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THE WINNERS’ CIRCLE

A guide to the best restaurants in Dallas/Fort Worth
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Twice each year we update our D Awards-the recognition we pay to the restaurants we believe are the finest in Dallas. These are the restaurants at the top of our rating system, in which we assign all reviews a rating between 1 and 10. Those that receive a rating of 7.5 or above-which means generally exceptional in food, service and atmosphere-are singled out within the listings with a large D. We tend to be conservative both in making these awards and withdrawing them. When a restaurant that has demonstrated excellence over a long period seems to falter on one visit, we try to go back to see whether the lapse was momentary or represented a trend. Homer nods, and so do the best of restaurants-it’s only if they have drifted off to a disheartening slumber that we take away the D.

Restaurants can be given a rating of less than 7.5 and still be well worth your while. Any establishment with a rating of 5.0 or better has been judged to be very good, and those with a rating of 6.0 or better are excellent in some respects. They simply cannot, in our opinion, measure up overall against those given higher ratings. Sometimes they don’t seem as consistent, sometimes they don’t seem as daring or as interesting. Occasionally it is simply a matter of such mundane things as housekeeping and comfort (the classic case is Sonny Bryan’s, one of Dallas’ most famous places to eat and one of the world’s great barbecue joints-we don’t give it a D because of the hassle encountered in eating there and the litter that often clutters the dining area, such as it is).

We assign dollar signs to each restaurant based on the approximate price of a meal for one, including an appetizer where appropriate, a glass of beer or wine and dessert, with tax and tip, as follows: $, less than $10; $$, $10-$25; $$$, $25-$50; $$$$, more than $50.

Needless to say, we recommend any restaurant we continue to list, albeit sometimes with larger reservations than others.

DINING



How The Restaurants Rate



9.0



Calluaud, Chez Philippe, Enjolie, The French Room, Routh Street Café



8.5



Atlantic Café Blom’s, Café Pacific, Café Royal, The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan



8.0



Chez Gerard, Jean Claude, L’Ambiance, La Champagne, Pyramid Room, The Riviera, Rolfs, St. Emilion



7.5



Escape, Hedary’s, Jennivine, Kebab ’n Kurry, L’Ancestral, Newport’s, Old Warsaw (La Vieille Varsovie), Ristorante Savino, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse



7.0



Alessio’s, August Moon, Augustus, Café Rinc6n, Crystal Cactus, Ewald’s, Han-Chu, La Tosca, Mario & Alberto, Michel, Reflections, Ristorante Lombardi, Stetson’s, Taiwan



6.5



Bay Tree, Bohemia, The Carriage House, The Chimney, Chiquita, Chuggs, Chu’s, Crystal Pagoda, Dynasty, Dick’s Last Resort, Ferrari’s, Javier’s, Joe’s, Joe T. Gar-cia’s, Kincaid’s, La Madeleine, La Touraine, Les Saisons, Mario’s, Mario’s Chiquita, Marty’s, Mirabelle, Mr. Shishkabab, Mr. Sushi, Nana Grill, Parigi, Sergio & Luciano, Sonny Bryan’s, Tangerine, Tours, The Wine Seller



6.0



Abio, Adriano’s, Angelo’s, Benito’s, Café Cipriani, Café Kashtan, Cattlemen’s Steak House, China Terrace, Ciao, City Market, Dakota’s, DiPalma, Enclave Spectrum, Firenze, 1st Wok, Flying Lobster, Forbidden City, Genaro’s Tropical, Gennie’s Bishop Grill, Gershwin’s Bar & Grill, The Grape, Guadalajara, Highland Park Cafeteria, Hunan Dynasty, II Sorrento, Kobawoo, La Cave, Le Café Bowie, La Poele d’Or, La Trattoria Lombardi, Laurel’s, Lechner’s Brass Bull, Le Louvre, Little Gus’, Massimo da Milano, Nero’s Italian, The Palm, Peking Szechuan, Plum Blossom, Ribshack, Ris-torante Lombardi, Ristorante Vincenzd, Salute, Sam’s Bar & Grill, Sardine’s, Sawatdee, Siam Orchid, St. Martin’s, Szechuan, Three Vikings, Tong’s House, Tuscany, Verona



5.5



A.J. Gonzalez, Alfredo Trattoria, Baja Louie’s Grill & Cantina, Bagelstein’s, Belvedere, Best Pacific, Bob Willy’s, Bugat-ti, Café Cancun, Café Capri, Cantina Laredo, Capriccio, Charley’s Seafood Grill, Chickeria, China Inn, Chin Big Wong, Chow To Go, Dovie’s, Fishmonger’s Oyster Bar, Fortune Garden, Frenchy Café, Gonzalez, Good Eats Cafe, Herrera Cafe, Hong Kong, Jean Paul, Joe’s Seafood, Jozefs, Kobe Steaks, Kostas, Kuby’s, La Calle Doce, La Tartine, Le Boul’ Mich, Mia’s, Mocte-zuma’s, Mr. Peppe, New Big Wong, On the Border, Pacific Express, Panteli’s, Rickshaw, Robert’s, Rocco Oyster Bar, Royal China, Sahib, S&D Oyster Co., Sakura, Snuffer’s, Szechuan, Thai Café, Tanjore, Trail Dust Steakhouse, Turtle Cove



5.0



Alfredo’s, Arthur’s, Aventino’s, Bachman Café, Café Acapulco, Calhoun Street Oyster Co., Chip’s, Cremona, Da Piccolo, Fuji-Ya, J. Pepe Gonzalez, La Botica, La Deli, Nin-fa’s, No. 1 Chinese Seafood, Pat’s Sandwich Delicatessen, Pizzeria Uno, Pies’ Barbecue, Prego Pasta House, Prospect Grill, Puerto Vallarta, Richard’s Cafe Americain, Royal Tokyo, Seascape Inn, Sfizi, Tea Pot Inn, Tolbert’s Texas Chili Parlor



4.5



Blue Goose Cantina, Boulevard Cafe, Bub-ba’s, Cafe Italia, Campisi’s, Cantu’s, Casa Rosa, Clairde Lune, Crackers, El Gallito, El Rancho Grande, French Bakery/Café de France, Jason’s, La Bella, Mai’s, Mariano’s, Mason’s, The Mecca, Peggy’s Beef Bar, Pur-dy’s, Queen of Sheba, Shogun of Japan, Southern Kitchen



4.0



Albert’s Delicatessen, Antares, Cindy’s, Edelweiss, Escondido, Joe T. Garcia’s, Las Cazuelas, Salih’s Bar-B-Que, Thai Lanna



RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



D’s listings are updated and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment Inclusion in this directory has nothing to do with paid advertising.



The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate a general price range.



$ Generally inexpensive Usually indicates a good value.



$$ Middle ground and very general Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.



$$$ Expensive Expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal for one (excluding wine and cocktails).



$$$$ Very expensive.



“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will accept reservations.



Credit card notations MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club. CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



Restaurants have been rated on a 1 to 10 scale, with a rating of 10 being the highest recommendation Restaurants receiving a rating of 7 5 and above have been designated with a bold D.



NEWCOMERS



Nero’s Italian. From the name, the location (way downon Greenville) and the rather dark interior, you might expect early Roman decadence-or at least a bar morethan a restaurant. But all those little statues are of saints,not Venus and Mars, and Nero’s has turned thumbs upon good cooking Foremost among the offerings hereare the pizzas – if you like a fairly thick but crunchy crust,you may find these the best around. One page of themenu offers all sorts of combinations, from the fairlyroutine to new-wave goat cheese and Gorgonzola affairs, and you can build your own from a list that includes almost every imaginable ingredient. We likedseveral of the combos, especially the “herbivore.” onwhich we detected sliced fresh tomatoes, peppers,onions, eggplant and lots more. Appetizers includeslender spears of fresh asparagus in a creamy vinaigrette, shrimp in basil sauce and a “three color” soup(red and green from peppers in honor of the Italian flag).Pastas can be ordered either as an appetizer or a maincourse, and we found the creamy linguine pescatoresuperior to the tasteless ricotta-stuffed manicotti A smallblackboard lists nightly specials The veal in a goat-cheese sauce was interesting, if slightly peculiar inflavor Desserts are a mixed lot. We liked the summercake-spongecake layered with citrus slices andwhipped cream – better than the strawberry tart, whichhad a tough crust. Service was solicitous and professional. All in all. Nero’s is one of the most promisingItalian trattone to hit Dallas in a long while (2104 Greenville Ave 8266376 Mon-Thur6-11 pm. Fri & Sat 6 prn-midnight Closed Sun AE $$) 6.0

Crystal Pagoda. Yet another elegant new Chinese restaurant, this time on upper McKinney and under the same ownership as Bamboo Pavilion and the nowclosed Szechuan Pavilion. Actually, Crystal Pagoda ismuch more glamorous than either of those establishments. Great Chinese kites loom overhead, the look isbright and airy and flowers grace every table. The foodis better than at the owners’ other places, too. The crispyspring rolls are excellent for those who haven’t venturedbeyond them, but the crispy shrimp balls and the bonbon chicken are really superb appetizers: The shrimpballs are crunchy on the outside and juicy within, andthe shredded chicken is topped with a spicy peanutsauce. The chef’s suggestions contain no big surprisesfor devotees of Chinese food – the Crystal Pagoda is nopathbreaker-but the orange beef has real characterand the crispy prawns with walnuts makes an admirabledish for those who like a touch of sweetness in a Chinese meal but don’t want to go as far as a sweet-and-sour number. Peking duck is available without priornotice, the various stir-fried dishes contain marvelous-ly crisp vegetables and the hot spicy eggplant equalsany version of the dish in Dallas. Add discreet, professional service, and you have in Crystal Pagoda one ofthe two or three finest Chinese restaurants inside Loop12. (4516 McKinney. 526-3355. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.5

Mario’s Chiqulta. If the name gives you a sudden attack of dejà vu, that’s because this new Piano restaurant is a venture of Mario Leal, Dallas’ premier Mexican restaurateur (who also owns, of course, Chiquita and Mario & Alberto), Mario’s Chiquita offers the same menu as its cousins-the off-the-menu “new specialties” were not available when we visited, but they are promised for the future. But it still brings to Piano probably the best food you can find there, so denizens of the booming suburb will no doubt flock to the restaurant once they figure out how to get there. Our only misgiving about this enterprise is the nagging question of whetheranybody can keep three restaurants producing food asgood as Chiquita and its successor have been knownfor Mario’s Chiquita features a fine version of chorizoflameado (Mexican sausage and cheese melted anddolloped into a flour tortilla), excellent flautas and evena passable version of ceviche as appetizers, in additionto the ubiquitous nachos. Mario’s Chiquita does anespecially pleasing job with its beef dishes – the filete dela casa and the filete pimiento vie for top honors. Twodepartments in which Mario’s Chiquita seems to beleading its forebears are service and desserts The staffat the Piano location doesnt exude the impatient gruff-ness we have sometimes noticed at the other two Maybe it is just a function of being less harried, but we hopethose pleasant qualities don’t diminish as business picksup The sopapilla here was exemplary, and was garnished with fabulous cinnamon ice cream The coconutice cream is just as good, rich and refreshing at thesame time. And if you don’t want to indulge in sweetspublicly (your jogging partner might be at the nexttable), you can always sneak home a big cinnamon praline (221 W Parker, Suite400, Piano 4232977 Mon-Thur 1130am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30-11 30 ClosedSun. MC, V. AE. $$) 6.5

City Market. On the mezzanine of the new LTV Center,City Market offers a chic lunch with a view. You walkthrough a cafeteria-style line for your food, but there isstill an atmosphere of luxury Maybe it’s the food itselfthat makes a meal here seem festive The best thingsare the wonderfully varied salads The meat salads include “wild tuna” (with cashews and other goodies),sausage and ratatouille, chicken (with a hefty dose ofcurry) and flank steak (with julienne red and green peppers) We could cheerfully gain pounds through carbohydrate overloading on the linguine salad (flavored withsesame oil for a strong Oriental influence) or the creamynew-potato salad More virtuous, but still tasty, are thevegetable salads like zucchini or kohlrabi and carrotand the extraordinary fruit salad, enlivened with flecksof fresh mint Other offerings at City Market seem a bitprosaic There are deli sandwiches wrapped up inplastic (the one of marinated chicken salad was tasty,but low on filling for our money) The various brownie-like concoctions are our favorite desserts; the pies, fruitbreads and cobblers we have found a bit disappointingCity Market also offers a selection of wines andpreserves and the like to take home It serves breakfastfor those downtown early, and will validate parkingtickets for the basement garage (200 LTV Center, 2001Ross at Harwood 979 2696 Mon-Fn 7 am-5 pm. MC.V. $) 6.0

Salute. Spots of color against black woodwork and shutters make Salute one of the handsomest places to eat on McKinney. The menu features mostly grilled andfried things, with occasional hip nouvelle-ish touches irthe accompaniments. Among the most memorablethings are the fried banana peppers in a crunchy, thincoating of batter and the onion crisps. Frying here extends even to quail and ice cream -we didn’t thinkeither took too well to the procedure. Steaks and hamburgers come off the best among the grilled items,though both poussin (small, young chicken) and tunasteaks have a nice flavor. Most main courses come witha serving of the vegetable of the day. On one occasionthe fresh green beans, which had a peppery tang, wereexcellent, but on another the grilled mixed vegetablesarrived at the table cold. Many of the dishes at Salutehave a piquant afterbite, in fact, from the ranch-stylesalad dressing to the onion crisps. This aggressivenessis nicely offset by the two Mexican-influenced desserts,very soothing and mellow: The flan is creamy and rich,and the churros (the Mexican answer to the doughnut)come with a scoop of ice cream. (2909 McKinney. 871-2407 Sun-Wed 11:30 am-10 pm, Thur-Sat 11:30 am-11pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0

Joe’s Seafood. There are no tables at this serve-yourself oyster bar, just counters and stools, but the lack of amenities doesn’t hurt the taste of the seafood. The oysters on the half shell seemed fresh, if not particularly cold and choice, and the boiled shrimp suffered from the same blahs most Dallas versions of this dish exhibit (you’d think somebody would learn to put enough salt and seasonings in the water). But for fried seafood, Joe’s is a good choice. The whole catfish is served with the fillets miraculously peeled away from the bone, the shrimp are succulent and the oysters are sweet and tender. The trench fries are satisfying if you don’t mind a little grease (we don’t in this case), the coleslaw is serious, garlicky stuff and the hush puppies are the real thing – we had to go back and order more. The gumbo is better than average. That virtually exhausts the menu here, save for cold beer and wine by the glass. Joe’s is nothing fancy; it’s in a very odd location -we wish they would put up a billboard so travelers could know someplace this good is 30 seconds off the freeway- but wethink it’s a valuable addition to funky Dallas dining, (4324Ash Lane (eastbound service road of 1-30, Peak/Carrollexit), 823-3681. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-midnight. No credit cards. $) 5.5



AMERICAN NOUVELLE



D REVISITS



D BIom’s. Every dish here stretches the imagination to its ultimate. On our last visit theever-changing menu yielded duck liverwith ginger and mango; a salad of endives, oystersand tiny beets; rack of lamb crowned with an herbsouffle and lots of fresh rosemary; and a crêpefilled with a light mixture of yam and walnuts. (Wes-tin Hotel, Gallena, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494.Mon-Thur 6:30-10 pm, Fn-Sat 6-1030 pm; Sunbrunch: 10-2, dinner: 6-9:30 Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards.$$$$) 8.5



Gershwin’s Bar & Grill. You’ve never seen so muchtrendiness packed under one roof as you will see here:Pizzas with odd ingredients, homemade pastas, intricate salads, blackened redfish, charcoal-grilledeverything, lots of fresh herbs and even kiwi fruit. (8442Walnut Hill at Greenville. 373-7171. Mon-Thur 11:30am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-1 am, Sun 11:30 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$-$$$) 6.0

Laurel’s. The dishes here look as if they had been liftedoff the pages of Bon Appetit. The beef and the salmonwe tried last time were cooked competently, but thesauces lacked depth and flair. (Sheraton Park CentralHotel, 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Mon-Sat 7 pm-12 am.Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Jackets andties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 6.0

D REVISITS



Dakota’s. This literal watering hole (the patio is 20 feet beneath the sidewalks of downtown Dallas) remains popular with the after-work set for its glamour We were disappointed with the food on a recent visit, but a subsequent change of management may have improved things (600 N Akard. 740-4001. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3. Sat 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30; Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards Lunch$$, dinner$$$) 6.0

Mason’s. Mason’s isn’t the exciting purveyor of American nouvelle dishes that it seems when you read themenu: The cooking doesn’t have much flair or authority. The fixed-price table d’hote dinner, however, is abargain at $18.50. (Sheraton Dallas Hotel & Towers,Southland Center. 400 N Olive 922-8000 Mon-Sat 6-11pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards $$$) 4.5



D REVISITS



D The Mansion on Turtle Creek. We hadjust had a magnificent meal here when itwas announced that the talented DeanFearing was taking over as chef. If anybody canmake the superb food better, it’s Fearing, so we areanticipating great things at the Mansion. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526 2121. Mam dining room [jacketsand ties required, except at brunch)-lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch: Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2:30;dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper:Mon-Thur 10:30 pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-mid-night Promenade Room – breakfast: daily 7-10:30;lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2; tea Mon-Fn 3-5 30 Reservations All credit cards. $$$$) 8.5



Nana Grill. This aerie atop the new addition to theLoews Anatole has lost the chef that made its NewSouthwestern Cuisine offerings so singular, but that’snot to say that the change has been all bad The menuis still very much the same, and if there are less adventurous combinations now, there is also less alarm atthose that don’t quite work. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Fn 11-2:30:dinner: daily 6-10:30. Reservations recommended tordinner. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5

Parigl. The food at Pangi is very chic, although mercifully most things are not cooked over mesquite. In theevening, there is a selection of a half dozen appetizers(including several recherche salads and one soup),three or so pastas of some ingenuity and three or so entrees, plus a short list of desserts and a wide-rangingwine list-all on a handwritten menu that changes everyfew days. (3311 Oak Lawn. Suite 102 521-0295Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner: Tue-Thur6:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 6:30-11 Closed Sun & Mon. MC.V. AE. $$-$$$) 6.5



D REVISITS



D Routh Street Cafe. Ever had ethereal broiled catfish in a pecan sauce? Honey-dew-tequila ice or a sherbet with mangos and hot chile serrano? You can find such delicacies only at Dallas’ number-one purveyor of restaurant chic, Routh Street Cafe. (3005 Routh at Cedar Springs. 871-7161. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Lounge Tue-Sat 6 pm-1.30 am. Closed Sun& Mon Reser vations recommended. MC. V, AE. DC $$$$) 9.0



Sam’s Bar and Grill. Here’s an ambitious new place that courts the after-hours trade with a vengeance It’s open 24 hours a day, and its hefty dinner menu is served until 2 a.m. (after that, sandwiches, omelettesand desserts are available) The best bets are themesquite-gnlled items, such as the Black Angus steaksand the swordfish (Bradford Plaza Hotel, 302 SHouston 761-9090 Open 24 hours daily All creditcards. Breakfast & lunch $$, dinner $$$) 6.0



BARBECUE/TEXANA



Bob Willy’s. Get on out here while it’s still more or lesscountry – there’s an ominous-looking crane loomingacross the way. Attached to an antiques store, this restaurant is the picture of a country dining room, and itoverlooks a grove of willow trees and open fields. Thebarbecue is good, if not outstanding (1933 Preston,Piano. 596-0903 Breakfast daily 6 30-noon; lunch:daily 11-2:30: dinner: Thur-Sat 5:30-10 No credit cards:personal checks accepted $$) 5.5

Chickeria. We can imagine a lovers’ quarrel gettingstarted by a meal here He has the lamb ribs, the barbecued sausage, the not-too-gooey potato salad andthe pecan pie and claims that Chickeria is one of thefinest inexpensive restaurants in Dallas She has thedned-oul beef brisket and ribs, the oddly sweet turnipgreens and the otf-tasting mashed new potatoes andmaintains that it has to be one of the worst (601 N Has-kell 821-9072 Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. ClosedSun AE $) 5.5

Good Eats Caté. It seems odd when an interloper from Austin sporting Texas funk moves into the space formerly occupied by one of Dallas’ great bad restaurants (Phil’s Delicatessen), but it has happened, and we guess we should make the best of it Almost everything the place serves is grilled over mesquite The barbecue is at least interesting: The sausage is our favorite, with a coarse texture and a homemade flavor, but the paprika-red chicken is tasty, too. (3531 Oak Lawn. 521-1398.Sun-Thur7am-11:30 pm, Fri&Sat7am-midnight. MC,V, AE. $$) 5.5

Peggy’s Beef Bar. The most surprising thing aboutPeggy’s is the funky, old-time-barbecue-joint atmosphere in the middle of the Park Cities, although theladies behind the counter are too refined to remind youof the people who used to work in such places. The barbecue is good, if unremarkable, and the portions are notoverwhelmingly large. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm, Sal 10 am-4 pm. Closed Sun. Nocredit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 4.5

Pies’ Barbecue. If you like your barbecue on the sweetside, pay a visit to Mr. Pies in his converted Oak CliffDairy Queen. Not only do the ribs, beef and sausagehave a decidedly sweet flavor, but so do the pintobeans and turnip greens. (1212 W Kiest. 371-5533.Mon-Thur 11 am-8 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9 pm. ClosedSun. No credit cards. $) 5.0

The Rlbshack. This admirable establishment offers aninteresting range of indigenous Texas foods. Those whocome expecting traditional Texas barbecue, however,will be disappointed. The sugar-cured, smoke-cookedribs (beef or pork) are drier and less crusty than regulation barbecue, and the smoked beef is like very leanroast beef. (4615 W Lovers Lane. 351-3400. Daily 11am-10pm.No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$) 6.0

Salih’s Bar-B-Que. This rustic restaurant on the Ad-dison strip is a popular lunch spot for North Dallasworkers because it serves hearty, home-style meals.Salih’s offers plates of mild barbecued beef, pork,chicken or sausage, as well as sandwiches. (4801 BeltLine, Addison. 387-2900. Mon-Sat 11 am-8;30 pm.Closed Sun. No credit cards. $) 4.0

Sonny Bryan’s. Lordy, can these folks cook barbecue! The brisket is tender and juicy, with a crisp crust that is the essence of wood smoke; the ribs are perfection. It’s of little consequence, we suppose, that the side dishesare nothing to speak of and that the hubbub and housekeeping are insufferable. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120.Mon-Fn 10 am-5 pm, Sat 10 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2pm.No credit cards. $) 6.5

Tolbert’s Texas Chill Parlor. The late, great FrankTolbert’s big, open restaurant is an easy place to relaxover a beer or get rowdy while watching games on thetube. But it’s an even better place to chow down onsome of the area’s best Texas cooking: burgers, na-chos, chicken-fried anything and, of course, Tolbert’sfamous bowl of red. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri&Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun 11:30 am-11pm. MC. V, AE. $) 5.0



CHINESE



DREVISITS



August Moon. Even hackneyed things like spring rolls can be extraordinary at August Moon, Dallas’ best unpretentious Chinese restaurant. But don’t neglect the more unusual dishes like the seven-taste shrimp. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30pm, Fri&Sat 11-11. Reservations lor four or more or for special banquets. Bar by membership. All credit cards. $$) 7.0



China Inn. Pardon the pun, but this is one place whereyou’ll welcome fowl play. The almond chicken palesonly beside the king bo gai ding-tender chicken stripsstir-fried with Chinese greens and topped with roastedpeanuts in a fragrant hot pepper sauce. (6521 E Northwest Hwy. 369-7733. Sun-Thur 11 am-11 pm, Fri&Sat11 am-1 am. MC, V, AE. $) 5.5

Chin Big Wong. You can show off your Asian savoir-faire by coming here to order a whole live lobster (ours was two-and-a-half pounds) chopped into large pieces and cooked in garlic sauce or beef with broccoli. This is also one of the few places in Dallas where you canorder Peking duck right off the menu. (9243 Skillman,Suite 104(northoILBJ). 3430545 Mon-Thur 11 am-11pm Fri-Sun 11 am-midnight. $$) 5.5

Chu’t. There are some excellent – and fairly expensive-specialties here, such as Peking ribs (in a hot,slightly sweet sauce) and garlic shrimp (still in theirshells) On the regular menu, one of the most appetizing dishes is the chicken with pecans (15080 Beltway,Addison. 3871776 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 4:30-10. Fri & Sat 4:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Allcredit cards. $$) 6.5

1 st Wok. 1 st Wok serves food that’s good enough to attract notice We tried the noodles in sesame sauce and the scallion pancakes (also called Chinese pizza) andfound both delightful. The orange flavor beef and the”1 st wok double flavor feast” (shrimp in hot chili sauceand pork in black bean sauce) are top-notch (7001 FairOaks 369-2737 Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 am. Sun noon-11pm MC, V, AE, DC $$) 6.0

Forbidden City. Our last meal here was our best todate. The beef with scallops was succulent, with lots ofcrisp vegetables, and the shrimp with hot garlic sauce,though hardly incendiary, was assertive enough. Thechicken with cashew nuts rounded out the meal perfectly (5290 Belt Line, Suite 144. 960-2999 Mon-Thur11am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0

D REVISITS



Dynasty. This elegantly appointed Chineserestaurant keeps on getting better as it matures andrelaxes Instead of a lot of set-price dinners, themenu now concentrates on such interesting dishesas the steamed vegetable dumplings, “pink lady”(shrimp coated in crab roe and fried) and chickenwith macadamia nuts (Garden Inn, 4101 Belt Line,Addison. 385-7888. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri& Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Sun 11:30 am-10:30 pmJackets required after 6 pm. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5



Fortune Garden. The hot-and-sour soup is unequivocally the best in the Metroplex with good flavorand no extraneous ingredients. The steak with orangeflavor is an unusually fine version, with large, pillowypieces of meat that aren’t drowned in a gooey sauce(Keystone Park Shopping Center, 13929 N CentralExpwy, Richardson 235-3032. Daily 11 am-10:30pm.MC. V. AE. DC. $$) 5.5

Han-Chu. The most sophisticated-looking Chineserestaurant in town, with black-mirror tiles and hand-painted murals, also offers some of the best foodDishes that are ordinary elsewhere, such as spring rollsand hot-and-sour soup, take on real elegance here. Themenu includes lots of innovative dishes, but not all ofthem are cooked with the finesse that one might expect(Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy at Park Lane.Suite 191. 691-0900. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fn& Sat 11:30-11:30. Sun 5-10:30 pm All credit cards $$) 7.0

Hong Kong. On countless treks up and down GarlandRoad, we noticed the crowded lot in front of this storefront Chinese restaurant Once inside and well into aheaping plate of moo goo gai pan, we found that thefood well deserves praise (9055 Garland Rd328-2320 Mon 11 30 am-3 pm. Tue-Fri 11 30 am-230pm & 5-10 pm. Sat 11 30 am-10 pm. Sun 11 30 am-9pm. All credit cards $) 5.5

New Big Wong. When you want to eat as the Chinese do, go to the New Big Wong. Start with the winter melon soup, which also contains shrimp, chicken and other delicacies. Move on to a live lobster (from the tank near the door) cooked in ginger sauce. Add a dish of beef with Chinese broccoli (with looser flowers and astronger taste than the European variety) or shrimp withgarlic sauce, and you have an instant trip across the Pacific. (2121 S Greenville. 821-4199. Daily 11 am-3 am.MC, V AE. $$) 5.5

No. 1 Chinese Seafood. Here you’ll find live lobstersin a tank (we know of only one other Chinese placearound that has them) and a number of other fresh seafood dishes. The lobster cooked in a chili sauce showedthat the kitchen cannot boast notable refinement-thesauce contained a lot of coarsely chopped onion, nevera good sign in a Chinese restaurant -but the barelycooked crustacean was delectable anyway. (333 WSpring Valley, Richardson. 669-3166. Daily 11:30 am-2am. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.0

Peking Szechuan. This place serves some of the bestChinese food in Dallas. Among the chef’s suggestions,the shredded duck is most unusual – stir-fried in a spicysauce and rolled in delicate Chinese pancakes. (2560W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat & Sunnoon-11 pm. All credit cards. $$) 6.0

Plum Blossom. The Great Dynasty Banquet had crispy shrimp and soft noodles that were both far too salty; the Mongolian fire pot was a forgettable blend of beef, pork, chicken and green noodles salvaged only by some tender scallops. The bad dream was momentarily dispelled by the arrival of the main course: duck, lobster and sea trout, the latter in a fine kumquat sauce. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0



D REVISITS



Rickshaw. You expect it to have an Oklahomaarea code, Rickshaw is so far north. But this newishChinese restaurant serves portions that exceed theappetite of the tallest Texan. (4043 Trinity Mills0122. 323-0627. Lunch: 11-2:30 Mon-Fri: 12-2:30Sat: dinner: 5-10 Mon-Thur, Fri 5-10:30, Sat 2:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $) 5.5

Royal China. This place has settled down into comfortable middle age, with warm service and a relaxed yet enthusiastic clientele. Several of the best-known dishes here are variations on old favorites. The Royal Prawns are a lovely version of shrimp in chili sauce; they’re hot,sweet and pungent with ginger (Preston Royal Shopping Center, Preston at Royal. Suite 201 361-1771Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10. Allcreditcards. $$) 5.5

Szachuan. Starting with one of the most generouspupu platters we’ve seen, our meal here was well worththe wait-and there wasn’t much of a wait The spare-ribs were unusually thick and juicy, and the entreeswere a delight, whether simple (sweet and sour chicken) or complex (moo shi pork and Lake Tung Tingshrimp). (4117 Lemmon. 521-6981. Sun-Thur 11 am-1030 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Taiwan. One of the city’s nicest Chinese restaurants inthe evening, Taiwan also offers less formal dim summeals by day. Traveling carts bring around all sorts ofunusual delicacies. The various styles of dumplings(stuffed with beef, pork, shrimp or vegetables) arealways a hit (6111 Greenville. 369-8902; 4980 BeltLine. Addison, 387-2333. Mon-Fri 11 am-3 am. Sat1030 am-3 am. Sun 10:30 am-1030 pm at Greenvillelocation; Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat11:30-11 30 at Addison location. Reservations recommended All credit cards. $$) 7.0

Tangerine. Tangerine is airily modern in look, servesonly a few dishes on any given day and is open exclusively for weekday lunches. The chicken stir-friedwith peppers was succulently tender and juicy, and theshrimp and zucchini in a thick sauce spiked with curryshowed an enterprising Thai inspiration. (2401 Ross.969-1011. Mon-Fn 11 am-2:30 pm. Closed Sat & Sun.MC, V, DC. $) 6.5

Tea Pot Inn. The cooking here is slightly better thanaverage, with special successes among the spicydishes. The shrimp with bean curd, with lots of garlic and ginger, is one of our favorite Chinese offerings in Dallas. (11343 N Central Expwy. 369-6268 Mon-Wed 11 am-10:30 pm, Thur&Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat noon-1 am. Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0

Tong’s House. Even on a weeknight, this place is crammed full of Orientals and Occidentals alike, feasting on dishes like kung po scallops and beef with broccoli. You can usually find fresh whole fish steamed with lots of slivered ginger and scallion, and on weekends there are specials like whole crabs quartered and stir-fried with garlic and spices. (1910 Promenade Center. Richardson. 231-8858 Tue-Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Sun 11 am-9 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards $$$) 6.0



D REVISITS



Uncle Tai’a Hunan Yuan. Old favorites atthis toniest of Chinese restaurants, like thesliced duck with young ginger roots, neverfail to please. But both Uncle Tai’s chicken and LakeTung Ting shrimp proved unexciting on our lastvisit. (Galleria, 13350 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 3370934-9998 Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri&Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Jackets required lor dinner.All credit cards. $$$) 8.5



DELI/LUNCH



Albert’s Dellcateasen & Catering. Part of the attraction of this old-fashioned-looking place in downtown Piano is its owner. There are also some excellent sandwiches, including juicy hamburgers. The most unusual sandwich is made of basturma (an aged, dried beef with a spicy flavor of the Middle East). (1416 Avenue J, Piano. 424-4534 Mon-Fn 7 am-8 pm. Sat 7 am-2 pmClosed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted $) 4.0

Bagelstein’s. This used to be a somewhat surly bagelfactory with a few tables; now it’s a spacious, invitingdeli-restaurant with a long, long menu Maybe the menuis too long-the shrimp quiche we sampled was strong-tasting. But lots of the deli standbys are respectable:borscht, pastrami sandwiches, blintzes and cheesecake (8104 Spring Valley 234-3787 Tue-Sun 6 am-9pm. Mon 6 am-3 pm. MC. V. AE $) 5.5

Cindy’s. We’re not sure that we’ve figured out the appeal of this place- it may just be that there’s somethingfor everybody here (Cindy’s bills itself as a pancakehouse and delicatessen) The pancakes we tried weretoo cottony and flavorless for our tastes, but the blintzes(although unrecognizable to a New Yorker), and thecorned beef and pastrami sandwiches were fine. (11111N CentralExpwy 7390182; Oal-Rich Village. CoitatBelt Line, Suite 385, Richardson. 231-3660. Sun-Thur6 am-10 pm,Fn &Sat 6 am-midnght MC.V $) 4.0

French Bakery/Cafe da France. This delightful Pianobakery has tables inside and out and serves omelettesfor breakfast and sandwiches (on split croissants) forlunch. The croissants aren’t the flakiest we’ve ever had,but the cheese damshes are the best around (2969 W15th. Piano. 985-0003 Daily 6:30 am-9 pm. All creditcards; personal checks accepted $) 4.5

Frenchy Caté. Friendly and gracious service is provided by Josey. Yvon and Chris Bouguyon, and the dishes they serve generally match the ambience they’ve created We enjoyed a hot croissant drizzled with baby Swiss cheese and a good truffle paté before biting into our lunch entrées (5940 Royal Lane. 369-1235 Mon 11 am-3 pm, Tue-Fri 11 am-7pm. Sat 11 am-5 pm Closed Sun. MC. V; personal checks accepted. $$) 5.5

Kuby’s. A visit to this German delicatessen/restaurantis truly a European experience. The store is crammedwith German foodstuffs, meat, pastries and otherdelicacies. The lunch menu in the restaurant includes avariety of sandwiches, both German and Americanized,as well as soups (a different one each day of the week)and plates of Polish sausage, knackwurst or bratwurst.(6601 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Store hours: Mon-Sat 8am-6 pm; restaurant hours: Mon-Fri 8 am-5:30 pm, Sat8 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V for purchases over $15;personal checks accepted $) 5.5

La Tartine. This place on the eastern (less pretentious)end of NorthPark serves lovely lunches. Soups includeFrench onion and daily specials such as spicy, thicktomato. The sandwiches, made with the crusty Frenchbread that’s baked in-house, range from roast beef to aninformal bread pizza. Most fun of all, you can go to thecase beside the cash register to pick out dessert. Wetried cheesecake and baba au rhum, but there are fruittarts and all sorts of other goodies, too. (919 NorthParkCenter. 692-8498 Mon-Sat 9:30 am-9 pm. Closed Sun.MC, V, AE.) 5.5

Pacific Express. You’ll never eat in a fancier placewhere you carry your own food on a tray. The foodmight be characterized as “New Wave tearoom”: You’llfind salads, sandwiches and desserts, plus suitableaccompaniments such as fresh-squeezed orange juiceand wines available by the glass. (Pacific Place Bldg,1910 Pacific. 969-7447. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. ClosedSat & Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$) 5.5

Pat’s Sandwich Delicatessen. Pat’s is probably best known for its incomparable roast beef sandwiches: paper-thin slices of flavorful, deep pink beef served on a buttered Kaiser roll. But Pat’s also serves one of the best corned beef sandwiches outside New York City, as well as hearty Irish stew and creamy cheesecake. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 31, 526-5353; Prestonwood Town Center, Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, 991-6161. Mon-Sat 9 am-7 pm at Highland Park Village location; Mon-Sat 10 am-9 pm at Prestonwood location. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $) 5.0

Richard’s Café Americain. How delightful to venture to the top of Dallas’ only downtown apartment building (the Manor House) and find a bright and lively luncheon respite. The vegetable quiche was flavorful and chock-full of vegetables, but our favorite items were the miniature muffins served with fruit-flavored butter that changes each day with the whim of the chef (we had scrumptious strawberry). (Manor House, 1222 Commerce, 25th floor. 761-0143. Tue-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 4-7 pm. Closed Sat, Sun & Mon. All credit cards. $$) 5.0



FRENCH/CONTINENTAL



Abio. This deluxe new downtown restaurant has sandwiches, omelettes and daily specials for lunch, and thechicken-fried steak has good gravy and mashed potatoes. In the evening, there’s a larger selection. Steaksare the big specialty: The T-bone is impressively hefty,and the pepper steak (a treatment available with sirloin,filet or rib-eye) has a fine sauce. (One Dallas Centre,Bryan at St. Paul. 922-9070. Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2:30;dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards.Lunch $$, dinner$$$) 6.0

Antares. This is the perfect spot for a visitor to Dallas who is staying at the Hyatt Regency: It has an excellent view, good food and adequate service. By the same token, Antares is not an extraordinary place for Dallas-ites who have already seen the view. The specialty here is beef – excellent aged beef, including prime rib that’s of melt-in-the-mouth quality. (300 Reunion Blvd.7413663. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: daily 6-11; Sunbrunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations recommended. Allcredit cards. $$$) 4.0

Arthur’s. Once considered one of the premier placesin Dallas and still a favorite of the business crowd, Arthur’s (judging from our most recent visit) needs to expend more care in the kitchen if its reputation is to bemaintained. There can be no excuse for food of lessthan top quality at these elevated prices. (CampbellCentre, 8350 N Central Expwy. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-230; dinner: Mon-Fri 6-11. Sat 6 pm-midnight.Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 5.0

Bay Tree. Our roasted duck was marvelously pink-centered and juicy, a beautiful sight in its nest of sculpturednouvelle veggies The souffles are an ethereal choice fordessert, but skip the specialty torte. (The WyndhamHotel. 2222StemmonsFrwy 631-2222. ext4141 Mon-Sat 6-10 pm Closed Sun. Reservations recommended.All credit cards. $$$) 6.5



D REVISITS



D Café Royal. This is one of the finest kitchens in town when the chef hasn’t succumbed to terminal boredom meeting thedemands of the convention trade with humdrumdishes like beef Wellington. We’ve found the bestway to ensure that his interest is engaged is to orderone of the nightly specialties. (Plaza of theAmericas. 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun.Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$) 8.5

Caff Capri. It’s obvious from the cars out front, even at lunch, that the Far North Dallas moneyed set has taken Café Capri to heart The standard dishes, from paté andshrimp cocktail to crème caramel and chocolatemousse, are executed reliably. One rather originaltouch is the lavish use of garlic in the veal piccata.(15107 Addison Rd near Belt Line. 960-8686. Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30 2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10 30. Frit,Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sun. Reservations recommendedAll credit cards. $$) 5.5

D Chez Philippe. The food here may not always be perfect (we were served tough, overdone scallops and a heavy, caky chocolate souffle on our last visit) But most of it is so audacious in conception and expert in execution that we still think Chez Philippe is among a handful of the most memorablerestaurants in Dallas (5027 W Lovers Lane 353-9444Tue- Thur 6-9 pm, Fri & Sat seatings at 6 & 9 pm ClosedSun & Mon. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0

Clalr da Lune. Located in one corner of the Quadrangle, this handsome French restaurant offers good (although not consistently good) food at moderate prices. The trout amandine was delicious, but the accompanying potatoes were a disappointment; the roast beef sandwich was dressed in too much cabbage, but the bread was crunchy and fresh, (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2288 Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun 11-11 MC, V, AE, CB $$) 4.5

D REVISITS



D Calluaud. Owner/chef Guy Calluaud musthave been snoozing during our last visitOur appetizer paté en croute was so so,and the sautéed red snapper had a slightly sharptaste not masked by the sauce The superb rack oflamb and hazelnut soufflé only partly made up forthe disappointment (2619 McKmney. 823-5380Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10.Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30 Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required MC, V, AE. DC.$$$$) 9.0

Enclave Spectrum. Enclave Spectrum no longer hasthe prix fixe dinner that originally made it such abargain Some of the more adventuresome dishes arestill around, but other things on the a la carte menu arein the more old-fashioned continental style of the originalEnclave (5080 Spectrum Dr. Suite 115E 661-3390Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11:30Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0



D REVISITS



D Chez Gerard. As it matures, Chez Gerard is turning into Dallas’ best mid-priced bistro ever. From opening paté to closing floating island, there is rarely a disappointment (4444 McKinney 522-6865 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30- 2:30: dinner: Mon- Thur 6-9:30. Fri & Sat 6:30-11 Closed Sun MC. V. AE Lunch $$, dinner $$$) 8.0



Ewald’s. How many restaurants of a certain age are fulleven on a Monday evening? Maybe the patrons comehere to be reassured; there’s nothing trendy about thehighly dependable Ewald’s The specialties are veal andbeef, cooked authoritatively and smothered in heavysauces (5415 W Lovers Lane 357-1622 Mon-Fri6-10:30 pm. Sat 6-11 pm Closed Sun Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards $$$) 7.0



DREVISITS



D The French Room. The new maitre d’ makes the French Room even grander (no more display dishes wrapped in plastic wrap!) And the food resurrects la gloire of France: Scallop mousse, red Spanish shrimp salad, loup (French sea bass) lightly sautéed with asparagus sauce and a fruit tart with Bavatian cream couldn’t-have been better (Adotphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200 Daily 6:30-10 30 pm Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All creditcards. $$$$) 9.0



The Grape. This bistro and wine bar has been aroundor so long that it’s easy to forget how good it is We en-oyed the light, fresh mushroom soup and the heartyDate with our selections of wine by the glass. For some-hing heavier, try the veal selections (the menu changesrequently) (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823 0133lunch: Mon-Fn 11 30-2; dinner: Sun- Thur 6-11.Fn& Sat 6 pm-midnight. Ail credit cards $$) 6.0

D Jean Claude. We hope that the pleasures ofour last meal here mean that Jean Claude isback on track. An appetizer of duck liver inranslucent cabbage leaves was set off by a delicatesweet-sour sauce Sea bass and salmon fillets cookedto melting perfection lay on a bed of chervil sauce.’2404 Cedar Springs. 748-6619 Tue-Sat seatings at 6& 9 pm Closed Sun & Mon Reservations required MC,V, AE. DC $$$$) 8.0

Jean Paul. This small Preston Royal restaurant seems to have an older, more loyal crowd than some of the newer, snazzier French places about town Escargots in puff pastry were so heavily doused in sauce as to be indistinguishable from mushrooms in puff pastry. The lamb chops topped with blue cheese, however, were well worth sampling, though too rich to finish (5934 Royal Lane. 692-9515 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10, Frig, Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun.MC. V, AE. $$$) 5.5

D Jennlvlne. The more we revisit the reborn Jen-nivine. the more we are persuaded we liked herbetter before her conversion to a middle-of-the-road nouvelle type of cooking. Jenny, old dear, couldwe persuade you to reconsider that old-time religion?(3605 McKinney. 528-6010 Lunch: Mon-Thur 11:30am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun.Reservations. All credit cards. $$$) 7.5

D L’Ambiance. The unchanging character of this place might strike some as a bit dull, but we value the dependability of L’Ambiance. Entrees such as lamb in a dark, herbal rosemary sauce or grilled medallions of veal brightened with ginger come with a selection of vegetables (potatoes dauphinoise, a terrine of carrots, a puree of turnips). (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: MonSat 6-10. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 8.0

D L’Ancestral. We were a mite disappointed by our last visit to this cozy purveyor of la cuisine bourgeoise. The first-rate french fries accom- panied a steak that was more rare than we had ordered, and the special of the day, a lamb stew, was stringy and undistinguished (5631 Alta. 826-0006. Tue-Sun 6:30 prn-12 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$) 7.5

La Cave. We’ve never taken very seriously the pretensions of the original La Cave on Henderson to being a ? restaurant rather than merely a pleasant wine bar. But the new branch, located in a rather deserted corner of i the West End warehouse district (where Lamar runs into Woodall Rodgers Freeway), serves food that clearly should be reckoned with. (2926 N Henderson, 826-2190; 2019 N Lamar, 871-2072. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 5:30-10:30 pm, Sat 11:30 am- 12 am. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6 pm-midnight at Lamar location. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC $$) 6.0

D La Champagne. Numerous staff changes since its 1983 opening have made this most elegant of Far North Dallas restaurants a much better bet for dinner, but the news doesn’t seem to be out yet. We like a lot of things about La Champagne these days, from the little tidbits served “on the house” (nicely sauced venison sausage, brandied cherries, a gateau of Roquefort) to the harpist on duty. (The Reg-istry, 15201 Dallas Pkwy 386-6000 Tue-Sat 6:30-11pm Closed Sun & Mon All credit cards $$$$) 8.0

La Madeleine. These bakeries boast Dallas’ finestcroissants and other wonderful goodies (an almond tartwe tried recently was heavenly) The old-country ambience of the original Mockingbird location may temptyou to sit down and rest a spell, and you can orderquiches and other meals to eat on site (3072 Mockingbird. 696-6960: 3906 Lemmon, 521-0182 Daily 7am-9 pm at Mockingbird location: Daily 7:30 am- 9:30pm at Lemmon location No credit cards: personalchecks accepted $) 6.5

La Touraine. La Tourame is the name of one of the loveliest regions of France, and its namesake here is one of the loveliest – and most reasonably priced-French restaurants in Dallas The high ceilings and stout beams of the old building have been fitted out with elegant blond wood, mirrors and brass trim La Tourame offers everything from a light meal to the most substantial and hearty old-fashioned French fare (1701 N Market. 749-0080 Mon-Fn 7:30 am-11 30 pm. Sat 5:30-11:30 pm Closed Sun All credit cards $$-$$$) 6.5



D REVISITS



D La Vieille Varsovle (The Old Waraaw).You have only a few months to sample theatmosphere of the old Old Warsaw until itmoves to new premises in the fall Though the present location was not the original one, it is still by farthe senior venue of top restaurants in Dallas – whenit goes, an era will be over (2610 Maple 528-0032Sun- Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm. Reservations Jackets required. All credit cards$$$$) 7.5



Le Boul’ Mich. This cozy gray house across from the Quadrangle has been the favorite “little French restaurant” of many Dallasites for many years But lately we’ve noticed a little graying around the temples, a fading from glory, a surrender to Old Man Time What’s missing here is the aura of festivity so prevalent at Dallas’more popular French restaurants; Le Boul’ Mich offersthe laid-back comfort of home (2704 Worthington 826-0660 Mon-Thur 11 am-1030pm. Fri & Sal 11 am-11:30pm Closed Sun. MC.V.AESSS) 5.5

Le Louvre. Fine food and attentive service are whatthis elegant restaurant is known for We chose creamy,delicately flavored spinach soup and lobster bisqueRed snapper sautéed in a tarragon sauce was tasty,but it’s only for tarragon fanatics (The Corner ShoppingCenter. 9840 N Central Expwy 691-1177 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 -2, dinner: MonSat 6 11 30 Closed Sun Reservations recommended All credit cards $$$) 6.0

Lea Saisons. This is a lovely place for lunch or dinnerThe standard bistro menu is executed with aplomb, andyou can find all the old favorites, from paté to chocolatemousse Ordering a steak will get you exquisite trenchfries as an accompaniment (Turtle Creek Village. OakLawn at Blackburn. Suite 165. 528-1102 Sun-Thur11:30 am-11 pm,Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended All credit cards $$$) 6.5

Mr. Peppe. This little restaurant has kept its charm andits personal touch through the many years it has beenin business The food is obviously cooked with love andis most reasonably priced, but we tear it is beginning toseem a trifle too old-fashioned. The soup of the day(lightly touched with curry), the bland appetizers andsalads, the unremarkable desserts and the lacklustermain dishes could use a boost (5617 W Lovers Lane352-5976 Mon-Sat 6-10 pm Closed Sun MC. V. AE.DC $$$) 5.5

D Pyramid Room. After some years of wander ing about, this great Dallas institution seems to be back on track. The splendor of the room is restored, so we felt we had to live up to it with splendit erous dishes: blinis with caviar, lobster salad, rack of lamb and pheasant sauced with foie gras And the Linzertorte for dessert exceeded our expectations, (Fairmont Hotel, Ross at Akard 720-2020 Lunch Mon-Fri 11.30-2: dinner daily 6-10 All credit cards $$$$) 8.0

D The Riviera. Carpeting has taken away someof the glossy country look of this fashionablehaven, but we are grateful for the reduction indecibel levels. The food continues to be impressive,from a saffron-yellow oyster bisque and a delectableplatter of broiled fish and seafood to roast duck in asauce lightly sweetened with honey and a delightfulmocha-iced cake. (7709 Inwood. 351- 0094 Mon-Thur6:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6:30-11 pm, Sun 5:30-10 pm.All credit cards, $$$$) 8.0

St. Martin’s. This is an ideal nightspot for a romanticinterlude-the tables are candlelit and covered withcrisp white tablecloths and freshly cut red carnations-and its claim to fame seems to have been built on itswine, cheese paté and fruit offerings. But St. Martin’salso has a small yet varied menu ranging from roastbeef and veal to pasta and swordfish. (3020 Greenville. 8260940 Mon- Thur 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm. Fri & Sal11 am-3 pm & 5 pm-1 am. Sun 5-11 pm; Sun brunch:11-3. All credit cards. $$) 6.0

Three Vikings. You probably won’t come here for thedecor (which is basically dark mishmash), but the Scandinavian fare is good, if not memorable, and the family-style service is warm and charming. Particularly gooddishes include the marinated cucumber salad, the roastduck with almond sauce and the very tender lambchops with wild mushrooms. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770 Mon-Thur 6-10 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm.Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All creditcards $$) 6.0

GERMAN/EASTERN EUROPEAN



Belvedere. Almost everything the chef of this Swiss-Austrian restaurant attempts he accomplishes well,whether it’s perfectly preparing meaty, tender scallops,grilling a T-bone of veal or assembling a rich and colorful veal Oscar (Crestpark Hotel, 4242 Lomo Alto528-6510 Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sat6-10:30. Sun 6-9. Sun brunch: 11-2:30 Closed Mon. Allcredit cards $$$) 5.5

Bohemia. This tiny, romantic jewel never fails to leave us happily replete after a sturdy. country-Czech meal served in a room dancing with Viennese waltzes andflickering candlelight on lace tablecloths. Our favorite issauerbraten served with cranberries, soup or salad,several choices of vegetables and boiled potatoes orthick, pasty dumplings (2810 N Henderson 826-6209Sun & Tue-Thur 5:30-9 pm, Fri & Sal 5 30-10 pm.Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. All creditcards. $$$) 6.5

Café Kashtan. Just how many Ukrainian restaurants can Dallas boast? This is the only place in town we know of where you can order chicken Kiev cooked by a native of Kiev. We love the soups and the Kashtan sampler -mounds of cold salads made from beets, radishes and homemade sauerkraut (5365 Spring Valley at Montfort. 991-9550 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2, dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10Closed Sun MC. V. AE. DC $$) 6.0

The Chimney. The warm atmosphere, delicious foodand attentive service here add up to an evening of purepleasure The veal cordon bleu, served with noodlesand snow peas, was prepared to perfection So was thesole amandine, so tender it crumbled at the touch of afork. (Willow Creek Shopping Center. 9739 CentralExpwy at Walnut Hill Lane 369-6466 Lunch: Mon-Sat11:30-2: dinner Mon-Sat 6-10 30 ClosedSun Reservations requested All credit cards $$$) 6.5

Lechner’s Brass Bull. Here, in a pleasant room tuckedaway in the labyrinthine lobby ol the Regent Hotel, arethe folks who bring you German specialties with a fewTexas favorites Werner Lechner, the personable chef,is accomplished in both old-country dishes like Wienerschnitzel and schnitzel a la Holstein and in flown-in specialties from the Boston seafood markets (The RegentHotel. 1241 W Mockingbird. 630-7000 Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Sun 5-10:30 pm. All credit cards $$$) 6.0

D Rolf’s. On our last visit, we had the most Ger man – and probably the best – meal we’ve ever eaten at Rolf’s The sauerbraten was beautifully braised and sliced, and its sauce was not too em phatic We were amused by the platter of smoked pork and sausages, which came with a puree of split peas and sauerkraut – the Cinderellas of the table, promoted from downtrodden handmaidens to true royalty With its subdued, romantic atmosphere. Rolfs is a treasure (Caruth Plaza. 9100 N Central Expwy. Suite 117. 696-1933 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2 30: dinner Mon-Thur 5 30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5 30-11 Closed Sun Reservations recommended All credit cards. $$$) 8.0



GOURMET CARRYOUT



Chow To Go. Caterer Mike Hearn has opened a takeout establishment with a few tables available for eating lunch on the premises A blackboard beautifully decorated with colored-chalk drawings advertises the sandwich selections Perhaps the best things at Chow to Go are the baked goods Muffins are available in many flavors, as are the brownies and the extraordinarycookies (2404 Cedar Springs at Maple 871-7145Mon-Fri 10 am-6 pm, Sat 10 am-5 pm Closed Sun. Nocredit cards tor purchases under $25. MC, V; personalchecks accepted $$) 5.5

Marty’s. One of our writers has a fantasy of beingtrapped in Marty’s overnight – enslaved to a nocturnalorgy of pates and pesto. chocolate truffles and marzipan cake, endive and escargots Marty’s has, it’s safeto say, everything for the needit-now gourmet, including fresh herbs when they’re unavailable elsewhere, a salad assortment that is evergreen, a changing medley of fresh carryout entrees and an enviableselection of accompanying wines (3316 Oak Lawn526-4070 MonSat 10 am-6:30 pm Closed Sun. Allcredit cards. Marty’s charge $$) 6.5

Mirabelle. For anyone who loves to eat. enteringMirabelle is an emotional experience The refrigeratedcases hold the most glorious-looking goodies imaginable. Treasures such as the fruit salad with freshraspberries and the tiny chilled white beets with orangesdon’t come cheap, of course, and there are a few disappointments lurking among all the wonders But the arrayof patés. cheeses and entrees to take out and heat upusually reward any giving in to temptation. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird. Suite 73-74528-7589 TueSat 10:30 am-7pm. Sun & Mon noon-6pm MC. V, AE $$) 6.5



GREEK/MIDDLE EASTERN



Augustus. After a rough start, this Greek/continental restaurant in Addison is making a name tor itself The menu features a large selection of fresh seafood, including shrimp sautéed in garlic butter and some of the tastiest broiled red snapper we’ve ever been served But don’t forget the Greek food The specials of the dayhave proved exceptional, especially the tender marinated lamb chops (15375 Addison Road 239-8105Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner Mon-Sat 5-11. Sun 5-10.MC. V. AE. DC $$$) 7.0

Crackers. We were once crackers about this restaurantin a refurbished old house on McKinney, but our lastvisit didn’t live up to our memories Were glad that themenu concentrates more heavily on the Greek specialties, but they could have been better The spanokopita(spinach pie) was soggy, and the dolmas (stuffed grapeleaves) were undistinguished (2621 McKmney827-1660 Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sal 11am-11:30 pm MC. V. AE $$) 4.5

Kottas. This Greek restaurant has a lovely view of oldlive oak trees and Bachman Lake, with a patio whereyou can dine if the weather is right What more couldyou want7 Well, you can’t get the whole gamut of Greekdishes here, and some of the best-known (such as thespanokopita) can be disappointing But you can get fantastic grilled shrimp, a creamy moussaka and rich desserts (2755 Bachman 351-4592 Mon-Sat 11 am-2amClosed Sun All credit cards $$) 5.5

Little Gus’. Thank goodness for Little Gus, he makeshis Greek specialties live up to their heritage. Themoussaka is at once sharp and sweet and creamy, withlayers of beef and spicy eggplant The taste for theheavy Greek resin wine may be an acquired one, butthe candlelight and food speak a universal language (1916 Greenville 826-4910 Mon-Thur 7 30 am-4 pm &6 9 pm. Fri & Sat 7 30 am-4 pm & 6-10 pm. Sun 9am-1:45 pm No credit cards $$) 6.0

Mr. Shishkabab. Finally Dallas has a really good Middle Eastern restaurant again, and we hope the hard-to-find location won’t jinx it. Mr Shishkabab offers mostlythe basics like the wonderful Middle Eastern dip madefrom chickpeas, dive oil. lemon juice, garlic and sesamepaste called hummus Both the kebabs of lamb andshrimp are delicious, and even a simple steak takes onan international flair here. (9454 Marsh Lane, just northof Northwest Highway 350-9314 Daily 11 am-3 pmand 5:30 pm-11 pm MC. V $$) 6.5

PantelPs. This Lowest Greenville Avenue restaurant and wine bar gets high marks for its mostly Greek menu The gyro pocket sandwich with yogurt dressing, the keftethes (Greek meatballs) and the souvlaki (a Greek version of shish kebab) are all excellent choices (1928 Greenville 823-8711 Mon-Thur 11 am- 1 am. Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. Sun 11 am-12 am MC. V. AE $$) 5.5



INDIAN/ETHIOPIAN



D Kebab’n Kurry. On our last visit, we ordered a mixed grill of the tandoori specialties, and the barbecued meats were all delicious. The lamb in a delicately spicy spinach sauce and the curry of mushrooms and peas were both sublime We love to splurge on one of the Indian desserts-the cakelike cheese fritters called gulab jamun or the cheese patties in cream called roshmalai (401 N Central Expwy. Suite 300. Richardson. 231- 5556; 2620 Walnut Hill Lane. 350-6466 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sal 5 30 10 30: brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2 30 Reservations All credit cards $) 7.5

Queen of Sheba. Ethiopian food is one of the most difficult of the foreign cuisines to become accustomed to. Maybe it’s because everything is served on a huge platter of mjera, the flat bread with a texture of sliced sponge rubber that is plate, fork and staff of life to the Ethiopians. On it come spicy stews such as doro wott (chicken and eggs in a red sauce), accompanied by greens and yogurt (3527 McKmney 521 0491 Mon-Fn 11-11. Sat noon-midnight. Sun noon 11 pm MC. V. AE. DC $) 4.5

Sahib. This was always the most attractive Indian restaurant in town, and now the service adds to the charm instead of detracting from it The food, though no longer extraordinary, is still very good. The appetizers include pakoras (deep-fried, battered vegetables) and samosas (little pastries filled with potatoes and other vegetables). Among the main dishes, we liked thechicken tikkha masala, served in a rich, tomatoeysauce (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur & Sun5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11; Sun brunch: 11:30-3 Allcredit cards. $$$) 5.5

Tan|ore. This Indian restaurant across from Preston-wood Town Center offers lots of pleasures. Most of thedishes, from the spicy fritters and other savory appetizers on the Tanjore tray to the delicious Indianbreads, are cooked with authority. The chicken Tanjore(like chicken tandoori, except that the restaurant lacksa tandoor oven) is moist and delicate, and the spicy curried eggplant and potato dish has plenty of zing.(Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line.960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily6-10; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-3. Bar membershipavailable. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

ITALIAN



Adrlano’s. The delights of salmon-and-goat-cheesepizza don’t seem to have caught on in Dallas the waythey have in Los Angeles. Even if you don’t go forAdriano’s more exotic offerings, you can enjoy pizzawith pancetta (an Italian version of bacon), crispy brownroast chicken or any of a number of other not-too-trendyitems. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 170.871-2262. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight. Closed Sun MC. V,AE. $$) 6.0

Alesslo’s. We tried the soup and pasta of the day asappetizers, and we found the soup (zucchini with freshbasil, sour cream and pine nuts) extraordinary; thepasta (angel-hair noodles with tiny shrimp and fresh tomato), underseasoned. The salad of fresh mozzarellaand tomato was worth the stiff price, and the entrees ofveal Toscana (with artichokes and mushrooms) andgrilled swordfish can’t be beat in Dallas. (4117 LomoAlto. 521-3585. Tue-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Sun & Mon 6-10pm. MC. V. AE. $$$) 7.0

Alfredo Trattoria. Those with a taste for tentacles will find the octopus salad one of the best in the city. Our portions of fettuccine with mushroom and ham were more than generous; the cannelloni and manicotti were somehow robust, yet delicately seasoned; only the lin-guine left something to be desired, falling short of being cooked al dente. (5404 Lemmon. 526-3331. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30;dinner Mon-Thur5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat530-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Alfredo’s. This small pizza joint has attracted a lot ofnotice, and one of the biggest surprises is |ust how farnorth it turns out to be (there’s a lovely view of the Ad-dison airport, way to the south) The pies that Alfredo’smakes have a wonderfully crisp crust, and they’re madeentirely to order. (4043 Trinity Mills at Midway.242- 7135. Mon- Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight,Sun noon-10 pm No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $) 5.0

Bugattl. Even in decline. Bugatti can be worth a visitA salad of marinated octopus was tender and delicate;the tortellini were just chewy enough in their light creamsauce; and the special of mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat was more interesting than the usual clichéd version. (2574 Walnut Hill Lane. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11.Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 5.5

Café Italia. This is strictly an unpretentious storefrontoperation, although there are some nice decorativetouches in the apricot-colored tablecloths and the airywhite metal chairs. The menu mainly offers NorthernItalian dishes, and they are priced at the low end of thelocal scale for this sort of thing, especially at dinner(when prices are about the same as they are at lunch)(5000 Maple 521-0700. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner:Mon-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC,V. AE. $$) 4.5

Camplsl’s. Although the dimly lit dining room iscramped and noisy and the service can be haphazard,the heaping platter of crab claws drenched in garlic butter is, at $9, a bargain; the Italian dishes (we tried vealparmigiana with mostaccioli) are satisfying; and thelocally famous pizza (we went “all the way”) is still thetops in town (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355.827-7711 Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat 11 arn-1 am.Sun 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations lor six or more.No credit cards $$) 4.5

Caprlcclo. Of all the remodeled old houses that haveserved as restaurants in Dallas, this one may have keptits character the best and turned out to be the loveliest.The spaghetti topped with chicken livers is an interestlng choice for those with a taste for giblets, and theangel hair pasta in fresh tomato sauce has a lively tasteof fresh basil. (2616 Maple 871-2004 Lunch: Mon-Fri11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6 pm-midnight.MC. V, AE. DC. Lunch $$, dinner $$$) 5.5

Clao. Although pink neon and a checkerboard-tiledfloor beckoned us inside, the real welcome at Ciao wasits carefully prepared (and amply proportioned) Italianofferings. We tried an appetizer of fettuccme, rich andcreamy with bits of bacon, and a pizza adorned withspinach sautéed in garlic butter and pimentos. (3921BCedar Springs. 5210110 Mon-Fri 11:30 am-midnghl.Sat noon-midnight. Sun 3 pm-midnight. MC, V, AE$$) 6.0

Cremona. Hidden away at the end of Routh Street inOak Lawn, this place gave us one of the most pleasantoutdoor dining experiences we’ve had. The tiny littlerestaurant isn’t elegant or sophisticated, but it is comfortably casual – just the sort of place to take a friend forlunch. (3136 Routh. 871-1115. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11 Closed SunAll credit cards. $$) 5.0

Da Piccolo. At this narrow, slightly unkempt Italianbistro, the fried calaman turned out to be underdoneand chewy. The lasagna tasted of fresh tomato (but little else), and the veal Marsala suffered from a harsh andoverly glutinous sauce. (4537 Cole 521-1191. Wed-Mon 5:30-11 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards $$) 5.0

DiPalma. This crowded deli/wine store/pastry shop/restaurant may be the most exciting and lively Italianrestaurant in Dallas, but it’s hardly the most consistentOur most recent meal had everything from a wonderfulshellfish soup with succulent scallops and shrimp in agarlicky broth to inedibly underdone veal grilled on askewer with chicken and sausage. (1520 Greenville824-4500. Mon- Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11pm. Closed Sun MC, V, AE. $$) 6.0

Ferrari’s. The veal dishes are wonderful here, but on arecent visit, the service was uneven. The veal drenchedin lemon-wine sauce and the fettuccine were worthwaiting for. (1713 Market. 741-5538. Lunch: Mon-Fri11 -2; dinner. Mon- Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11.Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. US) 6.5

Flrenze. The fried calamari are crisp and delicate andcome with a fresh-tasting light tomato sauce, and theoyster appetizer (the mollusks out of their shells, basking in a creamy golden sauce) is unusual and delicious.The green tortellini in a rosy sauce are as good as anyin town, but main dishes can be dull. (9820 N. Central,Suite 504. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun6-10:30. 373-4700. V, AE, DC. $$$) 6.0

II Sorrento. In this dimly lit dining room, decorated inan Italian piazza motif that might be a bit medieval forsome tastes, we enjoyed appetizers of mushroom capsstuffed with crab meat and baked eggplant adornedwith shrimp and clams. The swordfish steak was trulyexemplary, although the veal entree we tried was a trifle tough. (8616 Turtle Creek Blvd. 352-8759 Sun-Fri 5:30-11 pm. Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0

La Bella. This cozy neighborhood restaurant has a lotof potential. We say that because the entrees – exceptfor veal dishes-are superb, but the soup (with cannedveggies) and salad (of white iceberg lettuce) are dismalin comparison. (6757 Arapaho, Suite 721. 991-2828.Lunch: Tue-Fri&Sun 11:30-2;dinner: Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-10, Fri 5:30-11, Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All creditcards. $$) 4.5

La Tosca. La Tosca is still the same lovable, frustrating place it has always been-just as you think you are experiencing one of the great Italian meals of your life, along come a dish or two to disappoint you. On our last visit, the octopus salad was perfectly tender and flavorful, the crespelle (Italian crêpes) beautifully filled andseasoned; the tortellini alia nonna ideally creamy. Butthen the shrimp provinciale and the veal scallopstopped with cheese proved decidedly lackluster. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Sun 6-10:30 pm. ClosedMon,Reservations Tue-Thur & Sun only. All credit cards.$$$) 7.0

La Trattoria Lombardl. From our entrees of shrimp(sautéed in garlic butter) and veal (breaded and toppedwith cheese and tomato sauce) to the delicious dessertof homemade cappuccino pie. this pleasant restaurant excels. The candlelit green and white interior ischarming, as is the attentive service. (2916 N Hall.823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All creditcards. $$$) 6.0

Mario’s. Red velvet walls, classical music and water-colors of game birds give this Italian restaurant itslongstanding reputation for ritziness. Perfectly preparedbeef tournedos make this place more than just a finepurveyor of pasta and veal. (135 Turtle Creek Village,Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30pm. All credit cards. $$$) 6.5

Massimo da Mllano. Essentially, this is an Italianbakery, with cases filled with tempting breads of allsorts, baskets of cookies and sybaritic trays of pastries.Massimo da Milano also has a selection of other foods:You will find many variations on the theme of breaddough with savory toppings (none, though, is much likethe pizza we are used to), pasta salads and a couple ofhot dishes like a lasagna rich with a creamy besciamellasauce. (5579 W Lovers Lane. 351-1426. Tue-Thur 10am-9 pm, Fri-Sat 10 am-11 pm, Sun 10 am-9 pm. MC,V. $)6.0

Pizzeria Uno. The pizzas come in three sizes (even the smallest is quite substantial), and they arrive at the table in heavy iron pots that are almost like skillets. The crustis at once doughy and crisp, and it contains inch-highmixtures of tomato, cheese and meats. (4002 Belt Line.991-8181. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am. Sat & Sun noon-2 amMC. V, AE. $$) 5.0

Prego Pasta House. Although Prego is a bit hard topeg -with a casual menu reminiscent of Campisi’sserved in a simple, elegant setting-that hasn’t affectedits popularity. You can dine on such delicacies aslinguine with white clam sauce and chicken breast pic-cata or opt for the inexpensive (and always enjoyable)pizza. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri11 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm.All credit cards. $$) 5.0

Rlstorante Lombardl. We returned to one of our favorite Italian restaurants anticipating the usual warm ambience, charming service and delectable food. To our dismay, the food wasn’t up to standard. Our tried-and-true favorite pasta, tortellini di parma, wasn’t as creamy as we remembered, and the grilled shrimp in garlic butter was dry and flavorless, but the desserts were still sinfully good. (Adelstein Plaza, 15501 Dallas Pkwy at Arapaho. 458-8822 Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$) 6.0

D Ristorante Savino (formerly Ristorante Valentino). Our last meal here was marked by anelegant simplicity. The lasagna contained tinybay scallops and a light cheese (and no tomatoes, ofcourse), and the cavaletti proved to be small elongatedshells sauced with fresh tomato and basil. The scallopsof veal were crowned with wild mushrooms, and a vealchop was anointed with a delicate marsala sauce. (2929N Henderson. 826-7804 Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri &Sat 5:30-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$) 7.5

Ristorants Vlncenzo. The pasta selections are unusual, ranging from spaghetti with julienne eggplant to small pasta shells in a sauce rich with ricotta Maincourses include a flavorful grilled swordfish steak witha sauce loaded with olives and garlic, chicken toppedwith Swiss cheese and mushrooms and classics suchas scampi and veal (with ham in a brown sauce fleckedwith sage). (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 165742-3872 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards.>$$$) 6.0

Sergio & Luciano. The pasta dishes and the veal are the two main reasons to try this tasteful restaurant/bar on Addison’s restaurant row. The lingume dishes come with a bewildering array of sauces, and the veal sautéed with brandy, cream sauce and truffles was superbly and delicately seasoned. Try some of the specials, as wellas the ingenious salads. (The Quorum, 4900 Belt Line.Suite 250- 387-4441 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10. Allcredit cards. $$$$) 6.5

Sflzi. The burgeoning West End historical district nowhas three Italian restaurants within one block. Thenewest, Sfizi, is an unpretentious cafe with high-techdecorations and plain concrete floors. One of the principal offerings is pizza-delicious with thick but verycrisp crusts. Other dishes range from adequate friedcalamari to a tasty baked ziti casserole. (1718 Market698-9390 Mon- Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun11-11. All credit cards. $$) 5.0

JAPANESE/KOREAN



Fujl-Ya. This tiny Japanese restaurant looks moreauthentic than it once did (there is now a kind of sushibar), and the food remains a pleasant introduction to thisAsian cuisine. There are the usual combinations of tern-pura and tenyaki, plus more out-of-the-way items likeyaki soba (slightly spicy Japanese noodles), shabushabu (simmered beef slices and vegetables) andgrilled fish (13050 Coit 690-8396 Lunch: Mon-Sat11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sal 5:30-11MC. V, AE $$) 5.0

Kobawoo. This Korean restaurant reopened after afire last year. It’s bigger (if not fancier) than before, andthe food seems better than ever The Korean barbecued beef, bulgoki. is good here, as are the fiery-hotpickled vegetables such as kimchee Kobawoo alsooffers a number of more unusual dishes, such as thewhole fried fish Korean-style, which we found delicious.(3109 Inwood at Cedar Springs. 351-6922 Mon-Fri11 am-10 pm, Sal noon-10 pm, Sun 1-10 pm. MC. V,AE, $$) 6.0

Kobe Steaks. One of the most popular places along the Addison strip, this restaurant combines food and show in one event. Japanese cooks who look like samurai chop and flip pieces of beef, seafood and vegetables on a teppan yaki grill with martial abandon. (TheQuorum, 5000 Belt Line, Suite 600. 934-8150 Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Mr. Sushi. This cozy but stylish nook is far and awayour favorite Japanese restaurant. The sushi bar boastsa vast variety of fish and shellfish, and everything we’vetried has been impeccably fresh and flavorful. At thetables, the service is warm and efficient, and standardJapanese dishes such as tempura, chicken teriyaki andkara age (fried marinated chicken chunks) receivecareful treatment. (The Quorum, 4860 Belt Line, Ad-dison. 385-0168. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10. Allcredit cards $$) 6.5

Royal Tokyo. Royal Tokyo has something for everybody: tatami rooms for those who want comparative authenticity, hibachi tables for those who want a show, a sushi bar for those who crave raw fish and even a piano bar for those who just want a drink. (7525 Greenville. 368-3304. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, Sun 11 30-2:30; dinner: Sun 5:30-10:30, Mon 6-11, Tue- Thur 6-11:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. All credit cards. $$) 5.0

Sakura. Sushi may come and sushi may go, but this authentic Japanese (and Korean) restaurant has become a Dallas staple. If you like raw fish, the sushi plate is a winner -a generous and tasty array ranging from salmon and whitefish to octopus. (7402 Greenville. 361-9282. Mon 5:30-11:30 pm, Tue-Sun 5:30 pm-1:30am. Reservations recommended on weekends. Allcredit cards. $$) 5.5

Shogun of Japan. This tiny imitation of a Japanese inn,located a bit south of Love Field, even smells new withits freshly varnished wood. But its approach to Japanese dining in America is mostly as old-fashioned asthat of its sister restaurant, Royal Tokyo. The emphasisis on Americanized combination dinners-a bit of tem-pura, a bit of teriyaki and the like. (5738 Cedar Springsnear Inwood. 351 2281. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 6-11.Fri& Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5:30-10:30.All credit cards. $$) 4.5



MEXICAN



A.J. Gonzalez. The West End finally has a Mexicanrestaurant. The decor is simple but attractive, and thesame might be said of the food. If you have a yen for old-fashioned Tex-Mex, you could do a lot worse than tomake the trek here. (1701 Market. 651-9507 Mon-Thur11 am-3 pm & 5:30- 10 pm, Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5:30-11pm, Sat 11 am-11 pm. $$) 5.5

Baja Louie’s Grill & Cantina. A better than-average union of ferns and fiesta, this singles spot offers predictable but pleasant Tex-Mex combinations. Viva la Mex-idisco! (The Corner Shopping Center, 8021 Walnut Hill at Central Expwy. 361-5192 Mon-Thur 11 am-11:30 pm, Fri 11 am-12:30am, Sat 11:30 am-12:30 am. Sun11:30-11:30. MC, V. AE, DC $) 5.5

Blue Goose Cantina. Exposed heating ducts, bareconcrete floors, cases of Mexican beer everywhere anda few exotic cacti give the Blue Goose a kind of high-tech-Mex atmosphere. The menu looks challenging,too. with everything from quail to lobster available grilledover mesquite. but the cooking often seems perfunctory. (2905 Greenville Ave 823-8339 Mon-Fri 11-2:30& 5:30-11, Sat 11 am-2am,Sun 11 am-11 pm.$$) 4.5

Café Cancun. Those of us who eat out fondly remember the black beans and the tangy mole. But as manyfavorite restaurants do, Cancun reached a degree ofsuccess that demanded a decision-expand or becontent – and it expanded. While the above-mentionedstaples remain excellent, some of the polish and all-around quality has faded. (4131 LomoAlto, 559-4011;Caruth Plaza, Park Lane at Central Expwy. 369-3712.Sun noon- 10 pm, Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri 11-11, Sat5- 11 pm at Lomo Alto location; Mon- Thur 11 am-10 pm,Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 1130 am-10 pm at Caruth Plazalocation. MC, V, AE. $$) 5.5

Café Rlncón. The queso is not overwhelmingly cheesy;the jalapenos have a sweat factor of eight, and thecheese on the nachos has a stretch factor of seven,although the meat is slightly salty. The snapper Veracruz is the pescado de resistance: one of the juiciest,meatiest fish imaginable resplendent in a delicious herband tomato sauce. (2818 Harry Hines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri 11:30 am-midnight. Sat 4 pm-midnight Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$) 7.0



Cantina Laredo. This new place in Addison purports to serve comida casera (real Mexican home cooking). Well, if most of what Cantina Laredo serves isn’t quite that authentic, it certainly has things on its large menu that few other upscale Metroplex Mexican restaurantsserve. (4546 Belt Line, Addison. 4580962. Sun-Thur11 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Cantu’s. This pleasant, sparkling-clean restaurantserves some of the mildest Mexican food we’ve evertasted. It’s just right for a beginner, though not too exciting for a true lover of hot and spicy dishes. (5290 BeltLine, Suite 132, Addison. 991-9105. Tue-Thur11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. All creditcards. $$) 4.5

Casa Rosa. The food is obviously carefully cooked: The tamales taste homemade, and the enchiladas are rolled to order But it all seems a little too prim for therobust pleasures of TexMex And we don’t thinkchicken fajitas should come with melted cheese on top.(Inwood Village. Inwood at Lovers Lane. Suite 165350-5227 Mon-Thur 11:30 am-2 pm & 5-10 pm, Fri11:30 am-2 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Sun11:30am-10pm. All credit cards $$) 4.5

Chiquita. A visit to Chiquita, one of Dallas’ best Mexican restaurants for many years, is always a pleasure We find it hard not to order one of the delicious beef dishes, and on our last visit the filete de la casa. spiked with garlic and peppers and accompanied by a cheese taco and a boiled potato, was splendid (3810 Congress 521- 0721, Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sal 11:30am-11 pm. Closed Sun MC, V. AE. $$) 6.5

Escondido. The name means ’hidden away,’ and thislittle Mexican place could easily be overlooked. It’srather bedraggled on the outside but nicer within.Whether it’s worth searching out if you’re not in theParkland Hospital neighborhood depends on howmuch you appreciate a good value-the TexMex isdependable and offers a lot for the price. (2210 Butler631-9912 Lunch:daily 11-2:dinner:daily5-9. Nocreditcards. $) 4.0

El Gallito. El Gallito isn’t the old-line Mexican place it appears to be. The menu indulges in the fashionable dishes of the day (fajitas are the leading item) Thegrilled steak and the chicken breast basted with garlicbutter are both extremely well-prepared-fresh, smoky-tasting and tender (4202 Ross 826-6681 Mon-Thur11:30 am-midnght. Fri & Sal 11:30 am-2 am. ClosedSun MC. V. AE $$) 4.5

Genaro’a Tropical. The magical ambience here is outof a Thirties movie, and the swordfish kebab is to die forBut a lot of the other dishes, including the much-toutedones based on seafood, can be pretty ordinary Thecrab-meat enchiladas, for instance, are merely fishy.(5875 Live Oak at Skillman 827-9590 Sun-Thur 11am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-midmght. All creditcards $$) 6.0

Gonzalez. Over the years, this funky little Mexicanplace (where you can order and drive through to pickup) has suffered both from overpraise and from toosummary a dismissal Not everybody likes the exoticallyflavored fajitas (the secret is lots of oregano). but we doAnd the burntos made of all sorts of authentic fillings(such as the stews called guiso and carne guisado) arewell worth investigating, (4333 Maple. 528-2960 Daily7 am-9 pm. All credit cards $$) 5.5

Guadalajara. Some of the finest Mexican cooking inDallas can still be found in this classic dive just east ofdowntown On our last visit, we had an excellent mil-anesa (which is rather like a Mexican chicken-friedsteak) and a tasty, if rather tough, steak cooked withgarlic and chile pequin (3308 Ross at Hall 823-9340Sun-Thur 11 am-3 am. Fri & Sat 10 am-3 30 am. Allcredit cards $$) 6.0

Herrara Café. Beneath the water-stained ceiling,hungry folks crowd in for the generic but well-preparedfare of tacos and tamales, enchiladas, rice and beansNeither beer nor margaritas are served, so you’d betterbring your own beer or order a tall glass of iced teabefore trying the hot hot sauce (3902 Maple 526-9427Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm. Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pmClosed Tue No credit cards $) 5.5

J. Pepe Gonzalez. A turquoise and pink decor defines this Oak Lawn establishment as “nouveau-Mex,”’ and the shrimp and spinach enchiladas confirmed our judg-ment. This is a successful hybrid, with a plethora of excellent traditional Tex-Mex dishes sometimes tempered by annoymgly mild sauces (The Quadrangle, 2800Routh 871 0366 Mon- Thur 11 am-230 pm & 5:30-10pm, Fri 1 1 am-230 pm & 5 30-11 pm, Sat noon-11 pm,Sun noon-9 pm. MC. V. AE $$) 5.0

Javier’s. Don’t expect to find TexMex here The menu runs more to fantasies on Mexican themes-steak and seafood with rich sauces made from exotic ingredients – that can be excellent in their own right The steak Can-tinflas. for example (named after the famous Mexican comic), is split laterally, stuffed with cheese and topped with a sauce made of mild chiles anchos (4912 Cole 521-4211 Sun-Thur 5 30-10:30 pm. Fri & Sal 5:30-11:30 pm. Reservations. All credit cards $$$) 6.5

Joe T. Garcia’s. The smell of cooking oil pervades thisplace every time we come here- it even reaches outinto the parking lot It’s too bad that the oil and everything fried in it is so unpleasant, since there’s some verygood cooking going on at the Addison branch of the 1a-mous Fort Worth landmark (4440 Belt Line, Addison458-7373 Mon-Thur 11 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10:30 pm,Fn 5-11 pm, Sat 11-11, Sun 11:30 am-10:30 pm: Sunbrunch: 11-3 MC. V. AE. $$) 4.0

La Botica. La Botica has a gaily painted minibus (theTijuana Limo”) that picks up a minimum of 10 customersand brings them to the restaurant for a fiesta- imbibingmargaritas as they travel The food is standard TexMexthat’s cooked adequately, along with some more authentic and original dishes (1900 N Haskell. 824-2005Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2: dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10 Closed Sun& Mon MC. V. $$) 5.0

La Calle Doce. Sitting in the shadows of the Oak Cliff Bank, this bright, airy house-turned-restaurant is one of the few TexMex spots in the southern part of the city that offers more than the usual fare Among the more authentic specialties, all of the beef dishes are excellent (especially the chile rellenos), and the seafood items (described on the menu as “fresh from the Trinity”) arealso worthy of praise. (415 W 12th St. 941-4304 Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun 11am-8:30 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Las Cazuelas. This interesting restaurant way down on Greenville has unusual Mexican specialties such as guisado de lengua (stewed beef tongue), which has a surprisingly tender, gelatinous texture. For the fainter of heart, there are grilled chicken and fajitas, but we found these marred by an excessive charcoal flavor. (2001 Greenville. 821-0924 Mon & Wed-Fri 5-10 pm. Sat & Sun 9 am- 10 pm. Closed Tue. No credit cards. $$) 4.0

Mariano’s. This Old Town restaurant has undergone some changes during the past few years, including a recent remodeling that has made the place much more airy and attractive. We still love Mariano’s famous frozen margaritas, tostadas and hot sauce, nachos and gua-camole: All are can’t-miss appetizers. But the Tex-Mex entrees were rather ordinary (Old Town, 5500 Greenville at Lovers Lane. 691-3888. Sun-Thur 11:30am-11 pm, Fri&Sat 11:30 am-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$) 4.5

Mario & Alberto. We were in the mood for a fiestawhen we last visited this uptown Mexican restaurant,and it did not disappoint. We delighted in the beefdishes: alambres (Mexican shish kebab), puntas defilete (tiny slivers of beef sautéed with garlic) and filetede la casa (a slice of rare tenderloin topped with herbsand garlic). (Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ Frwyat Preston, Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri&Sat 11:30am-11 pm. ClosedSun.Drinks with $5.50 membership charge. MC. V, AE.$$) 7.0

Mla’s. Every city needs its celebrated holes in the wall,and Mia’s has been Dallas’ for the last year or so. It madeits reputation with the fajitas, which do have a distinctflavor (is it liquid smoke?). The little pots of stewed pinto beans soak up the tastes of smoked pork and cilan-tro. and the standard Tex-Mex numbers are better thanokay. (4418 Lemmon. 526-1020. Mon-Fri 11-2 and5-10. Sat noon-10. No credit cards. $) 5.5

Moctozuma’s. It’s a jungle out there, but no matter how many Mexican restaurants pop up around Dallas, this one will remain a staple of fine Mexican cuisine, from the hot sauce and chips to the “especiales”- specialty “dtshes that make this south-of-the-border menu distinc-tive. (3202 McKinney. 559-3010. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri &Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun 11 am-)’0:30pm. Reservationsfor parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Ninfa’s. Houston’s most famous Mexican restaurantnever fulfilled its plans of being a nationwide chain, butat the remaining local branch you can still sample thedishes that made Ninfa Laurenzo renowned (althoughyou cant be sure that you’ll have them at their best). Thetable salsas are always non-pareil, and we seem to haveconsistent luck with the grilled chicken breast and theagujas (a meaty, fatty cut of rib). (1515 Inwood.638-6865. Mon-Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat & Sun noon-10pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0

On the Border. This cantina is a popular spot, and there’s a reason: The food, especially the fajitas, is very good, and the margaritas are wonderful. We could make a meal of the appetizers: chips and flavorful hot sauce, perfect guacamole and a mouthwatering layered dip of beans, onions, guacamole and sour cream topped with melted cheese. But we find the service frustratingly slow. (3300 Knox. 528-5900; 1350 Northwest Hwy at Saturn, Garland, 686- 7860; 2011 E Cope-land, Arlington, (817) 460-8000 Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight, Fri&Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun 11-11 at Knox location; Sun- Thur 11-11, Fri&Sat 11 am-midnight at Garland and Arlington locations. MC, V, AE. CB. $$) 5.5

Puerto Vallarta. We enjoyed some of the more unusual dishes, such as the vegetarian enchiladas and the chicken Milanesa (a breast beaten thin and sautéed with a bit of garlic). But the standard Tex-Mex items, such as beef enchiladas, tacos and guacamole, were dull, and the fajitas lacked taste. (2525 Wycliff, Suite 126. 522-9173 Mon-Thur 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5:30 pm-4 am, Sat noon-3 pm and 5:30-4 am. Sun 6-10 pm. All credit cards. $$) 5.0

SEAFOOD



D Atlantic Café. Having your own yacht couldn’t be much nicer than the experience of dining here: It’s probably the best seafood restaurant ever to hit Dallas. The Dover sole, simply sautéed, will make converts of even the most resolute landlubbers. (4546 McKinney at Knox 559-4441 Lunch: Mon-Fri & Sun 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sal 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$) 8.5

Bachman Café. We can’t say enough nice things about this comfortable little cafe (especially since it’s owned by a rather large (fellow named Mean Joe Greene). Themenu has a slight hint of New Orleans; anything madewith oysters is a winner. (3049 W Northwest Hwy3510959 Mon-Sat 4:30 pm-1:30 am, Sun 5-10 pm,MC. V. AE. $) 5.0

Best Pacific. This new restaurant wouldn’t attract much notice if it were on McKinney Avenue, but in northwest Garland, it’s enough of a sensation that it has a lot of business on weekends. The two standouts among the entées we sampled were the sautéed scallops-brown and slightly crunchy on top, but tender and juicy within – and the crisp, cornmeal-coated fillets of catfish, which only needed a bit of salt to be excellent. (4750 N Jupiter at Arapaho. Garland 530-1574 Mon-Fri 11 am-230 pm & 5-10 pm, Say 5-10 pm, Sun noon-9 pm. All credit cards; personal checks accepted $$) 5.5



D Café Pacific. Has this bastion of fresh seafood cooked with a continental flair gone New Southwestern on us? The specials of the day we tried were fettuccie (cooked with fresh mussels and julienne peppers) and blackened fillets of salmon and halibut, sauced with an Anaheim pepper beurre blanc. The fish dish was a notable success. The pasta wasn’t, nor was the ceviche of shrimp, lobster and scallops, in which the shellfish were overmarmated and chewy. (Highland Park Village, Preston at Mockingbird, Suite 24. 526-1170. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 30-2:30. Sun 10:30-2:30; dinner Sun- Thur 5:30-10:30. Fn & Sal 5:30-11 MC, V,AE $$$) 8.5

Charley’s Seafood Grill. Charley’s has been around longer than most of the places that grill seafood over mesquite. and it doesn’t make such a big thing of it. Both swordfish and a mixed brochette of shrimp and scallops take well to the treatment. Or, if you like, you can get good fried or sautéed fish instead (5348 Belt Line, Ad-dison. 934-8501 Sun & Mon 11 am-10pm, Tue-Thur11 am-10:30pm, Fri & Sat 11-11 MC, V. AE. $$) 5.5

Fishmonger’s Oyster Bar. The food is Louisiana style, and it compares favorably with some of the middle-rank places in New Orleans. We’re crazy about the grilled redfish special and the odd but satisfying sole stuffedwith whole shrimp, crab and cheese. The fried seafoodis fine-although, like the gumbo and even the fries, itcan be overly spicy -and the bread pudding is wonderful. (1915 N Central Expwy, Suite 600. Piano423-3699 Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri 11-11, Sat&Sunnoon-11 pm All credit cards $$) 5.5

Jozef’s. This pleasant seafood restaurant, with its smalldining room and rough wood walls, is warm yet elegant.The scallops in cream sauce had a wonderful flavor,but they were rather tough And the Maine lobster waslikewise sweet in flavor yet chewy in texture. (2719McKinney. 826-5560; 2460 Walnut Hill Lane. 351-5365 Lunch: Mon-Fn 11-2.30; dinner Sun-Thur 6-10.Fri & Sat 6-11 at McKmney location Lunch Mon-Fri11 -2:30; dinner: Mon- Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11 at WalnutHill location Reservations recommended All creditcards $$$) 5.5

D Newport’s. This stylish, handsome West Endpurveyor of seafood isn’t always perfect, butyou can usually count on at least one major success per meal. We were impressed with the crabcocktail – long strips of meat from the leg served with asweetish sauce for dipping – and the grilled Gulf snapper More ordinary were the ceviche and the troutamandine (703 McKinney in the Brewery 9540220Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. DC$$$) 7.5

Rocco Oyster Bar. Our friendly, efficient waitress suggested the house specials (displayed on a blackboardabove the serving bar), so we tried that trendy favorite,blackened redfish, and a steamed Maine lobster Thelobster was rather tough, but the redfish was a sensation, with a spicy, char-broiled flavor and an incrediblytender texture (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226 Tue-Thur 11:30am-10pm. Fri-Sun 11:30 am-11 pm ClosedMon MC. V. AE $$) 5.5

S& D Oyster Co. This often-crowded haven for landlocked lovers of the bounty of the sea never fails to satisfy its large and loyal clientele Everything is prepared perfectly here, trom the seafood gumoo(chock-full of oysters) to the broiled redfish and hushpuppies that aren’t too greasy (2701 McKinney.823-6350 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sal 11-11.Closed Sun. No reservations MC, V $$) 5.5

Turtle Cove. We have experienced wide swings of response to the food at Turtle Cove, and don’t believe it’sbecause we’re moody Our best choice was a broiledswordfish steak, but the pleasure we took in it (and inwine from the remarkable all-Amencan wine list) wasn’tenough to compensate for our other disappointments.(2731 W Northwest Hwy. 350-9034 Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11 All credit cards $$$) 5.5



SOUTHEAST ASIAN



Mai’s. There are some good dishes on the menu – thebeef in coconut has a pleasant curry flavor, and thevarious stir-fried dishes like chicken with snow peas havecrisp vegetables and a peppery punch But you can’texpect to enjoy the full range of Vietnamese cookinghere-the beef with lemongrass, for instance, had narya sign of that delectable herb (4812 Bryan, Suite 100826-9887 Sal-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Wed-Fri 11 am-10 pm.Closed Mon & Tue MC. V $) 4.5

Sawatdee. Thai cuisine has influences from all over and offers something to please everyone Appetizers include delicious grilled, skewered pork with a spicy peanut sauce and whole shrimp wrapped up in thin noodle dough and deep-fried Our shrimp in pepper paste was quite innocuous – and delicious – but some Thai dishes leave you spouting fire like a real, live dragon (4503 Greenville at Yale 373-6138 Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner- daily 5-10:30 All credit cards $$) 6.0

Thai Lanna. This unassuming place has been touted as the best Thai restaurant in Dallas We enjoyed the hospitable welcome and admired the very extensive menu, but we didn’t think the cooking was all that good. (4315Bryan. 827-6478 Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10pm, Sat & Sun 11 am-10 pm. MC, V. $$) 4.0



SOUTHERN



Bubba’s. We continue to come here for the crisp, juicyfried chicken and the sweetish, yeasty rolls (drippingwith honey, if you like). But the rest of Bubba’s food isproblematical. The selection of vegetables is commendable, but the greens, green beans and pinto beans areall cooked (authentically) with salt pork, and all come outsaltier than any sailor’s language. (6617 Hillcrest.373-6527. Mon-Fri 6:30 am-3 pm & 4-10 pm, Sat& Sun6:30 am-10 pm. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $) 4.5

Dick’s Last Resort. For a place that is basically a bar.Dick’s Last Resort serves amazingly good food. Thebeef ribs are huge and meaty, a bit sweet. The spit-turned barbecued chicken is sensational, and the friedcatfish fillets are even better-crunchy and juicy. (1701 N Market, Suite 110, RossatRecord. 747-0001. Lunch:11:30-2:30 Mon-Fri, no lunch hours Sat & Sun; dinner5:30-10:30. Sun- Thur, 5:30-midnight Fri &Sat.$$) 6.5

Dovle’s. With so much that’s new in Addison. it’s a realtreat to spend an evening dining in the old, elegantranch house of soldier/actor Audie Murphy. But, frankly, we think Dovie’s charges too much for the ambience.The specials of the day, at $15 each, included a tastytenderloin and a huge slice of char-broiled swordfish.(14671 Midway. 233-9846. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-9:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-10, Sun 5:30-9;Sun brunch: 11-2:30 All credit cards. $$) 5.5

Gentile’s Bishop Grill. Area grandmothers may nowretire. In this frill-less, cafeteria-style refuge, lunchborders on a religious experience. Aside from a potluckat First Baptist, we know of no place where you canleave so happily stuffed for less cash. (308 N Bishop.946-1752. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. Nocredit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 6.0

Highland Park Cafeteria. A trip to the Prestonwood-area location of this old Dallas institution can be a bitdisappointing. Some of the most famous dishes, such asthe unique chopped spinach salad with horseradish, areusually not available, and the fried chicken often fails to come up to the standard of the original Knox-Cole loca-tion. (4611 Cole at Knox, 526-3801; Sakowitz Village,5100 Belt Line at Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600, 934-8800Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm at Cole location; Mon-Sat 11 am-8pm. Sun 10:45 am-3 pm at Sakowitz Village location. Nocreditcards; MC, V, AE for takeout orders of more than$10 at Sakowitz Village. $) 6.0

The Mecca. Best noted for its whopping breakfasts, theMecca also puts a hearty lunch on the table. Chicken-fried steak is a standby, of course, but there are otherdown-home things such as ham and cabbage. (10422Harry Hines. 352-0051. Mon-Fri 5:30 am-3 pm, Sat 5:30am-2 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $) 4.5

Southern Kitchen. All the shrimp, crab meat andoysters you can eat (and that’s just for appetizers!) is apowerful draw. It matters little that the supposed maincourse (fried and barbecued chicken, fried seafood andtrimmings, again in unlimited quantities) is just a bit better than good cafeteria level. If you prefer, you can ordera steak or broiled swordfish instead. (6615 E NorthwestHwy. 368-1658; 2356 W Northwest Hwy, 352-5220Mon-Sat 5:30-10 pm, Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$) 4.5



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



Boulevard Café. This is urban populism at its most appealing, with diners of every description. They come forthe sandwiches (good burgers and grilled chicken) andthin, honest steaks at reasonable prices. (367 W. Jefferson. 941 -2812 Mon- Thur11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat Ham-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V. AE, DC. $) 4.5

Chip’s. What a great hangout! Chip’s has all the ingredients: iced-down longnecks in an old-fashioned cooler near the door, a barrel of peanuts for munching, neonbeer signs on the wall and a TV. Of course, there are alsosome great burgers, made with a third of a pound ofbeef, sliced onions, pickles, tomatoes and assorted condiments and sauces-all on a grilled poppy-seed bun.(4501 N Central Expwy. 526-1092. Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm.Fri & Sat11-11.No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 5.0

Chuggs. Chuggs has opened a back room and put upa mural, but it’s still the same lovable place we discovered last year. The Chicago-style sandwiches aresomething special: Vienna hot dogs, huge hamburgers,definitive Reubens. (730 W Centerville, Garland.686-1500. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11 am-5 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) 6.5

Jason’s. Having been tipped off that things hadchanged for the better at Jason’s, we went back to findthat things were pretty much la même chose. The sameold things included an overpriced, underseasonedshrimp cocktail, a rather chewy New York-cut sirloin anda decent cut of prime rib. (Sakowitz Village, 5100 BeltLine at Dallas Pkwy. 960-2877. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. ClosedSun. All credit cards. $$$) 4.5

Joe’s. Almost everything is mesquite-grilled, from lamb and pork chops to all sorts of seafood. The basics are done well – when was the last time you had a good version of grilled calf’s liver? – but we do occasionally yearnfor a flight of fancy. (4515 Travis. 528-8880 Tue-Fri11:30 am-11 pm Sat-Sun 11-11. Closed Monday Allcredit cards. $$-$$$) 6.5

The Palm. Our first visit to the Palm was a bit disappointing, in view of the expectations raised by a $72 lobster-or, for that matter, a $20 steak Now we knowwhat to order (filet mignon) and how much (one steakfor two people) We also sampled the pork chops, whichwere flavorful and moist (701 Ross 6980470 Mon-Thur 11:30am-10:30pm. Fri 11:30am-11 pm, Sat5-11pm. Sun 5-9:30 pm. All credit cards $$$$) 6.0

Prospect Grill. This Lowest Greenville restaurant is aquaint dining spot, but we have mixed feelings aboutthe food and service We did enjoy the mild chicken fa-jitas and the mesquite-grilled chicken-breast sandwich,but our order was served haphazardly (2100 Greenville. 828-2131. Daily 11 am-2 am. AE. $$) 5.0

Purdy’s. The format is familiar: big burgers, hot dogsand steak sandwiches ordered at a window, thendressed by the diner at a great big “fixin’s” bar. Thesandwiches are of high quality (although the meat in thesteak sandwiches could be more tender), and thehomemade buns are grilled. (The Quorum, 4812 BeltLine. 960-2494 Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30pm, Fri&Sat11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V. AE $) 4.5

D Ruth’s Chris Steakhousa. Reward food witha vengeance is what you get here: the biggest,tastiest steaks imaginable. We lean toward therib-eye, which is anything but lean. It is rich, marbledand sinful, and we never even take home a doggie bag.(6940 Greenville 691-6940 Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30. Sat& Sun 5-11:30 pm All credit cards $$$) 7.5

Snuffer’s. This small, casual restaurant next to theGranada Theater is one of those rare places where youfeel at home immediately Snuffer’s has a limited butsomewhat varied menu (burgers, chip-and-dip combinations, salads-even peel-and-eat shrimp). Everything we tried was wonderful (3526 Greenville. 826-6850 Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun noon-2 am. V, AE.DC $) 5.5

Trail Dust Steakhouse. Almost more a theme park than a restaurant, this is the place in Dallas to take a visitor who wants to see the Texas of his childhood fantasies. The reasonably priced steaks, which are invit-ing-looking as they all cook over a big fire, are good ifyou don’t mind their being doctored up with brushed-on barbecue sauce (10841 Composite 357-3862Mon-Thur 11 am-2 pm&5-11 pm, Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5pm-midnght. Sat 5 pm-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. MC,V. AE $$) 5.5



LAS COLINAS/MID CITIES



Café Acapulco. Even the local eateries smack of theburgeoning affluent environment, which sets the stagefor Café Acapulco. a Mexican cafe done in smart whitestucco arches and cool tiles We found both the beefand chicken fajitas worthy of recognition. (4001 GreenOaks Blvd.. Arlington (817) 572-4471 Mon-Thur 11am-10 pm, Fri 11 am-11 pm. Sat noon-11 pm, Sunnoon-10 pm AE, MC. V. $$) 5.0



D RBVISITS



Cafe Cipriani. A brassand-glass elevator sets thetony mood, but the food sometimes is a letdownThe mixed seafood appetizer and risotto with wildmushrooms were fine, but the crab cannelloni werebland and the fresh lobster came served over ashockingly (and unappetizingly) bright greenspinach sauce (220 E Las Colinas Blvd. Irving8690713 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 ClosedSun. Allcredit cards. $$$) 6.0



China Terrace. With its rosewood antiques and assortment of fine Oriental ornaments, China Terrace creates the perfect atmosphere to enjoy fine Chinese dining. We savored the beef with broccoli and indulged in prawns so artfully arranged on our plates that it seemed a shame to devour everything so quickly. (5435 N Mac-Arthur, Irving. 258-1113. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun 11 am-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$) 6.0

D Enjolie. The menu here hasn’t changed a greatdeal, but the promotion of a new chef in thekitchen some months back seems to haveblunted the edge of the cooking. The duck pate withprunes had little flavor, and the lobster in an appetizersalad was overcooked and chewy. The little rounds ofvenison and of veal in our entrees lacked seasoning,and the accompanying sauces didn’t wow us. (Manda-lay Four Seasons Hotel. 221 E Las Colinas Blvd. Irving.556-0800. ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$) 9.0

Flying Lobster. Grapevine is undergoing a major facelift these days, and the Flying Lobster, with its fresh entrees and dockside decor, is among the community’snewest and best offerings. The lobster is flown in dailyfrom Maine; the crab comes from the Gulf. The entreeslack imagination, but freshness makes up for creativity.(1321 W Northwest Hwy, Grapevine. (817)481-4135.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat5-11. MC. V, AE: personal checks accepted. $$) 6.0

Hunan Dynasty. The shrimp toast we sampled had atingly flavor of fresh ginger, and the fried dumplings(with a tasty filling and slightly crunchy skin) came witha garlicky sauce for dipping. The main courses demonstrated that Hunan Dynasty can execute the new standard Chinese menu with flair. (1111 W Airport Frwy atMacArthur, Suite 201, Irving. 2520126 Mon-Thur 11am-10pm, Fri 11-11, Satnoon-11 pm. Sun noon-10 pm.All credit cards. $$) 6.0

La Dell. The bountiful assortment of appetizers at thisLebanese restaurant includes some old favorites suchas humus tahini (a dip made from chickpeas) and babaganouf (a dip made from eggplant), but they don’t havethe piquant flavor we recall from the owner’s previousplace, Khalil’s Beirut. The most successful entree isperhaps the kibbie nayeh-tartar-raw beef and bulgur wheat ground together and served cold. (5433 NMacArthur, Las Colinas. 258-1163. Mon 11 am-6 pm,Tue- Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. Allcredit cards. $$) 5.0

Thai Café. This tiny, cheery mom-and-pop operationturns out very pleasant versions of most of the standardSiamese dishes, and some that are unusual as well.Soups manage a wonderful variety simply by a fewchanges of ingredients-large slices of chicken or porkfloat with bean thread or bean curd, peppery caulifloweror savory pickled mustard green. Our favorite amongthe main dishes we have tried is the pork fried with garlicand pepper. (1704 W Irving Blvd. 259-3124. Sun-Sat 10am-10 pm. No credit cards, but personal checks accepted. $-$$) 5.5

The Verona. Linguine pescatore (with shrimp,scallops, mussels and crab claws in a white wine sauce)proved to be a light but substantial entree. Thescallopine alla Toscana was heavier but delicious withmushrooms, ham, artichokes and capers in a lightcream sauce. (226 Lincoln Square Shopping Center,Arlington. (817)861-9492. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. AE, MC, V.$$-$$$) 6.0



FORT WORTH



Aventino’s. This small West Side Italian inn is becoming a consistent winner with us. On our last visit, we had some of the best tortellini in Fort Worth – perhaps the entire Metroplex. The melted-cheese appetizer (to dunk piping-hot bread in) was gooey and rich; and the live classical guitar music was a perfect backdrop for our dessert of espresso and coconut flan. (3206 Winthrop Ave. (817) 731-0711. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner: Mon-Thur5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Sun 5-9. MC, V,A£. $$) 5.0

D REVISITS



Angelo’s. How much of Angelo’s reputation is warranted and how much mere mystique? We foundthe sliced barbecue and the chopped beef sandwich both lacking in smoky flavor on our most recent excursion. (2533 White Settlement Rd. (817)3320357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm- Closed Sun. Nocredit cards. $) 6.0



Benito’s. This funky place on the near South Side offers real Mexican dishes rather than Tex-Mex. A wait of only a few minutes will produce an appetizer of sopes, a cousin of the chalupa with a thicker base of cornmealdough. Fajitas come with grilled scallions in true Mexican fashion, but they can be a bit tough. (1450 WMagnolia. (817)332-8633. Sun-Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 10am-3 am. No credit cards. $) 6.0



Calhoun Street Oyster Co. The decor and the menu at this place are borrowed from New Orleans, but the service we encountered during a recent visit had an in-, viting Texas flair. If you’re not set on oysters- the house specialty-choose from the selections on the blackboard, where fresh seafood items vary daily. (210 E Eighth at Calhoun. (817) 332-5932 Mon- Thur 11 am-10 pm,Fri & Sat 11 -11,Sun 5-9:30 pm.MC, V,AE.$$) 5.0

The Carriage House. Our grilled swordfish was takenfrom the flames not a moment too soon, but the largetenderloin suffered under a suffocating blanket of peppercorns. Despite the competition of youngerrestaurants, the Old Guard Carriage House remainsone of the most popular places in Fort Worth (5136CampBowie. (817) 7322873 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. Allcredit cards. $$$) 6.5

Crystal Cactus. The appetizer of salmon wrappedaround ratatouille sparkled, and so did our veal Diane,with a sauce that was both piquant and delicate. The atmosphere, which is the epitome of highbrow Texaschic, is relaxed-maybe too relaxed, given the extremelevels of noise that tables close to the bar area have tosuffer. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 815 Main. (817)870-1234Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11; Sun brunch:10:30-2. All credit cards. $$$) 7.0

Edelweiss. The crowds at this cavernous German-stylerestaurant attest to its continuing popularity. The food isgenerally of high quality: The heaping sauerbratenplates continue to please, and we found the ribs (bothpork and beef) delectable. (3801 A Southwest Blvd(817) 738-5934. Mon-Thur 5-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 4.0

El Rancho Grande. We were kept waiting for morethan 20 minutes before our drink order was even taken,despite a bevy of waitresses hovering over nearbytables. Otherwise, the fajitas and enchiladas were still inour good graces, and the light-as-a-feather chips remain No. 1 with us. (1400 N. Main. (817) 624-9206Mon-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pmClosed Sun. All credit cards. $$) 4.5

D Escape. The chef has not lost his touch at thisrecently reopened restaurant. From the beginning shrimp appetizer, through the heavenlylobster bisque soup and house salad, to the deliciousveal Oscar and closing cheesecake, our appetites wereamply satisfied (6417 Wellington (817) 738-9704 Sun-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. All credit cards $$$) 7.5

D Hedary’s. The assortment of appetizers was nothing short of spectacular, with definitive eggplant and chickpea dips, falafel, vegetables and salads. We confess to some disappointment with our main dishes, though. Our skewered lamb was tough, and our frarei (chicken broiled in olive oil) didn’t taste as boldly of garlic as we remembered. (3308 Fair-field at Camp Bowie. (817)731 -6961. Tue- Thur & Sun5-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$) 7.5

Joe T. Garcla’s. In combing the Southwest in searchof the perfect margarita, our tequila elixir was found nextto a plate of enchiladas, beans and rice in this celebrated family-style restaurant. The food – the standarddinner plus a few choices such as steak a la Mexi-cana – was, as always, great. (2201 N Commerce (817)626-4356 Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat11-11. Sun2-10 pm. No credit cards. $$) 6.5

Kincaid’s. This old-time grocery store with the grill in theback is a comforting slice of the old days. And Kincaid’sfamous burgers are the best part: They’re thick, flavorful and stuffed with such tried-and-true additions as lettuce, tomato, onions and mustard. (4901 Camp Bowie(817) 7322881 Mon-Sat 10am-6:15pm. Closed SunNo credit cards. $) 6.5

La Poele d’Or. This restaurant, in its storefront location,is very small, with crowded tables, slow service anddecor that’s nondescript at best. But the food is stillworthy of consideration. We tried sautéed fillets oforange roughy, a fish from New Zealand, and foundthem delicate, and the specialty of the house (calledshrimp Vance) is divine- lightly bartered and crunchycrustaceans in a buttery sauce. (5718 Locke. (817)738-6670 Mon- Thur 6:30-10 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm Allcredit cards. $$$) 6.0

Le Café Bowie. This Fort Worth favorite, which is now beginning to show its age a bit, maintains a high quality in the evenings by keeping things simple. Everyone gets soup and salad as starters, and the entrees are mostly variations on beef tenderloin and veal scallops.(4930 Camp Bowie (817) 735-1521 Lunch: Wed-Fri11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11;Sun brunch: noon-2 MC, V. personal checks accepted$$$) 6.0



D REVISITS



Michel. For the second time running, we foundthings just a bit below par on our last visit Thepackets of smoked salmon surrounding a fishmousse did not strike us as a happy inspiration, andthe sauce on our lobster was thin and tasteless(3851 CampBowie (817)732-1231 Tue-Thur6-10pm, Fri & Sat seatings at6&9 pm. Closed Sun &Mon. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards $$$$) 7.0



Reflections. Tall columns shaped like lotuses grow outof the tiny reflecting pool that flows through the centerof this sophisticated hotel restaurant The food invitesmeditation, too: We found the lobster bisque and thelamb served with lamb sausage especially worthy (200Main. (817) 870-9894 Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30 pm. Sat6:30-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards $$$) 7.0

Sardine’s. When the uncontrollable urge for steamingplates of pasta hits you, don’t waste a minute: Get overto Sardine’s, squeeze info one of the booths or the manytiny tables and feast on a delectable order of spaghetticarbonara-a pasta lover’s delight of cream, hunks ofbacon, mushrooms, onions and eggs. (3410 CampBowie. (817) 332-9937 Sun- Thur 5:30-11:30 pm, Fri &Sat 5:30 pm-1 am. All credit cards $$) 6.0



D REVISITS



D St. Emilion. There’s no doubt in our mindsany more-this is Fort Worth’s premier restaurant and a wonderful bargain. Theshrimp provencal is a masterpiece, and everythingfrom salads with bacon and walnuts to the berrytarts is most worthwhile (3617 W Seventh, FortWorth (817) 737-2781 Mon-Fri 11:30 am-230 pm& 6-10:30 pm, Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V.AE $$$) 8.0

Tour*. The seafood gumbo was really not a soup-the shellfish were sauced with a bit of okra and a lot of spicy tomato. The chicken with wine vinegar and garlic proved to be an interesting version of a nouvelle classic.The desserts-boule de neige and lime mousse – wereinteresting but unexciting (3429B W Seventh St (817)870-1672 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10 Closed Sun Reservations recommended. MC, V,AE $$$) 6.5



D REVISITS



Szechuan. We were disappointed that the foodhere on our last visit didn’t at all measure up to ourmemories, the whole fish in a spicy sauce wasmealy in texture, and the Peking duck and orange-flavor beef were both very ordinary (5712 Locke offCamp Bowie (817) 738-7300 Mon-Thur 11:30am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pmMC V. AE $$) 6.0



Tuscany. The fish soup was served in a crock brimming with scallops, shrimp and pasta. Less adventuresome types can’t miss with the classic veal parmigiana,served with a side dish of pasta; the veal was tender andsmothered in sauce and mozzarella. (4255 CampBowie (817) 737-2971. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun 5-10All credit cards $$) 6.0

The Wine Seller. Dinner by candlelight is made even more romantic if you can have a chilled bottle of your favorite champagne and a wine, cheese and pate board, too. The Wine Seller excels in both the romance and epicure departments (6120 Camp Bowie. (817) 737-2323 Mon- Thur 11 30 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midmght. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$) 6.5