BON APPETIT!

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise.

They indicate a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good alue.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. Expect to spend more than $20 for a omplete meal (excluding wine and cocktails).

$$$$ Very expensive.

“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will take eservations.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, E/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte lanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are ccepted.

indicates a restaurant located on or north of LBJ reeway.



BARBECUE



Dickey’s. We talkin’ lean, high-quality meat heah, boy, and good sweet slaw and plenty o’ beans, plus juicy corn on the cob that’ll squish butter right over on your lady if you don’t watch out. (4610 N Central Expwy, /I>821-1571; 13613 Dallas Pkwy, 233-3721; 7770 Forest,361-6537. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No creditcards. $)

Peggy’s Beef Bar. If you’re looking for a place to grab a quick barbecue sandwich in comfortable but modest surroundings, don’t waste any more shoe leather. Peggy knows how to dish up some super beef, but she serves stingy portions. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm. Sat 10 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

The Rib. The touches of old-plantation elegance don’t interfere with the business here: lip-smacking barbecued chicken, brisket and (drum roll, please) ribs. Nothing compares to ribs at The Rib. By the time we had finished the main course, we were bursting at the seams. (5741 W Lovers Lane. 357-8139. Daily5-10pm. Carryout available daily 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Sonny Bryan’s. This disreputable-looking joint is nigh onto world famous because it serves some of the best barbecued brisket and spareribs anywhere. (2202 In-wood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-2:30 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards. $)



EUROPEAN



Agnew’s. Any problems Agnew’s may have had in thepast were blessedly temporary: Our last meal here wasperfect. All of the dishes we sampled were so beautifullycooked that we can’t even single out favorites. (15501 allas Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza, Suite 300 458-0702.Lunch; Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Satseatings at 6:30 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

Arthur’s. The atmosphere, food and service at Arthur’s almost always provide a very pleasing dining experience. Among the fine array of appetizers offered, the salmon and the escargot are excellent, but you could easily skip them and begin with the Arthur’s special salad – it’s big enough for two people. The entrées include a tremendous stuffed beef filet and fettuccine with lobster. (8350 N Central Expwy in Campbell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11 pm, Sat 6 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)

Au Bon Gout. A stop here on the way home is a guaranteed feast in full culinary regalia. One night, we faced an array that included veal with morels, coq au vin, rabbit in mustard sauce, sliced venison with cranberry and apples, roast chicken and beef tender-all of it freshly prepared and packaged per order in an easily reheatable tin. Tiny French green beans in cold vinaigrette and a tart potato salad were fine accompaniments. (4424 Lovers Lane. 369-3526. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

The Bay Tree. The food here is pleasant, without ever being as exciting as it sounds. Walleyed pike, for instance, is a fish not often encountered in Dallas. It was fresh and firm, but the sauce was rather ho-hum. So went the rest of our dinner. Those who are staying at the Wyndham will not regret trying it, but there isn’t much reason for others to venture into the place. (The Wyndham Hotel, 2222 Stemmons. 631-2222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30; Sun brunch: 11-3. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Belvedere. With a less-than-obvious location (it’s upstairs in a Lomo Alto apartment hotel), this Teutonic cousin of The Chimney is easy to miss. But don’t: The service is pampering; the atmosphere, romantic; the food, top-notch; the prices, fair. Standouts include the house wine, the vichyssoise, the Belvedere salad with bleu cheese and the “Austrian snowball,” a vanilla ice cream ball rolled in almonds and laced with chocolate sauce. (4242 Lomo Alto in Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)

Bohemia. We’d give up dining at a hundred North Dallas continental palaces for a single meal at this tiny, family-owned Bohemian restaurant with its frilly lace curtains, flickering votive candles, warm bread and soft butter. Although the entrees here are plenty filling, don’t skip the Soup (the potato soup has a hearty, beefy taste). (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Tue-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Reservations recommended on week-ends. $$$)

Blom’s. This plush hotel dining room at the Galleria’smain entrance is competing for a lot of superlatives, including having the most adventuresome chef. The interesting new combinations usually work well, but theysometimes go overboard. We found the food intriguing;the service, alternately a bit coy and a bit inattentive.(Westin Hotel, 15501 Dallas Pkwy, Suite 300. 458-0701.Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30. Satseatings at 6:30 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

Café Royal. There’s still magic in this kitchen, especially when the dish is a classic one with a little zing to it. The chevreuil sauce adds a delightful touch to a tender filet of beef, and the thick veal steak and accompanying shrimp are ideal in texture and taste. (650 N Pearl in Plaza of the Americas. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11:30. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Calluaud’s. Guy Calluaud, owner and chef, always keeps some old favorites (such as the lamb with tarragon sauce) on the menu, but he also occasionally bursts forth with inspiration and innovation. The salad with smoked fish is brilliant with a gingery dressing, and the hazelnut souffle dazzles as well as satisfies. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC. V, AE; personal checks accepted. $$$$)

Ceret. This isolated corner of the downtown area has been transformed into a true French outpost. Ceret tries to bring authentic bistro food to Dallas at popular prices ($20 for two for a four-course dinner) and is mostly successful. All the desserts we sampled were scrumptious. (703 McKinney. 720-0297. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; /I>dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

The Chimney. This Swiss-Austrian restaurant has acquired quite a following- We were charmed by the friendliness of the waitresses, the soft classical German recordings and a meal we enjoyed from start to finish. (9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Chide. The decor of this continental dining establishment is pleasant, with a large window at one end of the dining room that overlooks a gentle fountain outside on the restaurant’s patio. The food is good: basic fish, fowl and beef. The veal and sole entrees are superb-definitely the menu’s shining stars. (8854 N Central Expwy in NorthPark East. 361-9996. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 -2:15; dinner: Mon-Thur 7-10; Fri&Sat 7-11. All credit cards. $$$$)

Crackers. Owner Gus Katsigris takes great pride in the meals he serves in this charming 80-year-old house. The specialties here are Greek dishes: Dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), ouzo meatballs (deep-fried with lots of onions and spices) and Greek salads are a few exceptional examples. (2621 McKinney. 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3, Sun 11-5; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$)

The Enclave. We thought the excellence of this Old-Guard continental outpost had faded a bit the last time we visited. The salad was soggy and the vegetables were butter-soaked. But the Enclave’s chef continues to serve picture-perfect, giant-sized slabs of beef, and the chandeliers and solicitous service still sparkle. (8325 Walnut Hill. 363-7487. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon- Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-11.30. Closed Sunday. All credit cards. $$$)

Enjolie. The atmosphere here is reminiscent of a lavish resort: The decor is subtly sophisticated, but many male diners don’t bother to wear ties. The food, at its best, is wonderful, but it is at its best when it isn’t quite so fancy. Simpler dishes such as the mussel soup (brimming with saffron) and the homemade pistachio ice cream (rich with nuts) work better than the more intricate ones. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Las Colinas Blvd. Irving. 556-0800, ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Exposure. This chic restaurant/photo gallery isn’t just trendy; it’s a serious restaurant that offers some remarkable food. The appetizer list is especially varied, and the main dishes offer some novel inventions. The service was not quite as remarkable as the food- maybe the slow tempo is designed to let all the beautiful people get a good long look at one another. (4516 McKinney. 528-0210. Mon-Sat 4 pm-2 am. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Francisco’s. This is a perfect romantic hideaway: It’s dark, pleasantly musty and intimate. Service is tremendous-efficient but not hovering-and the food is exceptional. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended; required on Sat. MC. V, AE, DC. $$$)

The French Room. The rococo gaudiness of The French Room would be laughable if the food and service didn’t live up to the pretensions of the decor. But youwon’t be able to giggle for long: The staff here is asdignified and efficient as a group of young stockbrokers, and the food is remarkable. (Adolphus Hotel,1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm.Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Gallé. Gallé’s best offerings are its side dishes. We en-loyed an unusual assortment of stuffed squash, asparagus and carrots as well as a light potato fritter with allof our entrees. The appetizers were good, too, but you’llwant to save room for the desserts – they taste as goodas they look. But the service was efficient to the point ofbeing sentrylike. (Lincoln Hotel, 5410 LBJ Frwy in Lincoln Center. 934-8400. Mon-Fri 6-11 pm. Sat 6-11:30pm. Reservations requested. Jackets and ties required-All credit cards. $$$$)

The Garden Court. For Sunday brunch, the Melrose’sdining room offers one of the brightest, breeziest loca-tions in town. But the spread (buffet style) was unforgivably picked over (the salmon was reduced to a pile of tiny bones). The fruit, however, was fresh; the veal cordon bleu, tender. (3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Breakfast: Mon-Fri 6:30-11; lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2:30: dinner: Mon- Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sat 6:30-11, Sun 5:30-9; brunch: Sun 11 -3. Reservations recommended for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)

The Grape. Quaint, cozy and European is the best way to describe this small, neighborhood establishment. The cuisine is exceptional, whether you’re ordering a cheese and fruit board, a vegetable and dip platter or a meal. As could be expected from the name, the wine list is extraordinary. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-midnight. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)

Jean Claude’s. Almost everything on our last visit was heavenly: a sweetbread pǎté with crunchy vegetables, lamb showered with fresh herbs and accompanied with a little ball of lamb stuffing, golden sea bass in a tomato and hollandaise sauce fit for the gods, a perfectly caramelized upside-down apple tart, and a cloudlike chocolate souffle. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 & 9 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC. V. AE, DC. $$$$)

Jennivine. Welcome to Jennivine, “a little bit of England in Dallas.” It is that and more, offering pǎtés ranging from lobster to smoked herring, imported cheeses (English and otherwise), hearty French and German wines, European cuisine and typically British touches of humor. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Kosta’s. We still swear by the food here-juicy souflaki and creamy, aromatic moussaka, which may be that mysterious ambrosia so loved by Greek gods. And we still swear at the service, which on our last visit fell to new lows. But while such disorganization is Greek to us, you can bet your last dolma we’ll be back for more. (2755 Bachman. 351-4592. Mon-Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)

L’Ambiance. Forget that this building formerly housed a gas station. The important thing is that the kitchen is one of a handful in Dallas that does almost everything right. From the opening lobster bisque to the closing Concorde cake, every dish we sampled was awe-inspiring. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10- Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

L’Ancestral. The last place you might expect to find this rather sedate Old-World bistro is across the street from the infamous Tango frogs. Among the nicest choices of appetizers are the unusual salads: one made with corn; the other of lentils. The sauce served with four large, handsome shrimp had a surprising bite to it, and the chicken with shallots had a robust taste, complemented by crisp pommes frites. (5631 Alta. 826-0006. Tue-Sun 6:30 pm-1 am. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Laurel’s. This is another of the beautiful new NorthDallas hotel restaurants in which palate-cleansing sorbets and bottled sparkling water are standard fare.Floor-length windows offer wide-angle views of down-town, nearby skyscrapers and everything in between.Each course easily held our interest. (Sheraton ParkCentral Hotel, 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Mon-Sat 6-10:30pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Allcredit cards. $$$)

La Vieille Varsovie (The Old Warsaw). Tableside food preparation with a theatrical flair highlights dining in the Old Warsaw. Poached salmon in champagne sauce, fresh lobster and Dover sole with lemon butter are standouts. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Le Boul’ Mich. Well continue hesitantly to recommend dinner at this elegant old house across the street from the Quadrangle. The menu here is short but varied, and specials are offered every evening in each course. The pea soup has a rich, bacony flavor, and the spinach salad had much more than the obligatory sprinkle of bacon and egg. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Le Louvre. We relaxed in a loveseat beneath a glittering chandelier in a room with enough old master-style paintings to remind us of the restaurant’s namesake. But the art became incidental after the arrival of a bowl of creamy onion soup topped with Swiss cheese and a lobster bisque sweetened with cognac. The waiter deftly tossed our salads tableside and brought perfectly cooked beef and veal with three varieties of plump wild mushrooms. (9840 N Central Expwy in the Corner Shopping Center. 691-1177. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri 6-11:30, Sat 6-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

L’Entrecote. The French fare here is well-prepared, if not remarkable, but we were struck by the highly attentive and pleasant service. The low lights, harpist and fresh pink rosebuds made L’Entrecote romantic, but the overzealous wine steward did not. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2200 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: daily 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Lechner’s Brass Bull. The food at this German restaurant, which is hidden away in the Regent Hotel, can be excellent. Everything from the goulash soup (which had an assertive flavor and lots of meat) to the desserts (carrot cake, chocolate mousse, apple strudel) shows care in the kitchen. Among the main courses, we especially liked the smoked pork chop, which had a rich, hamlike taste. Our waiter, however, was snappish almost to the point of rudeness, and the meal was absurdly slow, with long waits at every point. (1241 W Mockingbird 630-7000. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sal & Sun 5:30-11 pm. $$$)

Le Rendez Vous. Possibly the best feature of this French bistro is its comfort. Getting a table is easy, the decor is attractive yet casual, and the attitude of the staff is friendly. Unfortunately, the food and the service don’t quite match their own ambition. The grilled salmon with béarnaise sauce, however, was tender and delicately flavored. And the specialty, seafood quiche, was quite good. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sal 5:30 pm-1 am, Sun 11-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Les Saisons. A pretty restaurant that is a bit more casual than other French dining spots, Les Saisons offers most enjoyable food. Among the entrees, the Dover sole, the entrecǒte steak and the duck (with a very gentle orange sauce) are all satisfying. (Oak Lawn at Blackburn in Turtle Creek Village, Suite 165. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11.30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Le Train Bleu. In keeping with the rather elegant atmosphere in this authentic re-creation of an old-fashioned French dining car, the food is mostly French and of a very respectable quality. Grilled dishes such as steak or lamb come off well, and even more elaborate things-such as scallops in a rich sauce-succeed here. But the most exciting offerings are the desserts, such as the Grand Marnier créme brulee. (Bloomingdale’s, 13320 Montfort in Valley View Center. 450-2290. Mon-Sat noon-2:30 pm & 6-8 pm. AE, Bloomingdale’s cards. $$$)

Manhattan. The heavy curtains and the tuxedoed waiters portend pretension, but the logo of skyscrapers and other stark details don’t quite fit. The food, too, falls betwixt and between. The veal is of good quality and is cooked well, but it sits on canned asparagus; the chicken Kiev is juicy but bland. (1482 Preston Forest Square. 385-8221. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. More than any other place in town, the Mansion can make you feel to the manor born. Ostentation is prevalent, but it is all accomplished in a rather muted, tasteful way, and the food is likewise elegant. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Main dining room (jackets and ties required, except at brunch)-lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:15: brunch: Sat noon-2:15 & Sun 11-2:15: dinner: Mon- Thur 6-10, Fri-Sun 6-10:30: supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight. Fri & Sat 11- midnight. Promenade Room-breakfast: daily 7-10:30 am: brunch: daily noon-2: lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Maple Street East. The elegant decor of this restored Victorian house provides an excellent atmosphere for anything from a business lunch to a romantic dinner. The fettuccine Alfredo is rich and smooth, the lamb chops are tender and grilled to perfection, and the white chocolate mousse is worth the calories, (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6 -10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30; Sun brunch: 11.30-2:30. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Mozart’s. We found the Austrian-German specialties abit Americanized but still appealing. The cold appetizercart held a generous selection of everything fromshrimp and salmon to eggs stuffed with liver paste.(Sheraton Park Central. 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. All creditcards. $$$)

Mr. Peppe. This is a European’s European restaurant: not lavishly decorated, not terribly high-priced, but consistently right on target. The crab-stuffed artichoke bottom is one of the best cold appetizers we’ve sampled in a while. Soup or salad comes with every entrée-the cream of mushroom is a buttery delight; chock-full of mushroom and onions. (5617 W. Lovers Lane. 352-5976. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations All credit cards. $$$)

Patry’s. Some people might miss the pomp and circumstance-the carpet can only be described as durable, there’s not a harpist in sight, and the crowd is establishment rather than chic. But it’s nice to unwind at Patry’s in the evening, when the chef and the house staff have time to perform. For dessert, the crìpes suzette are worth the tableside theatrics: The dessert was sweet and smooth, without a trace of bitterness from the orange rinds. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Pyramid Room. This is an old fave of Dallas’ elite, and try as we may to be impudent and critical, we’re speechless with admiration for this flashy Fairmont Hotel restaurant that reminds us a little of both Frank Sinatra and King Tut. The best thing about the Pyramid Room is that even amid all the posh surroundings, there’s real comfort and gorgeous, delicious food that creates a mood all its own. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-7258. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

Restaurant Silvano. This place has an understated elegance that blends well with the warm welcome. Among the entrees, the steak was well-aged and exceptionally flavorful, and the venison was perfectly rosy, without a trace of gaminess. Our Grand Marnier souffle tasted only of egg, but the fresh fig tart is one of the best desserts in the city. (311 Market Street. 747-0322. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$$)

Rolf’s. This elegant new German restaurant in Caruth Plaza combines authentic specialties with standard continental dishes, and it accomplishes both with flair. A wide assortment of entrees is offered. The salads are complex marvels, and the apple strudel with vanilla sauce can’t be beat. (9100 N Central Expwy in Caruth Plaza, Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Three Vikings. We can’t swear that this place is authentic, but we promise it has character, from the potato pancakes to the maps of Scandinavia taped to the rough wood walls. It’s the sort of place where people come in all sizes and shapes. The food is just as diverse and, generally, is very good. The real standout here is a Finnish shrimp chowder (the smoothest, heartiest chowder we’ve ever had, including Boston’s best). (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm, Sun 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



ITALIAN



Adriano’s. Adriano’s serves pizza of the most outré sort. Most of the pizza combinations work surprisingly well, especially the one with pancetta (Italian bacon), tomatoes and mushrooms. The decor of Adriano’s is highest tech, with lots of pipes and vents showing. (2800 Routh in the Quadrangle. 871-2262. Mon-Sat 11:30-3; Mon-Thur 6-11; Fri 11:30-3 & 6-1 am. MC. V, AE.$$)

Bugatti. Bugatti has formidable crowds and the same great tortellini and exemplary créme caramel as ever. One welcome new twist was the special of the day: shrimp parmigiana. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)

Campisi’s. This is the stuff of which institutions are made: good food, reasonable prices and great atmosphere. The pizza, of course, is a Dallas legend. Cam-pisi’s is casual, and the service is very good, but expect to wait in line almost any night after 7:30. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355 or 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-mid-night, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Ciao!. Although a few delectable-sounding pasta and veal dishes were listed as dinner specials at this hi-tech eatery, we opted for the Ciao specialty we’d heard friends rave about: pizza. We tried one with Italian sausage and crushed red peppers and another with thinly sliced onions and black olives. But our personable waitress clued us in on the best version: pizza topped with spinach that had been sautéed in garlic butter. (3921- B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Daily noon-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Cremona. This place is a mixture of romance and surrealism. Cremona’s menu is a limited one: several pastas (including a rich, creamy tortellini, lasagna, ravioli and fettuccine) and a few meat dishes. The pace here is Italian, too: It ranges from slow, easy and potently romantic to loud and rambunctiously chaotic. (2600 Woodrow between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)

DiPalma. Dallas boasts a taste of Little Italy in the form of DiPalma’s, the gourmet food store/restaurant on Lowest Greenville. The antipasto di Giorno plate is a scrumptious sampler of fresh fruits and good-sized cheese selections, and the DiPalma garlic bread makes a nice accompaniment. Try as we might, we couldn’t resist the tempting array of displayed pastries-mama mia, they’re wonderful! (1520 Greenville. 824-4500. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

Fabio’s. Fabio’s offers fine Italian fare and highly attentive service. Tagliarini belleza (pasta tossed in a combination of mushrooms and seafood) and tagliarini al salmone (pasta in a salmon sauce) make it tempting to stick with the pasta, but don’t overlook the veal and seafood dishes. (9820 N Central Expwy in the Corner Shopping Center, Suite 504. 987-3226. Sun& Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$$)

La Tosca. With its spacious, black-and-white-tiled entry and waiters in snazzy, striped T-shirts, La Tosca has a European classiness that eludes other Italian eateries in town. The food is similarly chic. You’ll be hard-pressed to make room for dessert, but the profitterol al cioccolato-gooey with chocolate and cream-is a decadent, delicious treat. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Thur & Sun 6- 10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombard!; Ristorante Lombardi.It would be difficult to picture a nirvana that didn’t include an occasional visit to Lombardi’s. The offerings are among the best Northern Italian fare in town. Lombar-di’s pasta is legendary, with the tortellini vying for the topslot in town. (2916 Hall, 823-6040 or 528-7506; 15501Dallas Pkwy in Adelslein Plaza, 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11.Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario’s. Mario’s is stereotypical of fine Italian restaurants in all the best ways. Black tuxedos, white table-cloths and red furnishings lend elegance to rooms decorated with antique vases, wildlife prints and candlelight. Mario’s has good desserts and prompt service, but the dish we’ll remember is the fettucine – it’s perfect. (Oak Lawn at Blackburn in Turtle Creek Village, Suite 135. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)

Prego Pasta House. This dimly lit, forest-green dining room is an ideal place to begin an elegant evening on the town. But you don’t have to dress up to dine here, and you wont break your budget, either. Our meal began with the best fried cheese we’ve had in Dallas. We also enjoyed the fettucine and a small oval pizza with a thin, crisp crust and generous toppings of mushrooms, green pepper, green onions and Italian sausage. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

Ristorante La Bella. An interesting new Italian restaurant has finally come to a Far North Dallas neighborhood sorely in need of a good place to dine. Especiallyappealing is the specialty, frutta di Adriatoci: a lightlycooked seafood stew containing fresh mussels, clams,shrimp and fish in a garlicky wine broth. The otherseafood dishes are also memorable. (6757 Arapaho.991-2828. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun5-10 pm. MC,V,AE.$$)

Sergio & Luciano. You can find some of the best Italian cooking in Dallas here. The tortellini in a fiery, salty sauce of ham, tomato and red pepper was bellissima; the scampi in garlic butter, perfect. Unfortunately, some of our dishes – such as the tough, boring osso buco (aveal dish) – fell far below this level. (4900 Belt Line in theQuorum, Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri-Sun 6-11. Allcredit cards. $$$)

Sergio’s. Seven fine veal dishes and an array of homemade pasta highlight Sergio’s innovative, elegant menu. Our tagliarini salmone (pasta in a salmon sauce) was rich and flavorful without being heavy. The assorted hot appetizers, including shrimp, mussels and squid, were savory and delicate. (2800 Routh in the Quadrangle, Suite 165. 742-3872. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations for dinner only. All credit cards. $$)

Villa Bugatti. The hustle and bustle and the occasionally poor service at the original Bugatti restaurant are, happily, not characteristic of the new Bugatti near the Quadrangle. At the old Bugatti, the tortellini was unbeatable, and -hallelujah! -it is similarly creamy and rich at Villa Bugatti. (2710 Boll. 824-2470. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. Reservations. $$$)



MEXICAN



Café Cancun. Those hopelessly addicted to Tex-Mex can indulge in several decent combination plates, but the chiles rellenos, the crisp sautéed red snapper and anything served with mole sauce are the dishes that keep people who like the real thing coming back for more. (Park Lane at Central Expwy in Caruth Plaza, 369-3712; 4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011; 650 N Pearl in Plaza of the Americas, 969-0244. Mon-Thur 11-11; Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-10 pm at Caruth Plaza and Lomo Alto locations; Mon-Fri 11 am- 7 pm at Plaza of the Americas location. MC, V, AE. $$)

Café Rincón. This may be the most authentic Mexican menu in town, but the cooking has its ups and downs. The beer-battered fried shrimp, camarones Bohemia, can be extraordinary, but on our last visit, one of the four big crustaceans smelled strongly of ammonia. (2818 Harry Mines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)

Casa Rosa. People waiting to eat at Casa Rosa can either stand in a small, crowded entrance hall or squeeze into a tiny bar; and once seated, they may find the service friendly but slow. But we understand why people are willing to put up with these and other problems: The food here is very good. The entrees are offered in good combinations, and the fajitas are some of the best in Dallas. (Inwood at Lovers Lane in Inwood Village. Suite 165. 350-5227. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30- 2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11, Sat&Sun noon-10. All credit cards. $$)

Chiquita. This Tex-Mex haven is somewhat of a rarity in Dallas, serving fine Mexican cuisine in a dressy atmosphere. The chicken nacho appetizer is one of the menu’s shining stars-tender chicken topped with Monterey Jack cheese. The menu is divided between Tex-Mex offerings and Mexico City-style Mexican food. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

Escondido. If we called this place a “dive” in the literal sense, Escondido would make your ears pop. But don’t despair: The Tex-Mex food is superior; the chips are just greasy enough; and the servings are massive, considering the price. You aren’t here for anything chi-chi; you’re here for extraordinary beans, rice, tamales and tacos. (2210 Butler 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Genaro’s Tropical. Enjoy rare pre-Castro Cuban and Brazilian music, but don’t let the aesthetic thrill of Genaro’s overshadow the surprising menu, which proves that Dallas has only one showcase for genuine tropical cuisine. Of the many fine seafood creations, pez espada (swordfish kebab) deserves special mention. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Mon- Thur 11-11, Fri-Sun 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)

Herrera. There are other places in the neighborhood that can match Herrera’s enchiladas, tacos and beans-good as they are. But the thick, pancake-shaped flour tortillas cranked out by hand are unique, as are the stew-meat burritos made with them. (5427 Denton Drive, 630-2599: 3902 Maple, 526-9427. Daily 11 am-10 pm; all credit cards at Denton Drive location. Mon, Wed& Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pm; closed Tue; no credit cards at Maple location. $)

Javier’s. Don’t visit this “gourmet Mexican” restaurant when you’re in the mood for Tex-Mex; you’ll leave with an aching in your heart for refried beans and rice. But the alternatives here are undoubtedly a better choice. You’ll leave Javier’s filled with delicious beef, seafood or chicken dishes, an actual vegetable and desserts other than pralines. (4912Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. None of your fancy, exotic newfangled dishes here. Just homemade tacos fried right inthe shell, cheesy-gooey enchiladas, flavorful rice andrich-tasting beans. But we do wish that Joe T. would dosomething about the unpleasant smell of cooking oilthat pervades the room and lessens the pleasure of thefresh-from-the-stove tostadas. (4400 Belt Line, Addison.458-7373. Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm, Sat 11-11,Sun 4- 10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

La Calle Doce. This sunny Oak Cliff restaurant has hardwood floors, fresh white linen tablecloths and the first guitar-strumming troubadour we’ve ever really enjoyed. All the standard combinations are offered atbudget prices, and the menu also offers a selection ofgourmet seafood specialties. (415 12th St. 941-4304.Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat 11:30am-10 pm, Sun 11:30 am-8 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Los Vaqueros. Los Vaqueros is among the mostdependable places in town for old-fashioned Tex-Mex.But we found the tacos al carbon tough, and the filetede casita had a dispirited color. We’ll stick to the first-rate tacos and tamales. (Preston at Mockingbird inHighland Park Village. 521-0892. Sun-Thur 11 am-9:30pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Mario & Alberto. Of the specialties, our favorites havealways been the steaks spiked with garlic and peppersand the simple char-broiled chicken breasts. Of the recent additions to the menu, we enjoyed the carnitas ofpork and the polio en adobo (breast of chicken cut into bite-sized chunks and doused in red chili sauce). Getthere early if you don’t want to wait. (LBJ Frwy atPreston in Preston Valley Shopping Center, Suite 425.980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mexico. This newest Shannon Wynne creation has a wonderfully non-hi-tech, eclectic style. The menu is eclectic, too, with Mexican versions of rabbit and squid. The problem here is that much of the food doesn’t taste as good as it sounds. The safest bets are the mixed nachos (topped with everything including chicken mole) and the Polio Carlos (chicken in a Yucatecan sauce). (2911 Routh. 760-8639. Sun-Wed 11:30 am-11 pm, Thur-Sat 11:30 am-midnight. MC, V. AE. $$)

Moctezuma’s. Try something other than the usual Tex-Mex dishes when visiting this attractive dinner stop; the chicken and fish “especiales” offer a nice getaway. The service here is very attentive, and the margaritas are worth an honorable mention. (3002 McKinney. 749-7775. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat full menu 11 am-11:30 pin; appetizers until 12:30 am. Reservations for parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$)

On The Border. Not only is the food here pleasing to the palate, but the airy charm of On The Border’s “South Texas Cafe” decor is a definite plus. In all, On The Border offers a pleasant atmosphere, good service and large portions at reasonable prices. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri&Sat 11:30 am-midnight, Sun 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Raphael’s. The consistently fresh, light chips, the flavorful, tomatoey hot sauce and the icy, potent margaritas keep us coming back for more. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640; 6782 Greenville, 692-8431. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-10:30 pm at McKinney location: Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Sat noon-11 pm at Greenville location. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V. AE, DC. $$)

Rosita’s. Rosita’s gets better every time we visit. In the past, the tortillas were tough, and the hot sauce was less than dynamic, but our recent visit provided a top-notch Tex-Mex meal. Portions were huge, and lunch cost less than $4. (4906 Maple. 521-4741. Mon 7 am-2:30 pm, Tue-Fri 7 am-10 pm, Sat& Sun9 am-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $)



FAR EAST



August Moon. This popular Far North Dallas Chinese restaurant has gotten bigger, more ambitious and, most importantly, better since it opened a few years back. Among the long list of specialties on the revised menu, the Five Flavor Shrimp and the Mongolian barbecue were both succulent, and they left us wanting to try some of the more exotic new offerings. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 10:30 am-11 pm. Sun 10:30-10:30. Dim sum served daily. Reservations for four or more or for special banquets. Bar by membership. All credit cards. $$)

Bamboo Pavilion. This northern outpost of the Szechuan Pavilion drew raves when it opened, and some of its chefs specialties are very appealing. Panda’s Prawns, for instance, is an unusual treatment of huge, heavenly breaded, deep-fried shrimp tossed with julienned vegetables in a delicately sweet sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds. But items on the back pages of the menu don’t seem to receive as much care. (Belt Line at Coit in Promenade Center, Suite 1790, Richardson. 680-0599. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11:30-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC,V, AE, DC. $$)

China Inn. We’ve never had a chicken dish here that wasn’t ambrosial. Food this good shows that there’s plenty of life yet in old-fashioned Cantonese-style cooking. (6521 E Northwest Hwy. 369-7733. Sun-Thur 11 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. All major credit cards. $)

China North. The novelty of this new spot on the westend of the Addison strip is its Mongolian fire pit. A longbuffet presents thinly sliced raw meats, vegetables andsauces. The diner heaps these in a bowl and takesthem to a window, behind which a chef quickly cooksthem on a massive cast-iron griddle. This is also one ofthe few restaurants in town that will serve Peking duckon request. (Belt Line, Addison. 788-1811. Mon-Thur 11am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. All creditcards. $$)

Chu’s. Friends told us that Chu’s is now serving some of the best Cantonese-style Chinese food in town – and they were right. The soups had a rich, homemade taste, and the chicken with pecans had a subtlety and depth that one could never call bland. The spicy dishes, such as the double- cooked pork Szechuan style, are a bitperfunctory, though. (15080 Beltway, Addison.387-1776. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat4:30- 10. All credit cards. $$)

Fangti China 1. We knew when we saw the red neon signs in the window that dining at Fangti was going to be fun. The pu pu tray, a mouthwatering medley of fan-tail shrimp, an egg roll, barbecued beef, fried won ton and shrimp toast, was an inspiring beginning. Keep this in mind, though: When they say “hot,” they mean hot. (6752 Shady Brook in the Twin Bridge Shopping Center. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-4 am, Fri 11:30 am-6 am. Sat 5:30 pm-6 am, Sun 5:30 pm-4 am. 987-3877. All credit cards. $$)

Royal China. This cozy neighborhood restaurant offers good food at reasonable prices, and a genial host named Buck Kao, who will greet you by name after one or two visits. For a mouthwatering beginning, try the fried meat dumplings with ginger sauce. For entrees, you can’t improve on dry stirred beef, but if you want to go the chicken or fish route, kung po chicken and royal prawns are reliable choices. (Preston Royal Shopping Center, Suite 201.361-1771. Lunch: daily 11.30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10. All credit cards. $$)

Royal Panda. This new Chinese restaurant in the location of the defunct Hunan Pavilion offers excellent renditions of the Mandarin and Szechuan dishes that have now become standard on menus all over town. The service is unusually friendly and helpful, putting Royal Panda above most of its competition. (8021 Walnut Hill at Central Expressway in The Corner Shopping Center. 363-3858. Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm&5 pm-4 am. Sat & Sun 5 pm-6 am. MC, V, AE. $$)

Sakura. Until recently, Sakura also offered Chinese and Korean dishes; now the restaurant apparently is concentrating on what it knows best-Japanese. On a recent visit, we sampled the gyoza (fried, meat-filled dumplings), which were a tad greasy but still among the best in town. The highlight of our meal was the Yose Nabe: seafood (fish, shrimp and octopus) with vegetables and tofu in broth. Our service was exemplary-the kind that every restaurant should (butoften doesn’t) have. (7402 Greenville. 361-9282. Mon-Thur 5:30-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight.)

Sawatdee. Barbecued beef with bamboo shoots iszingy and delicious at this Upper Greenville Thairestaurant. A meal here (which is best begun with asmall, light, crisp Siamese egg roll) is a ravaging blowto the low-sodium diet, but it’s well worth a day of thebland in repentance. (4503 Greenville at Yale.373-6138. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Sun-Thur5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-11. All credit cards. $$)

Sate House. Ayam panggang priangan, anyone? Forthose born west of Indonesia, that means barbecuedchicken marinated with soy sauce. Served with softfried noodles and steamed rice, it’s one of several examples of “Indonesian home cooking’ found here. Mostentrees are cooked sate style (on a skewer); expecteach bite to teach you something about a delightfulforeign cuisine. (12125 Abrams, Suite 108. 680-2803.Lunch: Tue-Fri&Sun 11:30-2:30, dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)

Taiwan. The new Taiwan manages to combine all the elegance of Oriental tradition with the cordial service and deft preparation of the Taiwan on Greenville, whichwe fell for years ago. We were delighted with the plump,lightly fried shrimp rolls and the warm, meat-stuffedturnovers (kuo-teh) that we ordered as appetizers. (4980 Belt Line, 387-2333; 6111 Greenville, 369-8902.Mon- Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun 11 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$)

Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan. “Uncle Tai’s Beer” is thesingle most virtuosic Chinese dish around; the surfaceof the meat, after a complex series of soakmgs andcookings, boasts a texture as rich as a medievaltapestry. All the food is likely to be excellent, but the totaldining experience is rather austere in this crowdednook high above the Galleria’s ice skating rink. (13350 Dallas Pkwy in the Galleria. Suite 3370. 934- 9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)



SEAFOOD



Banno Brothers. While you’re sitting at Banno’s listening to the raucous bleat of Dixieland jazz or watching an oyster shucker do his work, you can almost believe you’re in New Orleans (and you could practically drive there in the time it takes to get service at Banno’s on a busy Saturday night). But the wait is worth it, especially when endured with oysters on the half shell and the mollusk’s natural accompaniment: ice-cold beer. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun, gone fishin’. MC, V. $$)

Hampton’s Seafood Market. This small, quaint seafood oasis adjacent to the Farmer’s Market downtown offers about 50 different kinds of seafood for eating in or carrying out. The luncheon menu is limited, as is the seating, but the offerings are excellent. (801 S Pearl. 742-4668. Tue-Fri 8 am-6 pm, Sat 7 am-6 pm, Sun 7 am-4.30 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Jozef’s. Jozef’s new location on Walnut Hill serves food as good as the original, and you don’t have to fight the crowds. We were impressed with the spicy ceviche (lots of lime, tomatoes, fresh peppers and high-quality fish) and with the gumbo, though the boiled shrimp were rather bland. (2719 McKinney, 826-5560; 2460 Walnut Hill, 351-5365. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Ratcliffe’s. Given the airy atmosphere of this many-windowed seafood mecca (is there a nicer place to eat on a sunny day?), the food here is even better than it has to be. Even in a dungeon, Ratcliffe’s continental seafood would lift your spirits. Esoteric entrees (like filet of mako shark-unforgettably pungent-and abalone steak) and the humbler items (fried seafood platter or baked trout with saffron rice) may suffice. (1901 McKin-ney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-7). Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Rocco Oyster Bar. The Monday night all-you-can-eat catfish filets are greaseless works of wonder. The Big Mix ($8.95) is mostly red beans and rice-not such a bargain. Rocco’s menu is broad-baby eel and oysters of three different breeds command attention -but some of the more adventurous offerings are less than delicious. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Wed 11-11:30, Thur-Sat 11-12:30 am. MC. V, AE. $$)

Seascape Inn. Bring someone who likes to talk, because the wait (up to 30 minutes for lunch, longer at dinner) is the chief drawback to this mostly superior restaurant. Seascape Inn does best with its more exotic entrees such as linguine pescadore, served perfectly al dente with oysters, clams, mussels and whitefish in a complex wine sauce. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)

S&D Oyster Company. This New Orleans-style McKinney Avenue anchor is always crowded and unfortunately, for us at least, the peak lasts from early afternoon until mid-evening. But if you don’t mind a line, the cole slaw is spectacular (and face it, cole slaw is rarely spectacular), the shrimp are juicy and meaty, and everything-from the catfish filets to the catch of the day – tastes fresh and never greasy. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Turtle Cove. Some nights, it seems as though all of Dallas has turned out to eat broiled seafood and drink interesting California wines here. But after a few years of living with shrimp cooked over a mesquite wood fire, we’re beginning to think that if God had meant man to eat this way he would have put shrimp in West Texas (or mesquite in the Gulf). (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri&Sat 11-11. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. For a real slice of Texas barbecue, the place to go – as far as most residents of Fort Worth are concerned – is still Angelo’s. You order cafeteria-style from a menu above the counter. A paper plate is heaped with a choice of ribs (served after 5 pm only) or barbecued beef, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. A large, icy beer is just the thing to top it all off. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

The Carriage House. It’s a bit overpriced, perhaps, but Fort Worth patrons seem to be stuck on this genteel establishment of the Old Guard. Nothing is rushed here, especially service, which can be annoying if you’re anxious to catch a show. Wait until you can spend the best part of an evening. Then sit back, and you may enjoy (as we did) stuffed mushrooms, escargot. rack of lamb and broiled abalone. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. MC, V. AE. $$$)

Cattlemen’s Steak House. The secret of getting into this legendary steakhouse on weekends is to arrive before the crowds start descending-5:30 or 6 pm. That may be a bit too early for some people, but otherwise, the wait sometimes exceeds an hour. The steaks are indeed worth waiting for: huge, tender and cooked as ordered. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30pm, Sat 4:30-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Crystal Cactus Restaurant. It’s refreshing to find a hotel restaurant that tries as hard as this one. An unusual appetizer of escargot came wrapped in a crisp pastry for dunking in a creamy lemon-butter sauce; it was accompanied by plump, juicy oysters Rockefeller. And the chicken Oscar was expertly prepared, with a light hollandaise sauce and scampi covering lightly breaded chicken breasts. (Hyatt Regency Hotel, Eighth & Commerce. (817) 870-1234. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm & 6-11 pm. Sat 6-11 pm, Sun 10:30 am-2:30 pm. AII credit cards. $$$)

Edelweiss. Ja, it’s a bit kitsch, but sometimes kitsch isn’t so bad. A polka band cranks up every night at 7 o’clock to play renditions of old German standards while diners enjoy heaping platefuls of authentic German cuisine. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Mon-Thur5-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. AII credit cards. $$)

Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. This place is perfect for quick meals out or for a bite to eat before a show. Prices are reasonable, the service is quick and efficient, and the food-well, what can we say about maza, lahm mishwi or falafil, except that they are as fascinating as they sound. (3308 Fairfield at Camp Bowie. (817) 731-6961. Tue-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. In combing the Southwest in search of the perfect margarita, our tequila elixir was found next to a plate of enchiladas, beans and rice in this celebrated family-style restaurant. And the food-the standard dinner plus a few choices like steak a la Mexicana-was, as always, great. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm,Sat11 am-11 pm, Sun4-10pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

Kincaid’s. Whoever said that a hamburger is a hamburger is a hamburger? It just ain’t so. In this old-fashioned grocery store, hamburgers are made the old-fashioned way-and that means lots of onions, pickles, cheese and grease. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10am-6:15pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Michel. Michel’s fixed-price menu has climbed to $34.50 from the previous $29.50, but although the price has gone up, the portions of our latest four-course meal seemed to be on the lean side. Michel’s dedication to quality, however, was unchanged. The sea scallops were tender and juicy; escargots, rich with butter and garlic; entrees of lobster and lamb, deftly prepared. (3851 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-1231. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 6 and 9. All credit cards. $$$$)

The Original Mexican Food Eats Cafe. Legend has it that this is the first Mexican food restaurant in Fort Worth (hence its name); it’s certainly one of the most popular ones. Specialties include the Roosevelt plate, a tasty combo that offers a taco, enchilada and chalupa. We found the chicken nachos to be among the best we’ve ever sampled, and the margaritas are huge. (4713 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-6226. Sun-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-9:30 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards. $)

Ristorante Lombardi. Old-World charm characterizes the new Fort Worth Lombardi’s in Sundance Square. Inside, the aroma of pasta and sautéed seafood mingles with the scurry of bustling waiters. (300 Main in Sun-dance Square. (817) 877-1729. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations. $$$)

Sardine’s. The name of this restaurant corresponds to the manner in which guests are seated, but the crowding merely attests to the continuing popularity of this Italian inn. Aside from the close quarters, we were delighted with the hustle and bustle of the restaurant. Our chicken with scampi and our lasagna were uniformly good. (3410 Camp Bowie. (817)332-9937. Sun-Thur 5:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1 am. All credit cards. $$)

Szechuan. The chef here has an authentically heavy hand with the hot peppers. Once we learned our lesson and steered clear of the ominous starred offerings, we were delighted with pleasing portions of pork with garlic (spicy, but not overwhelming), tangy beef with green pepper and diced chicken with almonds. (5712 Locke off Camp Bowie. (817) 738-7300. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Tuscany. Once inside this place, you’ll find yourself in an elegant Italian restaurant featuring the cuisine of Tuscany, the heartland of Italy. Although our pasta dish (tortellini alla panna) was far above average, the real highlight of our meal was zuppa di pesce, a bouillabaisse-type dish featuring different kinds of squid, shrimp and mussels in a spicy sauce. Our meal was perfectly topped off with steaming cups of espresso. (4255 Camp Bowie. (817) 737-2971. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)

The Wine Seller. This place is for those who enjoy a leisurely dinner, complete with four courses and at least one bottle of wine. Wine aficionados may explore the restaurant’s wine vault to select the proper bottle for their meal. Entrees include beef, chicken and seafood dishes; appetizers include pǎtés and assorted cheeses. Selected wines may be sampled by the glass. (6120 Camp Bowie. (817) 737-2323. Mon-Thur 11:30 arn-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight, Sun noon-6 pm. MC, V; personal checks accepted. $$)