THE MOVE TO SIMPLICITY

Such is the essence of this season: Seldom can you go wrong if you just keep things simple. There are seasons in which clothes are meant to be seen – really seen, but this isn’t one of them. Clothes now are meant to be felt, to be experienced. Obviously, it’s still important how a dress or blouse or whatever looks (simplicity hardly rules out vanity), but just as important as the way a piece looks is the way it feels.

Consider the power of the shriek vs. the whisper. The shriek (a low-cut fuchsia and purple ruffled blouse, for instance) screams for attention-almost blinds the senses into recognition. The whisper (say, a simple beige linen shift), on the other hand, gently draws you closer and closer until you’re almost forced to touch it to appreciate it. This spring is full of whispers.

What’s missing are the eye-popping, show-stopping attention-getters (although you’ll still see a few of those this season; we’ll look at those later). Many designers have abandoned strict, constructed tailoring and the preoccupation with superfluous frivolities and have focused instead on refining the basics. The results: clean, uncomplicated shapes; long, lean lines; and soft, neutral colors.

Sound boring? Well, it could be if there were nothing else to attract your attention-to draw you closer. That’s why texture and the sense of touch are so important. Is the fabric flat and boring, or does it have some substance? How does it feel; how does it move? Does it move with you? Are several textures used together to really pique the interest?

Rarely have we paid such attention to the texture of clothes-in winter, you opted for wools and flannels; in summer, there were cottons and knits -so you may feel a bit timid about experimenting. Don’t be. Just try the lightweight gauzes, crisp linens, nubby cottons, wide-weave knits and supple or raw silks, and you won’t miss. If you’re really brave, mix and match combinations of the above. And the introduction of these fabrics and a whole range of pale hues – warm earth tones; soft pinks, beiges and peaches; neutral khakis and grays – has made it possible for pieces to become more seasonless.

With this minimalist approach, shorter hair (above the shoulders to above the chin) works best; it provides a cleaner, neater finish, as do weighty flat shoes to anchor the look (wide-banded sandals are especially good). Simple wide-brimmed woven hats can further soften the look. Expect to see cleaner necklines (collarless jackets and blouses, bare tanks and shells) and a lot of emphasis at the hip (big, man-sized belts slung low; hip-wrapped sarongs; skirts wrapped at the hip).

But the single most appealing aspect of fashion now is that there is no single “right choice” for dressing; there are several. Along with the free-and-easy styles we’ve focused on here are all sorts of dressier suit alternatives that maintain the clean, narrow-lined approach (see page DL43). And, of course, there are the shrieks mentioned earlier-a mini-explosion of incredibly high-impact colors (Day-Glo yellows and greens, fuchsias, neon oranges) played against black. Like most shrieks, they are most effective when taken in small doses-say, a tie, scarf or blouse, or even incorporated simply as trim-and when used as a contrast, not as a constant. But remember, when the time is right, nothing is more effective than the shriek at commanding attention.

The keys to making any of these looks work are proportion and attention to detail. Hemlines fluctuate from above the knee to almost at the ankle, so determining what’s “right” isn’t as simple as short vs. long. First, find the length that’s right for your body and your lifestyle. Then, if you opt for a long skirt, stick with a flat shoe (or, if the skirt is really loose, a higher heel could also work). If you choose an above-the-knee straight skirt, a high pump works best to extend the narrow, leggy look. And don’t forget such details as makeup and accessories. With pale hues, a monochromatic makeup scheme keeps the look soft; if you want color, focus on the lips. And texture is just as important for accessories-try sculpted or carved pieces in frosted pale translucent colors, stone, wood or metal.

CALVIN KLEIN available at Barbara Robertson, Bloomingdale’s, The Carriage Shop, Clothes Horse, Dillard’s, Frost Bros., The Gazebo, Marshall Field’s, Mary McCauley, Neiman-Marcus, Sak-owitz, Saks Fifth Avenue and Sanger Harris.



GENE EWING FOR BIS available at Adonna’s, Cha-Cha’s, Clothes Horse, Deborah Scott, Dillard’s, The Gazebo, Neiman-Marcus, Sanger Harris and Turtletique.



GIORGIO ARMANI available at Lou Lattimore and Neiman-Marcus.



ISSEY MIYAKE PLANTATION available at Neiman-Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.



REBECCA MOSES available at Neiman-Marcus.



YOHJI YAMAMOTO available at Bloomingdale’s and Neiman-Marcus.



BILL HAIRE available at Amy’s, Barbara Robertson, The Gazebo, Lester Melnick, Mary McCauley and Sanger Harris.



CHANEL BOUTIQUE available at Lou Lattimore and Neiman-Marcus.

NORMA KAMALI available at Barbara Robertson, Blooming-dale’s, Cha-Cha’s, Elizabeth Michael’s, The Gazebo, Margo’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Sanger Harris.



PERRY ELLIS available at Bloomingdale’s, Frost Bros., Lilly Dodson, Loretta Blum, Lou Lat-timore, Neiman-Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Sanger Harris.