THE SHIRT OFF HIS BACK

“WHY,” CRIED HENRY Higgins in exasperation, “can’t a woman be more like a man?” Within the context of My Fair Lady, it was merely a rhetorical statement, neither deserving nor receiving any response. But this season, designers on both sides of the Atlantic have answered that famous question with another: “Why not?” If Henry could see women now, he’d have no more cause to complain.

The fall ’84 woman dresses more like a man, but by no means is she trying to be one. This season, it’s not only possible to look feminine while dressing masculine, it’s essential-or the wearer has missed the point. The truly mannish looks for women -Dress for Success and the like-have died natural deaths, and few mourn their demise. The woman who opts for menswear-in-spired silhouettes does so because they’re comfortable and becoming.

Remember Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca? Sure, she wore fedoras and man-tailored jackets, but nobody mistook her for Bogey. And although 40 years have passed since that film’s release, many of the clothes she wore are perfect for this season. One prime example: the shoulder-padded jacket with set-in waistband. For an updated version, see the plaid jacket by Yves Saint Laurent (page DL30), with velvet at the waist and upper lapel.

Not surprisingly, the jacket is the cornerstone of the menswear look. Although they’re shown in a variety of styles and textures (single- or double-breasted, plaid, striped or solid), most of them hit at or below the hip. In contrast to spring’s simplified jackets, most fall jackets have lapels, although their width varies greatly. And in many jackets and coats, the lapel is a fur collar (you’ll find both real and fabricated fur trimming collars, sleeves, hats and other items this fall). Another style that’s consistently on target this season: the oversized one-button blazer (reminiscent of men’s jackets in the Fifties) worn as a heavy jacket or light coat over pants. The best of these blazers can be found in the collections of Anne Klein and Giorgio Armani.

A classic menswear coat is a good investment any year, but this season has more than its share of winners. The raglan-sleeved bal-macaan, a loosely fitting overcoat, is one style that’s roomy enough to go over everything you own, and it doesn’t date easily-check out Calvin Klein’s tweed versions, for starters. Another timeless style is the trench coat, which is even more timely this fall when trimmed with military-inspired accessories. Complice has a version in wool gabardine.

Pants are also important this season, much more so than skirts. It’s here that the difference between American and European designs is most noticeable. American designers such as Anne Klein, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren use the classic menswear shape: double-pleated trousers with tapered full-length legs, sometimes cuffed. The main difference from past seasons is in the baggier cut (again, like Fifties’ menswear) and the longer length (touching or even breaking on the shoes). Although Armani also features long, baggy trousers, many European designers-the Parisians in particular-present flared wide-leg pants cropped above the ankle. Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent show these pants with heavily padded jackets with nipped-in waists, flamboyant hats and mid- to high heels. (The Americans, on the other hand, show their trousers with man-tailored flats.)

Skirts are generally straight and hit at mid-calf or lower. Wrap skirts are prominent in a number of collections; the best of these is Anne Klein’s wool sarong, with one edge of the skirt pulled up and tucked into the waistband and a belt underneath. Also newsworthy are pleated skirts, which have a straight silhouette but still allow for easy striding.

Dresses are not a major item for fall, but one worth noting is the simple wool jersey dress, which pops up in the collections of Calvin Klein and Oscar de la Renta, among others. It’s often shown buttoned down the front with only a thin reptile belt to set it off.

With a few exceptions (mostly pants), the shapes for fall are not new. What makes them current (and outstanding) is pattern mixing. Almost anything-plaids, paisleys, fair isles, foulards, tweeds, checks or stripes-can be mixed. Designers have disregarded all rules about clashing, particularly when mixing plaids.

To go with pants or skirts, look for simple crewneck or V-neck sweaters and vests. Long-sleeved sweaters with polo necklines are great over pleated trousers, as are sweater sets. Shirts and blouses are man-tailored but with a little ease-definitely not the equivalent of a man’s dress shirt. One interpretation: Perry Ellis’ flat-collared silk shirt in muted jewel tones, paired with oversized V-neck diamond vests. Some shirts take ties, but not as many you might expect; ties are too mannish for many looks. The ties are either patterned (no surprise there) or knit, to give a softer look.



THE COLORS FOR the menswear look are mostly the muted shades of fall: taupe, gray, cream, pine green, burgundy, rust, gold, navy and brown. One color (or lack of it) is especially fetching for fall: winter white, worn from head to toe. Fabrics include wool of all textures and weights, including gabardine, jersey and cavalry twill.



EXCEPT FOR THE tuxedo look of a few years ago, menswear has never had much of an impact on after-5 dressing. But this year, all of the truly innovative evening looks for fall draw their inspiration from man-tailored garments. Ralph Lauren offers several feminine versions of the smoking jacket-for day and evening-in rich, jewel-toned velvets. Evening pajamas and robes also have an easy elegance, especially in silk, as shown by Claude Montana and Ronaldus Shamask.

The other big look for nighttime is sweater dressing: classic menswear shapes withFifties’ “sweater girl” charm. Bill Blasspairs long, long sweater sets in every colorwith matching taffeta skirts. Bill Haire’sevening wear should appeal to outdoorsytypes: He combines pastel jeweled Icelandicsweaters (crewneck pullovers or button-frontV-neck cardigans) with ivory pleated skirtsor cropped pants.

COMPLICE available at Elizabeth Arden, Bloomingdale’s, Lou Lattimore and Neiman-Marcus.



ANNE KLEIN available at Neiman-Marcus, Sanger Harris, Sakowitz, The Clothes-horse (Fort Worth), Frost Bros., The Gazebo, Lilly Dodson, John Freeman (Tyler), Mary V’s (Tyler), Claire Mac, Lester Mel-nick, The Carriage Shop and Loretta Blum.



CALVIN KLEIN available at Barbara Robertson, The Carriage Shop, The Gazebo, Marshall Field’s, Neiman-Marcus, Sanger Harris, The Clotheshorse (Fort Worth), Mary McCauley (Fort Worth), Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Lilly Dodson, Dillard’s and Sakowitz.



RALPH LAUREN available at Bloomingdale’s, Harold’s, Neiman-Marcus, The Polo Shop and Saks Fifth Avenue.



EMANUEL UNGARO available at Loretta Blum and Neiman-Marcus.



YVES SAINT LAURENT available at Rive Gauche and Sakowitz.