A DEFINITE PATTERN

EVERYONE HAS PATTERNS. There are patterns for walking, talking, eating, sleeping-even working. And this fall, there are patterns for dressing-but with one difference. Patterns for dressing are never routine.

How could they be when they’re this varied? From herringbones and hounds-tooths to paisleys and pinstripes, there’s a multitude to choose from. Here’s the clothing that will take you through the day.

Men in conservative jobs often believe that fashion is not for them, but for someone else-someone, say, around 20 years old. And designers confirm this belief whenever they borrow ideas from the street, where the most avid participants are young.

But not this year. Clothing this fall takes its inspiration from the man who sticks to conventional shapes with classic appeal. And classic clothing has rarely looked as appealing as it does this fell. The shapes are all too familiar, but color and pattern keep them from being staid. By that, we don’t mean the color or pattern of a single piece; it’s how you combine them that makes the difference.

A jacket is essential this season, at least in the world according to Seventh Avenue. The classic cut of this fall’s blazers makes them a great investment for years to come. And they’re available in a wide variety of styles-single- or double-breasted-as well as patterns. In general, the shape for blazers is more tailored than last year’s Big Fit, but not by much. Jackets (and coats) should drop straight from the shoulder, skimming rather than hugging the body. The fabric weight is generally heavier than in past seasons. The fabric, of course, is wool.

Coats are big news for fall-literally. The shoulders are big, and the coats are longer than in past years. Some designers, including Perry Ellis, show coats without jackets underneath, giving the whole ensemble a new proportion. The raglan-sleeved balma-caan and the classic trench are better than ever for fall. This year’s balmacaan is likely to sport a pattern-a herringbone tweed or a basket-weave check, perhaps. And for more casual wear, there are rugged outerwear jackets to choose from.

Trousers sport a Fifties-inspired, looser silhouette and hang to the top of the shoes. Most trousers are pleated at the waist, and often they’re cuffed. Like jackets and coats, they’re freshest in herringbone and tweed patterns. Military fabrics such as cavalry twill are also popular for shirts as well as trousers. In addition to twill, shirts come in such fabrics as cotton flannel and wool challis, and, of course, all kinds of patterns. For business, instead of your usual white dress shirt, try a light-toned tattersall shirt or one with subtle striping. And for casual wear, try brushed cotton plaids or cotton chambray.

Generously sized sweaters and vests- whether crewneck, V-neck or cardigan-style-are something to stock up on this fall, partly because they’re so plentiful and partly because they’re so imaginative. Here, pattern really comes into play, and the result is often playful. Alexander Julian uses gigantic paisley motifs in mauve and yellow on a slate-blue vest. Elk motifs run across a burgundy heather pullover from the Polo by Ralph Lauren collection; Aztec motifs abound on a sweater from Calvin Klein. And, inspired by the paintings of Sonia Del-aunay, Perry Ellis designed beautiful geometric sweaters in both muted and bold colorations. For more classic appeal, look for sweaters with diamonds or blanket stripes.



ALTHOUGH MOST OF the patterns for fell have roots in traditional menswear, many men are reluctant to wear them-or rather, wear more than one at a time. While it’s tempting to stick to the comparative ease of solids, it’s also much less interesting. When shapes are very extreme, solid colors work well, but with this season’s classic ones, the variety that patterns provide is essential. Try, for instance, wearing the same flannel trousers with a plaid shirt, houndstooth vest and tweed jacket. What keeps an outfit like this from being too much are muted colors and small-scale patterns.

You won’t have any trouble finding muted colors this fell-they’re almost the only col-ore available. They’re mostly neutral basics such as navy, olive, brown, gray, taupe and black. But there are also softened jewel tones such as burgundy, purple, pine green and teal. When brights are used, they’re usually hits of color on an otherwise neutral background. Perry Ellis, for example, shows many brights, which he uses with both neutral and jewel tones. And as a rule, the more bright colors an outfit has, the sportier it is.

Although pattern mixing is more suited to casual clothes, it can be done on a smaller scale for dressier outfits. Calvin Klein’s chalk-striped double-breasted suit with subtly striped shirt and tie, for example, has pattern interest but is still business-proper.

If you’d like to try mixing patterns, here are some good rules of thumb:

●Use mostly small-scale patterns. When you do use a large pattern, make it the only one in the outfit.

●Muted shades are easier to mix. If you like bright colors, try a solid bright piece- say a red vest-with neutral-toned trousers, shirt and jacket. And the simpler the patterns you use, the more bright colors you can add.

●In general, don’t concentrate patterns in one area, such as wearing a plain suit with a patterned vest, patterned shirt and print tie. The whole ensemble is what counts.

●Don’t forget accessories. Patterned neckties, bow ties and pocket squares-whether striped, checked, plaid, paisley or foulard- are a great way to add extra interest. The greatest variety is in neckties: Look for wool knit ties as well as silk ones. When you dress down, try patterned socks: Argyles are classic, but there are also stripes and plaids to consider. And when it gets colder, bundle up with a plaid muffler or a paisley scarf-or use a scarf for a single shot of color.

Shoes are in classic form this fell: lace-upoxfords or slip-on loafers. For dressing that’sreally head-to-toe, look into AlexanderJulian’s new shoe line, coordinated to gowith everything in his fall line.

GARRICK ANDERSON available a Neiman-Marcus.



GIORGIO ARMANI available at Bey-lerian of Paris, Bloomingdale’s, The Kent Shop, Marshall Field’s, Neiman-Marcus, Sakowitz and Saks Fifth Avenue.



JEFFREY BANKS available at Saks Fifth Avenue.



BASCO ALL-AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR available at High Voltage, Neiman-Marcus, Off-Hours (Fort Worth), Sakowitz and Saks Fifth Avenue.



BROOKS BROTHERS available exclusively at Brooks Brothers.



ALEXANDER JULIAN available at Bloomingdale’s, The Alexander Julian Shop, The Kent Shop, Marshall Field’s, Neiman-Marcus, Off-Hours (Forth Worth), Reynolds- Penland, Saks Fifth Avenue and Woolf Bros.

CALVIN KLEIN available at Blooming-dale’s, Dillard’s, Joske’s, Marshall Field’s, Neiman-Marcus, Off-Hours (Fort Worth), Sanger Harris and Saks Fifth Avenue.



POLO/RALPH LAUREN available at The Polo Shop and Saks Fifth Avenue.



TOURS LES CALECONS available through special order at Saks Fifth Avenue.