the soups (like the tart, cold green schi or the salanka, with beef, sausage, and vegetables) or the delicious beet, potato, and sauerkraut salads. The chicken tabaka (half a bird flattened and sautéed) and the beef stroganoff are good choices among the main dishes, accompanied by well-dressed salads and nicely cooked potatoes, pasta, or rice. Desserts change daily: the almond cake with raspberry sauce will satisfy any sweet tooth. At lunchtime a number of unusual and inexpensive specialties are available. (5365 Spring Valley Rd at Montfort. 991-9550. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10. Fn& Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)

Gourmet Carryout



Marty’s. Marty’s deserves its reputation as Dallas’ premier spot for buying fancy foods and wines. It is always a treat to be tempted by the endless variety of foods here, from the fresh fruits to the most esoteric array of cheeses in town (we indulged in Boursault, a creamy French cheese hard to find elsewhere in town). The establishment also makes its own delicious breads and a bewildering assortment of pátés (we tried wild boar with chestnuts and pheasant with pears). The selections of dips (we loved the one of green chiles), salads (the ziti was special), and desserts (the rich chocolate cake satisfied our craving for a week) are exemplary, Only the take-home entrees sometimes disappoint: the moussaka was fine, probably better than that ol any Greek restaurant in town, but the game hen in an orange sauce lacked flavor. (3316 Oak Lawn, 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards, Marty’s charge. $$$)



Greek/Middle Eastern



Gulf Coast Oyster Company. Dallas now has lots of good seafood houses, but only one Greek seafood place. This narrow, bustling restaurant serves the Greek caviar dip, taramousalata, before alt entrees and offers a Greek appetizer platter, too (with crunchy fried squid and shrimp). Main dishes include skewered chicken and shrimp, grilled Greek-style, and shrimp cooked with feta cheese in a (too sweet) tomato sauce. The fish of the day can be even better-the sweet, delicate brill (a Mediterranean fish something like a flounder) was one of our favorite fish dishes ever. The baklava for dessert, though, proved slightly stale. (Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -3; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri 5-11, Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE $$-$$$)

Panteli’s. This Lowest Greenville Avenue restaurant and wine bar gets high marks for its mostly Greek menu and relaxed atmosphere. Among the appetizers, the fried potato balls shouldn’t be missed. As for the main courses, the gyro pocket sandwich with yogurt dressing, the keftethes (Greek meatballs), and the souvlaki (a Greek version of shish kebab) are all excellent choices. The only disappointment was our waitress. who was pleasant but inattentive. (1928 Greenville. 823-8711. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 11-11. MC, V, AE.$$)



Indian



D India Palace. This new Indian restaurant has a larger menu, a slightly fancier decor, and slightly higher prices than other spots. We think it is worth the extra cost to sample the new dishes and have the extra comfort. If you are feeling adventuresome, try the red snapper (stuffed with finely chopped fruits and vegetables and piquantly sauced) or the lamb shahi korma. The tandoori dishes (meats roasted in the Indian barbecue oven, served with delicious bread called na’an) are perfect for the more cautious. (13360 Preston 392-0190. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2. Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Tanjore. During the week, you can find good North Indian food here (the kitchen can be slow to bring it out, but it’s worth waiting for). We are fond of the chicken tanjore (a version of chicken tandoori. but not made in the clay oven typical for that dish) and the cubes of fried homemade cheese (with something of the texture of tofu) cooked in a spicy spinach sauce. These are standard items in Indian restaurants in America, but at lunch on weekends you can get something really unusual here: dishes from South India, There are rice cakes called idli and little savory fried doughnuts, curried lentils, and fresh coconut chutney. The dish most like-ly to appeal to Americans is the masala dosa, a thin crepe of fermented dough cooked crisp and folded around a filling of curried potatoes One of the nicest things about the South Indian dishes is that they are cheap enough to justify trying on an experimental basis. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line Rd. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner daily 6-10, brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-3. All credit cards. $-$$.)



Itali



D Revisits



Adriano’s. Adriano’s, which seemed to be on the cutting edge of new-wave Italian dining when it opened, is looking a bit timeworn these days. The setting is still sunny and high-tech in nature, but the walls could use a paint job. and the menus are looking extremely weather-beaten The trademark pizzas, however, have maintained their appeal-parlicuiarly the pancetta version with fresh tomatoes and mushrooms. Pasta is available, too, and it’s not bad. but you can do better elsewhere, as demonstrated by the fettuccine casa with ham, mushrooms, cheese, and a too-gluey cream sauce and slightly charred, heavy-on-the-oregano lasagna of my last visit. (The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh, Suite 170. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5.30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Sun 11:30-9. MC, V, AE.)



Alessio’s. Crowded tables and a proprietor who seems to know half of the diners can lend this Italian bistro a clubby, if claustrophobic air, but the food usually puts Alessio’s in the top rank of Dallas Italian restaurants. The eggplant appetizer is like a miniature parmigiana. though less heavy, and the pasta with seafood brims with shrimp and scallops. The tenderloin in a robust red wine sauce offers an unusual option for an Italian restaurant, but the butter and hazelnut topping on the fillet of sole makes an oily fish even oilier A refreshing dessert is the lemon ice served with sweet fresh raspberries even in the off season (4117 Lomo Alto, 521-3585. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm, Sun & Mon 6-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)



D Revisits



Café Italia. According to John Mariani in Eating Out: Fearless Dining in Ethnic Restaurants, it was Neil Simon who said there are two laws in the universe-the Law of Gravity and Everybody Likes Italian Food. The second law certainly seems to apply at Cafe Italia, where they’ve never heard of nuovo cucina, and the plainly happy patrons like it fine that way. Café Italia is informal, and prices are low, which make one inclined to overlook such minor glitches as flabby garlic bread and flat San Pellegrino water. I tried entrees of an on-the-money combination of cannelloni and manicotti and a very meaty yet unheavy lasagna. Barely sweet flan with a drift of lightly whipped cream and killer-strength espresso made for a nice finish. (5000 Maple. 521-0700. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)



Ciao! This shrine to unusual pizzas sits on one of the most entertaining stretches of Cedar Springs- the view out the glass front is as good as any floor show inside, the food is good, if not overwhelming The famous spinach pizza, for instance, we found more odd than appealing and the combination of mounds of chopped greens with underdone strips of Italian bacon was not helped by a less than perfectly crisp crust The moz-zarella (advertised as fresh) on a plainer pizza was rather rubbery. We had no complaints about an al dente order of pasta topped with a pesto sauce with plenty of basil and garlic, but a daily special of a sautéed chicken breast was boring. (3921 B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-midnigtit. Sun 3 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mario’s. Venetian glass and ruby-colored walls set the tone of elegance here. The food sometimes matches that standard, and sometimes doesn’t. Our last visit was more down than up. The cannelloni in a cream sauce was tasty, but the seafood in a hot sauce poured over an artichoke did not complement the vegetable’s taste. We also suffered from a special of grilled redfish which had a harsh basil sauce, and a scallop of veal with shrimp had a dark sauce that seemed at odds with both main ingredients Our favorite dish this outing was a refreshing Grand Marnier mousse. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)

Pizzeria Uno. The best things about this place for Chicago style deep-dish pizzas are the pies themselves: buttery crusted, with inch-deep heaps of sausages, cheeses, and vegetables. Some come wi!h little or no tomato sauce-the seafood pizza uses lots of garlic for flavor instead. There are some pretty good side dishes, but the best accompaniments are libations from the bar that forms the heart of the restaurant. The mam drawbacks at Pizzeria Uno are the noise and the service, which we have found to be slow and spacey even at of hours, let alone at mealtimes, when the place is usually packed. (4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Mon &Tue 11 am-10:30 pm, Wed &Thur 11 am-11 30 pm, Fri 11-12:30, Sat noon-12:30. Sun noon-10:30.MC.V.AE.$$)

D Ristorante Savino. For consistency and authenticity, this is probably Dallas’ finest Italian restaurant. Our latest visit gave us opportunities to taste a splendid version of vitello tuna (cold, thin slices of braised veal topped with a sauce flavored with tuna and lemon and crowned with capers). The cro-chette-small croquettes made of fried stuffed crepes-were less exciting, but both pasta courses were cooked magnificently: cavatelli (pasta shells in a sauce strongly flavored with tomato, garlic, and cheese) and angel hair pasta in a lobster sauce. Our meat dishes – delicate scallops of veal in a wild mushroom sauce and large shrimp in a golden sauce smelting of saffron-were exemplary. Desserts have improved steadily as Ristorante Savino has matured; the profiteroles are worth every calorie. (2929 N Henderson 826-7804. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$)

Ruggeri’s. This is in the location the ill-fated restaurants Mexico and Palermo formerly occupied, but Ruggeri’s has a new, much more formal look – and, what’s more important, much better cooking The cioppino was as good as any we have tasted, with a rich (but not too aggressive) tomato broth in which shrimp, scallops, mussels, and other shellfish swam. The scampi livor-naise had plenty of garlic and a nice texture, and the calamari fritti came to 1he table crisp and hot. The lasagne verde was layered with beet, sausage, and cheese, and a delicious besciamella sauce covered one end. The tournedos miranda were fork tender and the sauce had plenly of character. (2911 Routh. 871-7377 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11:30, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnignt. Ail credit cards. $$$)

Sfizi. This West End Italian place has really picked up steam since our last visit, when it was almost empty. We even had an unexpected twenty-minute wait for our table The menu is brief, but supplemented by speciats on a chalkboard menu, which the waiter brings to your table and explains thoroughly. The fried calamari was a pleasant appetizer, but the shrimp champignon was perhaps a little too ambitious. For our entrees, the chicken marsala was delicious as was the eggplant. The tortellini was also tasty but not served hot enough The cannoli made an adequate dessert. The minor deficiencies in the kitchen were compensated for by the efficient and pleasant service; if you like concrete-floor-and-neon-light ambience, you should have a pleasant experience at Sfizi. (1718 Market. 698-9390. Mon-Thur 11-11,Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat 5 pm-2 am, Sun 5-11 pm. All credit cards $$)

311 Lombardi’s. The food at this attractive, informal restaurant doesn’t quite live up to its looks. Pasta and desserts are both weak points. One of the best bets is costoletta alla milanese, a large bone-in veal cutlet with a vinegary topping that includes cooked arugula. Whatever else you order, don’t miss the focaccia bread (a kind of cheeseless, saucefess pizza) that comes from the wood-burning oven perfectly crisp and salty, tasting of olive oil and rosemary. The best dessert proved to be the tirami su, an espresso mousse layered with slices of cake. (311 Market. 747-0322. Mon-Fri am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Mexican



Café Cancun. We found the atmosphere of this Mexico City-siyle restaurant quite airy, a pleasant departure from the typical close sealing in most Mexican restaurants. We also found !he service exceptional. Our waiter was courteous and helpful; our glasses were filled ofter, and a new basket of chips was on our table before we finished the first. But we saw no marked improvement in the cuisine since our last visit The chicken nachos, made with black beans, Chihuahua cheese, chicken, guacamole, sour cream, and jala-penos, were average, as were the fajitas and sour cream chicken enchiladas. We remember when the food here was better. (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011; Caruth Plaza. Park Lane at Central Expwy, 369-3712. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri 11-11, Sal 5-11 pm. Sun noon-10 pm. at Lomo Alto location; Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri &Sat 11-11. Sun noon-10 pm at Caruth Plaza location. MC. V. AE. $$)

Café Rincón. We had heard some complaints about both food and service here, but when we returned to check them out all seemed well as before. Our server was not as cordial as some we have had here, but was efficient. And the food was delightful. Flautitas (crisp tortillas rolled around spicy chicken meat) made a great starter. The red snapper was touted as very fresh, and so it was, with its garlicky sauce The carne asada a la tampiquena boasted a tenderloin that melted in our mouth alongside searing-hot peppers, an enchilada, and a liny cilantro-laden pot of beans. Flan for dessert was the only unexciting dish we sampled. (2818 Harry Hines. 871-7280. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight Closed Sun. MC, V, AE $$)

Cantina Laredo. How many restaurants catering to gringos serve the homey Mexican dish of chicken and rice, arroz con polio? (We have had more exciting versions, in truth, but hardly any versions at all are available in Dallas.) Even enchiladas (chicken), tacos (made with machaco, slivered meat), and tamales are authentic here. And the search tor definitive fajitas and other grilled specialties ends right on this doorstep: the mesquite taste balances perfectly against the manna-tion, and the accompanying grilled scallions. frijoles al charro, guacamole, and flour tortillas are all outstand-ing loo. The churros (long Mexican cinnamon-dusted fritters) are to die for, and the flan is also outstanding. We are also impressed with the smooth and courteous service. (4546 Bell Line. Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11,Fri & Sat 11 am-midmght. Ail credit cards. $-$$)

Chito’s. If you are looking for authentic Tex-Mex in a down-to-earth setting and Herrera has a line down the block, you might drive on down the street to Chito’s. This place may actually be more aulhentic – it doesn’t feel so self-consciously picturesque, and you will probably encounter a larger percentage of Mexican clientele. The standard Tex-Mex items are well done -tacos and enchiladas are particularly appealing. The menu doesn’t go in for many newfangled fancy items, either; even the now standard fajitas are strictly down-home. The meat is grilled instead of charcoal-broiled, it hasn’t been marinated to death, and it doesn’t come on a sizzling platter. But the dish, like the restaurant that serves it, is pleasant in its unassuming way. (4447 Maple. 526-9027; 3747 Walnut Hill. 351-9554. Sun-Tue & Thur 9 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 9 am-3 am. Closed Wed, at Maple location; Tue-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Mon, at Walnut Hill location MC. V. $)

Garza Blanca. You may recognize the name as that of a famous resort in Puerto Vallarta. The ceviche is spectacularly fresh and tasty, with a strong taste of lime, olive oil. and especially capers. The chiles rellenos are a good, light-textured version, but perhaps the best choices for main dishes here are the charcoal grilled specialties, which are oddly identified by the sounds that the animals being served made when they were alive (beef is Moo, frog’s legs Ribbet Ribbet-combi-nation dinners make a whole barnyard of sounds). The meats are deliciously seasoned with vinegar, oil, and oregano before cooking, and the butterfly pork chop and the fajita steak are particularly tender and moist. The mango ice cream topped with perfectly ripe slices of 1resh mango is an exciting dessert, with Mexican anise and cinnamon cookies served on the side. Return visits have sadly revealed that service declines and noise abounds on a busy evening here. (2508 Maple. 871-0530. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun noon-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Genaro’s. This cool, tropical oasis would be great -for people-watching, sipping margaritas, dancing on Sunday nights-even if no food were available. But it is, and most of it’s quite reliable. On recent visits we’ve tried ceviche. seafood nachos, flautas, !he excellent torta del mar. and basic Tex-Mex, and come away smiling every time. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm All credit cards. $$)



D Revisits



Gonzales. Some dining establishments are as much in the business of purveying comfort as of purveying cuisine Gonzales is such a place. Here, for very little money, one can have a beer and hunker down in the dark wood-grain booths and achieve low-budget Tex-Mex-style satori. This is not to say that there aren’t good things to eat available at Gonzales. There definitely are, but one needs to know the topography of the menu to find them. They are most notably the numerous varieties of burritos made fat, with tender flour tortillas: the bean and cheese and the potato and egg are two good choices for those in search of hangover cures that do not require as much machismo to ingest as menudo does The drive-through window provides a good, fast option For on-the-run diners. (4333 Maple 528-2960. Daily 7 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Guadalajara. This classic hole-in-the-wall has moved a few blocks down Ross Avenue-and a few steps upscale. The space is now bright and airy, the service less abrasive, but the food does not seem to live up to our memories. The menu is certainly comprehensive, with everything from menudo (the traditional Mexican hangover cure of pepper-flecked tripe and hominy soup} to Tex-Mex combos. Fajitas can be gristly, and red snapper cooked Carnpeche style (with a stuffing of oysters and shrimp and a sprig of cilantro) seemed slightly past the peak of freshness. We cant report on the enchiladas-the combination plate that was supposed to include them came with three tamales instead. (4405 Ross. 823-9340. Mon-Fri 11 am 3:30 am, Sat & Sun 9 am-4 am. All credit cards. $$)

Javier’s. This is Yankee Mexican food: pricey, prettier than a combination plate, peculiar to natives weaned on crispy tacos Things like red snapper mojo de ajo {succulent fillets dripping with buttery garlic, lime juice, and white wine) and Mete pimienta (mouth-watering tenderloin in a piquant black pepper sauce} don’t crop up loo often at Rosita’s. But we are blessed that they do appear with consistency at Javier’s, surely one of the most enjoyable restaurants in Dallas Oh, and don’t miss the appetizer of cheese panela (grilled Monterey Jack with Mexican sausage) flamed a tavola, or the chocolate mousse laced with Tia Maria and walnuts. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30 pm All credit cards. $$$)

Mario & Alberto. The standards of Mario Leal’s second restaurant don’t seem to have suffered with the opening of a third one-this popular North Dallas spot seemed as line (and as busy) as ever To start with, a tart ceviche or tortilla soup are good choices. Among the main courses, the filete de la casa (tenderloin strongly flavored with garlic, accompanied by lightly fried potato slices) remains a favorite. Those who crave fajitas will find a relatively restrained -version here-a manageably modest serving, and no sizzing fireworks. The Tex-Mex plates continue to run way behind the specialties in excellence. Coconut or cinnamon ice cream makes a refreshing dessert. (Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296 Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mario’s Chiquita. A return visit confirmed that Mario Leal is doing a good job of reproducing the high quality of food and service found in his older restaurants at this one way up in Piano The new specialties are available even at lunch, and include beef tips sautéed with onions and gently seasoned. The kitchen turns out several excellent renditions of shrimp – our favorite is a ring of large ones cooked with abundant garlic. served with a classic version of Mexican rice. If you don’t have time or room to order dessert from the menu, be sure to pick up one of the unique cinnamon-flavored pralines. (221 W Parker, Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Mon-Thur 11.30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

Pepe’s. Next door to the Routh Street Cafe sits this unpretentious Mexican spot. Pepe’s probably does old-fashioned Tex-Mex as well as any place in Dallas. The beef tacos, for instance, came in a light, fresh-tasting shell Enchiladas have been dependable, too. Carne asada was made from tender beef, chiles rellenos from authentic poblano peppers (though the filling proved to be unexciting). (3011 Routh, 871-9445. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. Sat 10:30 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards, $)

Ricardo’s. This is a Mexican restaurant in the new polished style – the colors are rose and plum, with only a lew cacti around to give away the restaurant’s ethnic orientation. The menu is conventional but appealing. We enjoyed the beef fajitas (neither overmarinated nor overcharred) and the broiled chicken breast, which had a pleasant flavor and a light melting of cheese on top. A few less frequently seen dishes like carne guisada (beef stewed with potatoes ana green peppers) also are executed deftly. The conventional Tex-Mex plates were better than average. (17610 Midway. 931-5073. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Rio Grande Grill. North Greenville Avenue’s unique cross between a Yuppie bar and a Mexican restaurant has new management and a new menu, but much re-mains the same. You still have (in a Back to the Future scenario) slender people playing backgammon at high tables. And you still have pretty good food with an alarming tendency to be drowned in an excess of glop-py cheese and indiscriminately applied sauces. One might expect appetizers like !he Mexican pizza and Rio Grande Dip (layers of beans, guacamole, cheese, peppers, sour cream, olives, and so on) to be soupy messes, but chiles rellenos and basic combination plates should not be so overburdened with toppings. For those who can’t stand to order fajitas again, there are alternatives like chicken fingers. (5111 Greenville. 692-9777. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. All credit cards. $)



Seafood



D Atlantic Cafe. The cooking here remained as line as ever on our last visit, but there were a couple of problems a restaurant this good shouldn’t tolerate. Mussels, beautifully presented in a flavorful broth, were overlarge and strong lasting. The halibut steak couldn’t have been more perfectly grilled-it had a crisp surface and meltingly tender flesh – but it smelled faintly of ammonia, signifying to us that it had passed the peak of freshness, Other parts of the meal were perfect shrimp and scallop ceviche, tomato and fresh mozzarella salad, a sautéed combination of shellfish, and créme brulée. We never find the waiters exactly warm and friendly here, but they are certainly efficient. (4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441 Lunch: Mon-Fri & Sun 11-2:30. dinner Sun-Thur: 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Ail credit cards. $$$)

Aw Shucks. For many good reasons, this disarming-ly casual shuckery has become one of the most popular Lower Greenville dining spots. Your search for the perfect catfish may end here-and nobody in Dallas fills a basket with fish for a cheaper price. The same cannot be said of the skimpy shrimp and oyster combo, but skip it and “pick up a dozen”- shucksese for a dozen plump oysters on the half shell. Combine with a big bowl of sure-’nuff gumbo, and welcome to New Orleans West. (3601 Greenville. 821-9449.4535 Maple. 522-4498 Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-11:45 pm. Son 11:30 am-10 pm at Greenville location; Mon-Thur 11 arn-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:-45. Sun noon-10 pm at Maple location. No credit cards. $)

Best Pacific. This new restaurant wouldn’t attract much notice if it were on McKinney Avenue, but in northwest Garland, it’s enough of a sensation that it has a lot of business on weekends. The proprietor, branching out from a small Chinese takeout place in Piano, has created an unassuming neighborhood restaurant devoted mostly to seafood. Although the recipes aren’t Oriental, there are some benefits from the Asian heritage, such as !he indisputable freshness of most of the foodstuffs, including even some barely cooked green beans accompanying our entrees. The two standouts among the entrees we sampled were the sauléed scallops – brown and slightly crunchy on top, but tender and juicy within-and the crisp, cornmeal-coated fillets of catfish, which only needed a bit of salt. (4750 N Jupiter at Arapaho, Garland. 530-1574. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10 pm, Sat & Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

D Café Pacific. Glossy but relaxed, this restaurant epitomizes the Highland Park mystique for us Among the best choices are Caesar salad (blessedly served for one), a good version of the ubi-quitous blackened redtish, and the splendid Seafood Pacific (crab, scallops, and shrimp in a creamy sauce atop puff pastry) Lovely details like a yellow rice that really tastes of saffron, a luxurious dessert of chocolate satin pie, and professional service all reinforce the sense of well-being that eating here inspires. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 5261170 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30. Sun 10:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC.V,AE.$$$)

Jozef’s. On our last visit to this cozy littte restaurant on McKinney, we enjoyed a truly relaxing meal with a courtly but not hovering waiter and a laid-back, almost seaside-like atmosphere close to downtown Dallas. Our appetizers-stuffed mushrooms and shrimp bisque – were delicious The shrimp du chef (shrimp in a cream sauce) was light yet satisfying, and the scallops in yet another cream sauce were fresh and very good, but a little too dense. The praline parfait (skimpy on the praline sauce) and chocolate mousse cake (soggy) didn’t really measure up to the rest of the meal. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30;dinner Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri &Sat 6-11 All credit cards. $$$)

L&N Seafood Grill. You might not expect a seafood restaurant named after the landlocked cities of Louisville and Nashville to have much going for it. but this outpost of a chain based in the Southeast fills a valuable niche in Dallas-somewhere between the simplicities of an S&D Oyster Company and the expense of a Cafe Pacific. It fries well, as both the bountiful appetizer of fried calamari (served with a racy fresh tomato sauce) and the main course of mixed fried seafood attested. There are fairly elaborate dishes like the seafood strudel appetizer (a triangle of phyllo pastry encasing a richly sauced portion of shrimp and scallops) and pasta Nicoise (firmly cooked Iinguine with large shrimp seasoned with lots of garlic and other Mediterranean goodies). There is also a large selection of grilled fish -we Found both yellowtail and grouper good but not outstanding. (701 NorthPark Center. 363-4722. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11 30 am-11 pm, Sun 11 am- 10pm; Sun brunch 11-3. MC. V. AE $$)

Newport’s. A recent excursion to this hard-to-find spot in a corner of the West End Historical District showed it still to be a pleasant place to dine, if without the ex-citerrent of its early days. The ceviche appetizer overflowed with more shrimp and scallops than we could handle comfortably, and the marinated octopus, though very chewy and heavy in its oily sauce, had plenty of flavor. Fresh crab and shrimp adorned a creamily dressed salad to fine effect The main disap-pointments were in the main courses Grilled tuna suffered from too smoky a taste and too dry a texture- not helped much by the accompanying beurre blanc and béarnaise sauces (the latter spoiled by too strong a flavor of tarragon) We can’t remember eating blue marlin before, and this sautéed version didn’t recommend it to us for the future-the breading was soggy and the fish underseasoned. The best chocolate mousse in town-strongly flavored with rum-ended the meal on a high note. (703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-0220. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2.30: dinner Mon-Thur5.30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Oysters. This seafood place is cloning itself so fast we wondered if the food or service might be suffering. But, at the original location on Belt Line in Addison at least, we found things better than ever. The seafood gumbo had a rich, smoky flavor, and the shrimp rémoulade (though the sauce lacked a real Creole bite) was tasty. A platter of fried seafood had sweet oysters and crunchy shrimp and scallops, and this time even the cole slaw and the french fries were a olus. As a special of the day, we even tried the ubiquitous blackened fish-in this case, snapper rather than redfish. It was furiously peppery and meltingly tender. (4580 Belt Line, 386-0122; 2901 N Central Expwy at Parker, 422-2469. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 5-10 pm MC, V, AE. $$)

Ratcliffe’s. This spiffy seafood place has a chef named Richard Chamberlain (he does come from California, although he’s not the former Dr. Kildare, and he worked with Dean Fearing at Agnew’s before his stint on the coast). So far the menu hasn’t gone overboard with New Southwestern touches, though the specials of the day, such as striped sea bass with mushrooms and beurre blanc, seem to surpass the dishes still on the old menu (like fresh lobster in a far too sweet Américaine sauce). We did like some of the nouvelle-ish touches-a thick raspberry vinaigrette on an avocado and artichoke salad and the delightful side dish of grilled vegetables. Though Ratcliffe’s can be excellent, be warned – it can easily vie in steepness of price with all but the city’s most flamboyant French restaurants. (1901 McKinney. 871-2900. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner; Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$$)



D Remits



Rocco. Revisiting Rocco inspires mixed emotions not unlike those one has upon seeing an old flame. The years may have taken a toll, but the magic can be recalled, at least with the aid of a couple of glasses of good Chardonnay. Which is to say that these days at Rocco, the food may not shine as consistently as in its earlier days and the stainless steel tables may be looking rather timeworn, but the jukebox is still a blues and roots-rock treasure, the quality of light is still subaqueous, and the other-worldly Judy DeSanders marine-themed stained-glass windows are still in place. A fine, reasonably sized (one pound) and priced ($14) lobster was the highlight of my most recent meal. Gumbo, crab and corn soup, a mixed fried seafood platter, and ice cream with raspberry liqueur all fell into the okay-to-moderately-good category. I liked the relaxed, brassy attitude of our waiter- who actually pulled up a chair to the table to discuss the specials of the day-but this sort of service is not to everyone’s taste. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Tue-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri-Sun 11:30 am-11 pm Closed Mon. MC, V. AE. $$)



Rusty Pelican. This first Dallas outpost of a California-based chain of quality seafood restaurants seems to have weathered the storm of the transition from the firs! days (when out-of-city help kept things running smoothly) to the takeover by the local staff (when service was shaky at first). Now things are on an even keel, and you may wait half an hour if you pop in without a reservation. The specialty here is exotic fish, either charbroiled or sautéed. We found that ahi. a Hawaiian fish, took well to the grill – served pink in the center, it really did remind us of a juicy, thick veal chop. The mahi mahi had a grainier texture and just seemed dull. with only tartar sauce to add variety Plain old Gulf snapper, sautéed nicely enough, seemed drab next to the fancy imports. (14655 Dallas Pkwy, Addison 980-8950. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner Mon-Tnur 5-11, Fri 5-midnight, Sat 4:30-midnight, Sun 4:30-11 pm All credit cards. $$$)

Stacker’s. When this outpost of an Addison seafood restaurant first opened some months ago, we were unimpressed. But a new staff has transformed it into one of the better mid-priced seafood houses in town. Fried things (the specialty of the Addison location) are still good, but the fancier dishes like the combination hot hors d’oeuvres (with two kinds of baked oysters, calamari, and sautéed prawns) can be even better. Nightly specials include unusual fish like silver salmon in rich, buttery sauces. Desserts are definitely one of the attractions here, especially the unlikely sounding-but fabulous-chocolate bread pudding. (4620 McKinney. 522-7320 Mon-Thur 11 10.Fri &Sat 11-midnight, Sun 5 pm-10 pm. All credit cards. $$-$$$)



Southeast Asian



Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is the name of a city in north-ern Thailand, reputedly one of the loveliest in the country-and judging from this namesake, we are ready to believe it. The pretty decor and the courteous, helpful service make this one of the bast, places in Dallas to get acquainted with this delightfully exotic cuisine. Pick hits on the menu include meaty, tender pork moo sate, masterfully spicy shrimp coconut soup; perfectly prepared red curry shrimp, light, fresh-tasting eggplant Thai-style, delicious beef basil, and textbook versions of pud Thai and pineapple fried rice. In fact, the only treacherous section of the menu is the dessert selection: Thai desserts (such as sweet syrup in which tapiocaa nodules and corn kernels float) are not for the gastronomically faint of heart. (11277 E Northwest Hwy, Suite 148. 340-4499. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner. Sun-Thur 5-10:30 Fri & Sat 5-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$)

Sawatdee. For a long time this was one of the top Asian restaurants in Dallas, but on the evidence of our last visit it has slipped considerably. The stuffed chicken wing had a tough, tasteless filling and a soggy coating, and the Plar Kung (a spicy shrimp salad) proved too sour and salty. The green curry beef- in a dull, watery sauce-was similarly disappointing, and the Crab Pud Chan (a noodle dish) tasted slightly fishy. The one really fine dish, the whole red snapper with spicy sauce, boasted plenty of flavor and succulent flesh, but one had to struggle with the small fish to make sure one had removed all the bones. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner daily 5-10:30. MC. V, AE. $$)

D Siam. Gone from the scene for more than two years, Siam has returned in a new location with a setting that is indeed attractive (lots of wood, plants, and waitresses in unpretentious native costumes). One of Dallas’ great restaurants is back-and in top form The signature dishes that made the original Siam’s reputation are as good as ever the pork satay comes with peerless curried peanut sauce, the spring rolls are commendable, the beef salad is rolling in leaves of fresh mint, and pud Thai, a dish of rice noodles with shrimp, ground peanuts, and scrambled egg. tastes better here than anywhere. With its new amenities and more professional service, Siam is one of Dallas’ all-time great Asian restaurants. (Northwest Corners Shopping Center, 2415 Northwest Highway #108 [accessible from Harry Hines] 358-3122. Sun-Thur11am-10pm.Fn&Sat11-11 All credit cards $$)

Siam Orchid. While the food may not live up to the memories of that served by the Siam (the restaurant that formerly occupied this space). Siam Orchid is still worth exploring. On our most recent visit, the spring tolls were wonderfully crunchy and tasty, and both soups (chicken with rice and shrimp in a hot-and-sour broth flavored with lemongrass) were enormously satisfying. Crunchy fish fillets swam in a red curry sauce decorated with fresh hot peppers. On the down side, the pork satay was dry. and the charcoal-grilled beef in the salad with fresh mint lacked flavor. But since most of the food is excellent and the service kind and helpful, we think it’s worth braving the sleazy neighborhood for a meal here. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines 631-6505 Mon-Fri 11 am-2 30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 5-10:30 pm, Closed Sun, All credit cards. $$)

Thai Lanna. We have not been among those impressed by the original Bryan Street location of this Thai restaurant But the new place on Spring Valley Road in Richardson has some of the best Asian food in town, and in cozy surroundings For examples of what Thai Lanna does best, try the stuffed chicken wings or the beef panang The chicken coconut soup- a rich and mysterious blend of the named ingredients plus lots of fresh herbs- is one of our favorite dishes anywhere. The menu here is unusually varied and rewards exploration (1490 W Spring Valley. Richardson 690-3637. 690-3642. Lunch daily 11 am-3 pm: dinner: daily 5-10 pm. MC, V. $-$$)

Southern



Celebration. What’s to celebrate? Plenty Thick, zesty slabs of meat loaf, succulent baked chicken, and other Southern staples, supported by crunchy salads and a Totaling cast of home-style vegetables. Best of all. it’s an all-you-can-eat affair at surprisingly modest prices. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch: daily 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. All credit cards. $$)



D Revisits



Crescent City. Crescent City serves the best mufteletta sandwich in the area. It may welt be the only muffaletta sandwich in the area, but this is not to detract from the accomplishment. For those who haven’t been to Central Grocery on Decatur Street in New Orleans, a definition of a muffaletta sand-wich is in order Crescent City’s version consists of a round loaf of chewy bread filled with ham, salami, three kinds of cheeses, and a mixture of marinated, chopped olives and vegetables. There are other things on the menu – including laudable oyster and shrimp poor boy sandwiches and eminently skip-pable French bread pizzas- but the muffaletta is the reason to make the trek. The beignets and cafe au lait, while reasonably good, are no rivals to Cafe du Monde’s, Service is in the quick and “hon”-style tradition. (10819 Garland. 321-1613. Daily 8 am-10 pm. MC, V. $)



Dick’s Last Resort. You can have more fun in this bar-restaurant than just about anyplace else in the West End historical district. There’s sawdust on the floor, New Orleans-style bands, singers, and other musicians performing on stage, and a general air of camaraderie all over. For a place that is basically a bar, Dick’s Last Resort serves amazingly good food. The sweet beef ribs are huge and meaty; the spit-turned barbecue chicken is sensational; and the catfish is even better -crunchy and juicy. (Ross at Record. 74 7-0001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Wed 5:30-10:30, Thur &Sun 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight MC, V, AE, DC.$$)

Highland Park Cafeteria. We don’t know why the Dallas Parkway branch of this venerable local institution can’t quite keep up the standards of the original place. Perhaps the demand isn’t there – we notice you can seldom get the signature spinach salad with horse-radish at the far North Dallas location. And fried chicken, usually definitive on Knox. is often soggy and tasteless uptown. But even at the lesser branch, you can come away feeling coddled by Southern hospitality. We love 10 make a meal of such regional delights as chicken and dumplings, collard greens, yams with marshmallows, and lemon pie. The German chocolate cake is also worth the calories. (4611 Cole. 526-3801; Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8800. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 pm & 530-8 pm at Cole location; Mon-Sat 10 45 am-8 pm, Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Sakowitz Village location. No credit cards; MC. V, AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $10. $)

Southern Kitchen. The crowds at these two venerable Dallas institutions at either end of Northwest Highway reflect the American love of plenty. All the shrimp, crab meat, and oysters you can eat (and that’s just for ap-petirers!) is a powerful draw. It matters little that the supposed main course (fried and barbecued chicken, fried seafood and trimmings, again in unlimited quantities) is just a bit better than good cafeteria level. If you prefer-and you might-you can order a steak or broiled swordfish instead. The homemade biscuits and cinnamon rolls and the very hard-working service are also major attractions here. (6615 E Northwest Hwy. 368-1658; 2356 W Northwest Hwy, 352-5220. Mon-Sat 5:30-10 pm. Sun 5-9 30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)



Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Del Frisco’s Steak House. This pleasant steak house serves huge high-quality USDA Prime steaks drizzled with a butter sauce. Del Frisco’s also serves a number of New Orleans specialties, like turtle soup, shrimp remoulade, and bread pudding. There is also wonderful fresh bread baked daily in Del’s oven The steaks are obviously of the quality advertised and they are cooked to order The broiled Australian lobster tail is huge and has a flavor and texture superior to many whole American lobsters that cost far more. Desserts include a very good bread pudding with a Jack Daniels sauce. (4300 Lemmon. 526-2101. Mon-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri-Sun 5-11. MC, V.AE. $$$)

Jimanny’s. We’re not sure why they kept the old name-this is essentially a new restaurant, with fresh owners, management, and menu. Though you can still get steak here, this is essentially a European brasserie these days (the new proprietors are Belgian) So the steaks come topped with well-prepared sauces like one of cream and pepper and another of mushrooms and brandy, Or the sauces can top the delicious spit-roasted chickens one sees turning on rotissenes The ideal accompaniment for both is an order o1 crunchy fried shoestring potatoes (those craving American baked potatoes will be discouraged). Prices for the basics are quite reasonable, but the fancier sauces tote sleep price tags. (2109 W Parker. Plano. 985-1339. Mon-Fri 11 am-11 pm, Sal 5-11 pm Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $-$$)

Lawry’s The Prime Rib. For those who like their meat and potatoes dished up with a maximum of show, this is the place In the elegant setting (somewhat funereal, appropriate to the location’s former use as a mortuary), waitresses masquerading as chambermaids from Upstairs, Downstairs spin salads over bowls of ice. and carvers wheel around great chrome carts bearing beef. The only choice of entrée in the evening is in the size of the slice of roast – we favor the thickest, “Dallas” cut. complete with bone, and warn against anything cooked past medium Accompaniments and desserts are generally mediocre at best, but the baronial cam-piness of the place lends charm to the beef. (3008 Maple. 521-7777. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri 6-11:30. Sat 5:30-11:30. Sun 5-10, Sun brunch: 11 -2:30. All credit cards. $$$)

The Palm. The floors are littered with sawdust, and the decorations consist mainly of doodled caricatures of the famous (and not so famous). So what makes this a playground tor the biggest spenders around? The old-pro waiters give the place a certain air, and the food is certainly the sort high rollers go for. Steaks are the number one item- our tenderloin was as delicious as it was pricey. Lobsters are another specialty, and lucki-ly this time we found one weighing in at only three and a half pounds. The accompanying potatoes of various kinds are usually templing (though on one recent oc-casion we found the wafer-thin fried slices unpleasantly bitter-tasting). Appetizers and desserts are mostly not worth the additional (hefty) expense. At lunch there is a much more reasonably priced menu, but do you real-iy go to the Palm to eat shrimp salad or steak tartare? (701 Ross. 698-0470, Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)



Las Colinas/Mid Cities



The Cafe. The prospect of enjoying home cooking at a restaurant held relatively little appeal since we could, theoretically, stay home and enjoy similar fare That’s what we thought before we ate at The Cafe. Mom never thought about cooking like this: stuffed jalapenos, smothered steak with mushrooms, and chicken-fried rib-eye – all to the beat of Motown’s best. This Arlington spot is riding the crest of Fifties nostalgia with flashing neon and lots of chrome, but a second look at the im-pressive menu and beer list (more than 100 brands) will tell you that The Cafe is firmly entrenched in the Eighties. (715-A Ryan Plaza, Arlington (817)261-1000. Mon-Thur 1130 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight.Sun 11-10 All credit cards. $$)

Cedars Village Cafe. The Cedars, a Lebanese café, is wedged between retail shops and across the park-ing lot from a teen-infested Taco Bell drive-through. But park the car and make the few steps over to a new world of take-out. You can take-out, but we prefer not to. Rather, we’re inclined to take a bottle of wine (the cafe is dry but you can bring your own) and have a leisurely meal inside on the patio chairs and table- a sort of urban picnic Everything on the limited menu is worth a try, but the eggplant dip is especially praiseworthy. And as far as the prices go, you cant go wrong when a complete meal for two has a hard time reaching ten dollars. (Green Oaks Plaza, Suite 360, 5801 W I- 20. (817) 483-1988. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun noon-9 All credit cards. $$)

China Terrace. With its rosewood antiques and its wonderful assortment of fine Oriental ornaments, China Terrace creates the perfect atmosphere to enjoy fine Chinese dining. And from the egg rolls to the fortune cookies, that’s exactly what we did in this Mid-Cities restaurant. The foil-wrapped barbecue ribs found on the hot hors d’oeuvres platter only whetted our appetites for what was to follow. We savored the beef with broccoli and indulged in prawns so artfully arranged on our plates that it seemed a shame to devour everything so quickly. Our waiter never let our teacups run dry or our supply of rice dwindle. (5435 N MacArthur. Irving. 258-1113. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE, $$)

D Enjolie. Although we have recently suffered from underdone lobster and unimaginative sauces, there are still enough delightful touches like the tart grapefruit sorbet, the selection of French cheeses and the chocolate truffles to make a visit to Eniolie extremely rewarding. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel. 221 E Las Colinas Blvd. Irving. 556-0800. ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10.30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

Piccolo Mondo. We were pleasantly surprised to find gnocchi on the evening’s menu at this neighborhood Italian restaurant in Arlington (Although it’s located in a strip shopping center off congested Collins-FM 157-it has the feel of a quiet neighborhood place.) Gnocchi are light potato dumplings in a creamy sauce that are truly a delicious appetizer. Sated, we followed that great beginning with fettuccine alla putanesca and veal scaloppine Virginia. The fettuc-cine was unusual in its light, tomatoey sauce, but the light and creamy veal was predictable. (829 East Lamar. (817)265-9174. Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:30-2:30; dinner; Mon-Thur. 5:30-1030, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5-10:30. Alt credit cards. $$)

Samurai. It’s surprising how a belt of sake will improve your outlook on life – and raw fish. Dunked in the mixture of soy sauce and hot mustard, sashimi can be one of the best taste sensations found anywhere. All here, with the mild exception of the Yellowfin, fulfilled our expectations. The large portion of salmon was a little more done than we prefer but the creamy sauce restored the dish’s vitality. The array of tempura vegetables, on the other hand, was somewhat lackluster and bland. And the marinated beef was plentiful, but tasted as if it had marinated perhaps a bit too long But another belt of sake put everything right. (2305 West Park Row. Arlington. (817) 860-2871. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-9:30. AH credit cards. $$)

Via Real. Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists. The contents of the menu are as fresh as the look of the place-you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence. The appetizers include such novelties as crepa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crìpes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (long cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce). Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end, with skewered scallops and swordfish among the specialties. We found the scallop kebabs dominated too strongly by the taste of the bacon that enwrapped it, but the swordfish was firm-fleshed and tasty. (Towne North Centre. 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate, Irving. 255-0064. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5-10.Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$)



Fort Worth



Angeio’s. How much of Angelo’s reputation is warranted and how much mere mystique? We found the sliced barbecue and the chopped beef sandwich both lacking in smoky flavor (though tender and lean enough) on our most recent excursion. The extras here have never been worth hooting about, so that didn’t leave much besides the cold beer and the folksy sawdust on the floor to make our visit memorable. (2533 While Settlement Rd. (817)332-0357. Mon-Sat 11am-10 pm Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Autumn Moon. This East Side establishment tries a little bit too hafd to be a great restaurant when it should be content that it’s a very good one With not much ethnic competition on the East Side, Autumn Moon has a pretty clear field, so it’s hard to understand why, on a recent visit, we were serenaded with the sounds of a live electric guitar player throughout our dinner of crispy soup, spicy chicken, and “two taste delicious,’ a daring mix of spicy shrimp and pork. Our meal was, as usual, prompt and satisfying, but as far as we could tell, the music was more akin to Muzak than ballads of the Far East. (5516 Brentwood Stair. (817)496-6633. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri &Sat 11 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE. DC. $$)

The Carriage House. Leisurely service is the byword here. Nothing is rushed, and given the ambition of the new menu, you need the time to carefully peruse the bountiful offerings of steak, seafood, and veal. We could have made an entire meal of the fresh, perfectly seasoned pàté maison. Our grilled swordfish was taken from the flames not a moment too soon, but the large tenderloin suffered under a suffocating blanket of peppercorns. Despite competition, the Old Guard Carriage House remains one 0( the most popular places in Fort Worth-and by our observations, it is aging as gracefully as its clientele. (5136 Camp Bowie (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner; Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10: Sun brunch: 11-2. All credit cards. $$$)

City Park Cafe. When was the last time you went to a restaurant and found the food even better than you remembered and the prices lower? If it’s been as long for you as it has been for us, then you haven’t stopped by the City Park Cafe, that quaint little restaurant in the TCU district, lately. We’re making a resolution not to let so much time slip by from now on. We tried a tender veal marsala in a brown sauce that was different from what we had expected but nonetheless a great choice and a plate of seafood fettuccine that was as good as we’ve had in more expensive places. City Park Cafe is a jewel of a neighborhood restaurant. (2418 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 921-4567. Lunch: daily 11-3, dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9; Sun brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE; personal checks accepted- $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. The fame of Joe T.’s can get in the way of enjoyment when tourist buses pile up outside, but if you can go a1 an off hour a lot of old magic is still there. There is less bustle, and the mostly gringo waiters are more solicitous. The food is pretty consistent. In case you haven’t heard, the standard Mexican dinner is the big specialty here, and it’s almost the only thing Joe T.’s serves. It consists of round cheese nachos with a sprinkling of chopped jalapenos, a couple of cheese enchiladas with a purist’s cumin-flavored sauce, and a couple of tacos made the old-fashioned way, with meat fried right in the crimped-together shell. On the side, thick retried beans, a lovely guacamole, and fluffy Mexican rice are served family style. For holdouts against tradition, a version of fajitas called bistec is a worthy (and the only) alternative. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356 Mon-Fri 17 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 11-11. Sun 1-10 pm. No credit cards. $$)

Juanita’s. The food served in this pretty establishment is interesting, but inconsistent at this point. It ranges from blackened redfish to heavy-on-the-ancho-chiles enchiladas to shrimp in “fiery” garlic butter that lacked detectable fire The dessert of choice is a Dove Bar-high-quality ice cream covered with a thick layer of dark chocolate. (115 W Second (817) 335-1777. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat noon-2 am, Sun noon-1 am. MC. V, AE. $$)

La Palma. No ritzy ferns. No cute little fried appetizer things. And no frosty margaritas-they don’t even have a hard-liquor license. But, jumpin jehosaphat, you don’t need those frills when you’ve got the best fajitas in town. That’s an honor we don’t bestow lightly. We’ve long been on the trail of the best fajitas in Fort Worth, and this restaurant eluded us for quite some time It’s located on far north Main. (If you think you’ve gone far enough, you haven’t. And don’t let the bright red windowless exterior daunt you. This is the right place.) And now that we know where it is. and how to find it, it’ll be a perma-nent stop on our circuit. (3709 N Main. (817) 626-0292. Mon 11 am-2 pm, Tue-Sat 1 1 am-9 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. $)La Poele d’or. This restaurant, in its storefront location, is very small, with crowded tables, slow service, and decor that’s nondescript at best. But the food is still worthy of consideration, even though the appetizers are unexciting and the salads are simple. We tried sautéed fillets of orange roughy, a fish from New Zealand, and found them delicate, and the specialty of the house (called shrimp Vance) is divine- lightly bat-tered and crunchy crustaceans in a buttery sauce. The veal normande was heavy but tasty, and the chicken aux champignons was satisfying, too. (5718 Locke. (817) 738-6670. Tue-Thur 6:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

D Michel. Things have changed at this toniest of Fort Worth French restaurants. Now there is a printed menu, from which you can order a la carte. And Michel also offers a nightly menu de dégus-tation. with five sizable courses, including dessert (not bulked out with mere green salad and sorbet). When we visited, the menu de dégustation included some surprisingly adventurous items, starting with a veal pate and then a seafood mousse. Fillet of sole was topped with a strong-tasting, oversalted melange of diced potatoes and capers. That was followed by a breast of pheasant in a winy sauce. From the a la carte menu, we sampled a racy salad with chicken livers and a rack of lamb, magnificently crusty on the outside and pink and juicy inside. Despite a few flaws, the new scheme of things seems to have put some new life into the cook-ing, and the service, too, seemed newly attentive and helpful. (3851 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-1231. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

River House. The trick is to arrive early enough on a weekend night to be seated right away. That way. you’ll have the entire selection of specials to choose from. And you will be especially sorry if you miss out on the King Salmon. On a recent visit, this wonderful special vanished at 7:30 pm, but luckily for us, our order was taken in the nick of time. We also tried the house scampi -twice. The first order the waitress brought us resembled curled-up snails in a brown sauce, but before we could even venture a bite, she returned to snatch the plate away, saying that this order would never do. She returned just moments later with some of the plumpest crustaceans we’ve seen in a long time. Lying on a puffy bed of pilaf, the shrimp made a big hit at our table. (1660 S University. (817)336-0815 Lunch-Mon-Fn 11-2; dinner Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. DC. $$$)



D Revisits



D Saint-Emilion. Proprietor Bernard Tronche grew up in Saint-Emilion, a village in France’s Bordeaux area. Happily for the sake of Fort Worth residents, he moved to Cow-town and opened a charming restaurant that serves the best straight-ahead French food in Fort Worth or Dallas. Considering the four-course fixed price of $20 per person-an astonishing bargain by Dallas standards-it’s surprising that more Dallasites don’t make the trek. The last time I did, the results were impressive. A thoughtfully put together salad (leal lettuce, radicchio, watercress, walnuts, and bits of bacon dressed with walnut oil), textbook lobster bisque, rich spinach cannelloni, and creditable snails in garlic butter made for a great start (Order the last with the boneless quail and you’ve got the snail-and-quail special.) Actually, the over-complicated quail stuffed with Belgian endive was the one entree I was less than taken with Juicy swordfish provencal and nicely roasted duck with cherry sauce were all one could ask for. (Actually, one could ask that duck be boned.) For dessert. I would advise passing on the fluffy, light-weight chocolate mousse and opting for the extra-ordinary créme caramel. (3617 W Seventh. (817) 737-2781. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 6-10 pm, Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards.)