The West End Oasis. This new restaurant in a historical building at the corner of Pacific and Market demonstrates proprietor Richard Chase’s ambition to create a world-class establishment. In the look of the restaurant, he has certainly succeeded, after a very long building process that included shoring up the structure of half of the restaurant and months of work by eight collaborator artists and artisans. The entry from Pacific Street is drama itself. One goes down some steps from the street level, catching a glimpse of kitchen work from a window overhead. The waterfall outside is no mere decorative fountain but a torrent one can hear any time the door is opened. Attention to detail includes handpainted ceramic service plates and handsome paintings created especially for the space.
The food at The West End Oasis, cooked under chef Lionel Gamier (formerly at the Hyatt Regency here), is less unequivocally world class as of yet, though it can be very good indeed. The seasonal menu advertises itself as offering “cuisine de soleil ’^-cooking of the sun-which in practice seems to mean the same sort of attention to regional ingredients (pecans, peppers of various sorts, catfish) and the same sort of classical French-based techniques that mark the New Southwestern Cuisine without its dubious excesses, One fresh principle here is a concentration on lightness and wholesomeness, and vegetarian entrées are always available.
Thus the dishes at The West End Oasis tend not to rely heavily on sauces but on natural flavors of the principal foodstuffs. But it is hard to make something truly memorable-world class, if you will-if it is as simple as some of the dishes here. The grilled lamb chops topped with goat cheese and fresh thyme, for instance, do not quite come off, though the grilled swordfish steak with mezcal and tequila lime butters does- the one entrée we have sampled here so far that justifies the pretensions implicit in the setting. A more complex dish like the pheasant roasted with pecan, wild mushroom and blueberry dressing simply didn’t meld (and the pheasant breast was slightly overcooked and thus dry); the seafood linguine was tasty but slightly gummy.
Our appetizers and salads, in fact, came off better. The fish soup with jalapeno, sweet potato and coconut milk proved the most exciting single dish here so far (with a racy, complicated flavor compromised a bit by die tough texture of a few bits of fish, which might have been cooked too long). The oysters and clams sautéed in wine and garlic butter, then returned to their shells and served in a bed of seaweed tasted splendid. The curried crab meat and celery root salad looked as good as it tasted, with its fan of papaya and avocado slices. The Pasta Oasis (linguine with sun-dried tomatoes, capers and chilis) lacked a certain degree of flavor because the tomatoes were served as a garnish in large pieces, and the goose breast salad disappointed because of the chewy texture of the slices of fowl. On the whole, we would have to classify the Oasis in the first weeks of its existence as extremely promising rather than as sensational, but the potential is certainly there to fulfill its ambitions. The service, also, had not quite jelled when we were there, but the computer-produced wine list was especially interesting. (302 N Market, entrance on Pacific. 698-9775. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11: 30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 5: 30-11. AU credit cards. $$$$)
Ruggeri’s. In the location that the ill-fated restaurants Mexico and Palermo formerly occupied, Ruggeri’s has a new, much more formal look (there is valet parking, to give you a clue to the tone here)-and, what’s more important, much better cooking. We were impressed with a number of the appetizers. The cioppino was as good as any we have tasted, with a rich (but not too aggressive) tomato broth in which shrimp, scallops, mussels and other shellfish swam. The scampi livornese had plenty of garlic and a nice texture, and the calamari fritti came to the table crisp and hot. One of the most unusual selections was lumache e lumaconi-pasta stuffed with sautéed snails, ricotta cheese and garlic-and we found the combination as delicious as it was intriguing. One appetizing-sounding item on the menu, smoked trout with pesto vinaigrette, was unavailable when we ordered it.
Pasta can be ordered either as a main course here or as a side order. We tried the larger portions and discovered that they were sizable indeed. The fettuccine pescatore proved to be the saddest disappointment- the shellfish were fresh enough, and the sauce had flavor, but the pasta did not seem to be homemade and was not cooked sufficiently al dente for our tastes. The lasagna verde “Casa Reccia” more than compensated, though. The green pasta was layered with beef, sausage and cheese, and a delicious besciamella sauce covered one end. Other main dishes we sampled included tournedos Miranda, two slices of beef tenderloin in a sauce with lots of fresh basil, garlic, olive oil and tomato. The beef was fork tender and the sauce had plenty of character. We also enjoyed the chicken breast Angelina, with eggplant, mozzarella and sage. Eggplant also came as a vegetable of the day, breaded and fried and topped with a tangy tomato sauce.
Desserts at Ruggeri’s turned out to be mostly conventional, but excellent. The crisp, fresh shell of the cannoli was filled with sweet ricotta, and the custard of the zabaglione had just the right touch of mar-sal a. Most of the food here followed that pattern: There aren’t many surprises, but the quality is as good as at all but a very few Italian restaurants in Dallas. (2911 Routh. 871-7377. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11: 30, Fri & Sat 6-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)
Plus Fours. One ethnic cuisine that Dallas doesn’t seem to have had before is English, and the lapse is understandable, given the reputation of English cooking. But no longer: Now we have Plus Fours, which tries to be a British sporting pub and a grill at the same time. The atmosphere, not to mention the location on McKinney (formerly that of Patry’s and then briefly of Joanna’s), is tonier than that of your stereotypical British pub. For starters, there’s a glossy, well-populated bar, but the main dining room has a studied, decorated look. A mural of a British school sporting field graces the long wall, and quasi-antique spoils memorabilia like old tennis racquets and cricket bats are hung strategically around the room. Still, Plus Fours has a cozy quality that makes it a welcome haven, especially on a chilly night.
It takes a while to get to food at Plus Fours, and that’s because food takes something of a back seat to atmosphere. If you’re looking for something a little different you’ll find it here; the proprietors certainly can’t be accused of offering local clichés. You will find items like Scotch eggs (boiled eggs coated with sausage and cooked again, then served with a heavy brown gravy), lamb curry (the English variety, with meat cooked a shorter time and with much less spice than any Indian version) and the ubiquitous mixed grill (with pork, beef, lamb, liver, sausage-and even a shrimp, all served with a sauce made from reduced red wine). The gravies are just that, rather than sauces-they are heavy and taste ominously like the canned stuff your mother poured over roast beef sandwiches when she was having a bad day. The beef olive-a large slice of beef rolled around peppers in a pinwheel and then braised-suffered from similar heaviness and a large dose of salt. These items from the dinner menu mostly disappear at lunch and late supper, when short-order specialties like fish and chips put in their appearance. On weekends there are supposed to be larger feasts, with British favorites like roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and even steak-and-kidney pie (or just steak pie for the squeamish). Desserts include the oddest versions of English trifle we have yet encountered: lots of liqueur along with the cake and whipped cream and a strange selection of fruits including raw apple and melon. Plus Fours, so far, seems to be more successful as a pub than as a restaurant (in the dining room, revelers abound at all hours). But if you fancy English cooking, now you can get it in Dallas. (2504 McKinney Ave. 871-2757. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-3. All credit cards $$-$$$)
India Palace. The proprietors of Kebab ’n’ Kurry, Dallas’ premier ethnic hole-in-the-wall, have opened a grander place. India Palace is larger and more attractively decorated than die original location of Kebab ’n’ Kurry, but it is not so much in the externals of decor that India Palace shows its ambition as in its menu. The older restaurant is consistently excellent in a small range of dishes, but this new one explores some fresh territory and offers a larger range of preparations. Among the appetizers, for instance, are pakora (Indian fritters) made from chicken and fish alongside the more frequently seen vegetable ones. The chooza pakora, made from boneless chicken marinated in yogurt, ginger and garlic, have a strong, spicy flavor but are not too hot. Among the main dishes, beef punjabi is one we haven’t encountered before; this one is very hot-we love spicy foods, but couldn’t finish the entire portion. We wished we could have, though, because the sauce, so pungent with slivers of garlic and fresh peppers, had a fantastic taste.
More familiar dishes are executed with distinction at India Palace, too. The mixed grill of meats cooked in the clay barbecue pit called the tandoor yielded tender chicken, spicy chunks of fish, lamb cubes, lamb sausage and large roasted shrimp. Accompanied by fresh strips of naan, lear-shaped bread also cooked in the tandoor, each of these is a feast. Aloo bengan, eggplant and potatoes sautéed with onions, tomatoes and spices, makes a perfect vegetable contrast, If the spice becomes a bit too much, the perfect antidote is one of the sweet Indian desserts-gulab jamun (balls of fried cheese pastry in a sugar syrup) or kheer badami (rice made with milk, honey, raisins, nuts and coconut).
Like most Indian restaurants, India Palace serves a buffet on weekends that provides a low-cost introduction to many of its outstanding dishes. Tandoori chicken and naan are always available, as are a selection of salads including one of curried apples and potatoes and a soothing dish of yogurt and cucumber called raita. In addition there are varieties of chicken and meat curries, several vegetable curries (usually one of mixed vegetables and one of spinach and squares of homemade cheese) and a dal (a dish of lentils or beans that is the inevitable Indian accompaniment to the ubiquitous rice). We were delighted on our last visit to find two desserts available-even one is more than most buffets offer. The only drawback we could find to this buffet was the temptation to eat more than was good for us-and Indian food, with all its spices, is especially unforgiving of overindulgence. (13360 Preston Road. 392-0190. Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5: 30 pm-!0: 30pm. All credit cards. $-$$)
Bay Street. This still looks like Charley’s of old-the Addison branch is as big and airy as ever-and the ownership is still the same. But the menu is different enough to justify the change of names. You can still buy grilled fish here; to go along with the trend, the list of varieties available is written on chalkboards spotted all over the restaurant. A list of wines available by the glass-a good selection-is written there too. We ordered a halibut steak off the chalkboard and found it fresh and tasty. But now Bay Street claims to offer Cajun food as well. All we can say is don’t expect to find your boudin and an-douille, cher-this Cajun is your citified and standardized variety. But even if the changeover smacks of a commercial gimmick, some of the food being dished up is worth trying out. The Cajun popcorn appetizer- highly seasoned, deep-fried crayfish tails-is sensational, truly as hard to stop eating as popcorn. Gumbo is decent, and boiled shrimp are underseasoned but adequate. You expect this sort of menu to have blackened everything, We found Bay Street out of red-fish, but they cheerfully blackened some red snapper for us. This was not a good idea- the snapper was a fishy and flat-tasting version of this contemporary cliché. More interesting was the shrimp étouffée. Made with dark roux (and slightly floury tasting from it), this thick, brown version wasn’t like any étouffée we had tried in Louisiana, but it had its own appeal. There were other things to like, like the pasta salad. The pecan pie is probably the best of the desserts. We found the service to be hard-working but not very cordial. (5348 Belt Line Road, Addison. 934-8502. Sun-Thurs 11 am-10 pm, Fri-Sat 12-11, MC, V, AE. $$)
Ricardo’s. The intersection of Midway Road and Trinity Mills has spawned a number of restaurants, but this is one of our favorites. It is Mexican in the new, polished style-the colors are rose and plum, with only a few cacti around to give away the ethnic orientation. The menu is conventional but appealing. We enjoyed the beef fajitas (neither overmarinated nor undercharred) and the broiled chicken breast, which had a pleasant flavor and a light melting of cheese on top. A few less frequently seen dishes like came guisada (beef stewed with potatoes and green peppers) also are executed deftly. The conventional Tex-Mex plates are better than average, with thick, meaty tamales and rich-tasting refritos that still have a few unmashed beans. Desserts include a decent chocolate amaretto cheesecake (though we still don’t think the idea a particularly good one-chocolate doesn’t mix well with sour undertones of cheesecake) and excellent sopapillas, pillows of fried dough topped with cinnamon and sugar and served with honey on the side. (17610 Midway. Mon-Sat 11 am-10pm, Sun 11 am-9pm. 931-5073. All credit cards. $-$$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
WE HAVE omitted the numerical ratings that previously accompanied each restaurant review Our next biannual Restaurant Guide, which will be published in February, will unveil the new ratings of all the restaurants we review. Until then, however, we will continue to (lag the superior -and highly recommended -restaurants with a big, bold D.
Restaurant visits by our reviewers are done anonymously in order to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this listing has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.
We’re also changing our pricing symbols, going from the general to the precise. The following pricing structure is based on the cost of dinner for one, including an appetizer, entree, dessert and glass of wine:
$, less than $10 (considered a good bargain)
$$. $10-$25 (middle ground for a good meal)
$$$, S25-S50 (expensive)
$$$$, $50 (very expensive)
“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.
Credit card notations include: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
Bon appetit!
AMERICAN NOUVELLE
D BIom’s. Every dish here stretches the imagination to its ultimate. On our last visit the ever-changing menu yielded duck liver with ginger and mango; a salad of endives, oysters and liny beets: rack of lamb crowned with an herb soufflé and lots of fresh rosemary; and a crêpe filled with a light mixture of yams and walnuts. The wild-game terrine, the salad with goat cheese and crumbled walnuts and the chocolate Marquise were exemplary too. On this visit, so was the service. (Westin Hotel. Galleria, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494. Daily 6: 30-10 pm; Sun brunch: 10: 30-2. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
Catalina. From the owners of Zanzibar and the defunct Chickeria comes this new Lower Greenville attempt to combine New Southwestern Cuisine with various other Texas and California fads. Paradoxically, the cooking is pretty good but the food usually is odd at best. In the case of the Alamo Bay Noodles, the menu description says almost everything: Blackened Gulf prawns coated with cayenne, garlic powder and coriander sautéed until crisp and served on rice vermicelli noodles with black bean sauce. The chicken satay comes with a gloppy peanut butter sauce rather far from the real Asian thing, and the Uncle Paul’s Popcorn Crawfish are marred by a sauce that claims to be Cajun but is mostly just sweet. The best things at Catalina are grilled-a fish special of amberjack, the veal ribs, and pork chops. (3707 Greenville. 821-6959. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11. 30-2: 30; dinner. Mon-Thur 6-11. Fri 6-midnighi; Sat 11: 30 am-midnight. All credit cards $$)
D Dakota’s. The new chef hired on at the end of the summer raised the food here to a new level. The grilled specialties like the medallions of tenderloin (accompanied by a silky sauce) and fish-of-the-day yellowfin tuna are once more reliably cooked. The accompanying grilled vegetables are not too smokey in taste, and done to just the right degree of tenderness. But more complex recipes now are even better The daily pasta special, with scallops and wild mushrooms, has an autumnal richness that makes it one of the city’s foremost pasta dishes. And if you thought duck soup was only the title of a Marx brothers movie, try the dish here- you’ll be in duck soup! (600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11: 30; Sun brunch: 11-3. AH credit cards. Lunch $$, dinner $$$)
Gershwin’s. By daylight at Sunday brunch time, Gershwin’s takes on a whole new feel. The well-dressed set that gathers for live music m the evenings is joined by pinafored young ladies fresh from Sunday school. Gershwin’s regular menu offerings-which feature lots of grilled things like chicken breast marinated and flavored with fresh oregano as well as fancy pastas-are joined by brunch classics like Eggs Benedict and Belgian waffles with strawberries and whipped cream. All of this off a special brunch menu (there is no buffet), and prices are reasonable, mostly between $6 and $10. (8442 Walnut Hill at Greenville. 373-7171. Sun-Thur 11: 30 am-midnight, Fri&Sat 11: 30 am-1 am. All credit cards $$)
Laurel’s. We couldn’t have been more pleased with the epicurean results on our latest visit to the posh restaurant at the top of the Sheraton Park Central Hotel near Central and LBJ. An appetizer of mesquite-grilled squab with tomatoes and Bibb lettuce was laced with a creamy vinaigrette dressing. The special entree of the evening was poached lobster with a memorable creamy, green basil sauce. The lobster was lender and shelled, and the chef had taken the time to create a beautiful shell pattern out of the sauce We finished every bite of the beautiful, fresh blueberries and whipped cream and the ricotta cheese/sponge cake. The next best thing Laurel’s has going for it besides the food is a fabulous view of the Dallas skyline. (Sheraton Park Central Hotel, 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Mon-Sat 7 pm-10pm. Closed Sun Reservations recommended. Jackets required. All credit cards $$$$)
D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Dean Fearing, perhaps Dallas’ most talented chef, has returned in triumph to the Mansion, where he got his local start. To begin with, he kept his predecessor’s menu and added some of his own characteristic inventions as daily specials. We found these to be the restaurant’s best dishes-a salad of warm Si. Pierre fish with a chiffonade of spinach and radicchio with a tomato-shallot vinaigrette and sautéed baby Coho salmon on corncakes with roasted pepper sauce. The holdover salad of Maine lobster and arugula seemed to have a more aggressive chile ancho dressing than before, which was all to the good, but the roast lamb loin, though served with delicious truffled new potatoes, was tough. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room Jackets and ties required. Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-230; brunch: Sat noon-2. 30. Sun 11-2: 30: dinner: Sun- Thur 6-10: 30, Fri & Sat 6-11: supper: Mon-Thur 10: 30 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-mid-night Promenade Room-breakfast, daily 7-10: 30; lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: tea: Mon-Fri 3-5: 30. Reservations All credit cards $$$$)
D REVISITS
Parigi. This trendy place doesn’t seem quite as popular as it was when it first opened a year ago, but we find that the food and service have actually improved There’s still the same striving for originality -to the point of shocking, sometimes – but on our last visit all the far-out recipes worked. The salad of arugula and warm goat cheese was spiked with a vinaigrette with mashed black olives and sprigs of fresh herbs. The appetizer sampler plate included ratatouille (with yellow squash instead of zucchini) and a delicious curried tuna and pasta salad. One of Parigi’s specialties is off-the-wall pasta combinations; ours of black-pepper fet-tuccine, chicken, candied onions, spinach and gruyère was cooked to perfection. So was the sautéed Pacific flounder, sauced with capers Both the chocolate glob (a pudding with lots of walnuts) and the pear cobbler came coated with a mound of lightly whipped cream. (3311 Oak Lawn, Suite 102. 521-0295. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11: 30-2: 30, dinner: Tue-Thur 6: 30-10: 30; Fri & Sat 6: 30-11; Sat brunch: 10-3. Closed Sun & Mon. MC. V. AE. DC $$-$$$)
D Routh Street Cafe. Ever had ethereal broiled catfish in a pecan sauce? Honey dew-tequila ice or a sherbet with mangos and hot chile serrano? You can find such delicacies only at Dallas’ number-one purveyor of restaurant chic. Routh Street Cafe Other dishes that receive the New Southwestern treatment are shrimp and lobster, veal and game, superlative salads and magnificent desserts. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Tue-Sat 6-10: 30 pm. Lounge: Tue-Sat 6 pm-1. 30 am. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
Salute. Spots of color against black woodwork and shutters make Salute one of the handsomest places to eat on McKinney. The menu features mostly grilled and fried things, with occasional hip nouvelle-ish touches in the accompaniments. Among the most memorable are the fried banana peppers and the onion crisps (long strings of onions delicately fried and served alongside almost everything on the menu). Steaks and hamburgers come off the best among the grilled items, though both poussin (small, young chicken) and tuna steaks have a nice flavor, too. Many of the dishes at Salute have a picante afterbite, from the ranch-style salad dressing to the onion crisps. (2909 McKinney. 871-2407 Mon-Wed 11 am-10 pm, Thur & Sat 11 am-11 pm. Fri 11 am-midnight Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
BARBECUE/TEXANA
Anderson’s Barbecue House. This place used to be called Epp’s, and in fact, the sign on Harry Hines (right across from Southwestern Medical School) still reads that way. But the name is really the only thing changed – the barbecue and fixin’s are still excellent, and the people are still friendly. The smallish ribs have a smokey flavor, and you can ask for outside cuts of the tender sliced beef. The side dishes are truly outstanding: The french fries and okra are both fresh and freshly fried. You can also find such delicacies as butter beans, green beans with ham and even baked potatoes. (5410 Harry Hines Blvd. 630-0735. Mon-Fri 11 am-7: 45 pm, Sat 11 am-3 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Sonny Bryan’s. Some things never change, and thank goodness Sonny Bryan’s still seems to be one of them. The barbecue is unequaled in Dallas-smokey ribs with the slightest crunch of char, beef slices with a smooth texture and a rich flavor. Aside from the vinegar-sparked sauce (served in dispensers kept hot on a warming plate) and fine onion rings, the rest of the food isn’t notable, but the funky atmosphere is. You order standing up in the middle of a crowd, and sit on school desks if you can find one amid the litter. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 10am-3 pm. Sun 11 am-2pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
CHINESE
Cathy’s Wok. When we heard that the Cathy for whom this restaurant is named is Catherine Liu, the local cookbook writer and Chinese cooking teacher, we headed eagerly for Piano to check out the operation Liu’s restaurant concept turns out to be a kind of Chinese fast food place There is a drive through at the end of the strip shopping center location, and much of the business is of the telephone-and-pick-up variety. An added twist is that Cathy’s Wok claims that its food is healthier than at other Chinese places- only vegetable oil is used and no MSG is added to dishes- and that every effort is being made to keep prices low, The food is better-than-average Chinese restaurant fare, though not the special experience we had hoped for based on Liu’s reputation. (4010 W 15th, Piano. 964-0406. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9: 30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Dynasty. This elegantly appointed Chinese restaurant keeps on getting better as it matures and relaxes. Instead of a lot of set-price dinners, the menu now concentrates on such interesting dishes as the steamed vegetable dumplings. Pink Lady (shrimp coated in crab roe and fried) and chicken with macadamia nuts. The Dynasty Orange Beef is an excellent version of that now classic dish. Our only complaint is that the very Western pastries we were served for dessert tasted stale from lengthy refrigeration. (Garden inn, 4101 Belt Une, Addison. 385-7888. Mon-Thur 11: 30 am-10: 30 pm, Fri & Sat 11: 30 am-11: 30 pm, Sun 11: 30am-10: 30 pm. All credit cards $$$)
D REVISITS
China Palace. This unlikely looking spot in a Richardson shopping center is open virtually all night long, and it proves the rule that some of the best Chinese restaurants are outstanding for a few dishes only The mostly Asian clientele seems to have been tipped off that the fried dumplings here are the best in the Metroplex – maybe in the country. The little crescents of tilled dough come from the fire with a beautiful brown glaze on one side. the filling is lender and the dipping sauce holds bits of hot pepper and coriander Other dumplings on the long list are outstanding too, as is the beef noodle soup. The beet has the delicious spicy flavor of meat braised Chinese style, but the gelatinous texture may not be to all Occidental tastes. Stir-fried dishes from the regular menu are mostly only of average quality, but the version of orange beet is excellent. (400 N Greenville, Richardson. 669-1636 Daily 11 am-5 am MC. V. $$)
Imperial Dragon. The reality on the plate does not always match the splendor promised on the menu. Appetizers turn out to be mostly tried things, even the Crispy Ham is essentially just plain old shrimp toast with a strip of ham in a pretty pattern. And the quality is not always exemplary-the pork balls, for instance, are dry and overcooked. But there are unusual dishes like the steamed shrimp (cleverly twisted into little knots with strips of ham and black mushroom) that do work. And there are twists on well-known dishes that yield good results, like the honey apple dessert that has a subtle taste of rum. (2901 N Central, Suite 125, Piano. 423-6766. Lunch: daily 11-2: 30, dinner: Sun-Thur5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$)
New Big Wong. When you want to eat as the Chinese do, go to the New Big Wong Start with the winter melon soup, which also contains shrimp, chicken and other delicacies. Move on to a live lobster (from the tank near the door) cooked m ginger sauce. (The carp, eels and other sea creatures seem to have gone the way of all flesh. ) Add a dish of beef with Chinese broccoli {with looser flowers and a stronger taste than the European variety) or one of shrimp with garlic sauce, and you have an instant trip across the Pacific. (2121 S Greenville 821-4199. Daily 11 am-3am. MC, V. AE. $$)
Pacific Pearl. This is one of the most pleasant Chinese places m the city It’s airy, bright and washed in soft pink colors. Our mushrooms stuffed with shrimp could have offered more taste, but everything else-from a great cold noodle appetizer in peanut sauce to eggplant in a redolent garlic sauce and a bountiful menage a frais of chicken, beef and shrimp-was first-class. And a note of praise for the service. Granted, the restaurant was far from crowded, but our waitress was attentive and instructive beyond the call of duty. (601 Pacific. 745-1688. Sun-Thur 11 am-10: 30pm, Fn&Sat 11: 30 am-11: 30 pm MC. V. AE, $$)
Royal China. This neighborhood place is well worth a visit, for owner Buck Kao’s warm welcome as well as for the very good food. The sizzling rice soup lives up to its name, and although the dry stir beef doesn’t-it’s saucier than the authentic version-it tastes fine. too. From the bean sprouts sautéed with shredded pork to the kung po shrimp topped with peanuts. Royal China is dependable and enjoyable. Service is usually exemplary, but on our last visit it was a bit unsmiling (Preston Royal Shopping Center, Preston at Royal, Suite 201. 361-1771. Lunch: daily 11: 30-2: 30. dinner: daily 5: 30-10. Ail credit cards. $$)
Taiwan. We hit both branches of this favorite Chinese place close together and found an interesting contrast. The original location on Greenville, which seemed elegant enough when it opened, now seems a bit dowdy in contrast to the newer location and to the other fancy Chinese restaurants in town. But it is probably the best place in town to eat late at night -the sautéed scallops we tried were perfectly cooked The Addison branch is simitar in quality, but the handsome surroundings make the experience much more festive. We enjoyed the whole fish with Szechuan sauce, the tangerine beef and the chicken with vegetables. (6111 Greenville- 369-8902; 4980 Belt Line, Addison, 387-2333. Mon-Fri 11 am-3am. Sat 1030am-3am, Sun 10: 30-10: 30 at Greenville location; Sun-Thur 11: 30 am-10: 30 pm, Fri & Sat 11: 30-11. 30 at Addison location. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$)
D Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. Its always good to see a successful restaurant trying to better itself, so we were pleased to see that Uncle Tai had put a whole bevy of new specialties on the menu Of the four we tried, three were winners. The crispy quail proved a wonderful appetizer. The two main courses were extraordinary, too. The venison stir-fried with hot peppers and accompanied by large chunks of zucchini had a startling, slightly gamy flavor, and the Zesty Salmon had a crusty surface and a sauce (sure enough) zesty with ginger, vinegar and wood ears The one blah novelty was the chicken and ham stirred with shreds of iceberg lettuce. One complaint: All the dishes were salty to a fault. Our high blood pressure makes us cry Uncle! (Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fn&Sat 11 am-1Q: 30pm. Sun 12-10 pm. Jackets required for dinner. Ail credit carets. $$$}
DELI/LUNCH
Ms. Betty’s. The lady has moved her kitchen from the western edge of the Park Cities to the southern one (careful, the new Turtle Creek Village location is hard to spot) The simple fare of sandwiches {ham or chicken salad on luscious breads), soups and salads is still executed with a lovely touch. You wonder sometimes, though, how it can take so long to dish up these spare delicacies for so few tables. And the portions are decidedly dainty- you won’t become stout from eating at Ms Betty’s, even from the splendidly rich pies (served in half pieces). (185 Turtle Creek Village 526-5084. Mon-Fri 11 am-2. 30pm, Sat 11 am-2pm. Closed Sun No credit cards, personal checks accepted. $)
Pacific Express. If you don’t get lost on the way (the building’s address is on Pacific, but the restaurant actually faces Elm), you can have a tasty lunch here amid lots of shiny chrome and oversized abstract paintings. Salad combinations include large portions of such unusual fare as salads made from wild nee or smoked chicken. Hefty sandwiches feature lots of ham and cheese on coarse-textured bread. The desserts are lavish, from peach cobbler to chocolate-chip cheesecake. (Pacific Place Bldg, 1910 Pacific, Suite 103. 969-7447. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm. Closed Sat S Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
FRENCH/CONTINENTAL
Abio. “You had dinner downtown?’’ It’s true, long after the power lunches have been cleared from the linen-clothed tables at Abio {located across the street from RepublicBank and on the diagonal from the post office), there remains much to enjoy. Tiny complimentary crocks of French onion soup began the meal, followed by a spinach salad dressed with warm bacon and cognac A gargantuan pepper steak was good, but a Cornish hen and lobster tail duo that caught our attention for its uniqueness was disappointing, sunk in a too-heavy brown gravy that shrouded the natural appeal of both elements. Baby asparagus and a zucchini boat stuffed with tomatoes made fresh-tasting accompaniments. Abio closes occasionally on a whim (One Dallas Centre, Bryan at St Paul. 922-9070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2: 30; dinner Mon-Sat6-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards Lunch $$, dinner $$$)
Arthur’s. We began with excellent crab meat-stuffed mushroom caps, which were piping hot, delicately seasoned and served seemingly without benefit of microwaves A second course of Caesar salad was equally well-prepared, as was an innovative cold, creamed purée of sweet potatoes. The entrées, alas, left us less inspired. A tettuccine in cream sauce with lobster and truffles was overbearingly rich, though crammed with lump lobster meat. A pepper steak in a sauce ’of five varieties of peppercorns” fared better; both were accompanied with crunchy green snow peas A final round of homemade vanilla ice cream with fresh blueberries and what is humbly touted as “the best chocolate mousse cake in the world” rounded out a generally satisfactory meal. (Campbell Centre. 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2: 30: dinner: Mon-Fri 6-11, Sat 6 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Baccarat. Some dishes are extremely well done at this new North Dallas Continental restaurant The baked oysters in a mushroom and wine sauce are as fine a cooked treatment of that mollusk as we have eaten, the subtle topping complemented rather than masked the flavor of the shellfish. The escargots (with hazlenuts in the seasoned butter), the scallops m a creamy Vermouth sauce, and even the shrimp flavored with rum, tomato and lime were all appetizers good enough to make us think Baccarat an interesting place to dine. Our entrées proved a mixed lot. The best was the grilled swordfish with an orange sauce that did not intrude too much on its natural flavor. The rack of lamb, though, suffered from a sauce made nasty by too much dried tarragon, (12660 Coil Road 387-5555. Lunch Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10: 30. All credit cards $$$)
Cafe de France/French Bakery. The owners have sold their Piano shop and enlarged the newer Preston Road location, turning it into much more of a full-service café than before The menu includes really tine hamburgers and ham sandwiches served on croissants or French rolls, and other good, simple fare like omelettes. The daily specials include crusty, garlicky scampi and a lovely version of chicken cordon bleu Desserts, of course, stare at you throughout the meal, daring you to resist a piece of lemon-mousse-and-rum cake or a crunchy chocolate chip cookie. (17370 Preston Road, Suite505. 2482229 Sat-Thur 7: 30am-11 pm, Fri 7: 30 am-midnight. All credit cards, personal checks accepted $$)
D REVISITS
D Café Royal. The new menu returns this place to the glory it enjoyed when it opened; if the renaissance keeps up, soon Café Royal will again be one of the very top restaurants m Dallas. We tried several dishes that juxtaposed luxurious ingredients. Salads that combined sautéed sweetbreads and medallions of lobster, or duck liver and tiny green beans, made first-rate beginnings. A thick, juicy (if slightly underseasoned) veal steak was garnished with large shrimp. And a pungent sauce made a grand unity of the combination of tender, meaty quail, hearty venison and foie gras. The side dish of hand-whittled asparagus justifies the extra tab, and the dessert cart offers fruit tarts with flaky crusts and’ ’ dark chocolate cakes. (Plaza of the Amencas. 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2; din-ner: Mon-Sat 6: 30-10. 30. Closed Sun Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
D Calluaud. This can seem the best restaurant in town or it can seem stuffy and overpriced. Sadly, our last visit was one of the latter occasions – owner/chef Guy Calluaud must have been snoozing. Our appetizer paté en croute was humdrum, and the sautéed red snapper had a slightly sharp taste not masked by the sauce. The superb rack of lamb and hazelnut soufflé only partly made up for the disappointment. It’s ironic when the two spinoffs serve better food, at half the price, than the glossy parent place. (2619 McKinney 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9: 30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE. DC. $$$$)
Don Pepe. Don Pepe is just good enough that you want it to be a lot better Don Pepe is almost a Spanish restaurant But the chef, who used to cook for the Onassises, is not content to be merely authentic-he has to be more Continental and refined, and that’s a shame (since we have plenty of Continental restaurants in Dallas already and no real Spanish food}. The escargots are great big snails tastily sautéed with mushrooms and a fillip of wine, and the shrimp scampi get essentially the same treatment Entrées here, though, are decidedly a mixed bag The worst disappointment was the Paella Don Pepe: a great platter of soggy rice and utterly tasteless globs of fish, chicken, pork and seafood. Our best choices were the shrimp with garlic sauce, which had large crustaceans done to a turn, and the lamb chops mediterraneo, which presented us with a half dozen chops cooked precisely pink as ordered and lopped with a full-bodied red wine sauce. (13601 Preston. 788-2266. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2: 30. dinner Mon-Sat 5: 30-10. Closed Sun All credit cards. )
D REVISITS
D Chez Gerard. If we had to name one Dallas restaurant that seems most genuinely to reflect the tastes of France, il would be Chez Gerard. Some of the dishes it offers might well be considered old-fashioned in the old country, but even m France getting back to culinary roots is in vogue. Where else in Dallas, after all, can you find choucroute garnie – the French version of sauerkraut, served up with two kinds of sausage and two kinds of ham7 Or rognons de veau-chunks of veal kidney stewed with bacon and mushrooms? These hearty dishes make us forgive the eminently forgettable first courses (sautéed shrimp, tough in a characterless sauce, and strong-lasting, chewy mussels) and the undistinguished house wine. The desserts helped immensely, too, especially the light-as-a-feather floating island (4444 McKinney 522-6865. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. Lunch $$, dinner $$$)
Ewald’s. Ewald’s is elegant, but the staff is friendly enough to make you feel as though you’ve been a regular since way back. On our last visit, we began the meat with wonderful appetizers, mushrooms stuffed with crab meat and garnished with fried parsley, and finished with heavenly fresh raspberries served with heavy cream The other dessert we sampled, the chocolate mousse, suffered from a slight case of refrigerator burn. And the entrées we tried, shrimp du chef and veal papagallo. were both sauced too heavily. The fresh green beans and baked bananas were pleasing enough, but the spaetzli was bland by comparison. (5415 W Lovers Lane. 357-1622 Mon-Fri 6-10 pm. Sat 6-10: 30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards $$$)
D The French Room. The new maitre d’ makes the French Room even grander (no more display dishes wrapped m plastic wrap!) And the food resurrects is gloire of France: scallop mousse, red Spanish shrimp salad, loup (French sea bass) lightly sautéed with asparagus sauce and a fruit tart with Bavarian cream couldn’t have been better. Almost as good were lettuce soup garnished with langoustines, a steak in a sauce flecked with marrow and a flourless nouvelle chocolate cake with mocha frosting. The potato pancakes served as a vegetable garnish with the entrées were perhaps the best surprise of all. (Adol-phus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200 Dinner: daily 6: 30-10: 30 Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
The Garden Court. As the remodeling of this stately old hotel progresses, the Garden Court becomes a more charming place to dine, with its high ceilings and its old-fashioned ambience. Sunday brunch is an especially pleasant time to try it. Complimentary mimosas or glasses of champagne (or fresh-squeezed juice for teetotalers) set off a feast that includes clams and crab claws alongside the usual oysters and shrimp. Devotees of the eggs can choose between made-to-order omelettes or Eggs Benedict.. or take both. The beef roast is, for a happy change, a standing rib, and there are delicious alternatives like stir-fried chicken with lots of vegetables, broadcasting the odor of sesame oil. The various salads and the fruit table are lavish (when was the last time anybody offered you all the raspberries you could eat?); the desserts, though lovely, prove a bit of an anticlimax. (Melrose Hotel, 3Q15 0ak!awn. 521-5151. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6: 30-1030, Fri & Sat 6: 30-11; Sunday brunch: 11-2. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)
Harpers. This penthouse restaurant, with a lovely view of the city, suffers somewhat from being treated almost as an adjunct of its bar. We don’t think that a cocktail hour buffet or a performing band adds much to the lone of an expensive restaurant. But the mostly classic food coming out of the kitchen can be surprisingly impressive Our main courses-veal medallions in a green peppercorn sauce and Colorado lamb chops-were the best things, the veal tender and white, the lamb racy in its coating of rosemary and accompanying Choron sauce. The shrimp appetizer was a bit strange-its accompanying julienne of lime shocked us with its sweetness. But, cliché or not, the final chocolate mousse was appealingly dense and rich. After dinner, try a little cheek-to-cheek dancing. (Hilton Inn. 5600 N Central Expwy at Mockingbird. 823-9180. Tue-Thur 6-Wpm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$. )
Jennivine. Over the years. Jennivine has increasingly lived up to ils claim to be a wine bar as well as a restaurant by offering a larger selection of wines by the glass. We like to sample them to the accompaniment of some cheese and the rich, gamey pale maison (which we like better than either the paté de campagne or the salmon paté) As for the main courses, our salmon was delicately cooked, with a mustard sauce almost too tame for the name. A more robust mushroom sauce lopped tender scallops of veal, and the tan of accompanying vegetables se! them off nicely. About the only dish around here that smacks of England (the declared ethnic origin of the place) is the English trifle, an unusual dessert for Dallas. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11: 30-2: 30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10: 30. All credit cards. )
D L’Ambiance. There’s an occasional disappointment here, but we could eat the signature dishes at L’Ambiance over and over again. To rattle off the less-than-perfect things first, the paté was a bit fatty and lacked taste; a daily special of veal scallops francese, though made from high-quality meat, suffered from an eggy batter and an undersea-soned sauce. The rest of the meal, though, was perfection. The rich, rich seafood bisque contained lots of tiny shrimp, and the red snapper-sautéed and topped with more seafood – was poetry itself Salads are very special here, and this time we discovered thai the tomato salad rivals the one with spinach, bacon and goat cheese: Firm red slices topped with a well-made vinaigrette and basil were a celebration of summer. Desserts, too, are local classics, especially the Concord cake- two slices of chocolate meringue bonded together by chocolate pastry cream. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2. dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10: 30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$).
La Touraine. La Touraine is the name of one of the loveliest regions of France, and its namesake here is one of the loveliest-and most reasonably priced -French restaurants in Dallas. The high ceilings and stout beams of the old building have been fitted out with elegant blond wood, mirrors and brass trim. La Touraine offers everything from a light meal to the most substantial and hearty old-fashioned French fare. The main dishes mercifully shy away from nouvelle cuisine, which is paradoxically seeming more and more old hat. The kitchen at La Touraine seems much more comfortable with homey stews like a navarin of lamb or boeuf bourguignonne – these needed only a bit more seasoning to be very satisfying. As you would expect at a place whose co-owner is the proprietor of La Madeleine, the baked goods are among the best things to eat here. (1701 N Market. 749-0080. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11: 30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10: 30, Fri-Sun 5: 30-11. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Le Boul’ Mich. This cozy gray house across from the Quadrangle has been the favorite “little French restaurant” of many Dallasites for many years. But lately we’ve noticed a little graying around the temples, a fading from glory, a surrender to Old Man Time. The food is basically sound: A seafood omelette and a lunchtime quiche we had recently were definitively French and first-rate. The veal Francais was fender and tasty, although underwhelmingly sauced in a simple lemon butter. But the accompanying string beans and carrots arrived shriveled, presumably from overcooking, and the overall presentation just wasn’t impressive. What’s missing here is the aura of festivity so prevalent at Dallas’ more popular French restaurants; Le Boul’ Mich offers the laid-back comfort of home. (2704 Wor-thington. 826-0660. Mon-Thur 11 am-10: 30pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-11: 30pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Le Marmiton. We can’t quite figure why someone would go to the trouble and expense of creating such a pleasant restaurant environment and stick it away on a block of Lowest Greenville, but inside Le Marmiton boasts delicate crystal and good china, fresh linens and fresh flowers. The food, though, is perplexing. There are enough really successful dishes to show seriousness in the kitchen; Among the appetizers alone, the sautéed softshell crabs heaped with toasted almonds and the seafood sausage (grilled in its casing) are outstanding. But there are problems. The fish in three sauces boasted well cooked scallops, sole and swordfish, but the sauces all lacked distinction. Perhaps the tastiest dish we tried was a daily special of lamb in a marvelously garlicky herb sauce – but leg o1 lamb does not take well to being sliced and cooked piecemeal (the individual muscles draw up and toughen), so the texture of the dish was not as successful as the taste. (1920 Greenville. 821-6250. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Fri 6-10: 30. Sat 6-1l. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Le Panier. Since this quiet Snider Plaza spot was being remodeled and enlarged on the occasion of our last visit, we went back to see if things were any different from our last, disappointing experience. Every table was full, but we still found the food uninspired. Several of the limited selection of appetizers seem like something offered by ambitious little restaurants back in the Sixties-there are lots of artichoke hearts and olives sprinkled among the shrimp and the paté, to little purpose. The roast lamb, served in a heavy sauce with mint jelly on the side, also seemed more old-fashioned American than Greek to us. and the one concession to trendiness – blackened redfish, what else? – was fishy lasting. (3404 Rankin. 369-3241. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 am-3pm; dinner: Tue-Sat6-10. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended for dinner. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Les Saisons. This beautiful French bistro is tucked away m Turtle Creek Village and is well known for being one of the most popular spots for a “power lunch” in Dallas. On our last visit, however, the food and service lacked some of the polish we’ve grown accustomed to expect. We were first sealed at a wobbly table that the waiter unsuccessfully tried to fix with a rolled table napkin. Despite the bad start, the brie soup with its rich, creamy flavor impressed us. The special of the day was grilled swordfish, but the consistency of the fillet was mushy rather than flaky The popular seafood salad was tilled with crispy lettuce and very fresh shrimp, crab and avocados As a final note, the quality of the desserts seem to be more consistent than the entrées – don’t miss the chocolate mousse cake. (Turtle Creek Village. Oak Lawn at Blackburn, Suite 165. 528-1102. Sun-Fri 11: 30 am-11 pm, Sat 11: 30 am-11. 30 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Papillon. Since its move to a far North Dallas location (incongruously, in the ground floor of an office building), Papillon looks stately. The food has its ups and downs, but in this neighborhood there isn’t much competition for the carriage trade. The ups on our most recent visit were the entrées. The veal scallops with chanterelle mushrooms were one of the best treatments around of an often mistreated cut of meat. The sautéed red snapper, lapped with an ivory sauce and surrounded by shrimp, was cooked nicely too. Appe-tizers-a bland crab casserole and underseasoned shrimp in a rose-colored sauce- and desserts were far less interesting. (Abrams Center, 9330 LBJ 699-9788. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30- 2. dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
D Pyramid Restaurant. This classic Dallas institution is interesting again after a long slump, though not quite as good this time around as on our previous visit. A prix fixe dinner is now available and includes dishes like pasta with seafood as an appetizer and a thick veal chop as an entrée. The à la carte selections, though, seem better here. The lobster ravioli and the beef tenderloin in an unctuous Péri-gourdine sauce partake of the splendor of the revivified setting One of the nicest touches at the Pyramid Restaurant now is the selection of four champagnes by the glass, brought to the table iced down on a cart. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross at Akard. 720-2020. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11. 30-2. dinner: daily 6-10 All credit cards. $$$$)
St. Martin’s. Sometimes a wine bistro isn’t just a wine bistro Granted, this is an ideal nightspot for a romantic interlude – the tables are candlelit and covered with crisp while tablecloths and freshly cut red carnations- and its claim to fame seems to have been built on its wine and cheese-and-fruit or paté board offerings. But St. Martin’s also has a small yet varied menu ranging from roast beef and veal to pasta and swordfish. Although we are usually wary of varied menus, we were pleasantly surprised with the swordfish and veal medallions we were served. And the service is tops. (3020 Greenville. 826-0940. Mon-Thur 11 am-2: 30pm& 5-11 pm, Fri 11 am-2: 30 pm&5 pm-1 am, Sat 5 pm-1 am. Sun 5- 11 pm: Sun brunch: 11 -3. All credit cards. $$)
Three Vikings. The Scandinavian bric-a-brac on the walls had always struck us as the most ethnic thing about this restaurant – the cuisine is mostly middle-of-the-road Continental with a few Nordic touches. The Swedish meatballs, for instance-available either as an appetizer or as a main course-are not authentically dry but come in a heavy, glutinous (though tasty) sauce. The Veal Norway seems pretty close to a stuffed Veal Oscar to us – the hollandaise sauce is line, but the crab meat may taste fishy: the stuffing, alarmingly, reminds us of the stuffed flounders that used to plague seafood menus hereabouts. A special of the day of sautéed salmon was much more pleasant. One thing you can’t accuse the Three Vikings of is succumbing to the trend to “light” meals: Both the signature shrimp chowder {strong with the taste of dried dill} and the chocolate cheese pie are undeniable heavyweights. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm; Sun brunch 11-2. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
D The Riviera. With several of the better French restaurants in town sagging or closing recently. The Riviera seems more of a treasure than ever- and more serious about its claim to serve dishes from the south of France. The warm welcome by host Franco Bertolasi puts guests m the expectation of something special A recent visit netted us a prize of smoked scallops swathed in an unctuous sauce; by comparison, the other appetizer of tortellini with escargots was a mere second best. Both entrees, though, were winners: light and crisp St. Pierre (a Mediterranean fish) and perfectly cooked lamb chops, smelling of Provence with their seasoning of garlic and fresh rosemary. It was hard to finish the dessert of dense chocolate truffle cake after such a repast, but somehow we managed. (7709 Inwood. 351-0094. Mon-Thur 6: 30-10: 30, Fri & Sat 6: 30-11, Sun 5: 30-10pm. All credit cards. $$$$)
Zanzibar. What a schizoid evening we had here! Everything we ate and drank was marvelous, including a tasty Lalo salad with hearts of palm, artichoke hearts and Parmesan cheese. The fettuccine Magellan, thick and chewy with shrimp, nuts and red peppers in cream sauce, was an incongruous, perfectly successful mix. But the service was shameful. Our waitperson hadn’t yet mastered that clever trick (we hear it’s becoming a trend) of writing down, perhaps on a little pad, just what the customer ordered. Hence a ten-minute wait, in a room with fewer than ten people, for a glass of wine and equally long waits for dessert. (Us: ’Could we get that cheesecake now?’ WP: “What cheesecake?”) Well be back, confident that it couldn’t be this bad again. (2912 Greenville. 828-2250. Mon 6 pm-1 am, Tue-Thur 6 pm-2am, Fri & Sat 11: 30 am-2 am, Sun4pm-midnight, Sun brunch: 10: 30-3. AE, MC, V. $$)
GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN
Café Kashtan. After closing for a few months, Dallas’ only Ukrainian restaurant has reopened. The worst service problems seem to have been solved, though the policy of cooking everything from scratch still makes for a slowish pace – leave plenty of time for an evening visit. For starters, the best things here remain the soups (like the tart, cold green schi or the salanka, with beef, sausage and vegetables) or the delicious beet, potato and sauerkraut salads. The chicken tabaka (half a bird flattened and sautéed) and the beef stroganoff are good choices among the main dishes, accompanied by well-dressed salads and nicely cooked potatoes, pasta or rice. Desserts change daily: The almond cake with raspberry sauce will satisfy any sweet tooth. At lunchtime a number of unusual and inexpensive specialties are available. (5365 Spring Valley Rd at Montfort. 991-9550. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Fri5-10, Sat5-I1. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$} cards. $$)
Rheingauer Boemer. The rear courtyard of European Crossroads can seem pretty forlorn, but it is lovely to look at from this little German restaurant-the contrived-looking brick pavement and fountains become more convincing once you have downed a glass or two of real Pilsner from Czechoslovakia. Dallas is short on places that serve this sort of earthy German food, so the minor shortcomings don’t matter much at all. (The wiener schnitzel is made from thick, impounded cuts of veal, and the sauerbraten lacks a certain sparkle. ) By far the most memorable of the desserts is the only one made on the premises, the apple cake. (European Crossroads. 352-1175. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Tue-Thur6-10, Fri & Sat 6-midnight. MC, V, AE. DC. $$)
D Rolf’s. This time we decided to explore a few of the byways of the menu of this fine establishment, but we were not always rewarded by our daring. The herring salad was both too sweet and too sour, and neither the crab meat in our appetizer nor that served with out veal entrée tasted fresh. The schnitzel Holstein (a veal cutlet with a fried egg on top and accompanied with anchovies and capers) was crisp and greaseless but undersalted. Both chocolate desserts-the Sachertorte and the mousse cake-were pleasant but lacked that richness that attracts the loyalty of diehard chocolate fans We’ll continue to go back to Rolfs with plenty of anticipation – but for the dishes like the Sauerbraten and the apple cake that have never disappointed us. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. Suite 117. 696-1933 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11: 30-2: 30, dinner: Mon-Thur 5: 30-10: 30, Fri & Sat 5: 30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Bohemia. The fad of “lite” cooking has not invaded this little corner of Czechoslovakia, with its lace curtains and photos of Prague on the walls Everything served here is substantial, in proper Middle European fashion. The choice of appetizers (beyond the salad and soup that come with an entrée) is narrow, we found the beef tartar surprisingly tasty in spite of its mushy, almost blended consistency, but wondered whether the liver paté had actually been made on the premises. The Czech version of sauerbraten was sweeter and less sour than most of its German cousins-the sauce delicately spicy but the meat not quite tender. Roast duck had a gloriously crisp skin but dry, overcooked flesh. Both came with bread dumplings even heavier than the liver dumplings that had graced our soup. After all this nourishment, if you haven’t room for strudel. you might try the berries glace – not exactly slimming with its combination of strawberries, ice cream, meringues, liqueur and whipped cream, but refreshingly tart and sweet. (2810 N Henderson 826-6209. Sun & Tue-Thur 5: 30-9 pm, Fri & Sat 5: 30-10: 30 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards $$)
GOURMET CARRYOUT
Rich Chicks. Theresa Alexander, whose previous ventures include the Stoneleigh P and The Lounge in the Inwood Theatre, had an idea for a new sort of fast-food place-one that would look classy and serve healthier food than the usual places. As you might guess, Rich Chicks serves Rich Chicks (and a few complements) to rich chicks. The chickens are butterflied and coated with spices (fennel predominates), then slowly roasted and carved to order. The accompaniments consist of an uncooked tomato sauce (rather like a thick gaz-pacho), pita bread and a lovely lettuce-less Greek salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives and feta cheese. The food all tastes fine-the chicken is nice and juicy (except for the drumsticks, which tend to get overcooked and stringy) and it tastes very good either hot or cold. (Northwest Corner of Preston Royal Shopping Center, next to the Post Office. 691-7424. Daily 11 am-9 pm. AE on orders of $20 or more. $)
GREEK/MIDDLE EASTERN
D REVISITS
Gulf Coast Oyster Company. Dallas now has lots of good seafood houses, but only one Greek seafood place. This narrow, bustling restaurant serves the Greek caviar dip, taramousalata. before all entrées and offers a Greek appetizer platter, too (with crunchy fried squid and shrimp). Main dishes include skewered chicken and shrimp, grilled Greek-style, and shrimp cooked with feta cheese in a (too sweet) tomato sauce. The fish of the day can be even better-the sweet, delicate brill (a Mediterranean fish something like a flounder) was one of our favorite fish dishes ever. The baklava for dessert, though, proved slightly stale. (Comer Shopping Center. 8041 Walnut Hill Lane 361-1922. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner; Mon-Thur5-10, Fri 5-11. Sal 11-11 Closed Sun. MC V. AE $$-$$$)
INDIAN/ETHIOPIAN
D Kebab ’n’ Kurry. If we were forced at gunpoint to name our favorite ethnic restaurant in Dallas, this would probably be it. We suspect that part of the secret lies m the comparatively limited menu. There are really only a few delights of North Indian cuisine offered, but they are done superlatively well, from the chicken korma (rich, creamy and mild) to the shrimp in a tomatoey curry sauce. Paradoxically, you can find the rarest treasures here at the weekend lunch buffets. They offer such unusual delicacies as curried fresh black-eyed peas and lamb ribs (boney but magnificently sauced), for the ridiculously low price of $6. 95 for all you can eat, including a dessert like the barely sweet rice pudding studded with chunks of fresh coconut. (401 N Central Expwy. Suite 300, Richardson, 231-5556; 2620 Walnut Hill Lane, 350-6466. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5: 30-10. Fri & Sat 5 30-10: 30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11: 30-2: 30. All credit cards. $-$$)
Queen of Sheba. Ethiopian food is one of the most difficult of the foreign cuisines to become accustomed to. Maybe if s because everything is served on a huge platter of injera, the flat bread with a texture of sliced sponge rubber that is plate, fork and staff of life to the Ethiopians. On it come spicy stews such as doro wott (chicken and eggs m a red sauce), accompanied by greens and yogurt. Queen of Sheba is a good place for the adventurous to try it all out, since the atmosphere is pleasant and the prices are very low (For the less adventurous, Queen of Sheba also has a few Italian dishes. ) (3527 McKinney. 521-0491. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-midnight MC. V. AE, DC. $)
Sahib. Once the finest Indian restaurant m town and still the handsomest. Sahib now offers more disappointments than successes from the kitchen. The menu is filled with new and interesting-sounding dishes, and a few of them are worth trying, such as the shrimp Bhu-jana with lots of herbs and bits of onion and peppers, and the chicken Noorani in a curiously bright pink sauce. But all the typical appetizers like the samosas (vegetable fritters) and pakoras (dough filled with meat and potatoes) now have a decidedly off taste, and the Indian bread called pun is greasy and heavy. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11: 30-2: 30: dinner Mon-Thur & Sun5: 30-10, Fri & Sat 5: 30-11; Sun brunch: 11: 30-3. All credit cards. $$$)
Tanjore. During the week, you can find good North Indian food here (the kitchen can be slow to bring it out, but it’s worth wailing for) We are fond of the chicken tanjore (a version of chicken tandoori, but not made in the clay oven typical for that dish) and the cubes of fried homemade cheese (with something of the texture of tofu) cooked in a spicy spinach sauce. These are standard items in Indian restaurants in America, but at lunch on weekends you can get something really unusual here: dishes from South India. There are nee cakes called idli and little savory fried donuts, curried lentils and fresh coconut chutney. The dish most likely to appeal to Americans is the masala dosa, a thin crêpe of fermented dough cooked crisp and folded around a filling of curried potatoes. One of the nicest things about the South Indian dishes is that they are cheap enough to justify trying on an experimental basis. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 5409 Beltline Rd. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30, dinner: daily: 6-10: brunch. Sal S Sun 11: 30-3. All credit cards. $-$$.)
ITALIAN
Adriano’s. This fashionable pizzeria m the Quadrangle, with its exposed metalwork and warehouse-style ceiling, hides nothing-including its bad service. One waiter (or the whole place? The customers deserve better. But Gamberetti, a combination of shrimp, shallots and chives, is a welcome departure from the typical pizza, heavy on the cheese and just the right size The even bolder Salome, of capers, onions and goat cheese, was sharp and satisfying The fettuc-cine Lumache, stuffed with escargots and bathed in white wine, is also a good choice. (The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. Suite 170. 871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5: 30-10: 30. Fri & Sat 5: 30 pm-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE. $$)
Calé Italia. As usual, we were stuffed when we left this tiny restaurant tucked away on Maple Avenue across the street from Elliot s Hardware. The one thing we love about Café Italia is that there is no skimping on the garlic here- particularly on the crispy garlic bread. We were impressed with the creamy fettuccine Alfredo sauce and the spicy linguine with white clam sauce. The special of the day was chicken romano, baked in light, buttery bread crumbs and covered with a creamy romano cheese sauce. Pasta and vegetables on the side weren’t especially memorable, and neither were the desserts. The cappuccino pie was bland, and the strawberries in whipped cream were limp- as though they’d been sliced too soon. Despite the shortcomings, you can’t beat the place for its reasonable prices and excellent service. (5000 Maple. 521-0700. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5: 30-10, Fri & Sat 530-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Ciao!. This shrine to unusual pizzas sits on one of the gaudiest stretches of Cedar Springs – the view out the glass front is as entertaining as any floor show. Inside, the food is good, if not overwhelming The famous spinach pizza, for instance, we found more odd than appealing; the combination of mounds of chopped greens with underdone strips of Italian bacon was not helped by a less than perfectly crisp crust The mozzarella (advertised as fresh) on a plainer pizza was rather rubbery. We had no complaints about an al dente order of pasta topped with a pesto sauce with plenty of basil and garlic, but a daily special of a sautéed chicken breast was boring. (3921 B Cedar Springs 521-0110. Mon-Sat 11: 30am-midnigh(. Sun3pm-mtdmght. MC, V. AE. $$)
Chianti. This looks like just another neighborhood Italian restaurant, and not a very prepossessing one at that, but the food makes it worth coming from farther than just around the block. The style is mostly Northern Italian, and if the cooking doesn’t have a great deal of subtlety it is very tasty indeed. Among the appetizers the scampi napoleone are shrimp in a pungent garlic and brandy sauce The linguine alia puttanesca features al dente noodles and a robust sauce of tomatoes, olives, capers and anchovies, A fillet of ocean perch (a daily special) had a perfect texture and was topped with a suitably light tomato sauce. The light, crusty Italian bread has a toasty outside, and the dessert gelati (in flavors like white chocolate chip and zuppa inglese) are from a good supplier (9526 Webb Chapel Road. 350- 7456. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Sun-Thur 5: 30-10, Fri & Sat 5: 30-10: 30. MC, V. $$)
La Bella. This cozy neighborhood restaurant has a lot of potential. We say that because the entrées – except for veal dishes-are superb, but the soup (with canned veggies) and salad (of while iceberg lettuce} are dismal in comparison. We tried the linguine with white clam sauce, the fresh red snapper and a spicy sautéed chicken that was the special of the evening. Each was extremely fresh, and there was no skimping on the garlic and fresh spices. Our waiter was especially attentive, and he convinced us to try the cappuccino pie for dessert. Prices are reasonable, but your dinner could get expensive it you succumb to the tempting list of wines. (6757 Arapaho, Suite 721. 991-2828. Mon-Fri 11-11. Sat 4 pm-11 pm, Sun noon-10 Ait credit cards. $$)
Mario’s. Deep red walls and cases of Venetian glass set the tone- if this is ltalian food, it is internationalized and glamorized Italian food. Our appetizers showed the ambivalent nature of the place. The highly seasoned cannelloni with a slightly spicy fresh tomato sauce was countered by a dish of shrimp, sweetbreads and mushrooms in a sadly tough puff pastry. Salads followed the pattern one Frenchified one of bitter endive and rather woebegone watercress, balanced against a lettuce leaf filled with chunks of roasted peppers, cucumber and tomato with strong-lasting fresh basil. The tournedos Mario was tastily topped with a very French périgourdine sauce. The veal with shrimp was one of the best versions of scaltopini served in Dallas lately-the meal tender and while, the sauce thickened with minced shallots. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10: 30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm, All credit cards. $$$)
Pietro’s. The owners have added an enclosed porch and made some other decorative changes since our last visit, but even with the extra seating, there’s always a wait on the weekends We sampled Iinguine with clam sauce, which was just right – not too fishy and not too heavy on the sauce – and one of the chefs suggestions, chicken cacciatora. tender baked chicken with fresh tomatoes, zucchini, mushrooms and green peppers in a wine sauce with a side order of spaghetti that was pretty close to Chef Boyardee quality. We also tried a chocolate sundae with Pietro’s homemade chocolate sauce (rich and satisfying) and real Italian cheesecake. The waitress warned us that real Italian cheesecake is made with ricotta cheese, so it’s not very sweet, and she was right. (5722 Richmond. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5-10: 30, Fri & Sat 5-11: 30 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon MC. V. $$)
Pizzeria Uno. The best things about this place for Chicago-style deep-dish pizzas are the pies themselves: buttery crusted, with inch-deep heaps of sausages, cheeses and vegetables. Some come with little or no tomato sauce-the seafood pizza uses lots of garlic for flavor instead. There are some pretty good side dishes, but the best accompaniments are libations from the bar that forms the heart of the restaurant The main drawbacks at Pizzeria Uno are the noise and the service, which we have found to be slow and spacey even at off hours, let alone at mealtimes, when the place is usually packed. (4002 Belt Une. Addison. 991-8181. Mon & Tue 11-10: 30. Wed & Thur 11 am-11: 30 pm, Fri & Sat noon-12: 30, Sun noon-10: 30. MC, V, AE. $$)
Ristorante Savino. For consistency and authenticity, this is probably Dallas finest Italian restaurant Our latest visit gave us opportunities to taste a splendid version of vitello tuna (cold, thin slices of braised veal topped with a sauce flavored with tuna and lemon and crowned with capers). The crochette -small croquettes made of fried stuffed crêpes-were less exciting, but both pasta courses were cooked magnificently: cavatelli (pasta shells in a sauce strongly flavored with tomato, garlic and exotic cheese) and angel hair pasta in a lobster sauce. Our meat dishes-delicate scallops of veal m a wild mushroom sauce and large shrimp in a golden sauce smelling of saffron-were exemplary. Desserts have improved steadily as Ristorante Savino has matured; the profiteroles are worth every calorie. (2929 N Henderson 826-7804. Sun-Thur 6-10: 30. Fri & Sat 5: 30- 11 pm All credit cards. $$$)
Ristorante Vincenzo. When this Italian restaurant opened last fall, it was heralded as the jewel in the crown of a rejuvenated Quadrangle Despite the facts thai the crown remains a ruin-in-restoration and the jewel is at limes unpolished, Ristorante Vincenzo endures. If we have caveats, they apply only to the meal’s opening rounds: The antipasto is perfunctory, the minestrone is rather bland, the Caesar salad is short on fanfare and long on croutons. An order of fried cheese, however, was quite spectacular -served in an abundant mound, half sauced with tomato, the other in a lemon caper concoction. Our entrées were outstanding-a perfectly charred veal steak, which was thick and properly juicy, and scamp aligned like a brochette with moist morsels of onion and green pepper. Vegetables del giorno – a deep-fried cauliflower and lender julienne strips of zucchini -were perfect accompaniments. Equally impressive were the authentic cannoli and a rich and exuberant cappuccino pie. (The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. Suite 165. 871-8898. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2; dinner; Mon-Thur 5: 30-10. Fri & Sal 5: 30-11. Closed Sun All credit cards. $$$)
Sfizi. This West End Italian place has really picked up steam since our last visit, when it was almost empty We even had an unexpected 20-mmute ?ait for our table. The menu is brief, but supplemented by a chalkboard specials menu, which the waiter brings to your table and explains thoroughly. The fried calamari was a pleasant appetizer but the shrimp champignon was perhaps a little too ambitious For our entrées, the chicken marsala was delicious as was the eggplant. The tortellin was also tasty but not served hot enough. The cannoli made an adequate dessert. The minor deficiencies m the kitchen were compensated for by the efficient and pleasant service; if you like concrete-floor-and-neon-light ambience, you should have a pleasant experience at Sim. (1718 Market 698-9390. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-2am, Sat5pm-2am, Sun5-11pm All credit cards. $$)
JAPANESE/KOREAN
Korea House. As always, we were welcomed hospitably by the Korean ladies who run this place. This time we skipped the appetizers and went right to a selection o1 main dishes and were rewarded by a satisfying meal. We always enjoy kalbi gui. Korean barbecued ribs that are more like the Mexican version, agujas, than their American counterpart. Tiny shrimp stir-tried with a myriad of vegetables and little chunks of tried Chicken coated with a spicy sauce were complemented by the delightful Korean cold vegetables: vinegary cucumbers, bean sprouts touched with sesame and. of course, kimchee. the Korean five-alarm spiced cabbage, (Promenade Center. Coit at Bel! Line. Suite 610. Richardson 231-1379. Sun-Thur 11 am-10: 30pm. Fri &Sal 11. 30am-1030pm. MC. V. AE, $$)
Mr. Sushi. Now that it has expanded in size. Mr Sushi is more than ever Dallas’ most enjoyable Japanese restaurant. If you’ve picked up the taste for raw fish – we read somewhere that 7 percent of Americans have taken the plunge, and our four-year-old is one of them-the sushi bar enables you to pick and choose among the juiciest morsels Yellowfin tuna is a consistent winner, and this time we found an interesting concoction of scallops in a mayonnaise-like dressing wrapped up in seaweed. If you prefer to sit at a table, the service is extremely polite You can choose among appetizers like kara age chicken (plump chunks deep-fried- McNuggets were never like this) or lofu steak (fried bean curd sitting atop a gingery sauce). The sukiyaki. though, we found disappointing. (The Quorum 4860 Belt Line. Addison 385-0168 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5 30-10 30. Fri & Sat 5 30-11. Sun 5: 30-10. AH credit cards. $$)
Shogun. This handsome-looking little Japanese inn never seems to quite live up to the promise of its gleaming white walls and polished woodwork. We are not fond of the combination dinners that dominate the menu, especially when a decent version of chicken teriyaki has to follow a gummy rendition of shrimp lem-pura. Because the large platter of sushi and sashimi did not seem optimally fresh and cold, the best thing we tried on our most recent visit was the tonkatsu – the Japanese fried pork cutlet. Our Japanese waitress was attentive enough, but glum. (5738 Cedar Springs near Inwood. 351-2281 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10 30, Fri & Sal 5: 30-11. Sun 5-10: 30. All credit cards $$)
MEXICAN
Alaman’s. This is a compietely different place, both m looks and m menu, from ils first incarnation as a branch of Raphael’s some years back. Now it is very individualistic: neither authentically Mexican, for the most part, nor conventionally Tex-Mex. You might call it an American response to Mexican cuisine It is also wildly uneven from dish to dish. The version of ceviche is excellent, and the chicken mole is the best version we have had in a restaurant in the United Stales-the sauce was obviously homemade and marvelously complex, despite the ring of pineapple on top. But we onions and peppers. We also liked the “pipes’’ (tiny flautas tilled with shrimp). The chicken breast in a mole sauce, though, was a tad disappointing-the sauce lacked the complexity and richness that this Mexican classic can have. (3810 Congress. 521-0721 Mon-Thur 11: 30 am-10: 30 pm. Fri & Sat 11: 30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE, $$)
Chito’s. If you are looking for authentic Tex-Mex m a down-to earth setting and Herrera has a line down the block, you might drive on down the street to Chito’s. This place may actually be more authentic-it doesn’t feel so self-consciously picturesque, and you will probably encounter a larger percentage of Mexican clientele The standard Tex-Mex items are well done-tacos and enchiladas are particularly appealing. The menu doesn’t go in for many newfangled fancy items, either, even the now standard fajitas are strictly down-home The meat is grilled instead of charcoal-broiled, it hasn’t been marinated to death and it doesn’t come on a sizzling platter. But the dish, like the restaurant that serves it. is pleasant in its unassuming way. (4447 Maple. 526-9027; 3437 Walnut Hill, 351 -9554. Sun- Tue & Thur 9 am-9 pm. Fri & Sat 9 am-3 am Closed Wed. at Maple location; Tue-Sun9am-Wpm Closed Mon. at Walnut Hill location. MC, V $)
D REVISITS
El Gallito. Our recent visits here have left us with more vivid impressions of decor and service than food. We recommend sitting in the little rain forest-patio out back: the pianist inside is talented, but miked way loo loud for such an intimate room On the patio, you could easily be in Cancun – until the meal arrives Then you could be at any of a hundred uninspiring Tex-Mexenes. We chose seafood specialties and basic Mexican entrées, and found them all just. okay As a measure of the meal’s ordinariness, the two edible things that stood out were the whole apples served with each meal (a Mexican Oktoberfest?) and the fortune cookies that topped off the evening. (4202 Ross 826-6681. Mon-Thur 11: 30 am-midnight, Fri 11: 30 am-3 am. Satnoon-3 am. Sun 4 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE $-$$)
Garza Blanca. You may recognize the name as that of a famous resort in Puerto Vallarta. The ceviche is spectacularly fresh and tasty, with a strong taste of lime. olive oil and especially capers. The chiles rellenos are a good, light-textured version, but perhaps the best choices for main dishes here are the charcoal grilled specialties, which are oddly identified by the sounds that the animals being served made when they were alive (beef is Moo, frog’s legs Ribbet Ribbet-combi-nation dinners make a whole barnyard of sounds). The meats are deliciously seasoned with vinegar, oil and oregano before cooking, and the butterfly pork chop and the fajita steak are particularly tender and moist. The mango ice cream topped with perfectly ripe slices of fresh mangos is an exciting dessert, with Mexican anise and cinnamon cookies served on the side. Return visits have sadly revealed that service declines and noise abounds on a busy evening here. (2508 Maple. 871-0530. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: 30; dinner: Mon-Thur 4: 30-10, Fri 4: 30-11. Sat 11-11 Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)
Genaro’s. This cool, tropical oasis would be great-for people-watching, sipping margaritas, dancing on Sunday nights- even if no food were available But it is, and most of it’s quite reliable. On recent visits we’ve tried ceviche, seafood nachos, flautas, the excellent torta del mar and basic Tex-Mex. and come away smiling every time. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11 am-10: 30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)
Javier’s. This is Yankee Mexican food: pricey, prettier than a combination plate, peculiar to natives weaned on crispy tacos. Things like red snapper mojo de ajo (succulent fillets dripping with buttery garlic, lime juice and while wine) and filete pimienta (mouth-watering tenderloin in a piquant black pepper sauce) dont crop onions and peppers. We also liked the “pipes’’ (tiny flautas tilled with shrimp). The chicken breast in a mole sauce, though, was a tad disappointing-the sauce lacked the complexity and richness that this Mexican classic can have. (3810 Congress. 521-0721 Mon-Thur 11: 30 am-10: 30 pm. Fri & Sat 11: 30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE, $$)
Chito’s. If you are looking for authentic Tex-Mex m a down-to earth setting and Herrera has a line down the block, you might drive on down the street to Chito’s. This place may actually be more authentic-it doesn’t feel so self-consciously picturesque, and you will probably encounter a larger percentage of Mexican clientele The standard Tex-Mex items are well done-tacos and enchiladas are particularly appealing. The menu doesn’t go in for many newfangled fancy items, either, even the now standard fajitas are strictly down-home The meat is grilled instead of charcoal-broiled, it hasn’t been marinated to death and it doesn’t come on a sizzling platter. But the dish, like the restaurant that serves it. is pleasant in its unassuming way. (4447 Maple. 526-9027; 3437 Walnut Hill, 351 -9554. Sun- Tue & Thur 9 am-9 pm. Fri & Sat 9 am-3 am Closed Wed. at Maple location; Tue-Sun9am-Wpm Closed Mon. at Walnut Hill location. MC, V $)
D REVISITS
El Gallito. Our recent visits here have left us with more vivid impressions of decor and service than food. We recommend sitting in the little rain forest-patio out back: the pianist inside is talented, but miked way loo loud for such an intimate room On the patio, you could easily be in Cancun – until the meal arrives Then you could be at any of a hundred uninspiring Tex-Mexenes. We chose seafood specialties and basic Mexican entrées, and found them all just. okay As a measure of the meal’s ordinariness, the two edible things that stood out were the whole apples served with each meal (a Mexican Oktoberfest?) and the fortune cookies that topped off the evening. (4202 Ross 826-6681. Mon-Thur 11: 30 am-midnight, Fri 11: 30 am-3 am. Satnoon-3 am. Sun 4 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE $-$$)
Garza Blanca. You may recognize the name as that of a famous resort in Puerto Vallarta. The ceviche is spectacularly fresh and tasty, with a strong taste of lime. olive oil and especially capers. The chiles rellenos are a good, light-textured version, but perhaps the best choices for main dishes here are the charcoal grilled specialties, which are oddly identified by the sounds that the animals being served made when they were alive (beef is Moo, frog’s legs Ribbet Ribbet-combi-nation dinners make a whole barnyard of sounds). The meats are deliciously seasoned with vinegar, oil and oregano before cooking, and the butterfly pork chop and the fajita steak are particularly tender and moist. The mango ice cream topped with perfectly ripe slices of fresh mangos is an exciting dessert, with Mexican anise and cinnamon cookies served on the side. Return visits have sadly revealed that service declines and noise abounds on a busy evening here. (2508 Maple. 871-0530. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: 30; dinner: Mon-Thur 4: 30-10, Fri 4: 30-11. Sat 11-11 Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)
Genaro’s. This cool, tropical oasis would be great-for people-watching, sipping margaritas, dancing on Sunday nights- even if no food were available But it is, and most of it’s quite reliable. On recent visits we’ve tried ceviche, seafood nachos, flautas, the excellent torta del mar and basic Tex-Mex. and come away smiling every time. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Sun-Thur 11 am-10: 30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)
Javier’s. This is Yankee Mexican food: pricey, prettier than a combination plate, peculiar to natives weaned on crispy tacos. Things like red snapper mojo de ajo (succulent fillets dripping with buttery garlic, lime juice and while wine) and filete pimienta (mouth-watering tenderloin in a piquant black pepper sauce) dont crop up too often at Rosita’s. But we are blessed thai they do appear with consistency at Javier’s, surely one of the most enjoyable restaurants in Dallas Oh. and dont miss the appetizer of cheese panela (grilled Monterrey Jack with Mexican sausage) (lamed a tavola, or the chocolate mousse faced with Tia Mafia and walnuts. (4912Cole. 521-4311. Sun-Thur530-10: 30pm, Fri & Sat 5: 30-11 30 pm. All credit cards $$$)
La Botica. The mishmash of Dallasites who have found La Botica (it’s nearly hidden on Haskell Avenue about a mile east of Central) must like it for the same reasons we do: It’s casual, fairly quiet and steeped in family-run friendliness. The food – Mexican staples with a hefty addition of beef dishes-is fine but rarely exciting. Particularly good, the tangy enchiladas verdes, the simple tacos and the spicy chicken soup. Our otherwise happy visits met with two disappointments: the ho-hum and smallish carne asada and La Botica’s tendency to be Out of things we want to order (1900 N Haskell. 824-2005. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon MC, V. AE, $$)
La Casita. Two sisters from Mexico and their mother opened a place on Lowest Greenville to serve real Mexican home cooking. The dishes they serve are the best, most comforting versions we have had in Dallas-made with lots of tender, loving care, too The cooking is consistently excellent at La Casita, though it’s not exactly consistent. We suspect what you get depends on which of the three ladies has kitchen duty that day. The retried beans are marvels- but one day they are thick and rich with the flavor of pork and another day they zing with a sharp flavor of pickled jalapenos. You cant find a better beef-and-cheese enchilada than here, the tamales are homemade and flavorful; the crisp tacos are filled with an appealing picadillo that includes tiny pieces of vegetable. The chiles rellenos have a perfect filling and a light, puffy breading that blend into a heavenly dish. (1908 Greenville. 821-8151. Mon. Wed. Thur 9 am-midnight, Fri-Sun 9 am-3 am Closed Tue No credit cards $)
D REVISITS
Pepe’s. Right next door to the Routh Street Café (Dallas’ trendiest eatery) sits this unpretentious Mexican spot. Pepe’s probably does old-fashioned Tex-Mex as well as any place in Dallas, The beef tacos, for instance, come m a light, fresh-tasting shell. Enchiladas are dependable, too. Carne asada was made from tender beef, chiles rellenos from authentic poblano peppers (though the filling proved to be unexciting). (3011 Routh 871-9445 Mon-Fri 11 am-2: 30pm & 5: 30-10pm. Sat 1030 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards $)
Rosita’s. Every neighborhood ought to have ils Rosita’s-but in Dallas you mostly have to go out to Mexican-American neighborhoods to find good, solid Tex-Mex (Don’t get the wrong idea, Rosita’s; we don’t want you to establish any branches elsewhere That has been the downfall of too many wonderful Dallas sources of prime enchiladas. ) Here you can get good nachos and tacos and even chiles rellenos. The fajitas were cooked to burned-tasting crisps on the sizzling platter on which they arrived, but the delightful sopapillas and flan afterwards made up for them. (4906 Maple. 521-4741; 5705 Southwest Green Oaks. Arlington 572-1009. Mon-Tnur 7am-10pm. Fri 7am-11 pm. Sat 9 am-11 pm. Sun 9 am-10 pm at Maple location, daily 7 am-10 pm at Arlington location. MC. V. AE. $)
Via Real. Dramatic abstract pictures dominate the walls, and even the menus are original handcrafted works by the same artists. The contents of the menu are as fresh as the look of the place-you might call the concept New Wave Mexican, with a hint of Continental Spanish influence The appetizers include such novelties as crêpa de salmone (thin slices of smoked salmon enfolded in crepes and served dry except for a garnish of pico de gallo) and rellenos de pescado (long cylinders of fish mousse studded with salmon and surrounded by a rich sauce) Main courses at Via Real also tilt toward the seafood end, with skewered scallops and swordfish among the specialties. We found the scallop kebabs dominated too strongly by the taste of the bacon that enwrapped it, but the swordfish was firm-fleshed and tasty. (Towne North Centre, 3591 N Bell Line at Northgate. Irving. 255-0064. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-5: dinner Sun- Thur 5-10: 30. Fri-Sat 5-11: 30, Sun 11 am-11: 30pm MC, V, AE. $$)
SEAFOOD
D REVISITS
D Atlantic Cafe. The cooking here remained as fine as ever on our last visit, but there were a couple of problems a restaurant this good shouldn’t tolerate. Mussels, beautifully presented m a flavorful broth, were overlarge and strong lasting. The halibut steak couldn’t have been more perfectly grilled – it had a crisp surface and meltingly tender flesh- but it smelled faintly of ammonia, signifying to us that it had passed the peak of freshness Other parts of the meal were perfect shrimp and scallop ceviche, tomato and fresh mozzarella salad, a sautéed combination of shellfish, crème brulée. We never find the waiters exactly warm and friendly here, but they are certainly efficient. (4546 McKinney a! Knox. 559-4441. Lunch- Mon-Fri & Sun 11-2: 30. dinner- Sun-Thun; 5: 30-10: 30. Fri & Sat 5: 30- 11. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)}
Aw Shucks. For many good reasons, this disarming-ly casual shuckery has become one of the most popular Lower Greenville dining spots Your search for the perfect catfish may end here-and nobody m Dallas fills a basket with fish for a cheaper price. The same cannot be said of the skimpy shrimp and oyster combo, but skip it and “pick up a dozen”-shucksese for a dozen plump oysters on the half shell. Combine with a big bowl of sure-’nuff gumbo, and welcome to New Orleans West (3601 Greenville. 821 -9449: 4535 Maple. 522-4498 Mon- Thur 11: 30 am-11 pm. Fri & Sat 11: 30 am-11: 45 pm. Sun noon-10 pm at Greenville location: Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11: 45. Sun noon-10 pm at Maple location No credit cards $)
Best Pacific. This new restaurant wouldn’t attract much notice if it were on McKinney Avenue, but in northwest Garland, it’s enough of a sensation that it has a lot of business on weekends. The proprietor, branching out from a small Chinese takeout place in Piano, has created an unassuming neighborhood restaurant devoted mostly to seafood. Although the recipes aren’t Oriental, there are some benefits from the Asian heritage, such as the indisputable freshness of most of the foodstuffs, including even some barely cooked green beans accompanying our entrées. The two standouts among the entrées we sampled were the sautéed scallops-brown and slightly crunchy on top. but lender and juicy within-and the crisp, cornmeal-coated fillets of catfish, which only needed a bit of salt. (4750 N Jupiter at Arapaho. Garland 530-1574. Mon-Fri 11 am-2: 30 pm & 5-10 pm. Sat & Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards, personal checks accepted. $$)
Café Margaux. Tom Agnew’s new restaurant has only a lew tables and very simple decor limited to wine posters on the wall, but the food is some of the best in town. The short menu always has some of the basic Louisiana favorites The gumbo is dark and rich-tasting, which means that the roux is properly made. The crayfish étouffée {available as an appetizer or a main course) has plenty of bite. All the other versions of blackened redfish in town lade from the memory in the presence of this definitive one-and the redfish Margaux is a marvelously crunchy fried fillet floating on a delicate butter sauce The bread pudding m a whiskey sauce is subtle- not too much bourbon, not too sweet. The sweet potato pie, on the other hand, is very sweet and utterly captivating. (4424 Lovers Lane. 739-0886. Lunch Mon-Sat 11: 30-2: 30: dinner Mon-Sat6-t0. MC. V. $-$$)
D Café Pacific. Glossy but relaxed, this place epitomizes the often-deceptive Highland Park mystique for us. Except for a crisp Caesar salad (blessedly served for one), all our preliminaries were disappointing. Our appetizer portion of pasta with salmon suffered from the strong taste of !he fish, the tortilla soup was too thick and tomatoey and the smoked chicken salad-though bounteous with meaty chunks of chicken and perfect walnut halves-didn’t really meld into a unified dish But the main dishes included a good version of the ubiquitous blackened redfish and the splendid Seafood Pacific (crab, scallops and shrimp in a creamy sauce atop puff pastry) proved again one of the richest concoctions in town. Lovely delays like a yellow nee that really tasted of saffron, a luxurious dessert of chocolate satin pie and professional service all restored our faith in the virtues of Cafe Pacific. (Highland Park Village. Preston at Mockingbird. Suite 24. 526-1170-Lunch: Mon-Sat 11: 30-2: 30, Sun 10: 30-2: 30: dinner: Sun- Thur530-10 30. Fri & Sat 5: 30-11. MC. V, AE. $$$)
Devon Seafood Grill. This is another out-of-state seafood chain trying to form a bridgehead in Texas -maybe the Bennigan’s of the sea (if only the corporate headquarters weren’t in Kansas City) The food is so wildly unpredictable that it is hard to recommend the place. Appetizers, from our experience may be the best bet In addition to oysters on the half shell, there are super Cajun frog legs fried and accompanied by a spicy sauce), 1nzzled scallops, and even a better-than-usual shrimp cocktail for those who don’t want to fool with peeling their own. Devon does know how to broil seafood, and there are enough unusual choices like wolffish to encourage exploration But the shellfish cioppino, which had plenty o1 firm-textured fish and scallops and mussels, had a most unpleasant taste of unreduced wine In the broth. (14866 Montfort Drive. 991-0533. Lunch: Mon-Thur 11: 30-2: 30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5: 30-11. Fri & Sat 5: 30-11. 30. Sun 5: 30-10: Sun brunch: 10: 30-3. All credit cards. $$-$$$)
Joseph’s. On our last visit to this cozy little restaurant on McKinney, we enjoyed a truly relaxing meal-a courtly, but not hovering waiter and a laid-back, almost seaside-like atmosphere close to downtown Dallas. Our appetizers, stuffed mushrooms and shrimp bisque, were delicious. The shrimp du chef, shrimp in a cream sauce, was light yet satisfying, and the scallops m yet another cream sauce were fresh and very good, but a little too dense. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: 30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sal 6-11. AH credit cards. $$$)
Li’l Palm. This new Addison eatery, though basically Continental in its menu, is run by a family from Hawaii and is trying to evoke a South Pacific milieu. The lum-pia (Philippine eggrolls. a mark of the restaurant’s Asian-Pacific leanings) were large and filled with lots of beef, shrimp and sprouts; the frying had. however, contributed something of a stale taste, and the accompanying sauce was very sweet Blackened redfish was dry and fishy-tasting, and mesquite-broiled halibut was undistinguished. Desserts, except for a fine chocolate layer cake, were disappointing too. (14849 Inwood, Addison. 788-1223. Lunch Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30: dinner: Mon-Thur 5: 30-10. Fri-Sat 5: 30-10: 30, Sun 5: 30-9: 30 Ail credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Shucker’s. When this outpost of an Addison seafood restaurant first opened some months ago, we were unimpressed. But a new staff has transformed it into one of the better mid-priced seafood houses in town Fried things (the specialty of the Addison location) are still good, but the fancier dishes like the combination hot hors d’oeuvres (with two kinds of baked oysters, calamari and sautéed prawns) can be even better. Nightly specials include unusual fish like silver salmon in rich, buttery sauces. Desserts are defintely one of the attractions here, especially the unlikely sounding- but fabulous-chocolate bread pudding. (4620 McKinney. 522-7320. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri&Sat 11-midnight. Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards $$-$$$)
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
La Pagode. This handsome, homey little place is our favorite for Vietnamese food in Dallas. The Imperial rolls and the Vietnamese-style crêpe (really a paper-thin omelette stuffed with sprouts and shrimp) are both wonderful ways to start a meal here. The hot pot-a rich broth brimming with morsels of meat, seafood and vegetables-is a good choice for a main dish for a small crowd. The charbroiled beef strips come with lettuce leaves and fresh herbs tor making Southeast Asian tacos. (4302 Bryan 821-4542. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sal 11-11. Sun noon-10 pm. MC. V. DC, CB. $-$$)
D REVISITS
Siam Orchid. While the food may not live up to the memories of that served by the Siam (the restaurant that formerly occupied this space), the Siam Orchid is still perhaps the best Thai restaurant in town On our most recent visit, the spring rolls were wonderfully crunchy and tasty, and both soups (chicken with rice and shrimp m a hot-and-sour broth flavored with lemongrass) were enormously satisfying. Crunchy fish fillets swam in a red curry sauce decorated with fresh hot peppers. On the down side, the pork satay was dry and the charcoal-grilled beef in the salad with fresh mint lacked flavor But since most of the food is excellent and the service kind and helpful, we think it is worth braving the sleazy neighborhood for a meal here. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631 -6505 Mon-Fri 11 am-2: 30pm& 5-10: 30 pm, Sat & Sun 5-10: 30 pm. All credit cards $$)
Siam Rose. It would be nice to report that the food at Siam Rose is as much a step up for Thai restaurants in Dallas as the ambience is, but sadly, the cooking is only about average. There are some interesting novelties: The pieces of chicken cooked in cornhusks are a kind of masa-less Thai tamale, and the duck in a red wine sauce is a subtle mixture of slightly sweet and salty tastes We liked the chicken satay and beef salad among the appetizers, the shrimp cooked with lots of garlic and black pepper and the perennial Siamese favorite pud thai (noodles in a tangy sauce with shrimp and ground peanuts) But a number of standard Thai dishes can be under par here, like the spring rolls and the fishy-tasting deep-fried softshell crabs. (5290 Belf Line, Suite 142 991-9881. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3. dinner daily 5-11. MC. V. AE. $$)
SOUTHERN
Celebration. What’s to celebrate? Plenty. Thick, zes-ty slabs of meat loaf, succulent baked chicken and other Southern staples, supported by crunchy salads and a rotating cast of home-style vegetables. Best of all, it’s an all-you-can-eat affair at surprisingly modest prices. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681 Lunch; Mon-Fri 11 -2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5: 30-10. Fri & Sat 5: 30-11. Sun 5-10. All credit cards $$)
Dick’s Last Resort. You can have more fun in this bar-restaurant than just about anyplace else in the West End historical district. There’s sawdust on the floor. New Orleans-style bands, singers and other musicians performing on stage and a general air of camaraderie all over. For a place that is basically a bar, Dick’s Last Resort serves amazingly good food. The beef ribs are huge and meaty, a bit sweet. The spit-turned barbecue chicken is sensational, and the catfish is even better -crunchy and juicy (Ross at Record 747-0001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30: dinner: Mon-Wed5: 30-10: 30. Thur & Sun 5-11. Fri & Sat 5-midnight. MC, V. AE. DC. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. We don’t know why the Dallas Parkway branch of this venerable local institution can’t quite keep up the standards of the original place Perhaps the demand isn’t there – we notice you can seldom get the signature spinach salad with horseradish at the far North Dallas location. And fried chicken, usually definitive on Knox, is often soggy and fasteless uptown. But even at the lesser branch, you can come away feeling coddled by Southern hospitality We love to make a meal of such regional delights as chicken and dumplings, collard greens, yams with marshmallows and lemon pie. The German chocolate cake and the delicious pecan pie are also worth the calories. (4611 Cole. 526-3801. Sakowitz Village. 5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8800. Mon-Sat 11: 30 am-2 pm & 5: 30-8 pm at Cole location. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm, Sun 10: 45 am-3 pm at Sakowitz Village location. No credit cards. MC. V. AE for takeout and buffet orders of more than $10. $)
The Mecca. Outside, it’s a two-story house with cars crammed into the parking lot, set in the busiest commercial tract of Harry Mines Inside, it’s a diner of the old school, swamped by folks of every sort – from politicos to truckers. Best noted for its whopping breakfasts, the Mecca also puis a hearty lunch on the table. Chicken-fried steak is a standby, of course, but there are other down-home things such as ham and cabbage Brave the crowds and get there early if you want your choice of vegetables – the greens, carrots and macaroni and cheese go fast. (10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Mon-Fri 5: 30 am-3 pm. Sat 5. 30 am-2 pm. Closed Sun All credit cards. $)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Baskets Eatery. This mecca for informal diners hasn’t been around long, but it’s already opening several branches. You order al a counter, and your meal comes in-what else?-a basket, but there’s a wider choice than at similar places where you can only get burgers. Here there are shish kebabs and fried chicken as well The chicken we found less greasy than at fast-food empona. but the speed with which it was served, and the lack of just-fried, finger-burning freshness, suggested it had been cooked a while m advance. Our hamburger came with excellent homemade chili on top, but we can’t get used to the idea of paying nearly five bucks for a sandwich. Baskets also has an ice cream bar for those who have room for dessert. (4343 W Northwest Highway. 351-2575; 1603 LBJ Freeway. 484-3681. Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri & Sat 11-11 at Northwest Highway location; Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm at LBJ location. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $}
Hoffbrau. Its tough enough to find a good steak these days, much less one for under 10 bucks. This restaurant, chock full of things Texana. is living proof that not everyone these days is turning to chicken and fish. No wonder. The specialty here is definitely meat, and judging by the crowds at both lunch and dinner. Hoffbrau’s tasty steaks are no secret. All dinners here include a large salad {with a house dressing), a plate of bread and crackers and pan-fried chunky potato slices. Waitresses clad in T-shirts and blue jeans set an informal atmosphere. Good food, good service and good luck finding a parking place. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Jimanny’s. We’re not sure why they kept the old name-this is essentially a new restaurant, with fresh owners, management and menu. Though you can still get steak here, this is essentially a European brasserie these days (the new proprietors are Belgian). So the steaks come topped with well-prepared sauces like one of cream and pepper and another of mushrooms and brandy. Or the sauces can top the delicious spit-roasted chickens one sees turning on rotisseries. The ideal accompaniment for both is an order of crunchy fried shoestring potatoes (those craving American baked potatoes will be discouraged) Prices for the basics are quite reasonable, but the fancier sauces tote sleep price lags. (2109 W Parker, Piano. 985-1339. Mon-Sat 11: 30 am-midnight. Sat 5 pm-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $-$$)
The Palm. The floors are littered with sawdust, and the decorations consist mainly of doodled caricatures of the famous (and not so famous). So what makes this the playground of the biggest spenders around? The old-pro waiters give the place a certain air, and the food is certainly the sort high rollers go for Steaks are the number one item -our tenderloin was as delicious as it was pricey. Lobsters are another specialty, and luckily this time we found one weighing in at only three and a half pounds. The accompanying potatoes of various kinds are usually tempting (though on one recent occasion we found the wafer-thin fried slices unpleasantly bitter-tasting). Appetizers and desserts are mostly not worth the additional (hefty) expense. At lunch there is a much more reasonably priced menu, but do you really go to the Palm to eat shrimp salad or steak tartare? (701 Ross. 698-0470. Mon-Fri 11: 30am-10: 30pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 5-930 pm All credit cards $$$$)
D Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Don’t be alarmed that Dallas’ premier steakhouse is part of a small New Orleans-based franchise chain – group buying is the only way to be sure of getting beef this good oui of the distributors. And good it is. The rib-eye is our favorite -though the indulgence in so much rich, fatty beef may raise our cholesterol levels for a week. But that’s the difference between prime and choice beef-the fatty marbling that gives the best beef its incomparable flavor. The softball-size tenderloins are a bit less flavorful but very tender. The expense account eaters who come here seem to be mostly meat-and-potatoes people-which is fine, since potatoes are the only side dishes that match the quality of the beef. You can have them fried four different ways, baked, au gratin, lyonnaise, etc. (6940 Green-wile 691-6940. Mon-Fri, 11. 30-11: 30. Sat & Sun 5-11. 30 pm. All credit cards $$$)
LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES
Café Acapulco. Southwest Arlington is booming and so are the local amenities. Even the local eateries smack of the burgeoning affluent environment, which sets the stage tor Café Acapulco, a Mexican café done in smart white stucco arches and cool tiles. The margaritas are potent – always a good sign. And the fa-jitas. recommended by many as the best in Arlington, are smothered in grilled onions, another good sign We was predictable. (829 East Lamar. (817) 265-9174 Lunch- Mon-Fri; 11-2: 30; dinner. Mon-Thur: 5: 30-10 30, Fri & Sat 5: 30-11. All credit cards. $$)
Samurai. It’s surprising how a belt of Saki will improve your outlook on life- and raw fish. Dunked in the mixture of soy sauce and hot mustard, sashimi can be one of the best taste sensations found anywhere. All here, with the mild exception of the Yellowfin, fulfilled our expectations. The large portion of salmon was a little more done than we prefer but the creamy sauce restored the dish’s vitality. The array of tempura vegetables, on the other hand, was somewhat lackluster and bland And the marinated beef was plentiful, but tasted as if it had marinated perhaps a bit too long. But another belt of sometimes unpronounceable) dishes: Kibbi. falafel and shish kebab. (5433 N Macarthur 258-1163. Lunch: Mon-Sat 10-3; dinner: Tue-Thur 5: 30-10. Fri & Sat 5: 30-11 Closed Sun All credit cards. $$)
Piccolo Mondo. We were pleasantly surprised to find gnocchi on the evenings menu at this neighborhood Italian restaurant in Arlington. (Although it’s located in a strip shopping center off congested Collins-Flu) 157-it has the feel of a quiet neighborhood place. ) Gnocchi are light potato dumplings in a creamy sauce that are truly a delicious appetizer. Sated, we followed that great beginning with fettuccine alia putanesca and veal scallopine Virginia. The fettuccine was unusual in its light, tomatoey sauce, but the light and creamy veal was predictable. (829 East Lamar. (817) 265-9174 Lunch- Mon-Fri; 11-2: 30; dinner. Mon-Thur: 5: 30-10 30, Fri & Sat 5: 30-11. All credit cards. $$)
Samurai. It’s surprising how a belt of Saki will improve your outlook on life- and raw fish. Dunked in the mixture of soy sauce and hot mustard, sashimi can be one of the best taste sensations found anywhere. All here, with the mild exception of the Yellowfin, fulfilled our expectations. The large portion of salmon was a little more done than we prefer but the creamy sauce restored the dish’s vitality. The array of tempura vegetables, on the other hand, was somewhat lackluster and bland And the marinated beef was plentiful, but tasted as if it had marinated perhaps a bit too long. But another belt of Saki put everything right. (West Park Row. Arlington. (817) 860-2871 Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner Mon-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
FORT WORTH
Angelo’s. How much of Angelo’s reputation is warranted and how much mere mystique? We found the sliced barbecue and the chopped beef sandwich both lacking in smoky flavor (though tender and lean enough) on our most recent excursion. The extras here have never been worth hooting about, so that didn’t leave much besides the cold beer and the folksy sawdust on the floor to make our visit memorable (2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 3320357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm Closed Sun. No credit cards $)
Autumn Moon. This East Side establishment tries a lit-tle bit too hard to be a great restaurant when it should be content that it’s a very good one With not much ethnic competition on the East Side, Autumn Moon has a pretty clear field, so its hard to understand why. on a recent visit, we were serenaded with the sounds of a live electric guitar player throughout our dinner of crispy soup, spicy chicken and “two taste delicious, ” a daring mix of spicy shrimp and pork. Our meal was, as usual, prompt and satisfying, but as far as we could tell, the music was more akin to Muzak than ballads of the Far East. (5516 Brentwood Stair, (817) 496-6633. Sun-Thur 11 am-10: 30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-11 pm. MC, V, AE. DC. $$)
The Balcony of Ridglea. Overlooking the streaming lights of Camp Bowie is even more pleasurable while you sip a glass of crisp, cold white wine and savor the piquant taste o1 tender Norwegian salmon, steamed and sauced with a light hollandaise. A recent visit to this West Side vanguard yielded both – in ample and satisfying portions. In addition to the redfish. we also sampled a house specialty, double-cut lamb chops, and found them moist and tender, perfectly cooked to order We would have stopped there, but our waiter pleasantly surprised us with a sudden availability of a Grand Marnier soufflé of which we eagerly took advantage it was delicate-albeit loaded with the sweet liqueur-and could have stood alone sans the dollop of whipped cream, which only added to its richness. (6100 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-3719 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2; dinner Mon-Thur6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10: 30. Closed Sun. All major credit cards. $$$)
Benito’s. This funky place on the near South Side offers real Mexican dishes rather than Tex-Mex. A wait of only a few minutes will produce an appetizer of sopes, a cousin of the chalupa with a thicker base of cornmeal dough. Fajitas come with grilled scallions in true Mexican fashion, but they can be a bit tough. Part of the fun here is the homey atmosphere and the courtly service. (1450 W Magnolia (817)332-8633 Sun-Thur 10-10. Fri & Sat 10 am-3 am MC. V. DC. CB. $)
Calhoun Street Oyster Co. The decor and the menu at this place are borrowed from New Orleans, but the service we encountered during a recent visit had an inviting Texas flair. The veggies with dip kept us busy until the main course- lobster tails- arrived. The oysters were so good you could easily make a full meal out of them, and the waiter who customizes the sauce at your table knows how to please customers’ palates The night we visited, the amaretto cheesecake was made more tasty by the addition of chocolate swirls. If you’re not set on oysters – the house specialty – choose from the selections on the blackboard, where fresh seafood items vary daily. (210 E Eighth at Calhoun (817) 332-5932. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-9: 30 pm. MC. V, AE. $$)
The Carriage House. Leisurely service is the byword here. Nothing is rushed, and given the ambition of the new menu, you need the lime to carefully peruse the bountiful offerings of steak, seafood and veal We could have made an entire meal of the fresh, perfectly seasoned paté maison Our grilled swordfish was taken from the flames not a moment too soon, but the large tenderloin suffered under a suffocafing blanket of peppercorns. Despite competition, the Old Guard Carriage House remains one of the most popular places in Fort Worth-and by our observations, it is aging as gracefully as its clientele. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch- Mon-Fri 11: 30-2. dinner Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. MC, V. AE. $$$)
City Park Cafe. When was the last time you went to a restaurant and found the food even belter than you remembered and the prices lower? If it’s been as long for you as it has been for us, then you haven’t stopped by the City Park Cafe, that quaint little strip restaurant in the TCU district, lately. We’re making a resolution not to let so much time slip by from now on We tried a lender veal marsala in a brown sauce that was different from what we had expected but nonetheless a great choice and a plate of seafood fettuccine that was as good as we’ve had in many more expensive places City Park Cafe is a jewel of a neighborhood restaurant. (2418 Forest Park Bivd. (817)921-4567. Lunch: daily 11-3: dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5-9: Sun brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE: personal checks accepted $$)
El Rancho Grande. Our high opinion of this North Side establishment was tarnished a bit during our last visit. First, we were kept wailing for more than 20 minutes before our drink order was even taken, despite a bevy of waitresses hovering over nearby tables. Then we tried to console ourselves with the house special margarita (a heavy portion of gold tequila and other liqueurs), but the sleep price tag drowned our somewhat rejuvenated spirits. Despite these disappointments, the beef fajitas and chicken enchiladas drenched in sour cream were still in our good graces, and the light-as-a-feather nacho chips are still our favorites. (1400 N Mam. (817)624-9206. Mon-Thur 11 am-9: 30pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10: 30 pm Closed Sun. Ail credit cards. $$)
D Escape. Closing shop after a successful run at the Fori Worth dining scene because of neighborhood zoning problems, Escape owners remained undaunted and moved -100 feet away into a new office building (that the owners built). The same fixed-price menu ($25) is served as before, but several offerings are now offered à la carte for those who are intimidated by seven courses. Fortunately, we were not dainty eaters and welcomed each and every course. (Not only did we find the fixed-price menu more economical, it allowed us to sample selections from the entire mem i. ) We were delighted to find that the chef had not lost his touch. From the beginning shrimp appetizer, through the heavenly lobster bisque and house salad, to the delicious veal Oscar and closing cheesecake, our appetites were amply satisfied. (3417 Wellington. Suite E. (817) 738-9704. Sun-Thur6-Wpm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards $$$)
D Hedary’s. Some things at Hedary’s were better than ever on our last visit, including the service by the members of the Lebanese-American family that owns the place. The assortment of appetizers was nothing short of spectacular, with definitive eggplant and chickpea dips, falafel. vegetables and salads. And the baklava and other desserts were light. delicate and delicious We confess to some disappointment with our mam dishes, though. Our skewered lamb was tough, and our frarej (chicken broiled m olive oil) didn’t taste as boldly of garlic as we remembered. (3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817) 731-6961. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner Tue-Thur & Sun 5-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcia’s. The tame of Joe T. ’s can get in the way of enjoyment when tourist buses pile up outside, but if you can go at an off hour a lot of old magic is still there. There is less bustle, and the mostly gringo waiters are more solicitous. The food is pretty consistent In case you haven’t heard, the standard Mexican dinner is the big specialty here, and it’s almost the only thing Joe T. ’s serves It consists of round cheese nachos with a sprinkling of chopped jalapenos, a couple of cheese enchiladas with a purist’s cumin-flavored sauce and a couple of tacos made the old-fashioned way, with meat tried right in the crimped-together shell. On the side, thick retried beans, a lovely guacamole and flufty Mexican nee are served family style. For holdouts against tradition, a version of tajitas called biftec is a worthy (and the only) alternative. (2201 N Commerce (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-2: 30 pm & 5-10: 30 pm. Sat 11-11. Sun 1-10 pm. No credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Michel. Things have changed at this toniest of Fori Worth French restaurants Now there is a printed menu, from which you can order à la carte And Michel also offers a nightly menu de dégustation, with five sizable courses, including dessert (not bulked out with mere green salad and sorbet). When we visited, the menu de dégustation included some surprisingly adventurous items, starting with a veal paté and then a seafood mousse Fillet of sole was lopped with a strong-tasting, oversalted mélange of diced potatoes and capers That was followed by a breast of pheasant in a winey sauce. From the à la carte menu, we sampled a racy salad with chicken livers and a rack of lamb, magnificently crusty on the outside and pink and juicy inside. Despite a few flaws, the new scheme of things seems to have put some new life into the cooking, and the service, too. seemed newly attentive and helpful (3851 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-1231 Mon-Sal6-10pm. Closed Sun Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards $$$$)
La Palma. No ritzy feins. No cute little fried appetizer things. And no frosty margaritas-they don’t even have a hard-liquor license. But, jumpin’ jehosaphat. you dont need those trills when you’ve got the best fajitas in town. That’s an honor we don’t bestow lightly. We’ve long been on the trail of the best fajitas in Fort Worth, and this restaurant eluded us for quite some time. It’s located on far north Main. (If you think you’ve gone far enough, you haven’t And don’t let the bright red windowless exterior daunt you This is the right place ) And now that we know where it is. it’ll be a permanent stop on our circuit. (3810 Main. (817) 626-0292. Mon 11 am-2 pm, Tue-Sat 11 am-9pm. Closed Sun MC, V. S)
La Poêle D’or. This restaurant, m its storefront location, is very small, with crowded tables, slow service and decor that’s nondescript at best. But the food is still worthy of consideration, even though the appetizers are unexciting and the salads are simple. We tried sautéed fillets of orange roughy, a fish from New Zealand, and found them delicate, and the specialty of the house (called shrimp Vance) is divine- lightly battered and crunchy crustaceans m a buttery sauce. The veal normande was heavy but tasty, and the chicken aux champignons was satisfying, too. (5718 Locke (817) 738-6670. Mon-Thur 6: 30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6 30-11 pm. Closed Sun. Ail credit cards $$$)
River House. The trick is to arrive early enough on a weekend night to be seated right away. That way, you’ll have the entire selection of specials to choose from. You’ll be sorry if you miss out on the King Salmon. On a recent visit, this special vanished at 730 p. m.. but our order was taken in the nick of time. We also tried the house scampi-twice (The first order the waitress brought us resembled curled-up snails in a brown sauce, but before we could even venture a bite, she returned to snatch the plate away, saying that this order would never do. ) She returned just moments later with some of the plumpest crustaceans we’ve seen in a long time. Lying on a puffy bed of pilaf, the shrimp made a big hit at our table. (1660 S University (817) 336-0815. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner: Mon S Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. DC. $$$)
Robert’s. Housed in the building where Hamp’s Hoff-brau used to be, Robert’s is making an impressive showing on the local dining scene. The best steak, appropriately called Robert’s Steak, is as thick as it is wide. The fajitas are top-notch, and the guacamole surpasses all others we’ve tasted in Cowtown: It’s chunky and spiked with just the right amount of hot sauce. (215 University. (817)877-5515. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri &Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm All credit cards. $$)
Rodoifo’s. Have you ever had a hankering for pasta-and you wanted it right now? On the way to the movies recently, we were faced with such a dilemma Entertainment or sustenance? Crisis averted We found Rodolfo’s. Within minutes of being seated, we found ourselves in Iront of steaming tortellini and linguine in clam sauce. Somehow it seemed like destiny to be sitting in an Italian restaurant in Fort Worth being waited on by a French waitress who assured us that our order would be served “rapide. ” The tortellini was part of a pasta sampler plate that also included manicotti and ravioli, all in a cream sauce The linguine. basking in a highly seasoned red sauce, was like a magnet for the heavily dosed garlic bread. Indulging ourselves, we almost forgot the show. (6103 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-3801. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $)
Sardines. When the uncontrollable urge for steaming plates of pasta hits you. don’t waste a minute: Get over to Sardine’s, squeeze into one of the booths or the many tiny fables and get ready to start putting away some of the best in Fort Worth. Feast on a delectable order of spaghetti carbonara-a pasta lover’s delight of whipped cream, hunks of bacon, mushrooms, onions and eggs. This dish outranks such standards as fetluccine Alfredo and traditional spaghetti. For something lighter and less sinfully full of carbohydrates, the daily chef’s special, a Northern Italian bouillabaisse, is chock-full of shellfish served in a rich red sauce that’s just right for dunking garlic bread. Despite the slightly too-dim lighting. the too-loud jazz band and the always-bustling atmosphere, you can bet we are going to come back again for more. (3410 Camp Bowie. (817) 332-9937. Sun-Thur 530-11: 30 pm. Fri & Sat 5: 30 pm-1 am. Ail credit cards. $$)
D Saint-Emilion. There’s no doubt m our minds any more-this is Fort Worth’s premier restaurant and a wonderful bargain. The shrimp provencale is a masterpiece, and everything from salads with bacon and walnuts to the berry tarts is most worthwhile. Something as simple as sole meunière can be a treat here, though the comparably unfussy skewered lamb finally lacked something in the way of excitement. The main problem with Saint-Emilion is that everybody in Fort Worth seems to know about it already As a result, if you want to make the most of your evening here, make reservations, and go early enough that they haven’t run out of the marvelous roast duck. (3617 W Seventh, Fort Worth (817) 737-2781. Mon-Fri II. 30 am-2 pm & 6-10 pm. Sat 6-10pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
Tours. Inside, this doesn’t look like the storefront restaurant it is: Tours is small, but it’s very sophisticated-looking. Indirect lighting illuminates the soft pastel interior The menu is sophisticated, too. but on our most recent visit, the food didn’t quite come up to the level we had experienced previously The seafood gumbo was really not a soup – the shellfish were sauced with a bit of okra and a lot of spicy tomato. The chicken with wine vinegar and garlic proved to be an interesting version of a nouvelle classic. The desserts – boule de neige and lime mousse-were interesting but unexciting (3429B W Seventh St (817) 870-1672 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: dinner Tue-Sat 6-W. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended MC. V, AE. DC: personal checks accepted $$$)
Tuscany. The exterior of Tuscany is not very inviting, but what the restaurant lacks in atmosphere it makes up for in food and service The fish soup was served in a crock brimming with scallops, shrimp and pasta. Less adventuresome types can’t miss with the classic veal parmigiana, served with a side dish of pasta: the veal was tender and smothered in sauce and mozza- rella For dessert, we love the Italian pastries: they’re so sweet and rich, they’re worth skipping a week’s worth of meals for. (4255 Camp Bowie. (817) 737- 2971. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11: 30-2: 30: dinner: Mon-Thur 5: 30-10: 30. Fri & Sat 5: 30-11: 30, Sun 5-10. All credit cards $$)
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