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HAWAII “The Big Island”

By D Magazine |

USUALLY REFERRED TO as the Big Island, Hawaii also has a second nickname: the Orchid Isle. This sometimes comes as a surprise to sloppy travel agents and doubting other-islanders who think of Hawaii as one big glob of lava. True, Hawaii does have the only active volcanoes in the archipelago, and it does have thousands of acres of exposed lava. And, because it is a relatively young island, it has fewer sand beaches. But Hawaii, which is twice the size of all the other islands combined, is blessed with incredible diversity and grandeur. Sun-drenched western shores, steaming craters, mythical valleys, rolling ranch land, snow-capped Mauna Kea-Hawaii has it all. Perhaps more than any other island, Hawaii will delight and amaze, but unlike some of its tourist-nurtured brethren, Hawaii’s pleasures must be sought out.

The twin peaks of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa form a natural barrier that keeps the weather on the east side of the island very moist, while the western coast remains almost constantly sunny. That’s why the majority of the resorts are located on the Kona side (Hawaii is divided into districts), even though the largest city on the island is Hilo, across the mountains.

When you land at Keahole Airport north of Kailua/Kona, you’ll be struck by the panorama of smooth, black a’a lava, and you may wonder if there is anything else on the island. There is. Just south of the airport, from Kailua down to Keauhou Bay, lie the majority of hotels and resorts, restaurants and bars, shops-and some beaches. A beach on Hawaii, by the way, must be considered a gift from Madam Pele, the Polynesian goddess of volcanic fire. They are beautiful exceptions to the rule that when lava flows, it flows. In these cases, the younger lava flows stopped inches from the sea, leaving the beaches intact.

Near Kailua, the name of the game is play, and whether you are staying in this area or not, it’s worth checking out for charter fishing excursions, sailing, snorkeling, scuba diving, taking helicopter rides, drinking, dining-whatever.

North of the airport, you’ll find the grandest resorts of this or any other Hawaiian island. The oldest-and proudest-is the 20-year-old Mauna Kea Beach Hotel built by Laurence Rockefeller, which was considered the finest resort in the islands for years. This was one of the first resorts to incorporate large-capacity, modern architecture with extensive landscaping and a commitment to peace and privacy. The hotel is a true oasis in the middle of the lava fields: The beach is large, sandy and perfectly shaped, and the three main dining rooms are first-class. The Robert Trent Jones-designed golf course is considered one of the best in the islands.

Several miles to the south, the splendid new Mauna Lani Bay Hotel is giving the Mauna Kea a serious run for its money. The Mauna Lani exudes sleek elegance and unabashed hedonism with a grand central atrium, indoor fishponds, an expansive poolside area and its own branch of Wai-kiki’s famous Third Floor restaurant. Artistically carved among the surrounding lava is the spectacular Francis H. I’i Brown 18-hole golf course, which dramatically winds its tricky 72-par, 6,813-yard course above the crashing surf of the Pacific. This course is a must for golfers, as is the Mauna Kea’s, and even non-golfers will enjoy going along for the ride.

A third jewel on the South Kohala coast is the venerable Kona Village resort, a favorite of celebrities because it gives new meaning to the word isolation. Protected from all signs of civilization by miles of its own property, this collection of simple Polynesian huts ensures perfect peace and quiet, a gorgeous white sand beach and the delicious illusion that paradise was intended for you alone.

The Sheraton Royal Waikoloa is another of the grand South Kohala district resorts. This area is undeveloped, yet has many of the best comforts. Farther south, around Kailua, the rest of the hotels, resorts and action can be found. (The Kona Surf Hotel, which sits on a lava field at the edge of the ocean, is located here.) The point is this: Hawaii is as well-equipped for good living as Oahu or Maui. More important, it always feels untamed.

Northeast of Kailua, the land begins to roll and the air becomes cooler, and if you see a cactus, you’re not dreaming. Here, a quick 2,500 feet above sea level, lies the paniolo town of Waimea on the enormous Parker Ranch. This is the paniolo town, because when New England seaman John Parker came to Hawaii in 1809, he received this gift of land from King Kamehameha the Great in thanks for having domesticated a small herd of wild cattle that the king had been given. Soon Parker had developed a real ranch. He brought in Spanish cowhands to work for him, but Hawaiian slang soon turned espanola into “paniolo,” and now the word means any cowboy on the islands. As for the Parker Ranch, it now covers 250,000 acres, making it the largest privately owned ranch in the United States. The charming town of Waimea (also called Kamuela, which means Samuel, after John Parker’s grandson) is a living memorial to the generations of Parkers since, as the name appears on almost everything. The countryside here is completely seductive-familiar and strange by turns, green but not lush, haunting with its frequent cloudiness and mist.

Farther north are sugar cane fields (once a prominent crop), macadamia nut orchards and, at the end of Highway 240, the entrance to the Big Island’s most spectacular view: Waipio Valley. King Kamehameha was sent here as a boy to grow up isolated from the enemy chiefs who wanted to kill him. Waipio is definitely isolated, and unless you want to hike for three days, you must settle for the view from the end of the road or, better yet, take a helicopter. Waterfall-streaked cliffs plummet into neat taro patches, which in turn seem to spill into the deserted black and green sand beaches. There is a small group of natives living in the valley, much as their ancestors probably lived a hundred years ago, but, for the most part, Waipio is home to nature at her unbridled best, a sight that simply must be seen to be believed.

Heading southeast down the Hamakua Coast, one’s senses are arrested by the fierce coastline to the left and waterfall after waterfall on the right. This road takes you down to Hilo, Hawaii’s county seat, which is the island’s center of commerce and, unfortunately, a usually ignored destination among visitors. Stop here and see pristine Lili-uokalani Gardens, the 30-acre Japanese-inspired park in the center of Hilo named after the Hawaiian Islands’ last monarch. Also investigate the early morning fish auction at Suisan Market and visit the Hilo Orchidarium.

The southeastern part of the island is dominated by 13,667-foot Mauna Loa volcano and the younger volcano, Kilauea, which is more active. More than 377 square miles of this dramatic territory make up the island’s main attraction, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Crater Rim Road affords motorists and hikers on-the-spot experiences of Kilauea with its primeval landscape and steaming cracks. Depending on how much time and energy you have, you can walk into some of the craters and hike through fern forests, lava tubes or the eerie devastation trail-a panorama of dead Ohio trees and unusual pumice formations which were the result of a 1959 Kilauea eruption. Chain of Craters Road is an 11-mile journey through lava flows old and new, with many interesting side trips. And if you’re lucky, you may see an eruption, as they usually occur several times each year.



SUCCESS IN A NUTSHELL



WHEN YOU’RE ON the Big Island, stop by Honokaa on the northern shore and have a look at the Hawaiian Holiday macadamia nut factory and store. Sample some nuts, mention that you’re from Texas and see if you don’t get a smile.

Hawaiian Holiday is the booming baby of two San Franciscans who have a particular affection for Texas. It all started when Paul and Anita DeDomenico came to Hawaii in 1973 on one type of business but ended up staying-with another. Paul, who was president of Ghirardelli Chocolate at that time, needed to meet with the then-struggling Hawaiian Holiday company to talk about getting more nuts for his chocolate; he was concerned that his primary supplier might not be able to provide enough. Taken by the beauty of Honokaa-and the potential of Hawaiian Holiday-he bought the company and in three years turned it around from an eight-year money loser to a bona fide winner, increasing revenues tenfold and expanding the line of products from two to 200. Today, he’s expanding the small orchards by thousands of acres. Oddly enough, more than 90 percent of the limited partners who are financing the current 3,000-acre planting are from Texas-most of them from Dallas.

Paul and Anita have become local heroes to the hundreds of natives Paul re-employed after their previous employer, the Kohala Sugar Co., closed its Honokaa operations in 1975. The couple now divides their time between Hawaii, Dallas, San Francisco and Europe, where they are always looking for new things to do with the savory mac nut. Their Texas investors are heroes to the De-Domenicos. Says Paul: “Texans still have a great spirit that says, ’We can do anything.’” Hawaiian Holiday Macadamia Nut Co., Route 19, Honokaa, Hawaii. Open daily 9 am-6 pm. (808) 775-7743.

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