ACCESSORIES CROWNING GLORIES

THE LOOK IS clean, crisp and conservatively chic.

There’s no room for bulging bangles or noisy extras. This season, designers are looking inward and backward to the first principle of all design: form follows function.

An accessory must work within the fabric of design to allow free-flowing play between function and form. All too often, accessories interrupt a clean line with unnecessary bulk or glitter. Those accessories make wearing clothes a tiresome reminder of what is “in” instead of what is comfortable, fun, and functional.

To achieve that delicate synthesis between form and function, designers have cut back on the hoopla and hype of past seasons to concentrate on the basics. The results-in classic pearl, silk, and lace among others-are refreshingly refined and fun.

In contrast to the varied array of haberdashery, much of this season is wrapped up in the sensuous turban treatment by Donna Karan, a designer who keeps the look simple yet sophisticated, She tops off her crisp look with signature accessory designs by Robert Lee Morris.



For too long, scarves have been relegated to a secondary position among contemporary accessories. Hermes features several stylings correcting that situation by reintroducing the elegant (and functional) use of the scarf. Blazer also by Hermes.

This season’s treatment of the three-strand pearl necklace, simultaneously romantic and chic, is an accessory that embodies all the elements of a classic. Three-strand necklace and earrings by Kenneth Jay Lane; navy and white drop-waist dress by Flora Kung.



The pictorial extravaganza Out of Africa has inspired hat maker Frank Olive to create a wistful treatment of lace and woven straw. Although nostalgic in conception, the hat can top off the season’s most contemporary stylings. Pearl choker by Kenneth Jay Lane; earrings by Chanel; blouse by Perry Ellis.

Accessories king Jay Feinberg adds a demure sparkle of rhinestones with his dragonfly pin that can light just about anywhere. Here, the star-studded insect meets up with an evening frock by Bill Blass, one designer who believes that the back of a woman’s gown should be just as interesting as the front.



Attention to detail gives Donna Karan the competitive edge. Notice the detailed cufflinks and styled trouser pocket. And belts are uniformly wider, giving slim waists an even slimmer look. Belt by Donna Karan; cuff link by Robert Lee Morris for Donna Karan.

The boater is making waves this season. Its simple, clear-cut silhouette has designers pairing it with almost everything. Here, Norma Kamali presents an all-solid version.



But the boater isn’t the only hat to make headlines. This sombrero with a gold band by Frank Olive gives even the most conservative look a touch of adventure. Khaki and gold blouse by Chanel.

Lace-in all its delicate forms-doesn’t have to be frilly to be effective as Norma Kamali shows in her spring collection.



The spectator pump is getting all the attention with its classic two-tone facade and varied heel height. These Perry Ellis and Chanel pumps are per-fect matches for the colors of the season.

Don”t forget your wrists when putting on the finishing touches. If you lack a matching pearl-strand bracelet, try wrapping a pearl necklace twice around your wrist for an elegant touch. White evening dress and coat by Flora Kung; choker, used as a bracelet here, with earrings by Chanel.