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DINING NEW ARRIVALS

Barbecue, lobster salad, ravioli & pollo
By D Magazine |

Restaurant Silvano. We’re beginning to wonder just how many deluxe restaurants Dallas can support-a new one seems to crop up every week. And this new venture of Silvano Zanette (formerly the singing sommelier at the Pyramid Room), looks as though it will have no trouble surviving. Even during its first weeks, plenty of customers were willing to spend $50 or $60 per person to see how Silvano was doing in his new digs. They discovered that he had discarded his trademark chaps and corny Italian arias for a stylish suit and silk tie and that he had transformed himself into one of the friendliest owner-hosts in Dallas. Restaurant Silvano occupies a ground-floor corner of an old brick building in the West End warehouse district downtown. Unlike some other glittery new restaurants, this place has an understated elegance that blends well with the warm welcome.

The menu may give you a feeling of déjà vu-many of the dishes can be found on several high-priced menus in town. But the kitchen, although it is still finding its sea legs, shows signs of holding its own in the crowded field. Among the appetizers we sampled, the oysters in saffron sauce and the scallops with kiwi were expertly cooked, and the lobster salad had tender, succulent meat; but the lobster bisque was unbelievably salty. Among the entrées, the steak was well-aged and exceptionally flavorful, and the venison was perfectly rosy and not at all gamey. The chefs weak point is his sauces; the Roquefort (the only available treatment for veal) didn’t work, and the sauce on the Dover sole lacked sparkle and richness. Our Grand Marnier soufflé tasted only of egg, but the fresh fig tart is one of the best desserts in the city. (311 Market Street. 747-0322. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards.$$$$)

Jett’s. Jett’s is named after the James Dean character, Jett Rink, in the movie Giant (the famous picture of Dean sitting back with his legs propped up graces the restaurant’s entrance hall). The idea here is to serve traditional Texas food in surroundings to match, and the renovation of the building that formerly housed Oporto’s does manage to re-create the atmosphere of that bygone time. The massive bar was hand-carved from a single Hill Country tree, and the white tablecloths lend a dignified air to the basically rustic setting. The idea is such a good one and the people who run Jett’s are so pleasant that one wants to see the place succeed. At lunchtime, it’s possible to be convinced that it will. Barbecue is one of Jett’s specialties, and the mixed plate offers meaty ribs, lean brisket and tasty sausage.

But in the evening, the price of the barbecue nearly doubles-$11.95 for the combination plate is mighty stiff. Other entrees recall the offerings of the classic border restaurants that cater to Texans (such as the U.S. Bar and the Cadillac Bar); there’s even a combo of two meats similar to the featured dinners at those legendary Mexican border haunts. But Jett’s should stick with the traditional: The quail and the frog legs were neither fresh nor good, and the frying was inexpert for both dishes. The saving grace of the evening menu is the even though the menu barbecued chicken; it’s juicy and delicious. But warns that you may have to wait, we didn’t expect to wait more than an hour! We hope Jett’s gets its evening act together because Dallas could use a place that offers a choice of settings (a patio and game room in addition to the formal dining room) and an authentic Texas atmosphere. (2929 N. Henderson. 827-1627. Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat 5:30-11 (bar open until 2 a.m.). Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$-$$$)

Café Moustache. Cafe Moustache has changed character with its new owners: Now, it’s a sweetly melancholy Eastern European restaurant during lunchtime on weekdays and during the evenings on Thursdays and Saturdays, and then Indonesian on Friday nights. During the week, the menu is small and handwritten, and the cooking is basically Russian home-cooking. Stuffed cabbage rolls and pep-pers are offered, along with chicken Kiev and hearty beef stews. Both the beef stroganoff and the brisket in wine sauce with mushrooms are tender and have distinctive sauces to grace a mound of rice or noodles.

On Friday nights, a different cook comes in to make rijstaffel, an Indonesian specialty, and that’s the entire menu for the evening. The dish is served with a large mound of rice surrounded by servings of pork stewed with ginger, shrimp cooked with vegetables and hot peppers, noodles seasoned with chicken and spices, cucumber salad and so on. The dish is assertive and peppery-well worth a try. Unusual imported beers go well with both the Russian and the Indonesian dishes, and the baked desserts (available after either type of cuisine) are delicious. The chocolate amaret-to cake is the prize, but the Black Forest cake and the French walnut cake are also fine. At first, the rather plain, dark-colored surroundings seem a bit forbidding. The staff can seem a bit distant on an initial visit, too, but after a short acquaintance, the European reserve fades and you see that the owners and waiters are trying hard to please. (9454 Marsh Lane. 350-9314. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Thur-Sat 5-10. MC, V, AE. $-$$)

Alessio’s. A friend of Alessio’s tells us that when this young restaurateur was growing up in Milan, he had a great desire to see the world. He was told that he’d have better chances to travel if he’d develop a trade that he could take with him on the road. Apparently, Alessio learned to cook, and the particular part of the world he has now chosen to explore is southern Highland Park. His small (55-seat) Italian restaurant opened early in April a few doors down from Café Cancun on Lomo Alto. The first few times we visited in early May, we were disappointed in the food. The spices were too heavy; the sauces, too rich; the salads, overdressed.

But by the end of August, Alessio’s had improved. The service was still a little slow but very friendly, and the atmosphere lent itself well to long dinner hours and another bottle of wine. The list of specials was tempting; we tried the linguini pescatore (a colorful mix of mussels, shrimp, scallops and snow-crab claws served with a sauce that would be worth eating alone with a spoon). The sole was less rich, sautéed in lemon butter and topped with mushrooms and baby shrimp in a white wine sauce. Alessio also offers an impressive list of veal. Our only disappointment was the cheese ravioli. The cheese was good and the pasta was tender, but the meat sauce tasted burned. All in all, Alessio’s has the makings of a first-rate neighborhood restaurant, complete with white tablecloths, red candle lanterns and fresh car-nations. We hope that consistency becomes the owner’s byword. (4117 Lomo Alto. 521-3585. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

Chickeria. In a kind of free-enterprise urban renewal effort, the owners of Chickeria (which opened under the name “Polio Club”) have launched a good new restaurant in a corner of town (near Baylor Hospital and not very far from Fair Park) hitherto untouched by fashion or culinary ambition. Not that Chickeria is pretentious. The decor of this cleaned-up, painted-up old auto repair shop is more industrial-utility than hi-tech. The food is cooked with real care, and the people who fix and serve it are most hospitable. The mainspecialty, of course, is chicken. Marinated incitrus juice and broiled over mesquite wood, itis perfect and downright cheap. The shrimp isequally wonderful: tender, juicy and delicate.

Among the meat dishes (which include brisket), only the ribs don’t quite make it; parboiling has taken the sass out of them. A variety ofvegetables is available daily; the ones we triedwere delicious. The new potatoes were mashedwith their skins still on, and the yellow squashwasn’t soggy. Both were heavily spiked withblack pepper, a flavor we liked but one thatcould sadly keep this from being a place youcan take the kiddies to make sure they havetheir daily dose of vitamins. There were evena couple of good pies for dessert: The pecanwas dark and syrupy; the coconut meringue,toasty. This is down-home cooking at its best.(601 N. Haskell. 821-9072. Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-8 p.m. AE. $)

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. Expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

“Reservations” indicates that the restaurant will take reservations.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.

indicates a restaurant located on or north of LBJ Freeway.



BARBECUE



Dickey’s. We talkin’ lean, high-quality meat heah, boy, and good sweet slaw and plenty o’ beans, plus juicy corn on the cob that’ll squish butter right over on your lady if you don’t watch out. Around noon, this place is crawlin’ with good of boys and bidnissmen, but theydon’t keep ya standin’ long. You may need a little extrysauce on the meat, ’less you like it dry, but this ain’t theFrench Room, so just git on up ’n’ git it. These ol’ boys’llgive you some ambiance, too: They got signs up withthe words spelled like real people say ’em, like “coldslaw” and “sandwitches.” It’s a hoot. And look for the littleproverbs on the chalkboard, like: “Girls, be sure you’reright, then ask your husband.” Shoot, that’s tellin’ ’em.Just one hitch: That banana puddin’ tastes like it’s beencozyin’ up to a test tube. No way that’s homade. (4610N Central Expwy, 821-1571; 13613 Dallas Pkwy,233-3721; 7770 Forest, 361-6537. Mon-Sat 11 am-8pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)



D REVISITS



Peggy’s Beef Bar. If you’re looking for a place to grab a quick barbecue sandwich in comfortable but modest surroundings (by Park Cities standards, this is a dive), don’t waste any more shoe leather. Peggy knows how to dish up some super beef, but she serves stingy portions. And the old gal knows how to make some incredible onion rings and tasty homemade pies, but somebody ought to tell her to stop charging 20 cents for iced tea refills. Guess the rent in the Park Cities is getting high these days. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm. Sat 10 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)



The Rib. This may be the fanciest barbecue place in town, what with its tuxedoed waiters and candlelight, but the touches of old-plantation elegance don’t interfere with the business here: lip-smacking barbecued chicken, brisket and (drum roll, please) ribs. Everything we tasted was good – the family-style beans and sweet German potato salad, the soft, hot garlic bread, the ice-cold beer-but nothing compares to ribs at The Rib. Our waiter warned us at the beginning of our meal not to fill up on the appetizer of smoked sausage, but we couldn’t hold back. By the time we had finished the main course, we were bursting at the seams. All that was lacking, we decided, was soap and water to wash the remainder of our meal off of our hands and face. And then our waiter brought us a bowl of hot water with lemon to do just that. (5741 W Lovers Lane. 357-8139. Daily 5-10 pm. Carryout available daily 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Roscoe White’s Easy Way. You don’t just happen upon what has been affectionately referred to as “The Greasy Way” by a generation of Highland Park residents who were weaned on Roscoe’s barbecue sauce. With the atmosphere of sights and smells of a grade-B truck stop and service reminiscent of “Laverne and Shirley” (without the laughs), there’s little on the surface at this place to entice you to stay. But persevere: There’s some decent home-style barbecued beef, ribs and chicken-fried steak to be had. And the sandwiches are a better bet than the combo plates. Most dishes are accompanied by a fresh (if unimaginative) salad, good fries and a basket of rolls and corn bread. In true truck-stop tradition, desserts are mostly of the fruit- and meringue-pie variety. (5806 Lovers Lane. 526-5044. Daily 7 am-midnight. All credit cards. $)

Sallh’s Bar-B-Que. Salih’s is a longtime Dallas institution that moved north to the Addison strip a few years ago. We can’t brag about the beef brisket, which is rather ordinary, but Salih’s smoked ham and chicken and the sausage poor-boys are great. The extras are a bit better than at most barbecue joints, too. The unusualboiled cabbage is strongly flavored with garlic, and thesmoked beans are home-cooked pintos, not canned.In a city where better-than-average barbecue is all tooscarce, Salih’s stands out. (4801 Belt Line, Addison. 387-2900. Mon-Sat 11 am-8:30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Sonny Bryan’s. This is the kind of no-frills, quality barbecue that must have made Texas famous long ago. And if Texas excess has a good side, it’s the excessive barbecue sauce spilling off Sonny Bryan’s hefty beef sandwiches and juicy ribs. The solid lunch crowd at this small, rustic former drive-in can attest to the great flavor of Sonny’s food – if you can get anyone to stop eating. (2202 lnwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 10 am-2:30 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards. $)



BREAKFAST



The Hungry Jockey. It doesn’t have the clout or the cachet of the Mansion, but it’s a power hangout nonetheless. This modest little restaurant near Preston Road and Forest Lane has been hosting pre-work business breakfasts and Saturday outings with Daddy since it opened 11 years ago. The Jockey serves solid, standard coffee-shop fare with a few outstanding twists: pecan waffles, blueberry pancakes ana great biscuits with cream gravy. (In our book, you’re better off making your own eggs at home.) Service is superior by any measure, but it shines in the only area that really counts at breakfast: The coffee arrives right after you do. And if it’s close to lunchtime, you might want to try the chicken. (1417 Preston Forest Square. 661-0134. Mon-Sat 6:30 am-2 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Little Gus’. This lower Greenville landmark is the perfect spot for breakfast, the day’s least pretentious meal. Justly famous for its greaseburgers (lunch) and Greek specialties (dinner), Little Gus’ also whips up a fine basic breakfast and serves it any hour of the day. The food comes hot and in a hurry; usually, even on a busy morning, you’ll hear your name called before you’ve scanned the headlines. The cook-no chefs here-can distinguish between eggs over easy and eggs over medium, a gift too rare in the age of Denny’s. (1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Mon-Thur 7:30 am-4 pm & 6-9 pm; Fri & Sat 7:30 am-4 pm & 6-10 pm: Sun 9 am-1:45 pm. No credit cards. $)

Lucas B & B. Who says reasonable breakfast prices and waitresses with beehive hairdos went out with the Fifties? The decor here is early greasy spoon, the service is fast and courteous, and the atmosphere is bustling. Were it not for an occasional Oak Lawn punk rocker seated in one of the orange booths behind you, you might mistake Lucas’ for a West Texas café. The eggs are as fresh and tasty as the menu hypes them, but the rest of the food is average. (3520 Oak Lawn. 526-8525. Daily 24 hours, except 1:45-3 pm MC, V. $)



D REVISITS



Adelina’s. Where else in University Park can you make do-it-yourself burritos of chorizo and eggs or retried beans for breakfast? A sturdy meal like this will brace you for a chilly day of hard work. Adelina’s also serves lunch, but the ordinary Mexican food doesn’t compare with the fare that made the proprietor’s former establishment. Adelante, so special. (6027 Berkshire Lane. 363-8680. Mon, Tue & Thur-Sat 9 am-3 pm. Wed 6-9 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards, personal checks accepted. $)



The Mecca. Welcome back to the land of marbled Formica, orange vinyl booths and-if you ask for it-speed-oflight service with a smile. The price of two eggs, hash browns or grits, bacon or sausage and biscuits hasn’t changed in years, and the heaping portions and heavenly taste can’t be topped. The Mecca missed the age of Texas chic (thank goodness), but the biscuits are still light and just right for dunking, the eggs are hot and the grits (with a little salt) are divine. (10422 Harry Hines. 352-0051. Mon-Fri 5:30 am-3 pm, Sat 5:30 am-2 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)



EUROPEAN



Agnew’s. Agnew’s is known as one of the city’s poshest restaurants, but our idea of elegant dining apparently differs from that of the management. The atmosphereis elegant, to a point: The colors are rich, the walls arecovered with dark wood paneling, and a fireplaceadorns a far wall. But if elegance is synonymous with intimacy, the atmosphere here is lacking. Our waiter wasfriendly, efficient and helpful with menu selections, buthis too-chummy attitude didn’t seem to mesh with thetone the management is trying to achieve. As for thefood, our cream of yellow pepper soup was perfect;and the spinach salad with bleu cheese and bacondressing was good. The tournedos of beef were excellent: The sauce was light in color and flavor, and themeat was tender and cooked to perfection. The veal,served in a similar creamy sauce, was also excellent.The vegetables, however, were not top-notch: The asparagus was bitter, and the potato souffle was toogarlicky. Desserts are Agnew’s specialty, and the white-chocolate mousse is a masterpiece. (15501 Dallas Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza. Suite 300. 458-0702. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat seatings at 6:30 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recom mended. All credit cards. $$$$)

The Bay Tree. During the first 10 minutes of our visit to the Wyndham Hotel’s gourmet restaurant, we twice heard waiters apologize for its minuscule size. But despite that dubious beginning, we enjoyed a beautifully prepared rack of lamb that was artistically arranged in small slices around a tomato stuffed with eggplant. The lamb was cooked to perfection: crisp on the outside and juicy toward the middle. We also tried the special New York sirloin, wonderfully presented in a red wine sauce topped with tender morels. For dessert, the double-fudge cake served with orange sauce was rich and creamy. (The Wyndham Hotel, 2222 Stemmons 631-2222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30; Sun brunch: 11-3. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Belvedere. Cozy as an Austrian country inn, with a fireplace that blazes year ’round, Belvedere may be one of the best kept secrets in town. With a less-than-obvious location (it’s upstairs in a Lomo Alto apartment hotel), this Teutonic cousin of The Chimney is easy to miss. But don’t: The service is pampering; the atmosphere, romantic; the food, top-notch; the prices, fair. Veal lovers will rejoice at the variety of preparation available, from simple medallions sautéed in lemon and butter to a piquant veal steak in Dijon mustard sauce and capers. Veal Oscar with crab and asparagus is good but would benefit from a less liberal dousing of hollandaise. Other standouts: the house wine, the vichyssoise, the Belvedere salad with bleu cheese and the “Austrian snowball,’ a vanilla ice cream ball rolled in toasted almonds and laced with chocolate sauce. (4242 Lomo Alto in Crestpark Hotel. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: 6 10:30. All credit cards. $$$)



Bohemia. We’d give up dining at a hundred North Dallas continental palaces for a single meal at this tiny, family-owned Bohemian restaurant with its frilly lace curtains, flickering votive candles, warm bread and soft butter. The atmosphere is undeniably romantic; dinner is served by descendants of the Czechoslovakian babushka who works wonders in the kitchen. We tried boiled beef – the sort of stick-to-your-ribs entree you’d expect from a Bohemian mama – and were wholly content with the stout serving of beef, sour-cream gravy and dill sauce. The sauerbrauten was prepared in the Czech manner (that means cream) and arrived with a side dish of cranberries. Although the main dishes here are plenty filling, don’t skip the soup (the potato soup has a hearty, beefy taste). The chocolate mousse is laced with just the right amount of orange liqueur. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Mon- Thur 5:30- 10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 pm Closed Sun. All credit cards. Reservations recommended. $$$)

Blom’s. Cool pastels mix well with Gershwin tunes inthis Westin Hotel restaurant. The food is. for the mostpart, excellent. The lobster, salmon and scallop terrineprepared with dill and tarragon was smooth; each seafood flavor was distinguishable. The artichoke bottomsfilled with crab were fresh and were served with a light,buttery sauce. The cream of watercress soup wassmooth, rich and chilled perfectly. Delightful tart sorbetsin five or six different flavors are offered before the entree, and a tree of complimentary petit fours appearsafter every meal. (The Westin Hotel, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm; brunch: Sun 10:302:30. Jackets and ties required. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

Cafe Caprl. Cafe Capri is another of the Old World-style, standardly continental new kids in town. The parking lot is full of expensive cars, the cloak room overflows with luxurious fur coats, and diners here leave happily filled with high-quality cuts of beef, veal, fish or fowl. But Café Capri is better than most newcomers of its genre.The sauces on our entrees were prepared at the table,and although we were a bit nervous as we watched ourwaiter submerge a beautiful steak Diane in thick brownsauce, we were relieved and delighted to taste the lightblend of red wine, cream, mushrooms, shallots, Dijonmustard and Worcestershire sauce. The strawberriesflambé dessert alone made the drive to Addison worthwhile. The mixture of fresh berries, orange rind, brownsugar and Grand Marnier topped with whipped creamwas spectacular. (15107 Addison Road, near Belt Line.960-8686. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservationsrecommended. All credit cards. $$)

Café Royal. With so many elegant new restaurants in town, it’s easy to forget about Cafe Royal. The place has settled quickly into a kind of matronly middle age and has adopted the mannerisms of its rivals- a pianist who noodles slightly too loudly and complimentary sorbets served up between courses, ostensibly to clear the palate but in fact so sweet they set your teeth on edge. And on a Saturday night, the place can be half empty. The food, too, can be a bit dowdy (no more of those nouvelle touches that seemed so chic when Cafe Royal opened), and there are lapses: fishy-smelling crayfish and butter that tastes as if it had been sitting in the fridge for days. But there can still be magic in this kitchen, especially when the dish is a classical one with a little zing to it. The chevreuil sauce adds a delightful touch to a tender filet of beef, and the thick veal steak and accompanying shrimp are ideal in texture and taste. The kitchen also serves up some of the most perfect souffles in town. Despite the occasional blemishes, the overpriced wine list and the continental serving staff that tries a bit too hard, Cafe Royal can still offer a better meal than some of its more fashionable competitors. (650 N Pearl in Plaza of the Americas. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11:30. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Calluaud’s. Since Martine and Guy Calluaud have resumed their lunch service at the home location on McKinney Avenue, it’s just like old times. The luncheon salads are as elegant as ever, and the lamb chops with trench fries have also returned intact. So have the omelettes, which are beautifully presented with green beans and shredded carrots. Dinner here is still one of Dallas’ most sensual experiences. Everything from the expertly assembled champagne cocktails to the excellent after-dinner liqueurs is orchestrated with quiet perfection. We began our meal with pheasant pate with pistachio and truffles en croute, followed by a house salad (asparagus, tomato, artichoke hearts and avocado on a bed of lettuce with a Dijon mustard dressing). Next came the entrees: duck with two sauces (mushroom and bearnaise with tomato), grilled sea bass in tomato sauce with basil, tournedos and filet en croute in madeira sauce with truffles. All were impeccably prepared and artfully served. For dessert: soufflés-what else? (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE; personal checks accepted. $$$$)



D REVISITS



The Chimney. This Swiss-Austrian restaurant has acquired quite a following in Dallas since it opened in 1968. Regulars are greeted by name, but newcomers are made to feel no less welcome. We were charmed by the friendliness of the waitresses, the soft classical German recordings and a meal we enjoyed from start to finish. A light beginning is The Chimney appetizer: scallops, shrimp and shallots in a white wine and cream sauce, rolled in a crìpe and topped with hollandaise sauce and a touch of Dijon mustard. We also enjoyed the chunky cream of mushroom soup, the imaginatively dressed salads and plenty of The Chimney’s black bread (owner Heinz Prast’s own recipe). Veal is the specialty of the house (10 varieties are offered), and the Veal Oscar is excellent. The Veal Colonial, however, was not: The natural flavor of the meat was smothered by a mediocre curry sauce, broiled bananas and coconut. Next time, we’ll stick to main-line veal or lamb. (9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Ceret. This isolated corner of the downtown area has been transformed into a true French outpost. Ceret tries to bring authentic bistro food to Dallas at popular prices ($20 for two for a four-course dinner) and is mostly successful. The chefs specialty is a simplified feulleté (puff pastry) that reaches optimum crispness and tenderness. Other items vary in quality from fair to excellent. Among the appetizers, the pǎté of duck liver and the terrine of duck breast were first-rate, but the salmon mousse had a tinny aftertaste. The outstanding seafood offering was the sautéed scallops. The steak, although cut too thin to be cooked truly rare, was preferable to the duck breast, which was tough. And all the desserts we sampled were scrumptious. (703 McKmney. 720-0297. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10 30. Closed Sun. MC.V, AE $$$)



D REVISITS



L’Ambiance. Forget that this building formerly housed a gas station. The important thing is that the kitchen is one of a handful in Dallas that does almost everything right. From the opening lobster bisque to the closing Concorde cake, every dish we sampled was awe-in-spinng. We couldn’t decide which one we liked best: the veal topped with mushroom puree, the fish soup or the crisp duck with green peppercorn sauce. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner. Mon-Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



Chlǒa. Once you get past the gorgeous glass front doors and are almost out of earshot of the blaring stereo system, you can enjoy a splendid four-course dinner here. The lobster mousse and the oysters and escar-gots with spinach are both fine openers. For the main course, the filet of sea bass with beluga caviar is sinfully indulgent, and the duck with black currants is moist and tender with just the right touch of sweetness. For dessert, try the white chocolate mousse or the amaret-to souffle. (8854 N Central Expwy in NorthPark East. 361-9996. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15; dinner: Mon-Thur 7-10, Fri & Sat 7-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$$)

Clair da Lune. The menu at this breezy Quadrangle restaurant offers an interesting, rich assortment of entrees such as Cornish hen, trout, breast of chicken with artichoke hearts and minute steak with french fries. We were disappointed with our onion soup au gratin; it lacked cheese, and the hunk of soggy French bread floating in the middle didn’t redeem it. But the salad Clair de Lune was huge and fresh, with a collection of mushrooms, cheese, tomatoes, green pepper and bacon arranged on top with little or no dressing. (2800 Routh in the Quadrangle. 871-2288. Mon-Thur 9 am-12:30 am, Fri & Sat 9 am-2 am. Sun 11-11. All credit cards. $$)



D REVISITS



Jennivine. You know you’re in for a treat when the first thing that greets you is a larger-than-life-sized poster of Prince Charles and Princess Diana grinning toothily at you in the entryway. Welcome to Jennivine. “a little bit of England in Dallas.” It is that and more: Pǎtés ranging from lobster to smoked herring, imported cheeses (English and otherwise), hearty French and German wines, European cuisine and typically British touches of humor. There’s a strolling guitar player on weekdays, a wandering long-stemmed-rose seller daily and, most importantly, superb food. During the week, the menu is presented on a chalkboard, but on weekends you get a real menu. If you’re very hungry, start with a Small Sampler Plate, a combination of your choice of three pǎtés and/or cheeses. We might still be deciding between pages full of tempting options had it not been for the wise counsel of a gracious waiter (we finally settled on lobster pǎté and llchester and walnut gourmandise cheeses). (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon- Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Crackers. Owner Gus Katsigns takes great pride in the meals he serves in this charming 80-year-old house. The specialties are Greek dishes: Dolmas (stuffed grape leaves), ouzo meatballs (deep-fried with lots of onions and spices) and Greek salads are some exceptional examples. Hamburgers, quiches and sandwiches are also offered to please all palates. Whatever your mood for the evening, don’t forget to order the soup. it’s always a creamy delight and is served with one of Crackers’ famous cheese crackers. A light menu (consisting of a number of small portions of Crackers’ specialties) is now offered, and a charming front patio has been added. (2621 McKinney. 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Sat 11-3. Sun 11-5; dinner Sun-Thur 5-10:30. Fri & Sat 5-midnight. MC. V. AE. $$)

Francisco’s. This is a perfect romantic hideaway: It’s dark, pleasantly musty and intimate. Service is tremendous-efficient but not hovering-and the food is exceptional. The Champignons Farci (mushrooms stuffed with ground veal) are delicious starters, as are the elegant veal crepes in a smooth hollandaise sauce. The sirloin steak with crushed green peppercorns is the shining star among the numerous beef offerings; several poultry and fish specialties are also available. For dessert, the peach melba is a nice, light selection. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11. Reservations. MC. V. AE. $$$)

The French Room. The French Room retains its status as the crème de la crème of fine Dallas restaurants. The quality of cuisine is, to date, unrivaled. In fact, while savoring succulent braised lobster and tenderloin of lamb, we doubted we could have fared better. The French Room’s management makes sura that along with superb cuisine comes service that aims to make each diner feel like a member of the first estate. Although the menu selections hold their own, we ordered each course of our meal from among the specials of the day and weren’t disappointed. The duck salad was large enough to have been a meal in itself, and every sumptuous bite was heavenly. For dessert, the fruit melange topped with a creamy sauce and the tart raspberry pastry in a caramel sauce were wonderful. (Addphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Frenchy Café. This sunny Parisian lunch spot has hardwood floors and several glass cases in view to tempt you with baked goods, meats and cheeses. The hot roast beef sandwich on a butter croissant covered with melted cheese is light yet filling. The chocolate mousse a I’orange-creamy and rich with whipped cream on top-can foil your attempt at a low-calorie lunch. Quiche, soup and fabulous pates are also offered. (5940 Royal. 369-1235. Mon 11 am-3 pm, Tue-Fri 11 am-7pm, Sat 11 am-5 pm Closed Sun. MC, V. $)

The Garden Court. This Melrose Hotel restaurant proves that age can be accompanied by beauty and grace. The 59-year-old hotel has been born again, and its mix of art deco and traditional styling is the perfect setting for a relaxing lunch or a romantic dinner. The rich, moist fudge-nut cake makes it difficult to choose a sensible entree, but a bowl of seafood chowder crowded with great hunks of fish and fresh vegetables and a crisp Garden Court salad make a perfect lunch. (3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Breakfast: Mon-Fri 6:30-11; lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur6:30-10. Fri & Sat 6:30-11; Sun brunch: 11-3. Reservations recommended tor dinner and for five or more at lunch. All credit cards. $$$)

The Grape. Quaint, cozy and European is the best way to describe this small, neighborhood establishment. The atmosphere is casual and intimate, with tables close together and lights dimmed. The European cuisine is exceptional, whether you’re ordering a cheese and fruit board, a vegetable and dip platter or a meal. The Grape’s homemade cream of mushroom soup-buttery and full of fresh mushrooms and mild onions-is a must. Several daily specials are displayed on chalkboards; chicken en croute is a specialty, and the fish is always fresh and is almost always cooked to perfection. As could be expected from the name, the wine list is extraordinary. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-midnight. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



D REVISITS



Enjolle. The atmosphere here is reminiscent of a lavish resort: The decor is subtly sophisticated, but many male diners don’t bother to wear ties. The food – at its best – is wonderful, but it is at its best when it isn’t quite so fancy. Simpler dishes such as the mussel soup (brimming with saffron) and the homemade pistachio ice cream (rich with nuts) work better than the more intn-cate ones, such as the quail that is boned and stuffed and wrapped in a crépe. The pampering service here extends to three complimentary courses: delectable puff-pastry bouchees served with aperitifs; a wide selection of cheeses after the entree; and fabulous petits fours and candies at the finish. The house wines here are French and are better than those you buy by the bottle at many restaurants. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel. 221 S Las Colinas Blvd. Irving. 556-0800, ext. 3155. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, dinner: Mon-Sat 6-midnight Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



La Champagne. La Champagne, the French dining room of the new Registry Hotel, looks smashing (rumor has it that it was decorated and redecorated five times before it opened). But we’ve found it difficult to have agood meal and a good time here. The appetizer of scallops with seaweed boasted perfectly steamed, silkyscallops; and the galantine of wild duck was marvelous-ly rich with foie gras and truffles. But there was an offnote in each of the sauces, and similar disharmonieshave marred many dishes. It seems churlish to complain about La Champagne in the lap of so much luxury, but all the fancy touches can be wearying if themain attraction – the food-does not excite. (Registry Hotel. 15201 Dallas Pkwy. 386-6000. Mon-Sat 6-11 pm. Sun brunch seatings at 11. 12:30 & 1:45. All credit cards. $$$$)



D REVISITS



Gallé. Seated in this Lincoln Hotel restaurant, we saw flickering candlelight illuminating the mauves and pinks of the dining room and dancing off the mirrored pillars and etched-glass room dividers surrounding our table. We settled back to enjoy all the best of what we’ve grown to expect from the fancy continental restaurants in Far North Dallas hotels. The Chateaubriand for two was succulent, as was the generous tenderloin servedwith goose liver and topped with a truffle. The scampi,served with a delicate crab sauce, was tender. ButGallé’s best offerings were its side dishes. We enjoyedan unusual assortment of stuffed squash, asparagusand carrots and a light potato fritter with all our entrees.The appetizers were good, too, but you’ll want to saveroom for dessert. The spread is lavishly displayed, andthe desserts taste as good as they look. Complaints?Only one. The service was efficient to the point of beingsentrylike. We felt as though we had a reputation forpocketing flatware. (Lincoln Hotel. 5410 LBJ Frwy inLincoln Center 934-8400. Mon-Fri 6-11 pm. Sat 6-11:30 pm Reservations requested. Jackets and ties re-quired All credit cards. $$$$)



Laurel’s. This is another of the beautiful new North Dallas hotel restaurants in which palate-cleansing sorbets and bottled sparkling water are standard fare. Floor-length windows offer wide-angle views of down-town, nearby skyscrapers and all that’s in between. Each course easily held our interest. We enjoyed fresh, artfully arranged vegetables, a tartly dressed salad and tenderloin in blueberries (just one of the interesting fruit-sauced entrees offered). We were equally pleased with the scallops in grapefruit sauce; they were tender and fresh, and the fruit flavor was deliciously subtle. (Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

La Vieille Varsovie (The Old Warsaw). With all its plush elegance, this old-line dining establishment boasts a few charming eccentricities in its decor. Note the pink flamingos dancing gaily across the forest-green walls. Hear the gentle blending of violin and piano as the music drifts delicately across the spacious room. Watch the multitudinous captains and waiters weave in and out of tables, attending to napkins that need placing, cigarettes that need lighting, pheasants that need carving. In the midst of all the theatrics here, it can be extremely difficult to keep one’s mind on one’s meal. The artichoke heart appetizer with shrimp and raspberry vinaigrette tasted a trifle boring, with nary a hint of raspberry. The fresh seafood soup fared better, as did our entrees: poached Dover sole with shrimp in lobster sauce, and veal with mushrooms. Strawberries in fresh cream and a chocolate souffle were perfect endings. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-11 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11:30 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$$)



D REVISITS



Le St. Tropez. The cozy blue room of this out-of-the-way French bistro with nautical motifs and personal photographs promises much; so does the charming and personable service. But the food fails to deliver. On a recent visit, not one dish was up to standard. Thecucumber soup was bitter and zestless; the paté,bland and textureless; the snapper, fishy; the apple tart,burned. We hope that the kitchen was just having an offnight, but with so much wrong it’s hard to justify anoutlay of $50 for a meal for two. (8030 Spring Valley atCoit in North wood Hills Shopping Center. 231-6181.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10:30, Sat5-11. Closed Sun. Alt credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)



Le Boul’ Mich. A glimpse at Le Boul’ Mich’s sparse menu is hardly surprising: pate maison, quiche Lorraine and omelette after omelette. Each of these items is well-prepared, particularly the Omelette Boul’ Mich, which is filled with every variety of garden vegetable. A light, romantic dinner here is delightful, and the patio and indoor porch of this little white house make it an irresistible luncheon spot as well. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660 Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. MC. V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS



Mozart’s. We kept hearing tales of meals gone awry atMozart’s, so we went back for another look at this too-cute but pleasant imitation of a Viennese cafe. Wefound the Austrian-German specialties a bit Americanized, but still appealing. The cold appetizer cart held agenerous selection of everything from shrimp and salmon to eggs stuffed with liver paste. Both the wienerschnitzel and the veal cordon bleu were lightly fried andcrisp, accompanied with crunchy fresh vegetables inaddition to the bread dumplings or spatzle. No Viennese person would recognize the Sacher torte-thecake was light and airy rather than dense and choco-latey – but with the topping of whipped cream, it wastasty all the same. (Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit 385-3000. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)



Le Louvre. Nestled in the Corner Shopping Center between Wilderness Adventure and No Whar But Texas is this elegant restaurant, which has absolutely nothing in common with its neighbors. We relaxed in a loveseat beneath a glittering chandelier in a room with enough Old Master-style paintings to remind us of the restaurant’s namesake. But the art became incidental after the arrival of a bowl of creamy onion soup topped with Swiss cheese and a lobster bisque sweetened with cognac. The waiter deftly tossed our salads tableside and brought perfectly cooked beef and veal with three varieties of plump wild mushrooms. (9840 N Central Ex-pwy in the Corner Shopping Center. 691-1177. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri 6-11:30, Sat 6-midnight: Sun brunch: 11:30-2:30. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



Le Rendez Vous. What a compliment it is to our city that we can eat a romantic, candle-lit dinner at a pleasant French bistro and deem it only average. Such is the case at Le Rendez Vous. The service was a little too lax, and at times the waiters seemed more interested in talking to each other than in waiting on tables. The menu is ambitious, with unusual selections that include cream of green bean soup and a tantalizing selection of five dessert souffles. The restaurant also offers a sidewalk cafe, but for the money, we’ve had better food. The scallops were inexcusably tough and tasteless, and the shish kebab with rice was so salty we could feel our arteries squeezing shut. Although the crab au gratin appetizer was perfect and the vegetables were tender and fresh, the souffles were disappointing-they looked gorgeous but lacked taste and soul. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1 am, Sun 11-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Les Saisons. Within a setting that resembles turn-of-the-century suburban Paris, Les Saisons serves meals that are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent. We enjoyed shrimp Les Saisons (shrimp served in a delicious cream sauce with chablis, mushrooms and shredded carrots) and coquille St. Jacques (tiny bay scallops served with orange quarters). The cream of cauliflower soup was unexceptional, but we were warmly reassured by the onion soup topped with lots of melted cheese. (Oak Lawn at Blackburn in Turtle Creek Village, Suite 165. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Lurtino’s. Lurtino’s boasts a menu that changes daily and includes Northern Italian and continental cuisine. The selection and quality have improved commend-ably. The appetizers include cold and hot antipasto plates, garlicky escargot, spaghetti with chunky home-made tomato sauce (perhaps a bit too sweet) and the creamiest, best-seasoned fettucine Alfredo we’ve sampled recently. We tried a whole live lobster cooked in awhite wine sauce, which arrived conveniently crackedwith lemon and a side dish of seasoned butter – proofpositive that Lurtino’s continental cuisine equals itsItalian fare. (13601 Preston at Alpha in Carillon Towers,Suite C22. 661-9766. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner:Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Manhattan. This continental restaurant in the northwest corner of Preston Forest Shopping Center can’tdecide whether to be formal or relaxed. The heavy curtains and the tuxedoed waiters portend pretension, butthe logo of skyscrapers and other stark details don’tquite fit. The food, too, falls betwixt and between. Theveal is of good quality and is cooked well, but it sits oncanned asparagus; the chicken Kiev is juicy but bland.The menu doesn’t contain much adventure, either (anybody for another round of overpriced stuffed mushrooms and vichyssoise?). We have no major complaintsabout Manhattan-the quality of the cooking is generally good-we just wonder if it will ever find its identity.(1482 Preston Forest Square, Suite 1482. 385 8221.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3: dinner: daily 5-11. All credit cards.$$$)

Maple Street East. The elegant decor of this restored Victorian home near downtown provides an excellent atmosphere for anything from a business lunch to a romantic dinner. The fettuccine Alfredo (offered either as an appetizer or as a luncheon entree) is rich and smooth, the lamb chops are tender and grilled to perfection, and the white chocolate mousse is worth the calories. An elegant private dining room, complete with a picture window overlooking the downtown skyline, is offered for special occasions, though service is sometimes slow. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun- Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30; brunch: Sun 11:30-2:30. MC. V, AE. $$$)



Patry’s. Patry’s was the second French restaurant in Dallas when it opened in 1968. Although splashier establishments have since come on the scene, a Patry’s waiter couldn’t have spoken more accurately when he said, “You know, you come here when all you want is good food and conversation.’ Some people might miss the pomp and circumstance-the carpet can only be described as durable, there’s not a harpist in sight and the crowd is establishment rather than chic. But it’s nice to unwind at Patry’s in the evening, when the chef and the house staff have time to perform. Try the leeks stuffed with veal and pork; they’re just spicy enough and the small dish is topped with a slightly sweet cream sauce. The pepper steak and the filet mignon, both served with heaps of fresh wild mushrooms, were tender and delicious. For dessert, we indulged in crìpes suzette. Here the results were worth the table-side theatrics: The dessert was sweet and smooth, without a trace of bitterness from the orange rinds. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Rolf’s. This elegant new German restaurant in Caruth Plaza combines authentic specialties with standard continental dishes and accomplishes both with flair. Among the appetizers, we sampled an excellent smoked eel with dill sauce. A wide assortment of entrees is offered: tender schnitzel paprika and a racier rinds roulade (braised beef), which come with good German side dishes like spatzle (sautéed noodles) and potato dumplings. The salads are complex marvels; and the apple strudel with vanilla sauce can’t be beat. (9100 N Central Expwy in Caruth Plaza, Suite 117. 696-1933. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Three Vikings. Valkommen to Fjord Country on lower Greenville. We can’t swear that this place is authentic, but we promise it has character, from the potato pancakes to the maps of Scandinavia taped to the rough wood walls. Lovingly tended by its owners (the Edmans family), Three Vikings has a bustling, neighborhood feel -the sort of place where people come in all sizes and shapes. The food is just as diverse and, generally, is very good. Steaks are every bit as tasty and tender as your best backyard filet, and who can argue with a full quarter-pound of lump crab stuffed inside? Veal Norway (pounded thin, stuffed with crab and topped with a white cream sauce) is a winner, and so are the potato pancakes. But the real standout here is a Finnish shrimp chowder (the smoothest, heartiest we’ve ever had, including Boston’s best). Chocolate cheese pie, the dessert Three Vikings “is famous for.” is a cool, melt-in-your-mouth blend of cheesecake and chocolate mousse. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm, Sun 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



GOURMET CARRYOUT



Marty’s. Some people dream of being stranded on a desert island; we’ll settle for being stranded inside Marty’s, the Oak Lawn gourmet takeout and grocery that is “essential to the epicure.” Marty’s is a mouthwatering wonderland of sweets, cheeses, fresh fruits, meats, vegetables and wines. Choose a picnic basket and fill it on your way to the checkout line. If you have trouble putting it all together, get a copy of Marty’s weekly menu. We enjoyed some delicious cold lettuce soup, mushroom a la Greave, roasted stuffed squab and some heavenly banana-nut cheesecake at home with our own candlelight and crystal. Our only complaint: Don’t count on Marty’s promise that “containers are oven- and microwave-safe.” (3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS



Mirabelle. Stepping into Mirabelle evokes an agony of indecision: How to choose among the dozens of things on display? We can’t do without a pǎté (the duck pate with walnuts is divine). Shall we get the black-eyed pea salad or the one with roasted peppers? After taking our pick of French cheeses, quiches and meat pies, breads and sandwiches, we break down when confronted by all the desserts and take home one of each: peach and frangipani tarts, bran and zucchini muffins, chocolate chip cookies and heavenly light macaroons. Now all we have to decide is how to work off those delicious pounds. (Preston at Mockingbird in Highland Park Village, Suite 74. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm; Sun & Mon noon-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)



The Winery. Amid the vast wine stock at this shop adjacent to Jean Claude restaurant is a display case full of edible goodies perfect for eating in or carrying out. The emphasis is on freshly prepared salads and desserts and home-baked breads and cheeses, including hard-to-find varieties such as mozzarella rolled with prosciutto. Caterer Theresa Magee will make sandwich or cheese trays, antipasto plates, dips and hors d’oeuvres for parties, or you can sample her hearty soups and sandwiches on the spot with a glass of wine. (2404 Cedar Springs at Maple. 749-0250. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm, Sun noon-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)



INDIAN



Sahib. Every time we go to Sahib we’re delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor and the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Our favorite dish is Maharaja Sahib’s mughlai biryani (lamb cooked with herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs). It tastes even better with some sweet mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread). Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so remember that you can turn down the “Elephant’s Memory” (a pina coladalike drink) and the mango ice cream, but enjoy the advice – the waiters will tell you exactly what to expect from each dish. (9100 N Central Expwy in Caruth Plaza. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)



D REVISITS



Kebab-N-Kurry. This plain little place serves the best food of any sort for miles around. The specialties cooked in the tandoor (a clay barbecue oven) are juicy and delicately spiced; and the sauces in the various curries are rich and piquant. Lunch is a special bargain here. On weekdays there is a nice array of entrees (kebabs and curries ranging from chicken in a spicy spinachsauce to shrimp with tomato and yogurt), all served withsoup or salad, a vegetable curry and rice. On week-ends, the buffet is a feast (it even includes an Indiandessert in its low overall price). At the new location onWalnut Hill, the food seems to be just as good, and theplace is less crowded. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300, Richardson, 231-5556; 2620 Walnut Hill, 350-6466. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30, dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30 at Richardson location. Lunch: daily 11-2; dinner; Mon-Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30 at Walnut Hill location. Reservations. MC,V. AE. $)



Tanjore. At this small North Dallas Indian restaurant, the Middle Eastern mood comes through loud and clear with piped-in Hindi music and the tastes and smells of curry, cumin, cinnamon and coriander. Tanjore offers a large selection of vegetarian dishes as wellas poultry, seafood, lamb and beef specialties. We settled on an order of lamb mugali (chunks of tender lambin a creamy sauce with nuts) and shahi korma (bonelesschicken cooked in curry with butter, cream and almonds). The sauces of both dishes were spiced mildly, but not meekly. For something unusual, try a tan-jorita, a soothing whipped yogurt drink. (5409 Belt Linein Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center. 960-0070.Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 6-10: brunch:Sat & Sun 11:30-3. Bar membership available. All creditcards. $$)



ITALIAN



Adriano’s. At last, Dallas has a chichi pizza place. Adriano’s, just north of Theatre Three in the Quadrangle, serves pizzas of the most outré sorts. How does a combination of goat cheese, smoked salmon and capers grab you? Or vegetable pizza, heavy with thickly sliced carrots and eggplant? Or a topping of chicken and cream sauce? Most of the pizza combinations work surprisingly well, especially the one with pancetta (Italian bacon), tomatoes and mushrooms. The decor of Adriano’s is highest tech, with lots of pipes and vents showing. (2800 Routh in the Quadrangle. 871-2262. Mon-Sat 11:30am-2am. Sun 6-10 pm. MC. V. AE $$)



D DISCOVERS



Alfonso. Please don’t dress up for a meal at Alfonso- it just wouldn’t be right. This is a true old-style family pizzeria and Southern Italian restaurant-with Formica table tops and top-40 music. The meals are very filling – veal parmigiana was heavy on the cheese and light on the veal and was smothered in a slightly sweet, chunky tomato sauce. Pizzas here are lavish and so big that they are presented on a tray set up next to your table. Piping-hot rolls that are pizza-dough chewy and topped with garlic salt are served with every meal, as is a large salad with a very garlicky Italian dressing. Nobody leaves this place hungry- in fact, most leave with doggie bags tucked under their arms and smiles on their faces. (Buckner at Garland in Casa Linda Plaza, Suite 328. 327-7777. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30: dinner: Mon- Thur 5-9:30. Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun.AE.$)



D REVISITS



Cremona. Often, the best Italian restaurants can be spotted not by how they look but rather by how they feel. In this sense, Cremona is very Italian. Based on location alone, you might never even find this Italian hideaway, let alone go in (it’s at the end of a dead-end street near the Quadrangle, across from the Snakepit bar and in the same complex with several eccentric lit-tle shops). But do go in; your visit will be an enjoyable one. Cremona is a mixture of romance and surrealism (charming ladder-back chairs and candle-lit tables that share a room with a boisterous accordion player and a surrealistic painting of a man peeling up the Venice canal – gondolas and all). Cremona’s menu is a limited one: several pastas (including a rich, creamy tortellini, lasagna. ravioli and fettucine) and a few meat dishes (try the Scampi Lucifero, a satisfying mix of huge scampi and maninara sauce). The pace here is Italian, too: It ranges from slow, easy and potently romantic to loud and rambunctiously chaotic. (2600 Woodrow between Cedar Springs and Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)



Campial’a. This is the stuff of which institutions are made: good food, reasonable prices and a great atmosphere. Dine in one of two dimly lit rooms lined with celebrity photos and crowded with vinyl benches and plastic tables. The scampi is some of the best around, and the veal marsala with rich mushroom sauce, the fet-tuccine and the garlic toast are all delectable. The pizza, of course, is a Dallas legend. Campisi’s is casual, and the service is very good, but expec; to wait in line almost any night after 7:30. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355 or 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat 11 am-1 am. Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Ciao! Spicy, thick pizza, calzones. pasta and a wide variety of other Italian fare are the mainstays. Our pizza was well-laced with oregano and garlic and was layered with homemade sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes and Italian red peppers. The crust was thick, chewy and meant to be eaten with a fork. (A couple of non-pizza selections are included on the menu and are offered as daily specials if you’re in the mood for something more substantial). (3921 -B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Daily noon-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS



Bugatti. One always fears that when a restaurant opens a branch, the original establishment will suffer. So far, that doesn’t seem to be the case with Bugatti. A recent lunch showed no change from our previous visits: formidable crowds and the same great tortellini and créme caramel as ever. One welcome new twist is the special of the day: shrimp parmigiana. The tomato sauce and cheese were much better accompaniments to the fresh-tasting shrimp than one might expect. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri&SatS:30-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)



DiPalma. It’s still hard to resist this festive restaurant/food store and its wide array of pastas, despite spotty service and inflated prices. DiPalma features several flavorful dishes not found at other Italian establishments (such as chicken lasagna and lemon garlic chicken) as well as the more traditional Italian fare. For an adventurous and rewarding lunch, try the pasta salad sampler. The incredible assortment of Italian pastries is as good as it looks. (1520 Greenville. 824-4500. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)

Fabio’s. If Fabio’s isn’t the first name that comes to mind when you think of Italian restaurants in Dallas, it may be because of its awkward location in the Corner Shopping Center. But that shouldn’t be a concern because Fabio’s offers fine Italian fare and highly attentive service. Tagliarini belleza (pasta tossed in a combination of mushrooms and seafood) and tagliarini al salmone (pasta in a salmon sauce) make it tempting to stick with the pasta, but the veal and seafood dishes- particularly the sole mugnaia (filet of sole in lemon and butter sauce) -are well worth a detour. (9820 N Central Expwy in the Corner Shopping Center. Suite 504. 987-3226. Sun& Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE.$$$)

La Tosca. This is neither the fanciest nor the most expensive Italian restaurant in Dallas, but it is one of the best. The elegant black-and-white tiles and the waiters’ black-and-white striped shirts give the restaurant just the right touch of class. The rest is left to the food, which is deftly prepared and served. We enjoyed fine, tender beef and red snapper as well as several different kinds of delicious, piping-hot pasta. The cheesecake is more oakelike than most Dallasites are accustomed to, but it is very good. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Thur & Sun 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombard!; Ristorante Lombardl. It would be difficult to picture a nirvana that didn’t include an occasional alfresco lunch at Lombardi’s on Hall Street. The patio is Old World-style, the breezes are fine, and the offerings are among the best Northern Italian fare in town. Smart starters are a piquant combination of mozzarella, juicy beefsteak tomatoes and fresh basilleaves or a basket full of crisp yet tender fried calamari.Lombardi’s pasta is legendary, with the tortellini vyingfor the top slot in town. The vegetables were a bit on theskimpy side when served at lunch on Hall Street butwere inspirational accents to dinner at the AdelsteinPlaza location. Diced eggplant and creamed spinachcleverly wrapped in a cut-out potato round were amongthe best dishes in a lengthy and memorable meal.(2916 Hall, 823-6040 or 528-7506; 15501 Dallas Pkwyin Adelstein Plaza, 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2;dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11.Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario’s. Mario’s is stereotypical of fine Italian restaurants in all the best ways. Black tuxedos, white table-cloths and red furnishings lend elegance to rooms decorated with antique vases, wildlife prints and candlelight. We first sampled the sharp, locally made cheese served with bread, then moved into a well-paced meal that began with an appetizer of ciappino (an attractive ragout of crab, scallops and mussels in a basil-flavored tomato sauce). Mario’s pepper steak was huge and tender, but an order of scaloppine con car-ciofi (veal scallops sautéed with artichoke hearts and mushrooms) was less exciting than we had hoped. Although the veal was good, the sauce and artichoke hearts lacked lilt. Mario’s has good desserts and prompt service, but the dish we’ll remember is the fettuccine- it’s perfect. (Oak Lawn at Blackburn in Turtle Creek Village. Suite 135 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6 11 pm Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)

Now That’s Italian. For starters, we enjoyed creamy onion soup, greaseless beer-batter fried mushrooms and polenta (a concoction made from deep-fried corn-meal served with lots of tomatoey marinara sauce). Our main courses were a whole-wheat pizza for one, vegetarian lasagna. a meatball sandwich and a heaping plate from the soup-and-salad bar. As toppings for the pizza, we chose artichoke hearts and Italian sausage; the combination was wonderful, but the flavor was almost overwhelmed by the hot mozzarella. Overall, Now That’s Italian is promising, but on a return visit, service was careless. We especially like the patio dining and the logo of the Dallas skyline, which includes the leaning tower of Reunion. (3851 Cedar Springs. 522-2340. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 5 pm-mid-night: Sat & Sun noon-midnight. MC. V. AS. $$)

P.J.’s Ristorante. Once inside P.J.’s (located in an undistinguished strip shopping center near Mockingbird and Central), you’ll find yourself in an intimate, tidy, dimly lit brick dining room complete with piped-in Italian accordion music and faux vineyard lattice work on the ceilings. We started with an antipasto plate that we could have gone without; for $3 50, it was little more than a deluxe salad with an artichoke heart and a deviled egg. But the pasta Giovanni drew raves and is perfect for those who have trouble deciding what to eat: Its a heaping platter of ravioli, manicotti, spaghetti, meat-balls, sausage and the cheesiest, tastiest lasagna we’ve had in a while. The tomato sauce that lopped every-tfiing was truly exemplary – thick, garlicky and perfectly spiced. If you can eat any more after entrees like these, try either the cappuccino pie or the cheesecake with a cup of P.J.’s coffee. (5410 E Mockingbird- 824-1490. Daily: 5:30-10:30 pm or. on weekends, as late as necessary. V. AE. $$)



Prego Pasta House. As can be determined after a glance at the menu, the owner of Prego (Joe Barraco) is also the manager of Campisi’s. And in many cases, we found the food at Prego to be similar to Campisi’s but the atmosphere and service to be generally better. For appetizers, the artichoke hearts and scampi were passable, although a bit blah (not much garlic or imagination), but the fried provolone was excellent. As a general rule, order the authentic Italian specialties; they’re all top-notch. The veal parmigiana is excellent. as is the lasagna The pizza is the same type as Cam-pisi’s. with a thin, tasty crust and oodles of rich, thick Italian topping. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Sun noon-11 pm MC, V. AE. $$)

Ristorante La Bella. Our first visit to La Bella convinced us that an interesting new Italian restaurant hadfinally come to a Far North Dallas neighborhood sorely in need of a good place to dine. Especially appealing was the specialty, frutta di Adriatoci-a lightlycooked seafood stew containing fresh mussels, clams,shrimp and fish in a garlicky wine broth. The otherseafood dishes, such as the shrimp cooked with olivesand mushrooms, were also memorable. But none of thechicken or veal dishes we’ve tried have measured upto the seafood. (6757 Arapaho. 991-2828. Mon-Fri11:30am-11 pm, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun 11 am-10pm. MC,V, AE. $$)

Villa Bugatti. The hustle and bustle and the occasionally poor service at the original Bugatti restaurant is, happily, not characteristic of the new Bugatti near the Quadrangle. At the old Bugatti, the tortellini was unbeatable, and – hallelujah! – it is similarly creamy and rich at Villa Bugatti. A special lobster and veal combination we tried highlighted each flavor unusually well; the lobster was covered with a light tomato sauce. We did find a few disappointments, but, all in all, in the areas where the first Bugatti falls short – in atmosphere and in service- the new Bugatti, in a quiet, tree-shaded two-story house, shines. (2710 Boll. 824-2470. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-10:30. All credit cards. Reservations. $$$)



MEXICAN



Café Cancun. We’ve always said “Viva!’ to civilized Mexican restaurants, but Cafe Cancun is so enjoyable it makes you wonder if the chef really knows his tortillas. Can you imagine Joe T. escorting you to the oak-and-fern bar. plying you with margantas and letting you order black bean nachos while you wait? All this, mind you, accompanied by lively strains of “Quando Caliente El Sol.’ But despite our predilection for luxury, we’ve also maintained since day uno that this is the best Mexico City-style food in town. The tacos al carbon are consistently the best we’ve had anywhere. The nachos, which combine black beans with jalapenos, guaca-mole, sour cream and Chihuahua cheese, are out of this world. Those hopelessly addicted to Tex-Mex can indulge in several decent combination plates, but the chiles rellenos, the crisp sautéed red snapper and anything served with mole sauce are the dishes that keep people who like the real thing coming back for more. (ParK Lane at Central Expwy in Caruth Plaza, 369-3712; 4131 Lomo Alto, 559-4011; 650 N Pearl in Plaza of the Americas. 969-0244. Mon-Thur 11-11; Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-10 pm at Caruth Plaza and Lomo Alto; Mon-Fri 11 am-7 pm at Plaza of the Americas. MC. V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS



La Calle Doce. Scholars of sleaze who postulate that food quality in a Mexican restaurant varies inversely with the fanciness of the environs have a lot to learn from La Calle Dcce, This sunny Oak Cliff restaurant has hardwood floors, fresh white linen tablecloths and the first guitar-strumming troubadour we’ve ever enjoyed. All the standard combinations are offered at budget prices, and the menu also offers a selection of gourmet seafood specialties (“fresh from the Trinity”) ranging from flounder and frog legs to Pescado Entero Empan-izado (whole catfish, breaded and fried). The guaca-mole is outstanding, and the chile rellenos remain the best we’ve tasted (although they’re pretty hot for unsuspecting gringos), Carnitas tampiquenas (strips of beef cooked in beer) are appealing, especially when rolled in a complimentary hot flour tortilla. (415 12th St. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am- 10pm, Sat 11 30 am-10 pm, Sun 11:30 am-1 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



Café Rincón. This breezy Mexican restaurant is sev eral cuts above what we’ve grown to expect from establishments on Harry Hines. The menu includes all the Tex-Mex you could want, as well as some fancier fish and steak offerings. The Camarones Bohemia (beer-batter shrimp) that we sampled were large and tasty (owner John Rincón says that if you’re on a diet, his father- the chef- can fry the shrimp in Miller Lite). And the tortilla soup is an edible grab bag of goodies. (2818 Harry Hines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)

Casa Rosa. This is Tex-Mex a la Highland Park, with standard dishes (fresh chips, hot hot sauce and tender, steaming flour tortillas) as well as more sophisticated fare. Casa Rosa may have the looks and clamor of an El Chico, but with an Inwood Village address it has to be better in order to survive. Although we’ll skip the old-fashioned tacos on our next visit (they tasted of old-fashioned grease), the rice, enchiladas, nachos topped with sour cream and the superior guacamole redeemed the meal. (Inwood at Lovers Lane in Inwood Village. Suite 165. 350-5227. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11; Sat & Sun noon-10. All credit cards. $$)

Chiquita. This isn’t a Tex-Mex, pinata-strung establishment, but there are enough clothless tables around to make those of us who enjoy that type of place feel at home. We began our meal with the ironclad test: nachos, the bean and cheese variety. We argued over their quality; our more critical companions called them “workmanlike and plodding.’ They lacked, our friends said, the pizazz that would have made them worthy of their title. We were of one mind, however, about the entrees – all were hot and fresh and packed with high-quality beef and chicken. The polio en crema (strips of chicken flavored with sour cream and walnuts) and a pounded chicken dish broiled over a hickory fire were both unusual and good, but a puff taco was tasteless and stale. We also had some tangy tortilla soup, some well-spiced guacamole and some crisp zucchini with just the right touch of paprika. (3870 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V, AE $$)

Genaro’s Tropical. Welcome to a triple-treat tropical feast for the eye, the ear and, of course, the palate. Enjoy rare pre-Castro Cuban and Brazilian music by the likes of Carmen Miranda and Yma Sumac, but don’t let the aesthetic thrill of Genaro’s overshadow the surprising menu, which proves that Dallas has only one showcase for genuine tropical cuisine. Of the many fine seafood creations, pez espada (swordfish kebab) deserves special mention. The charcoal-broiled cuts of fish are wrapped in spinach leaves, and the meat’s fine piquancy contrasts nicely with the sautéed spinach and carrots. Also droolworthy are the torta del mar (an open-faced sandwich of crab meal and red snapper) and the enchiladas Genaro, filled with crab and snapper and covered with sour cream and tomatilla sauce. (5815 Live Oak at Skillman. 827-9590. Mon-Fri 11 -11, Sat 11 arn-midnight, Sun 11 am-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)



D REVISITS



Rosita’s. Rosita’s gets better every time we visit. In the past, the tortillas were tough, and the hot sauce was less than dynamic, but our recent visit provided a top-notch Tex-Mex meal. Portions are huge, and lunch costs less than $4. Rosita has breakfast on the grill every morning by 7 o’clock and a list of dinner specials that includes favorites in every combination. You can’t beat the price of her corn tortillas (free on request) or flour tortillas (two for 25 cents), and you shouldn’t pass on the sopapillas, either. (4906 Maple. 521-4741. Mon 7 am-2:30 pm, Tue-Fri 7 am-10 pm. Sat & Sun 9 am-10 pm. MC, V. AE. $)





D REVISITS



Raphael’s. For as long as we can remember, we’ve been struck by frequent cravings for Raphael’s Tex-Mex. The consistently fresh, light chips, the flavorful, tomatoey hot sauce and the icy, potent machine-made margaritas kept us coming back for more. On our recent visit, those basics were still as good as we remembered, but some of the entrees weren’t up to Raphael’s usual par The meager serving of guacamole was rather bland and lacked smoothness, and the enchiladas were only average. Even Raphael’s unique puff taco was not as fresh and tasty as we remembered. Decorating improvements at the original Raphael’s on McKinney such as a huge, colorful mural have made the warm atmosphere more attractive. We hope the food will improve as well. (3701 McKinney, 521-9640; 6782 Greenville. 692-8431. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-10:30 pm at McKinney location; Mon- Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat noon-11 pm at Greenville location. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, AE, CB. $$)



Herrera. Is any Mexican food really worth a long wait for a crowded table in a rickety lean-to when you even have to bring your own beer? There are other places in the neighborhood that can match Herrera’s enchiladas, tacos and beans- good as they are. But the thick, pancake-shaped flour tortillas cranked out by hand are unique, as are the stew-meat burritos made from them. And then there’s the feeling of satisfaction at being at the classic Dallas dive. The new Denton Drive location still looks like the striptease joint it used to be. The food is fine-but it just doesn’t seem like Herrera. (5427 Den-ton Drive, 630-2599; 3902 Maple, 526-9427. Daily 11 am-10 pm; all credit cards at Denton Drive location. Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pm; closed Tue; no credit cards at Maple location. $)



D REVISITS



Guadalajara. Okay, we confess. We revisited this familiar hole in the wall expecting a free ride. We planned to scarf up excellent Tex-Mex, make the usual disclaimer about the rather run-down location and burp all the way back to the office. Another day, another Dos Equis. Were we ever wrong! Amazingly, Guadalajara has backslid quite a bit. First, the service was not mildly deficient, not bad, but awful. We received menus without prices and without explanation, as if we should have known that all the lunch entrées are the same price. Lacking bilingual skills, we had trouble getting menus with prices. We were given chips and hot sauce but no napkins. Finally, napkins and silver arrived for half of our party; five minutes later, the rest of us were noticed. Before ordering, we asked which credit cards were accepted. Our answer: “Okay.” When our very hot plates arrived, no warning was given, and one hapless diner singed his hand. But, we told ourselves, this is Guadalajara; surely the food would redeem this disaster. It did, but only in part. The chicken enchiladas with sour cream were as flavorful as ever, and the flour tortillas are still the best in the city. But the meat in the bur-rito was barely cooked and of a suspicious hue, and the rice was only so-so. We hope for better things on our next visit – if there is one. (3308 Ross at Hall. 823-9340. Tue-Fri 11 am-4 am, Sat & Sun 9 am-4 am. Closed Mon. MC, V. $)



Javier’s. Don’t visit this “gourmet Mexican” restaurant when you’re in the mood for Tex-Mex; you’ll leave with an aching in your heart for retried beans and rice. But the alternatives here are undoubtedly a better choice. You’ll leave Javier’s filled with delicious beef, seafood or chicken dishes, an actual vegetable and desserts other than pralines. The tortilla soup is crowded with cheese, avocado slabs and smooth pasilla chiles. The nachos are fine but not too unusual, since black beans and white cheese have caught on even in Tex-Mex hot spots. Javier’s is in the big leagues for what it does to shrimp; they’re big and meaty and sautéed in a diablo sauce (a blend of coffee, orange juice and spices). The mushroom crìpes served with corazon de filete is another tasty entrée. For dessert, you can’t avoid the cajeta sauce; it comes on the cheesecake and on the crìpes flambé and is dished over the ice cream. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun- Thur 5:30- 10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)



Joe T. Garcia’s. The North Dallas branch of the famous Fort Worth Mexican food institution is capable of turning out dishes that match the quality of the original. The tacos are custom-fried with the meat inside them, not crammed into pre-formed shells. The chiles rellenos with their savory stuffing are probably the best in Dallas. Even the retried beans are outstanding: stiff in texture and bold in flavor. But so much can go wrong at Joe T.’s Dallas location that you may not want to stay around to taste the food. On one recent visit, the nachos had such strong-smelling cheese that we were put off, and our complaints went unheeded. On the next visit, the tostadas reeked of stale oil. There are other telltale signs of the troubles that go along with a family-run restaurant trying to turn itself into a chain, like the menus that claim not to be menus (because the original place never had one). We hope Joe T. will pull his act together because the food can be quite good. In the meantime, be careful. (4440 Belt Line. 458-7373. Mon-Sat 11 am-3 pm & 5-11 pm, Sun 4-10:30 pm. MC, V. AE. $$)

Mario & Alberto. The giant paper flowers everywhereand walls laden with candles make this northern outpost of Chiquita a perfect place for a fiesta – whether aromantic night out or a kid’s birthday party. Of the olderspecialties, our favorites have always been the steaksspiked with garlic and peppers and the simple char-broiled chicken breasts. Of the recent additions, we enjoyed the carnitas of pork in an achiote sauce and thepolio en adobo (breast of chicken cut into bite-sizedchunks and doused in red chili sauce). We have neverhad good luck with the fish or shrimp offerings, and theTex-Mex plates are lures for greenhorn gringos whodon’t know any better. The only trouble with Mario &Alberto is that everybody in North Dallas seems to knowabout it, so get there early if you don’t want to wait. (LBJFrwy at Preston in Preston Valley Shopping Center,Suite 425. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri& Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)

Moctezuma’s. Try something other than the usual Tex-Mex dishes when visiting this attractive dinner stop; the chicken and fish “especiales” offer a nice getaway. We especially enjoyed the Pechuga a la Parrilla, a boned, very tender breast of chicken grilled in white wine and butter sauce, and the Enchiladas de Polio, sour cream chicken enchiladas served with rice and beans. The service here is very attentive, and the margaritas are worth an honorable mention. (3202 McKinney. 526-1197. Sun- Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat full menu until 11:30 pm; appetizers until 12:30am. Reservations for parties of six or more. All credit cards. $$)



FAR EA8T



Bamboo Pavilion. We began a delightful meal with stir-fried minced chicken sautéed with black mushrooms and the freshest, crispiest water chestnuts everto grace a wok. Served with two pancakes and rolledfor us by our waitress, the result was something like anOriental burrito and was simply delicious. Panda’sPrawns sounded too sweet (the menu describes themas Gulf shrimp marinated in wine and honey and deep-fried), but they were crunchy and left us feeling likeanother Bamboo chefs suggestion: a Happy Family.Bamboo does a good job of spicing its dishes per request; the obvious key to its excellence is freshnessdown to every detail. (Belt Line at Coit in PromenadeCenter, Suite 1790, Richardson. 6800599, Mon-Fri11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat & Sun noon- 10:30 pm. MC, V,AE. DC. $$)

China Inn. You can’t always judge a Chinese restaurant by its pu pu platter. Our assortment of appetizers was definitely a mixed bag, with the fried won ton dry and disappointing and the barbecued spare ribs very spare indeed. The puffed shrimp, however, were large and toothsome. The quality of the entrees, we’re happy to say, was much more consistent than on our last visit. The sauce on the sweet and sour pork no longer leans toward cloying sweetness, and the egg rolls contain far more ingredients. But some things don’t need to change: We’ve never had a chicken dish here that was not ambrosial. Try almond chicken or kung bo gai ding (tender chicken strips stir-fried with Chinese greens and topped with roasted peanuts in a fragrant. hot pepper sauce). Food this good shows that there’s plenty of life yet in old-fashioned Cantonese-style cooking. (6521 E Northwest Hwy. 369-7733. Sun-Thur 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am. All major credit cards. $)



D REVISITS



Fangti China 1. First impressions do count, and we knew when we saw the gold wallpaper with black velveteen bamboo stems and the red neon signs in the window that dining at Fangti was going to be fun. We soon discovered that it’s a delectable experience as well. The pu pu tray, a mouthwatering medley of fantail shrimp, an egg roll, barbecued beef, fried won ton and shrimp toast, was an inspiring beginning, and the differing tastes and textures somewhat satisfied our desire to sample everything on the menu. The entrees we finally chose included moo-shu chicken, a delightful variation of the standard pork dish, complete with pancakes. Shrimp with peanuts in hot sauce was a crunchy and delicious dish, but keep this in mind: When they say “hot.” they mean hot. it’s wise to follow the menu suggestion and specify the way you like your dishes spiced. The clientele is wonderfully diverse (perhaps partly due to Fangti’s hours – it’s open until 6 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights); the service, although impeccably polite, is leisurely. (6752 Shady Brook, in the Twin Bridge Shopping Center. Mon- Thur 11:30 arn-4 am. Fri 11:30 am-6 am. Sat 5 pm-6 am, Sun 5 pm-4 am. 987-3877. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



Fong Lin. You won’t be bombarded by glowing paper lanterns hung from the ceiling or red-and-black-flocked wallpaper here, but neither will you encounter spacious rooms filled with Ming vases. In fact, you probably wont notice much about the surroundings at Fong Lin; they’re decidedly ordinary. But the same cannot be said of the food. We could have ended our meal happily after sampling the huge pu pu tray, but we settled on orange beef (sliced tenderloin sautéed in orange peel with sesame seeds) and chicken and shrimp Hunan-style (diced chicken and shrimp sautéed with vegetables in a Hunan sauce). We also tried the moo shu pork, a fine interpretation of another Oriental standard. (8440 Abrams, Suite 408. 343-4514. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm,Fri 11-11, Sat 4:30-11 pm, Sun noon-10 pm. MC. V. AE. $$)



D REVISITS



The Forbidden City. Is The Forbidden City the most overrated Chinese restaurant in town? We’ve never had a really bad dish here, mind you. although we could complain that our service has been a bit offhand. But we have never had a really exciting dish, either. OurHunan-style smoked ham had a lavish quantity of meat,but the sauce had little flavor other than salt. TheMongolian beet was similarly bland. If fresh, dependable but ultimately boring Chinese food satisfies you,you may be happier at The Forbidden City than wewere. (5290 Belt Line. Suite 144. 960-2999. Mon-Thur11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Fujl-Ya. This little Japanese inn is tucked into a row of fast-food places just north of LBJ Freeway. The atmosphere may not be much better than in the adjacent Ar-by’s. but the food certainly is. There are the standard Japanese items like shrimp tempura and teriyaki chicken, available separately or in various combinations and cooked reliably. You can also find more unusual specialties like tonkatsu. the pork cutlet that is Japan’s answer to chicken-fried steak. And on Thursday and Friday evenings, Fuji-Ya serves excellent sushi – fresh fish sliced and served up so handsomely on little pillows of flavored rice that you wont even notice that it’s raw. At $12. the price of the sushi is a bit steep, but the rest of the menu is quite reasonable. (13050 Coit. 690-8396. Tue-Sat11 am-10 pm; Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon. MC,V, AE. $$)

Hunan Imperial. So many good neighborhood Chinese restaurants have opened in Dallas during the last few years that it takes something special to lure us far from home. Hunan Imperial is a notch above most of the better neighborhood places. The chef knows how to make each dish distinct: slippery, tender, tiny shrimp and nicely chewy pork in the shrimp and pork combination; a fillip of vinegar in the beef scallions. He has to have his arm twisted, though, if you are serious about having your spicy dishes really hot. Hunan Imperial may not be in the top rank of Dallas Chinese restaurants, but we’ll continue to go out of our way to get here if the best dishes, like the sautéed string beans with pork and crunchy rock salt, continue to be outstanding. (Walnut Hill at N Central Expwy in the Corner Shopping Center, Suite 742. 363-3858. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-2 am,Sun 11:30 am-11 pm.AII credit cards. $$)

Korea House. Also identified as Koryo Jung on its sign and menus, this attractive little restaurant is often overlooked by its Richardson and North Dallas neighbors. Too bad, because the appetizing Seoul food offers something for everybody. Barbecue fans will like the bulgoki (marinated and grilled beef) and kalbi gui (chewy ribs), and jalapeno buffs will go for the more incendiary kim chee (fiery pickled cabbage). There also are plenty of offbeat choices for the adventurous: The last time we visited, a Korean patron at the next tablewas feasting on a dish of mixed vegetables topped witha fried egg. The waitresses in their bright silk costumesadd a welcome exotic touch to the otherwise standardmodern surroundings. They do their best to make non-Koreans feel at home, but the service can be slow. (Coit at Belt Line in Promenade Center, Suite 610, Richardson. 231-1379. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm.MC, V, AE. $$)

New Big Wong. If you want to learn to eat like the Chinese, the New Big Wong is the place to do it. The 56 chef’s specialties contain such mysteries as beef tendon in shrimp egg sauce, intestine in black bean sauce and duck web with oyster sauce. For the squeamish, there are alternatives such as rock salt prawns, simple in seasoning and marvelously subtle in taste and texture. Some of the greatest delights are the whole fish dishes (the seafood come straight from tanks full of catfish, eel and lobster). Our Crispy Whole Fish Hunan Style had wonderfully crunchy skin, silky white flesh and an incendiary sauce. Do carefully inquire about what you are getting, though. And if a waiter tells you that you won’t like a dish, listen to him: He may be right. (2121 S Greenville. 821-4198. Daily 11 am-4 am. MC, V, AE. $$)

Peking Szechuan. Don’t let the modest looks of this place fool you (the view outside is of the Circle Bowl and Circle Inn sign) because the Oriental house specialties here are a pure delight. We especially enjoyed the Three Delicacy Flavor, which included tender and tasty chunks of shrimp, chicken and beef in Peking Sauce, surrounded by an equally tasty assortment of vegetables. Also noteworthy is the Seafood Delight, a succulent assortment of jumbo shrimp, king crab and scallops sautéed with Chinese vegetables on a sizzling platter. We were unusually impressed with the fried rice and crisp snow peas. The service is gracious but slow-paced. (2560 W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri-Sun 11:30-11:30. MC. V.AE. $$)

Plum Blossom. The cool, teal-blue surroundings here calmed our spirits, allowing us to meditate on the large statue of Buddha, the beautiful Chinese porcelains and some of the best Chinese food in Dallas. Sea scallops with straw mushrooms in a potato nest are offered as an appetizer on one of the special dinners, but you can get them a la carte if you ask. The simple, delicious ginger duck and the tender shrimp are accompanied by impeccably crisp snow peas. You can even find some unusual desserts-more rare in Chinese restaurants than Orient pearls. The fried custard with mango sauce was delightful; the fried ice cream with almonds and tangerine sauce, less so. But on the whole, our meal at the Anatole’s Plum Blossom was a little bit of nirvana. (Loews Anatole, 2201 Stemmons. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)

Rambutan’s. The new Marriott on the Parkway has defied custom by making its fancy restaurant Chinese-and laying on the atmosphere so thick it could asphyxiate you. The a la carte menu is perfunctory, and everyone is expected to order one of the prescribed dinners for two or more. Each dinner has a theme (elementary Cantonese, spicy Northern, seafood and so on), and each comes with an appetizer, a soup, three main courses and a dessert. There is no adventure here for old Chinese-food fans, though there is a certain talent in the kitchen-the standard dishes arestirred up with steady hands. (Marriott Quorum Hotel,14901 Dallas Pkwy. 661-2800. Lunch: Mon-Fri11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun- Thur 6-10:30. Fri-Sat 6-11. Allcredit cards. $$$)

Sawatdee. Barbecued beef with bamboo shoots-the sort of dish one craves after Softball practice and board meetings alike-is zingy and delicious at this Upper Greenville Thai restaurant. A meal here (which is best begun with a small, light, crisp Siamese egg roll) is a ravaging blow to the low-sodium diet but is well worth a day of the bland in repentance. Sawatdee’s fried rice is packed with pork, shrimp, egg, tomato and onion. On the whole, Sawatdee is a dependable place for an Oriental feast. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11.30-2:30, dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10:30, Fn& Sat 5-11. MC, V, AE. $$)

Szachuan Pavilion. There’s nothing particularly compelling about the atmosphere at Szechuan Pavilion, but we’ve frequently found a positive correlation between good Chinese food and shabby surroundings. The key here seems to be authentic, fresh ingredients and few gummy additives, which result in spicy dishes that are zesty and flavorful but not too hot. Two items on the menu shouldn’t be missed: the fried fantail shrimp appetizer- perfectly crisp and light and served piping hot-and the subgum deluxe lo mein, a fabulous blend of lo mein noodles, plump nuggets of seafood and stir-fried vegetables. Beyond that, we tend to rely on the chef’s suggestions, some of which (such as the Emperor’s Chicken and the hot and sour whole fish) are down-right exotic. (8409 Preston in Preston Center. 368-4303. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10 pm, Sat noon-10:30pm, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Taiwan. The new Taiwan manages to combine all the elegance of Oriental tradition with the cordial service and deft preparation of the Taiwan on Greenville, which we fell for years ago. We were delighted with the plump, lightly fried shrimp rolls and the warm, meat-stuffed turnovers (kuo-teh) that we ordered as appetizers andwith the large, hortureens of egg flower soup and hotand sour soup. Then we chose a Sizzling Iron Plate,which gave us a taste of the delciously spiced beef thatwe’d smelled since we entered the restaurant. (4980 Belt Line, 387-2333; 6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri &Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun 10 am-11pm. All credit cards. $$)



SEAFOOD



Banno Brothers. While you’re sitting at Banno’s listening to the raucous bleat of Dixieland jazz or watching an oyster shucker do his work, you can almost believe you’re in New Orleans (and you could practically drive there in the time it takes to get service at Banno’s on a busy Saturday night). But the wait is worth it. especially when endured with oysters on the half shell and the mollusk’s natural accompaniment: ice-cold beer. The broiled red snapper is buttery and nicely textured, and the crowded seafood salad makes a good meal for light eaters. The fried snapper, however, could just as well have been fried anything. The little touches are nicely done, with crunchy hush puppies (which, alas, do not come gratis) and an unusual tartar sauce with chopped onions. On the whole. Banno’s gives good weight-for the wait. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm. Sun, gone fishin’, MC, V. $$)



D REVISITS



Champagne Johnny’s. Can this be heaven? Johnny has taken care of everything, the lighting is soft; the mood, romantic, the seafood, among the best in Dallas; the service, without flaws. We started with a shrimp cocktail that was fresh, tender and meaty. The red snapper (marinated, lightly breaded and sautéed) was a definite plus But even better was the stuffed flounder, wrapped around a delicious crab meat dressing. Not only was the service first-rate, but attention was paid to every detail. (For instance, our crisp salads were served with a chilled plate and fork.) This place is well worth the trip to lower Greenville. (2905 Greenville. 823-5800. Tue-Thur 11:30 am-2 pm & 5-11:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 5 pm-2 am, Sat 5 pm-2 am, Sun 11-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)



Charley’s Seafood Grill. We have a soft spot in our hearts for Charley’s, with its high ceilings and sunny windows looking out on a rural Addison that has mostly disappeared. The food is not always inspired – the okra gumbo is as murky as the mighty Mississippi, and the boiled shrimp are bland – but the seafood is fresh andthe waiters are obliging. The char-broiled seafood isalways dependable: Our red snapper was as juicy asa well-grilled hunk of beef. And the side dishes are better than they often are at seafood places, with tastyhomemade fries to go with the fish and good home-made cheesecakes to follow. Somehow it’s a shock towalk through the door and see Prestonwood across theroad after a meal here; we always expect a saltbreeze and sailboats. (5438 Belt Line. 934-8501.Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All creditcards. $$)

Ratclitte’s. Touted as a ’San Francisco-style seafood house,” Ratcliffe’s is romantic without the formula hokeyness that so many seafood restaurants rely upon. An open kitchen and a glass case full of appetizing ocean critters greet you when you walk in. and unless you have the misfortune to be seated in the rather Wand upstairs dining room, you can enjoy your meal among beautiful antiques and pretty pastels. The seafood is reliably fresh; sauces are creative and served nouvelle-style (under, not on top of). The fried offerings come piping hot, with a perfectly textured breading and just the right amount of grease. (1901 McKinney. 748 7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS



Rocco Oyster Bar. “Shuck em if they can’t take a joke’ is the motto that Rocco waitresses wear emblazoned on their T-shirts, and with that twisted bit of humor the mood is set. This Shannon Wynne offspring is as chic as you’d expect, but here, good taste is a concomitant of the food-not just of the customers’ clothes. The Monday night all-you-can-eat catfish filets are grease-less works of wonder (available, as far as we know, nowhere else in town in such numbers for such a low price: $6.95). The Big Mix ($8.95) is mostly red beans and rice-not such a bargain. The servings of fried shrimp, oysters and scallops were miserly at best. Roc-cos menu is broad – baby eels and oysters of three different breeds command attention – but some of the more adventurous offerings are less than delicious, The huge basket of calamari (fried squid in tempura batter) became tiresome after a while; the ringlets tasted too much like tiny, deep-fried rubber bands. The ice cream drinks are a superlative way to cleanse fishiness from the palate. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Thur 11:30-11:30, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-12:30 am. MC, V, AE $$)



Seascape Inn. Bring someone who likes to talk, because the wait (up to 30 minutes for lunch, longer at dinner) is the chief drawback to this mostly superior restaurant. But once you’re ushered into the pleasant dining room, which is awash in cheerful coral and green tones, you’ll have earned the baked oysters Seascape. Served in a fondue of fresh onions and eggplant, glazed with white wine and thick mozzarella cheese, the appetizer sets high standards for the meal that follows. As for the main course, Seascape Inn does best with more exotic entrées such as linguine pescadore, served perfectly al dente with oysters, clams, mussels and whitefish in a complex wine sauce. Sadly, our fried seafood platter was salvaged only by the juicy scallops; the shrimp and oysters had been breaded long ago-or were they frozen? Unsavory options both, especially when so much else is done so well. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)

S & D Oyster Company. Newly bricked McKinney Avenue makes S&D’s stark, casual dining room feel even more like a part of New Orleans. This is fitting, since the array of seafood offered here (oysters, shrimp, fish) is fresh and authentically prepared. And S&D’s service is consistently crisp and friendly. The large crowd lingering outside the door speaks for the food’s reputation. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC. V. $$)

Turtle Cove. This airy rotunda of a restaurant looks pretty snazzy with salmon and teal fabrics against rustic dark woods; and some nights it seems as though all of Dallas has turned out to eat broiled seafood and drink interesting California wines. But after a few years of living with shrimp cooked over a mesquite wood fire, we’re beginning to think that if God had meant man to eat this way he would have put shrimp in West Texas (or mesquite in the Gulf). With too strong a dose of the smoke, shrimp can taste downright medicinal and can get all chewylike. too. Swordfish does a little better; but at $17.50 a throw, the price of a dinner can begin to climb astronomically. (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Reservations recommended MC, V, AE. $$$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Broussard’s. If you’ve been ragin’ for Cajun, seek no more. Your introduction to one of the Souths fine cuisines awaits you here. But be prepared; Cajun cooking is spicy, redolent fare that can take some getting used to. If you’re bold and impatient, plunge right in with the Sample Tray, which includes the famous gumbo, a zes-ty chicken sauce piquante, crab etoufee, jambalaya (just like the song) and red beans and rice. Taste buds awakened, move on to a seafood specialty such asboiled and barbecued shrimp or baked, crab-stuffedred snapper. Add a mug of cold beer, and let le bontemps roulez. (Belt Line at Central Expwy in RichardsonHeights Center. Suite 63. 231-9850. Mon-Thur 11 am2 pm & 5-10 pm, Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5-11 pm. Sat 5-11pm, Sun 11:30 am-9 pm. MC. V. AE. $$)



Bubba’s. You want meaty, not-too-greasy chicken with a meaningful crust. You want it quick, you don’t want to pay an arm and a thigh for it, and you don’t want dinner in a box. So you go to Bubba’s, and you’re glad. Chicken is the house specialty, and the chicken-fried steak is a large, authentic member of the genre. The dinners, all for under $5. come with a choice of two vegetables (we tried coleslaw, green beans and mashed potatoes; all were fresh and distinctive). The meals are served with two humongous rolls, and there’s honey on the table to dip em in. The room is bright and airy with splashes of gleaming chrome and a wonderful old wartime poster. The plastic dinnerware and paper plates can be unwieldy, but that’s the only flaw at Bubba’s. (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Daily 6:30 am-10 pm No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $)



D REVISITS



Celebration. For those who are hungry (and we mean hungry) and who love home cooking, Celebration is truly something to celebrate. The menu is limited (specials change daily), but all portions are as ample as if your own grandma had served ’em up herself. (You get seconds, too.) Whatever you choose, you’ll start with a large green salad and the hottest, tastiest little muffins and rolls you’ve ever had. For our main course, we selected the beef stroganoff, a satisfying dish topped with wine-flavored whole mushrooms, and the baked chicken, which was tender inside and crisp outside. Three vegetables are automatically served with each entree (choices also change daily); we had creamy, made-from-scratch mashed potatoes, sweet corn on the cob and green beans almondine. Desserts got mixed reviews: the cheesecake was fine, but the strawberry shortcake was smothered in mounds of whipped cream that tasted as if it had been blended with a box of powdered sugar Celebration’s ambiance, in a word, is brown: You won’t find any fancy-shmancy frills here. But you will find lots of hearty home cooking and some of the friendliest service around. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. All credit cards. $$)

Don’f Seafood & Steakhouse. The original Don’s is one of the most famous restaurants in Cajun country. From its home in Lafayette, it has been propagating itself all over Louisiana and then into southeastern Texas. Don’s most distant outpost has been in Dallas for nearly a year, and like all the other branches, it has its ups and downs. The thin Cajun gumbo, smoky with roux, is the real thing; so is the crispy fried catfish. The boiled shrimp and the etoufee, though, miss the mark. Maybe someday all the food here will be as good as the best already is, and we can settle back and persuade ourselves that we’re having a merry old time on the banks of the Bayou Teche. (2361 W Northwest Hwy. 350-3667. Sun-Thur 11am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Fran’s. This little café, with its shingled walls and pots of English ivy in the windows, is a homey place for lunch or dinner. We sampled a heaping vegetable plate of mashed potatoes, broccoli and green beans (the green beans were unusually good). Fran’s menu changes daily, but chicken-fried steak is a staple. Chicken and dumplings, beef tips with rice, meat loaf and beef stroganoff are other tasty regulars. And don’t miss the homemade banana pudding or the hot peach cobbler. (3005 N Hall. 741-7589. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri 5-10. Sat 5:30-10. No credit cards. $)

George Wesby’s. There are those who will cringe as they read these words and learn that their long-cherished pub has been discovered. But the secret is too great to keep: George Wesby’s, we hereby proclaim, is Dallas’ best purveyor of chicken-fried steak, thick with white gravy and accompanied by huge cottage fries. There’s hardly reason to say more, to chatter on about Wesby’s burgers, hefty salads or frosty-cold beer; the news of great chicken-fried steak is enough. (3115 Live Oak. 821-1950. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-8 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Hearthstone Manor. Believe it or not, it’s a good ideato get into your car in traffic-clogged Dallas and drivethe 30 or so minutes it will take to wind up (in hopes ofwinding down) on Main Street in Lewisville. For themost part, the food at Hearthstone is basic and wonderful. The hot, homemade bread is hard to beat, butHearthstone also serves a variety of muffins and rolls.Steamy baked potatoes in full dress and all-Americanentrees such as filet mignon, shrimp, snapper and vealmake a wholesome, memorable meal. (208 E Main,Lewisville. 221-4515. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner:Tue-Sat 5:30-10; Sun buffet brunch: 11-2. MC, V, AE,DC.$SS)

Highland Park Cafeteria. Where would you take E.T. to show him real American cooking? To HPC, of course. He’d recognize the long lines (just like those at the movies) even if he didn’t recognize the food. You could introduce him to chopped spinach salad with horseradish, definitive fried chicken or lean brisket and to every vegetable from turnips ’n’ greens to bright, crisp broccoli with hollandaise. The biscuits and corn bread, billowy meringue pies and high layer cakes might make him so heavy he couldn’t get back into his spaceship. Once he’d learned the ropes, he’d tell everybody that the original location on Cole Street still has the best food. But although the newer branch may be less consistent, it can be excellent, and the lines are a lot shorter. (4611 Cole. 526-3801; 600 Sakowitz Village on the Pkwy. 934-8025. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm; closed Sun at Cole location. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 30 pm & 5-8 pm,Sat 11 am-8 pm, Sun 11 am-2:30 pm at Sak-owitz Village location. No liquor. No credit cards. $)

Taste & Take. Mrs. Hugh Davis, owner of this cozy little diner and takeout operation on Greenville Avenue, wouldn’t admit it herself, but we suspect that her business philosophy is that people are tired of red beans and chicken-fried steak. Her homemade ham and chicken salads, four kinds of homemade breads and delicious desserts (try the apricot or raspberry squares) offer a lighter, healthier alternative to weighty midday meals. Menus change each week and vary from Cornish game hen to chicken and dumplings. Hill Country preserves, chowchow, homemade dressings, mustards and breads are available, and T&T offers gourmet takeout food, catering and free delivery for orders of $25 or more. (4509 Greenville. 691-5161. Mon-Fri 11 am-6 pm. Sat 11 am-3 pm. AE; personal checks accepted. $$)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



The Bronx. It upset us a while back to drive by The Bronx and see the redecorators at work. We were anxious to be reassured that, new cream paint and all, it was the same old Bronx. The entryway is stucco now, and a few new abstract paintings grace the walls, but the important things haven’t changed. The spiced iced tea is still refreshing, the conversation still flows easily and the omelettes (we delighted in the huge, fluffy mushroom, spinach and bacon variety) remain dependably good. The service, which in the past was an-noyingly slow, was much more efficient. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30 pm-12:30 am, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-1:30 am; Sun brunch: Sun 11-3. MC, V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS



Chip’s. This is the place for a drinking man’s (or woman’s) lunch. Coolers of beer and sangria await you just inside the front door, while a chalkboard announces beer-of-the-month specials (most of the wall decor is beer-related). But if you’re eating lunch, stick around. “The best hamburger I’ve ever had in my mouth,” mumbled one dining companion. Another praised the burger with chili, cheese and onions; appropriately gooey, it was best eaten with a fork. The grilled breast of chicken sandwich doesn’t quite match the Stoneleigh P’s version, but it preserves its taste very well despite arriving loaded’ with tomatoes, onions and mustard sans request. (4501 N Central Expwy. 526-1092. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)



Dalt’s. Dalt’s tries to reincarnate an old-fashioned soda fountain, but the Sweet Shoppes of hallowed memory were never this bustling nor this funky. Along with the ice cream floats, the bar cranks out plenty of more potent libations night and day. Prestonwood shoppers, deal-making table-hoppers and cruising teeny-boppers keep the place jam-packed. The catalog-sized menus make a good meal a matter of good luck-nobody could cook so many things equally well. But the chicken-fried steaks and salads are huge, and the burgers are meaty. And the fried ice cream sundaes, gooey with hot fudge or caramel and crunchy with nuts, make the concept of a soda parlor seem pretty nifty after all. (5100 Belt L ine in Sakowitz Village. Suite 410. 385-8606. Daily 11 am-2 am. All credit cards. $)



D DISCOVERS



Francis Slmun’s. Chic has invaded even health food restaurants, so now you can look at taupe walls, potted plants and attractive oil paintings while you eat your whole-grain breads and organic fruits and vegetables. Sunday brunch can be a somewhat ascetic experience: you can scrape your plate clean and still go home lean. One patron resembling an SMU lineman voiced concern over the size of the portions, but it’s probably good for the rest of us to enjoy the broccoli quiche, vegetable casserole, apricot mousse and carrot cake in moderation. It’s all quite tasty, but it’s still hard to forget how virtuous you feel by dining here. (6922 Snider Plaza. 368-7789. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 am-2 pm; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10 pm: brunch: Sun 11:30 am-2 pm. AE, DC. CB. $$)



Deacon’s Steak House. We’re in favor of anyone who tries his hand at a serious steak restaurant, and we think that Deacon’s may be on the right track: It’s got high-backed booths, ceiling fans and inlaid wooden tables, and the waitresses are friendly and seem legitimately Texan. The menu offers steaks of every size and cut as well as grilled onions and baked or fried potatoes. But like most Dallas steakhouses, the best thing about Deacon’s isn’t its steak; best of show goes to the raspberry and the espresso cheesecakes, which are homemade by an avowed non-Texan: a South African woman named Rene Foreman. Deacon’s has set the stage for an above-average steakhouse, and with a little more attention given to quality, it could soon give Hoffbrau a run for its money. (4820 Greenville. 361-2924. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-11 pm, Sat 4:30-11 pm. Sun 4:30-10 pm. MC, V. AE. DC. $$)



D REVISITS



Hoffbrau. Steak and Hoffbrau are synonymous. You wouldn’t dream of ordering anything else at this rustic restaurant, which is wedged between a dry cleaners and an eclectic clothing store on well-traveled Knox Street. Of course, there are other selections on the somewhat limited menu, but the only real debate is whether you want a T-bone or a shish kebab. Either way, both go perfectly with a frosty longneck. On weekend nights, be prepared to wait, longneck in hand, in Hoffbrau’s elegantly appointed waiting area (out the front door and on the curb). But as legions of Hoffbrau groupies will attest, it’s worth the wait. (3205 Knox. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Kobe Steaks. Although we Texans are proud of our beef. Japan – if Kobe Steaks is any indication – has us beat in the taste and tenderness departments. Kobesteaks are the result of a specialized cattle-raising process that includes a daily diet of beer and, yes, massage.The hibachi seafood dinner we tasted drew raves, especially for the scallops, which were large and succulent. The Kobe Special Dinner was appropriatelynamed; the beef and chicken (cooked in butter, soysauce and sesame seeds) proved exquisitely tasty. Butthe lobster could have been left off this dish; it wastough and was overpowered by the soy flavor. Mealsare prepared on a grill built into your table, and chefsperform a variety of stunning hand-acrobatics usingknives and condiment shakers. (5000 Belt Line in theQuorum, Suite600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri& Sat 5 pm-midnight. All credit cards. $$)

Purdy’s Hamburger Market and Bakery. Just one step inside the door of this Addison eatery, you’ll find a cooler full of almost any thirst-quencher you could want-from longneck beers to those great old-fash-ioned Cokes and Dr Peppers in little bottles. With itsblack-and-white tile walls, high ceiling and nostalgicrock ’n’ roll tunes, this place will take you back to the Fifties. And Purdy’s huge, fresh burgers, served on atoasted homemade bun and dressed as you like ’em atthe produce bar, will remind you of the burgers youloved back then. The (ranch fries (served in generousportions) are crisp and perfectly seasoned. If you’re stillhungry, pick up a chocolate chip cookie at the bakeryon your way out. (4812 Belt Line in the Quorum.960-2494. Mon-Fri 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight,Sun 11 am-10 pm. MC, V. $)

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. This is a place for serious beef eaters. No frills, no gimmicks, no daily specials -just corn-fed, never-frozen, aged prime beef, delivered fresh from the Midwest and cut on the premises. And although the whole concept seems a natural for Texas, the restaurant is actually part of a franchise that started in New Orleans. Seven different cuts of beef are offered at the Dallas restaurant, with a la carte side dishes including broccoli, cauliflower, spinach or potatoes au gratin. The decor is all-business, with the main attraction being a large board that delivers stock quotes by day and sports updates by night. Fittingly, the prices go right along with big-business expense accounts. (6940 Greenville. 691-6940. Mon-Fri 11:30-11:30. Sat & Sun 5-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)

Frank Tolbert’s Texas Chili Parlor. Frank X Tolberf’s chili shrine needs reviews like Dallas needs more Yankees, but it never hurts to be reminded that, as always, Tolbert’s serves the finest “native Texas foods” in the city. The Texas red chili is a civic treasure, the “mystical ingredients” of which must have been supplied by the cowboy-hatted gods themselves. Ditto for the nacho de polio (chicken nachos served on fried flour tortillas); these nachos can compete with any south of the Red River. We’ve sampled most of the menu and have nothing but contented sighs for the Boquillas Bur-rito. a divine mix of Texas red, lettuce and onions wrapped in large flour tortillas and soaked in chili con queso. For even bigger appetites, there’s the Pot Cluck burrito, a gargantuan affair stuffed with spicy chicken and layered with thick, melted cheese. (4544 McKin-nay. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11. Fri & Sat 11 am-mid-night, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V. AE $)

Wonderful World of Cooking. This rather plain dining room is a mecca for those who crave light, healthy lunches. We tried some chicken broccoli crapes in a light wine sauce and the ever-popular green enchiladas (which could have stood a bit more chicken and less sour cream and cheese). The chicken and broccoli dieter’s delight was too watery, but the Wonderful World’s salad plate (with spinach, chicken with walnuts and fresh fruit salads) was delightful, especially with the addition of the lemon-nut and cream cheese finger sandwiches. The fudge pecan pie and the Italian cream pie, both served hot, are out of this world. (5007 W Lovers Lane, 358-3345; 13410-G Preston, 386-8620; 6023 Sherry Lane, 750-0382; 621 Preston Royal Village, 739-4803; 208 Mandalay Canal, Irving, 556-2525; 602 Plymouth Park Shopping Center. 253-0666; 1305 AvenueK. Piano, 423-8815. Mon-Fri 9:30 am-6 pm, Sat 9:30 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3. Catering and takeout available. No credit cards. $)



MID-CITIES RESTAURANTS



Emiliano’s. This is the first local branch of an Arizona Mexican-food chain, and it proves that Tex-Mex is not the only hybrid cuisine that has grown up north of the border. Emiliano’s long menu includes a number of dishes seldom found around here, such as cabrito (young goat that’s been parboiled and then roasted-ifs tender and mild-tasting) and crab meat burritos. We can’t recall another Mexican place with a salad bar, either – here, in addition to the greens and veggies, you can get chili con queso, a rather watery guacamole and a pico de gallo that will burn your tongue off. (1212 N Collins, Arlington. (817) 277-9163. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC,V,AE, $$)

Qaylen’s Bar-B-Q. Eat here in good-ol’-boy splendor among a forest of antlers and stuffed deer’s heads. The good ol’ boys get stuffed, too, mainly on some of the best barbecued ribs in North Texas. The french fries are also outstanding. And since Arlington is wet, the beef and fixin’s can be washed down with a cold beer. (826 N Collins, Arlington. (817) 277-1945. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. No credit cards. $)

Man Wah. This Arlington Chinese restaurant offers what is surely the most elaborate appetizer tray in the metroplex. In addition to the standard egg rolls, shrimp and spareribs, it includes an unusual sort of Chinese dumpling, chicken wrapped in foil and a skewer of good-sized beef chunks and pineapple. If your appetite holds up past the appetizer, Mah Wah does a decent job with the standard Chinese menu. (1725 East Division, Arlington. (817) 277-8192. Sun-Thur 11 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. For a real slice of Texas barbecue, the place to go-as far as most residents of Fort Worth are concerned – is still Angelo’s. As with most respectable barbecue joints, the drawing card here is the food and drink, not the atmosphere or service (both of which are carefully disguised at Angelo’s). If you don’t watch your step, you may bump into a grizzly bear modeling an Angelo’s T-shirt or have a cold beer spilled down your back by a diner who tripped while walking down the slanting concrete floor into the dining area. You order cafeteria-style from a menu above the counter. A paper plate is heaped with a choice of ribs (served after 5 pm only) or barbecued beef, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. A large, icy beer is just the thing to top it all off. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

Calhoun Street Oyster Bar. Within easy walking distance from the Tarrant County Convention Center and Theatre, this New Orleans-style restaurant is an ideal spot to grab a bite to eat before a play or concert. As the name implies, oysters are the featured fare, but a blackboard menu (offering fresh fish such as New England scrod and Gulf pompano) changes daily. The warehouselike interior of concrete and painted brick is reminiscent of Dallas’ S & D Oyster Company. Service is prompt and attentive here, a definite plus if you’re in a hurry to catch an early show. (210 Eighth Street at Calhoun. (817)332-5932. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 5-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS



Crystal Cactus Restaurant. Hotels are notorious for housing mediocre restaurants with overly ambitious prices, so it’s refreshing to find a hotel restaurant that strives as hard as this one. Instead of the customary bread basket, we received thin slices of baked potato skins sprinkled with Parmesan and slipped between slices of piping hot garlic bread. An unusual appetizer of escargot came wrapped in a crispy pastry and dunked in a creamy lemon-butter sauce; it was accompanied by plump, juicy oysters Rockefeller. The chicken Oscar was expertly prepared with a light hollandaise sauce and scampi covering lightly breaded chicken breasts. The dessert tray held huge slices of Sacher torte, the pure chocolate confection made famous by Vienna’s Sacher Hotel. Coffee and hot tea were served with a condiment tray containing real whipped cream, chocolate shavings and orange rind slivers. Even the presentation of the check-often a cumbersome task after even the most pleasant dinner-was done with flair: The bill was presented with chocolate-covered strawberries atop a steaming dish of dry ice. Utterly content, we sauntered from the hotel and were delighted to find a surrey coach waiting to take us on a midnight ride around downtown Fort Worth. (Hyatt Regency Hotel, Eighth & Commerce, (817)870-1234. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm & 6-11 pm, Sat 6-11 pm, Sun 10:30 am-2:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)



D REVISITS



Szechuan. Although our first experience didn’t send us off glad of heart (just full of heartburn), a second try at Fort Worth’s best Chinese restaurant proved that you should always listen to your waiter. If he tells you that he likes a particular dish but that it’s hot and spicy, believe him. The chef here has an authentically heavy hand with the hot peppers. Once we learned our lesson and steered clear of the ominous starred offerings, we were delighted with pleasing portions of pork with garlic (spicy, but not overwhelming), tangy beef with green pepper and diced chicken with almonds. (5712 Locke off Camp Bowie. (817) 738-7300. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Cattlemen’s Steak House. The secret of getting into this legendary steakhouse on weekends is to arrive before the crowds start descending. This means 5:30 or 6 pm. That may be a bit too early for some people, but otherwise the wait sometimes exceeds an hour. The steaks are, indeed, worth waiting for: huge, tender and cooked as ordered. This is heartland food. Don’t look for any fancy names or mushrooms and shallots swimming in béarnaise sauce; just sit back and enjoy classic meat and potatoes. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30 pm. Sat 4:30-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)



D DISCOVERS



Royal Thai. If you go by the menu, Authentic Thai Food looks a lot like Authentic Chinese Food, but when the portions are large and the service amiable, who’s going to quibble? This Oriental shrine is about as common on the dive-littered Lancaster strip as a Church’s Fried Chicken takeout is in Bangkok, but it does prove that there’s room for everybody. Our waitress told us that Thai food is considered spicier than Chinese fare, but we found our pu pu tray, Thai combination plate and Royal Thai Chicken to be seasoned with a light touch. (5700 E Lancaster. (817) 457-8865. Sun-Thur 11 am-2:30 pm & 4:30-10 pm. Fri 11 am-2:30 pm & 4 30-11 pm. Sat 4-11 pm MC. V. AE. $$)



Hedary’s Lebanese Reataurant. Family-owned Hedary’s makes a great neighborhood restaurant; it’s the type of place that’s perfect for quick meals out or for a bite to eat before a show. Prices are reasonable, the service is quick and efficient, and the food – well, what can we say about maza. lahm mishwi or falafil, except that they are as fascinating as they sound. For starters, try the maza, a type of salad smorgasbord (The menu explains that the Lebanese eat small servings of several salads.) For a main course, you cant go wrong with the lahm mishwi (large rib-eye steak chunks skewered with tomatoes and onions and wrapped in the steaming folds of Lebanese yeast bread). For something with more bite, try the falafil. deep-fried balls of spiced gar-banzo beans ground with onion, coriander and garlic. (3308 Fairfield in Ridglea Center. (817) 731-6961. Tue-Thur 5-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm. Closed Mon No reservations. All credit cards. $$)



Kincaid’s. Whoever said that a hamburger is a hamburger is a hamburger? It just ain’t so. One visit to Kin-caid’s and you’ll consider yourself a connoisseur of ground beef. In this old-fashioned grocery store, hamburgers are made the old-fashioned way-and that means lots of onions, pickles, cheese and grease. You’ll need both hands to eat one of Kincaid’s burgers: one to hold the burger, the other to keep the fixin’s from spilling out all over the wooden luncheonette counters that cover the shelves of groceries. There are other selections from the grill, but we stick to the basic hamburger and have never been disappointed. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:15 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

La Cafe Bowie. It’s not often that we have a meal that we rave about for weeks after the occasion, but we did on our last visit to Le Cafe Bowie. The Veal Bowie (milk-fed veal smothered in a hollandaise sauce with shrimp and artichokes) was so tender that we could slice it with a fork. We were likewise impressed with the tenderness of the succulent Steak Louis XV. The accompanying vegetables were equally well-prepared, and our meal, overall, was one of the most enjoyable we’ve had in Fort Worth. (4930 Camp Bowie. (817) 735-1521. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm; Sun brunch: noon-2. MC, V, AE; personal checks accepted. $$$)

Mawey’s. There are legions of Fort Worth residents (native and transplanted) who swear allegiance to this family-owned chicken-fried steakhouse. There’s nothing fancy here, just pure, down-home cookin’. The chicken-fried steaks are served on plastic plates, coffee is served in plastic cups, and diners are seated on vinyl chairs. But plastics aside, the food is better than average (and the portions are larger, too). The chicken-fried steak is exactly that: crispy-fried – not cloaked in the soggy batter that we’ve encountered at less worthy establishments. All chicken-fried steak dinners come with home-cooked vegetables and rolls. All in all, Massey’s makes for a hearty breakfast, lunch or dinner. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817) 924-8242. Daily 8 am-10 pm. MC, V. $)

Neiman-Marcus Red River Saloon. Located smack in the heart of the budding Sundance Square renovation area in the middle of downtown Fort Worth, the saloon is a great place to stop off for a beer and a platter of nachos during a shopping spree or after work. The nachos are loaded, and if you look closely, you’ll be amused to see that the chips are molded in the shape of Texas. The Western-style menu is clever; try the Texas Crìpes, six-inch flour tortillas filled with Monterey Jack, cheddar and onions and topped with what the saloon calls the “world’s richest chili.” (115 W Second in Sundance Square. (817)8 70-2502. Mon- Thur 11 am-8 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Neiman-Marcus credit card only. $)

The Original Mexican Food Eats Cafe. Legend has it that this is the first Mexican food restaurant in Fort Worth (hence its name); it’s certainly one of the most popular ones. On a recent Saturday night, we faced a wait of more than half an hour for a table, but our time was well spent. Our waitress was unfailingly pleasant and attentive and kept a full container of corn tortillas on our table. Specialties include the Roosevelt plate, a tasty combo that includes a taco, enchilada and chalupa. We found the chicken enchiladas to be among the best we’ve ever sampled, and the margaritas are huge. (4713 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-6226. Sun-Thur 11 am-9:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Tue. All credit cards. $)

Ristorante Lombardi. Old-world charm meets you at the door of the new Fort Worth Lombardi’s in Sundance Square. Inside, the aroma of pasta and sautéed seafood mingles with the scurry of bustling waiters. For a main course, we sampled the pesce spada griglia (grilled swordfish marinated with Italian herbs) and scallopine di vitello belinda (veal scaloppine sautéed with brandy and mushrooms in a cream sauce). Both dishes were expertly prepared; the large cut of sword-fish was tender, and the veal was smothered in a not-too-rich sauce that was entirely satisfying. (300 Main in Sundance Square. (817) 877-1729. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations. $$$)

Soaps. Housed in a restored historical building in the shadows of towering skyscrapers, this new restaurant in the Sundance Square district may be just what the doctor ordered for the nighttime doldrums of downtown Fort Worth. Beer lovers will delight in finding the Czechoslovakian Pilsner Urquell and Norwegian Ringes on the extensive beer menu. The dinner menu sticks mainly to burgers, chicken and steak, but the appetizer list is varied, with such unusual items as nacho nuggets and red beans with corn bread. (111 East Fourth at Commerce. (817) 332-3335. Mon-Fri 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sat & Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)

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