OAHU “The Gathering Place”

VISITORS TO OAHU will find that, contrary to popular belief, civilization does not end at Kalakaua Ave., the border of Waikiki and the high-rise haven of the mid-Pacific. With hundreds of high-rise hotels and restaurants packed into a strip only a few miles long, Waikiki has long been the most popular resort destination in the islands. But just down the road, toward Diamond Head and the windward side of the island, civilization continues-and in grand style. Kahala Ave. is sprinkled with million-dollar ocean-front homes, manicured lawns and all the other trappings of the good life. Unexpectedly, about four miles from the hub of Waikiki, the smooth blacktop leads into the courtyard of the Kahala Hilton, where some of the most luxurious accommodations in Honolulu can be found. Far from the madding crowd, the Kahala sits on a strip of beach that, although public, feels private.

But part of Oahu’s charm lies in the activities that can be found in Waikiki. Amid the hustle and bustle, yet removed enough for privacy, the newly remodeled Halekulani Hotel is an oasis in Waikiki’s concrete jungle. The refurbished Halekulani, said to be the only true high-rise luxury hotel in Waikiki, ranks with the Kahala in terms of comfort. And when you’re standing on a spacious penthouse lanai (balcony) overlooking Waikiki Beach and the Pacific Ocean, it’s hard to disagree. The suites have an airy, spacious look and feel. The hotel’s staff members have been European-trained, which partly accounts for their crisp professionalism, starched uniforms and politely formal service.

There are many other good hotels in Waikiki. While the 1,346-room Hawaiian Regent is off the beach, there’s still a lot of activity; and the hotel restaurant, the Third Floor, is a consistent award winner.

The Westin Ilikai, at one end of the strip, is a large, comfortable hotel complex featuring live entertainment by the pool. And the Colony Surf Hotel is a hangout for the star set (the hotel restaurant, Michel’s, is often frequented by the likes of Tom Selleck and other TV personalities).

The list goes on. For a helpful and accurate guide to Oahu accommodations, consult Hawaii Access by Richard Saul Wurman. The author is discriminating, and we found most of his suggestions to be right on target.



YOUR FIRST NIGHT in town is a good time to get acquainted with the sights and sounds that have made Honolulu one of the world’s most frequented vacation locales. Wandering the streets of Waikiki is one way to do it; trying one of the city’s famed restaurants is another.

A common complaint among visitors to Honolulu is that there are more European-style restaurants than authentic Hawaiian ones. Champeaux’s, on the 30th floor of the Westin Ilikai, is trying to remedy that: A native Hawaiian chef, instead of a European-trained chef, is given a free hand with the menu.

If you prefer more conventional continental dining, try Bagwells 2424 in the Hyatt Regency Waikiki. The dimly lit room is a romantic hideaway, and the service is unobtrusive yet helpful. Dishes here are fairly standard, but you can’t go wrong with any of the seafood.

Seafood, logically, is the most featured fare in local restaurants, and one restaurant that does it best is John Dominis’. This restaurant is a seafood experience: Fish swim near dinner tables in man-made lagoons, and a chef prepares sushi and sashimi in the center of the restaurant.

For nightlife action, check the local papers to see where Andy Bumatai is playing: He’s guaranteed to present a good show, as are the Cazimero Brothers. The Tonga extravaganza starring Kalo at the Ala Moana Hotel (which includes dinner) is a good bet; and the Danny Kaleikini show at the Kahala Hilton is a reliable Polynesian review. For dancing, try Spats and Trappers, both in the Hyatt Regency Waikiki.



DON’T LIMIT YOUR visit to wining and dining alone. Oahu is a study in contrasts. While more than 75 percent of Hawaii’s one million people live on Oahu-named “The Gathering Place” by the ancient Hawaiians -most live in and around Honolulu. Outside the metropolitan area, however, thousands of acres of farmland are tilled for sugar cane and pineapple crops; and much of the Hawaiian tradition is preserved in the day-to-day routine of the islanders, who have worked the land and fished for generations. (It’s believed that Oahu was populated before 1000 A.D., but it was added to the all-island-kingdom in 1795 when King Kamehameha, from the island of Hawaii, battled the Oahu king’s forces to surrender.) And because of the island’s accessible harbors, Oahu has become the political, economic, military, educational and cultural center of the state. The Bishop Museum, located at 1335 Kali-hi, is a shrine to the history of the islands and is strongly recommended by the locals as a “must” for first-time visitors.

While Honolulu and Waikiki may set the mood for many tourist guides, they’re only a part of the picture. Explore. Rent a car and 1 drive up Mount Tantalus to Puu Ualakaa State Park. From this vantage point high above the city, you’ll see a panorama that will put into perspective much of what you’ve heard about this island. Moving counterclockwise, you’ll see the locks of Pearl Harbor, then downtown Honolulu. In the forefront, Punchbowl-the crater known as “The Arlington Cemetery of the Pacific” -rises from the ground. Then you’ll see the unbelievable conglomeration of high-rise hotels and condominiums that dot the coast of Waikiki, almost obscuring a view of the ocean. Looking to the left, you’ll see Diamond Head anchoring the windward side of the island. (From this height, it’s easy to discern the diamond-shaped form of the famous volcano.)

Then embark on a modern-day tour of Oahu: Start with the Oahu Market-the local meat, fish and produce market of Chinatown. Here you can witness a little bit of the Old World in action and feast on succulent roast pig, called charsui. The market, owned by 22 families, is a tradition in Honolulu that was begun in 1904. Generations of the same families who began the market continue to work the stalls, selling the produce from local farmers. If you’re an early riser, you can catch the Oahu Market Fish Auction, which is held daily at 6 a.m.

Next, head out of Honolulu for a driving tour of the windward side of the island. Oahu is the only island that can be easily circled in a day by car. And remember that directions on this island are not known as north, south, east or west; they are given as Diamond Head (going toward the volcano), Ewa (going away from Diamond Head), Makai (toward the sea) and Mauka (toward the mountains). Take along an Oahu Drive Guide (available at most hotels) for reliable maps.

You’ll first round the curve of the island at Makapuu Point. Here you’ll see Koko Head Volcano, sheer cliffs and the 1,206-foot Koko Crater, a favorite swimming hole for the locals.

The Koolau Mountains divide Oahu into windward and leeward sections. The dividing line is the Nuuanu Pali, a sheer cliff that provides an excellent view of the communities below. (The Pali Lookout is the site where King Kamehameha the Great, in his effort to unite the islands, defeated the Oahuans in 1795 and drove them over the cliff to their deaths.) On the leeward side of the Pali is the city of Honolulu; on the windward side are the towns of Kailua and Kaneohe.

Continuing on the windward side, you’ll venture into the Waimanalo area, a Hawaiian camping stronghold. The island’s best body-surfing can be found here. And if you’ve got sharp eyes, you may catch a glimpse of the cast members of Magnum, P.I. as they film-the TV detective’s home is along this strip.

Although you should keep track of the main highways-Kalanianaole and Kamehameha-don’t be timid about investigating the network of country roads. In addition to passing rodeo arenas, riding stables and farms, you’ll pass street vendors from whom you can buy such treasures as banana bread, fresh fruits and Malia shaved ice. Also, the farther inland you travel, the closer you’ll get to the magnificent green foliage of the Koolau Mountains.

As you drive through Punaluu County, don’t miss The Texas Paniolo Cafe”. Off the beaten track (53-146 Kamehameha Hwy., in Punaluu), this odd combination of Texana and “Hawaiiana” is the brainstorm of Jeton Allen and Richard Uhrig. (“Paniolo” means cowboy in Hawaiian.) Jalapeno nachos and rattlesnake chili are menu mainstays, and the locals seem to love it. They even serve an imported beer: Lone Star.

Further along the windward coast is Laie, where Brigham Young University-Hawaii is located. Beyond that, along the north shore, is Sunset Beach, home of the Big Surf. Each year during November and December, international surfing competitions are held here. The Turtle Bay Hilton is located on the North Shore.

While you can venture around the tip of the island-the Polynesian Cultural Center (a South Seas Disneyland with celebrated shows) is located on Kamehameha in Laie -driving back during daylight hours is recommended. You can stop for a repast at the Crouching Lion Inn (510666 Kamehameha Hwy. in Kaaawa), observe the lion-shaped rock formation and watch the waves.

HAWAII FIVE – O



“HAWAII, the pride of the U.S.A. The shining star of the nation; Hawaii, the pearl of the seven seas. The fairest land in creation. Her mountains green and her sapphire seas, her golden sands and her tall palm trees. The lilting songs of a happy land with a heart that’s warm and a friendly hand. Hawaii, caressed by the ocean breeze. The Island State sends aloha to her sister states and to all the world…”

No, that’s not a slogan for an advertising pitch; it’s Hawaii’s state anthem. And although we all know that Hawaii is our 50th state, it’s still easy for a visitor to fumble and say, “When I get back to the States…” The Hawaiians are accustomed to such slips; in fact, they’ve been listening to versions of that for 25 years. This year marks the Silver Jubilee of Hawaiian statehood.

And, ironically, Texas played a big part in that. It was two Texas Democrats, Senate Majority Leader Lyndon B. Johnson and House Speaker Sam Rayburn, who pushed through the statehood bill that had been stymied in Congress for 11 years. On March 18, 1959, President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed legislation providing for Hawaii to become the 50th state of the United States. On August 21, 1959, the president signed and issued the Statehood Proclamation, which formally admitted Hawaii to the Union.

LONE STARS AND LUAUS



STETSON HATS and leather belts engraved “Jimmy Lee” might not be standard apparel in Honolulu right now, but if Jerri Camarco has her way, they’ll soon be all the rage. Camarco, a Texas-bred horse trainer, is the vice president of the Texas Good Ol’ Boys Hawaii chapter, a group that exists to infuse Hawaii with Texas culture. She originally came to Hawaii to work in an electronics company with her husband but found that she missed Texas and her horse too much. Instead of packing up and heading home, Camarco sent for her horse, Rebolu-tion, and went to work for Camp Smith Stables.

Texas Good Ol’ Boys drive around Honolulu in an old, beat-up Chevy pickup-rusted from the Hawaiian salt air-with bumper stickers that proclaim “Happiness is Owning an Oil Well” and “On the Eighth Day God Created Cowboys.” Aside from its involvement in community events, the group can often be found at the Country Inn in Pearl City. It’s a country/western bar where, says Jerri, “I keep up my two-step.” The future of the Texas Good Ol1 Boys in Hawaii looks promising: “We’re a charitable organization,” says Camarco. “I promoted the idea and it’s going like hot cakes. I hope it’ll be an asset to the community.”