SPLITTING HAIRS

ESCAPE THIS FALL from the mens-wear-look blahs to exotic eyes and fantasy hair.

Considering all the bright, bold looks for fall, hair will be played up, not down. This season, it’s a change from the one all-over look to a look that can be changed almost on a moment’s whim. “Your hair is an accessory,” says London/Dallas hairstylist Alan Stone. “It’s the only part of your body you can constantly change.”

The classic bob has made a transformation. Mia from the Mia Salon calls it “the elongated bob.” Hair will be worn longer- between chin and shoulder length-allowing for an updated look. The cut is softer along the sides and graduated down with a distinct femininity. As for the bob, it has more layers, which gives volume without the weight.

Your hair cut is the most important place to start this season. Styles are closer to the head and flatter than last year. And instead of backcombing, hair will be combed forward to create a more dramatic look by sweeping the hair toward the face.

Geometric shapes are being taken to the limit. Hair is cut in slices with a resulting “double-cut” or “twin-cut” in which layers are cut into the hair. Revolutionary hair-cutting instruments such as Mia’s “texturiz-ing scissors” give a geometric look. With a pattern cut right into the blades, these scissors automatically cut hair unevenly. In the same vein, we’ll be seeing the “fringe” and “baby bangs” creating an unstructured look. As hair is getting longer, bangs are getting shorter. Baby bangs are unnaturally short and can be worn in an even or uneven cut across the forehead. Fringes are the bangs taken one step further, with asymmetrical strands pulled through the bangs.

The most daring hair fashion? Outrageously bright-colored wigs. Stone says the trend is toward wigs that look like wigs because “you want people to know it’s a wig.” Bloomingdale’s carries a wide assortment of wigs called “Fabulous Fakes,” ready-to-wear do’s in bright colors such as “Fantasy Blue” and “Pastel Pink.”

The less adventurous can add hair extensions. Instead of a full wig, you can have the same bright colors or more subdued shades in specific spots. Hair switches are available to wrap around a ponytail, to attach to the end of bangs, or to put on the top of your head with your own hair pulled through. These fake additions can make for a dramatic nighttime change of pace. The hair pieces are made of “monofiber” and turn hair into a real fashion accessory.

If you’re not daring enough for a neon pink wig or hairpiece, then check out the newest of hair colors. Hair coloring is not a new idea, but now colors will emphasize the hair cut with brightness and additional intensity. For a permanent color change, we’ll be seeing a lot of very blonde and very black. The blonde will be a glamorous bleached blonde (a la Marilyn Monroe). Local hairstylist Neinast calls this a “post-war look” in bringing back the platinum blonde look of the Thirties and Forties.

“Women want to get back to being women,” says Paul Neinast, who, along with Dallas hair expert Ric Bishop, believes that for fall, we’ll be seeing sensual, sexy women.

Semi-permanent colors known as “stains” can add highlights temporarily to hair. The color shampoos in and lasts about one month. Innovative designs can be created by splashing color to certain areas of the hair-such as the ends of the bangs to give a highlighted effect.

With hair color becoming as easy to change as a pair of pants, colored mousses are cashing in. Blondes, brunettes and redheads can all enhance their natural hair color at the same time they style it. The mousse is worked into wet hair as it adds hues of the normal hair color or a slightly different one. Two favorites are KJorane’s Natural henna Styling Mousse with extracts of henna and Clairol’s Loving Care color foam that washes in color.

Mousses and styling gels are still the hottest hair items around as they add texture and shape to hair as well as shine and manageability. Scrunch drying with the fingers is still a better way to dry hair instead of using hot rollers since it gives an unkempt, not-so-fixed look. Texture manipulation is hair’s best option and perms are being used more for texture than an all-over curl. Hairstylists are spot perming to create volume or to give extra body to a certain area of the hair.

THE NEW GUYS IN TOWN



WITH A SEA of hairdressers washing in over Dallas, one of the most innovative hair designers, Wayne Towsley, is riding the crest. Towsley’s hairstyles have debuted in Paris and London style shows and his work has been featured in Italian, English, Japanese and American fashion magazines. He has studied with several notable salons, but most recently with English hairstylist Alan Stone in Dallas. Towsley credits his craftsmanship to his work with Stone and the high standards of European hairdressing that Stone taught him.

Towsley is known for his iconoclastic hair designs and innovative styles and colors. He believes “modern hair styling is both an art and a science.” Towsley’s interest in color is reflected in his use of both permanent and temporary color-seen in bright poster paints, interior lights and colored mousses, and exotic hair pieces.

After three years at the Alan Stone Salon, Wayne Towsley has recently opened his own free-lance business. His studio is located at The Parlour on 4535 Travis Street, Suite B101.

To open its first salon in America, Europe’s widely hailed Toni & Guy has chosen a location in Preston Center. With shops in Rome, London, Copenhagen and Tokyo, the celebrated hairstylists decided that it was time for a move to the States. But instead of choosing New York or Los Angeles, the company picked Dallas because “of the area’s dynamicism and potential.” Often called the hairdressers’ hairdressers, the U.S. team sees Dallas as a pleasant mix of conservative and avant-garde hairstyles. It’s their goal, they say, to help create individual looks for every client they see. And to that end, Toni & Guy propose to videotape each haircut so that customers can gain a deeper understanding of how their hair was cut and how to maintain their new styles.

The company has always been on the leading edge of hair design. Remember hair weaving? Those futuristic designs were the creation of Toni & Guy. This season, they’ll be working many variations on the bob cut. The guys are heavily into “fantasy hair,” creations that create an illusion about your hair and are often dual cuts, so that it can be converted into a more wearable cut within seconds. “Hair is a material to shape,” they say. “You’re only limited by your imagination.” The completion date for the salon, located at 6030 Preston Center, is mid-September.



MAKEUP IS clearly signaling a return to femininity this season. Experts at the Elizabeth Arden Salon say that makeup will be clear and true with a definite sophistication. And there won’t be as much contouring. “Now,” says one expert, “we’re starting to play up the good features we have instead of trying to hide all our bad ones.”

Most of the emphasis will be on the eyes. Eyes will be heavier with a return to liquid eyeliner, giving them more depth. Eyeshadows in blues and raspberries will play up the eyes, but the color won’t stop at the eyelid. To get the maximum effect of the colors, eyeshadows will extend all the way to the eyebrow line.

Exotic colors have found their way to the eyes in the new mascaras and eyeliners. Go for broke with electric blue or deep purple mascara. These colors accentuate the whites of the eyes and actually make them appear bigger. Eyeliners range in color from neon yellow to scarlet red and give the eyes an exciting-some say outrageous-look.

Moving down from the eyes, the next focus will be on the lips. Lips will be played up with lip pencil and lots of rich color. Reds, hot pinks and lilacs are the best colors. Cheeks continue to be undefined and the color will be barely there. A pink or peach powder is best to create a softer look.



IF YOU’RE LOOKING for a total “makeover,” you might try one of the four new beauty clinics that have recently laid their foundations: Diana Esber Beauty, Avant-Garde, Surface Salons and La Prairie.

Expanded from Diana Esber’s own mailorder and private consultation business into a customized beauty-care facility, Esber has worked for years in the field. She stresses the individuality of the customer. The studio is quiet and relaxing with services including skin and nail care, makeup consultation, tanning and fitness classes.

All services are customized. They’ll even blend several different kinds of foundation to get that perfect color for a customer or you can bring in your own makeup to get advice on what colors are right for you. Esber says that a few women have even brought in an outfit or two to match it with the right makeup look. Individual color analysis is important, says Esber, since every woman is unique, and different shades and combinations of color can create a woman’s fashion/beauty statement. Esber believes that just because purple is the hottest color around, it doesn’t mean every woman that comes in the studio will leave wearing purple. “Rather,” says Esber, “she will leave knowing the products and techniques that enhance her natural beauty.”

Esber’s own cosmetic and skin care product line is available at the studio, along with her “Siggy” accessory line-a collection of jewelry and handbags (the bags also available at Neiman-Marcus). Diana Esber Beauty will open for exercise class at 8 a.m. Monday through Saturday and color analysis, facials, tanning and nail services are available by appointment Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The studio is located at 538 Preston Royal Shopping Center.

Another total “make-over” facility that arrived in Dallas in March is Avant-Garde. This salon’s services include hair design, facials, massage therapy and reflexology (an Indian masseuse uses a special pressure point massage), body and face waxing and wardrobe consultation. Avant-Garde’s emphasis is to give the best service they can by making their customers happy. Gabriela Hyslop, owner of Avant-Garde, says that her full-service salon is a “place where people can relax.”

The relaxing atmosphere of Avant-Garde is best seen in the facial room. The facial expert does more than just facials-she also gives nutritional advice and a “lymph gland drainage massage.” As you sip herbal tea and drift away to the sound of the ocean (by electronic manipulation), she gives a complete throat and lower neck massage before your facial to cleanse the system of all impurities-found mostly in the lymph glands. It’s just “assisting nature,” she says.

Avant-Garde carries several lines of hair care and makeup products, along with Rene Guinot, their own line of skin care. The salon is open from 9a.m. to 9 p.m. and all services are by appointment only at their 842 Sakowitz Village Courtyard location.

Surface Salons offers yet another complete beauty facility, providing hair design, European facials, massage, nailcare, tanning, wardrobe consultation and makeup. Experts at the salon also offer advice on makeup for those who have had reconstructive surgery.

Susan Posnick, owner of Surface Salons, says that her salon is like “a family.” Working in conjunction with a plastic surgeon, Posnick has developed a skin and makeup line that is available at the salon. Posnick says the makeup is free of a lot of the common harsh synthetics.

Also available at the studio is a purse-sized makeup kit that can be individualized for each customer. Located at 2508 Cedar Springs Road, the salon is open six days a week from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. They even make house calls.

European women are known for taking care of themselves and as a result many of them have impeccable skin. What do they have that we don’t?

One hint from Europe is now available in the form of La Prairie Programme skin care products. The skin care regimen is based on the cellular research therapy done at the Clinic La Prairie in Montreux, Switzerland. In 1978, the comprehensive Treatment Collection was introduced to American retailers.

The La Prairie products-more than 16 lotions and creams-constitute a skin-care routine that gives the face and body complexion a softer, fresher look. The products contain placental proteins, plant extracts and nutrients that help stimulate the skin’s performance. And these ingredients, if used regularly, they say, may also help to retard the evidences of aging.

Margaret McAuliffe, vice president of marketing for La Prairie, says the emphasis of the program is on regimen and a “holistic approach to skin care.” Customers may be advised to use the products in groups of three or four, since they’re meant to work together. The La Prairie line does not include cosmetics, so they have concentrated on their skin-care products.

La Prairie skin care is available at Nei-man-Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Lou Lattimore. These stores will soon hold Beauty Balancing Clinics taught by La Prairie experts. The clinics will last anywhere from two to seven days to educate women on how to balance their lifestyles as well as how to use skin care. Fashioned after the Clinic La Prairie, the clinics will include discussion on diet, water intake, sleep, exercise and stress management.

Says McAuliffe, “In skin regimens, youdon’t have to change your life-just make thegood routines become habits.”