Juanita’s. Whoever had the big idea of importing a Mexican restaurant from New York (perhaps the last place in the world for Mexican food) to Fort Worth (the epicenter of the Tex-Mex universe)?
In this case there may be some justification, since the Juanita in the restaurant’s name is the wife of Dan Jenkins (the Texas novelist and one of those responsible for the birth of Texas chic). But as you sit in this neatly turned-out space in the renovated Sundance Square, you still have a right to feel disoriented.
The food at Juanita’s has a didactic smack to it-as if it were designed to teach the local yokels something about Mexican food. Well. Lord knows we could use some brushing up, but so far this is not (he way to do it. The quail with green rice sounded interesting, but on the day we ordered it, it was one of four (count ’em) dishes the waiter told us the kitchen had run out of (usually when the other dishes in that course were being served to the others at the table).
Another of the fancy-sounding dishes, the shrimp in fiery garlic butter, turned out to be a fizzle-the shrimp were in a thin sauce with a few new potatoes, a lot of limp green, red, and yellow peppers, and had neither fire nor much taste.
The basic Tex-Mex dishes also seemed to exist for instruction: the enchiladas had a bitter undertaste, as if they had been made with toasted ancho chiles and no cumin. The effect was interesting, but 1 wonder whether Fort Worth folks venturing out for their weekly Tex-Mex fix will take to them.
A few outright oddities clutter the menu at Juanita’s. I refer to the appetizers-where the most unusual listing is the calientitas-the name here for fried stuffed jalapenos. Naturally a Mexican restaurant is going to serve fajitas. But blackened redfisli? And the best dessert seems to be the Dove Bar-ice cream on a stick covered with a thick layer of high quality chocolate. (115 W. Second, Fort Worth. (817) 335-1777. Mon-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat noon-2 am, Sun noon-1 am. MC, V, AE. $$)
Chiang Mai. The ads for this place call it a “Chinese Thai” restaurant, but actually it’s almost purely devoted to Thai cooking-some of it uniquely satisfying. Chiang Mai is the name of a city in northern Thailand, reputedly one of the loveliest in the country-and judging from this namesake, we are ready to believe it. The pretty decor (inherited from a Chinese restaurant formerly in the location) and the courteous, helpful service make this one of the best places in Dallas to get acquainted with this delightfully exotic cuisine. The pork moo sate was some of the meatiest, most tender we have tried, for instance, and the shrimp coconut soup a complex masterpiece of spiciness. The red curry shrimp was almost perfect-the prawns were delicately resilient and the curry sauce was thick and creamy, with a slight touch of bitterness that added interest to it. The eggplant Thai style was as light as a nouvelle French dish, and the beef basil (tenderloin stir-fried with big leaves of fresh basil, onion, and garlic) delicious. The lovely Thai snack dishes of pad Thai (rice noodles with shrimp, eggs, and sprouts) and pineapple fried rice receive loving treatments here.
A few dishes didn’t quite meet this standard. The spring rolls came in a standard wonton-style wrapper {unlike any Thai spring rolls we had eaten before). The stuffed chicken wings were filled with a dense, tasteless meat filling, and the chicken with mixed vegetables was bland except for the inclusion of one lone, fiery strip of hot pepper. And beware of inquiring about desserts-the proprietor, out of the goodness of his heart, may spot you. on the house, adish consisting of sweet syrup in which tapioca nodules and corn kernels float. These disappointments, though, don’t keep Chiang Mai from being one of the growing number of really good Southeast Asian restaurants in town. (11277 E. Northwest Hwy., Suite 148. 340-4499. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$)
Tangier. This unassuming little place may be Dallas’ first Moroccan restaurant ever-and forgive us if we are not as excited as we would like to be. To judge from what is served here, Moroccan food consists mostly of overcooked and bland stews alternating with spicy cooked vegetables. Tajeen, for instance, is pieces of lamb sitting amid lots of soggy onions and a few soggy prunes, with some toasted almonds sprinkled on top. It was better than the sauteed chicken with olives or with green peas (so called on the menu-actually grayish in color), and better than the version here of the most famous Moroccan dish, couscous. Couscous-which can be dull in the best of circumstances-consists of cracked wheat steamed in a special apparatus, then topped with stewed meat and vegetables. In this form it was hard to see why it is a world-famous dish.
The appetizers and salad plate combos at Tangier were more interesting. The eggplant salad, the roasted green peppers, and the chakchuka (a homemade tomato sauce with more green peppers) were all very tasty, though the homous (a dip of creamed chickpeas with garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil) had a metallic flavor and the amhamer (a Moroccan omelette with vegetables, served in cold slices) was unappealing. But it’s always exciting to try a new cuisine, and the woman who runs Tangier is obviously trying hard to please. (4021 Belt Line. 458-9029. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10:30 pm, Sat noon-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)
Cedars Village Cafe. The Green Oaks strip-shopping center in Southwest Arlington is in an ideal location to serve the sprawled and growing suburbs, but it doesn’t offer the best exposure to one of its most promising clients. The Cedars, a Lebanese cafe, is wedged between those upscale retail shops common to affluent suburbia and across the parking lot from a teen-infested Taco Bell drive-through. But park the car and make the few steps over to a new world of take-out. You don’t have to take-out, and we prefer not to. Rather, we’re inclined to take our favorite bottle of wine (the cafe is dry but you can certainly bring your own) and have a leisurely dinner inside on the patio-a sort of urban picnic. The premier Lebanese restaurant in the Dallas/Fort Worth area is still Hedary’s on Fort Worth’s West Side, but the eggplant dip at The Cedars has made us regular customers. Everything on the limited menu is worth a try. And as far as the prices go, you can’t go wrong when a complete meal for two has a hard time reaching ten dollars. (5801 W 1-20. (817) 483-1988. Sun-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cafe de Medici. This is another secession restaurant-Luciano Cola, who runs it. used to be associated with Sergio & Luciano a few blocks west. Some of the staff members seem familiar, but the food at de Medici is more Continental than authentic Italian. The welcome is vibrant, the portions are large, the food tasty enough. But the last thing Dallas needs is more denatured Continental cuisine. We shouldn’t have to face linguine al caviar that is mushy and oversauced. It seems wrong that the best dish we sampled here was the rich and flavorful lobster bisque-hardly an Italian creation.
Perhaps the most Italian dish we found was the orecchioni alla bolognese-large twists of pasta stuffed with chicken and in a refined meat sauce. The cold salad of lobster and vegetables could hail from anywhere in Europe (or any place where there is a European-trained chef), but it too was notable. Main courses didn’t seem very distinctive. Both medallions of beef and large (rather sinewy) veal chops came in a strongly flavored bearnaise. The sauce on the chicken cacciatora was made from an authentic recipe-more ham and mushrooms than thick tomato sauce-but it was not reduced to the point of maximum flavor, and the chicken was slightly overcooked. The sal-mone alla ligura came in a caper and lemon butter sauce-there was really too much of it to finish. The desserts that we sampled from the cart included various cakes and cheesecake, but we didn’t find them very tasty or very satisfying. (5290 Belt Line, Suite 118. 991-7570. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
WE HAVE omitted the numerical ratings that previously accompanied each restaurant review. Our next biannual Restaurant Guide, which will be published in August, will unveil the new ratings of all the restaurants we review. Until then, however, we will continue to flag the superior – and highly recommended – restaurants with a big, bold D.
Restaurant visits by our reviewers are done anonymously in order to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this listing has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing structure is based on the cost of dinner for one, including an appetizer, entree, dessert, and glass of wine:
$, less than $10 (considered a good bargain)
$$, $10-$25 (middle ground for a good meal)
$$$, $25-$50 (expensive)
$$$$, $50 (very expensive)
“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.
Credit card notations include: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/Amencan Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
Bon appetit!
AMERICAN NOUVELLE
D BIom’s. Every dish here stretches the imagination to its ultimate. On our last visit the ever-changing menu yielded duck liver with ginger and mango; a salad of endives, oysters, and tiny beets; rack of lamb crowned with an herb souffle and lots of fresh rosemary; and a crepe filled with a light mixture of yams and walnuts. The wild-game terrine, the salad with goat cheese and crumbled walnuts, and the chocolate Marquise were exemplary, too. On this visit, so was the service. (Westin Hotel, Gallena, 13340 Dalias Pkwy. 934-9494 Daily 6:30-10 pm; Sun brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations recommended. Jackets and lies required All credit cards $$$$)
Catelina. From the owners of Zanzibar and the defunct Chickeria comes this new Lower Greenville attempt to combine New Southwestern Cuisine with various other Texas and California fads. Paradoxically, the cooking is pretty good but the food usually is odd at best. In the case of the Alamo Bay Noodles, the menu description says almost everything: Blackened Gulf prawns coated with cayenne, garlic powder, and coriander, sauteed until crisp and served on rice vermicelli noodles with black bean sauce. The chicken satay comes with a gloppy peanut butter sauce rather far from the real Asian thing and the Uncle Paul’s Popcorn Crawfish are marred by a sauce that claims to be Cajun but is mostly |ust sweet. The best things at Catalina are grilled – a fish special of amberjack, the veal ribs, and pork chops. (3707 Greenville. 828-0990. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11.30-2:30, dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri 6-midnight; Sat 11:30 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)
D Dakota’s. The new chef hired on at the end of the summer raised the food here to a new level. The grilled specialties like the medallions of tenderloin (accompanied by a silky sauce) and fish-of-the-day yellowfin tuna are once more reliably cooked. The accompanying grilled vegetables are not too smoky in taste and are done to just the right degree of tenderness. The daily pasta special, with scallops and wild mushrooms, has an autumnal richness that makes it one of the city’s foremost pasta dishes And if you thought duck soup was only the title of a Marx brothers movie, try the dish here-you’ll be in duck soup! (600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30; Sun brunch: 11 -2:30. All credit cards. Lunch $$. dinner $$$)
Gershwin’s. By daylight at Sunday brunch time. Gershwin’s takes on a whole new feel. The well-dressed set that gathers tor live music in the evenings is joined by pinafored young ladies fresh from Sunday school. Gershwin’s regular menu offerings- which feature lots of grilled things like chicken breast marinated and flavored with fresh oregano as well as fancy pastas -are joined by brunch classics like eggs Benedict and Belgian waffles with strawberries and whipped cream All of this off a special brunch menu (there is no buffet), and prices are reasonable, mostly between six and ten dollars. (8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville. 373-7171 Sun 10:30 am-midnight. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-1 am. All credit cards. $$)
Laurel’s. We couldn’t have been more pleased with the epicurean results on our latest visit to the posh restaurant at the top of the Sheraton Park Central Hotel near Central and LBJ. An appetizer of mesquite-grilled squab with tomatoes and Bibb lettuce was laced with a creamy vinaigrette dressing. The special entree of the evening was poached lobster with a memorable creamy, green basil sauce The lobster was tender and shelled, and the chef had taken the time to create a beautiful shell pattern out of the sauce. We finished every bite of the beautiful, fresh blueberries and whipped cream and the ricotta cheese/sponge cake. The next best thing Laurel’s has going for it besides the food is a fabulous view of the Dallas skyline. (Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit 385-3000. Mon-Sat 6 pm-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended Jackets required All credit cards $$$$)
D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Chef Dean Fearing has his own menu in place now. and the result is the most exciting cooking in town. The appetizer of rabbit and venison sausage is delightfully audacious, and the rich sauces on dishes like the roast Indiana duck are unmatched. You can’t go wrong with one of Fearing’s complex salads (like asparagus, pasta, and salmon in green apple vinaigrette), grilled fish (like Louisiana grouper with papaya-basil sauce), or any of the mouth-watering desserts Especially memorable was the chocolate-banana cream cake with orange curd sauce One element has been retained from the old Mansion menu – to get the delicious side dishes like the truffle potato or the zucchini, eggplant, and tomato casserole you still have to shell out extra bucks and lots of them. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd 526-212). Main dining room- jackets and ties required Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper Mon-Thur 10:30 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-midnight. Promenade Room – breakfast-daily 7-10 30: Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30 Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
Parigj. This trendy place doesn’t seem quite as popular as it was when it first opened a year ago. but we find that the food and service have actually improved. There’s still the same striving for originality -to the point of shocking, sometimes – but on our last visit all the far-out recipes worked. The salad of arugula and warm goal cheese was spiked with a vinaigrette with mashed black olives and sprigs of fresh herbs. The appetizer sampler plate included ratatouille (with yellow squash instead of zucchini) and a delicious curried tuna and pasta salad One of Parigi’s specialties is off-the-wall pasta combinations; ours of black-pepper fettuccine, chicken, candied onions, spinach, and Gruyere was cooked to perfection. So was the sauteed Pacific flounder, sauced with capers Both the chocolate glob (a pudding with lots of walnuts} and the pear cobbler came coated with a mound of lightly whipped cream (3311 Oak Lawn. Suite 102. 521-0295. Lunch- Tue-Fri 11:30-2 30; dinner: Tue-Thur 6:30-10.30 Fri & Sat 6:30-11; Sat brunch: 10-3. Closed Sun & Mon. MC, V, AE, DC. $$-$$$)
D West End Oasis. Probably the handsomest restaurant in Dallas with its granite waterfall and commissioned art. the West End Oasis boasts “cuisine du soleil”-a cross between New Southwestern and Provencal cuisines. The inventive soups and luscious desserts are almost always impressive, but the entrees (often grilled) sometimes lack oomph The tender young chicken, for instance, is grilled to |uicy doneness, but in these surroundings one expects some sort of sauce or something to give an extra boost of flavor. The most outstanding mam course we have tried is the swordfish. Service is attentive-sometimes a bit too much so. (302 N Market [entrance on Pacific] 698-9775. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner; Tue-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$$)
D REVISITS
D Routh Street Cafe. When this place is in lop form, it is as good as any restaurant in the history of Dallas. Appetizers were especially imaginative on our last visit; deboned, roasted quail halves sat on top of a sweet potato pancake bathed in a sauce made from one of the new California dessert wines; a ragout of lobster, sweetbreads, black mushrooms, and corn boasted a complex, creamy sauce The main courses were the most Mexican-influenced we had ever tried here: a sauce made of tomatillos and barely cooked black beans lapped a red snapper fillet, and a half-moon of slices of wild boar came with a sensational smoked vegetable tamale. As always, the little extras (cantaloupe-spearmint ice and the most delicate corn muffins in our experience) were exemplary, and desserts (blueberry tart with orange curd and blackberry buckle with cinnamon ice cream) remain peerless. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
BARBECUE/TEXANA
Anderson’s Barbecue House. This place used to be called Epp’s, and in fact, the sign on Harry Hines (right across from Southwestern Medical School) still reads that way But the name is really the only thing changed – the barbecue and fixin’s are still excellent, and the people are still friendly. The smallish ribs have a smoky flavor, and you can ask for outside cuts of the tender sliced beef. The side dishes are truly outstand ing, the trench tries and okra are both fresh and freshly fried. You can also find such delicacies as butter beans, green beans with ham, and even baked potatoes. (5410 Harry Mines Blvd. 630-0735. Mon-Fri 11 am- 7:45 pm, Sat 11 am-3 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Sonny Bryan’s. Some things never change, and thank goodness Sonny Bryan’s still seems to be one of them. The barbecue is unequaled in Dallas – smoky ribs with the slightest crunch of char, beef shces with a smooth texture and a rich flavor Aside from the vinegar-sparked sauce (served in dispensers kept hot on a warming plate) and fine onion rings, the rest of the food isn’t notable, bu!t the funky atmosphere is. You order standming up in the middle of a crowd, and sit on school desks if you can find one amid the litter. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-5 pm. Sat 10 am-3 pm,Sun 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards; persona! checks accepted. $)
CHINESE
Cathy’s Wok. When we heard that the Cathy for whom this restaurant is named is Catherine Liu, the local cookbook writer and Chinese cooking teacher, we headed eagerly tor Piano to check out the operation. Liu’s restaurant concept turns out to be a kind of Chinese fast food place. There is a drive-through at the end of the strip shopping center location, and much of the business is of the telephone-and-pick-up variety An added twist is that Cathy’s Wok claims that its food is healthier than at other Chinese places – only vegetable oil is used and no MSG is added to dishes-and that every effort is being made to keep prices low. The food is better-than-average Chinese restaurant fare, though not the special experience we had hoped for based on Liu’s reputation (4010 W 15th, Plano. 964-0406. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Closed Sun No credit cards $)
China Palace. This unlikely looking spot in a Richardson shopping center is open virtually all night long, and it proves the rule that some of the best Chinese restaurants are outstanding for a few dishes only The mostly Asian clientele seems to have been tipped off that the fried dumplings here are the best in the Metroplex-maybe in the country. The little crescents of filled dough come from the fire with a beautiful brown glaze on one side, the filling is tender, and the dipping sauce holds bits of hot pepper and coriander. Other dumplings on the long list are outstanding too, as is the beef noodle soup. The beef has the delicious spicy flavor of meat braised Chinese style, but the gelatinous texture may not be to all Occidental tastes. Stir-tried dishes from the regular menu are mostly only of average quality, but the version of orange beef is excellent. (400 N Greenville; Richardson. 669-1636 Daily 11 am-5 am MC, V $$)
D REVISITS
Crystal Pagoda. Crystal Pagoda is living up to its promise of becoming one of Dallas’ top Chinese restaurants. Bon Bon chicken, in a spicy peanut sauce, is a zingy appetizer for those who like hot foods-or you might try a half order of Peking duck, a bargain at $12.50. Hunan lamb, though not particularly peppery, proved subtle enough even for those who generally don’t find lamb appealing. And at Crystal Pagoda even an old standby like sweet-and-sour pork receives royal treatment-nice pieces of meat in a crisp crust topped with a delicate sauce. (4516 McKinney. 526-3355. Mon-Thur 11:30 am- 10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Imperial Dragon. The reality on the plate does not always match the splendor promised on the menu. Appetizers turn out to be mostly fried things; even the Crispy Ham is essentially just plain old shrimp toast with a strip of ham in a pretty pattern And the quality is not always exemplary -the pork balls, for instance, are dry and overcooked But there are unusual dishes like the steamed shrimp (cleverly twisted into little knots with strips of ham and black mushroom) that do work. And there are twists on well-known dishes that yield good results, like the honey apple dessert that has a subtle taste of rum. (2901 N Central, Suite 125, Piano. 423-6766. Lunch: daily 11-2:30, dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Forbidden City. Instead of a whole appetizer tray, we specialized in the meaty cho-cho and the nicely fried shrimp toast, with good results. Among the main courses. General’s chicken did not prove very spicy, but the fried chunks of chicken meat in a hearty sauce were satisfying anyway. At Forbidden City, Mongolian beef is essentially strips of beef stir-fried with lots of scallion. Shrimp with cashews made a pleasing lighter contrast. The watchful waiters here always make sure water glasses are full-sometimes to overflowing. (5290 Belt Line. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Pacific Pearl. This is one of the most pleasant Chinese places in the city. It’s airy, bright, and washed in soft pink colors Our mushrooms stuffed with shrimp could have offered more taste, but everything else-from a great cold noodle appetizer in peanut sauce to eggplant in a redolent garlic sauce and a bountiful menage à trois of chicken, beef, and shrimp-was first-class. And a note of praise for the service. Granted, the restaurant was far from crowded, but our waitress was attentive and instructive beyond the call of duty. (601 Pacific. 745-1688. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Taiwan. We hit both branches of this favorite Chinese place close together and found an interesting contrast. The original location on Greenville, which seemed elegant enough when it opened, now seems a bit dowdy in contrast to the newer location and to the other fancy Chinese restaurants in town. But it is probably the best place in town to eat late at night – the sauteed scallops we tried were perfectly cooked The Addison branch is similar in quality, but the handsome surroundings make the experience much more festive We enjoyed the whole fish with Szechuan sauce, the tangerine beef, and the chicken with vegetables. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902; 4980 Belt Line, Addison, 387-2333. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-3 am, Sat 10:30 am-3 am. Sun 10:30-10:30 at Greenville location; Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10.30pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30 at Addiison location Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$)
D Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. it’s always good to see a successful restaurant trying to better itself, so we were pleased to see that Uncle Tai had put a whole bevy of new specialties on the menu. Of the four we tried, three were winners. The crispy quail proved a wonderful appetizer The two main courses were extraordinary, too. The venison stir-fried with hot peppers and accompanied by large chunks of zucchini had a startling, slightly gamy flavor, and the Zesty Salmon had a crusty surface and a sauce (sure enough) zesty with ginger, vinegar, and wood ears. The one blah novelty was the chicken and ham stirred with shreds of iceberg lettuce One complaint: all the dishes were salty to a fault. Our high blood pressure makes us cry Uncle! (Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. Jackets required tor dinner All credit cards $$$)
DELI/LUNCH
Ms. Betty’s. The lady has moved her kitchen from the western edge of the Park Cities to the southern one (careful, the new Turtle Creek Village location is hard to spot). The simple fare of sandwiches (ham or chicken salad on luscious breads), soups, and salads is still executed with a lovely touch. You wonder sometimes, though, how it can take so long to dish up these spare delicacies for so few tables. And the portions are decidedly dainty-you won’t become stout from eating at Ms Bettys, even from the splendidly rich pies (served in half pieces). (185 Turtle Creek Village. 526-5084. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm, Sat 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Pacific Express. If you don’t get lost on the way (the building’s address is on Pacific, but the restaurant actually faces Elm), you can have a tasty lunch here amid lots of shiny chrome and oversized abstract paintings. Salad combinations include large portions of such unusual fare as salads made from wild rice or smoked chicken. Hetty sandwiches feature Iots of ham and cheese on coarse-textured bread. The desserts are lavish, from peach cobbler to chocolate-chip cheesecake. (Pacific Place Bldg, 1910 Pacific, Suite 103. 969-7447 Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. No credit cards, personal checks accepted. $)
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Arthur’s. We began with excellent crab meat-stuffed mushroom caps, which were piping hot, delicately seasoned, and served seemingly without benefit of microwaves. A second course of Caesar salad was equally well-prepared, as was an innovative cold, creamed puree of sweet potatoes. The entrees, alas, left us less inspired. A fettuccine in cream sauce with lobster and truffles was overbearingly rich, though crammed with lump lobster meal. A pepper steak in a sauce “of five varieties of peppercorns” fared better; both were accompanied with crunchy green snow peas. A final round of homemade vanilla ice cream with fresh blueberries and what is humbly touted as “the best chocolate mousse cake in the world” rounded out a generally satisfactory meal. (Campbell Centre, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30; dinner. Mon-Fri 6-11, Sat 6 pm-midnight. Closed Sun Ail credit cards. $$$)
Baccarat. Some dishes are extremely well done at this new North Dallas Continental restaurant. The baked oysters in a mushroom and wine sauce are as fine a cooked treatment of that mollusk as we have eaten; the subtle topping complemented rather than masked the flavor of the shellfish The escargots (with hazelnuts in the seasoned butler), the scallops in a creamy Vermouth sauce, and even the shrimp flavored with rum, tomato, and lime were all appetizers good enough to make us think Baccarat an interesting place to dine. Our entrees proved a mixed lot The best was the grilled swordfish with an orange sauce that did not intrude loo much on its natural flavor. (12660 Coit Road. 387-5555. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)
D Café Royal. The new menu returns this place to the glory it enjoyed when it opened; if the renaissance keeps up. soon Cafe Royal will again be one of the very top restaurants in Dallas. We tried several dishes that juxtaposed luxurious ingredients Salads that combined sauteed sweetbreads and medallions of lobster, or duck liver and tiny green beans, made first-rate beginnings A thick, juicy (if slightly underseasoned) veal steak was garnished with large shrimp And a pungent sauce made a grand unity of the combination of tender, meaty quail, hearty venison, and foie gras. The side dish of hand-whittled asparagus justifies the extra tab. and the dessert cart offers dark chocolate cakes and fruit tarts with flaky crusts. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$)
D Calluaud. Owner-chef Guy Calluaud is at his best with the magnificent dishes of the an-cienne cuisine: feather-light lobster souffle, perfectly roasted quail and pigeon in a gamy giblet sauce, rack of lamb encrusted with a coating of breadcrumbs and parsley He can also turn a nouvelle standard like a feuillete of asparagus into something richer and heavier by adding a soupcon of foie gras. On our last visit we also discovered some interesting salads, especially one of beautifully cooked artichoke bottoms and avocado. Desserts have always been a treat here; we enjoyed both the chocolate souffle and the delicate apple tart (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner. Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
D Chez Gerard. If we had to name one Dallas restaurant that seems most genuinely to reflect the tastes of France, it would be Chez Gerard. Some of the dishes it offers might well be considered old-fashioned in the old country, but even in France getting back to culinary roots is in vogue. Where else in Dallas, after all, can you find choucroute garnie-the French version of sauerkraut, served up with two kinds of sausage and two kinds of ham? Or rognons de veau-chunks of veal kidney stewed with bacon and mushrooms? These hearty dishes make us forgive the eminently forgettable first courses (sauteed shrimp, tough in a characterless sauce, and strong-tasting, chewy mussels) and the undistinguished house wine The desserts helped immensely, too, especially the light-as-feather floating island. (4444 McKinney. 522-6865 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner. Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. Lunch $$, dinner $$$)
D Chez Philippe. We were not fond of either appetizer special we tried on our last visit (mussels out of their shells and large frog’s legs in a green peppercorn sauce), but there is always much to enjoy at this elegantly appointed restaurant. Thick pieces of veal garnished with plum sauces were heavenly, but the new treatment of lobster (with Calvados and saffron) is not as striking as the previous one The little touches like salads, vegetable garnishes, and sorbets continue to sparkle Desserts, including marvelous souffles and tarts, have much improved Chez Philippe these days doesn’t always live up to the high standards of its departed chef, but it is still a place to be reckoned with. (5027 W Lovers Lane. 353-9444. Tue-Thur 6-9 pm, Fri & Sat seatings at 6 & 9 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$$$)
Don Pepe. Don Pepe is just good enough that you want it to be a lot better Don Pepe is almost a Spanish restaurant But the chef, who used to cook tor the Onassises, is not content to be merely authentic – he has to be more Continental and refined, and that’s a shame (since we have plenty of Continental restaurants in Dallas already and no real Spanish food). The escargots are great big snails tastily sauteed with mushrooms and a fillip of wine, and the shrimp scampi get essentially the same treatment. Entrees here, though, are decidedly a mixed bag. The worst disappointment was the Paella Don Pepe: a great platter of soggy rice and utterly tasteless globs of fish, chicken, pork, and seafood. Our best choices were the shrimp with garlic sauce, which had large crustaceans done to a turn, and the lamb chops mediterraneo, which presented us with a hall dozen chops cooked precisely pink as ordered and topped with a full-bodied red wine sauce. (13601 Preston 788-2266. lunch. Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards.)
D REVISITS
D The French Room. The ornate splendor here evokes diplomatic debates that would be worthy of Versailles. Is the Pithivier of snails in its puff pastry crown and its chive sauce the king of the appetizers, or does that title go to the special of toothsome mussels and oysters in a tureen of broth? Should we stick to a simple salad (say, of beets with watercress and endive) or hold out for one of the complex creations with smoked salmon and the like? We agreed that the beef tenderloin topped with a mixture of marrow, breadcrumbs, and garlic, swimming in a winy sauce perfumed with thyme, could only be matched by the lordly lobster (worth every penny of its fabulous price}. So we celebrated the truce with the feuillete of raspberries and a lemon tarl topped with golden meringue. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30. Fri & Sat seatings at 6:30 & 9:30. Reservations. Jackets and ties re-quired All credit cards. $$$)
The Garden Court. as the remodeling of this stately old hotel progresses, the Garden Court becomes a mote charming place to dine, with its high ceilings and its old-fashioned ambience. Sunday brunch is an especially pleasant time to try it. Complimentary mimosas or glasses of champagne (or fresh-squeezed juice for teetotalers) set off a feast that includes clams and crab claws alongside the usual oysters and shrimp Devotees of the eggs can choose between made-to-order omelettes or eggs Benedict. . .or take both. The beef roast is, for a happy change, a standing rib, and there are delicious alternatives like stir-fried chicken with lots of vegetables, broadcasting the odor of sesame oil. The various salads and the fruit table are lavish (when was the last time anybody offered you all the raspberries you could eat?); the desserts, though lovely, prove a bit of an anticlimax (Melrose Hotel, 3015 Oaklawn. 521-5151. Breakfast daily 6 30-11; Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11; Sunday brunch: 11-2, All credit cards. $$$)
Harpers. This penthouse restaurant, with a lovely view of the city suffers somewhat from being treated almost as an ad|unct of its bar. We don’t think that a cocktail hour buffet or a performing band adds much to the tone o1 an expensive restaurant. But the mostly classic food coming out of the kitchen can be surprisingly impressive. Our main courses-veal medallions in a green peppercorn sauce and Colorado lamb chops-were the best things, the veal tender and white, the lamb racy in its coating of rosemary and accompanying Choron sauce. The shrimp appetizer was a bit strange – its accompanying julienne of lime shocked us with its sweetness But, cliche or not. the final chocolate mousse was appealingly dense and rich. After dinner, try a little cheek-to-cheek dancing. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Central Expwy at Mockingbird 823-9180. Tue-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. MC, V. AE. $$$)
D Jennivine. Over the years, Jennivine has increasingly lived up to its claim to be a wine bar as well as a restaurant by offering a larger selection of wines by the glass We like to sample them to the accompaniment of some cheese and the rich, gamy pate maison (which we like better than either the pate de campagne or the salmon paté). As for the main courses, our salmon was delicately cooked, with a mustard sauce almost 1oo tame for the name A more robust mushroom sauce topped tender scallops of veal, and the tan of accompanying vegetables set them off nicely. About the only dish around here that smacks of England (the declared ethnic origin of the place) is the English trifle, an unusual dessert for Dallas. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
D L’Ambiance. There’s an occasional disappointment here, but we could eat the signature dishes at L’Ambiance over and over again. To rattle off the less-than-perfect things first, the pate was a bit fatty and lacked taste; a daily special of veal scallops fancese, though made from high-quality meat, suffered from an eggy batter and an undersea-soned sauce. The rest of the meal, though, was perfection. The rich, rich seafood bisque contained lots of tiny shrimp, and the red snapper-sauteed and topped with more seafood – was poetry itself Salads are very special here, and this time we discovered that the tomato salad rivals the one with spinach, bacon, and goat cheese. Firm red slices topped with a well-made vinaigrette and basil were a celebration of summer Desserts too, are local classics especially the Concord cake-two slices of chocolate meringue bonded together by chocolate pastry cream. (2408 Cedar Springs 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$).
L’Ancestral. Very like a country French inn in its food and atmosphere, L’Ancestral offers good basic dishes like vegetable soup or onion tad as appelizers. An interesting entree is the sweetbreads with mushrooms, in a sauce lightly touched with curry Other main courses can be duff, like lamb chops accompanied by pommes frites or a slightly fishy fillet of Dover sole. The chocolate truffle cake is very dark and not very sweet (you have to be careful not to breathe in the rich dusting of cocoa powder), but our favorite dessert is the ile flottante -a puff of meringue floating on delicate custard. (5631 Alta. 826-0006. Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-1 am. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)
La Bonne Auberge. Our most recent visit didn’t quite confirm the high opinion we had on first acquaintance with this mostly seafood, mostly French place. Over-cooked clams, salmon loo tart in its lime marinade, and watery paella all disappointed us. A swordfish steak was broiled correctly, but its sauce seemed blah Ironically, the best dish we tried had nothing to do with the sea-the pepper steak. Desserts are also better than average, especially the gooey concoction of fruit and sauce called the puits d’amour. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. MC,V, AE, DC. $$$)
La Touraine. This is the prettiest of Dallas’ new French bistros with its panelled walls and mirrors It can also offer first rate Fare smoky-tasting coq au vin, with a rich, winy sauce, or a subtle creme caramel At lunchtime there is not much choice among appetizers for those who want to make this the big meal o1 the day, but there is a selection of French sandwiches and other lighter dishes for the nibblers among us. (1701 N Market. 749-0080. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Tbur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-10:30. All credit cards. $$-$$$.)
Le Marmiton. We can’t quite figure why someone would go to the trouble and expense of creating such a pleasant restaurant environment and stick it away on a block of Lowest Greenville, but inside Le Marmiton boasts delicate crystal and good china, fresh linens, and fresh flowers. The food, though, is perplexing. There are enough really successful dishes to show seriousness in the kitchen; among the appetizers alone, the sauteed softshell crabs heaped with toasted almonds and the seafood sausage (grilled in its casing) are outstanding. But there are problems. The fish in three sauces boasted well cooked scallops, sole, and swordfish, but the sauces all lacked distinction. Perhaps the tastiest dish we tried was a daily special of lamb in amarvelously garlicky herb sauce- but leg of lamb does not take well to being sliced and cooked piecemeal (the individual muscles draw up and toughen), so the texture of the dish was not as successful as the taste. (1920 Greenville 821-6250. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11. All credit cards $$-$$$)
Papillon. Since its move to a far North Dallas location (incongruously, in the ground floor of an office building), Papillon looks stately. The food has its ups and downs, but in this neighborhood there isn’t much com-petition for the carriage trade. The ups on our most re-cent visit were the entrees. The veal scallops with chanterelle mushrooms were one of the best treatments around of an often mistreated cut of meat. The sauteed red snapper, lapped with an ivory sauce and surrounded by shrimp, was cooked nicely loo Appe-tizers-a bland crab casserole and underseasoned shrimp in a rose-colored sauce – and desserts were far less interesting. (Abrams Center, 9330 LBJ. 699-9788. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Mr. Peppe. We like the unpretentious atmosphere at Mr. Peppe, and being made to feel at home by the proprietor and the veteran waiters But we got little joy from our food on this visit Small globules of pasty matter in the complimentary mushroom soup made us wonder if it had come from a can, and the shrimp bisque we ordered was hardly more distinguished. After salads mostly of iceberg lettuce, we proceeded to the pepper steak-a good cut of meat compromised by a liberal dous-ing with inferior brandy (all the flames in the nether regions couldn’t mask the flavor). Red snapper Ponchartrain turned out to be sauteed, albeit slightly soggily, and topped with small shrimp and crab of doubtful origin We enjoyed most the dessert of heavily spiked chocolate mousse. Prices at Mr Peppe are low by the standards of Dallas Trench restaurants, but even at this tariff the meal didn’t seem any great bargain. (5617 W Lovers Lane. 352-5976. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Plus Fours. Plus Fours tries to be a British sporting pub and a grill both at the same time A mural of a British school sporting field graces the long wall, and quasi-antique sports memorabilia like old tennis racquets and cricket bats are hung strategically around the room. You will find items like Scotch eggs, lamb curry, and the ubiquitous mixed grill. These items from the dinner menu mostly disappear at lunch and late supper, when short order specialties like fish and chips put in their appearance. On weekends there are sup-posed to be larger feasts, with British favorites like roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and steak-and-kidney pie. (2504 McKinney. 871-2757. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun All credit cards $$$$$)
Pyramid Restaurant. This classic Dallas institution is interesting again after a long slump, though not quite as good this time around as on our previous visit. Aprix fixe dinner is now available and includes dishes like pasta with seafood as an appetizer and a thick veal chop as an entree. The a la carte selections, though, seem belter here. The lobster ravioli and the beef tenderloin in an unctuous Perigourdine sauce partake . of the splendor of the revivified setting. One of the nicest touches at the Pyramid Restaurant now is the selection of four champagnes by the glass, brought to the table iced down on a cart. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross at Akard. 720-2020. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-10. All credit cards. $$$$)
The Renaissance. We hardly had had time to mourn the passing of one of our lavorite restaurants, Jean-Claude, when this newcomer- with blue fabric on the walls in place of older paisley-opened in the same space The Renaissance is owned by the proprietor of Alessio’s-we suppose we have to call it Continental, with Italian overtones. There is no pasta listed on the menu, for instance, though we did enjoy an appetizer special of the day consisting of homemade pasta with mussels (still m their shells) tossed with a delicate tomato-based sauce. The menu boasts a lot of in-teresting appetizers like snails in a rich melange of chopped fresh vegetables, a seafood terrine with delicate pieces of shrimp, and a surprisingly lasty chicken gumbo. Among the main courses, we were taken with nicely pink lamb chops, accompanied by sensationally herby eggplant and zucchini, and fresh sprigs of rosemary perfumed a moist swordfish steak. (2404 Cedar Springs. 671-0818,. Mon 6 pm-10 pm, Tue-Sat 6 pm-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
St. Martin’s. The main commodity at this intimate, romantic spot is atmosphere. The food, although competently done, is secondary For openers, the escargots Bouchee, with snails placed precariously atop a pastry doused with a white wine and garlic sauce, had so much garlic that the otherwise delicious snails proved inedible The house special, a delicious tenderloin served in a tasty borde-laise sauce, was degraded by scallops past their peak of freshness The bright spot was the winelist, offering a large selection at very reasonable prices, There were also many good pate board offerings. (3020 Greenville. 8260940. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-12:30; Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards. $$$)
D The Riviera. With several of the better French restaurants in town sagging or closing recently, The Riviera seems more of a treasure than ever – and more serious about its claim to serve dishes from the south of France. The warm welcome by host Franco Bertolasi puts guests in the expectation of something special A recent visit netted us a prize of smoked scallops swathed in an unctuous sauce; by comparison, the other appetizer of tortellini with escargots was a mere second best. Both entrées, though, were winners: light and crisp St. Pierre (a Mediterranean fish) and perfectly cooked lamb chops, smelling of Provence with their seasoning of garlic and fresh rosemary. It was hard to finish the dessert of dense chocolate truffle cake after such a repast, but somehow we managed, (7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11, Sun 5:30-10 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)
Three Vikings. The Scandinavian bric-a-brac on the walls had always struck us as the most ethnic thing about this restaurant-the cuisine is mostly middle-of-the-road Continental with a few Nordic touches. The Swedish meatballs, for instance -available either as an appetizer or as a main course-are not authentically dry but come in a heavy, glutinous (though tasty) sauce. The Veal Norway seems pretty close to a stuffed Veal Oscar to us- the hollandaise sauce is fine, but the crab meal may taste fishy; the stuffing, alarmingly, reminds us of the stuffed flounders that used to plague seafood menus nereabouts. A special of the day of sauteed salmon was much more pleasant. One thing you can’t accuse the Three Vikings of is succumbing to the trend to light” meals: both the signature shrimp chowder (strong with the taste of dried dill) and the chocolate cheese pie are undeniable heavyweights. (2831 Grenville at Goodwin. 827-6770, Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm; Sun brunch 11-2. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$)
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN
Bohemia. The fad of “lite” cooking has not invaded this little corner of Czechoslovakia, with its lace curtains and photos of Prague on the walls. Everything served here is substantial, in proper Middle European fashion. The choice of appetizers (beyond the salad and soup (hat come with an entree) is narrow, we found the beef tartar surprisingly tasty in spite of its mushy, almost blended consistency, but wondered whether the liver paté had actually been made on the premises. The Czech version of sauerbraten was sweeter and less sour than most of its German cousins – the sauce delicately spicy but the meat not quite tender. Roast duck had a gloriously crisp skin but dry. overcooked flesh. Both came with bread dumplings oven heavier than the liver dumplings that had graced our soup. After all this nourishment, if you haven’t room for strudel, you might try the berries glacé- not exactly slimming with its combination of strawberries, ice cream, meringues, liqueur, and whipped cream, but refreshingly tart and sweet. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-9 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
Cafe Kashtan. After closing for a few months, Dallas’ only Ukrainian restaurant has reopened. The worst service problems seem to have been solved, though the policy of cooking everything from scratch still makes for a slowish pace – leave plenty of time for an evening visit. For starters, the best things here remain the soups (like the tart, cold green schi or the salanka, with beef, sausage, and vegetables) or the delicious beet, potato, and sauerkraut salads. The chicken tabaka (half a bird flattened and sauteed) and the beef stroganoff are good choices among the main dishes, accompanied by well-dressed salads and nicely cooked potatoes, pasta, or rice. Desserts change daily the almond cake with raspberry sauce will satisfy any sweet tooth At lunchtime a number of unusual specialties are available (5365 Spring Valley Rd at Mont-fort. 991-9550. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun All credit cards. $$)
D Rolf’s. This time we decided to explore a few of the byways of the menu of this fine establishment, but we were not always rewarded by our daring The herring salad was both loo sweet and loo sour, and neither the crab meat in our appetizer nor that served with our veal entree tasted fresh. The schnitzel Holstein (a veal cutlet with a tried egg on top and accompanied with anchovies and capers) was crisp and greaseless but undersalted Both chocolate desserts-the Sachertorte and the mousse cake-were pleasant but lacked that richness that attracts the loyalty of diehard chocolate fans We’ll continue to go back to Rolf’s with plenty of anticipation-but for the dishes like the Sauerbraten and the apple cake that have never disappointed us. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 117 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sun. Reservations recommended All credit cards. $$$)
GOURMET CARRYOUT
D REVISITS
Marty’s. Marty’s deserves its reputation as Dallas’ premier spot for buying fancy foods and wines. It is always a treat to be tempted by the endless variety of foods here, from the fresh fruits to the most esoteric array of cheeses in town (we indulged in Boursault, a creamy French cheese hard to find elsewhere in town). The establishment also makes its own delicious breads and a bewildering assortment of pates (we tried wild boar with chestnuts and pheasant with pears). The selections of dips (we loved the one of green chiles), salads (the ziti was special), and desserts (the rich chocolate cake satisfied our craving for a week) are exemplary. Only the take-home entrees sometimes disappoint: the moussaka was fine, probably better than that of any Greek restaurant in town, but the game hen in an orange sauce lacked flavor (3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070 Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards, Marty’s charge $$$)
Rich Chicks. Theresa Alexander, whose previous ventures include the Stoneleigh P and The Lounge in the Inwood Theatre, had an idea for a new sort of fast-food place – one that would look classy and serve healthier food than the usual places As you might guess, Rich Chicks serves Rich Chicks (and a few complements) to rich chicks. The chickens are butterflied and coated with spices (fennel predominates), then slowly roasted and carved to order The accompaniments consist of an uncooked tomato sauce (rather like a thick gaz-pacho), pita bread, and a lovely lettuce-less Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, and feta cheese. The food all tastes fine – the chicken is juicy (except for the drumsticks, which tend to get overcooked and stringy) and is good either hot or cold. You can also call in your order ahead of time for faster service (Northwest Corner of Preston Royal Shopping Center, next to the Post Office. 691-7424. Daily 11 am-9 pm. $)
GREEK/MIDDLE EASTERN
Gulf Coast Oyster Company. Dallas now has lots of good seafood houses, but only one Greek seafood place. This narrow, bustling restaurant serves the Greek caviar dip, taramousalata, before all entrees and offers a Greek appetizer platter, too (with crunchy fried squid and shrimp). Main dishes include skewered chicken and shrimp, grilled Greek-style, and shrimp cooked with feta cheese in a (too sweet) tomato sauce The fish of the day can be even better-the sweet, delicate brill (a Mediterranean fish something like a flounder] was one of our favorite fish dishes ever. The baklava for dessert, though, proved slightly stale (Corner Shopping Center, 8041 Walnut Hill Lane. 361-1922 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fn5-1l. Sal 11-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$-$$$)
Mr. Shishkabab. Finally Dallas has a really good Middle Eastern restaurant again, complete with bellydancer, and we hope the hard-to-find location wont jinx it. Mr. Shishkabab offers mostly the basics like the wonderful Middle Eastern dip made from chickpeas, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and sesame paste called hummus. The other best appetizer is the tabouleh, that refreshing salad of minced parsley, bulgur wheat, and lemon juice Otherwise, save your appetite for the main courses, because They come garnished with some of the best tidbits that can be ordered as appetizers -felafel and stuffed kibbeh. Both the kebabs of lamb and shrimp are delicious, and even a simple steak takes on an international flair here. If the restaurant gets busy you may find the kitchen and the well-meaning service slow (9454 Marsh Lane, just north of Northwest Highway. 350-9314 Daily 11 am-3 pm and 5:30 pm-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
INDIAN/ETHIOPIAN
D India Palace. This new Indian restaurant has a larger menu than other spots, a slightly fancier decor, and slightly higher prices. We think it is worth the extra cost to sample the new dishes and have Che extra comfort. If you are feeling adventuresome, try the red snapper (stuffed with finely chopped fruits and vegetables and piquantly sauced) or the lamb shahi korma. The fandoori dishes (meats roasted in the Indian barbecue oven, served with delicious bread called na’an) are perfect for the more cautious. (13360 Preston. 392-0190. Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-10:30 pm $$)
D Kebab ’n’ Kurry. If we were forced at gunpoint to name our favorite ethnic restaurant in Dallas, this would probably be it. We suspect that part of the secret lies in the comparatively limited menu. There are really only a few delights of North Indian cuisine offered, but they are done superlatively, from the chicken korma (rich, creamy, and mild) to the shrimp in a tomatoey curry sauce. Paradoxically, you can find the rarest treasures here at the weekend lunch buffets. They offer such unusual delicacies as curried fresh black-eyed peas and lamb ribs (bony but magnificently sauced), lor the ridiculously low price of $6.95 for all you can eat, including a dessert like the barely sweet rice pudding studded with chunks of fresh coconut. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson, 231-5556, 2620 Walnut Hill Lane, 350-6466. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. All credit cards. $-$$)
Tanjore. During the week, you can find good North Indian food here (the kitchen can be stow to bring it out, but it’s worth waiting for) We are fond of the chicken tanjore (a version of chicken tandoori, but not made in the clay oven typical for that dish) and the cubes of fried homemade cheese (with something of the texture of tofu) cooked in a spicy spinach sauce These are standard items in Indian restaurants in America, but at lunch on weekends you can get something really unusual here: dishes from South India. There are rice cakes called idli and little savory fried doughnuts, curried lentils, and fresh coconut chutney. The dish most likely to appeal to Americans is the masala dosa, a thin crepe of fermented dough cooked crisp and folded around a filling of curried potatoes. One of the nicest things about the South Indian dishes is that they are cheap enough to justify trying on an experimental basis. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Beltline Rd 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner, daily; 6-10: brunch Sat & Sun 11:30-3. All credit cards. $-$$.)
Adriano’s. This fashionable pizzeria in the Quadrangle, with its exposed metalwork and warehouse-style ceiling, hides nothing -including its bad service One waiter for the whole place? The customers deserve better. But Gamberetti, a combination of shrimp, shallots, and chives, is a welcome departure from the typical pizza, heavy on the cheese and just the right size. The even bolder Salome, of capers, onions, and goat cheese, was sharp and satisfying. The fettuc-cine Lumache, stuffed with escargots and bathed in white wine, is also a good choice. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 170. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Café Italia. As usual, we were stuffed when we left this tiny restaurant tucked away on Maple Avenue across the street from Elliot’s Hardware. The one thing we love about Cafe Italia is that there is no skimping on the garlic here – particularly on the crispy garlic bread. We were impressed with the creamy fettuccine Alfredo sauce and the spicy linguine with while clam sauce The special of the day was chicken romano, baked in light, buttery bread crumbs and covered with a creamy romano cheese sauce Pasta and vegetables on the side weren’t especially memorable, and neither were the desserts. The cappuccino pie was bland, and the strawberries in whipped cream were limp-as though they’d been sliced too soon. Despite the shortcomings, you can’t beat the place for its reasonable prices and excellent service. (5000 Maple. 521-0700. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11-2, dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 530-11. Closed Sun MC, V, AE. $$)
Chianti. This looks like just another neighborhood Italian restaurant, and not a very prepossessing one at that, but the food makes it worth coming from farther than just around the block. The style is mostly Northern Italian, and if the cooking doesn’t have a great deal of subtlety it is very tasty indeed. Among the appetizers the scampi napoleone are shrimp in a pungent garlic and brandy sauce. The linguine alla puttanesca features al dente noodles and a robust sauce of tomatoes, olives, capers, and anchovies A fillet of ocean perch (a daily special) had a perfect texture and was topped with a suitably light tomato sauce. The light, crusty Italian bread has a toasty outside, and the dessert gelati (in flavors like white chocolate chip a zuppa inglese) are from a good supplier. (9526 Webb Chapel Road 350-7456. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. MC, V. $$)
Ciao! This shrine to unusual pizzas sits on one of the gaudiest stretches of Cedar Springs- the view out the glass front is as entertaining as any floor show Inside, the food is good, if not overwhelming The famous spinach pizza, for instance, we found more odd than appealing; the combination of mounds of chopped greens with underdone strips of Italian bacon was not helped by a less than perfectly crisp crust. The moz-zarella (advertised as fresh) on a plainer pizza was rather rubbery We had no complaints about an al dente order of pasta topped with a pesto sauce with plenty of basil and garlic, but a daily special of a sauteed chicken breast was boring. (3921 B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-midnight, Sun 3 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Da Piccolo. We thought the move to new, larger quarters down the block – the old church once occupied by the bar of that name-might have restored some of the initial spark that once made this the favored Italian bistro in town, but a visit didn’t support this theory Offhand service dished out a fishy-tasting scampi appetizer and pretty good tortellini (the best dish on this foray). Chicken scar-pariello suffered from too strong a taste and too acid a balance, and veal Marsala lacked finesse Dessert turned out to be an unprepossessing slice of cheesecake and a chocolate pastry brought in from La Madeleine bakery and still bearing its imprint. (4501 Cole. 521-1191. Lunch Sun, Mon. Wed, Thur 11-2, dinner: Sun, Mon, Wed Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$)
Cremona. Hidden away at the end of Routh Street in Oak Lawn, this place gave us one of the most pleasant outdoor dining experiences we’ve had. The tiny little restaurant isn’t elegant or sophisticated, but it is com-fortably casual – just the sort of place to take a friend 1or lunch. There aren’t more than ten selections on the menu, but the fettuccine with mushrooms and the lasagna were well-prepared and flavorful and were delivered to our table by handsome Italian waiters. The entrees came with a salad that was tasty, although the lettuce could have been fresher. Desserts are typical: cheesecake and mud pie. (3136 Routh 871-1115. Lunch: Man-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun, All credit cards. $$)
La Tosca. La Tosca was the first restaurant to give Dallas a glimpse of many of the treasures of the Italian kitchen. It’s still the same lovable frustrating place it has always been -just as you think you are experiencing one of the great Italian meals of your life, along come a dish or two to disappoint you. On our last visit, the oc-topus salad was perfectly tender and flavorful, the crespelie (Italian crepes) beautifully filled and sea-soned: the tortellini alla nonna ideally creamy. We were not as fond o1 the shrimp-and-pea risotto as of the previous version with various seafoods, but it was still a fine dish But then the shrimp provencale and the veal scallops topped with cheese proved decidedly lack-luster. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Sun 6-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations Tue-Tur & Sun only. All credit cards $$$)
Mario’s. Venetian glass and ruby-colored walls set the tone of elegance here. The food sometimes matches that standard, and sometimes doesn’t Our last visit was more down than up. The cannelloni in a cream sauce was tasty, but the seafood in a hot sauce poured over an artichoke did not complement the vegetable’s taste. We also suffered from a special of grilled redfish which had a harsh basil sauce, and a scallop of veal with shrimp had a dark sauce that seemed at odds with both main ingredients. Our favorite dish this outing was a refreshing Grand Marnier mousse. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6 11 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
Pletro’a, The owners have added an enclosed porch and made some other decorative changes since our last visit, but even with the extra seating, there’s always a wait on the weekends We sampled linguine with clam sauce, which was just right – not too fishy and not too heavy on the sauce -and one of the chef’s suggestions, chicken cacciatora, tender baked chicken with fresh tomatoes, zucchini, mushrooms, and green peppers in a wine sauce. The side order of spaghetti, un-(orlunalGly, was pretty close to Chef Boyardee quality. We also tried a chocolate sundae with Pietro’s homemade chocolate sauce (rich and satisfying) and real Italian cheesecake The waitress warned us that real Italian cheesecake is made with ncotta cheese, so it’s not very sweet, and she was right. (5722 Richmond. 924-9403. Tue-Tur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11:30 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. MC, V. $$)
Pizzeria Uno. The best things about this place for Chicago-style deep-dish pizzas are the pies themselves: buttery crusted, with inch-deep heaps of sausages, cheeses, and vegetables. Some come with little or no tomato sauce – the seafood pizza uses lots of garlic for flavor instead There are some pretty good side dishes, but the best accompaniments are libations from the bar that forms the heart of the restaurant. The main drawbacks at Pizzeria Uno are the noise and the service, which we have found to be slow and spacey even at off hours, let alone at mealtimes, when the place is usually packed. (4002 Belt Line, Addison. 991-8181. Mon & Tue 11 am-10:30 pm, Wed & Thur 11 am-11:30 pm, Fri & Sat noon-12:30, Sun noon-10:30. MC, V, AE. $$)
D Ristorante Savino. For consistency and authenticity, this is probably Dallas’ finest Italian restaurant. Our latest visit gave us opportuni-ties to taste a splendid version of vitello tuna (cold, thin slices of braised veal topped with a sauce flavored with tuna and lemon and crowned with capers). The cro-chette-small croquettes made of fried stuffed crepes-were less exciting, but both pasta courses ere cooked magnificently cavatelli (pasta shells in a sauce strongly flavored with tomato, garlic, and cheese) and angel hair pasta in a lobster sauce. Our 3t dishes – delicate scallops of veal in a wild mushroom sauce and large shrimp in a golden sauce smelling of saffron-were exemplary. Desserts have improved steadily as Ristorante Savino has matured; the profiteroles are worth every calorie. (2929 N Henderson. 826-7804. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
Ruggeri. This is in the location the ill-fated restaurants Mexico and Palermo formerly occupied, but Ruggeri’s has a new. much more formal look- and, what’s more important, much better cooking. The cioppino was as good as any we have tasted, with a rich (but not too aggressive) tomato broth in which shrimp, scallops, mussels, and other shellfish swam, The scampi livor-naise had plenty of garlic and a nice texture, and the calaman fritti came to the table crisp and hot The lasagne verde was layered with beef, sausage and cheese, and a delicious besciamella sauce covered one end, The tournedos miranda were fork tender and the sauce had plenty of character. (2911 Routh. 871 7377 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-11:30, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)
Sfizi. This West End Italian place has really picked up steam since our last visit, when it was almost empty. We even had an unexpected twenty-minute wait for our table The menu is brief but supplemented by a chalkboard specials menu, which the waiter brings to your table and explains thoroughly The fried calaman was a pleasant appetizer, but the shrimp champignon was perhaps a little loo ambitious. For our entrees, the Chicken marsala was delicious, as was the eggplant The tortellini was also tasty but not served hoi enough The cannoli made an adequate dessert. The minor defi-ciencies in the kitchen were compensated for by the efficient and pleasant service, if you like concrete-floor-and-neon-light ambience, you should have a pleasant experience at Sfizi. (1718 Market 698-9390. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-2 am, Sat 5 pm-2 am, Sun 5-11 pm. All credit cards $$)
JAPANESE/KOREAN
Fuji-Ya. This tiny Japanese restaurant looks more authentic than it once did (there is now a kind of sushi bar), and the food remains a pleasant introduction to this Asian cuisine. There are the usual combinations of tempura and teriyaki, plus more out-of-the-way items like yaki soba (slightly spicy Japanese noodles), shabu shabu (simmered beef slices and vegetables), and grilled fish. A few varieties of sushi are available either ; a main course or an appetizer. (13050 Coit. 690-8396. lunch: Mori-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Korea House. As always we were welcomed hospi-tably by the Korean ladies who run this place. This time we skipped the appetizers and went right to a selection of main dishes and were rewarded by a satisfying meal. We always enjoy kalbi gui, Korean barbecued ribs that are more like the Mexican version, agujas, than their American counterpart. Tiny shrimp stir-fried with a myriad of vegetables and little chunks of fried chicken coated with a spicy sauce were complemented by the delightful Korean cold vegetables: vinegary cucumbers, bean sprouts touched with sesame, and. of course, kimchee, the Korean five-alarm spiced cabbage. (Promenade Center, Coit at Belt Line, Suite 610, Richardson. 231-1379 Daily 11 am-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Mr. Sushi. Now that it has expanded in size. Mr. Sushi is nore than ever Dallas’ most enjoyable Japanese restaurant. If you’ve picked up the taste for raw fish – we read somewhere that 7 percent of Americans have taken the plunge, and our four-year-old is one of them – the sushi bar enables you to pick and choose among the juiciest morsels. Yellowfin tuna is a consistent winner, and this time we found an interesting con-coction of scallops in a mayonnaise-like dressing wrapped up in seaweed. If you prefer to sit at a table the service is extremely polite. You can choose among appetizers like kara age chicken (plump chunks deep-fried – McNuggets were never like this) or tofu steak (fried bean curd sitting atop a gingery sauce). The sukiyaki, though, we found disappointing. (The Quorum,4860 Belt Line, Addison. 385-0168. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5 30-11, Sun 5:30-10. All credit cards. $$)
MEXICAN
Ataman’s. This is a completely different place, both in looks and in menu, from its first incarnation as a branch of Raphael’s some years back. Now it is very individualistic: neither authentically Mexican, for the most part, nor conventionally Tex-Mex You might call it an American response to Mexican cuisine. It is also wildly uneven from dish to dish. The version of ceviche is excellent, and the chicken mole is the best version we have had in a restaurant in the United States-the sauce was obviously homemade and marvelously complex, despite the ring of pineapple on top But we heard a waiter scaring an inquisitive customer away from the mole toward one of the less successful combination plates, in which the adaptations of Mexican ideas seemed to us sometimes just plain odd. (13601 Preston Road. 387-2620. Lunch. Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9 Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Baja Louie’s. This is not the first Mexican restaurant to occupy this space, but perhaps the first to do so with such pizzazz The atmosphere is festive and loud (even on a Sunday afternoon live music alternates with music videos on a giant screen, and at night you have to be of age even to get in the door). I he food probably doesn’t matter much amid the flurry, but it may well be better than it has to be Baja Louie’s fajitas may no longer be the best in town, but they certainly are honest and meaty- not overmarinated and always served on a bed of onions to keep the meat from getting burned. The Tex-Mex plates are for hearty eaters- the portions are most generous (The Corner Shopping Center. 8021 Walnut Hill at Central Expwy. 361-5192. Mon-Thur 11 am-11:30 pm, Fri 11 am-12:30 am, Sat 11:30 am-12-30 am. Sun 11:30-11:30. MC, V, AE. $)
Café Cancun. We found the atmosphere of this Mexico City-style restaurant quite airy, a pleasant departure from the typical close seating in most Mexican restaurants. We also found the service exceptional. Our waiter was courteous and helpful, our glasses were filled often, and a new basket of chips was on our table before we finished the first. But we saw no marked improvement in the cuisine since our last visit. The chicken nachos, made with black beans. Chihuahua cheese, chicken, guacamole, sour cream, and jala-penos, were average, as were the fajitas and sour cream chicken enchiladas We remember when the food here was better. (4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011; Caruth Plaza, Park Lane at Central Expwy, 369-3712. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm, at Lomo Alto location; Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon- 10 pm at Caruth Plaza location. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cafe Rincon. We had heard some complaints about both food and service here, but when we returned to check them out all seemed well as before. Our server was not as cordial as some we have had here, but was efficient. And the food was delightful Flautitas (crisp tortillas rolled around spicy chicken meat) made a great starter. The red snapper was touted as very fresh, and so it was, with its garlicky sauce. The carne asada a la tampiquena boasted tenderloin that melted in the mouth alongside searing-hot peppers, an enchilada, and a tiny cilantro-laden pot of beans. (2818 Harry Hines. 871-7280. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3; dinner Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cantina Laredo. Mow many places catering to gringos serve the homey Mexican dish of chicken and rice, arroz con polio? (We have had more exciting versions, in truth, but hardly any versions at all are available in Dallas.) Even enchiladas (chicken), tacos (made with machaco, slivered meat), and tamales are authentic here. And the search for definitive fajitas and other grilled specialties ends right on this doorstep: the mes-quite taste balances perfectly against the marination, and the accompanying grilled scallions, frijoles al charro, guacamole, and flour tortillas are all outstanding too. The churros (long Mexican cinnamon-dusted fritters) are to die for, and the flan is also outstanding. We are also impressed with the smooth and courteous service (4546 Belt Line. Addison. 458-0962. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $-$$) Chiquita. We’d say that Chiquita – with its festive, oversized paper flowers everywhere – never changes, only the “new specialties” that are periodically rotated on and off the menu constantly add variety. This time we tried the appetizer of rajas con crema – tender strips of chile poblano, tiny pieces of diced zucchini, cheese, and cream all wrapped up in flour tortillas-and found them soothing and satisfying. The other dish new to us was the filete encebollada, strips of beef sauteed with onions and peppers. We also liked the “pipos” (tiny flautas filled with shrimp). The chicken breast in a mole sauce, though, was a tad disappointing-the sauce lacked the complexity and richness that this Mexican classic can have. (3810 Congress. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
Chito’s. If you are looking for authentic Tex-Mex in a down-to-earth setting and Herrera has a line down the block, you might drive on down the street to Chito’s. This place may actually be more authentic – it doesn’t feel so self-consciously picturesque, and you will probably encounter a larger percentage of Mexican clientele. The standard Tex-Mex items are well done -lacos and enchiladas are particularly appealing. The menu doesn’t go in for many newfangled fancy items, either; even the now standard fajitas are strictly downhome The meat is grilled instead of charcoal-broiled, it hasn’t been marinated to death, and it doesn’t come on a sizzling platter. But the dish, like the restaurant that serves it, is pleasant in its unassuming way. (4447 Maple, 526-9027; 3437 Walnut Hill, 351-9554. Sun-Tue & Thur 9 am-9 pm. Fri & Sat 9 am-3 am. Closed Wed, at Maple location. Tue-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Mon, at Walnut Hill location. MC, V. $)
El Gallito. Our recent visits here have left us with more vivid impressions of decor and service than food. We recommend sitting in the little rain forest-patio out back; the pianist inside is talented, but miked way too loud for such an intimate room. On the patio, you could easily be in Cancun- until the meal arrives. Then you could be at any of a hundred uninspiring Tex-Mexeries. We chose seafood specialties and basic Mexican entrees, and found them all just… okay As a measure of the meal’s ordinariness, the two edible things that stood out were the whole apples served with each meal (a Mex-ican Oktoberfest?) and the fortune cookies that lopped off the evening. (4202 Ross. 826-6681. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-midnight, Fri 11:30 am-1:30 am, Sat noon-1:30 am, Sun 5 pm-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $-$$)
Garza Blanca. You may recognize the name as that of a famous resort in Puerto Vallarta. The ceviche is spec-tacularly fresh and tasty, with a strong taste of lime, olive oil, and especially capers. The chiles rellenos are a good, light-texiured version, but perhaps the best choices for main dishes here are the charcoal grilled specialties, which are oddly identified by the sounds that the animals being served made when they were alive {beef is Moo. frog’s legs Ribbet Ribbet-combi-nation dinners make a whole barnyard of sounds} The meats are deliciously seasoned with vinegar, oil, and oregano before cooking, and the butterfly pork chop and the fajita steak are particularly lender and moist. The mango ice cream topped with perfectly ripe slices of fresh mangos is an exciting dessert, with Mexican anise and cinnamon cookies served on the side. Return visits have sadly revealed that service declines and noise abounds on a busy evening here. (2508 Maple. 871-0530. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Genaro’s. This cool, tropical oasis would be great-tor people-watching, sipping margaritas, dancing on Sunday nights- even if no food were available. But it is, and most of it’s quite reliable. On recent visits we’ve tried ceviche, seafood nachos, flautas, the excellent torta del mar, and basic Tex-Mex, and come away smiling every time. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Javier’s. This is Yankee Mexican food: pricey, prettier than a combination plate, peculiar to natives weaned on crispy tacos. Things like red snapper mop de ajo (succulent fillets dripping with buttery garlic, lime juice, and while wine) and filete pimienta (mouth-watering tenderloin in a piquant black pepper sauce) don’t crop up too often at Rosita’s. But we are blessed that they do appear with consistency at Javier’s, surely one of the most enjoyable restaurants in Dallas. Oh, and don’t miss the appetizer of cheese panela (grilled Monterrey Jack with Mexican sausage) flamed a tavola, or the chocolate mousse laced with Tia Maria and walnuts. (4912Cole 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5 30-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
La Botica. The mishmash of Dallasites who have found La Botica (it’s nearly hidden on Haskell Avenue about a mile east of Central) must like it for the same reasons we do: it’s casual, fairly quiet, and steeped in family-run friendliness. The food – Mexican staples with a hefty addition of beef dishes – is fine but rarety exciting. Particularly good: the tangy enchiladas verdes, the simple tacos, and the spicy chicken soup. Our otherwise happy visits met with two disappointments: the ho-hum and smallish carne asada and La Botica’s tendency to be out of things we want to order. (1900 N Haskell. 824-2005. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
La Casita. The two sisters and their mother who run La Casita are capable of turning out some of the best Mexican food in Dallas, but you can’t always count on their performing up to standard. Fajitas on our last visit, for instance, were tough and fatty, and chicharrones (the Mexican version of chitlins) did not have the green sauce promised on the menu. But there is usually something outstanding A taste of La Casita’s beef enchiladas, chiles rellenos, or chicken mole will probably make you forgive any shortcomings elsewhere (1908 Greenville. 821-8151. Mon, Wed, Thur 9 am-midnight, Fri-Sun 9 am-3 am. Closed Tue. No credit cards.)
D REVISITS
Mario’s Chiquita. A return visit confirmed that Mario Leal is doing a good job of reproducing the high quality of food and service found in his older restaurants at this one way up in Piano. The new specialties are available even at lunch, and include beef tips sauteed with onions and gently seasoned The kitchen turns out several excellent renditions of shrimp-our favorite is a ring of large ones cooked with abundant garlic, served with a classic version of Mexican rice. If you don’t have time or room to order dessert from the menu, be sure to pick up one of the unique cinnamon-flavored pralines. (221 W Parker, Suite 400, Piano. 423-2977. Mon-Thur 11:.30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11 Closed Sun. MC,V, AE. $$)
Pepe’s. Next door to the Routh Street Cafe (Dallas’ trendiesl eatery) sits this unpretentious Mexican spot. Pepe’s probably does old-fashioned Tex-Mex as well as any place in Dallas The beef tacos, for instance, come in a light, fresh-tasting shell. Enchiladas are dependable, too. Came asada was made from tender beef, chiles rellenos from authentic poblano peppers (though the filling proved to be unexciting). (3011 Routh. 871-9445. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Sat 10:30 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Mario & Alberto. We were in the mood for a fiesta when we last visited this uptown Mexican restaurant, and it did not disappoint. The nachos and shrimp flautas distracted us from the tostadas and cilantro-laden hot sauce until the main courses arrived. Then we delighted in beef dishes: alambres (Mexican shish kebab), puntas de filete (tiny slivers of beef sauteed with garlic), and filete de la casa (a slice of rare tenderloin topped with herbs and garlic). On the way out. we couldn’t resist a cinnamon-rich praline. (Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ Frwy at Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)
Ricardo’s. This is a Mexican restaurant in the new polished style – the colors are rose and plum, with only a few cacti around to give away the restaurant’s ethnic orientation The menu is conventional but appealing. We enjoyed the beef fajitas (neither overmarinated nor overcharred) and the broiled chicken breast, which had a pleasant flavor and a light melting of cheese on top. A few less frequently seen dishes like carne guisada (beef stewed with potatoes and green pep-pers) also are executed deftly The conventional Tex-Mex plates are better than average (17610 Midway. 931-5073. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 11 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Rosita’s. Every neighborhood ought to have its Rosi-ta’s – but in Dallas you mostly have to go out to Mexican-American neighborhoods to find good, solid TexMex. (Don’t get the wrong idea, Rosita’s; we don’t want you to establish any branches elsewhere. That has been the downfall of too many wonderful Dallas sources of prime enchiladas.) Here you can get good nachos and tacos and even chiles rellenos. The fajitas were cooked to burned-tasting crisps on the sizzling platter on which they arrived, but the delightful sopapilias and flan afterwards made up for them (4906 Maple. 521-4741; 5705 Southwest Green Oaks. Arlington. 572-1009. Mon-Thur 7am-10 pm, Fri 7 am-11 pm, Sat 9 am-11 pm, Sun 9 am-10 pm at Maple location; Mon-Sat 7 am-10 pm, Sun 8 am-3 pm at Arlington location. MC, V,. AE. $)
D REVISITS
Rio Grande Grill. North Greenville Avenue’s unique cross between a Yuppie bar and a Mexican restaurant has new management and a new menu, but much remains the same. You still have (in a Back to the Future scenario) slender people playing backgammon at high tables. And you still have pretty good food with an alarming tendency to be drowned in an excess of gloppy cheese and indiscriminately applied sauces. One might expect appetizers like the Mexican pizza and Rio Grande Dip (layers of beans, guacamole, cheese, peppers, sour cream, olives, and so on) to be soupy messes, but chiles rellenos and basic combination plates should not be so overburdened with toppings. For those who cant stand to order fajitas again, there are alternatives like chicken fingers. (5111 Greenville. 692-9777. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. All credit cards. $)
SEAFOOD
DAtlantic Cafe. The cooking here remained as fine as ever on our last visit, but there were a couple of problems a restaurant this good shouldn’t tolerate. Mussels, beautifully presented in a flavorful broth, were overlarge and strong tasting The halibut steak couldn’t have been more perfectly grilled-it had a crisp surface and meltingly tender flesh – but it smelled faintly of ammonia, signifying to us that it had passed the peak of freshness Other parts of the meal were perfect: shrimp and scallop ceviche, tomato and fresh mozzarella salad, a sauteed combination of shellfish, creme brulee. We never find the waiters exactly warm and friendly here, but they are certainly efficient (4546 McKinney at Knox. 559-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri & Sun 11-2:30. dinner: Sun-Thur: 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Aw Shucks. For many good reasons, this disarming-ly casual shuckery has become one of the most popular Lower Greenville dining spots. Your search for the perfect catfish may end here-and nobody in Dallas fills a basket with fish for a cheaper price. The same cannot be said of the skimpy shrimp and oyster combo, but skip it and “pick up a dozen” – shucksese for a dozen plump oysters on the hall shell. Combine with a big bowl of sure-’nuff gumbo, and welcome to New Orleans West (3601 Greenville. 821-9449; 4535 Maple, 522-4498. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:45 pm, Sun 11 30 am-9 pm at Greenville loca-tion; Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:45, Sun noon-Worn at Maple location. No credit cards $)
Bay Street. This still looks like Charley’s of old -the Ad-dison branch is as big and airy as ever-and the ownership is still the same You can still buy grilled fish here. We ordered a halibut steak off the chalkboard and found it fresh and tasty. But now Bay Street claims to offer Cajun food as well. The Cajun popcorn appetizer – highly seasoned, deepfried crayfish tails-are sensational, truly as hard to stop eating as popcorn. We found Bay Street out of redfish, but they cheerfully blackened some red snapper for us. (5348 Belt Line, Addison. 934-8502 Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
D Café Margaux. Tom Agnew’s latest restaurant remains one of the best bargains in the city-Dallas could use lots more places like this that are unassuming in decor and serve first-rate food. The top dishes here include Cajun popcorn (tiny fried crayfish with a sherry sauce) and exemplary blackened redfish. A nightly special of garlicky redfish soup has also been a knockout The Cajun fried chicken served over dirty rice was mildly disappointing, but the bread pudding with whiskey sauce-dark with apples and raisins-made up for it. So far, Cafe Margaux doesn’t have a liquor license, but it is the only place in Dallas that serves recognizable Louisiana cuisine. (4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 6-10 Reservations for parties of 6 or more MC. V $-$$)
D Café Pacific. Glossy but relaxed, this place epitomizes the often-deceptive Highland Park mystique for us Except for a crisp Caesar salad (blessedly served for one), all our preliminaries were disappointing Our appetizer portion of pasta with salmon suffered from the strong taste of the fish, the tortilla soup was too thick and tomatoey, and the smoked chicken salad-though bounteous with meaty chunks of chicken and perfect walnut halves-didn’t really meld into a unified dish. But the main dishes included a good version of the ubiquitous blackened redfish, and the splendid Seafood Pacific (crab, scallops, and shrimp in a creamy sauce atop puff pastry) proved again one of the richest concoctions in town. Lovely details like a yellow rice that really lasted of saffron, a luxurious dessert of chocolate satin pie, and professional service all restored our faith in the virtues of Cafe Pacific. (Highland Park Village. Preston at Mocking-bird.Suite24 526-1170 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30, Sun 10:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5.30-11. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Devon Seafood Grill. This is another out-of-state seafood chain trying to form a bridgehead in Texas -maybe the Bennigan’s of the sea (if only the corporate headquarters weren’t in Kansas City). The food is so wildly unpredictable that it is hard to recommend the place. Appetizers, from our experience, may be the best bet. In addition to oysters on the half shell, there are super Cajun frog legs fined and accompanied by a spicy sauce), frizzled scallops, and even a better-than-usual shrimp cocktail tor those who don’t want to fool with peeling their own Devon does know how to broil seafood, and there are enough unusual choices like wolffish to encourage exploration. But the shellfish cioppino, which had plenty of firm-textured fish and scallops and mussels, had a most unpleasant taste of unreduced wine in the broth. (14866 Montfort Drive. 991-0533 Lunch: Mon-Thur 11:30-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 5:30-10, Sun brunch. 10.30-3. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Joe’s Seafood. There are no tables at this serve-yourself oyster bar, just counters and stools, but the lack of amenities doesn’t hurt the taste of the seafood. The whole catfish is served with the fillets miraculously peeled away from the bone, the shrimp are succu-lent, and the oysters are sweet and tender. The french fries are satisfying if you don’t mind a little grease (we don’t in this case), the cole slaw is serious, garlicky stuff, and the hush puppies are the real thing (we had to go back and order more) The gumbo is better than average, and there are boiled shrimp and oysters on the half shell. (4324 Ash Lane (eastbound service road of 1-30, Peak/Carroll exit), 823-3681. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-midnight. MC, V, AE. $)
Jozef’s. On our last visit to this cozy little restaurant on McKinney, we enjoyed a truly relaxing meal – a courtly, but not hovering waiter and a laid-back, almost seaside-like atmosphere close to downtown Dallas. Our appetizers, stuffed mushrooms and shrimp bisque, were delicious The shrimp du chef, shrimp in a cream sauce, was light yet satisfying, and the scallops in yet another cream sauce were fresh and very good, but a little too dense. The praline parfait (skimpy on the praline sauce) and chocolate mousse cake (soggy) didn’t really measure up to the rest of the meal (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
L&N Seafood Grill. You might not expect a seafood restaurant named after the landlocked cities of Louisville and Nashville to have much going for it, but this outpost of a chain based in the Southeast, which overlooks the central courtyard of NarthPark mall, fills a valuable niche in Dallas-somewhere between the simplicities of an S&D Oyster Company and the expense of a Cafe Pacific. It fries well as both the bountiful appetizer of fried calamari (served with a racy fresh tomato sauce) and the main course of mixed tried seafood attested There are fairly elaborate dishes like the seafood strudel appetizer (a triangle of phyllo pastry encasing a richly sauced portion of shrimp and scallops) and pasta Nicoise (firmly cooked Iinguine with large shrimp seasoned with lots of garlic and other Mediterranean goodies). There is also a large selection of grilled fish-we found both yellowtail and grouper good but not outstanding. (701 NorthPark Center. 363-4722. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 11 am-10 pm; Sun brunch 11-3. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Newport’s. A recent excursion to this hard-to-find spot in a corner of the West End Historical District showed it still to be a pleasant place to dine, if without the excitement of its early days. The ceviche appetizer overflowed with more shrimp and scallops than we could handle comfortably, and the marinated octopus, though very chewy and heavy in its oily sauce, had plenty of flavor Fresh crab and shrimp adorned a creamily dressed salad to fine effect The main disappointments were in the main courses Grilled tuna suffered from too smoky a taste and too dry a texture-not helped much by the accompanying beurre blanc and bearnaise sauces (the latter spoiled by too strong a flavor of tarragon) We can’t remember eating blue marlin before, and this sauteed version didn’t recommend it to us for the future-the breading was soggy and the fish un-derseasoned. The best chocolate mousse in town – strongly flavored with rum – ended the meal on a high note. (703 McKinney in the Brewery. 954-0220. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Oysters. This seafood place is cloning itself so fast we wondered if the food or service might be suffering. But, at the original location on Belt Line in Addison at least, we found things better than ever. The seafood gumbo had a rich, smoky flavor, and the shrimp remoulade (though the sauce lacked a real Creole bite) was tasty. A platter of tried seafood had sweet oysters and crunchy shrimp and scallops, and this time even the cole slaw and the french fries were a plus. As a special of the day. we even tried the ubiquitous blackened fish – in this case, snapper rather than redfish. It was furiously peppery and meltingly tender. (4580 Belt Line, 386-0122; 2901 N Central Expwy at Parker, 422-2469 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Ratcliffe’s. This spiffy seafood place has a new chef named Richard Chamberlain (he does come from California, although he’s not the former Dr. Kildare, and he worked with Dean Fearing at Agnew’s before his stint on the coast). So tar the menu hasn’t gone overboard with New Southwestern touches, though the specials of the day, such as striped sea bass with mushrooms and beurre blanc, seem to surpass the dishes still on the old menu (like fresh lobster in a far too sweet Americaine sauce). We did like some of the nouvelle-ish touches- a thick raspberry vinaigrette on an avocado and artichoke salad and the delightful side dish of grilled vegetables. Though Ratcliffe’s can be excellent, be warned-it can easily vie in steepness of price with all but the city’s most flamboyant French restaurants. (1901 McKinney. 871-2900. Lunch Man-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards $$$)
Rusty Pelican. This first Dallas outpost of a California-based chain of quality seafood restaurants seems to have weathered the storm of the transition from the first days (when out-of-city help kept things running smoothly) to the takeover by the local staff (when service was shaky at first). Now things are on an even keel, and you may wait half an hour if you pop in without a reservation. The specialty here is exotic fish, either charbroiled or sauteed. We found that ahi, a Hawaiian fish, took well to the grill – served pink in the center, it really did remind us of a juicy, thick veal chop. The mahi mahi had a grainier texture and just seemed dull, with only tartar sauce to add variety. Plain old Guff snapper, sauteed nicely enough, seemed drab next to the fancy imports. (14655 Dallas Pkwy, Addison. 980-8950. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri 5-midnight, Sat 4:30-midnigbt, Sun 4:30-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Shucker’s. When this outpost of an Addison seafood restaurant first opened some months ago. we were unimpressed. But a new staff has transformed it into one of the better mid-priced seafood houses in town Fried things (the specialty of the Addison location) are still good, but the fancier dishes like the combination hot hors d’oeuvres (with two kinds of baked oysters, calamari, and sauteed prawns) can be even better Nightly specials include unusual fish-like silver salmon in rich, buttery sauces Desserts are definitely one of the attractions here, especially the unlikely sounding -but fabulous – chocolate bread pudding. (4620 McKinney. 522-7320. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 5 pm-10 pm. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Turtle Cove. We have experienced wide swings of response to the food at Turtle Cove, and don’t believe it’s because we’re moody On our last visit, several shrimp dishes smelled slightly of ammonia We found both shrimp and vegetables cooked over mesquite wood far too smoky tasting – this isn’t always the case here, so perhaps it has to do with how recently the grills were cleaned. Our best choice was a broiled swordfish steak, but the pleasure we took in it (and in wine from the remarkable all-Amencan wine list) wasn’t enough to compensate for our other disappointments. (2731 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9034 Mon-Thur 11 am-W10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
La Pagode. This handsome, homey little place is our favorite for Vietnamese food in Dallas. The Imperial rolls and the Vietnamese-style crepe (really a paper-thin omelette stuffed with sprouts and shrimp) are both wonderful ways to start a meal here. The hot pot – a rich broth brimming with morsels of meal, seafood, and vegetables-is a good choice for a main dish for a small crowd. The charbroiled beef strips come with let-luce leaves and fresh herbs for making Southeast Asian tacos. But we have mixed feelings about the frog legs in French butter-the jumbo-sized gams need more browned garlic (4302 Bryan. 821-4542. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10pm. MC, V, DC, CB. $-$$)
Stem Orchid. While the food may not live up to the memories of that served by the Siam (the restaurant that formerly occupied this space), the Siam, Orchid is still perhaps the best Thai restaurant in town. On our most recent visit, the spring rolls were wonderfully crunchy and tasty, and both soups (chicken with rice and shrimp in a hot-and-sour broth flavored with lem-ongrass) were enormously satisfying. Crunchy fish fillets swam in a red curry sauce decorated with fresh hot peppers. On the down side, the pork satay was dry and the charcoal-grilled beef in the salad with fresh mint lacked flavor But since most of the food is ex-cellent and the service kind and helpful, we think it is worth braving the sleazy neighborhood for a meal here. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-6505. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 5-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Slam Rose. It would be nice to report that the food at Siam Rose is as much a step up tor Thai restaurants in Dallas as the ambience is, but sadly, the cooking is only about average There are some interesting novelties the pieces of chicken cooked in cornhusks are a kind of masa-less Thai tamale, and the duck in a red wine sauce is a subtle mixture of slightly sweet and salty tastes. We liked the chicken satay and beef salad among the appetizers, the shrimp cooked with lots of garlic and black pepper, and the perennial Siamese favorite pud Thai (noodles in a tangy sauce with shrimp and ground peanuts). But a number of standard Thai dishes can be under par here, like the spring rolls and the fishy-tasting deep-fried softshell crabs. (5290 Belt Line, Suite 142. 991-9881. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3, dinner daily 5-11. MC. V, AE. $$)
Thai Lanna. We have not been among those impressed by the original Bryan Street location of this Thai restaurant. But the new place on Spring Valley Road in Richardson has some of the best Asian food in town, and in cozy surroundings. For examples of what Thai Lanna does best, try the stuffed chicken wings or the beef panang. The chicken coconut soup-a rich and mysterious blend of the named ingredients plus lots of fresh herbs -is one of our favorite dishes anywhere. The menu here is unusually varied and rewards exploration. (1490 W Spring Valley. Richardson. 690-3637. 690-3642 Lunch: daily 11 am-3 pm; dinner: daily 5-10 pm. MC, V. $-$$)
SOUTHERN
Bubba’s. We continue to come here for the crisp, juicy fried chicken and the sweetish, yeasty rolls (dripping with honey, if you like) But the rest of Bubba’s food is problematical. The selection of vegetables is commendable, but the greens, green beans, and pinto beans are all cooked (authentically) with salt pork, and all come out saltier than any sailor’s language And the mashed potatoes taste like cardboard Neither the catfish nor the chicken-fried steak can be recommended, either. Still, Bubba’s is prettier than Church’s and offers unbeatable opportunities for preppy-watching. (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Mon-Fri 6:30 am-3 pm & 4-10 pm, Sat & Sun 6 30 am-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Celebration. What’s to celebrate? Plenty Thick, zes-ty slabs of meat loaf, succulent baked chicken, and other Southern staples, supported by crunchy salads and a rotating cast of home-style vegetables. Best of all, it’s an all-you-can-eat affair at surprisingly modest prices. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. All credit cards. $$)
Dick’s Last Resort. You can have more fun in this bar-restaurant than just about anyplace else in the West End historical district There’s sawdust on the floor, New Orleans-style bands, singers and other musicians performing on stage, and a general air of camaraderie all over. For a place that is basically a bar, Dick’s Last Resort serves amazingly good food The beef ribs are huge and meaty, a bit sweet. The spit-turned barbecue chicken is sensational, and the catfish is even belter -crunchy and juicy. (Ross at Record. 747-0001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30; dinner Mon-Wed 5:30-10:30, Thur & Sun 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. We don’t know why me Dallas Parkway branch of this venerable local institution can’t quite keep up the standards of the original place. Perhaps the demand isn’t there – we notice you can seldom get the signature spinach salad with horseradish at the far North Dallas location And fried chicken, usually definitive on Knox, is often soggy and tasteless uptown But even at the lesser branch, you can come away feeling coddled by Southern hospitality. We love to make a meal of such regional delights as chicken and dumplings, collard greens, yams with marshmallows, and lemon pie. The German chocolate cake is also worth the calories. (4611 Cole, 526-3801; Sakowitz Village, 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600, 934-8800. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-2 pm & 5:30-8 pm at Cole location; Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm,. Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Sakowitz Village location. No credit cards; MC, V, AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $10.$)
Southern Kitchen. The crowds at these two venerable Dallas institutions at either end of Northwest Highway reflect the American love of plenly. All the shrimp, crab meat, and oysters you can eat {and that’s just for appetizers!) is a powerful draw. It matters little that the supposed main course (fried and barbecued chicken, fried seafood and trimmings, again in unlimited quantities) is just a bit better than good cafeteria level. If you prefer-and you might-you can order a steak or broiled swordfish instead. The homemade biscuits and cinnamon rolls and the very hard-working service are also major attractions here. (6615 E Northwest Hwy. 368-1658; 2356 W Northwest Hwy, 352-5220. Mon-Sat 5:30-10 pm. Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Baskets Eatery. This mecca for informal diners hasn’t been around long, but it’s already opening several branches You order at a counter, and your meal comes in-what else?-a basket, but there’s a wider choice than at similar places where you can only get burgers. Here there are shish kebabs and fried chicken as well The chicken we found less greasy than at fast-food emporia, but the speed with which it was served, and the lack of |ust-fried, finger-burning freshness, suggested it had been cooked a while in advance. Our hamburger came with excellent homemade chili on top. Baskets also has an ice cream bar for those who have room for dessert. (4343 W Northwest Highway, 351-2575; 1603 LBJ Freeway, 484-3681 Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11 at Northwest Highway location: Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm at LBJ location. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Del Frisco’s Steak House. This is a branch of a New Orleans place that serves USDA Prime steaks drizzled with a butter sauce. Del Frisco’s also serves a number o1 other New Orleans specialties, like a light, crusty French bread fresh from the oven, turtle soup, shrimp remoulade, and bread pudding The steaks were obviously of the quality advertised and they were cooked to order, but both were seared a bit loo hard on the outside, producing a slightly unpleasant taste and texture, and one was a bit overaged. The broiled Australian lobster tail, though probably imported frozen, was huge and had a flavor and texture superior to many whole American lobsters that cost far more. Desserts include a very good bread pudding with a Johnny Walker sauce (4300 Lemon. 526-2101. Daily 5 pm-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Hoffbrau. It’s tough enough to find a good steak these days, much less one for under ten bucks. This restaurant, chock full of things Texana, is living proof that not everyone these days is turning to chicken and fish. No wonder. The specialty here is definitely meat, and judging by the crowds at both lunch and dinner. Hoffbrau’s tasty steaks are no secret. All dinners here include a large salad (with a house dressing), a plate of bread and crackers, and pan-fried chunky potato slices Waitresses clad in T-shirts and blue |eans set an informal atmosphere. Good food, good service, and good luck finding a parking place. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Jimanny’s. We’re not sure why they kept the old name-this is essentially a new restaurant, with fresh owners, management, and menu Though you can still get steak here, this is essentially a European brasserie these days (the new proprietors are Belgian), So the steaks come topped with well-prepared sauces like one of cream and pepper and another of mushrooms and brandy. Or the sauces can top the delicious spit-roasted chickens one sees turning on rotisseries. The ideal accompaniment tor both is an order of crunchy fried shoestring potatoes (those craving American baked potatoes will be discouraged). Prices for the basics ace quite reasonable, but be advised, the fancier sauces tote steeper price tags. (2109 W Parker, Plano. 985-1339. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 5-midmght. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $-$$)
D REVISITS
Kirby’s. We love the Fifties atmosphere here (a survivor from the actual period, not a crass reconstruction). We love the motherly waitresses who treat their many geriatric and pediatric clients with equal mixtures of TLC and bossiness. What we did not love on our last visit were the steaks. We could have sworn that the odd taste of our sinewy ribeye was a result of chemical tenderizing – we hope that this cow didn’t start out tasting that way – and the thin slice of T-bone wasn’t much better Since meat is the only food that would bring you to Kirby’s (the salad is chopped iceberg, the potatoes foil-wrapped, the desserts mostly out of a freezer), that leaves little to recommend the place, unless you are writing a dissertation on the history of Dallas. (3715 Greenville. 823-7296 Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
The Palm. The floors are littered with sawdust, and the decorations consist mainly of doodled caricatures of the famous (and not so famous) So what makes this the playground of the biggest spenders around? The old-pro waiters give the place a certain air, and the food is certainly the sort high rollers go for. Steaks are the number one item – our tenderloin was as delicious as it was pricey. Lobsters are another specialty, and luckily this time we found one weighing in at only three and a half pounds. The accompanying potatoes of various kinds are usually tempting {though on one recent occasion we found the wafer-thin fried slices unpleasantly bitter-tasting). Appetizers and desserts are mostly not worth the additional (hefty) expense. At lunch there is a much more reasonably priced menu, but do you really go to the Palm to eat shrimp salad or sleak tartare? (701 Ross 698-0470. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)
D Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Don’t be alarmed that Dallas’ premier steakhouse is part of a small New Orleans-based franchise chain – group buying is the only way to be sure of getting beef this good out of the distributors And good it is. The rib-eye is our favorite -though !he indulgence in so much rich, fatty beef may raise our cholesterol levels for a week But that’s the difference between prime and choice beef – the fatty marbling that gives the best beef its incomparable flavor. The soft ball-size tenderloins are a bit less flavorful but very tender. The expense account eaters who come here seem to be mostly meat-and-potatoes people-which is fine, since potatoes are the only side dishes that match the quali-ty of the beef. You can have them fried four different ways, baked, au gratin, lyonnaise, etc. (6940 Green ville. 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30, Sat & Sun 5-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Café Acapulco. Southwest Arlington is booming and so are the local amenities Even the local eateries smack of the burgeoning affluent environment, which sets the stage lor Cafe Acapulco, a Mexican cafe done in smart white stucco arches and cool tiles The margaritas are potent – always a good sign. And the fa-jitas, recommended by many as the best in Arlington, are smothered in grilled onions, another good sign. We found both the beef and chicken fajitas worthy of the recognition (4001 Green Oaks Blvd, Arlington. (817) 572-4471. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
The Café. The prospect of enjoying home cooking at a restaurant held relatively little appeal since we could, theoretically, stay home and enjoy similar fare. That’s what we thought before we ate at The Café Mom never thought about cooking like this: stuffed jalapenos, smothered steak with mushrooms, and chicken-fried rib-eye – all to the beat of Motown’s best. This Arlington spot is riding the crest of Fifties nostalgia with flashing neon and lots of chrome, but a second look at the impressive menu and beer list (more than 100 brands) will tell you that The Cafe is firmly entrenched in the Eighties. (715-A Ryan Plaza, Arlington. (817) 261-1000. Mon-Tbur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight, Sun 11-10. All credit cards. $$)
Café Cipriani. A brass-and-glass elevator sets the tony mood, but the food sometimes is a letdown. The mixed seafood appetizer (including tiny squid), the shrimp provencale, and the earthy risotto with wild mushrooms were fine, but the crab cannelloni were bland and the fresh lobster came served over a shockingly green (and not very appetizing) spinach sauce. The veal fiorentino suffered from the same treatment, and the salmon was a tad fishy. The raspberry souffle was light and refreshing, but the German chocolate cake should have been sent back to the old country. (220 E Las Col-inas Blvd, Irving. 869-0713. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner:. Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun All credit cards $$$)
China Terrace. With its rosewood antiques and its wonderful assortment of fine Oriental ornaments. China Terrace creates the perfect atmosphere to enjoy fine Chinese dining And from the egg rolls to the fortune cookies, that’s exactly what we did in this Mid-Cities restaurant. The foil-wrapped barbecue ribs found on the hot hors d’oeuvres platter only whetted our appetites for what was to follow. We savored the beet with broccoli and indulged in prawns so artfully arranged on our plates that it seemed a shame to devour everything so quickly Our waiter never let our teacups run dry or our supply of rice dwindle. (5435 N MacArthur, Irving. 258-1113. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 11 am-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
D Enjolie. Although we have recently suffered from underdone lobster and unimaginative sauces, there are still enough delightful louches like the tart grapefruit sorbet, the selection of French cheeses, and the chocolate truffles to make a visit to Enjolie extremely rewarding. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel. 221 E Las Colinas Blvd, Irving, 556-0800, ext. 3511. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
Flying Lobster. Grapevine is undergoing a major facelift these days, and the Flying Lobster, with its fresh entrees and dockside decor, is among the community’s newest and best offerings Although this might be catfish territory to some, there’s nary a fried fish sizzling on the stove. The lobster is flown in daily from Maine; the crab comes from the Gulf. The entrees lack imagination, but freshness makes up for creativity. The cook took the chore out of eating lobster by removing all but the most tender chunks of meat, and the creamy sauce that covered the meat added just enough flavor to enhance an already delightful meal. We had to work a bit harder to get through the seafood platter, which featured everything from frog’s legs to swordfish. The sampling of steamed clams, shrimp, and lobster made an interesting mix, but after the first few bites, everything tasted the same. (1321 W Northwest Hwy, Grapevine 481-4135 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun & Mon. MC, V, AE, personal checks accepted. $$)
Hunan Dynasty. We were most pleasantly impressed by the look of this second-story restaurant (overlooking only Highway 183, sadly), with its tasteful colors and appointments and unusual wooden furniture. There is some talent in the kitchen, too. The shrimp toast we sampled had a tingly flavor of fresh ginger, and the fried dumplings (with a tasty filling and slightly crunchy skin) came with a garlicky sauce for dipping. The main courses demonstrated that Hunan Dynasty can execute the new standard Chinese menu with flair. The “gourmet specialties” are really mixtures of ingredients or platters presenting several different dishes from the regular menu, but it was fun to try the Jewels of Hunan, which gave us a chance to sample kung po chicken, Hunan beef, and the braised shrimp in Hunan sauce. (1111 W Airport Frwy at MacArthur, Suite 201, Irving. 252-0126. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
La Deli. An honest-to-goodness Lebanese restaurant in the middle of 1he old Hackberry ranch? Well, the proprietors think so And so do we. except that the menu has been more or less Americanized You can begin and end your meal with the Generous Tray alone eighteen (count em) dishes of assorted salads and appetizers, from rolled and stuffed grape leaves to fresh yogurt. This is a very enticing – and filling – beginning. Our favorite is the crushed eggplant in which you dip steamy pita bread. But be sure to leave some room for an entree The combination dinner is a good choice because you can sample some of Lebanon’s most famous (and sometimes unpronounceable) dishes: kib-bi, falafel, and shish kebab. (5433 N. MacArthur. 258-1163 Lunch: Mon-Sat 10-3; dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Piccolo Mondo. We were pleasantly surprised to find gnocchi on the evenings menu at this neighborhood Italian restaurant in Arlington. (Although it’s located in a strip shopping center off congested Collins-FM 157-it has the feel of a quiet neighborhood place.) Gnocchi are light potato dumplings in a creamy sauce that are truly a delicious appetizer Sated, we followed that great beginning with fettuccine alla putanesca and veal scaloppine Virginia. The fettuccine was unusual in its light, tomatoey sauce, but the light and creamy veal was predictable. (829 East Lamar. (817) 265-9174. Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur: 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)
Samurai. It’s surprising how a belt of sake will improve your outlook on life – and raw fish. Dunked in the mixture of soy sauce and hot mustard, sashirm can be one of the best taste sensations found anywhere All here, with the mild exception of the Yellowfin, fulfilled our expectations. The large portion of salmon was a little more done than we prefer but the creamy sauce restored the dish’s vitality The array of tempura vegetables, on the other hand, was somewhat lackluster and bland. And the marinated beef was plentiful, but tasted as if it had marinated perhaps a bit too long. But another bell of sake put everything right. (2305 West Park Row, Arlington. (817) 860-2871 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Via Real. Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists. The contents of the menu are as fresh as the look of the place-you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence The appetizers include such novelties as crepa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crepes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (long cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce). Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end, with skewered scallops and swordfish among the specialties We found the scallop kebabs dominated too strongly by the taste of the bacon that enwrapped it, but the swordfish was firm-fleshed and tasty. (Towne North Centre, 3591 N Belt Line at Northgate. Irving 255-0064. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-10:30; dinner: Sun 5-10:30 MC, V, AE. $$)
The Verona. This Lincoln Square establishment is on its way to becoming a major contender in the Arlington restaurant scene. We started our meal with fresh mussels steamed in a white wine broth with herbs and garlic. We decided to continue in the seafood vein with linguine pescatore (linguine pasta with shrimp, scallops, mussels, and crabclaws in a white wine sauce), which proved to be a light but substantial entree, The scaloppine alla Toscana was heavier but delicious with mushrooms, ham, artichokes, and capers in a light cream sauce, (226 Lincoln Square Shopping Center, Arlington. (817) 861-9492 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$)
FORT WORTH
Angelo’a. How much of Angelo’s reputation is warranted and how much mere mystique? We found the sliced barbecue and the chopped beef sandwich both lacking in smoky flavor (though tender and lean enough) on our most recent excursion. The extras here have never been worth hooting about, so that didn’t leave, much besides the cold beer and the folksy sawdust on the floor to make our visit memorable. (2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Autumn Moon. This East Side establishment tries a little bit too hard to be a great restaurant when it should be content that it’s a very good one With not much ethnic competition on the East Side. Autumn Moon has a pretty clear field, so it’s hard to understand why, on a recent visit, we were serenaded with the sounds of a live electric guitar player throughout our dinner of crispy soup, spicy chicken, and “two taste delicious,” a daring mix of spicy shrimp and pork. Our meal was, as usual, prompt and satisfying, but as far as we could tell, the music was more akin to Muzak than ballads of the Far East. (5516 Brentwood Stair. (817) 496-6633. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Aventino’s. This small West Side Italian inn is becoming a consistent winner with us. On our last visit, we had some of the best tortellini in Fort Worth-perhaps the entire Metroplex. Creamy, with just the right amount of seasoning and fresh garden peas, the pasta-wrapped bites of veal and beef were delissima. Perhaps we wera so impressed with the tortellini Aventino that our accompanying entree of sauteed veal paled by comparison (it was bland and had too much breading) But everything else shone the melted-cheese appetizer (to dunk piping-hot bread in) was gooey and rich, and the the live classical guitar music was a perfect backdrop for our dessert of espresso and coconut fIan. And although the diminutive restaurant is enjoying a big business, you can still get a table on weekends without a reservation. (3206 Winthrop Ave. (817) 731-0711. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
The Balcony of Ridglea. Overlooking the streaming lights of Camp Bowie is even more pleasurable while you sip a glass of crisp, cold white wine and savor the piquant taste of tender Norwegian salmon, steamed and sauced with a light hollandaise. A recent visit to this West Side vanguard yielded both – in ample and satisfying portions. In addition to the redfish, we also sampled a house specialty, double-cut lamb chops, and found them moist and tender, perfectly cooked to order. We would have stopped there, but our waiter pleasantly surprised us with a sudden availability of a Grand Marnier souffle of which we eagerly took advantage. It was delicate-albeit loaded with the sweet liqueur-and could have stood alone sans the dollop of whipped cream, which only added to its richness, (6100 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-3719. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closea Sun. All major credit cards. $$$)
The Carriage House. Leisurely service is the byword here. Nothing is rushed, and given the ambition of the new menu, you need the time to carefully peruse the bountiful offerings of steak, seafood, and veal. We could have made an entire meal of the fresh, perfectly seasoned pate maison. Our grilled swordfish was taken from the flames not a moment loo soon, but the large tenderloin suffered under a suffocating blanket of peppercorns Despite competition, the Old Guard Carriage House remains one of the most popular places in Fort Worth-and by our observations, it is aging as gracefully as its clientele. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. All credit cards. $$$)
City Park Cafe. When was the last time you went to a restaurant and found the food even better than you remembered and the prices lower? If it’s been as long for you as it has been for us, then you haven’t stopped by the City Park Cafe, that quaint little restaurant in the TCU district, lately We’re making a resolution not to let so much time slip by from now on. We tried a tender veal marsala in a brown sauce that was different from what we had expected but nonetheless a great choice and a plate of seafood fettuccine that was as good as we’ve had in more expensive places. City Park Cafe is a jewel of a neighborhood restaurant. (2418 Forest Park Blvd. (817) 921 -4567. Lunch: daily 11-3; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-9; Sun brunch: 11 -3. MC, V, AE; personal checks accepted. $$)
D Escape. Closing shop after a successful run at the Fort Worth dining scene because of neighborhood zoning problems, Escape owners remained undaunted and moved-a hundred feet away into a new office building (that the owners built) The same fixed-price menu (twenty-five dollars) is served as before, but several offerings are now offered a la carte for those who are intimidated by seven courses. Fortunately, we were not dainty eaters and welcomed each and every course. (Not only did we find the fixed-price menu more economical, it allowed us to sample selections from the entire menu ) We were delighted to find that the chef had not lost his touch. From the beginning shrimp appetizer, through the heavenly lobster bisque and house salad, to the delicious veal Oscar and closing cheesecake, our appetites were amply satisfied. (3417 E Wellington. (817) 738-9704. Sun-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
D Hedary’s. Some things at Hedary’s were better than ever on our last visit, including the service by the members of the Lebanese-American family that owns the place The assortment of ap-petizers was nothing short of spectacular, with definitive eggplant and chickpea dips, falafel, vegetables, and salads, And the baklava and other desserts were light, delicate, and delicious. We confess to some disappointment with our main dishes, though Our skewered lamb was tough, and our frarej (chicken broiled in olive oil) didn’t taste as boldly of garlic as we remembered. (3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817) 731-6961. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Thur & Sun 5-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Closed Mon. No reservations- All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
J & J’s Oyster Bar. A restaurant usually becomes an institution because it never fails to please. J & J’s is a classic case There’s not much to add to always-fresh succulent oysters on the half shell, golden-tried jumbo shrimp, and cold, cold draft beer to wash it all down perfectly. The diner-like atmosphere is full of three-piece suits and TCU but-tondowns bellying up to the bar next to construction hard hats, all savoring the warm smell of the deep-fry. This is not an elegant evening on the town – just a satisfying one. (929 University. (817) 335-2756. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-mid-night, Sun 3-9 pm. MC, V, AE. $)
Joe T. Garcia’s. The fame of Joe T.’s can get in the way of enjoyment when tourist buses pile up outside, but if you can go at an off hour a Iot of old magic is still there. There is less bustle, and the mostly gringo waiters are more solicitous. The food is pretty consistent. In case you haven’t heard, the standard Mexican dinner is the big specialty here, and it’s almost the only thing Joe T.’s serves. It consists of round cheese nachos with a sprinkling of chopped |alapenos, a couple of cheese enchiladas with a purist’s cumin-flavored sauce, and a couple of tacos made the old-fashioned way, with meat fried right in the crimped-together shell. On the side, thick retried beans, a lovely guacamole, and fluffy Mexican rice are served family style. Far holdouts against tradition, a version of fajitas called bittec is a worthy (and the only) alternative (2201 N Com merce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 11-11, Sun 1-10 pm. No credit cards. $$)
La Palma. No ritzy ferns No cute little fried appetizer things And no frosty margaritas – they don’t even have a hard-liquor license But, jumpin’ jehosaphat, you don’t need those frills when you’ve got the best fajitas in town. That’s an honor we don’t bestow lightly. We’ve long been on the trail of the best fajitas in Fort Worth, and this restaurant eluded us for quite some time. It’s located on far north Main. (If you think you’ve gone far enough, you haven’t. And don’t let the bright red windowless exterior daunt you. This is the right place. ) And now that we know where it is, it’ll be a permanent stop on our cir-cuit. (3810 Main. (817) 626-0292. Mon 11 am-2 pm, Tue-Sat 11 am-9 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. $)
La Poele d’or. This restaurant, in its storefront location, is very small, with crowded tables, slow service, and decor that’s nondescript at best. But the food is still worthy of consideration, even though the appetizers are unexciting and the salads are simple We tred sauteed fillets of orange roughy, a fish from New Zealand, and found them delicate, and the specialty of the house (called shrimp Vance) is divine – lightly battered and crunchy crustaceans in a buttery sauce. The veal normande was heavy but tasty, and the chicken aux champignons was satisfying,too (5718 Locke. (817) 738-6670. Mon-Thur 6:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6.30-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
D Michel. Things have changed at this toniest of Fort Worth French restaurants. Now there is a printed menu, from which you can order a la carte And Michel also offers a nightly menu de degus-tation, with five sizable courses, including dessert (not bulked out with mere green salad and sorbet] When we visited, the menu de degustation included some surprisingly adventurous items, starting with a veal pate and then a seafood mousse. Fillet of sole was lopped with a strong-tasting, oversalted melange of diced potatoes and capers. That was followed by a breast of pheasant in a winey sauce. Worn the a la carte menu, we sampled a racy salad with chicken livers and a rack of lamb, magnificently crusty on the outside and pink and juicy inside. Despite a few flaws, the new scheme of things seems to have put some new life into the cooking, and the service, too, seemed newly attentive and helpful. (3851 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-1231. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AS $$$$)
River House. The trick is to arrive early enough on a weekend night to be seated right away. That way, you’ll have the entire selection of specials to choose from. You’ll be sorry if you miss out on the King Salmon. On a recent visit, this special vanished at 730 p.m., but our order was taken in the nick of time. We also tried the house scampi-twice. The first order the waitress brought us resembled curled-up snails in a brown sauce, but before we could even venture a bite, she returned to snatch the plate away, saying that this order would never do. She returned just moments later with some of the plumpest crustaceans we’ve seen in a long time Lying on a puffy bed of pilaf, the shrimp made a big hit at our table. (1660 S University. (817) 336-0815. Lunch Mon-Fri 11 -2; dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10 Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC $$$)
Rodolfo’s. Have you ever had a hankering for pasta-and you wanted it right now? On the way to the movies recently, we were faced with such a dilemma Entertainment or sustenance? Crisis averted. We found Rodolfo’s. Within minutes of being seated, we found ourselves in front of steaming tortellini and linguine in clam sauce. Somehow it seemed like destiny to be silting in an Italian restaurant in Fort Worth being waited on by a French waitress who assured us that our order would be served “rapide.” The tortellini was part of a pasta sampler plate that also included manicotti and ravioli, all in a cream sauce. The linguine, basking in a highly seasoned red sauce, was like a magnet for the heavily dosed garlic bread. Indulging ourselves, we almost forgot the show. (6103 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-3801. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $)
Related Articles
Home & Garden
A Look Into the Life of Bowie House’s Jo Ellard
Bowie House owner Jo Ellard has amassed an impressive assemblage of accolades and occupations. Her latest endeavor showcases another prized collection: her art.
Dallas History
D Magazine’s 50 Greatest Stories: Cullen Davis Finds God as the ‘Evangelical New Right’ Rises
The richest man to be tried for murder falls in with a new clique of ambitious Tarrant County evangelicals.
Home & Garden
The One Thing Bryan Yates Would Save in a Fire
We asked Bryan Yates of Yates Desygn: Aside from people and pictures, what’s the one thing you’d save in a fire?