Adriano ’s. Dallas is finally catching up with California: At last, we have a chichi pizza place. Adriano’s,
just north of Theatre Three in the Quadrangle and under the same ownership as nearby Sergio’s, serves pizzas of the
most outr坢 sorts. How does a combination of goat cheese, smoked salmon and capers grab you? Or vegetable
pizza, heavy with thickly sliced carrots and eggplant? Or a topping of chicken and cream sauce? The decor of
Adriano’s is highest tech, with lots of pipes and vents showing and wonderful violet and plum accents to the basic
black and white. The waitresses wear plaid minidresses in the same purplish colors. The jukebox has selections
ranging from Nat King Cole to New Wave, and the clientele is a fashionable young bunch. Once Adriano’s catches on,
the customers will probably become much more numerous and even more fashionable; Adriano’s has the air of a big
success in the making. And any success would be justified because Adriano’s, in addition to being very hip, serves
some very good food. We wondered not long ago why no one in Dallas served a creditable roast chicken-a simple but
potentially excellent dish. Well, Adriano’s does: crisp-skinned and toasty from the high heat of the mesquite-fueled
pizza oven, but wonderfully juicy inside. Most of the pizza combinations work surprisingly well, especially the one
with pancetta (Italian bacon), tomatoes and mushrooms. Even the seafood pizza is great. The pasta is fresh and good,
sometimes dressed up as an appealing special (try the delicately sauced chicken lasagna with spinach noodles); and
some unusual salads are available. Even the desserts are unique and delicious. Every day you’ll find two homemade
ice creams (during our visit, we were offered a grainy Italian chocolate and a custardy frozen zabaglione lightly
flavored with sweet Marsala wine). Adriano’s is open late into the night-a welcome rarity in Dallas-and its prices
are reasonable. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2262. Mon-Sat 11:30-2 a.m.. Sun 6-10 p.m. MC, V, AE. $$)
New Big Wong. If you want to learn to eat like the Chinese, the New Big Wong is the place to do it. The
original Big Wong burned down some months ago, and now it has reopened on a funky stretch of lower Greenville. The
effect: A few hundred square feet of Chinatown has been transported into a new neighborhood. Most of the time the
clientele is mixed, but late on Sunday nights, the New Big Wong is filled with dozens of Chinese people feasting on
fare that would tempt or sometimes horrify the uninitiated. The 56 chef’s specialties contain such mysteries as beef
tendon in shrimp egg sauce, intestine in black bean sauce and duck web with oyster sauce. For the squeamish, there
are alternatives such as rock salt prawns, simple in seasoning and marvelously subtle in taste and texture. Some of
the greatest delights are the whole-fish dishes (the fish come straight from the tanks full of catfish, eel and
lobster). Our “Crispy Whole Fish Hunan Style” had wonderfully crunchy skin, silky white flesh and an incendiary
sauce. There are few concessions to Americanized tastes here. If you insist on ordering the “Spicy and Tangy Lamb’’
in spite of the waiter’s obvious horror (most Chinese detest lamb), it comes with dozens of slices of fresh ginger.
(Ginger, the Chinese traditionally believe, tames the strong taste of the lamb and draws out the evil spirits from
the meat.) If you realize that you aren’t meant to eat the ginger, you can enjoy the pungent, earthy taste of this
dish enormously. The sweet and sour spareribs are also delicious, if you share the Chinese fondness for wrestling
with a thoroughly chewy morsel of meat. Even the standard appetizer platter contains more authentically Chinese
tidbits than the usual ones: butterfly shrimp on toast, fried scallops and oysters and a spring roll with a somewhat
alarming green mustard filling. The decor of the New Big Wong is a little fancier than that of its earlier
incarnation, but the feeling of the place is still a strange mixture of unpretentious homeyness and exotic
adventure. Don’t stay away from it out of timidity; there are plenty of nice, normal Chinese dishes available,
cooked with a zest unparalleled in Dallas. But do carefully inquire about what you are getting. The New Big Wong
pan-fried noodles, for instance, come with a topping that includes (among other things) squid, pork liver and sea
cucumber (sea slugs). And if a waiter tells you that you won’t like a dish, listen to him. He may be right. (2121
S. Greenville. 821-4198. Daily 11-4 a.m. MC, V, AE. $$)
L’Oustau.Sometimes it seems that area restaurants are playing a game of musical chairs. L’Oustau, formerly
located in downtown Fort Worth, closed up shop a little while ago only to reopen in the downtown Dallas quarters
recently vacated by Brasserie Calluaud. Lunch at L’Oustau wasn’t entirely successful. The salad benefited from
Boston lettuce and a respectable vinaigrette, and the minestrone was loaded with vegetables, but both the salmon en
croute with white butter sauce and the chicken in pastry with cream sauce suffered from rich sauces that overpowered
dry meat. No brewed decaffeinated coffee is available for those avoiding caffeine; you’ll be served instant. Dinner
was even more disappointing, though we’ll admit that we did visit L’Oustau soon after it began to offer dinner, so
our experience may have been a result of L’Oustau’s not having had a chance to settle down. Much of what sounded
good on the menu failed to please. The sweetbread paté en croute was bland, and the butter and garlic sauce that
accompanied the escargots on mushroom caps was heavy and boring. As for the entrées, our shrimp were overcooked and
tough, and the medallions of veal were sour from too much lemon. The highlights of our visit were the salads and the
rich desserts. (SPG Building, 1530 Main, 747-2117. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; dinner: Tue-Sat 6- 9:30. MC, V, AE.
$$$)
Ristorante La Bella. Our first visit to La Bella convinced us that an interesting, new Italian restaurant had
finally come to a Far North Dallas neighborhood sorely in need of a good place to dine. Especially appealing was the
specialty, frutta di Adriatoci-a lightly cooked seafood stew containing fresh mussels, clams, shrimp and fish in a
garlicky wine broth. The other seafood dishes, like the shrimp cooked with olives and mushrooms, were also
memorable. But returning to La Bella called more attention to its limitations. The hot antipasto platter featured
some great ideas: fried mozzarella and baked clams. The cheese was fine, but the clams were uninspired, and the
accompanying hot pick-led vegetables were odd in the extreme. The same red sauce, tingling with a touch of cayenne,
doused the chicken cacciatore, lasagna and the side dishes of overcooked pasta. None of the chicken or veal dishes
we’ve tried have measured up to the seafood. But La Bella is a friendly, cheerful place, and the food-when it’s at
its best-is excellent. (6757 Arapaho. 991-2828. Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat 5-11 p.m., Sun 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
MC, V, AE. $$)
Ristorante Lombardi. Old-world charm meets you at the door of the new Fort Worth Lombardi’s in Sundance
Square. The European-styled courtyard, set back slightly from the street, is replete with black wrought-iron tables
and chairs and soft music drifting through hanging plants. Inside, the aroma of pasta and saut坢ed seafood mingles
with the scurry of bustling waiters, who effortlessly glide between the crowded tables in the elegantly appointed
dining room. Despite confirmed reservations, we waited more than 20 minutes for a table, but when we were seated,
the maitre ’d apologized for the the wait, and menus and a wine list appeared within seconds. Our waiter, a Canadian
from Alberta who spoke with an Italian accent except when he became busy and forgot, suggested the scampi costa
smeralda maggiordomo (shrimp sautéed with butter, garlic, red pepper and tomtoes in a white wine sauce) for an
appetizer. The unusual red sauce was a bit spicy but not overpowering. For the main course, we sampled the pesce
spada griglia (grilled sword-fish marinated with Italian herbs) and sampled di vitello belinda (veal
scaloppinesautéed with brandy and mushrooms in acream sauce). Both dishes were expertlyprepared; the large cut of
swordfish wastender, and the veal was smothered in a not-too-rich sauce that was entirely satisfying.(300 Main,
Sundance Square. (817) 877-1729.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner:Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30 p.m., Fri & Sat
5:30-11p.m. Reservations. $$$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid
preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate a general price range.
$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ Expensive. Expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.
$$$$ Very expensive.
“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will take reservations.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit
cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
Nindicates a restaurant located on or north of LBJ Freeway.
BARBECUE
Dickey’s. We talkin’ lean, high-quality meat heah. boy. and good sweet slaw and plenty o’ beans, plus juicy
corn on the cob that’ll squish butter right over on your lady if you don’t watch out. This place is crawlin’ with
good ol’ boys and bidnissmen around noon, but they don’t keep ya standin’ long. You may need a little extry sauce on
the maat, ’less you like it dry. but this ain’t the French Room, so just git on up ’n’ git it. These ol’ boys’ll
give you some ambiance, too: They got signs up with the words spelled like real people say ’em, like “cold slaw” and
“sandwitches.” It’s a hoot. And look for the little proverbs on the chalkboard, like: “Girls, be sure you’re right,
then ask your husband.” Shoot, that’s tellin’ ’em. Just one hitch: That banana puddin’ tastes like it’s been cozyin’
up to a test tube. No way that’s homemade. (4610 N Central Expwy, 821-1587; 13613 Dallas Pkwy, 233-3721;
7770 Forest,361 -6537. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
The Rib. This may be the fanciest barbecue place in town, what with its tuxedoed waiters and candlelight, but
the touches of old-plantation elegance don’t interfere with the business here: lip-smacking barbecued chicken,
brisket and (drumroll, please) ribs. Everything we tasted was good – the family-style beans and sweet German potato
salad, the soft, hot garlic bread, the ice-cold beer-but nothing compares to ribs at The Rib. Our waiter warned us
at the beginning of our meal not to fill up on the appetizer of smoked sausage, but we couldn’t hold back. By the
time we had finished the main course, we were bursting at the seams. All that was lacking, we decided, was soap and
water to wash the remainder of our meal off of our hands and face. And then our waiter brought us a bowl of hot
water with lemon to do just that. (5741 W Lovers Lane. 357-8139. Daily 5-10 pm. Carryout available daily, 4-10
pm. All credit cards. $$)
Roscoe White’s Easy Way. You don’t just happen upon what has been affectionately referred to as ’The Greasy
Way” by a generation of Highland Park residents who were weaned on Roscoe’s barbecue sauce. With its “atmosphere” of
sights and smells out of a grade-B truck stop and service reminiscent of “Laverne and Shirley” (without the laughs),
there’s little on the surface at this place to entice you to stay. But persevere: There’s some decent home-style
barbecued beef, ribs and chicken-fried steak to be had here. Portions are good-sized but not gargantuan; and the
sandwiches are a better bet than the combo plates. Most differs from that of the management. The atmosphereis
elegant, to a point: The colors are rich, the walls arecovered with dark wood paneling, and a fireplaceadorns a far
wall. But if elegance is synonymous with intimacy, the atmosphere here is lacking. Our waiter wasfriendly, efficient
and helpful with menu selections, butsomehow his loo-chummy attitude didn’t seem to meshwith the tone the management
is trying to achieve. Asfor the food, our cream of yellow pepper soup wasperfect, and the spinach salad with bleu
cheese andbacon dressing was good, although the dressing wassmooth, not chunky. But the smoked salmon appetizerwas a
disappointment. The tournedos of beef were excellent: The sauce was light in color and flavor, and themeat was
tender and cooked to perfection. The veal,served in a similar creamy sauce, was also excellent.The vegetables,
however, were not top-notch-theasparagus was bitter, and the potato souffle was toogarlicky. Desserts are Agnew’s
specialty, and the white-chocolate mousse is a masterpiece. (15501 DallasPkwy in Adelstem Plaza, Suite 300.
458-0702. Lunch:Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Satseatings at 6:30 & 9:30 Closed Sun.
Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
Belvedere. Cozy as an Austrian country inn, with a fireplace that blazes year round, Belvedere may be one of
the best-kept secrets in town. With a less-than-obvious location (it’s upstairs in a Lomo Alto apartment-hotel),
this Teutonic cousin of The Chimney is easy to miss. But don’t: The service is pampering; the atmosphere, romantic,
the food, top-notch; the prices, fair. Veal lovers will rejoice at the variety of preparation available, from simple
medallions sautéed in lemon and butter to a piquant veal steak in Dijon mustard sauce and capers. Veal Oscar with
crab and asparagus is good but would benefit from a less liberal dousing of hollandaise. Other standouts: the house
wine, the vichyssoise, the Belvedere salad with bleu cheese and the ’Austrian snowball’ – a vanilla ice cream ball
rolled in toasted almonds and laced with chocolate sauce. (4242 Lomo Alto in Crestpark Hotel. 528-65 10. Lunch:
Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Bohemia. We’d give up dining at a hundred North Dallas continental palaces for a single meal at this tiny,
family-owned Bohemian restaurant with its frilly lace curtains, flickering votive candles, warm bread and soft
butter. The atmosphere is undeniably romantic; dinner is served by descendents of the Czechoslovakian babushka who
works wonders in the kitchen. We tried boiled beef, the sort of stick-to-your-ribs entree you’d expect from a
Bohemian mama, and were wholly contented with the stout serving of beef, sour-cream gravy and dill sauce. The
sauerbrauten was prepared in the Czech manner (that means cream) and arrived with a side dish of cranberries. The
duo was delightful: it’ll be hard to try something different on our next visit. Although the main dishes here are
plenty filling, don’t skip the soup (the potato has a hearty, beefy taste). The chocolate mousse is laced with just
the right amount of orange liqueur; or if you don’t have room, try a giant, scrumptious slab of strudel. (2810 N
Henderson. 826-6209. Mon-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. V, AE, DC, CB. Reservations.
$$$)
Blom’s. Cool pastels mix well with Gershwin tunes. The food is, for the most part, excellent. The lobster,
salmon and scallop terrine prepared with dill and tarragon was smooth; each seafood flavor was distinguishable. The
artichoke bottoms filled with crab were fresh and were served with a light, buttery sauce. The cream of watercress
soup was smooth, rich and chilled perfectly. Delightful tart sorbets in five or six different flavors are offered
before the entree, and a tree of complimentarypetit fours appears after every meal. (The Westin Hotel,13340
Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494. Lunch: Mon-Fri11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-10:30; Sunday brunch:1030-2:30. Jackets and ties
required. Reservations. Allcredit cards $$$$)
Café Capri. Café Capri is another of the Old World-style, standardly continental new kids in town. The
parking lot is full of expensive cars, the cloak room overflowswith expensive fur coats, and diners here leave
happily filled with high-quality cuts of beef, veal, fish or fowl.But Cafe Capri is better than most newcomers of
itsgenre. The sauces on our entrées were prepared at thetable, and although we were a bit nervous as wewatched our
waiter submerge a beautiful steak Dianein thick brown sauce, we were relieved and delightedto taste the light blend
of red wine, cream, mushrooms,shallots, Dijon mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Thestrawberries flambé dessert
alone made the drive toAddison worthwhile. The mixture of fresh berries,orange rind, brown sugar and Grand Marnier
toppedwith whipped cream was spectacular. (15107 AddisonRoad, north of Belt Line. 960-8686. Lunch:
Mon-Fri11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit
cards$$)
Calluaud’s. Marline and Guy Calluaud have resumed their lunch service at the home location on McKinney
Avenue, and it’s just like old times. The luncheon salads are as elegant as ever, and the lamb chops with french
fries have also returned intact. So have the omelettes, which are beautifully presented with green beans and
shredded carrots. Dinner here is still one of Dallas’ most sensual experiences. Everything-from the expertly
assembled champagne cocktails to the excellent after-dinner liqueurs-is orchestrated with quiet perfection. We began
our meal with pheasant pate with pistachio and truffles en croute, followed by the house salad (asparagus, tomato,
artichoke hearts and avocado on a bed of lettuce with a Dijon mustard dressing). Next came the entrees: duck with
two sauces (mushroom and béarnaise with tomato), grilled sea bass in tomato sauce with basil, tournedos and filet
en croute in madeira sauce with truffles. All were impeccably prepared and artfully served. For dessert: soufflés
-what else? (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30-2:30; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 &
9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE. $$$$)
D REVISITS
Crackers. Owner Gus Katsigris takes great pride in the meals he serves in this charming 80-year-old house.
The specialties are Greek dishes: Dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), ouzo meatballs (deep-fried with lots of onions and
spices) and Greek salads are some exceptional examples. Hamburgers, quiches and sandwiches are also offered to
please all palates. Whatever your mood for the evening, don’t forget to order the soup – it’s always a creamy
delight and is served with one of Crackers’ famous cheese crackers. A light menu (consisting of a number of small
portions of Crackers’ specialties) is now offered, and a charming patio has been added at the front of the house.
(2621 McKinney. 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3, Sun 11-5: dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat 5-midnght.
MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Cafe Royal. With so many elegant new restaurants in town, it’s easy to forget about Cafe Royal. The place has
settled quickly into a kind of matronly middle age and adopted the mannerisms of its rivals-a pianist who noodles
slightly too loudly and complimentary sorbets served up between courses, ostensibly to clear the palate but, in
fact, so sweet they set your teeth on edge. And on a Saturday night, the place can be half empty. The food, too, can
be a bit dowdy (no more of those nouvelle touches that seemed so chic when Cafe Royal opened) and there are lapses:
fishy-smelling crayfish and butter that tastes as if it had been sitting in the fridge for days. But there can still
be magic in this kitchen, especially when the dish is a classical one with a little zing to it. The chevreuil
sauce adds a delightful touch to a tender filet of beef, and the thick veal steak and accompanying shrimp are
ideal in texture and taste. The kitchen also serves up the most perfect souffles in town, both as appetizers (try
the unusual one with goat cheese) and as dessert. Despite the occasional blemishes, the overpriced wine list and the
continental serving staff that tries a bit too hard, Cafe Royal can still offer a better meal than some of its more
fashionable competitors. (650 N Pearl in Plaza of the Americas. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner:
Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards.
$$$$)
Ceret. This isolated corner of downtown has been transformed into a true French outpost. Ceret tries to bring
authentic bistro food to Dallas at popular prices ($20 for two for a four-course dinner) and is mostly successful.
The chefs specialty is a simplified feulleté (puff pastry) that reaches optimum crispness and tenderness. Other
items vary from fair to excellent. Among the appetizers, the paté of duck liver and the terrine of duck breast were
first-rate; but the salmon mousse had a tinny aftertaste. The outstanding seafood offering was the sautéed
scallops. The steak, although cut too thin to be cooked truly rare.was preferable to the duck breast, which was
tough. All the desserts we sampled were scrumptious. (703 McKinney. 7200297. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner:
Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. MC, V, AE. $$$)
D REVISITS
Francisco’s. This is a perfect romantic hideaway – dark, pleasantly musty and intimate. Service is tremendous
– efficient but not hovering – and the food is exceptional. The “Champignons Farci” (mushrooms stuffed with ground
veal) are delicious starters, as are the elegant veal crepes in a smooth hollandaise sauce. The lobster bisque is
tomatoey and flavorful. The sirloin steak with crushed green peppercorns is the shining star among the numerous beef
offerings; several poultry and fish specialties are also available. For dessert, the peach melba is a nice, light
selection, accompanied by a choice from a cart full of a wide variety of cognacs and liqueurs. (2917 Fairmount.
749-0906. Lunch: Tue- Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 6-11; Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE.
$$$)
The French Room. The French Room retains its status as the crème de la cremeof fine Dallas
restaurants. The quality of cuisine is, to date, unrivaled. In fact, while savoring succulent braised lobster and
tenderloin of lamb, we doubted we could have fared better. The French Room’s management makes sure that along with
superb cuisine comes service that aims to make each diner feel like a member of the first estate. Although the menu
selections hold their own, we ordered each course of our meal from among the specials of the day and weren’t
disappointed. The duck salad was large enough to have been a meal in itself, and every sumptuous bite was heavenly.
For dessert, the fruit melange topped with a creamy sauce and the tart raspberry pastry in a caramel sauce were
wonderful, though both were a tad too rich for our tastes. (Add-phus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6
30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
D REVISITS
The Grape. Quaint, cozy and European is the way to describe this small, neighborhood establishment. The
atmosphere is casual and intimate, with tables close together and lights dimmed. The European cuisine is
exceptional, whether you’re ordering a cheese and fruit board, a vegetable and dip platter or a meal. The Grape’s
homemade cream of mushroom soup is a must-buttery and full of fresh mushrooms and mild onions. Several daily
specials are displayed on chalkboards; chicken en croute is a specialty, and the fish is always fresh and almost
always cooked to perfection. As could be expected from the name, the wine list is extraordinary. (2808 Greenville
at Goodwin 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11.Fri & Sat 6 pm-12:30 am. All credit cards.
$$)
Jean Claude. There is an obvious explanation for the incredible popularity of the pleasant, “terribly French”
Jean Claude restaurant. Quite simply, it is Jean Claude himself. Besides being a consistently gifted chef, Jean
Claude’s personal warmth spreads from his open cook station throughout the tiny dining room, engendering good will
and cleansing the air of any pretension. Our selections were light, beautiful to look at and practically flawless.
The hot crab and lobster salad with vinaigrette and fresh dill and the scallops en casserole proved wise beginnings,
especially with hearty helpings of hot. homemade wheat bread. Our next indulgences were duckling in ginger and soy
sauce and fresh Dover sole in a white wine sauce with mushrooms. The duck was superb, and the sole was good, if a
little dull. After cleansing our palates with slightly tart greens, we launched into the chocolate mousse and hot
chocolate souffle. At a fixed price of $31 50 per person, Jean Claude’s meals are worth every penny. (2404 Cedar
Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 & 9 pm. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC. V, AE, DC. $$$$)
Le Rendez Vous. What a compliment to our city that we can eat a romantic, candle-lit dinner at a pleasant
French bistro and deem it only average. Such is the case at Le Rendez Vous. The service was a little too lax. and at
times the waiters seemed more interested in talking to each other than in waiting on tables. The menu is ambitious,
with unusual selections that include cream of green bean soup and a tantalizing selection of five dessert soufflés.
The restaurant also offers a sidewalk café, but for the money, we’ve had better food. The scallops were inexcusably
tough and tasteless, and the shish kebab with rice was so salty we could feel our arteries squeezing shut. Although
the crab au gratin appetizer was perfect and the vegetables were tender and fresh, the souffles were
disappointing-they looked gorgeous but lacked in taste and soul. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Lunch: Tue-Fri
11-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1 am. Sun 11-11. Closed Mon. Reservations All credit cards.
$$$)
Lurtino’s. Lurtino’s boasts a menu that changes daily and includes Northern Italian and continental cuisine.
The selection and quality have improved commendably. The appetizers include cold and hot antipasto plates, garlicky
escargot, spaghetti with chunky home-made tomato sauce (perhaps a bit too sweet), and thecreamiest, best-seasoned
fettucine Alfredo we’vesampled recently. We tried a whole live lobster cookedin a white wine sauce, which arrived
convenientlycracked, served with lemon and a side dish of seasoned butter- proof positive that Lurtino’s
continentalcuisine equals its Italian fare. The veal piccata wasserved in a fairly heavy, buttery sauce that was
appealing but made the dish too rich to finish. (13601 Prestonat Alpha in Carillon Plaza. Suite C22. 661 – 9766.
Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11.Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All creditcards
$$$)
La Vieille Varsovie (The Old Warsaw). With all its plush elegance, this old-line dining establishment boasts
a few charming eccentricities in its decor. Note the pink flamingos dancing gaily across the forest-green walls.
Hear the gentle blending of violin and piano as the music drifts delicately across the spacious room. Watch the
multitudinous captains and waiters weave in and out of tables, attending to napkins that need placing, cigarettes
that need lighting, pheasants that need carving. In the midst of all the theatrics, it can be extremely difficult to
keep one’s mind on one’s meal The artichoke heart appetizer with shrimp and raspberry vinaigrette tasted a trifle
boring, with nary a hint of raspberry. The fresh seafood soup fared better, as did our entrees: poached Dover sole
with shrimp in lobster sauce, and veal with mushrooms. Both were as tender as one would hope, served in generous
portions and accompanied by light, smooth vegetable timbales After a brief pause (long enough to witness an unbeliev
able flaming drink production), strawberries in fresh cream and a chocolate souffle were perfect endings. (2610
Maple 5280032. Sun-Thur 6-11 pm. Fri & Sal 6-11:30 pm. Reservations. Jackets required All credit cards $$$$)
D REVISITS
Manhattan. This continental restaurant in the north-west corner of Preston Forest Shopping Center can’t
decide whether to be formal or relaxed. The heavy curtains and the tuxedoed waiters portend pretension, but the logo
of skyscrapers and other stark details don’t quite fit. The food, too. falls betwixt and between. The veal is of
good quality and is cooked well, but it sits on canned asparagus, the chicken Kiev is juicy but bland. The menu
doesn’t contain much adventure, either: Anybody for another round of overpriced stuffed mushrooms and vichyssoise?
We have no major complaints about Manhattan – the quality of the cooking is generally good – we just wonder if it
has found its identity yet. (1482 Preston Forest Square. 385-8221. Lunch: Mon-Fri& Sun 11-2:30; dinner:
daily 5:30-11. All credit cards.
La Champagne. The French dining room of the newRegistry Hotel, La Champagne, looks smashing-rumor has it that
it was decorated and redecorated fivetimes before it opened. But we’ve found it difficult tohave a good meal and a
good time here. The appetizerof scallops with seaweed boasted perfectly steamed,silky scallops; and the galantine of
wild duck wasmarvelously rich with its foie gras and truffles. But therewas an off note in each of the sauces, and
similardisharmonies have marred many dishes. It seemschurlish to complain about La Champagne in the lap ofso much
luxury, but all the fancy touches can be wearying if the main thing – the food – does not excite. (TheRegistry
Hotel, 15201 Dallas Pkwy 386-6000 Daily6-11 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)
Les Saisons. Within a setting that resembles turn-of-the-century suburban Paris. Les Saisons serves meals
that are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent. We enjoyed shrimp Les Saisons (shrimp served in a
delicious cream sauce with chablis, mushrooms and shredded carrots) and coquille St. Jacques (tiny bay scallops
served with orange quarters). The cream of cauliflower soup was unexceptional, but we were warmly reassured by the
onion soup topped with lots of melted cheese. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102.
Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 30-11:30. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Maple Street East. This establishment, located close to downtown, has become quite popular since it opened
more than a year ago. The elegant decor of the restored Victorian home provides an excellent atmosphere for anything
from a business lunch to a romantic dinner. The fettuccine Alfredo (offered either as an appetizer or a luncheon
entrée) is rich and smooth, the lamb chops are tender and grilled to perfection, and the white chocolate mousse is
worth the calories. An elegant private dining room, complete with a picture window overlooking the downtown skyline,
is offered for special occasions, though service is sometimes slow. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: 11:30-2:30:
dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11:30. MC, V. AE. $$$)
The Mansion. Its fine to have enough money to dine in all the best restaurants and to wear all the right
clothes, but if ever the gorgeous spread that the Mansion consistently brings forth leaves you feeling blasé, it’s
time to seek counseling Once we were seated comfortably in a dining room replete with molded ceilings and rich wood
furnishings, the music of squeaking wine corks and laughter set us at ease. We began our meal with a salad of lump
crab in a lobster dressing set on a bed of three kinds of lettuce When our salad tasted less than superior, we were
vaguely disappointed, but the wild, meaty mushrooms in flaky puff pastry that followed were delicious and all but
redeemed the Mansion. We sampled a huge, perfectly grilled salmon steak and a serving of crisp asparagus with
hollandaise sauce We also tried the tenderloin strip, which, our waiter informed us. automatically comes medium
rare. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30: lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2: brunch: Sat noon-2 30 &
Sun 11-2:30: tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30: dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11. supper: Mon- Thur 10:30-midmght, Fri &
Sat 11 pm-midnight. Reservations. Jackets and ties required, except at brunch. All credit cards. $$$$)
Mozart’s. Mozart’s gives the city’s best Austrianrestaurants (Belvedere or The Chimney, depending onthe phase
of the moon) a new challenge. The RinderLendenschnitte Habsburg, a forgivably tough filetmignon topped with tasty
goose liver and juicy mushrooms, was very tilling, and the combination of flavorswas extraordinary The cordon bleu
consisted of adelicate crust and tender veal. The side dishes atMozart’s were served in wonderfully ample
portions.We also enjoyed fresh spatzle (sautéed noodles) andmixed marinated vegetables. (Sheraton Park
Central.12720 Merit. 385 3000. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30 All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Rolf’s. This elegant new German restaurant in Caruth Plaza combines authentic specialties with standard
continental dishes and cooks both with flair. Among the appetizers, we sampled an excellent smoked eel with dill
sauce A wide assortment of entrees is offered: tender schnitzel paprika and a racier rinds roulade (braised beef),
which come with good German side dishes like spatzle (fresh noodles) and potato dumplings. The salads are complex
marvels, and for dessert the apple strudel with vanilla sauce can’t be beat. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy.
Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Thur 11-2:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11. Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30.
Closed Sunday. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Patty’s. Patry’s was the second French restaurant inDallas when it opened in 1968 Although
splashierestablishments have since come on the scene, a Patry’swaiter couldn’t have spoken more accurately when
hesaid, “You know, you come here when all you want isgood food and conversation.” Some might miss thepomp and
circumstance – the carpet can only be described as durable, there’s not a harpist in sight, and thecrowd is
establishment rather than chic. At lunchtimeour experience was less than ideal; the veal was overcooked and the
staff was rushed. It’s better to unwindat Patry’s in the evening, when the chef and the housestaff have time to
perform. The beef is reliably tenderand cooked to perfection; the salads are fresh, thoughplain, and tossed with
light dressing and fresh groundpepper at your table Try the leeks stuffed with veal andpork, they’re |ust spicy
enough to make you wonder ifthey are indeed leeks, and the small dish is topped witha slightly sweet cream sauce Our
pepper steak and thefilet mignon. both served with heaps of fresh wildmushrooms, were tender and delicious. For
dessert, weindulged in crépes suzette Here the results were worththe tableside theatrics-sweet and smooth, without
atrace of bitterness from the orange rinds. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2, dinner: Sun
&Tue-Thur 6-10 30, Fri & Sat 6-11 Closed Mon Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Pyramid Room. This is an old fave of Dallas’ elite, and try as we might to be impudent and critical, we’re
speechless with admiration (or this flashy Fairmont Hotel restaurant that reminds us a little of both Frank Sinatra
and King Tut. The best thing about the Pyramid Room is that even amid all the posh surroundings, there’s real
comfort and gorgeous, delicious food that creates a mood all its own. The Pyramid Room hired a new executive chef,
R.J. Lukas, soon after our last visit, and we’re anxious to taste his cuisine. But the roast pheasant cooked with
mango that we enjoyed on our previous trip would be hard to top. And the vegetables – wonderful, tender asparagus
and some artichoke bottoms stuffed with celery – were top-notch. The tree of glazed cakes and fruits served before
we ordered dessert was a charming follow-up to a very fine meal. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross at Akard. 748-7258. Lunch:
Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations recommended All credit cards $$$$)
D REVISITS
Three Vikings. Valkommen to Fjord Country on lower Greenville We can’t swear that this place is authentic,
but we promise it has character, from the potato pancakes to the maps of Scandinavia taped to the rough wood
walls. Lovingly tended by its owners (the Edmans family). Three Vikings has a bustling, neighborhood feel-the sort
of place where people come in all sizes and shapes. The food is |ust as diverse and, generally, is very good. Steaks
are every bit as tasty and tender as your best backyard filet, and who can argue with a full quarter-pound of lump
crab stuffed inside? Veal Norway (pounded thin, stuffed with crab and topped with a white cream sauce) is a winner,
and so are the potato pancakes But the real standout here is a Finnish shrimp chowder – the smoothest, heartiest
we’ve ever had-including Boston’s best. Chocolate cheese pie, the dessert Three Vikings “is famous for,” is a cool,
melt-m-your-mouth blend of cheesecake and chocolate mousse. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin 827-6770. Mon-Thur6-10pm,
Fri & Sat 6-11 pm,Sun 5.30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
GOURMET CARRYOUT
Marty’s. Some people dream of being stranded on a desert island, well settle for being stranded inside
Marty’s, the Oak Lawn gourmet takeout and grocery that is “essential to the epicure” Some of us borderline epicures
might approach such a place with healthy trepidation, but Marty’s is a mouthwatering wonderland of sweets, cheeses,
fresh fruits, meats, vegetables and wines. Choose a picnic basket and fill it on your way to the checkout line. If
you have trouble putting it all together, get a current copy of Marty’s weekly menu. We enjoyed some delicious cold
lettuce soup, mushroom a la Greave. roasted stuffed squab and some heavenly banana-nut cheesecake at home with our
own candlelight and crystal. Our only complaint: Don’t count on Marty’s promise that “containers are oven- and
microwave-safe.” (3316 Oak Lawn 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
Mirabelle. The menu at this bright, airy shop varies daily and is incredibly inventive. The pistachio spiced
country terrine is an excellent paté. Salads are offered in a wide range of combinations A good standby is the
tarragon chicken salad, and there’s always a pasta salad or two, some with seafood or meat. We tried a mixture of
baby shells, peas and ham strongly seasoned with fresh basil But Mirabelle’s crowning achievement is its desserts:
The fresh plum and apple tarts are excellent, as is the sour cream cheesecake served with a melba sauce. The cookies
and bran muffins are tops-and well worth their hefty prices. (74 Highland Park Village. 528-7589 Tue-Sat 10:30
am-7 pm: Sun & Mon noon-6 pm MC. V. AE $$$)
INDIAN
Sahib. Every time we go to Sahib we’re delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor and
the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Our favorite dish is the Maharaia Sahib’s mughlai biryani (lamb cooked with
herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs) It tastes even better with some sweet
mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread) Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so
remember that you can turn down the “Elephant’s Memory” (a pina coladalike drink) and the mango ice cream.
(9100 N Central Ex-pwy in Caruth Plaza. 987-2301 Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner. daily 5:30-11. All credit
cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Kebab-N-Kurry. It may not be a great compliment to say that Kebab ’n’ Kurry is the best restaurant in
Richardson, since culinary ambition has always found it hard going in this neighborhood But well say it anyway This
plain little place serves the best food of any sort for miles around The specialties cooked in the tan-door (a clay
barbecue oven) are juicy and delicately spiced, the sauces in the various curries rich and piquant Lunch is a
special bargain here On weekdays there is a nice array of entrees (kebabs and curries ranging from chicken in a
spicy spinach sauce to shrimp with tomato and yogurt), all served with soup or salad, a vegetable curry and rice On
weekends, the buffet is a feast, even including an Indian dessert in its low overall price. At the new location on
Walnut Hill, the food seems to be |ust as good, and the room is less crowded. (401 N Central Expwy. Suite 300.
Richardson. 231-5556:2620 Walnut Hill. 350-6466. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30. dinner: Sun-Thur 530-10. Fri & Sat
5:30-10:30: brunch Sat &Sun 11 30-2 30 at Richardson location. Lunch daily 11-2: dinner daily 5:30 10 30 at Walnut
Hill location. Reservations. MC. V. AE $)
ITALIAN
La Trattoria Lombardi; Ristoranti Lombard!. It would be difficult to picture a nirvana that didn’t include an
occasional alfresco lunch at ombardi’s on Hall Street The patio is Old World-style, the breezes are fine and the
offerings are among the best Northern Italianfare in town. Smart starters are a piquant combinationof mozzarella,
juicy beefsteak tomatoes and fresh basilleaves or a basket full of crisp, tender fried calamari. Anassorted
antipasto plate is truly rewarding, with ampleportions and well-rounded tastes. Lombardi’s pasta islegendary, with
the tortellini vying for the top slot intown. The vegetables were a bit on the skimpy sidewhen served at lunch on
Hall Street but were inspirational accents to dinner at the Adelstein Plaza location. Diced eggplant and creamed
spinach cleverlywrapped in a cut-out potato round were among thebest dishes in a lengthy and memorable meal. In
addition to creative and varying pasta entrees, Lombardi’soffers an impressive list of fish and veal dishes
includinga superb baby lobster, fine sea bass poached withshellfish and wrapped in foil, and veal
scallopinedelicately flavored with lemon and orange. Top it offwith one of the Lombardi family’s souffles. (2916
Hall,823-6040, 528-7506; 15501 Dallas Pkwy in AdelsteinPlaza. 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur
5:30-10:30, Fri & Sal 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Allcredit cards, $$$)
D REVISITS
Campsi’s. This is the stuff of which institutions are made: good food, reasonable prices and a great
atmosphere. Dine in one of two dimly lit rooms, lined with celebrity photos and crowded with vinyl benches and
plastic tables. The shrimp scampi is among the best around, and the veal marsala with rich mushroom sauce,
fettuccine and garlic toast is delectable. The pizza, of course, is a Dallas legend. Campisis is casual, and the
service is very good, but expect to wait in line almost any night after 7:30. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355.
827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midmght. Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations lor six or more. No credit cards:
personal checks accepted. $$)
Mario’s. Mario’s is stereotypical of fine Italian restaurants in all the best ways. Black tuxedos, white
tablecloths and red furnishings lend elegance to rooms decorated with antique vases, wildlife prints and
candlelight. We first sampled the sharp, locally made cheese served with bread, then moved into a well-paced meal
that began with an appetizer of ciappino (an attractive ragout of crab, scallops and mussels in a basil-flavored
tomato sauce). Mario’s pepper steak was huge and tender, but an order of scaloppine con car-ciofi (veal scallops
sauteed with artichoke hearts and mushrooms) was less exciting than we had anticipated. Although the veal was good,
the sauce and artichoke hearts lacked lilt. Mario’s has good desserts and prompt service, but the dish well remember
is the fettuccine-it’s perfect. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm,
Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)
Now That’s Italian. For starters in this casual little Oak Lawn restaurant, we enjoyed creamy onion soup,
greaseless beer-batter fried mushrooms and polenta (a concoction made from deep-fned cornmeal served with lots of
tomatoey marmara sauce). Our main courses were a whole-wheat pizza for one, vegetarian lasagna. a meatball sandwich
and a heaping plate from the soup-and-salad bar. As toppings for the pizza, we chose artichoke hearts and Italian
sausage; the combination was wonderful, but the flavor was almost overwhelmed by the hot mozzarella. The vegetarian
lasagna had a smaller assortment of vegetables than we had hoped, but what was there was fresh and crisp. Overall,
Now That’s Italian is promising, but on a return visit, service was careless. We especially like the patio dining
and the logo of the Dallas skyline, which includes the leaning tower of Reunion. (3851 Cedar Springs. 522-2340.
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 2. dinner: Mon-Fri 5 pm-midmght: Sat & Sun 1 pm-midnight. MC. V, AE. $$)
Sergio’s. Seven fine veal dishes and an array of homemade pasta highlight Sergio’s innovative, elegant menu.
Our tagliarini salmone (pasta in a salmon sauce) was rich and flavorful without being heavy. The assort. ed hot
appetizers, including shrimp, mussels and squid, were savory and delicate. The tentazione salad of avocado, mangoes
and papayas served with walnuts and lime juice dressing made a perfect light lunch. Sergio’s dining room is
semiformal. and the prices are surprisingly reasonable. (2800 Routh in the Quadrangle, Suite 235. 742-3872.
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3; dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations for dinner only All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
P.J.’s Ristorante. Once inside P. J,’s (located in an un-distinguised strip shopping center near Mockingbird
and Central), you’ll find yourself in an intimate, tidy, dimly lit brick dining room complete with piped-in Italian
accordion music and faux vineyard lattice work on the ceilings. We started with an antipasto plate that we
could have gone without; for $3. 50. it was little more than a deluxe salad with an artichoke heart and a deviled
egg. And salads accompany selected entrées, anyway – they’re liberally sprinkled with parmesan and served with
small, hot loaves of delightfully crispy-on-the-outside. chewy-on-the-mside bread. The chicken Parmigian was a bit
disappointing: Though portions were more than ample, the breading was too spicy and heavy for our tastes. But the
pasta Giovanni drew raves and is perfect for those having trouble deciding what to eat It’s a heaping platter of
ravioli, manicotti, spaghetti, meatballs, sausage and the cheesiest. tastiest lasagna we’ve had in a while. The
tomato sauce that topped everything was truly exemplary – thick, garlicky and perfectly spiced. If you can eat any
more after en trees like these, try either the cappuccino pie or the cheesecake with a cup of P.J.’s coffee (which
was quite good). Service is relaxed but helpful. (5410 E Mockingbird. 824-1490. Daily 5:30- 10:30 pm or, on
week-ends, as late as necessary. V, AE. $$)
Villa Bugatti. The hustle and bustle and the occasionally poor service at the original Bugatti restaurant is.
happily, not characteristic of the new Bugatti near the Quadrangle. At the old Bugatti. the tortellini was
unbeatable, and – hallelujah’ – it is similarly creamy and rich at Villa Bugatti. A special lobster and veal
combination we tried highlighted each flavor unusually well, the lobster was covered with a light tomato sauce. The
breast of chicken in white wine, with a mixture of garlic, wine and mushrooms, was just spicy enough to be
interesting. We did find a few disappointments, but, all in all, in the areas where the first Bugatti falls short –
in atmosphere and in service – the new Bugatti, in a quiet, tree-shaded two-story house, shines. (2710 Boll.
824-2470 Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30- 11, Sun 5:30-10:30. All credit cards.
Reservations. $$$)
MEXICAN
Café Cancun. We’ve always said “Viva!’ to civilized Mexican restaurants, but Cafe Cancun is so enjoyable it
makes you wonder it the chef really knows his tortillas. Can you imagine Joe T. escorting you to the oak-and-fern
bar, plying you with margantas and letting you order black bean nachos while you wait? All this, mind you.
accompanied by lively strains of ’Quando Caliente El Sol” But despite our predilection tor luxury, we’ve also
maintained since day uno that this is the best Mexico City-style food in town The tacos al carbon are consistently
the best we’ve had anywhere. The nachos, which combine black beans with jalapenos. guaca-mole, sour cream and
Chihuahua cheese, are out of this world Those hopelessly addicted to Tex-Mex can indulge in several decent
combination plates, but the chiles rellenos, the crisp sauteed red snapper and anything served with mole sauce are
the dishes that keep people who like the real thing coming back for more.
(Park Lane at Gentral Expwy in Caruth Plaza, 369-3712; 4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011; 650 N Pearl in Plaza of the
Americas, 969-0244. Mon-Thur 11-11; Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight at Caruth Plaza and Lomo Alto; Mon-Fri 11 am-7 pm at
Plaza of the Americas- MC, V, AE. $$)
Café Rincon This breezy Mexican restaurant is several cuts above what we’ve grown to expect from
establishments on Harry Hines. The colorful posters and music (which varies from New Wave and jazz to the bandito
marching band) create a mood just right for a couple of margaritas and a basket or two of chips. The menu includes
all the Tex-Mex you could want, as well as some fancier fish and steak offerings. The Cama-rones Bohemia
(beer-batter shrimp) that we sampled were large and tasty (owner John Rincón says that if you’re on a diet, his
father-the chef-can fry them in Miller Lite). Cafe Rinc6n’s tortilla soup is an edible grab bag of goodies. (2818
Harry Hines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE $$)
D REVISITS
Joe T. Garcia’s. The North Dallas branch of the famous Fort Worth Mexican food institution is capable of
turning out dishes that match the quality of the original. The tacos are custom-fried with the meat inside them, not
crammed into pre-formed shells. The chilesrellenos with their savory stuffing are probably the bestin Dallas. Even
the retried beans are outstanding: stiffin texture and bold in flavor. But so much can go wrongat Joe T.’s Dallas
location that you may not want to stayaround to taste the food. On one recent visit, the nachoshad such
strong-smelling cheese that we were revolted,and our complaints went unheeded. On the next visit,the tostadas reeked
of rancid oil. There are other telltalesigns of the troubles that go along with a family-runrestaurant trying to
turn itself into a chain, like the menusthat claim not-to be menus (because the original placenever had one). We
hope Joe T. will pull his act togetherbecause the food can be quite good. In the meantime,be careful, (4440 Belt
Line 458-7373. Mon-Sat 11-11,Sun 4-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Genaro’s Tropical. Welcome to a triple-treat tropical feast for the eye, the ear and, of course, the palate.
En-ioy rare pre-Castro Cuban and Brazilian music by the likes of Carmen Miranda and Yuma Sumac, but don’t let the
aesthetic thrill of Genaro’s overshadow the surprising menu, which proves that Dallas has only one showcase for
genuine tropical cuisine. Of the many fine seafood creations, pez espada (swordfish kebab) deserves special mention.
The charcoal-broiled cuts of fish are wrapped in spinach leaves, and the meat’s fine piquancy contrasts nicely with
sautéed spinach and carrots Also droolworthy are the torta del mar (an open-faced sandwich of crab meat and red
snapper) and the enchiladas Genaro, filled with crab and snapper and covered with sour cream and tomatilla sauce.
And you can count on the standard Mexican dishes, which arrive with generous helpings of guacamole, black beans and
tomatoes. (5875 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun 11 am-10:30 pm. All credit
cards. $$)
Herrera. Is any Mexican food really worth a long wait in the Texas sun for a crowded table in a rickety
lean-to when you even have to bring your own beer? Well, there are other places in the neighborhood that can match
Herrera’s enchiladas and tacos and beans, good as they are. But the thick, pancake-shaped flour tortillas you can
see being cranked out by hand once you get inside the door are unique, as are the stew-meat bur-ritos made from
them. And then there’s the feeling of satisfaction at being at the classic Dallas hole in the wall. The new
Denton Drive location still looks like the striptease joint it used to be. The food is fine – but it just doesn’t
seem like Herrera. (5427 Denton Drive, 630-2599. Daily 11 am- 10 pm. All credit cards. 3902 Maple, 526-9427. Mon.
Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Tue. No credit cards. $)
D REVISITS
Moctezuma’s. Try something other than the usual Tex-Mex dishes when visiting this attractive dinner stop. The
chicken and fish “especiales” offer a nice getaway from the usual Tex-Mex We especially enjoyed the Pechuga a la
Parrilla, a boned and very tender breast of chicken grilled in white wine and butter sauce, and the Enchiladas de
Polio, sour-cream/chicken enchiladas served with rice and beans. The service here is very attentive, and the
margantas are worth an honorable mention. (3202 McKmney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat full menu
until 11:30 pm: appetizers until 12:30 am Reservations for parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$)
Mario & Alberto. The giant paper flowers everywhere and walls laden with candles make this northern outpost
of Chiquita a perfect place for a fiesta – whether it’s a romantic night out or a kid’s birthday party. The prices
are reasonable, the specialties are wonderful and new dishes are introduced regularly enough to keep aficionados
coming back to try something different. Of the older specialties, our favorites have always been thesteaks spiked
with garlic and peppers and the simplechar-broiled chicken breasts. Of the recent additions,we enjoyed the carnitas
of pork in an achiote sauce(made with a bright orange Mexican spice) and thepolio en adobo (breast of chicken cut
into bite-sizedchunks and doused in red chili sauce). We have neverhad good luck with the fish or shrimp offerings,
and theTex-Mex plates are lures for greenhorn gringos whodon’t know any better. The only trouble with Mario &Alberto
is that everybody in North Dallas seems to knowabout it, so get there early if you don’t want to wait.
(425Preston Valley Shopping Center. LBJ Frwy at Preston.980 7296. Mon-Thur 11 30 am. 11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30am-1
pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membershipcharge. MC. V. AE $$)
FAR EAST
China Inn. You can’t always judge a Chinese restaurant by its pu pu platter. Our assortment of appetizers was
definitely a mixed bag, with the fried won ton dry and disappointing and the barbecued spare ribs very spare indeed.
The puffed shrimp, however, were large and toothsome. The quality of the entrées, were happy to say, was much more
consistent than on our last visit. The sauce on the sweet and sour pork no longer leans toward cloying sweetness,
and the egg rolls contain far more ingredients. But some things don’t need to change: We’ve never had a chicken dish
here that was not ambrosial. Try almond chicken or kung bo gai ding (tender chicken strips stir-fried with Chinese
greens and topped with roasted peanuts in a fragrant, hot pepper sauce). Food this good shows that there’s plenty of
life yet in old fashioned Cantonese-style cooking. (6521 E Northwest Hwy 369-7733. Sun-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11
am-3 am All major credit cards.$)
Hunan Imperial. So many good neighborhood Chinese restaurants have opened in Dallas during the last few years
that it takes something special to lure us far from home. Hunan Imperial is a notch above most of the better
neighborhood places. The chef knows how to make each dish distinct: slippery, tender, tiny shrimp and nicely chewy
pork in the shrimp and pork combination, a fillip of vinegar in the beef scallions He has to have his arm twisted,
though, if you are serious about having your spicy dishes really hot. Hunan Imperial may not be in the top rank of
Dallas Chinese restaurants, but we’ll continue to go out of our way to get here if the best dishes, like the
sautéed string beans with pork and crunchy rock salt, continue to be outstanding. (Walnut Hill at N Central
Expwy in the Corner Shopping Center, Suite 742. 363-3858. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-2 am,
Sun 11:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Fuji-Ya. This little Japanese inn is tucked into a row offast-food places just north of LBJ Freeway. The
atmosphere may not be much better than in the adjacentArby’s, but the food certainly is. There are the
standardJapanese items like shrimp tempura and teriyakichicken, available separately or in various combinations and
cooked reliably. You can also find moreunusual specialties like tonkatsu, the pork cutlet that isJapan’s
answer to chicken-fried steak. And on Thursday and Friday evenings, Fuji-Ya serves excellentsushi: Fresh fish sliced
and served up so handsomelyon little pillows of flavored rice that you won’t evennotice that it’s raw. The price of
the sushi is a bit steepat $12, but the rest of the menu is quite reasonable.(13050 Coit. 690-8396. Mon-Sat 11
am-10 pm, Sun5-10 pm. Closed Monday. MC, V, AE. $$)
Korea House. Also identified as Koryo Jung on its sign and menus, this attractive little restaurant is often
overlooked by its Richardson and North Dallas neighbors. Too bad, because the appetizing Seoul food offers something
for everybody. Barbecue fans will likethe bulgoki (marinated and grilled beef) and kalbi gui(chewy ribs), and
jalapeno buffs will go for the more incendiary kim chee (fiery pickled cabbage). There areplenty of offbeat choices
for the adventurous. The lasttime we visited, a Korean patron at the next table wasfeasting on a dish of mixed
vegetables topped with afried egg. The waitresses in their bright silk costumesadd a welcome exotic touch to the
otherwise standardmodern surroundings. They do their best to make non-Koreans feel at home, but the service can be
slow. (610Promenade Center, Coit at Belt Line, Richardson.231-1379. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm. MC, V,AE.
$$)
Peking Szechuan. Don’t let the modest looks of this place fool you (the view outside is of the Circle Bowl
and Circle Inn sign) because the Oriental house specialties here are a pure delight. We especially enjoyed the Three
Delicacy Flavor, which included tender and tasty chunks of shrimp, chicken and beef in Peking Sauce, surrounded by
an equally tasty assortment of vegetables. Also noteworthy is the Seafood Delight, a succulent assortment of jumbo
shrimp, king crab and scallops sautéed with Chinese vegetables on a sizzling platter. We were unusually impressed
with the fried rice and crispy snow peas. The service is gracious but slow-paced. (2560 W Northwest Hwy.
353-0129. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri-Sun 11:30-11:30. AE, MC, V. $$)
Plum Blossom. The cool, serene, teal-blue surroundings here calmed our spirits, allowing us to meditate on
the large statue of Buddha, the beautiful Chinese porcelains and some of the best Chinese food in Dallas. Sea
scallops with straw mushrooms in a potato nest are offered as an appetizer on one of the special dinners, but you
can get them a la carte if you ask. The simple, delicious ginger duck and the tender shrimp are accompanied by
impeccably crisp snow peas. You can even find some unusual desserts-which are more rare in Chinese restaurants than
Orient pearls. The fried custard with mango sauce was delightful, the fried ice cream with almonds and tangerine
sauce less so. But on the whole, our meal at the Anatole’s Plum Blossom was a little bit of nirvana. (Loews
Anatole, 2201 Stem-mons. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit
cards. $$$)
Rambutan’s. The new Marriott on the Parkway has defied custom by making its fancy restaurant Chinese-and
laying on the atmosphere so thick it could asphyxiate you. Rambutan’s serves Chinese food for people who don’t like
Chinese food. The a la carte menu is perfunctory; everyone is expected to order one of the prescribed dinners for
two or more. Each dinnerhas a theme (elementary Cantonese, spicy Northern,seafood and so on), and each comes with an
appetizer,a soup, three main courses and a dessert. There is noadventure here for old Chinese-food fans, though
thereis a certain talent in the kitchen – the standard dishesare stirred up with steady hands. (Marriott
Quorum,14901 Dallas Pkwy. 661-2800. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Sun- Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. All
creditcards. $$$)
Sakura. In many ways, this Japanese restaurant is typical of all Japanese restaurants: Waitresses wear
traditional costumes, dinner is prepared at the table, and the decor is soothingly Oriental. Our waitress made
suggestions about our orders and cooked our dinner before our eyes, never expecting us to drop all conversation and
“ooh” and “ah” until she finished. We enjoyed a quiet, well-prepared meal selected from a vast menu including
everything from shredded beef to sea urchin. Standards such as sushi and tempura are also very good. (7402
Greenville. 361-9282. Mon-Thur & Sun 5:30-11 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards.
$$)
Taiwan. The new Taiwan manages to combine all the elegance of Oriental tradition with the cordial service and
deft preparation of the Taiwan on Greenville, which we fell for years ago. We were delighted with the plump, lightly
fried shrimp rolls and the warm, meat-stuffed turnovers (kuo-teh) that we ordered as appetizers and with the large,
hot tureens of egg flower soup and hot and sour soup. Then we chose the Sizzling Iron Plate, which gave us a taste
of the deliciously spiced beef that we’d smelled since we entered the restaurant. (4980 Belt Line. 387-2333. Mon-
Thur 11-11,Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun 10 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
SEAFOOD
Banno Brothers. While you’re sitting at Banno’s listening to the raucous bleat of Dixieland jazz or watching
an oyster shucker do his work, you can almost believe you’re in New Orleans (and you could practically drive there
in the time it takes to get service at Banno’s on a busy Saturday night). But the wait is worth it, especially when
endured with oysters on the half shell and the mollusk’s natural accompaniment: ice-cold beer. The broiled red
snapper is buttery and nicely textured, and the crowded seafood salad makes a good meal for light eaters. The fried
snapper, however, could just as well have been fried anything. The little touches are nicely done, with crunchy hush
puppies (which, alas, do not come gratis) and an unusual tartar sauce with chopped onions. On the whole, Banno’s
gives good weight – lor the wait. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm.
Sunday, gone fishin. MC. V. $$)
Boston Sea Party. Before you pop in on this party, be sure that you’re a confirmed seafood lover and that
you’re mighty hungry. You’ll want to get your money’s worth ($22.95, prix fixe for dinner), and you’ll want
to make sure you sample everything. The all-you-can-eat presentation here is a lot like Sunday brunch at some of the
larger hotels around town, and it is as delectable as it is vast. We selected dinner from three different “piers”
The first was a sampler of appetizers – fresh oysters, smoked fish, caviar, salads and chowder. The second was an
assortment of steamed oysters, meaty crab legs and shrimp. Then came the main course. Our particular sea party found
the whole Maine lobster to be excellent, though a little less tender than the Australian lobster tail, and the
char-broiled salmon was plump and flaky. The dessert pier held an appealing selection of small servings of fresh
fruits, cheeses, cheesecake, mousse and carrot cake. (13444 Preston. 239-7061. Mon- Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat
5-11 pm. Sun 4:30-9 pm All credit cards. $$$)
Jozef’s. “Rough wood elegance” has become a seafood restaurant cliche, but we can think of no better way to
describe this comfortable, unpretentious yet very fine restaurant. Prices are reasonable, the service was bright,
and we enjoyed every bite from the bread to the cheesecake. The clean, spicy Creole shark soup is worth trying, and
Jozef’s crab meat Remick and mushrooms stuffed with crab began our meal perfectly. Our lobster was moist, not
overcooked, and was served with an unusually large steak. The chefs special shrimp were beautifully served with
mushrooms, shallots and a light, creamy sauce. Our only complaint was with the vegetables: Although they appeared to
be fresh, they arrived cold. (2719 McKinney, 826-5560; 2460 Walnut Hill Lane, 351-5365. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30;
dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Seascape Inn. ’If it were done when Its done, then ’twere well it were done quickty said Macbeth, proving
that he would not have enioyed the Seascape Inn Bring someone who likes to talk, because the wait (up to 30 minutes
tor lunch, longer at dinner) is the chief drawback to this mostly superior restaurant. However, once you’re ushered
into the pleasant dining room, which is awash in cheerful coral and green tones, you’ll have earned the baked
oysters Seascape. Served on a fondue of fresh onions and eggplant, glazed with white wine and thick mozzarella
cheese, the appetizer sets high standards for the meal that follows. The thick, peppery clam chowder is a good
choice over the rather effete gumbo, tasty enough but lacking the funky fire one associates with the real item. As
for the main course, the Seascape does best with more exotic entrees such as Iinguine pescadore, served perfectly
al dente with oysters, clams, mussels and whitefish in a complex wine sauce Sadly, our fried seafood platter
was salvaged only by the juicy scallops, the shrimp and oysters had been breaded long ago-or were they frozen?
Unsavory options both, especially when so much else is done so well. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri
11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10 30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Ratcliffe’s. If you were a coastal transplant desperate for a true taste of the sea. you’d pay $8.95 for a
bucket of steamers, right? Well, Ratclitfe’s is the place to do it in style. Touted as a “San Francisco-style
seafood house,” Ratcliffe’s is romantic without the formula hokeyness so many fish restaurants rely upon. An open
kitchen and a glass case full of appetizing ocean critters greet you when you walk in, and unless you have the
misfortune to be seated in the rather bland upstairs dining room, you can enjoy your meal among beautiful antiques
and pretty pastels. The seafood is reliably fresh; sauces are creative and served nouvelle-style (under, not on top
of). The fried offerings come piping hot, with a perfectly textured breading and |ust the right amount of grease.
Two specials not on the menu but “prepared often’ were superb: a bouillabaisse- a hearty bowlful of crustaceans
afloat in a delicate broth-and a but-terflied. Dungeness crab-stuffed grouper. “Sally’s Daily Sin,” one of several
house ice creams, provides a simple, soothing conclusion to a well-prepared, albeit pricey, meal. (1901 McKinney.
748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Turtle Cove. This airy rotunda of a restaurant looks pretty snazzy with salmon and teal fabrics against
rustic dark woods. Some nights it seems as if all of Dallas has turned out to eat broiled seafood and drink
interesting California wines. But after a few years of living with shrimp cooked over a mesquite wood fire, we’re
beginning to think that if God had meant man to eat this way he would have put shrimp in West Texas (or mesquite in
the Gulf). With too strong a dose of the smoke, shrimp can taste downright medicinal and can get all chewylike. too.
Swordfish does a little better; but at $17.50 a throw, the price of a dinner can begin to climb astronomically. With
other dishes, such as yellow squash ratatouille and apple cobbler, the kitchen approxlmates ambitious home cooking.
At these prices, one might expect something fancier. (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034.
Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$)
D REVISITS
Charley’s Seafood Grill. We have a soft spot in our hearts for Charley’s, with its high ceilings and sunny
windows looking out on a rural Addison that has mostly disappeared. The food is not always inspired-the okra gumbo
is as murky as the mighty Mississippi, and the boiled shrimp are bland – but the seafood is fresh, and the help is
obliging. The char-broiled seafood is always dependable: Our red snapper was as juicy as a well-grilled hunk of
beef. And the side dishes are better than they often are at seafood places, with tasty homemade fries to go with the
fish and good homemade cheesecakes to follow. Somehow it’s a shock to come out the door and see Prestonwood mall
across the road after a meal here; we always expect a salt breeze and sailboats. (5438 Belt Line. 934-8501.
Sun-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$)
SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES
Broussard’s. If you’ve been ragin’ for Cajun, seek no more. Your introduction to one of the South’s
finecuisines awaits you here. But be prepared: Cajun cooking is spicy, redolent fare that can take some gettingused
to. If you’re bold and impatient, plunge right in withthe Sample Tray, which includes the famous gumbo,a zesty
chicken sauce piquante, crab etoufee, jam-balaya (just like the song), red beans and rice. Tastebuds awakened, move
on to a seafood specialty suchas boiled and barbecued shrimp or baked, crab-stuffedred snapper. Add a mug of cold
beer, and let le bontemps roulez. (63 Richardson Heights Center, Belt Lineat Central Expwy. 231 -9850. Mon- Thur
11 am-2 pm &5-10 pm, Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5-11 pm, Sat 5-11 pm, Sun11:30 am-9 pm. MC. V, AE. $$)
Bubba’s. You want meaty, not-too-greasy chicken with a meaningful crust. You want it quick, you don’t want to
pay an arm and a thigh for it, and you don’t want dinner in a box. So you go to Bubba’s, and you’re glad. Chicken is
the house specialty, and the chicken-fried steak is a large, authentic member of the genre. The dinners, all for
under $5, come with a choice of two vegetables (we tried coleslaw, green beans and mashed potatoes; all were fresh
and distinctive). The meals are served with two humongous rolls, and there’s honey on the table to dip em in. The
room is bright and airy with splashes of gleaming chrome and a wonderful old wartime poster. The plastic dinnerware
and paper plates can be unwieldy, but that’s the only flaw at Bubbas. 6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Daily 6:30 am-10
pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Highland Park Cafeteria. Where would you take E. T. to show him real American cooking? To HPC, of course.
He’d recognize the long lines (just like at the movies) even if he didn’t recognize the food. You could introduce
him to chopped spinach salad with horse-radish, definitive fried chicken or lean brisket, and every vegetable from
turnips ’n’ greens to bright, crisp broccoli with hollandaise. The biscuits and corn bread, billowy meringue pies
and high layer cakes might make him so heavy he couldn’t get back into his spaceship. Once he’d learned the ropes,
he’d tell everybody that the original location on Cole Street still has the best food. But although the newer
branches are less consistent, they can be excellent, and the lines are a lot shorter. (4611 Cole. 526-3801; 600
Sakowitz Village on the Parkway. 934-8025. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. closed Sun at Cole location; Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm &
5-8 pm. Sat 11 am-8 pm. Sun 11 am-2:30 pm at Sakowitz Village location. No liquor. No credit cards. $)
Taste & Take. Mrs. Hugh Davis, owner of this cozy little diner and takeout operation on Greenville Avenue,
wouldn’t admit it herself, but we suspect that her business philosophy is that people are tired of red beans and
chicken-fried steak. Her homemade ham and chicken salads, four kinds of homemade breads and delicious desserts (try
the apricot or raspberry squares) offer a lighter, healthier alternative to weighty midday meals. Menus change each
week and vary from Cornish game hen to chicken and dumplings. Hill Country preserves, chowchow. homemade dressings,
mustards and breads are available, and T & T offers gourmet takeout food, catering and free delivery for orders of
$25 or more. (4509 Greenville. 691-5161. Mon-Fri 11 am-6 pm, Sat 11 am-3 pm AE; personal checks accepted
$$)
D DISCOVERS
Don’s Seafood & Steakhouse. We love Louisiana and its cooking, and were always hoping by some miracle to find
a reasonable facsimile of the latter in Texas. The original Don’s is one of the most famous restaurants in Cajun
country. From its home in Lafayette it has been propagating itself all over Louisiana, then into southeastern Texas.
Don’s most distant outpost has been in Dallas for nearly a year, and like all the other branches, it has its ups and
downs. The thin Cajun gumbo, smoky with roux, is the real thing; so is the crispy, thin-fried catfish. The
boiled shrimp and the etoufee, though, miss the mark: The shelled shrimp we tasted were tough and dry. the
sauce in the etoufee gummy and tasteless. Some non-Cajun dishes, however, keep our hopes up. The shrimp and
oysters en brochette (heavily wrapped in bacon) and the simple, fresh broiled trout – not to mention the
bread pudding – are far better than at most of the other Don’s we’ve visited. Maybe someday all the food here will
be as good as the best already is, and we can settle back and persuade ourselves that we’re having a merry old time
on the banks of the Bayou Teche. (2361 W. Northwest Hwy. 350-3667. Sun- Thur 11 am- 10 pm; Fri & Sat 11-11. All
credit cards $$)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Beefeater. This restaurant serves up thick, juicy beef, pork and lamb cuts of good quality in an Old English
pub atmosphere. The extras are limited and simple, with choices including a standard dinner salad, hearty black
beans and tangy coleslaw. (3010 N Henderson at Central Expwy. 826-2553. Mon-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat
6-11 30 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$$)
The Bronx. It upset us a few weeks back to drive by The Bronx and see the redecorators at work. We were
anxious to be reassured that, new cream paint and all, it was the same old Bronx. The entryway is stucco now. and a
few new abstract paintings grace the walls, but the important things haven’t changed. The spiced iced tea is still
refreshing, the conversation still flows easily and the omelettes (we delighted in the huge, fluffy mushroom,
spinach and bacon variety) remain dependably good. The service, which in the past was an-noyingly slow, was much
more efficient. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. dinner: Mon-Thur 5 30 pm-12:30 am. Fri
& Sat 5:30 pm-1:30 am: Sunday brunch: 11-3. MC. V. AE. $$)
Crackers. Greek dishes prevail at this casual, comfortable restaurant Enjoy moussaka, spanokopita,
Greek-style baked chicken or souflaki while sitting outside on the balcony among the trees or in the pleasant but
nondescript dining rooms. For a taste of something on the lighter side, quiche and sandwiches are available Almost
all entrees are preceded by a cup of soup and a crunchy, cheesy tidbit followed by a fresh green salad. (2621
McKmney 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Sat 11 -3. Sun 11 -5; dinner: Sun- Thur 5- 70.30. Fri & Sat 5-midnight MC.
V. AE $)
Dalt’s. Dalt’s tries to reincarnate an old-fashioned soda fountain, but the Sweet Shoppes of hallowed memory
were never this bustling nor this funky. Along with the ice cream floats, the bar cranks out plenty of more po-tent
libations night and day. Prestonwood shoppers, deal-making table-hoppers and cruising teeny-boppers keep the place
jammed. The catalog-sized menus make a good meal a matter of good luck – nobody could cook so many things equally
well. But the chicken-fried steaks and salads are huge, and the burgers are meaty. And the fried ice cream sundaes,
gooey with hot fudge or caramel and crunchy with nuts, make the concept of a soda parlor seem pretty nifty after
all. (5100 Belt Line in Sakowitz Village, Suite 410. 385-8606. Daily 11 am-2 am. All credit cards. $)
Hoffbrau. We regret heaping more praise upon this much-adored Dallas institution only because the last time
we visited – on a Monday night – we waited 30 minutes for a table. But it was no wonder, for we stood in Hoffbrau.
that enchanted place where even SMU kids dress like UT kids. The steaks are large, the potatoes are fattening, the
beer is cold and the music is loud. Hoffbrau may have made “Esquire’s” best-eats list, but neither the food nor the
service seems to have suffered, (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11. Sat noon-11. Sun 4-10 pm. All credit
cards. $$)
Kobe Steaks. Although we Texans are proud of our beef, Japan – if Kobe Steaks is any indication – has us beat
in the taste and tenderness departments. Kobesteaks are the result of a specialized cattle-raising process that
includes a daily diet of beer and, yes, massage.The hibachi seafood dinner we tasted drew raves, especially
for the scallops, which were large and succulent. The Kobe “special dinner” was appropriatelynamed; the beef and
chicken (cooked in butter, soysauce and sesame seeds) proved exquisitely tasty. Butthe lobster could have been left
off this dish; it wastough and was overpowered by the soy flavor. Mealsare prepared on a grill built into your
table, and chefsperform a variety of stunning hand-acrobatics usingknives and condiment shakers. (5000 Belt Line
in theQuorum, Suite600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri& Sat 5 pm-midmght. All credit cards. $$)
Lou & Larry’s. Lou & Larry’s has a Greenville Avenue-type name and an Old Town address, but it’s a quieter,
more diverse establishment than most of its neighbors. The restaurant has quite an imaginative menu; we especially
enjoyed the selection of stir-fry salads. The sunny California stir-fry, a hot combination of lightly “wokked”
fruits, vegetables, ham, turkey tenderloin and chicken, was dressed in poppy-seed and honey dressing. But many other
selections were disappointing. Lou and Larry’s tries hard to be an original American restaurant, but the kitchen
will have to grow more consistent in order for the place to succeed. (5500 Green-ville. 361-4348. Mon-Thur
11:30 am-midnight, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-1 am. Sun 11 am-midnight; Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards. $$)
D DISCOVERS
Purdy’s Hamburger Market and Bakery. Just onestep inside the door of this Addison eatery, you’ll find acooler
full of almost any thirst-quencher you could want,from longneck beers to those great old-fashionedCokes and Dr
Peppers in little bottles. With its black-and-white tile walls, high ceiling and nostalgic rock ’n’roll tunes, this
place will take you back to the Fifties. AndPurdy’s huge, fresh burgers, served on a toastedhomemade bun and dressed
as you like ’em at the produce bar, will remind you of the burgers you loved backthen. The french fries (served in
generous portions) arecrisp and perfectly seasoned. If you’re still hungry, pickup a chocolate chip cookie at the
bakery on your wayout. (4812 Belt Line in the Quorum. 960-2494. Mon-Fri11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun 11
am-10 pm.MC, V. $)
Ruth’s Chris Steak House. This is a place for serious beef eaters. No frills, no gimmicks, no daily
specialsjust corn-fed, never-frozen, aged prime beef, delivered fresh from the Midwest and cut on the premises. And
although the whole concept seems a natural for Texas, the restaurant is actually part of a franchise that started in
New Orleans. Seven different cuts of beef are offered at the Dallas restaurant, with a la carte side dishes
including broccoli, cauliflower, spinach or potatoes au gratin The decor is all-business, with the main attraction
being a large board that delivers stock quotes by day and sports updates by night. Fittingly, the prices go right
along with big-business expense accounts. (6940 Greenville. 691 -6940. Mon-Fri 11.30-11:30. Sat & Sun 5-11:30 pm
All credit cards. $$$)
D REVISITS
Frank Tolbert’s Texas Chill Parlor. Frank X Tolbert’s chili shrine needs reviews like Dallas needs more
Yankees, but it never hurts to be reminded that, as always, Tolbert’s serves the finest ’native Texas foods” in the
city. The Texas red chili is a civic treasure, the “mystical ingredients’ of which must have been supplied by the
cowboy-hatted gods themselves. Ditto for the nacho de polio, chicken nachos served on fried flour tortillas,
these nachos can compete with any south of the Red River. We’ve sampled most of the menu and have nothing but
contented sighs for the Boquillas bur-rito. a divine mix of Texas red. lettuce and onions wrapped in large flour
tortillas and soaked in chili conqueso And for even bigger appetites, there’s the “pot cluck’ burrito, a gargantuan
affair stuffed with spicy chicken and layered with thick, melted iack cheese. If you’re in search of something
cooler and lighter, try the teacher’s salad, a lesson in how many fresh, crunchy ingredients can be crammed into one
large bowl All this and the world’s largest collection of promotional and political buttons to boot? Thank God for
Tolberfs. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon- Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-11 pm MC, V, AE. $)
Wonderful World of Cooking. This rather plain dining room is a mecca for those who crave light, healthy
lunches. We tried some chicken broccoli cr?pes in a light wine sauce and the ever-popular green enchiladas (which
could have stood a bit more chicken and less sour cream and cheese). The chicken and broccoli dieter’s delight was
too watery, but the Wonderful World’s salad plate (with spinach, chicken with walnuts and fresh fruit salads) was
delightful, especially with the addition of the lemon-nut and cream cheese finger sandwiches. Use one of the
sensible, light entrees as an excuse to try dessert: The fudge pecan pie and the Italian cream pie, both served hot,
are out of this world. (5007 W Lovers Lane. 358-3345; 134 10-G Preston, 386-8620; 6023 Sherry Lane, 7500382; 621
Preston Royal Village, 739-4803; 208 Mandalay Canal, Irving, 556-2525; 602 Plymouth Park Shopping Center, 253-0666,
1305 Avenue K. Piano. 423-8815. Mon-Fn9:30 am-6 pm. Sat 9 30 am-5 pm Closed Sun. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3.
Catering and takeout available. No creditcards.)
FORT WORTH RESTAURANT8
Angelo’s. For a real slice of Texas barbecue, the place to go-as far as most residents of Fort Worth are
concerned – is still Angelo’s. As with most respectable barbecue joints, the drawing card here is the food and
drink, not the atmosphere or service (both of which are carefully disguised at Angelo’s). If you don’t watch your
step, you may bump into a Grizzly bear modeling an Angelo’s T-shirt or have a cold beer spilled down your back by a
diner who tripped while walking down the slanting concrete floor into the dining area. You order cafeteria-style
from a menu above the counter. A paper plate is heaped with a choice of ribs (served after 5 pm only) or barbecued
beef, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. A large, icy beer is just the thing to top it all off.
(2533 White Settlement Road (817) 332 0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks
accepted. $)
The Balcony. Here you’ll find continental cuisine with specialties such as beef dishes, fried shrimp and veal
cordon bleu. This elegant restaurant overlooks bustling Camp Bowie Boulevard and is a good place for relaxed dining
and conversation. (6700 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat
6-10:30. Reservations. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)
Calhoun Street Oyster Bar. Within easy walking distance from the Tarrant County Convention Center and
Theatre, this New Orleans-style restaurant is an ideal spot to grab a bite to eat before a show. As the name
implies, oysters are the featured fare, but a blackboard menu (offering fresh fish such as New England scrod and
Gulf pompano) changes daily. The warehouselike interior of concrete and painted brick is reminiscent of Dallas’ S&D
Oyster Company. Service is prompt and attentive here, a definite plus if you’re in a hurry to catch an early show.
(210 Eighth Street at Calhoun. (817) 332-5932. Mon- Thur 11 am- 10 pm. Fri &Sat 11-11. Sun 5-11 pm. MC. V. AE.
$$)
Cattlemen’s Steak House. The secret of getting into this legendary steakhouse on weekends is to arrive there
before the crowds start descending. This means 5:30 or 6 pm. That may be a bit too early for some people, but
otherwise the wait sometimes exceeds an hour. The steaks are, indeed, worth waiting for: huge, tender and cooked as
ordered. This is heartland food. Don’t look for any fancy names or mushrooms and shallots swimming in béarnaise
sauce; just sit back and enjoy classic meat and potatoes. Then, when you’re finished and the evening’s still young,
sashay on over to one of the country/Western joints down the street in the stock-yards and work off your dinner
two-steppin’. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30 pm. Sal 4:30-10:30 pm All credit cards. $$)
Hamp’s Hoffbrau. For years, when you lusted after beef in Cowtown. you took your money and your appetite to
Cattlemen’s. Hamp’s isn’t in the same league and doesn’t aspire to be; but this small, comfortable steak shop isn’t
overpriced or tourist-infested, either. So far, it’s a good, less exhausting alternative to an old favorite. The
menu is short and includes several cuts of juicy steaks, chicken breast, shish kebab and grilled onions. (215
University. (817) 334-0003. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 am. Sat noon-2 am. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
D REVISITS
Hedary’s Lebanese Restaurant. Family owned Hedary’s makes a great neighborhood restaurant; it’s the type of
place that’s perfect for quick meals out or a bite to eat before a show. Prices are reasonable, the service is quick
and efficient, and the food – well, what can we way about maza, lahm mishwi or falafil, except that they are as
fascinating as they sound. For starters, try the maza, a type of salad smorgasbord. (The menu explains that the
Lebanese eat small servings of several salads.) For a main course, you can’t go wrong with the lahm mishwi. large
rib-eye steak chunks skewered with tomatoes and onions and wrapped in the steaming folds of Lebanese yeast bread.
For something with more bite, try the falafil, deep-fried balls of spiced gar-banzo beans ground with onion,
coriander and garlic. (3308 Fairfield in Ridglea Center. (817)731 6961. Tue-Thur5-10pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. Sun
5-10 pm. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcia’s. In combing the Southwest in search of the perfect margarita. our elixir of tequila was found
next to a plate of enchiladas, beans and rice in this celebrated family-style restaurant in Fort Worth. This
margarita packs a wallop. No mixes, no diluted mixtures of sweet and sour; we’re talkin’ tequila, lime juice and
Triple Sec. Period. The food – the standard dinner plus a few choices like steak a la Mexicana-was, as always,
great. But our memories (what we can remember) lie with the liquid menu. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356
Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. No credit cards. $$)
Kincaid’s. Whoever said that a hamburger is a hamburger is a hamburger? It just ain’t so. One visit to
Kin-caid’s and you’ll consider yourself a connoisseur of ground beef. In this old-fashioned grocery store,
hamburgers are made the old-fashioned way; and that means lots of onions, pickles, cheese and grease. You’ll need
both hands to eat one of Kincaid’s burgers: one to hold the burger, the other to keep the fixin’s from spilling out
all over the wooden luncheonette counters that cover the shelves of groceries. There are other selections from the
grill, but we stick to the basic hamburger and have never been disappointed. (4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)
732-2881. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:15 pm Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
Le Cafe Bowie. It’s not often that we have a meal that we rave about for weeks after the occasion, but we did
on our last visit to Le Cafe Bowie. The Veal Bowie (milk-fed veal smothered in a hollandaise sauce with shrimp and
artichokes) was so tender that we could slice it with our fork. We were likewise impressed with the tenderness of
the succulent Steak Louis XV. The accompanying vegetables were equally well-prepared, and our meal, overall, was one
of the most enjoyable we’ve had in Fort Worth. Owner/head chef Tom Rouse prides himself on the quality of
preparation at Le Cafe Bowie, and we think his pride is entirely justified. (4930 Camp Bowie. (817) 735-1521.
Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm; Sun brunch: noon-2. MC, V. AE; personal checks accepted. $$$)
Mac’s House. Around town, it’s called Macs steak-house or sometimes |ust “the best steak in Fort Worth.” The
restaurant is deceiving. From the outside it looks like a truck stop, and with a name like “Mac’s” that’s what we
expected. But inside we found linen tablecloths, candles on the tables and prompt and efficient waitresses. To stay
happy at Mac’s, stick to the steaks. Although the menu seems quite ambitious, we’ve had better chicken that came out
of a frozen box. To top off your Cowtown chowdown, try one of the delicious coffee drinks. (2400 Parkhill. (817)
921-4682. Sun-Thur 5-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Massey’s. There are legions of Fort Worth residents (native and transplanted) who swear allegiance to this
family-owned chicken-fried steakhouse. There’s nothing fancy here, just pure, down-home cookin’. The chicken-fried
steaks are served on plastic plates, coffee is served in plastic cups and diners are seated on vinyl chairs. But
plastics aside, the food is better than average (and the portions are larger, too). The chicken-fried part is
exactly that: crispy-fried – not cloaked in the soggy batter that we’ve encountered at less worthy establishments.
All chicken-fried steak dinners come with home-cooked vegetables and rolls. All in all, Massey’s makes for a hearty
breakfast, lunch or dinner. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817) 924-8242. Mon-Sun 8 am-10 pm. MC, V. $)
Neiman-Marcus Red River Saloon. Gorgeous blond oak is everywhere here. The light-colored wood adds a clean
airiness to the large room that’s almost antisep-tic, but not quite. Located smack in the heart of the budding
Sundance Square renovation area in the middle of downtown Fort Worth, the saloon is a great place to stop off for a
beer and a platter of nachos during a shopping spree or just after work. The nachos are loaded, and if you look
closely, you’ll be amused to see that the chips are molded in the shape of Texas. The Western-style menu is clever;
try the Texas crêpes,” six-inch flour tortillas filled with Monterey Jack and Cheddar cheeses and onions, topped
with what the saloon calls the “world’s richest chili.” (115 W Second in Sun-danceSquare. (817)870-2502, Mon-Thur
11 am-8 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Neiman-Marcus credit card only. $)
Old Swiss House. From the time you arrive (when the parking valet assures you that he won’t need a name to
remember which car is yours) to the likely appearance of the chef at your table, you’ll be coddled all evening. The
lamb chops and the cherries jubilee are awe-mspiring, and the veal Oscar and King Edward broil (a beef filet) are
quite good. You don’t have to dress up to dine here, but the service and attention shown by the staff will make you
feel as though your dinner is a special occasion. (1541 Merrimac Circle. (817) 877-1531. Mon- Thur 5-10 pm, Fri &
Sat 5-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
River House. This welcome spot considerably lessens the pain in a city aching for reasonably priced yet
digestible seafood. The seafood platter is a delightful sampling of shrimp, oysters, fish and deviled crab. The
stuffed shrimp is on the bland side, but the assorted shore dinners, which include an appetizer, salad, entree, dnnk
and dessert (try the Key lime pie), are worthy catches. (1660 S University. (817)336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:
dinner. Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Reservations tor six or more. All credit cards. $$)
The Original Mexican Food Eats Cafe. Legend has it that this is the first Mexican food restaurant in Fort
Worth (hence its name); it’s certainly one of the most popular ones. On a recent Saturday night, we faced a wait of
more than half an hour for a table, but our time was well-spent. Our waitress was unfailingly pleasant and attentive
and kept a full container of corn tortillas on our table. Specialties include the Roosevelt plate, a tasty combo
that includes a taco. enchilada and chalupa. We found the chicken enchiladas to be among the best we’ve ever
sampled, and the margaritas are huge. (4713 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-6226. Sun-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11
am-10 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards. $)
Soaps. Housed in a restored historical building in the shadows of towering skyscrapers, this new restaurant
in the Sundance Square district may be just what the doctor ordered for the nighttime doldrums of downtown Fort
Worth. Beer lovers will delight in finding the Czechoslovakian Pilsner Urquell and Norwegian Ringes on the extensive
beer menu. The dinner menu sticks mainly to burgers, chicken and steak, but the ap-perizer list is varied, with such
unusual items as nacho nuggets and red beans with corn bread The chicken kiev we sampled was succulent and bursting
with butter, and the chicken-fried steak was large and tender, although the gravy was slightly too thick for our
tastes. (111 East Fourth at Commerce. (817) 332-3335. Mon & Tue 11 am- 10 pm, Wed-Fri 11 am- 10 pm. Closed Sat &
Sun MC, V. AE $$)
Tuscany. Don’t be discouraged by the stuccolike exterior of Tuscany; looks can be deceiving. Once inside,
you’ll find yourself in an elegant Italian restaurant featuring the cuisine of Tuscany, the heartland of Italy,
Owner Sharman Wallace greets her guests at the door and keeps watch over the dining room, making sure that all runs
smoothly. Wallace also assists in the preparation of appetizers at the table (we had sautéed scampi). Although our
pasta dish (tortellini alia panna) was far above average, the real highlight of our meal was zup-pa di pesce. a
bouillabaisse-type dish featuring different kinds of squid, shrimp and mussels in a spicy sauce. Our meal was
perfectly topped off with steaming cups of espresso Service was slow, but we were happy to linger over a meal this
good. (4255 Camp Bowie. (817) 737-2971. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2.30 pm & 530-1030 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm Closed Sun.
All credit cards $$)
The Wine Seller. Don’t come here if you’re in a hurry.This place is for those who enjoy a leisurely
dinner,complete with four courses and at least one bottle ofwine. Wine aficionados may peruse the restaurant’swine
vault to select the proper bottle for dinner On a recent visit, we chose a 1982 Monterey Chardonnay. aperfect
complement to an appetizer board of smokedGouda and Morbier cheeses and pepper p?te. Selected wines are also offered
by the glass, although sampling these can get expensive. Entrees include beef,chicken and seafood dishes. The
chicken Boursin, achicken breast wrapped around Boursin cheese,baked in a wine sauce and topped with capers,
wasoutstanding. The open kitchen lends a casualness tothe place. (6120 Camp Bowie. (817) 7372323. Mon-Thur 11:30
am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. MC.V; personal checks accepted. $$)
