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DINING NEW ARRIVALS

Cho Cho, sole, sambal vlek and steak Diane
By D Magazine |

Sate House. We’ll give you three guesses what this restaurant means when it advertises “Indonesian Home Cooking.” If one of your guesses was “an intriguing mixture of Chinese and Dutch cuisine that takes the shape of everything from fried chicken to barbecued beef,” you’re brighter than we thought and absolutely right. Sate (that’s pronounced sah-tay) House is Dallas’ first restaurant of that ethnic category and it is, in a word, delightful. It’s another of the new, small, daintily decorated, family-owned restaurants popping up in droves between laundromats and 7-Elev-ens. Sate’s menu includes four dinner choices, two salads, a soup and some side dishes that, as far as we’re concerned, are essential to the Indonesian dining experience. One is a simple, 30-cent bowl of steamed rice we purchased simply because it cost 30 cents. The other, risolles, costs a little more (75 cents), but it’s one of the best parts of the meal. The egg roll-like tidbits are made of ragu, chicken and carrots and have a cheesy taste. Four or five risolles would make a wonderful meal, but then you’d miss the rest of the adventure. Most Indonesian food is prepared in a rather unspectacular manner -the chicken, beef or pork is usually barbecued or fried. But coconut milk and peanut sauces make the difference in taste; while the appearance may be somewhat like the Ethiopian food we tried at two Dallas restaurants last fall, the taste is less overwhelming and a little more pleasant. Nasi Rames Special is Sate’s version of the combination platter. It’s a good introduction to dishes such as ayam panggang Priangan, sate manis and sambal ulek. And don’t worry-they’re all defined on the menu’s back page. (12125 Abrams at LBJ Frwy., Suite 108. 680-2803. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10; Sunday brunch: 11-2. MC, V, AE. $)

Café Capri. If, by some stroke of fate, we found ourselves stationed in Waukegan, Illinois, with ferocious cravings for an elegant continental meal, we might have to accept whatever Waukegan had to offer. But this isn’t Waukegan. Dallas diners can pick and choose among scores of glitzy continental restaurants that may be tiresomely similar but are at least of moderate quality or they don’t survive. Cafe Capri is another of the Old World-charming, standardly continental new kids in town. Its parking lot is filled with expensive cars, its coat room overflows with expensive fur coats and its diners leave filled with high quality cuts of beef, veal, fish or fowl. But Cafe Capri is better than most newcomers of its genre. The tables are relatively close together, but somehow other conversations, kitchen and cappuccino machine noises aren’t audible. We began our meal with stuffed mushrooms, shrimp Capri and brie soup. The soup was too rich and cheesy for anyone but the most loyal brie aficionados; but the mushrooms stuffed with crab meat and topped with Hollandaise sauce were moist and not too heavily spiced. Next came the only average part of the meal: a run-of-the-mill house salad. The sauces for our entrees were prepared at our table, and although we got a bit nervous watching our waiter submerge a beautiful steak Diane in thick brown sauce, we were relieved and delighted to taste the light blend of red wine, cream, mushrooms, shallots, Dijon mustard and Worcestershire sauce. The peppered filet flambé had a delicious cream and brandy sauce, and the Dover sole was served with plenty of creamy white sauce. The entree portions could stand to be a little smaller. The servings of mixed house vegetables were too good (seasoned with shallots and garlic) to be presented so skimpily. One dessert made the drive to Addison worthwhile: Although the waiter bragged on the chocolate rum cake and the Grand Marnier souffle, we insisted on strawberries flambe. The mixture of fresh berries, orange rind, brown sugar and Grand Marnier topped with whipped cream was spectacular. Our only substantial complaint: the music. This dorkier-than-usual brand of Muzak could use some class. (15107 Addison Road, north of Belt Line, 960-8686. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$)

Fong Lin. Why anyone would risk opening a restaurant in a strip shopping center is beyond comprehension-the concept all but invites mediocrity. But we were pleasantly and wholeheartedly surprised by the arrival of Fong Lin in Town Creek Shopping Center. Perhaps its owners decided to forego the usual cosmetic superficialities, opting instead to produce good food. Judging by the decor and menu, that would seem entirely possible. At Fong Lin, you won’t be bombarded by ceilings strung with glowing red-fringed paper lanterns or walls lined in red-and-black-flocked paper, but neither will you encounter spacious rooms filled with Ming vases or doorways guarded by giant porcelain foo dogs. In fact, you probably won’t notice much about your surroundings at all; they’re decidedly ordinary. But the same cannot be said of the food. We began with what has become an Oriental cuisine standard: the pu pu tray. We could have happily ended our meal here -the overflowing tray offered crunchy, vegetable-packed egg rolls (gloriously free of any nuclear orange-colored additives); light, crisp won ton; barbecued spareribs; paper-wrapped chicken (deep-fried marinated chicken wrapped in aluminum foil); fried shrimp; and cho cho (skewered strips of steak in a barbecue sauce). Next came an order of three delicacies soup loaded with hunks of shrimp, scallops, chicken and vegetables. (Also worth trying is the crab meat with sweet corn soup; it’s a subtler, smoother option.) Trying to make your entree selection may be a bit more difficult -you’ll have several pages of Hunan, Szechwan and Cantonese dishes from which to choose. We settled on orange beef (sliced tenderloin sauteed in orange peel with toasted sesame seeds) and chicken and shrimp Hunan-style (diced chicken and shrimp sauteed with vegetables in a spicy Hunan sauce). We’ve also tried the moo shu pork, a fine interpretation of another Oriental standard. Our only negative note: a disastrous mai tai that was so sickeningly sweet we had a tough time swallowing it. But we’ll ignore the misguided mai tai (you need to buy a membership to drink here, anyway) and the barren location and remember Fong Lin as a pleasure. (8440 Abrams, Suite 408. 343-4514. Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 p.m. MC, AE, V. $$)

Maitre D’. They even chilled our salad forks. This relaxing uptown establishment (that technically isn’t a newcomer; it’s under new management) may soon rival the longtime greats downtown if it keeps on its toes. The elegant burgundy-and-brown decor, molded ceilings and perfect, well-timed service instantly put us at ease, and the food was far from average. We began with a serving of vegetable soupthat was possibly the best we’ve tasted. Wewere most impressed that Maitre D’ wasn’tafraid of including such a simple appetizerin its posh little restaurant. One of thespecials the night we visited included individual medallions of veal, chicken andbeef. We expected far too much meat andtoo few vegetables but thought that ordering this entree would fulfill our obligationto sample everything we could possiblydigest. We were happy with all three andate every bite. Each piece was tender,cooked to order and garnished attractively, one with a mushroom stamped with astar on top. We also enjoyed a wonderfully tender steak Diane. The vegetables werelightly cooked and held much of theirnatural flavor. Maitre D’ even served ushot, fresh croissants. Lunch selections include vichyssoise and a meat-and-cheesecombination served on a croissant. (5290 Belt Line. 239-2799. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. Allcredit cards. $$$)

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.



These listings are revised and supplemented periodically Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment- Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” Indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL



Agnew’s. Of the scores of new restaurants in the northern oasis beyond LBJ, the most welcome addition must be Agnew’s in Adelstein Plaza (north of Belt Line). Although not extensive, the dinner menu offers a tantalizing array of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Of the five entrees we sampled, three were outstanding, one was excellent and the last was very good. One noteworthy entree is the sliced breast of duck and drumstick served with pink peppercorn sauce. The lamb is also impeccable. For dessert, the elaborate pastry cart offers several outstanding selections. (15501 Dallas N Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza, Suite 300. 458-0702. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

Bagatelle. Dallas abounds with beautiful restaurants and good food, but rarely is excellence the rule of thumb. Bagatelle, however, seems comfortable with quality. The menu offers some out-of-the-ordinary entrees such as stuffed quail and Long Island duckling. We enjoyed several large, meaty shrimp in garlic butter in the crevettes Bagatelle. The beef is tender and especially good when served with artichoke hearts and sliced mushrooms or when flambeed with cognac and pepper sauce. The chocolate mousse “flavored” with amaretto was quite the final act. (4925 Greenville. 692-8225. Lunch: 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sunday brunch: 10:30-2. All credit cards. Reservations. $$$)

Belvedere. The red quilted booths are plush; the antique furnishings, lush; and the dinner music, classical. The Belvedere serves basically the same kind of delicious Swiss-Austrian food as its older sister. The Chimney. The veal (the restaurants specialty) approaches L’Ambiance’s in excellence, and the beef is tender; but the light, spirited sauces make the meal. (4242Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Café de Paris. Here you’ll find continental cuisine served in a comfortable, country-French atmosphere. Offerings include tender beef bourguig-nonne, salmon bearnaise covered with a tasty sauce, duck with melon and a French onion soup that is easily one of the best in town. And the brie soup is not to be missed. Dessert highlights are the fruit tart (served warm with fresh whipped cream) and the praline pie. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 653-1027. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Closed Sun Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Calluaud. Some of the dishes on Calluaud’s menu qualify as “best in the city” or in some cases, “only such dish in the city.” Prime examples include veal in a creamy hazelnut sauce, deliciously seasoned turbot with champagne and truffles, a notable quail and duck steak with lime. The scallops, filet en croute and the salmon en croute are superb. The delicate lobster souffle and garlicky escargots de bourgogne are excellent openers. Lovely terracotta and cream-colored surroundings are quietly elegant, as is the service. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat seatings at 7 and 9:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties re-quired for men. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

The Chimney. Service is sometimes slow and the appetizers can be unappetizing, but the entrees at this understated restaurant are wonderful. Ten of the 18 listed are veal, so we expected the veal for-estiere to be good; it was better than that Also recommended is the Rehsteak Chimney, breathtakingly tender tournedos of Montana venison. (Willow Creek Center. 9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Chlǒe. Once you get past the gorgeous glass front doors and are almost out of earshot of the stereo system, you can enjoy a four-course dinner here that is prix fixe at $30. The lobster mousse and the oysters and escargots with spinach are both fine openers. Next try a baby bibb with leeks salad or a steaming bowl of “soup of the seas.” For the main course, the filet of sea bass with beluga caviar is sinfully indulgent, and the duck with black currants is moist and tender with just the right touch of sweet currants. For dessert, the white-chocolate mousse is rich but light, and the amaretto souffle is heavenly. (8854 N Central Expwy in NorthPark East. 361-9996. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. All credit cards. $$$$)

The Enclave. Here you expect all the waiters to be named James and to be gentlemen’s gentlemen in their moonlighting hours. As for the food, the filet can be a bit dry but is usually very good; and the pepper steak flambe and the lightly breaded veal Oscar are tastefully presented. The house vegetables have been the only disappointment. The tab is reasonable, considering the plush elegance of the place. (8325 Walnut Hill. 363-7487. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 6-11. Happy hour Mon-Fri 4:30-7. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Enjolie. Enjolie joins the growing list of Dallas’ finer restaurants, serving innovative and ambitious cuisine in an elegant but comfortable setting. The menu offers superior variations on culinary standards- chicken with crayfish, pepper steak, veal with mushrooms, medallions of lamb with tarragon sauce-as well as more unusual fare for the more audacious- roast pigeon, sweetbreads, pheasant mousse. Complimentary cheeses are served after the seafood entrees, so if you want dessert, be judicious. (Mandalay hour Seasons Hotel, 221 S Colinas Blvd, Irving. 556-0800. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. AE, MC, V, DC. $$$$)

Ewald’s. Less pretentious and flashy than most continental restaurants in Dallas, Ewald’s ranks in the highest echelon when it comes to the quality of its food. Among the standouts are the tournedos St. Moritz, veal steak au moulin and veal Pagallo. Superb desserts include the strawberries Romanoff and the crème caramel. (5415 W Lovers Lane. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30 pm, Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Francisco’s. Francisco’s, although not the same caliber as the best of the continental restaurants, is still good and reasonably priced. Soups are the high point on the menu. Clear mushroom soup, with mushrooms floating in consommé and topped with light pastry, is superb. Minestrone, a soup of the day. is almost as good. And the tournedos is a quality entree. For lunch, the chef’s salad is commendable. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sat sealings at 7 & 9:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



The French Room. Even if The French Room didn’t serve the best food in Dallas, dining here would be a worthwhile experience. The opulent decor is reminiscent of a Louis XIV dining room. Every dish is superb-from the bisque of langoustine and crayfish to the foie gras in aspic, the roast lobster with thyme and caviar sauce, and the Grand Marnier mousse. Service is excellent and intimate (the restaurant has set a limit of 90 diners per evening). Allow one to two weeks’ waiting time if you want a weeknight reservation or a month if you want a weekend reservation. (Adolphus Hotel. 1321 Commerce. 742-8200, ext 191. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Galle. Watch out, French Room. Move over. Cal-luaud. Galle has arrived, and our impression is most favorable. Everything from the atmosphere to the after-dinner coffee in this Lincoln Radisson Hotel restaurant was prepared and presented to near perfection. For appetizers, the shining star is the cold hors d’oeuvres tray. Though quite expensive for an appetizer ($14), it was truly a treat. The watercress salad with walnut oil was very simple but was perhaps the most elegant salad offering. More than 15 entrees are offered at Galle, including seafood, fowl, rabbit and beef. The sweetbreads with morels were fabulous-tender, flavorful and served in a smooth brown sauce. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, Lincoln Center, 5400 LBJ Frwy. 934-8400. Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)



The Garden Court. This Melrose restaurant proves that with age can come beauty and grace. The 59-year-old hotel has been born again, and the mix of art deco and traditional styling in this bright, curtain- less black and white marble-floored room makes for a cheering lunch or a romantic dinner. The desserts, such as the rich, moist fudge nut cake, make it difficult to choose a sensible entree, but a bowl of seafood chowder crowded with great hunks of fish and fresh vegetables and a crisp Garden Court salad makes a perfect lunch. (3075 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Breakfast: Mon-Sat 6:30-11; lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11, Sun 6-9; Sun brunch 7-3. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



The Grape. Everyone loves The Grape, but the people who seem to love it most are lovers. Candlelight is conducive not only to romantic conversations but also to discussions of bad poetry and good dance. The food is excellent. Quiche Lorraine is a staple, as are the homemade mushroom soup and Boston lettuce dinner salad. The pates are consistently noteworthy. Service is provided by bright, young people who probably live lives more fascinating than any of their clientele. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-midnight. All credit cards. $$)

Jean Claude. In 1977, Jean Claude began serving haute cuisine on a basis the city hadn’t seen before. No menus, no advertising, reservations-only seating. Now Jean Claude is something of a haute cuisine shrine for most astute Dallasites. For $29.50 per person, diners can have a complete meal with entrees such as lobster in a light cream sauce, salmon menuiner or duck roasted in ginger sauce, not to mention excellent choices of veal. And the dessert souffles-ahh. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 and 9 pm. Reservations only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)

Jennivine. Although the atmosphere is British, Jen-nivine offers a lovely selection of pates, French wines and cheeses from various countries. The dinner menu, which is written on a blackboard, varies according to the fresh seafood that is available. Tender sea scallops and filet of sole are excellent. Service is friendly and sometimes British-accented. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

L’Ambiance. This is definitely the best continental food you’ll ever eat in a converted gas station. Salads are impeccable; soups are fresh and flavorful. Recommended entrees are the medallions of veal with mushroom puree and the pepper-sauced filet mignon. When lobster bisque is available, be sure to try it. The pastry selection is varied and gorgeous. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

La Vieille Varsovie (The Old Warsaw). Tableside food preparation with a theatrical flair highlights dining in the Old Warsaw. Poached salmon in champagne sauce, fresh lobster and Dover sole with lemon butter are standouts. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Laurent. A strong contender for the best of the new far North Dallas entries. Laurent is crisp, smooth and elegant. The regular entrees include the classic French fish, fowl and beet and a plethora of daily specialties. The elegant portioning of the dishes is especially pleasing-each serving is prepared for light consumption, course by delicate course. For dessert, a beautiful display tray of pastries is brought to the table. (502 Sakowitz Village on the Pkwy. 960-2988. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sat 6:30-10:30. Sun & Mon available for private parties. Reservations. Jackets required for dinner. MC, V, AE. $$$)

L’Entrecote. The dining experience here is exalted to the utmost. Each table is attended by a captain, a waiter, as many as three assistants and a wine steward. And the cuisine is on a par with the rich, subtle surroundings. As appetizers, the delicately seasoned escargots topped with light pastry were some of the best we’ve ever tasted. The terrine of pheasant with pistachios complemented by mandarin oranges was smooth and slightly tart. The waiter displayed deft skill in preparing the wilted spinach salad with walnuts; it was a perfect blend of sweet and sour. For the finishing touch, the white and dark chocolate mousse was sinfully rich. (Loews Anatole Hotel. 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm; dinner: daily 6-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$$)

Les Saisons. Here you’ll get what restaurant critics call a “dining experience. ’ The food is French, the waiters are French (or are at least good impersonators) and the decor is set approximately in turn-of-the-century suburban Paris. Meals at Les Saisons are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent, with such interesting twists such as roast Cornish hen with tarragon sauce, braised sweetbreads and sirloin saute with Roquefort cheese and green peppercorns. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. The place to see and be seen in Dallas, the Mansion offers an elegant decor often supplemented by dining celebrities. Menu standouts include the tortilla soup, the bearnaise sauce that tops the red snapper and the pate that garnishes the duck with brown sauce. A chef from The Jockey Club in Washington has added soft-shell crab to the house specialties. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30; lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2:30; brunch: Sat noon-2:30 & Sun 11 -2:30; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)

Maple Street East. This handsome Victorian house has been a favorite dining spot since it opened, even though the food was a little uneven at first. Now, all that’s straightened out, and Maple Street East is consistently good. The salads are delicious, and the fettuccine verde is especially good at lunch, as is the crab, bacon and avocado sandwich. At dinner, try the tournedos, with English trifle for dessert. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch: 11:30-2:30: dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Pyramid Room. Courteous and thorough service is the rule here, from matchbooks embossed with the customer’s name to the presence of the charming Italian wine steward. Lunch includes Irish smoked salmon and oysters Kirkpatrick. Topping the dinner lineup are the house pate of fish and lobster with two sauces, and the steak au poivre. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Three Vikings. Weekend diners are still lining up to try the city’s only samplings of Swedish cuisine. Entrées include roast duck with almond sauce and lamb chops with wild mushroom sauce. The veal Oscar and grilled salmon steak are both excellent. And there’s no nicer way to begin a meal than with the offerings on Three Vikings’ relish tray. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Mon-Thur 6-10pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Tiburon. If absence makes food grow dearer, then we’ve found the secret of this restaurant-club on Highway 30 past Six Flags. Every morsel we swallowed was excellent-the Tiburon special appetizer platter with a combination of goodies including fried shrimp, fried zucchini, egg rolls, beef imperial and stuffed mushrooms gave us our first inkling of what to expect, but that first taste came far too deep into the night. We arrived (we had made reservations) at 9 p.m.; we got our menus somewhere around 10 and weren’t served our entrees until well after midnight. We were so hungry we failed to note what we ordered, but oh, it was magnificent-once it arrived. Our steak was a tad rarer than we had hoped, but it was still tender and wonderfully spiced. (1300 Cope-land Road, off Highway 30. 277-4183. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 8 pm-2 am. MC, V, DC, AE. $$$)



ETHIOPIAN



The Blue Nile. Don’t be intimidated by the names of the menu items here; almost everything is stewlike and spicy and good. Expect the unexpected: The food is served on pizza pans, and no silverware is provided. In Ethiopia, it is proper to eat with the right hand, and injera (Ethiopian bread that is spongy and tastes slightly sour) is used as an eating utensil. For the newcomer. The Blue Nile’s combination plate offers an extensive sampling of traditional dishes including minchet abesh (finely chopped spiced beef), zilzil tibs (beef strips fried with a tangy sauce) and misser wott (lentil stew with herbs). (7242 Gaston. 324-0471. Tue-Sun noon-midnight. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V. $)

The Red Sea. The Oak Lawn area has just about everything, including one of Dallas’ two Ethiopian restaurants. Here you can dine on such exotic-sounding items as doro wott (chicken spiced with hot pepper), yebeg wott (lamb stew with spiced butter and herbs) and potatoes and carrots cooked in curry. Ethiopian dining is an experience for the adventuresome. If you don’t feel quite at ease with the Ethiopian eating process, just ask for assistance. (2926 Oak Lawn. 528-8476. Daily 11-11. No credit cards. $)



QOURMET CARRYOUT



Beauregard’s. This tiny gourmet carryout/Euro-pean-style grocery carries a varied selection of fresh vegetables from around the world, homemade jams and jellies and an assortment of fresh-baked breads. In addition, owner Beauregard Detterman prepares meat pies to heat at home, ready-to-go pasta salads, pates and desserts. On one visit, we sampled a chicken pie with bell pepper, onion, tomato and zucchini-topped with mozzarella. When heated, the pie was a juicy blend of flavors that made a filling meal. As a good complement, the duck liver pate was smooth, creamy and rich. To finish the meal, we chose Beauregard’s dessert specialty: a chocolate cake made with French and Austrian chocolate that marinates for four days. This cake is for chocaholics only. (4603 W Lovers Lane. 351-0378. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm, Sun 11 am-6:30 pm. No credit cards. $$$)

Knox Street West. If you’re looking for a place to pick up fixings suitable for a lakeside picnic or a midnight rooftop feast, stop by Knox Street West. This small European-style carryout market sets the mood for a romantic occasion-there’s a fireplace, rustic old cabinetry and antique fixtures. The menu is limited and changes frequently, but that’s the charm of the place. When we visited, two outstanding entrees were available: chicken Dijon and a vegetable quiche. Desserts, as a whole, are winners, with the exception of the cheesecake, which, although flavorful, was a bit dry. A wide variety of wines and imported beers is available as are several blends of coffee, ground fresh to order. (3314 Knox. 528-4140. Daily 10 am-7 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mirabelle. Mirabelle’s menu varies daily and is an incredibly inventive one. The pistachio-spiced country terrine is an excellent pate. Salads are offered in a wide range of combinations. A good standby is the tarragon chicken salad, and there’s always a pasta salad or two, some with seafood or meat. We tried a mixture of baby shells, peas and ham seasoned with fresh basil, which was very good, if you really love basil. The coq au vin is a good entree. Mirabelle’s crowning achievements are its desserts. The fresh plum and apple tarts are excellent, as is the sour cream cheesecake offered with a peach melba sauce. And the cookies and bran muffins are tops and well worth their hefty price. (74 Highland Park Village. 528-7589. Tue-Sun 10:30 arn-7.30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)

The Winery. Amid the vast wine stock at this shop adjacent to Jean Claude is a display case full of edible goodies perfect for eating in or carrying out. The emphasis is on freshly prepared salads and desserts, home-baked breads and cheeses-including hard-to-find varieties such as mozzarella rolled with prosciutto. Caterer Nancy Beckham will make sandwich or cheese trays, antipasto plates, dips and hors d’oeuvres for parties-or you can sample her hearty soups and sandwiches with a glass of wine on the spot. (2404 Cedar Springs. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm, Sun 3-8:30 pm. Complimentary wine tasting every Sun 6-8 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)



INDIAN



India House. Dinner service is extremely attentive in this establishment where the selections are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. Fresh-from-the-oven breads and appetizers such as the chicken chat are superb. Both the tandoori chicken and beef (marinated delights served with shovel-sized portions of fluffy rice) are tasty and extremely filling. The cheese balls in sweet milk are perfect for dessert. (5422 £ Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations lor more than six. Alt credit cards. $$)

Kebab-N-Kurry. If you’re looking for something new and you’ve never tried Indian food, this is the perfect atmosphere in which to learn. The place is small, the waiters are friendly and very knowledgeable about Indian food and its history, and the food is authentic. The chicken chat is a tasty appetizer, as are the samosas (turnover-type pastries stuffed with either vegetables or meat). And a wide assortment of Indian breads, pitalike and quite unusual, is also offered. (401 N Central Expwy, Suite 300. 231-5556. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-10:30; brunch: Sat & Sun 11:30-2:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $)

Sahib. Sahib is a wonderful place for dinner when the old taste buds are bored with Western European cuisine. Every time we go to Sahib we’re delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor and the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Maharaja Sahib’s Mughlai Biryani is our favorite-lamb cooked with herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs. It tastes even better with some sweet mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread). Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so just remember that you can turn down the elephant’s memory (a pina coladalike drink) and the mango ice cream, but enjoy the advice-waiters will tell you exactly what to expect from each dish. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Tanjore. At this North Dallas Indian restaurant, the Middle Eastern mood comes through loud and clear with piped-in Hindi music and the tastes and smells of curry, cumin, cinnamon and coriander. Tanjore offers a large selection of vegetarian dishes, poultry, seafood and lamb and beef specialties. We settled on an order of lamb mugali (chunks of tender lamb in a creamy sauce with nuts) and shahi korma (boneless chicken cooked in curry with butter, cream and almonds). The sauce was spiced mildly-but not meekly-in both dishes. For something unusual, try a Tanjorita: a soothing whipped yogurt drink. (Pres-tonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat 11:30-3; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. BYOB; setups available. All credit cards. $$)



ITALIAN



Bugatti. Bugatti offers consistently superior homemade pasta, the quintessential element for any good Italian restaurant. But Bugatti goes far beyond that. The chef handles veal as well as any of his Dallas contemporaries, and the homemade soups are among the best in the city. Other standouts include the tortellini alla crema (homemade doughnut-shaped pasta shells stuffed with veal and engulfed in a rich white cream sauce), the crab cannelloni and the fettuccine della casa. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)

Campisi’s. In a dark room lined with celebrity photos is served the food that has made Campisi’s a Dallas institution. Veal marsala with rich mushroom sauce, fettuccine, garlic toast and its famous rectangular pizza-solid Italian cooking at bargain prices. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355, 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Cunze’s. Although it may look suspiciously like another faceless pizza shack, Cunze’s is far from it. What you’ll find here is serious Italian food-veal scallopine, linguine with clams, fresh calamari (squid). Entrees come with the traditional green salad and a steaming side of pasta in either a garlic or a tomato sauce. The veal and shrimp combination is especially tasty-thin slices of tender veal sauteed with scampi in butter, lemon and garlic. As for atmosphere, Cunze’s interior is about as classy as Mama’s kitchen, but somehow the result is almost romantic. (6701 Greenville. 369-5747. Mon-Sat 5-11 pm, Sun 5-10 pm, MC, V, AE. $$$)

Da Piccolo. A tiny spot near Knox Street in Old Highland Park, this is a place for pleasant, unpretentious Italian fare. The calamari is delicious, and spaghetti carbonara follows nicely. The lasagna is also worth a try. Service and prices are reasonable. But beware: This place is so small that intimacy is almost impossible. (4537 Cole Ave. 521-1191. Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)

DiPalma. It’s still hard to resist this festive restaurant/food store and its wide array of pastas, despite spotty service and inflated prices. DiPalma features several flavorful dishes not found at other Italian establishments, such as chicken lasagna and lemon garlic chicken, as well as the more traditional Italian fare. For an adventurous and rewarding lunch, try the pasta “salad sampler.” And the assortment of Italian pastries is as good as it looks. (1520 Greenville. 824-4500. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V. $$)

La Tosca. Elegant, understated surroundings and food equally as tasteful greet diners at La Tosca. Octopus salad and pepata di vongole or cozze (a clam dish) stand out on a menu that includes excellent pasta (paglio e fieno and canelloni are delicious), scaloppine al marsala and involtini nicola, two veal dishes. Another unusual treat worth sampling is the cold, thinly sliced veal with tuna sauce. Noteworthy desserts include profitterol al cioccolato (a cream-filled pastry) and ice cream with Strega, an Italian liqueur. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombardi. This place may never be as good as the old Lombardi’s on McKinney, but when it is at its best, the pasta is inspirational. Also offered are superior soups (clam chowder and minestrone excel), fine veal dishes (especially the veal with lemon butter, veal marsala and saltimbocca Ro-mana) and first-rate tarts and other desserts, all with Lombardi’s traditionally good service. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: 11 -2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Lurtino’s. The atmosphere at Lurtino’s is fairly posh, out the waiters aren’t stuffy. We began our meal with a wonderful house specialty, sausage and peppers neopolitan. Another good bet is the scungilli Genovese (snails sauteed in a cream sauce). The house salad is the typical lettuce and tomatoes, but the entrees are grand. A fine selection of pastas is available, the best of which is the tagalirini with white clam sauce. Lurtino’s also offers a number of veal dishes. Desserts get mixed reviews. (13601 Preston Road, C22. 661-9766. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sundays. Reservations. No jeans. All credit cards. $$$) Mario’s. Out of the vein of most pizzeria-style Italian eateries, Mario’s offers first-rate, napkin-placing, cigarette-lighting service and food. Above-average pasta, veal entrées and sauces are fitting preludes to dessert, possibly one of Mario’s fine souffles. (735 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$)

Pan’ E Vino. We’ll admit a strong prejudice against chain restaurants, but we can’t skip Pan’ e Vino. This young subsidiary of People’s restaurants is beautifully done-hi-tech enough to be in, but not obnoxiously vogue. You’d never guess you were on the shores of Central Expressway after passing the lighted pedestal of jelly beans at the door and following the waiter through a maze of diaphanous screens to a table. The area of the restaurant is small, but the shimmery screens lend privacy. The variety of italian soups, sandwiches, salads, meats, seafoods and pastas is immense, so it follows that the food is good rather than superb. But the prices are reasonable and Pan’ e Vino is a first in this city, it offers family-style prices and a chic atmosphere to boot. (10443 N Central. 363-2990. Daily 11:30 am-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Prego Pasta House. As can be determined after a glance at the menu, the owner of Prego, Joe Barraco, is also the manager of Campisi’s. In many cases, we found the food at Prego to be similar to Campisi’s, but the atmosphere and service is generally better. For appetizers, the artichoke hearts and scampi were passable but a bit blah-not much garlic or imagination. The fried provolone was excellent, though. Our only complaint is that the cheese was a bit overbreaded. As a general rule of thumb, order the authentic Italian specialties; they’re all top-notch. The veal cutlet parmigiana is excellent, as is the lasagna. Pizza is the same as Campisi’s: thin tasty crust with oodles of rich, thick Italian topping. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11. MC, V, AE. $$)

Ristorante Lombardi. With this latest addition in Adelstein Plaza, Lombardi’s continues its tradition of offering great Italian cuisine. Try the specialty of the house appetizer (delizia tricolore), a sampling of some of Lombardi’s pasta, or steamed clams served with a garlic, white wine and lemon sauce. As entrees, the sea bass with mixed seafood is flavorful and rich; the veal scaloppine, tender and buttery. The juicy lamb chops are prepared in a lightly seasoned breading and are sauteed with red peppers, onions and black olives. Don’t pass up dessert- Lombardi’s smooth, subtle chocolate rum cake is a real treat.(155O1 Dallas Pkwy at Arapaho. 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-11; brunch: Sun 11-3. All credit cards. $$$)

Sergio and Luciano. The setting here is not altogether satisfying-it’s half upstairs, half downstairs, and most of the action is on the upper floor. There’s a feeling of loneliness if you have to be seated below, even though there’s the bar and soft, pleasing piano music to keep you company. But the food here is superb. Calamari-fried at lunch and served in a hot spicy broth as an appetizer at dinner-is excellent. So is the tortellini alla panna, offered as a first course in small portions that leave room for more. If you want pasta, you can’t improve on the fettuccine with white clam sauce. The vegetables are carefully prepared, and Sergio and Luciano serves real Italian hard rolls. (4900 Belt Line, Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-6; dinner: nightly 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)



MEXICAN



Adeline’s. This tiny hole-in-the-wall in Preston Center dishes up wonderful huevos rancheros for breakfast plus other Mexican morning specialties such as migas (eggs scrambled with tortilla bits, cheese and tomatoes) and huevos con chorizo. The accompanying potatoes are good and hearty. For lunch try the tamales, which are outstanding, or the fajitas (grilled strips of beef in a flour tortilla with lettuce and tomato). Adelina’s also caters any night except Thursday, with a maximum of 50 guests. (6027 Berkshire Lane. 363-8680. Mon-Sat 8 am-3 pm, Thur 6 am-9 pm. No credit cards. $).

Alexandra’s. Some unusual yet somehow pleasing combinations caught our attention at this North Dallas furniture store-turned-restaurant. The menu offered an interesting compilation of Italian and Mexican fare, and one appetizer, queso flamiado, effectively combined the two. In it. steamy flour tortillas were served with an Italianesque (though the menu insists it is Spanish) sauce; the dish could be the beginning of a tasty new genre: Italo-Mex. The combination nachos, served with all the trimmings plus chives, should be in the running for our next royal nacho award, but we found some of the entrees (chicken enchiladas and carne al carbon) a little ordinary. The breast of chicken al carbon was tender, though, and the beer-batter shrimp were the biggest, juiciest hunks of delicately coated crustaceans we’ve seen. (12801 Midway. Suite 503. 243-6841. Mon-Thur 11 am-midnight. Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am. AE, MC, V. $$$)

Cafe Cancun. Cafe Cancun serves the finest Mexico City-style Mexican food in town. The standout menu items are too numerous to sample during one visit, but there are a few items you shouldn’t miss. Try the corn soup, which is thick with cheese and corn meal, and the enchiladas verdes (chicken or cheese enchiladas with spicy green tomatillo sauce). Then sample the tacos al carbon, the quesa-dillas Cancun and the nachos Cancun (black beans, guacamole, cheese and sour cream). (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnight, Sun noon-10. No reservations. AE, MC, V. $$)

Gonzalez. Rule: Avoid dining in at restaurants that do a heavy takeout trade-you’ll be slighted on the amenities, especially service. Exception to rule: Gonzalez. Most of the basics are reliable: The beans and rice are heaven-sent, and anything served on a corn tortilla is a winner. The hot sauce, both spicy and steaming, goes well with the abundant chips and almost makes up for the wimpish, bland guaca-mole. Puff tacos and chile rellenos are among the standout entrees-all of which cost less than $6. And if you’re looking for a breakfast treat, try the chilaquillas (tortilla strips fried with eggs and peppers). No frills here (and the voices of the drive-through patrons are a nuisance), but the food makes it all worthwhile. (4333 Maple at Wycliff. 528-2960. Daily: 7 am-9 pm. All credit cards. $)

Guadalajara. This Ross Avenue hole-in-the-wall has made itself respectable: a new door, new plate-glass windows and a brightly striped awning. We were put-off at first, nostalgic about the days when roach and man ate side by side, but Guadalajara is still a far cry from elegant. Service was Quicker than in the past, and all our Tex-Mex was prepared just the way we like it. Sombreros off to Guadalajara for realizing that the charm of sleaze lasts only so long. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Thur 11 am-3:30 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-4 am. Closed Mon. No credit cards. $)

Herrera. Despite the fact that this dumpy little restaurant on Maple Avenue has more customers than it can possibly serve, the food and the service have remained consistently good. Suggestions include the Jimmy’s special or the Pepe’s special, both of which are virtual Tex-Mex smorgasbords. The only bad news is that Herrera’s has no liquor license, so bring enough beer to carry you through the wait and the meal. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun till 10. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Javier’s. Unlike the standard Tex-Mex food found at most Mexican restaurants, Javier’s offers Mexico City-style gourmet dining. The fish and chicken dishes are excellent; the beef dishes, creditable; and the tortilla soup, superb. For dessert, try the smooth, satisfying mango mousse or the cafe Pierre, which is flamboyantly prepared at the table. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. By definition, there can be but one best Mexican restaurant in North America. There have been times when we were wont to bequeath that title to Joe T.’s in Fort Worth, but now that isn’t the issue. We are here to talk about an upstart: Garcia does Dallas. After several months’ consideration-noting that the owners feel confident enough to sell greeting cards and T-shirts Six Flags-style- we’ll just say we enjoyed the new Joe T.’s. The margaritas are delightfully, dangerously stiff; and the food-still one-shot standard Mexican fare-is pleasingly dependable. The atmosphere (with some token leaning walls) is not plagiaristic enough of the mother Joe T.’s to be offensive. (4440 Belt Line. 458-7373. Mon-Sat 11 am-3 pm and 5-11 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. MC, V. $$)

La Esquina. What you find at this Mexican food restaurant located in the Loews Anatole is what you would expect to find in a Mexican food restaurant located in a large hotel: slightly above-average food at the higher-than-reasonable prices that tourists are willing to pay. But the quality of ingredients used is generally high, and the view inside the Anatole’s multistoried atrium is beautiful. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30: dinner: daily 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario & Alberto. Dining here is a completely pastel experience, like a meal inside a great peach petit four. Strong margaritas, good chips and hot sauce, chicken nachos and flautas con crema set a fine mood for main courses chosen from a vast menu (which includes everything from standard bean and taco plates to zucchini stuffed with ground sirloin). (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membership charge. All credit cards. $$)

Mercado Juarez. We’ll admit to being impulsive with our praise for Tex-Mex houses; all at once we fall in love, returning again and again to slurp hot sauce and inhale beans. Today we’re beside ourselves with cravings for lunch, dinner or anything in between at our new favorite dive. Mercado Juarez meets all our standards of excellence: (1.) It’s cheap; (2.) it’s clean; (3.) it’s unaffected; and (4.) we were served a lot of food. Half the warehouse-type building is devoted to an interesting Mexican craft market. The vastness of both the building and the menu scared us at first-we feared Pancho-esque automation-but somehow they pulled it off and served us mass quantities of superb nachos, tacos and all the trimmings. (1901 W Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun noon-10 pm. AE, MC, V. $$)

Pepe’s Café. Pepe’s is a marriage of good basic Tex-Mex and unpretentious but gracious surroundings and service. The owner and employees manage authentic fare of everyday Mexicans without the usual dirty-Formica atmosphere of such establishments. The nachos, flautas and pork dishes are all delicious. (3011 Routh. 698-9445. Mon-Fri 10:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm, Sat 10:30 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Raphael’s. We’ve grown suspicious of civilized Mexican restaurants, guessing that their best is only fresh from the freezer. But Raphael’s throws a kink in this philosophy. The food is better than average, the surroundings are pleasant and the prices are not much higher than at many of our favorite dives. Strong points are the appetizers (including quesa-dillas) and the desserts (try the sopapillas con fresas). (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat noon-10:30 pm. Raphael’s Greenville, 6728 Greenville. 692-8431. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm; Sat noon-11. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. aii credit cards. $$)

Rosita’s. The chicken enchiladas and chicken flautas we tried here were reliably tasty and inexpensive. The tacos de carbon were a little dry, as was the carne asada Our only other substantial complaint was that some of the dinners lacked rice and beans, absolute staples for a Mexican dinner and not too much to ask for $3.95. The sopapillas, served with cinnamon and honey, were better than run-of-the-mill. Outside seating is available. (4906 Maple. 521-4741. Tue-Fri 10-10, Sat & Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $)



ORIENTAL



August Moon. The menu is vast, so go early and read it carefully. We began with a pu pu tray with the lightest fried shrimp and wonton we’ve ever tasted. August Moon Seafood Splendor and August Moon Sizzling Plate were tremendous in size and seasoned just barely-and then only to highlight natural flavors. The individual tastes of the meats and vegetables were easily distinguished and not greasy-a difficult feat with so many ingredients presented en masse. And the service was polite though at times a bit hurried. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat noon 11 pm. Reservations for eight or more. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, DC. $$)

Fangti China 1. The features worth mentioning about this place are the service and the hours. At all times of the day and night, the waitresses are chipper and cheerful. Since Fangti is open until six in the morning on weekends, it attracts an eclectically interesting crowd. The special soup and the hot and sour work well at late hours. The entrees, however, are inconsistent. (Twin Bridge Shopping Center, 6752 Shady Brook Lane. 987-3877. Sun-Thur 11-4 am, Fri & Sat 11-6 am, Sun 5 pm-4 am. AE, DC, MC, V. $$)

Forbidden City. This Chinese spot, next door to Wilson’s and in the same shopping center as three other restaurants, should be welcomed by North Dallasites. The atmosphere was quietly elegant, and the food matched the decor. Everything on our pu pu tray-shrimp toast to wontons to ribs-was well-prepared and flavorful. The tofu was tender and pleasantly spongy as opposed to the standard recapped rubber-tire versions. Also try the chicken and walnuts. Our chicken was tender; the walnuts, crunchy-providing a perfect example of the complementary textures so important to Chinese cuisine. Beef with snow peas was a pleasant variation on the same theme; the tender beef wasn’t overcooked, and the snow peas were crisp. The service was efficient and friendly. (5290 Belt Line. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Hunan Imperial. The difference between this Chinese restaurant and almost every other new Chinese restaurant begins with its extensive menu. There are offerings that are just not readily available at other Dallas Chinese restaurants. String beans with pork, for example. The beans we tasted were crisp and flavorful, with just a smidgen of pork flavor. Another dish we found both palate-pleasing and pretty was the shrimp with pine nuts. The vegetables and the pine nuts were crisp and crunchy; the shrimp, well-cooked but not tough or mushy; the barbecue ribs, tops. And the atmosphere, although not quite imperial, was at least subdued and conducive to fine dining. (The Corner Shopping Center, Walnut Hill and N Central Expwy. 363-3858. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-2 am. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)

Kobawoo. Our meals at this small Korean restaurant in Oak Lawn have been dining adventures. Lighted Korean posters line the walls, and a color TV is usually blaring an Oriental station. Our waitress wasn’t quite fluent enough to explain what we were eating, but we enjoyed the slices of Mongolian barbecued beef, anyway. The menu also offers several good chicken dishes. Some of Kobawoo’s vegetables were seasoned beyond recognition; and the sweet and sour pork was neither. Still, this place has charm and friendly service-it’s a good, quick, inexpensive place to grab a late-night Oriental bite. (3109 Inwood. 351-6922. Daily: 11 am-midnight. AE, MC, V. $)



Lotus. Forget about being hungry again in an hour; we left this restaurant happily filled to the gills, not planning another meal until well into the Chinese new year. Lotus runs low on swank (the ambiance comes in standard paper lanterns and red-and-black booths) but that’s unimportant-the manager is serious about serving well-prepared and seasoned Hunan and Szechuan delicacies. Plump, juicy shrimp and crispy egg rolls sat in places of well-deserved honor on a flaming pu pu tray. The entrees selected by the chef for our house special were a seafood club plate full of fresh, crisp vegetables tossed in a light sauce with ample crab, shrimp and scallops and a very spicy (at our machismo request) chicken-and-nut dish. The two were culinary oppo-sites yet proved the Lotus kitchen ready to handle simple or spicy Oriental food aficionados. (528 W Arapaho, Richardson. 231-9200. Daily 11 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Peking Szechuan. We found ourselves in agreement with the praise other reviewers have heaped upon this place. Nothing-save a lard-loaded egg roll-was disappointing, and the service was pleasantly well-paced. The lamb with green onion and the scallops with hot garlic sauce were extremely nice -both contained fresh, neatly chopped ingredients that maintained their own distinctiveness and crunch. Although one entree contained canned mushrooms, we found the entrees as a whole a welcome change from the gummy, gooey dishes served at some establishments. (2560 W Northwest Hwy. 353-0129. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Plum Blossom. This review differs from many others listed under “Oriental” because words such as “elegance” and “charm” apply. Subtle scroll paintings, glittering tableware and well-mannered service set the mood for the somewhat flamboyantly presented meal, chosen from one of the three standard banquets (the least expensive of which has five courses). Almost every item of our Emperor’s Banquet for two was exotic. Our appetizer-a 10-flavor chrysanthemum fire pot with seafood, chicken, beef, vegetables and noodles-at least bordered on the unusual; and we savored every delicate bite. We heard whispered complaints of high prices and limited quantity but were ourselves content with the number of different foods served in modest portions. After the fire pot came duck, then crab claws and shrimp in black-bean sauce, Chinese vegetables, sweet and sour pork, and fried custard for dessert. (Loews Anatole, 2201 Stemmons. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Reservations. All credit cards $$$)

Royal China. If anything improves the experience of dining here, it’s the unfailing courtesy of the staff and the personal care lavished on every diner. Not that the food needs a boost. Buck Kao’s royal prawn entrees are legendary, but lesser-known dishes such as curry chicken-moist slivers of fowl with carrot, celery, water chestnuts and onion-are always excellent. And don’t worry about being hungry an hour after eating here: If you start with the three delicacies soup (laden1 with shrimp, scallops and chicken), take on a Chinese appetizer plate (the barbecued spareribs are great) and finish up with a dish such as beef with tomato or sliced chicken with mushroom and bamboo shoots, you won’t want to consider dessert. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 361-1771. Daily: 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Sawatdee. If your culinary tastes are inclined toward the adventurous and experimental, this is truly an excellent restaurant in which to indulge. Among the specialties of the house worth noting are the red chicken curry, South Seas scallops and the dinner portion of moo satay. But be sure to clearly indicate to your waiter how spicy you like your food; otherwise you may be surprised or disappointed by the degree of seasoning. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30-2:30 pm 5:30-10:30 pm. AE, MC, V. $$)

Siam. Siam opened up new worlds for us when it brought Thai food to Dallas. For the uninitiated, Thai cuisine is often fiery hot, using peppers and curry sauces, and blends in several elements that separate it from spicy hot Chinese cooking such as Szechuan or Hunan. An excellent beginner is the moo-sar tey (pork strips on bamboo skewers served with a peanut sauce) and slices of cucumber and hot pepper. For an entree, try the gand ped-a rice dish with curry, bamboo shoots, coconut milk, mint leaves and your choice of pork, beef or chicken. Another standout is the pard Thai, a rice noodle dish with shrimp, pork, eggs, hot chili peppers, bean sprouts and green onions. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)

Taiwan. This restaurant is dressier and a bit more expensive than a lot of Chinese places in town, but it stands head and shoulders above most of them when it comes to food. The choices, particularly in terms of appetizers and soups, are extremely varied; the Kuo-Teh meat dumplings, the flaming pu pu platter and the sizzling rice soup for two are outstanding. The kitchen is at its best with the hot and spicy Szechuan dishes. Service can range from nerve-rackingly overattentive to somewhat absent-minded. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun 10 am-11 pm. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Uncle Tai’s. When the venerable Uncle Tai (one of New York’s most celebrated Chinese chefs) left the Big Apple to settle in Houston several years ago, it was a decided gain for Texans who enjoy flawless, fiery Hunan cuisine. Specializing in the spicy, predominantly stir-fried concoctions of his native Shanghai, Uncle Tai creates dishes that please the palate while subtly expanding it. Chinese-food fans who equate environmental dinginess with authentic fare are also in for a surprise. Everything from the curved lacquer-red woodwork to the elegant and weighty flatware is plush and handsome. But the food is the real revelation. At the risk of waxing effusive, it would be hard to find a restaurant with more careful food preparation, imaginative dishes, courteous service or handsome surroundings. (Suite 3370, Galleria. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Yunnan Dynasty. Probably the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas, Yunnan Dynasty is especially adept at hot and spicy dishes such as Yunnan spicy shrimp, shredded beef with hot pepper and black-bean sauce and diced chicken with hot pepper sauce. The chef’s special beef is also a crunchy delight. One of our all-time favorites is steamed fish, served whole, with black-bean sauce. For dessert, sesame bananas can’t be improved upon. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 191. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat noon-11 pm. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)



SEAFOOD



Fausto’s. This establishment deserves commendation for its excellence in all areas of restaurant management, especially for the food. King salmon with spinach in a puff pastry and baked swordfish with oysters and wine sauce would please anyone’s palate. The fresh shark gumbo and the artichoke and mushroom salad are equally special. The chocolate mousse is ambrosial; and the fresh coffee with beaten cream is superb. The elegant, dark and unhurried atmosphere makes for a particularly satisfying and romantic evening. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Daily: 6-11 pm; Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations for dinner. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Hampton’s Seafood Market. On any given day, this small, quaint seafood oasis adjacent to the Farmer’s Market downtown offers approximately 50 different kinds of seafood for eating in or carrying out. The luncheon menu is limited-as is the seating (only two tables)-but the offerings are excellent. We ordered the salmon salad with cucumber sandwich and the swordfish salad with green pepper (both served on flaky croissants). Chunky, slightly tart coleslaw was a complementary side dish. For a taste of Cajun country cooking, try Hampton’s seafood gumbo. The Hampton salad is a delightful combination of shrimp, coleslaw, vegetables and two kinds of fish salads. Hampton’s also sells its own marinade for fish, beef or chicken; shrimp boil; and homemade red sauce and tartar sauce. (801 S Pearl. 742-4668. Tue-Fri 8 am-6 pm, Sat & Sun 7 am-6 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Jozef’s. “Rough wood elegance” has become a cliche description of many seafood restaurants, but we can think of no better way to describe this comfortable, unpretentious, yet very fine McKinney Avenue restaurant. Prices were reasonable, service was bright and we enjoyed every bite from the bread to the cheesecake. The clean, spicy Creole shark soup is worth trying. Jozef’s crab meat Remick and mushrooms (stuffed with crab meat) began our meal perfectly. Our lobster was moist, not overcooked and was served with an unusually large steak. The chef’s special shrimp was beautifully served with mushrooms, shallots and a light creamy sauce. Our only complaint was with the vegetables-although they appeared to be fresh, they arrived cold. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Rocco Oyster Bar. If you can forget that we’re landlocked in Central Texas, there’s no less splendid place than Rocco’s to act like a drunken sailor and eat fresh seafood that still smacks of brine. But the food here tends to be a bit erratic. On one visit, our entrees were uniformly delightful: fresh sole alman-dine, soft-shell crab and the Big Mix-a brochette of shrimp, scallops, green pepper, tomato and oysters smoked until heated through but still moist. We weren’t as impressed on another trip- the sauteed scallops were a bit dry, and the sea bass was delivered raw. Chic industrial lighting and blue neon tubing make Rocco’s an exceptionally attractive place. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Wed 11-11, Thur-Sat 11 am-12:30 am. AE, MC, V. $$)

Seascape Inn. This seafood restaurant is one of Dallas’ finest eateries. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. The Dover sole Veronique and the salmon in puff pastry are two wonderful selections. “Gracious” best sums up the service and atmosphere; it is elegant but not pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

S & D Oyster Company. S&D could easily survive for years on its substantial assemblage of regulars who would much rather fight the growing crowds than switch. Why do droves flock to this humble establishment? Because S&D has some of the best fresh seafood in Dallas. Period. Broiled whole flounder and fried shrimp are among the freshly simple choices. And don’t forget S & D’s great sides-crisp coleslaw, crunchy hush puppies and French fries. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Spinnaker. The menu here is of manageable size-there is variety, but it doesn’t appear that the chef tries to perform beyond his means in order to impress. We began with an on-the-house appetizer, a tasty sample of marinated shrimp. Our entree choices included a filet of red snapper with white wine and lemon butter and bouillabaisse marsel-laise, rich with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, halibut, sea bass, lobster, mussels, redfish and clams in a deliciously light, non-fishy broth. The appetizers we sampled-baked clams with shrimp and crab meat and bisque of crawfish with cognac-were very good. But we missed having salads with our meal and feel compelled to give Spinnaker counsel on its desserts: The chocolate chip-pecan pie and the strawberry tart just didn’t taste as good as they should have. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, 5410 LBJ Frwy at Dallas N Tollway. 934-8400. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11: brunch: Sun 11-3 (reservations only). All credit cards. $$$)

Turtle Cove. Decisions are easy to make at Turtle Cove: Order the fresh seafood broiled over a mes-quite wood fire, a whiff of which you’re bound to inhale as you enter. The mesquite provides a low, moist heat that cooks the seafood to perfection. Mesquite-broiled vegetables are a better choice than salad, and the best appetizers are the fresh oysters and broiled shrimp. Just remember: stick with the fresh seafood. (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Brent Place. Lunch customers drive from all over the state to dine in this 106-year-old house in Old City Park. The menu changes weekly; we enjoyed roast beef, corn on the cob, baked beans, coleslaw, bread pudding, muffins and corn bread, plus iced tea, for $6. Brent Place is a nonprofit project of the Dallas Heritage Society and is staffed almost completely by society volunteers. The lunch menu changes weekly, but on weekends the chefs try out new menus and prepare old favorites, (1717 Gano. 421-3057. Lunch seatings: Tue-Fri at 11:15, 12:15 and 1:15: Sat & Sun 11 am-2 pm. Reservations required weekdays. MC, V, AE. $)

Celebration. Nothing fancy, nothing snooty, nothing canned makes its way to your table at this longtime favorite home-style chow house. Specials change daily; and everything we tried was worth celebrating. We went on a Tuesday to give Celebration the acid test: Would the special of the day, chicken-fried steak, be worthy of our (native Texan) digestive juices? Indeed, it was. The gravy was some of the best we’ve tasted, save for Massey’s in Fort Worth and George’s in Waco. The best part of the meal was the smooth, creamy mashed potatoes, obviously made from scratch and seasoned with drippings from the steak. Every entree comes with three vegetables, a huge salad, homemade salad dressing and an assorted basket of rolls. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. Reservations for six or more weekdays and Sun. All credit cards. $$)

Crawdaddy’s. Like all the restaurants owned by J. Alfred Prufrock, Crawdaddy’s is palatably trendy, relatively inexpensive and serves a wide variety of good food. Nothing was sensational, but it quenched our seafood cravings at an exceptionally reasonable price. The Cajun dishes range from bland and gamey (chicken jambalaya) to spicy and hearty (shrimp creole). The combination platter served during lunch is, as advertised, “on the light side,” with one fried shrimp, one fried oyster, one small catfish steak, a crab cake, numerous filler tomato slices and one lonely hush puppy. It was a perfect light, hot midday meal. (2614 McKlnney. 748-2008. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, AE, V. $$)

Highland Park Cafeteria. To dine at this Dallas institution during peak hours can mean waiting in line for as long as 20 minutes. But don’t give up; the line moves quickly and soon you’ll be enticed by the aroma of HPC’s home-style food. HPC offers all kinds of green salads, coleslaw, congealed salads and fresh fruits. Next in line are the entrees: roast beef, fish (baked or fried), casseroles and more. And the vegetables here are actually semi-crisp, not steamed into mush. The assortment of breads and desserts is especially tempting. (467 7 Cole. 526-3809. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun. No liquor. MC, V. $)

Papa Zaby’s Cafe. A cross between Dixie House (up the road) and Little Gus’ (down the street), Papa Zaby’s is a welcome addition to the lower Greenville Avenue area. Breakfasts are noteworthy: fluffy omelets, biscuits, gravy and hashbrowns. At dinnertime, the chicken-fried steak with a bacony country gravy, mashed potatoes and vegetable of the day is entirely satisfying. (27 74 Greenville. 821-4563. Mon-Fri 7:30 am-11 pm, Sat 8 am-11 pm, Sun 10 am-77 pm; brunch: Sat 8 am-2 pm, Sun 10 am-2 pm. All credit cards. $)

Peggy’s Beef Bar. If Snider Plaza has hopes of becoming highbrow (a la Highland Park, a la Rodeo Drive) it has to contend with Peggy’s Beef Bar. And Peggy. This quick-bite barbecue dive, complete with numerous pictures of cattle, offers juicy sandwiches, heaping barbecue plates and some terrific spicy onion rings. But you city slickers stay home; Peggy’s servin’ up the real McCoy. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm, Sat 10:30 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

Sonny Bryan’s. There’s a reason all those people are standing in line in front of this greasy, fly-blown former drive-in: They are praying to the great god of barbecue, and Sonny Bryan is their Moses. They’re waiting for a generous slice of beef in the $1.90 sandwich; for ribs crusty and crinkled on the outside, juicy inside, with a sauce good enough to slurp out of the cardboard basket. They are here for real barbecued meat. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm, Sat 7am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



Bohemia. The owners of this charm-laden little Bavarian restaurant are Czechoslovakian, but the cuisine is not all that different from your favorite German establishment, and odds are that it’s prepared with more care. The menu includes a lot of goulash-style dishes, dumplings, veal and vinegary sauces. Our vegetables were outstanding, cooked perfectly. The sauerkraut, in fact, was the best we’ve ever had. The desserts, too. were homemade -a fluffy cheesecake with real whipped cream and an apple strudel of flaky pastry and tart, plump fruit slices. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Tue-Sun 5:30-11. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)

The Bronx. Pinpointing the ambiance of The Bronx Is not easy-it’s somewhere between soho chic and Southern simplicity. In any case, The Bronx is a great place to sit back, relax and choose from a limited menu of quiches, omelets and salads, or perhaps the meat loaf plate, all of which are sure bets. The Bronx has daily wine specials and some of the best spiced tea around. Service can be a bit slow. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 5:30 pm-12:30 am, Fri 5:30 pm-1:30 am, Sat 5:30 pm-1:30 am; Sunday brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE. $$)

Chips. Basic burgers, with everything necessary to make them good: fresh, lean ground meat, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, mustard and mayonnaise-and a fresh poppy-seed bun. The options include cheese, of course, and double meat. And there’s a taco salad large enough to feed a family of four, and good chili con queso. Service is as fast and friendly as you want it because you order at the counter and pick it up when your name is called. The atmosphere is basic burger joint: loose and relaxed. (4501 N Central Expwy. 526-1092. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

Hoffbrau. We regret heaping more praise upon this much-adored Dallas institution only because the last time we visited, on a Monday night, we waited 30 minutes for a table. But it was no wonder, for we stood in Hoffbrau-that enchanted place where even SMU kids dress like UT kids. The steaks are large, the potatoes are fattening, the beer is cold and the musics loud. Hoffbrau may have made Esquire’s best eats list, but neither prices nor service seems to have suffered. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-1 am, Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Judge Bean’s. Another in a seemingly endless procession of “fat-burger” joints, Judge Bean’s offers serious carnivores a half-pound burger available with almost any imaginable topping from hickory sauce to retried beans, chips, onions and hot sauce. Also worth trying are Bean’s hefty nachos and curlicue French fries. And for the true Texan, there’s the world’s largest hamburger (or so Judge Bean says) -a 4-pound burger consisting of 2 pounds of meat and 2 pounds of fixins-which has to be seen (or perhaps eaten) to be believed. (8214 Park Lane, 363-8322, and 14920 Midway, 980-4400. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-1 am. MC, V, AE. $)

Kobe Steaks. This plush Japanese steakhouse offers combinations of steak, seafood and/or chicken. Beef is the featured attraction, and it is of the highest quality. Dinners come with delicious beef broth, a piquant shrimp appetizer and smooth green tea as well as salad and rice. But the group seating arrangements offer little privacy while you dine. (15000 Quorum Drive at Belt Line off Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. All credit cards. $$$)

The Palm Bar. Nowhere downtown can you find a lighter, lovelier or more innovative meal than at The Palm Bar in the Adolphus Hotel. In addition to such predictable selections as salads and New York deli-style sandwiches, you’ll find lunch variations such as the croissant sandwich with turkey or roast beef and a pot of fresh steamed vegetables dressed with a dab of herb butter. A limited menu is available through cocktail time. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Fri 11 am-3 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Tolbert’s Chili Parlor. Tolbert’s may have left Oak Lawn, but not much else has changed at this chili institution (except the crowd’s gotten even bigger). You’ll still find good mainline Texas cooking-Tolbert’s version of chili (Texas red), burgers with every type of dressing, burritos, hearty fries and superb onion rings-but now you’ll get it served up in an even bigger warehouse-style room with even more chili cookoff photos. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. No reservations. V, MC, AE. $)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. Hallowed has become the name of Angelo’s among devotees of the almighty rib, and for a real taste of Texas, we’ll take the tender, meaty, succulent barbecued ribs served here. For $5,75, you get a pile of ribs, beans, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. Ribs are served after 5 p.m. only. The kitchen closes at 10 p.m., after which the price of beer doubles. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

The Back Porch. A fun place to visit after an afternoon in the park or an hour at the museum. Wholewheat pizzas, a weigh-and-pay salad bar (which, for 16 cents an ounce, includes fresh, juicy hunks of a wide assortment of fruits and a good guacamole salad), three kinds of homemade soup and great heaping ice cream cones make this a favorite spot for Fort Worth diners. (2500 W Berry, (817) 923-0841. Mon-Thur 11 am-9pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. 3400 W Camp Bowie Blvd, 332-3941. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; ice cream Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri & Sat 11-10; Sun, ice cream only. 1-9 pm. No credit cards. $)

The Balcony. Here you’ll find continental cuisine, with specialties such as beef dishes, fried shrimp and veal cordon bleu. The elegant restaurant overlooks bustling Camp Bowie Boulevard and is a good place for relaxed dining and conversation. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)

Benito’s. This is a real Mexican restaurant, not the place for Pancho-style taste buds or first-semester Spanish students. This small, family-run establishment is managed by the daughter of the former headwaiter at Caro’s, and she’s made sure her restaurant’s beans and rice are just as tasty and non-greasy as theirs. But she’s done more: Benito’s serves all sorts of Mexican breakfasts, as well as specialties such as menudo-that’s tripe, in case you don’t know; it’s supposed to be great for hangovers. (1450 W Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Mon-Thur 8 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 8 am-3 am, Sun 8 am-10 pm. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $)

Bill Martin’s. A family seafood restaurant with notable hush puppies and fried, baked and broiled fish of many breeds. The peel-’em-and-eat-’em shrimp is a favorite with regulars. We’ll take the large portion of catfish filets. The newspaper theme is followed in the menus and names of all the “editions.” (2nd Edition. 4004 White Settlement Road: 332-9244. 3rd Edition, 5425 E Lancaster; 451-7220. 4th Edition, 7712 South Freeway; (817) 293-9002. Tandy Edition, 1 Tandy Center; 336-2667. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 4:45-10, Fri 4:45-11, Sat 11-11, Sun 11-10. All credit cards. $$)

Burgundy Tree. This is a pleasant spot for good omelets, crepes, quiches and even an occasional London broil. And the Burgundy Tree’s University Drive location makes it an easy drive from Casa Mariana, Will Rogers or a show on Camp Bowie. (1015 University Dr. (817) 335-2514. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun 1 am-11 pm; Sun brunch: 11-2. V, AE, DC, MC. $$)

Caro’s. A longtime favorite Mexican food outpost, Caro’s offers the best plate of mixed goodies in the Southwest. “Mixed goodies” is Caro-lingo lor tortilla chips piled alternately with cheese and guacamole after being specially fried to puff up instead of sog down. The selection of Mexican dinners at Caro’s pretty much resembles that of any restaurant of its genre, but it’s better. There’s serious spice for those who want it. We like the chicken enchiladas and think the beans are divine. (3505 Blue Bonnet Circle, (817) 927-9948. 5930 Curzon, (817) 737-0304. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 5-10 at Blue Bonnet, and 4:30-10 at Curzon. Closed Mon. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $$)

The Carriage House. This is a refreshing retreat from area steakhouses that are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments. The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but it is relaxed. The tenderloins win best of show, with South African lobster tails, mushroom appetizers and soothing brandy ices vying for second place. (5136 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sunday brunch: 11-2. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Carshon’s Delicatessen. They tell us there isn’t another corned-beef sandwich in Texas like Carshon’s, and, judging by the reputation Carshon’s has held in Fort Worth for 40 years, we tend to agree. This deli-catessen-cum-restaurant offers good split-pea and beef and barley soups and an assortment of kosher-style food. Phone orders are accepted. Catering available in Fort Worth. (3133 Cleburne Road. (817) 923-1907. Tue-Sun 8:30 am-7:30 pm. Closed Mon. No credit cards. $$)

Cattlemen’s. First-time visitors are excited by the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old stockyards area, but the prime steak is the thing that brings them back a second time. Blue-ribbon beeves are displayed to document the superb quality of meat that has been devoured here, but tasting is believing. When the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30 pm, Sat 4:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur. All credit cards. $$$)

Crystal Cactus. The Crystal Cactus, which gets its name from the etched-glass room dividers, is a pleasant repose and an admirable effort to provide quality dining to downtown Fort Worth. The service is proficient and attentive, and the offerings are attractively presented. The rock lobster salad with tarragon dressing is delicious, and the beef tenderloin is equally well-prepared. Interesting luncheon specialties are featured during the week, including a spicy fisherman’s stew. (Hyatt Regency Hotel, 815 Main. (817) 870-1234. Dinner: daily 6-11: Sunday brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations. Jackets and ties required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)

Edelweiss. Edelweiss is a big, joyous beer hall with food. Of course, there are German wines and beers, and a cheese soup as thick as we’ve ever tasted. For entrees, try the sausages in mushroom sauce or the cordon bleu Kartoffein (schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese), which is reputed to be the house specialty. The potato pancakes spiced with onion make a tasty side dish. (3801 -A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations for 10 or more. All credit cards. $$)

Hamp’s Hoffbrau. For years, when you lusted after beef in Cowtown you took your money and your desires to Cattlemen’s. Hamp’s isn’t in the same league and doesn’t aspire to be: but neither is this small, comfortable steak shop overpriced or tourist-infested. So far it’s a good, less-exhausting alternative to an old favorite. The menu is short and includes juicy steaks of several cuts, a chicken breast, a shish kebab and grilled onions. (215 University, 334-0003. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hoummus bit-tahini (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts)? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener, ” says the menu, and we believe it. The bread is baked while you watch. (3308 Fairfield, Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. This Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex serves up superior family-style Mexican staples and industrial-strength margaritas that are champions. You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, guacamole, tortillas and, if you must, nachos. No questions. No substitutions. That’s it. But it’s the best, and it makes for an inherently good time. Time after time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. Reservations for 20 or more. No credit cards. $$)



Kincaid’s. This west Fort Worth grocery store serves, almost as an afterthought, the best hamburger in the state of Texas. Kincaid’s cooks more than 1,200 a day, but each seems to taste as if your mother toiled over a skillet preparing it. Greasy? Of course. But they are the best-tasting, juiciest, meatiest burgers you’ll ever wrap your hands around. That’s why businessmen in three-piece suits are more than willing to stand in line at the noon hour for a chance to grab one of these delightful burgers, a bag of potato chips and a Dr Pepper from the machine. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881 Mon-Sat 10 am-6:15 pm. No credit cards. $)



London House. Many a prom date, graduate, newly engaged and golden-aged couple have celebrated at the London House. The steaks and chicken are tender and flavorful- The crab, too, is tender and moist. The soup and salad bar, always a strong point, has gotten even better with the addition of items such as watermelon chunks, (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

L’Oustau. In this pleasant, open room with lots of skylights, French-accented waiters bring forth a fine selection of continental food. The best offerings include the lamb chops (served in a delicate sauce) and the coq au vin, which evokes memories of real country cooking in Burgundy. Try a strawberry tart, which comes with a layer of custard and a thin crust of chocolate. Or, if you’re into self-denial, limit yourself to one fresh strawberry dipped in chocolate. (300 Main Street. (817) 332-8900. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations are recommended. MC, V; personal checks accepted. $$$$)

Old Swiss House. From your arrival when the parking valet assures you that he will not need a name to remember which car is yours to the likely visit of the chef to your table, you will be coddled all evening.The lamb chops and the cherries jubilee are awe-inspiring, and the veal Oscar and King Edward broil(a beef filet) are quite good. You don’t have to dressup here, but the service and attention shown by thestaff will make you feel as though your dinner is aspecial occasion. (5412 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-8091. Mon-Thur 6-10 pm, Fri & Sat 6-10:30 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

River House. This welcome spot considerablylessens the pain in a city aching for reasonablypriced yet digestible seafood. The seafood platter isa delightful sampling of shrimp, oysters, fish anddeviled crab. And the assorted shore dinners, whichinclude an appetizer, salad, entree, drink and dessert (try the Key lime pie), are a worthy catch. (1660S University. (817) 336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2;dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Reservationsfor six or more. All credit cards. $$)

Zeke’s. This smaller sister-restaurant of The Hop(it’s run by the same family) was for many years happily located next to Freak Imports and is run by whatis a minority in Cowtown: longhaired, freaky people.The kind that need not apply at other, stuffierestablishments. We love Zeke’s longhairs, but thething that keeps us coming back is the golden, crispbatter that coats almost everything Zeke’s serves.It’s greasy in the most delightful of ways, and thefact that orders of fried fish, mushrooms, okra andzucchini look a lot alike doesn’t make them boring,just uniformly superb. (5920 Curzon. 731-3321. Sun-Thur 11-11; Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. No checks, nocredit cards. $)

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