Taste & Take. Mrs. Hugh Davis, owner of this homey little diner and takeout operation on Greenville Avenue, wouldn’t admit it herself, but we suspect that her business philosophy is that people are tired of red beans and chicken-fried steak. Her homemade ham and chicken salads, four kinds of homemade bread and delicious desserts (try the apricot or raspberry squares) offer a lighter, healthier alternative to weighty midday meals. And with Mrs. Davis herself buzzing around, making sure all her customers feel at home, the atmosphere is as refreshing as the homemade fried flour tortilla chips are addictive. Menus change each week and vary from Cornish game hen to chicken and dumplings. Hill Country preserves, chowchow, homemade dressings, mustards and breads are for sale, and T&T offers gourmet takeout food, catering and free delivery for orders of $25 or more. (4509 Greenville. 691-5161. Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat 11 a.m.-3p.m. Reservations. AE, personal checks accepted. $$)
Clouseau. We wanted so much to fall in love with Clouseau, the latest contribution to what we’ll call the chic-ing of Lower Greenville, or better, the greening of Lower Chicville. We wanted to be swept away by the arresting pink lame walls, the sparse surroundings and, of course, la nouvelle cuisine. We wanted too much. Clouseau, which takes its name from Inspector Clouseau of the Pink Panther movies, makes a bold stab at a variety of dining experiences -playful yet serious – but it just misses the mark. The menu, to be fair, is one of the most inventive we’ve seen: lobster with grapefruit as an appetizer; salmon with cranberry sauce as an entrée; kiwi parfait for dessert, to name just three of Clouseau’s 20-odd offerings. But the strength of the cuisine is matched by its inconsistency, and the overall feel of Clouseau is awkward. We began our meal with the green salad, which was chock-full of mache, French olives and pine nuts spread over endive and red lettuce with a smooth honey-vinegar dressing. The salad was surprisingly light but not special. Our leek salad was notable for the frothy, light hollandaise, but trying to cut through the very stringy, thick, onionlike vegetables was almost impossible. Both entrees we tried -medallions of lamb with pepper sauce, and lotte (a fish that tastes a bit like lobster) with saffron sauce and snow peas – were delicious and beautifully arranged on our plates. The kiwi parfait, which consisted of a mildly tangy kiwi sorbet floating in a bowl of whipped cream and topped with kiwi slices, was very refreshing. The fresh fruit tart -we chose strawberry-was superb, with lots of thick cream, and was large enough for at least two people. But Clouseau’s attractive art deco church pew booths aren’t terribly comfortable, and our service was slow and less than pampering. One last complaint: We heard the same song- Why Me? by Planet P, wafting in from the jukebox in Clouseau’s adjoining bar-no less than 11 times. These few kinks keep an otherwise appealing French restaurant from being Tres bien. (2100 Greenville. 828-2131. Lunch: Tue-Sat noon-2:30; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-midnight; Sun brunch: 11-3. Closed Mon. AE. $$$)
Michel. Jean Claude’s younger brother moved from Dallas to Fort Worth last September to make a name for himself. And he has done just that in smashing five-star fashion. His beautiful new restaurant, Michel, is almost perfect. We stumbled in one night foolishly unaware of the treat in store for us in this renovated Camp Bowie house with upholstered walls, stained-glass windows and country-style drapes. We were seated at a linenclothed table set with tapers and fresh flowers; it was easily large enough for the four-course bounty of food to come. We tried some moist, rich duck and a thick cut of beef for our entrees, which were preceded by a hot, homemade fish pate. The assorted fresh vegetables were artistically arranged and crisp, as was the Boston lettuce salad. For dessert, we chose chocolate and strawberry soufflds, both fluffy masterpieces. The wine list at Michel is extravagantly vast – we declined to order the Chateau Latour Pavillac 1945, although it was a sure bargain at $850. Congratulations to Fort Worth for introducing a restaurant that’s elegant enough to outshine most of Dallas’ finest. (3851 Camp Bowie, Fort Worth. 732-1231. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat sea tings at 6 and 9. Lunch is prix fixe at $13.50; dinner is $29.50. All credit cards. $$$$)
Deacon’s Steak House. Were this Los Angeles or the Florida Keys, we wouldn’t expect an abundance of thick, juicy steaks. But this is Dallas, for heaven’s sake, and our city is dreadfully short on steakhouses of merit. We’re in favor of anyone who wants to try his hand at a serious steak restaurant, and we think Deacon’s, which takes its title from owner M. Zimmerman’s nickname, may be on the right track: It’s got high-back booths, ceiling fans and inlaid wooden tables; the waitresses are friendly and seem legitimately Texan. And the menu offers steaks of every size and cut as well as grilled onions and baked or fried potatoes. But ole Deacon needs to work on his hot wheat rolls (they were too chewy and were barely warm). He needs to be sure that his baked potatoes arrive piping hot in order to melt the ice cream-size scoops of butter and sour cream. And he should have seen to it that the puddles of lemon butter around our too-rare medium steaks weren’t quite so cold and watery. And, like most Dallas steakhouses, the best thing about Deacon’s isn’t its steak; best of show goes to the raspberry and espresso cheesecakes, homemade by an avowed non-Texan, a South African woman named Rene Foreman. Deacon’s has set the stage for an above average steakhouse. With a little more attention given to quality, it could soon give Hoffbrau a run for its money. (4820 Greenville. 361-2924. Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun 4:30-10 p.m. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Crossroads Steakhouse. This mostly gay Oak Lawn restaurant is another place that is taking a stab at serious steak, but Crossroads is opting for relaxing piano music and a modern molded ceiling instead of Texan decor. (The ceiling fan motif may be a bit overdone.) One cut of meat we tried was slow in coming, but once it arrived we enjoyed a very tender 8-ounce filet wrapped in bacon. But the accompanying toast was obviously burned, and the French fries were limp and unspectacular. The 8-ounce rib eye that we ordered medium rare arrived blue. Upon request, the chef cheerfully cooked it a little more, but that didn’t help -it still tasted as though it had spent one too many days in a refrigerated truck. Crossroads also offers a fresh salad bar as well as fried mushrooms and zucchini, which are coated in a greaseless hush-puppylike batter served with a Ranch-style dressing. (3903 Cedar Springs. 559-4380. Daily 11-11. AE, MC, V. $$)
Cafe Rincon. This breezy 6-month-old Mexican restaurant is several cuts above what we’ve grown to expect from establishments on Harry Hines. But since owner John Rinc6n grew up just across the alley from his new cafe, he had high hopes for a comfortable restaurant that would offer more than beans and enchiladas. So far, he’s been successful. The colorful posters and music (which varies from New Wave and jazz to Bandito Marching Band) makes the mood just right for a couple of margaritas and a basket or two of chips. The menu includes all the Tex-Mex you could want, as well as some fancier fish and steak offerings. The Cam-arones Bohemia (beer-batter shrimp) were large and tasty (John says that if you’re on a diet, his father -the chef-can fry them in Miller Lite). Cafe Rinc6n’s tortilla soup is an edible grab bag of goodies. The patio can accommodate 100; we expect it to stay full all summer. (2818 Harry Hines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.
$ Generally Inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.
$$$$ Very expensive.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express. DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
EUROPEAN
Agnew’s. Agnew’s is known as one of the city’s poshest restaurants, but our idea of elegant dining apparently differs from that of the Agnew’s management. The atmosphere is elegant, to a point- the colors are rich; the walls are covered with dark wood paneling; a fireplace adorns a far wall. But if elegance is synonymous with intimacy, the atmosphere here is lacking. Our waiter was friendly, efficient and helpful with menu selections-all welcome traits for waiters-but somehow, his too-chummy attitude didn’t seem to mesh with the tone that the management is trying to achieve. Our cream of yellow pepper soup was perfect. The spinach salad with bleu cheese and bacon dressing was good, but, surprisingly, the dressing was smooth- not chunky. The smoked salmon appetizer was the only disappointment on the menu. But the tourne-dos of beef were excellent-the sauce was light in color and flavor; the meat was tender and cooked to perfection. The veal, served in a similar creamy sauce, was also excellent. The vegetables, too, were a bit disappointing-the asparagus was bitter, and the potato souffle was too garlicky. Desserts are Agnew’s specialty and, oh, are they tempting! The white-chocolate mousse is a masterpiece. (15501 Dallas N Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza, Suite 300. 458-0702. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat seatings at 6:30 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)
Bagatelle. Dallas abounds with beautiful restaurants and good food, but rarely is excellence the rule of thumb. Bagatelle, however, seems comfortable with quality. The menu offers some out-of-the-ordinary fowl entrees such as stuffed quail and Long Island duckling. We enjoyed several large, meaty shrimp in garlic butter in the crevettes Bagatelle. The beef is tender and especially good when served with artichoke hearts and sliced mushrooms or when flambeed with cognac and pepper sauce. And the chocolate mousse “flavored” with ama-retto was quite the final act. (4925 Greenville. 692-8224 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sunday brunch: 10:30-2. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
The Bay Tree. Twice during the first 10 minutes of our visit to the Wyndham Hotel’s gourmet restaurant, we heard waiters apologize for its miniscule size. Regardless, we enjoyed a beautifully prepared rack of lamb that was artistically arranged in quarter-size slices around a tomato stuffed with egg-plant. The meat was cooked to perfection-crisp on the outside and juicy toward the middle. The special New York sirloin was also beautifully presented in red wine sauce topped with tender morels. The double-fudge cake served with orange sauce was rich and creamy. (The Wyndham Hotel, 2222 Stem-mons. 631-2222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch: 11-3. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Bohemia. The owners of this charm-laden little Bavarian restaurant are Czechoslovakian, but the cuisine is not all that different from your favorite German establishment, and the odds are that it’s prepared with more care. The menu includes many goulash-style dishes, dumplings, veal and vinegary sauces. Our vegetables were outstanding, cooked perfectly. The sauerkraut, in fact, was the best we’ve ever had. The desserts, loo, were homemade -a fluffy cheesecake with real whipped cream and an apple strudel of flaky pastry and tart, plump fruit slices. (2810 N Henderson. 826-6209. Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30 pm. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)
Cafe Capri. Cafe Capri is another of the Old World-charming, standardly continental new kids in town. Its parking lot is filled with expensive cars; its coat room overflows with expensive fur coats; and its diners leave filled with high-quality cuts of beef, veal, fish or fowl. But Cafe Capri is belter than most newcomers of its genre. The sauces for our entrees were prepared at our table, and although we were a bit nervous as we watched our waiter submerge a beautiful steak Diane in thick brown sauce, we were relieved and delighted to taste the light blend of red wine, cream, mushrooms, shallots, Dijon mustard and Worcestershire sauce. One dessert alone made the drive to Addison worthwhile: Although the waiter bragged on the chocolate rum cake and the Grand Marnier souffle, we insisted on strawberries flambe. The mixture of fresh berries, orange rind, brown sugar and Grand Marnier topped with whipped cream was spectacular. (15107 Addison Road, north of Belt Line. 960-8686. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$)
Calluaud’s. Martine and Guy Calluaud have resumed their lunch service at the home location on McKinney Avenue, and it’s just like old times. The luncheon salads are as elegant as ever, and the lamb chops with French fries have returned to Mc-Kinney perfectly intact. So have the omelets, which are beautifully served with haricot verts and shredded carrots. And dinner at Calluaud’s is still one of Dallas’ most sensual experiences. From the expertly assembled champagne cocktails to the excellent decaffeinated coffee, everything is orchestrated with quiet perfection. We began with pheasant pate with pistachio and truffles en croute-delectable and subtle-followed by the house salad (asparagus, tomato, artichoke hearts and avocado on a bed of lettuce, covered with a Dijon mustard dressing). Next, the entrees: duck with two sauces (mushroom and bearnaise with tomato), grilled sea bass in tomato sauce with basil, filet en croute in madeira sauce with truffles, and tournedos. All were impeccably prepared and artfully served. For dessert: souffles-what else? (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10pm, Fri & Sat seatings at7& 9:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V. AE. $$$$)
Enjolie. We doubt that an entire week at a health spa could be as relaxing and soothing as one meal at Enjolie. The atmosphere is clean and crisp, as is the service. And the food? It is superb. For an appetizer, the escargot is unusually prepared-the snails are in a small dish of garlic butter, and each is individually wrapped in pastry. The cream of artichoke heart soup, served cold, is creamy and very rich. Our only complaint is that bits of the artichoke were left in the soup. For an entree, the veal is unmatched-tender and cooked to perfection. The menu is filled with exotic offerings such as pheasant mousse and roasted pigeon. Desserts are preceded by a complimentary cheese tray to clear the palate and are followed by chocolate truffles, also complimentary. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Las Colinas Blvd. Irving. 556-0800. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Sat 6-midnight. Reservations, All credit cards. $$$$)
The French Room. The French Room retains its status as the crowning glory among fine Dallas restaurants. The quality of cuisine is, to date, unrivaled. In fact, while savoring succulent braised lobster and tenderloin of lamb, we doubted we could have fared better. The French Room’s management makes sure that along with its superb cuisine comes service that aims to make each diner feel like a member of the first estate. And although the menu selections hold their own, it’s probably best to order from among the specials. We ordered each course of our meal from among the specials of the day and were never disappointed The duck salad was large enough to have been a meal in itself; every sumptuous bite was heavenly. For dessert, the fruit melange topped with a creamy sauce and the tart raspberry pastry served in a caramel sauce were wonderful, but perhaps too rich. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200, ext 191. Mon-Sat 6-10 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards $$$$)
Frenchy Cafè. This is as close as you’ll come in Dallas to a Parisian cafe. Standards include baguette and butter croissant sandwiches, quiche and soups. The salads are outstanding, but the pates are the best examples of Frenchy’s skill. (5940 Royal. 369-1235. Mon 11 am-3 pm, Tue-Fri 11 am-7pm. Sat 11 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. $)
Galle. Everything from the atmosphere to the after-dinner coffee in this Lincoln Radisson Hotel restaurant was near perfection. For appetizers, the shining star is the cold hors d’oeuvres tray; and although it is quite expensive for an appetizer ($14), it is truly a treat. The watercress salad with walnut oil is very simple but is perhaps the most elegant salad offering. More than 15 entrees are offered, including seafood, fowl, rabbit and beef The sweetbreads with morels we tasted were fabulous-tender, flavorful and served in a smooth brown sauce. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 934-8400 Mon-Fri 6-11 pm. Sat 6-11:30 pm. Reservations requested. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
The Garden Court. This Melrose restaurant proves that with age can come beauty and grace. The 59-year-old hotel has been born again, and its mix of art deco and traditional styling makes for a cheery lunch or a romantic dinner. The rich, moist fudge nut cake makes it difficult to choose a sensible entree, but a bowl of seafood chowder crowded with great hunks of fish and fresh vegetables and a crisp Garden Court salad make a perfect lunch. (3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151 Breakfast: Mon-Fri 6:30-11; lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10. Fri & Sat 6:30-11, Sun 6:30-9; brunch: Sat 6:30-2:30, Sun 7-3. Reservations recommended for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)
Hearthstone Manor. Believe it or not, it’s a good idea to get in your car in traffic-clogged Dallas and drive the 30 or so minutes it will take to wind up (in hopes of winding down) on Main Street in Lewisville. The food at Hearthstone is basic and wonderful, for the most part. The hot, homemade bread is hard to beat, and Hearthstone serves a variety of muffins and rolls. Steamy baked potatoes in full dress and all-American entrees such as filet mignon, shrimp, snapper and veal make for a wholesome, memorable meal. (208 E Main, Lewisville. 221-4515. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. MC, V. AE. DC. $$$)
The Inn at Country Sonshine. The inn is an intimate, graceful little spot at Preston Road and FM Road 544 on the southwest side of Piano. Its menu is an ambitious one-from duckling a I’orange to veal specialties. Most of the time, the chef’s skills are up to his visions, but occasionally he misses. We had a veal and crab meat dish that, while good, just didn’t have the zing needed to make it really first-class. The duckling, on the other hand, was perfect-the orange sauce provided just the right touch of sweetness. It was hit-and-miss with the vegetables, too- the salsify was delicious; the broccoli in Chinese bread crumbs, too salty. (1933 Preston. Piano. 596-0903. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30;dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10, Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards. $$$)
Jean Claude. There is an obvious explanation for the incredible popularity of the pleasant, “terribly French” Jean Claude restaurant. Quite simply, it is Jean Claude himsell. Besides being a consistently gifted chef. Jean Claude’s personal warmth spreads from his open cook station throughout the tiny dining room, engendering good will and cleansing the air of pretension. Our selections were light, beautiful to look at and practically flawless. A hot crab and lobster salad with vinaigrette and tresh dill along with the scallops en casserole proved wise beginnings, especially with hearty helpings of hot, home-made wheat bread. Our next indulgences were duckling in ginger and soy sauce and flown-fresh Dover sole in a white wine sauce with mushrooms. The duck was superb, and the sole was good, if a little dull. After cleansing our palates with slightly tart greens, we launched into the chocolate mousse and hot chocolate souffle. At a fixed price of $31.50 a head, Jean Claude’s is worth every penny. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 & 9 pm. Reservations. MC, V, AC, DC. $$$$)
Jennivine. Although the atmosphere is British, Jennivine offers a lovely selection of pates, French wines and cheeses from various countries. The dinner menu, which is written on a blackboard, varies according to the fresh seafood that is available. Tender sea scallops and filet of sole are excellent. Service is friendly and sometimes British-accented. (3605 McKinney. 528-60)0. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
La Vieille Varsovie (The Old Warsaw). After dining at The Old Warsaw, it’s easy to see why those who can afford to be coddled are. The Old Warsaw is an old-line dining establishment dripping in reputation and tradition, plus a few eccentricities-note the pink flamingos dancing gaily across the forest green walls. Hear the gentle blending of violin and piano as the music drifts delicately across the spacious room. Watch the multitudinous captains and waiters weave in and out of tables, attending to napkins that need placing, cigarettes that need lighting, pheasants that need carving. But in the midst of all the theatrics, it can be extremely difficult to keep one’s mind decidedly on one’s meal. The artichoke heart appetizer with shrimp and raspberry vinaigrette tasted a trifle boring, with nary a hint of raspberry. But the fresh seafood soup fared better, as did our entrees-poached Dover sole with shrimp in lobster sauce, and veal with mushrooms. Both were as tender as one would hope, served in generous portions and accompanied by light, smooth vegetable timbales. After a brief pause (long enough to witness an unbelievable flaming drink production), strawberries in fresh cream and a chocolate souffle were perfect endings. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$$)
Le Boul’ Mich. Since French cuisine has become almost daily fare with /’Anglais, a glimpse at Le Boul’ Mich’s sparse menu is hardly surprising: pate maison, quiche Lorraine and omelet after omelet. But each of these items is exceedingly well-prepared, particularly the Omelette Boul’ Mich, which is filled with every variety of garden vegetable. A light, romantic dinner at Le Boul’ Mich is delightful, but the patio and indoor porch of this little white house make it an irresistible luncheon spot as well.(2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required lor dinner. MC, V, AE. $$)
Le Cassoulel. This pretty, country-French restaurant is what NorthPark’s china and kitchenware boutique, Piccadilly Fair, would look like if it served dinner. Le Cassoulet’s specialty, country cassoulet (a combination of lamb, beef, sausage, herbs and white pinto beans), was too salty and gamey. Other entrees were only average. Our overall impression is that Le Cassoulet has an unusual and pleasing atmosphere but should concentrate a little more on perfecting its menu. (Amlac Hotel, east tower. 453-8400. Hours vary, but are usually 6-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
L’Entrecote. The dining experience here is exalted to the utmost-each table is attended by a captain, a waiter, as many as three assistants and a wine steward. Happily, the cuisine is on a par with the rich, subtle surroundings. The delicately seasoned escargots topped with light pastry were some of the best we’ve ever tasted. And the terrine of pheasant with pistachios complemented by mandarin oranges was smooth and slightly tart. The waiter displayed deft skill in preparing the wilted spinach salad with walnuts; it was a perfect blend of sweet and sour. For the finishing touch, the white and dark chocolate mousse was sinfully rich. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2:30; dinner: daily 6-10:30. Reservations required for dinner. V, AE, DC, CB $$$$)
Le Rendez Vous. What a compliment to our city that we can eat a romantic, candle-lit dinner at a pleasant French bistro and deem it only average. Such is the case at Le Rendez Vous. The menu is ambitious-including unusual selections such as cream of green bean soup and a tantalizing selection of five dessert souffles. The service was a little too lax, and at times the waiters seemed more interested in talking to each other than in waiting tables. The McKinney Avenue location is exactly what everyone in Dallas wants-a sidewalk cafe- but for the money, we’ve had better food. The scallops were inexcusably tough and tasteless, and the shish kebab and rice was so salty we could feel our arteries squeezing shut. Although the crab au gratin appetizer was perfect and the vegetables were tender and fresh, the souffles were disappointing- they looked gorgeous but were lacking in taste and soul. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Lunch: Tue-Fri & Sun 11-2: dinner: Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30 pm-2 am. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Le St. Tropez. Le St. Tropez calls itself a bistro, and that’s as good a description as any. The atmosphere is informal and relaxed. The menu features some bistro basics-croque monsieur, croissant sandwiches and omelets-as well as more complicated entries such as coq au vin and seafood dishes. We tried a rare roast beef special served with horse-radish that was tender and flavorful. On the appetizer side, we liked the pate served with cornichons and fresh tomato, as well as the cold cucumber soup. LeSt.Tropez isn’t fancy. but it serves up good, basic French food at reasonable prices. (Northwood Hills Shopping Center. 8030 Spring Valley at Coit. 231-6181. Mon-Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Les Saisons. Within a setting resembling turn-of-the-century suburban Paris, Les Saisons serves meals that are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent We enjoyed shrimp Les Saisons (shrimp served in a delicious cream sauce with chablis, mushrooms and shredded carrots) and coquille St. Jacques, tiny bay scallops served with orange quarters. The cream of cauliflower soup was unexceptional, but we were warmly reassured by a bowl of onion soup topped with lots of chewy, stringy cheese. (765 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Manhattan. The menu features the safe bets of continental dining, but the chef has come up with some simple, elegant variations We began with smoked salmon and mushroom caps stuffed with crab meat Next came veal Manhattan, lightly breaded and tender scallops of veal covered with crab legs and shrimp, then lopped with bearnaise. We also sampled sole Rebecca, a breaded fish topped with a sauce of mushrooms, pimentos, shallots and capers. (1482 Preston Forest Square. 385-8221. Lunch: daily 11-3; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
The Mansion. It’s fine to have enough money to do as one pleases-to dine in all the best restaurants and wear all the right clothes, but if ever the gorgeous spread that the Mansion consistently brings forth leaves you feeling blasé, it’s time to seek counseling. Once we were seated comfortably in a dining room replete with molded ceilings and rich wood furnishings, the music of squeaking wine corks and laughter set us at ease. We began our meal with a salad of lump crab meat in a lobster dressing set on a bed of three kinds of lettuce. When our salad tasted less than superior, we were vaguely disappointed. But the wild, meaty mushrooms in flaky puff pastry that followed were delicious and all but redeemed the Mansion. We sampled a huge, perfectly grilled salmon steak and a crisp serving of asparagus with hollandaise sauce. A broccoli mousse that came with the salmon was difficult to recognize as broccoli but was nonetheless tasty. We also tried the tenderloin strip, which, our waiter informed us, automatically comes medium rare. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30; lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2; brunch: Sat noon-2:30 & Sun 11-2:30; tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-mid-night, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)
Maple Street East. This handsome Victorian house has been a favorite dining spot since it opened, even though the food was a little uneven at first. Now all that’s straightened out, and Maple Street East is consistently good. The salads are delicious, and the fettuccine verde is especially good for lunch, as is the crab, bacon and avocado sandwich. For dinner, try the tournedos, with English trifle for dessert. (2508 Maple. 698-0345. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30; Sun brunch 11:30-2:30. MC. V. AE. $$$)
Maitre D’. This relaxing uptown establishment may soon rival the longtime greats downtown if it keeps on its toes. The elegant burgundy-and-brown decor and perfect, well-timed service instantly put us at ease, and the food was far from average. One of the specials the night we visited included individual medallions of veal, chicken and beef. We expected far too much meat and too few vegetables but thought that ordering this entree would fulfill our obligation to sample everything we could possibly digest. We were happy with all three and ate every bite. The vegetables were lightly cooked and held much of their natural flavor. (5290 Belt Line 239-2799. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Mozart’s. Mozart’s is the newest of the Deutsch in Dallas, and it gives the city’s best (Belvedere or The Chimney, depending on the phase of the moon) a new challenge. The rinder lendenschnitte habsburg, a forgivably tough filet mignon topped with tasty goose liver and juicy mushrooms, was very filling, and the combination of flavors was extraordinary. The cordon bleu consisted of a delicate crust and tender veal. And the side dishes at Mozart’s were served in wonderfully ample German portions. We enjoyed mixed marinated vegetables and fresh spat-zle (sauteed noodles). (Sheraton Park Central. 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)
ETHIOPIAN
The Blue Nile. Don’t be intimidated by the names of the menu items here; almost everything is stewlike, spicy and good. Expect the unexpected: The food is served on pizza pans, and no silverware is provided. In Ethiopia, you eat with the right hand, and injera (Ethiopian bread that is spongy and tastes slightly sour) is used as an eating utensil. For the newcomer, The Blue Nile’s combination plate offers an extensive sampling of traditional dishes including minchet abesh (finely chopped spiced beef), zilzil tibs (beef strips fried with a tangy sauce) and misser wott (lentil stew with herbs). (7242 Gaston. 324-0471. Tue-Sun noon-midnight. Closed Mon. MC. V. AE. $)
The Red Sea. The Oak Lawn area has just about everything, including one of Dallas’ Ethiopian restaurants. Here you can dine on such exotic-sounding items as doro wott (chicken spiced with hot pepper), yebeg wott (lamb stew with spiced butter and herbs) and potatoes and carrots cooked in curry. (2926 Oak Lawn. 528-8476. Daily 10-11. DC; personal checks accepted. $)
QOURMET CARRYOUT
Beauregard’s. This tiny gourmet carryout/Euro-pean-style grocery carries a varied selection of fresh vegetables from around the world, homemade jams and jellies and an assortment of fresh-baked breads. In addition, owner Beauregard Detterman prepares meat pies to heat at home, ready-to-go pasla salads, pates and desserts. On one visit, we sampled a chicken pie with bell pepper, onion, tomato and zucchini, all topped with mozzarella. When heated, the pie was a juicy blend of flavors that made a filling meal. The duck liver pate was a smooth, creamy and rich side dish. To finish the meal, we chose Beauregard’s dessert specialty: a chocolate cake made with French and Austrian chocolate marinated four days. This cake is for chocaholics only. (4603 W Lovers Lane. 351-0378 Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $$$)
Mirabelle. Mirabelle’s menu varies daily and is incredibly inventive. The pistachio-spiced country terrine is an excellent pale. Salads are offered in a wide range of combinations. A good standby is the tarragon chicken salad, and there’s always a pasta salad or two, some with seafood or meat. We tried a mixture of baby shells, peas and ham seasoned with fresh basil, which was very good if you really love basil. Mirabelle’s crowning achievements are its desserts. The fresh plum and apple tarts are excellent, as is the sour-cream cheesecake offered with a peach melba sauce. The cookies and bran muffins are tops and are well worth their hefty price. (7374 Highland Park Village. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm; Sun & Mon noon-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)
The Winery. Amid the vast wine stock at this shop adjacent to Jean Claude is a display case full of edible goodies perfect for eating in or carrying out. The emphasis is on freshly prepared salads and desserts, home-baked breads and cheeses-including hard-to-find varieties such as mozzarella rolled with prosciutto. Caterer Nancy Beckham will make sandwich or cheese trays, antipasto plates, dips and hors d’oeuvres for parties-or you can sample her hearty soups and sandwiches with a glass of wine on the spot. (2404 Cedar Springs at Maple. 749-0250 Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm. Sun noon-6 pm. Wine tasting every Sun 4:30-6 pm. MC. V. AE. $$$)
INDIAN
Sahib. Every time we go to Sahib were delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor and the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Maharaja Sahib’s Mughlai Biryani is our favorite dish-lamb cooked with herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs. It tastes even better with some sweet mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread). Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so remember that you can turn down the “Elephant’s Memory” (a pina coladalike drink) and the mango ice cream, but enjoy the advice-the waiters will tell you exactly what to expect from each dish. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:45; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)
Tanjore. At this small North Dallas Indian restaurant, the Middle Eastern mood comes through loud and clear with piped-in Hindi music and the tastes and smells of curry, cumin, cinnamon and coriander. Tanjore offers a large selection of vegetarian dishes, poultry, seafood and lamb and beef specialties We settled on an order of lamb mugali (chunks of tender lamb in a creamy sauce with nuts) and shahi korma (boneless chicken cooked in curry with butter, cream and almonds). The sauce was spiced mildly -but not meekly-in both dishes. For something unusual, try a Tanjorita: a soothing whipped yogurt drink. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 960-0070. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat 11:30-3; Sun brunch: 11:30-3; dinner: daily 6-10. BYOB; setups available. All credit cards. $$)
ITALIAN
Bugatti. Bugatti offers consistently superior home-made pasta, the quintessential element for any good Italian restaurant. But Bugatti goes far beyond that. The chef handles veal as well as any of his Dallas contemporaries, and the homemade soups are among the best in the city. Other standouts include the tortellini alla crema (homemade doughnut-shaped pasta shells stuffed with veal and engulfed in a rich white cream sauce), the crab cannelloni and the fettuccine della casa. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)
Campisi’s. In a dark room lined with celebrity photos is served the food that has made Campisi’s a Dallas institution. Veal marsala with rich mushroom sauce, fettuccine, garlic toast and Campisi’s famous rectangular pizza all exemplify solid Italian cooking at bargain prices. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat 11-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Caruso’s. If you like arias with your antipasto, Caruso’s singing waiters will gladly oblige you. The Italian selections include basic pasta and veal dishes, and steaks are available. Wine lovers will appreciate Caruso’s bottomless glass, and lovers will enjoy the candle-lit booths. (706 Medallion Center. Northwest Hwy at Skillman. 691-9944. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm. Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Cremona Ristorante Italiano. Park your car on the dead-end street, wind your way around the little junque stores, find a table near a window and prepare yourself for a no-nonsense Italian meal. The ladder-back chairs, wooden blinds and starched white tablecloths lend country-inn romance. The pasta is homemade, and the sauces are innovative, delicate and subtle. You’ll relish the fresh butter and cream flavors. (3136 Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)
Fabio’s. If Fabio’s isn’t the first name that comes to mind when you think of Italian restaurants in Dallas, it may be because of its awkward location in the Corner Shopping Center. This shouldn’t be a concern, however, because Fabio’s offers fine Italian fare and highly attentive service. Tagliarini Belleza (pasta tossed in a combination of mushrooms and seafood) and Tagliarini al Saimone (pasta in a salmon sauce) make it tempting to stick with the pasta, but the veal and seafood dishes, particularly the sole Mugnaia (filet of sole in lemon and butter sauce), are well worth a detour. (The Corner Shopping Center, 9820 N Central Expwy, Suite 504. 987-3226 Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations. MC. V. AE. $$$)
La Tosca. This is not the fanciest nor the most expensive Italian restaurant in Dallas, but it may be one of the best. The elegant black-and-white tiles and black-and-white striped shirts of the waiters give the restaurant just the right touch of class. The rest is left to the food, which is deftly prepared and served. We enjoyed some fine, tender beef and red snapper as well as several different kinds of delicious, piping hot pasta The cheesecake is more cakelike than the kind most Dallasites are familiar with, but it was very good, (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Tue-Thur & Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)
Lurtlno’s. The atmosphere at Lurtino’s is fairly posh, but the waiters aren’t stuffy We began our meal with a wonderful house specialty, sausage and peppers neopolitan. Another good bet is the scungilli Genovese (snails sauteed in a cream sauce). The house salad is the typical lettuce and tomatoes, but the entrees are grand. A fine selection of pastas is available, the best of which is the tagliarini with white clam sauce. Lurtino’s also offers a number of veal dishes. Desserts get mixed reviews. (13601 Preston Road, Suite 22. 661-9766. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Mario’s. Out of the vein of most pizzeria-style Italian eateries, Mario’s offers first-rate, napkin-placing, cigarette-lighting service and food. Above-average pasta, veal entrees and sauces are fitting preludes to dessert, possibly one of Mario’s fine souffles. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30pm, Fri&Sat6-11 pm. Reser vations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)
P.J.’ Ristorante. Don’t judge P. J.’s by its shopping center neighbors or its discolike front wall. Inside, soft lights, cordial service and sumptuous home-made pasta beckon. The pasta Giovanni (named after the son of P. J.’s owner Papa Jack) is a pasta lover’s fantasy. The heaping plate offers spaghetti, ravioli, manicotti, meatballs, lasagna and sausage. It’s almost impossible to finish-but great fun to try. (5410 E Mockingbird. 824-1490. Daily: 5-10pm or, on weekends, as late as necessary. V, AE. $$)
Prego Pasta House. As can be determined after a glance at the menu, the owner of Prego. Joe Bar-raco, is also the manager of Campisi’s. And in many cases, we found the food at Prego to be similar to Campisi’s, but the atmosphere and service are generally better. For appetizers, the artichoke hearts and scampi were passable although a bit blah-not much garlic or imagination-but the fried provolone was excellent. As a general rule of thumb, order the authentic Italian specialties; they’re all top-notch. The veal parmigiana is excellent, as is the lasagna. Pizza is the same as Campisi’s: a thin, tasty crust with oodles of rich, thick Italian topping. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Sergio and Luciano. The setting here is not altogether satisfying-it’s half upstairs, half downstairs, and most of the action is on the upper floor. But the food is superb. Calamari-fried at lunch and served in a hot, spicy broth as an appetizer at dinner-is ex-cellent. So is the tortellini alia panna, offered as a first course in small portions that leave room for more. If you want pasta, you can’t do better than the fettuccine with white clam sauce. The vegetables are carefully prepared, and Sergio and Luciano serves real Italian hard rolls. (4900 Belt Line, Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
Sergio’s. Seven fine veal dishes and an array of homemade pasta highlight Sergio’s innovative, elegant menu. Our tagliarini salmone-pasta in a salmon sauce-was rich and flavorful without being heavy. The assorted hot appetizers, including shrimp, mussels and squid, were savory and delicate. The tentazione salad of avocado, mangoes and papayas served with walnuts and lime juice dressing made for the perfect light lunch. Sergio’s dining room is semiformal, and its prices are surprisingly reasonable. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 235. 742-3872. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations lor dinner only. All credit cards. $$)
Soflo’s. When you step into Sotio’s, you know you’re not in just another strip shopping center restaurant. You’re in Rocky Sofio’s Italian restaurant/pizza joint. The fried mozzarella must have been Mama’s specialty. It’s served with a rich, chunky red sauce for dipping. The antipasto for two was chock-full of Italian goodies-salami, olives and a rich assortment of marinated vegetables. For entrees, the baked lasagna and fettuccine Alfredo were winners, but the linguini with clam sauce wasn’t garlicky enough. The portions at Sofio’s are enormous (one appetizer can easily be shared), so don’t eat every bite; dessert is a must. (4021 Belt Line. 934-8121. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnight. Closed Sunday. MC. V, AE. $$)
MEXICAN
Adeline’s. This tiny hole in the wall in Preston Center dishes up wonderful huevos rancheros for breakfast plus other Mexican morning specialties such as migas (eggs scrambled with tortilla bits, cheese and tomatoes) and huevos con chorizo. The accompanying potatoes are good and hearty. For lunch, try the tamales, which are outstanding, or the fajitas (grilled strips of beef in a flour tortilla with lettuce and tomato). Adelina’s also caters any night except Thursday, with a maximum of 50 guests. (6027 Berkshire Lane. 363-8680. Mon-Sat 11 am-2:30pm, Wed 6-8:30 pm. No credit cards. $).
Cafe Cancun. We’ve always said viva to civilized Mexican restaurants, but Cafe Cancun is so enjoyable you’d swear they didn’t know an enchilada from a calzone. Can you imagine Joe T. escorting you to the oak-and-fern bar, plying you with marga-ritas and letting you order black-bean nachos while you wait? This, mind you, accompanied by lively strains of “Quando Caliente El Sol.” But despite our predilection for luxury, we’ve also maintained since day uno that this is the best Mexico City-style Mexican food in town. The tacos al carbon are consistently the best tacos al carbon we’ve found anywhere. The nachos, which combine black beans with jalapenos, guacamole, sour cream and chihuahua cheese, are out of this world. Those hopelessly addicted to Tex-Mex can indulge in decent combination plates. But the chiles rellenos, the crisp sauteed red snapper and anything with mole sauce are what keep people who like the real thing coming back for more. (Caruth Plaza, 369-3712; or 4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Open seven days, hours vary with two locations. Lunch specials. Sunday brunch, live bands -call for details. MC. V. CB. $$)
Chiquita. While this isn’t a Tex-Mex, pifiata-stringing establishment, there are enough clothless tables around to make those of us who enjoy those places feel at home We began our meal with the ironclad test: nachos. the bean and cheese variety. We argued over their quality; some of our more critical companions called the nachos “workmanlike and plodding.” They lacked, our friends said, the lilt that would have made them worthy of their title. We were of one mind, however, about the entrees- all were hot and fresh and packed with high-quality beef and chicken. The polio en crema, strips of chicken flavored with sour cream and walnuts, and a pounded chicken dish broiled over a hickory fire were both unusual and good, but a puff taco was tasteless and stale. We also had some tangy tortilla soup, some well-spiced guacamole and crisp zucchini with just the right touch of paprika. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC. V. AE. $$)
Guadalajara. This Ross Avenue hole in the wall has made itself respectable: a new door, new plate-glass windows and a brightly striped awning. We were put off at first, nostalgic about the days when roach and man ate side by side, but Guadalajara is still a far cry from elegant. Service was quicker than in the past, and all our Tex-Mex was prepared just the way we like it. Sombreros off to Guadalaiara for realizing that the charm of sleaze lasts only so long. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Fri 11-3:30 am, Sat & Sun 10-3:30 am. Closed Mon. MC, V. $)
Herrera. Despite the fact that this dumpy little restaurant on Maple Avenue has more customers than it can possibly serve, the food and the service have remained consistently good. Suggestions include the Jimmy’s special or the Pepe’s special, both of which are virtual Tex-Mex smorgasbords. The only bad news is that Herrera’s has no liquor license, so bring enough beer to carry you through the wait and the meal. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed & Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun 9 am-10 pm. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
Javier’s. Don’t visit this “gourmet Mexican” restaurant when you’re in the mood for Tex-Mex because you’ll leave with an aching in your heart for refried beans and rice. But the alternatives here are undoubtedly a better choice. You’ll leave Javier’s filled with delicious beef, seafood or chicken dishes, desserts other than pralines and an actual vegetable. The tortilla soup is crowded with cheese, avocado slabs and smooth pasilla chiles. The nachos are fine but not too unusual since black beans and white cheese have caught on even in Tex-Mex hot spots. But Javier’s is in the big leagues for what it does to shrimp; they’re big and meaty and sauteed in a diablo sauce (a blend of coffee, orange juice and spices). The mushroom crepes served with corazon de filete are more exciting than the beef, but the beef isn’t half bad. For dessert, you can’t avoid the cajeta sauce-it comes on the cheese-cake and on the crepes flambe and it’s dished over the ice cream. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
La Calle Doce. Gracefully housed in a converted residence on 12th Street, La Calle Doce features a menu of seafood and steak specialties prepared Mexico City-style, as well as Tex-Mex basics. The atmosphere is relaxed and homey; the service, friendly and fast; the food, carefully prepared and well-presented. (415 W 12th. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat 11:30 am-10 pm, Sun 11:30 am-8 prn. MC, V. AE, DC. $$)
Moctezuma. Besides the usual Tex-Mex, Moctezu-ma’s features some excellent chicken and fish dishes. The nachos and the margaritas are tops. On sunny days you can sit outside on the terrace, sip a stout margarita and watch the traffic go by. (3236 McKin-ney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11 am- 10:30 pm. Fri & Sat full menu until 11:30 pm; appetizers until 12:30 am. Reservations for six or more. All credit cards. $$)
On The Border. On the Border calls itself a “South Texas cafe,” offering “the best mesquite-broiled foods of both Texas and Mexico (i.e., Tex-Mex).” We tried the Highland Park nachos, which were thick with two cheeses, onions and carrots-and included generous strips of mesquite-broiled beef. The tacos al carbon, filled with mesquite-broiled steak strips, had a good flavor but were a bit tough. Our taco salad was delicious and enormous, and the vegetarian sandwich with avocado and sprouts was perfect for lunch. On The Border also serves a meaty, cheesy, very hearty bowl of chili and some thick, juicy burgers. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Sun & Mon 11:30am-10pm, Tue-Thur 11:30am- 10:30pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. All credit cards. $$)
FAR EAST
Asuka. True gastronomes will admit to spending a good deal of their lives looking at Duncan Hines and restaurant ads, wishing for a bite of this or that delectable. Asuka makes such people’s dreams come true, for the menu itself is a photo album of the restaurant’s offerings. We stuck with an old favorite, an Ishiyaki Kaiseki dinner that began with some appetizers for the adventurous. We wouldn’t have minded missing these small servings of raw tuna, red cabbage and seafood that preceded our meal; they seemed to be present mostly for their shock value. But the next course, a huge, sizzling platter of beef and vegetables served over stone pebbles, was a flavorful, juicy blend of tender meat and crisp vegetables. The steam from the pebbles adds much to the taste of the dish and makes your dinner something like an evening at the sauna. We’re sure Asuka’s specialties are good for the complexion. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
August Moon. The menu here is vast, so go early and read it carefully. We began with a pu pu tray with the lightest fried shrimp and won ton we’ve ever tasted. August Moon Seafood Splendor and August Moon Sizzling Plate were tremendous in size and just barely seasoned-and then only to highlight natural flavors. The individual tastes of the meats and vegetables were easily distinguished and not greasy-a difficult feat with so many ingredients presented en masse. And the service was polite but at times a bit hurried. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:15 pm, Fri 11 am-10:45 pm, Sat 10:30 am-10:45 pm, Sun 10:30 am-10:15 pm. Dim sum served daily. Reservations for eight or more or for special banquets. Bar by mem bership. All credit cards. $$)
Bamboo Pavilion. We began a delightful meal with stir-fried minced chicken sauteed with black mushrooms and the freshest, crispiest water chestnuts ever to grace a wok, served with two pancakes. The result, rolled for us by our waitress, was something like an Oriental burrito and was simply delicious. Panda’s Prawns sounded too sweet-the menu describes them as Gulf shrimp marirated in wine and honey and deep-fried-but they were crunchy and left us feeling like another of Bamboo’s chef’s suggestions: a “Happy Family.” Bamboo does a good job of spicing its dishes per request; the obvious key to its excellence is freshness down to every detail. (1790 Promenade Center between Belt Line and Arapaho, Richardson. 680-0599. Daily: Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sat & Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Fong Lin. You won’t be bombarded by ceilings strung with glowing red-fringed paper lanterns or walls lined in red-and-black-flocked paper here, but neither will you encounter spacious rooms filled with Ming vases or doorways guarded by giant porcelain foo dogs. In fact, you probably won’t notice much about your surroundings at Fong Lin; they’re decidedly ordinary. But the same cannot be said of the food. We could have happily ended our meal after a huge pu pu tray, but we settled on orange beef (sliced tenderloin sauteed in orange peel with sesame seeds) and chicken and shrimp Hunan-style (diced chicken and shrimp sauteed with vegetables in a Hunan sauce). We’ve also tried the moo shu pork, a fine interpretation of another Oriental standard (8440 Abrams, Suite 408. 343-4514. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Forbidden City. This Chinese spot, next door to Wilson’s and in the same shopping center as three other restaurants, should be welcomed by North Dallasites. The atmosphere is quietly elegant, and the food matches the decor. Everything on our pu pu tray-shrimp toast to won ton to ribs-was well-prepared and flavorful. The tofu was tender and pleasantly spongy as opposed to the standard recapped rubber-tire versions. Also try the chicken and walnuts: Our chicken was tender; the walnuts, crunchy -providing a perfect example of the complementary textures so important to Chinese cuisine. Beef with snow peas was a pleasant variation on the same theme; the tender beef was cooked just right, and the snow peas were crisp. The service was efficient and friendly. (5290 Belt Line. 960-2999 Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11-3 am. Sun noon-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Kobawoo. Our meals at this small Korean restaurant in Oak Lawn have been dining adventures. Lighted Korean posters line the walls, and a color TV is usually blaring an Oriental station. Our waitress wasn’t quite fluent enough to explain what we were eating, but we enjoyed the slices of Mongolian barbecued beef, anyway The menu also offers several good chicken dishes. Some of Kobawoo’s vegetables were seasoned beyond recognition, and the sweet and sour pork was neither. Still, this place has charm and friendly service-it’s a good, quick, inexpensive place to grab a late-night Oriental bite. (3109 Inwood. 351-6922 Daily: 11-11. All credit cards. $)
Lotus. Forget about being hungry again in an hour; we left this restaurant happily filled to the gills, not planning another meal until well into the Chinese new year. Lotus runs low on swank (the ambiance is provided by standard paper lanterns and red-and-black booths), but that’s unimportant-the manager is serious about serving well-prepared, well-seasoned Hunan and Szechuan delicacies. Plump, juicy shrimp and crispy egg rolls sat in places of well-deserved honor on a flaming pu pu tray. The entrees selected by the chef for our house special were a seafood club plate full of fresh, crisp vegetables tossed in a light sauce with ample crab, shrimp and scallops and a very spicy (at our machismo request) chicken-and-nut dish. The two were culinary oppo-sites yet proved that the Lotus kitchen is ready for simple or spicy Oriental food aficionados (528 W Arapaho, Richardson. 231-9200. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 5-10. All credit cards. $$)
Plum Blossom. This review differs from many others listed under “Oriental” because words such as “elegance” and “charm” apply. Subtle scroll paintings, glittering tableware and well-mannered service set the mood for the somewhat flamboyantly presented meal, chosen from one of the three standard banquets (the least expensive of which has five courses). Almost every item of our Emperor’s Banquet for two was exotic. Our appetizer-a 10-flavor chrysanthemum fire pot with seafood, chicken, beef, vegetables and noodles-at least bordered on the unusual; we savored every delicate bite. We heard whispered complaints of high prices and limited quantity but were ourselves content with the number of different foods served in modest portions. After the fire pot came duck, then crab claws and shrimp in black-bean sauce, Chinese vegetables, sweet and sour pork and fried custard for dessert. (Loews Anatole, 2201 Stemmons 748-1200. Daily 6-10:30 pm. Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)
Royal China. If anything improves the experience of dining here, it’s the unfailing courtesy of the staff and the personal care lavished on every diner. Not that the food needs a boost. Buck Kao’s royal prawn entrees are legendary, but lesser-known dishes such as chicken curry-moist slivers of fowl with carrots, celery, water chestnuts and onions-are always excellent. If you begin your meal with the three delicacies soup (laden with shrimp, scallops and chicken), take on a Chinese appetizer plate (the barbecued spareribs are great) and finish up with a dish such as beef with tomato or sliced chicken with mushroom and bamboo shoots, you won’t want to consider dessert. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 361-1771. Daily: 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Sakura. In many ways this Japanese restaurant is typical of all Japanese restaurants: Waitresses wear traditional costumes, dinner is prepared at the table and the decor is soothingly Oriental. Our waitress made suggestions about our orders and cooked our dinner before our eyes, never expecting us to drop all conversation and “ooh” and “ah” until she finished. We enjoyed a quiet, well-prepared meal selected from a vast menu including everything from shredded beef to sea urchin. Standards such as sushi and tempura are also very good. (7402 Greenville. 361-9282. Daily: 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Sawatdee. If your culinary tastes are inclined toward the adventurous and experimental, this is truly an excellent restaurant in which to indulge. Among the specialties of the house worth noting are the red chicken curry, South Seas scallops and the dinner portion of moo satay. But be sure to clearly indicate to your waiter how spicy you like your food; otherwise, you may be surprised or disappointed by the degree of seasoning. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)
Sate House. We’ll give you three guesses what this restaurant means when it advertises “Indonesian Home Cooking.” If one of your guesses was “an intriguing mixture of Chinese and Dutch cuisine that takes the shape of everything from fried chicken to barbecued beef,” you’re absolutely right. Safe’s menu includes four dinner choices, two salads, a soup and a side dish (risolles) that, as far as we’re concerned, is essential to the Indonesian dining experience. Risolles are egg roll-like tidbits made of ragu, chicken and carrots that have a cheesy taste. Four or five would make a wonderful meal, but then you’d miss the rest of the adventure. Most Indonesian food is prepared in a rather unspectacular manner-the chicken, beef or pork is usually barbecued or fried. Coconut milk and peanut sauces make the difference in taste. Nasi Rames Special is Sate’s version of the combination platter. It’s a good introduction to dishes such as ayam panggang priangan, sate manis and sambal ulek. And don’t worry- they’re defined on the menu’s back page. (12125 Abrams at LBJ Frwy, Suite 108. 680-2803. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10; Sunday brunch: 11-2. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $)
Siam. Siam opened up new worlds for us when it brought Thai food to Dallas. For the uninitiated, Thai cuisine is often fiery hot, using peppers, curry sauces and blends in several elements that separate it from spicy hot Chinese cooking such as Szechuan or Hunan. An excellent appetizer is the moo-sar tey (pork strips on bamboo skewers served with a peanut sauce) and slices of cucumber and hot pepper. For an entree, try the gand ped-a rice dish with curry, bamboo shoots, coconut milk, mint leaves and your choice of pork, beef or chicken. Another standout is the pard Thai, a rice noodle dish with shrimp, pork, eggs, hot chili peppers, bean sprouts and green onions. (7730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)
Szechuan Pavilion. There’s nothing particularly compelling about the atmosphere at Szechuan Pavilion, but then, we’ve frequently found a positive correlation between good Chinese food and shabby surroundings. The keys here seem to be authentic, fresh ingredients, few gummy additives and spicy dishes that are zesty and flavorful but not fiery hot. Two items on the menu shouldn’t be missed: the fried fantail shrimp appetizer-perfectly crisp and light and served piping hot-and the subgum deluxe lo mein-a fabulous blend of lo mein noodles, plump nuggets of seafood and stir-fried vegetables. Beyond that, we tend to rely on the chef’s suggestions -some of which, like the emperor’s chicken and the hot-and-sour whole fish, are downright exotic. (8409 Preston in Preston Center. 368-4303. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat & Sun noon-3 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Uncle Tai’s. When the venerable Uncle Tai (one of New York’s most celebrated Chinese chefs) left the Big Apple to settle in Houston several years ago, it was a decided gain for Texans who enjoy flawless, fiery Hunan cuisine. Specializing in the spicy, predominantly stir-fried concoctions of his native Shanghai, Uncle Tai creates dishes that please the palate while subtly expanding it. Chinese-food fans who equate environmental dinginess with authentic fare are also in for a surprise. Everything from the curved lacquer-red woodwork to the elegant and weighty flatware is plush and handsome. But the food is the real revelation. At the risk of waxing effusive, it would be hard to find a restaurant with more careful food preparation, imaginative dishes, courteous service or handsome surroundings. (Gal-leria, Suite 3370. 934-9998. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-10:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)
SEAFOOD
Banno Brothers. Listening to the raucous bleat of Dixieland jazz or watching an oyster shucker do his thing, you could almost believe you’re in New Orleans. And you could practically drive there in the time it takes to get service at Banno’s on a busy Saturday night. But the wait is worth it, especially when endured with oysters on the half shell and the mol-lusk’s natural accompaniment: ice-cold beer. The broiled red snapper is buttery and nicely textured, while the crowded seafood salad makes a good meal for light eaters. Fried snapper, however, could just as well have been fried anything. The little touches are nicely done, with crunchy hush puppies (which, alas, do not come gratis) and a surprising tartar sauce with chopped onions. On the whole, Banno’s gives good weight-for the wait. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11. Sat 5-11 pm. Sunday, gone fishin’. MC. V. $$)
Boston Sea Party. Before you pop in on this party, be sure you’re a confirmed seafood lover and that you’re mighty hungry. You’ll want to get your money’s worth ($22.95, prix fixe for dinner), and you’ll want to make sure you sample everything. The all-you-can-eat presentation here is a lot like Sunday brunch at some of the larger hotels around town, and it is as delectable as it is vast. We selected dinner from three different “piers.” The first pier was a sampler of appetizers-fresh oysters, smoked fish, caviar, salads and chowder. The second was an assortment of steamed oysters, meaty crab legs and shrimp. Then came the main course. Our particular sea party found the whole Maine lobster to be excellent, though a little less tender than the Australian lobster tail; and the char-broiled salmon was flaky and meaty The dessert pier held an appealing selection of small servings of fresh fruits, cheeses, cheesecake, mousse and carrot cake. (13444 Preston. 239-7061. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10. Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 4:30-9. All credit cards. $$$)
Champagne Johnny’s. The feel here is one of the Florida Keys: potted palms, archways, sunset lighting. Champagne is the bartender’s specialty, and he offers a large variety. Seafood is the chef’s forte, and there’s a decent selection on that front, too. The poached oysters were an imaginative change from the usual cheese/spinach variations. The house salad consisted of romaine, bibb and iceberg lettuces, black olives and cheese. The scallops in garlic were tender, and the broiled salmon was excellently prepared. It was moist and came with rata-touille, a perfect complement to the subtlety of the salmon and scallops. Servings were large, and most diners probably won’t want dessert. That’s just as well-Johnny’s cheesecake and homemade pies just don’t measure up to the rest of the fare. (2905 Greenville. 823-5800. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-2 pm & 5-11:30 pm, Fri 11:30 am-2 pm & 5 pm-2 am, Sat 11:30-2 am, Sun 11-11. All credit cards $$$)
Hampton’s Seafood Market. On any given day, this small, quaint seafood oasis adjacent to the Farmer’s Market downtown offers approximately 50 different kinds of seafood for eating in or carrying out. The luncheon menu is limited-as is the seating (only two tables)-but the offerings are excellent. We ordered the salmon salad with cucumber and the swordfish salad with green pepper (both served on flaky croissants). Chunky, slightly tart coleslaw was a complementary side dish. For a taste of Cajun country cooking, try Hampton’s seafood gumbo. The Hampton salad is a delightful combination of shrimp, coleslaw, vegetables and two kinds of fish salads. Hampton’s also sells its own marinade for fish, beef or chicken, as well as shrimp boil and homemade red sauce and tartar sauce. (801 S Pearl. 742-4668. Tue-Fri 8 am-6 pm. Sat 7 am-6 pm, Sun 7 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
Jozef’s. “Rough wood elegance ” has become a seafood restaurant cliche, but we can think of no better way to describe this comfortable, unpretentious yet very fine McKinney Avenue restaurant. Prices were reasonable, service was bright and we enjoyed every bite from the bread to the cheese-cake. The clean, spicy Creole shark soup is worth trying. Jozef’s crab meat Remick and mushrooms (stuffed with crab meat) began our meal perfectly. Our lobster was moist, not overcooked, and was served with an unusually large steak. The chef’s special shrimp was beautifully served with mushrooms, shallots and a light, creamy sauce. Our only complaint was with the vegetables-although they appeared to be fresh, they arrived cold. (2719 Mc-Kinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-70, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Ratcllffe’s. The decor looks like New Orleans, and the fish compares favorably. Especially noteworthy are the clam chowder and sourdough bread. Add a house salad and soothing raspberry mousse, and you have a pleasant lunch. In the evenings, try the pasta with seafood or red snapper, plus vegetables. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)
Rocco Oyster Bar. If you can forget that we’re landlocked in Central Texas, there’s no less splendid a place than Rocco’s to act like a drunken sailor and eat fresh seafood that still smacks of brine. But the food here tends to be a bit erratic. On one visit, our entrees were uniformly delightful: fresh sole alman-dine, soft-shell crab and the Big Mix-a brochette of shrimp, scallops, green pepper, tomato and oysters smoked until heated through but still moist. We weren’t as impressed on another trip- the sauteed scallops were a bit dry, and the sea bass was delivered raw. Chic industrial lighting and blue neon tubing make Rocco’s an exceptionally attractive place. (2520 Cedar Springs. 747-6226. Sun-Wed 11:30 am-11 pm, Thur-Sat 11 am-12:30am. MC, V, AE. $$)
Seascape Inn. This seafood restaurant is one of Dallas’ finest eateries. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. The Dover sole Veronique and the salmon in puff pastry are two wonderful selections. “Gracious” best sums up the service and atmosphere; it is elegant but not pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$$)
S&D Oyster Company. The newly bricked McKin-ney Avenue outside makes S&D’s stark, casual dining room feel even more like a part of New Orleans. This is fitting since the array of seafood offered here -oysters, shrimp, fish-is fresh and authentically prepared. The hefty crowd lingering outside the door speaks for the food’s reputation. S&D’s service is consistently crisp and friendly. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 4 Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)
Spinnaker. The menu here is of manageable size- there is variety, but it doesn’t appear that the chef tries to perform beyond his means in order to impress. Our entree choices included a filet of red snapper with white wine and lemon butter and bouillabaisse marsellaise, rich with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, halibut, sea bass, lobster, mussels, red-fish and clams in a deliciously light, non-fishy broth. The appetizers we sampled were very good, but we missed having salads with our meal and feel compelled to give Spinnaker counsel on its desserts: The chocolate chip-pecan pie and the strawberry tart just didn’t taste up to par. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, 5410 LBJ Frwy at Dallas N Tollway. 934-8400. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch: 10:30-3. Reservations only. All credit cards. $$$)
Turtle Cove. Decisions are easy to make at Turtle Cove: Order the fresh seafood broiled over a mes-quite wood fire, a whiff of which you’re bound to inhale as you enter. The mesquite provides a low, moist heat that cooks the seafood to perfection. Mesquite-broiled vegetables are a better choice than salad, and the best appetizers are the fresh oysters and broiled shrimp. Just remember: Stick with the fresh seafood. (2731 W ’Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Sun-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES
Brent Place. Lunch customers drive from all over the state to dine in this 108-year-old house in Old City Park. The carefully researched menu includes original recipes from the annals of Texas cooking during the years 1890-1910 and changes weekly; we enjoyed mock turtle soup, baked crab, chicken and dumplings, succotash and carrots and apple custard pie-all deliciously authentic. Brent Place is a nonprofit project of the Dallas Heritage Society and is staffed almost completely by society volunteers. The lunch menu changes weekly, but on weekends the chefs try out new menus and prepare old favorites. (1717 Gano. 421-3057. Lunchseatings: Tue-Sat at 11:15. 12:15 and 1:15; Sun brunch 11:15-2. Reservations required weekdays. MC, V, AE. $)
Bubba’s. This slate-gray art deco lunch stop near the SMU campus offers dependable chicken-fried steak, fried chicken and chicken and dumplings. With them you can have mashed potatoes and cream gravy, vegetables cooked with salt pork, salad, luscious hot rolls and cobbler for dessert. Breakfast begins with biscuits-with gravy or in sausage sandwiches. This is a great place for reading the Sunday papers or. in the case of one SMU history prof, “Pericles.” (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Daily: 6:30 am-10 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Celebration. Nothing fancy, nothing snooty, nothing canned makes its way to your table at this longtime favorite home-style chow house. Specials change daily; everything we tried was worth celebrating. We went on a Tuesday to give Celebration the acid test; Would the special of the day, chicken-fried steak, be worthy of our (native Texan) digestive juices? Indeed, it was. The gravy was some of the best we’ve tasted, save for Massey’s in Fort Worth and George’s in Waco. The best part of the meal was the smooth, creamy mashed potatoes, obviously made from scratch and seasoned with drippings from the steak. Every entree comes with three vegetables, a huge salad, homemade salad dressing and a basket of assorted rolls. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. All credit cards. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. Dining at this Dallas institution during peak hours can mean waiting in line for as long as 20 minutes. But don’t give up; the line moves quickly and soon you’ll be enticed by the aroma of HPC’s home-style food. HPC offers all kinds of green salads, coleslaw, congealed salads and fresh fruits Next in line are the entrees: roast beef, fish (baked or fried), casseroles and more. And the vegetables here are actually semicrisp, not steamed into mush. The assortment of breads and desserts is especially tempting. (4611 Cole, 526-3801: Hwy 114 at O’Connor, Irving, 556-0480: 600 Sakowitz Village on the Parkway, 934-8025. No liquor. No credit cards. $)
Ms. Batty’s. The personality of this luncheon “boutigue” is best described by its specialty dessert: Highland Park pie, a rich concoction of chocolate chips and pecans from an original recipe by Ms. Betty (Carron). Place your order at a walk-up window and take your seat in an old-style wooden school desk. The ham salad is good but not as good as the chicken salad, which is prepared with nuts and was enjoyed by at least one reviewer known for not being nuts over chicken salad. Pimento cheese sandwiches and a variety of soups are also offered, as is chili. Don’t miss Ms. Betty’s desserts: pumpkin cheesecake, Highland Park pie. peanut butter pie or fudge pie. (7011 Lomo Alto. 526-5084 Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Peggy’s Beef Bar. If Snider Plaza has hopes of becoming highbrow (a la Highland Park, a la Rodeo Drive) it has to contend with Peggy’s Beef Bar. And Peggy. This quick-bite barbecue dive, complete with numerous pictures of cattle, offers juicy sandwiches, heaping barbecue plates and some terrific spicy onion rings. But you city slickers stay home; Peggy’s servin’ up the real McCoy. (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422 Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm. Sat 10 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Sonny Bryan’s. This is the kind of no-frills, quality barbecue that must have made Texas famous oh-so-long ago. And if Texas excess has a good side, it’s the excessive barbecue sauce spilling off Sonny Bryan’s hefty beef sandwiches and juicy ribs. The solid lunch crowd at this small, rustic former drive-in can attest to the great flavor of Sonny’s-if you can get anyone to stop eating. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8 am-5pm, Sat 7am-3pm, Sun 11 am-2pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Albert’s Delicatessen and Catering. The menu features deli sandwiches and “specialties,” which include croque monsieur sandwiches, soups, hot dishes such as lasagna and moussaka, and bastur-ma (an egg dish prepared with aged beef thai tastes a lot like country ham). Al also serves up a creamy, cinnamon-flavored cheesecake and lots of friendly chatter. Albert’s has a nice, neighborly atmosphere. (1416 Avenue J, Piano. 424-4534. Mon-Fri 7-7. Sat 7 arn-4 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
The Bronx. Pinpointing the ambiance of The Bronx is not easy-it’s somewhere between Soho chic and Southern simplicity. In any case, The Bronx is a great place to sit back, relax and choose from a limited menu of quiches, omelets and salads or perhaps the meat loaf plate, all of which are sure bets. The Bronx has daily wine specials and some of the best spiced tea around. Service can be a bit slow. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-12:30 am, Fri 11:30-1:30 am, Sat 5:30 pm-1:30 am; Sunday brunch: 11-3. MC, V, AE. $$)
Chips. Basic burgers, with everything necessary to make them good: fresh, lean ground meat, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, mustard and mayonnaise-and a fresh poppy-seed bun. The options include cheese, of course, and double meat. And there’s good chili con queso and a taco salad large enough to feed a family of four. Service is as fast and friendly as you want it to be; you order at the counter and pick it up when your name is called. The atmosphere is basic burger joint: loose and relaxed. (4501 N Central Ex-pwy. 526-1092. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $) Crackers. Greek dishes prevail at this casual, comfortable restaurant. Enjoy moussaka, spanokopita, baked chicken Greek-style or souflaki outside on the balcony among the trees or in the pleasant but nondescript dining rooms. For a taste of something on the lighter side, quiche and sandwiches are available. Almost all entries are preceded by a cup of soup and a crunchy, cheesy tidbit followed by a fresh green salad. (2621 McKinney. 827-1660. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30, Sat 11-3, Sun 11-5: dinner: Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-1. MC, V, AE. $)
Hoflbrau. We regret heaping more praise upon this much-adored Dallas institution only because the last time we visited-on a Monday night-we waited 30 minutes for a table. But it was no wonder, for we stood in Hoffbrau-that enchanted place where even SMU kids dress like UT kids. The steaks are large, the potatoes are fattening, the beer is cold and the music is loud. Hoffbrau may have made “Esquire’s” best eats list, but neither prices nor service seems to have suffered. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm. Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Kobe Steaks. This plush Japanese steakhouse offers combinations of steak, seafood and/or chicken. Beef is the featured attraction, and it is of the highest quality. Dinners come with delicious beef broth, a piquant shrimp appetizer and smooth green tea as well as salad and rice. But the group seating arrangements offer little privacy while you dine. (5000 Belt Line off Dallas Pkwy, the Quorum, Suite 600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5-midnight.AII credit cards. $$$)
The Palm Bar. Nowhere can you find a lighter, lovelier or more innovative meal downtown than at The Palm Bar in the Adolphus Hotel. In addition to such predictable selections as salads and New York deli-style sandwiches, you’ll find lunch variations such as croissant sandwiches with turkey or roast beef and a pot of fresh steamed vegetables dressed with a dab of herb butter. A limited menu is available through cocktail time. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon Fri 11 am-7 pm. All credit cards. $$)
Tolbert’s Chill Parlor. Tolbert’s may have left Oak Lawn, but not much else has changed at this chili institution (except that the crowd’s gotten even bigger). You’ll still find good mainline Texas cooking- Tolbert’s version of chili (Texas red), burgers with every type of dressing, burrilos. hearty fries and superb onion rings-but now you’ll get it served up in an even bigger warehouse-style room with even more chili cookoff photos. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)
FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS
Benito’s. This is a real Mexican restaurant, not the place for Pancho-style taste buds or first-semester Spanish students. This small, family-run establishment is managed by the daughter of the former headwaiter at Caro’s, and she’s made sure her restaurant’s beans and rice are just as tasty and nongreasy as theirs. But she’s done more: Benito’s serves all sorts of Mexican breakfasts, as well as specialties such as menudo-that’s tripe, in case you don’t know; it’s reputedly great for hangovers. (1450 W Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Sun-Thur 10 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-3 am. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)
Cattlemen’s. First-time visitors are excited by the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old stockyards area, but the prime steak is the thing that brings them back a second time. Blue-ribbon beeves are displayed to document the superb quality of meat that has been devoured here, but tasting is believing. When the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11 am-10:30pm, Sat 4:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur. All credit cards. $$$)
Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hoummus bit-tahini (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts)? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener,” says the menu, and we believe it. The bread is baked while you watch. (3308 Fairfield, Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30;dinner: Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcla’s. This Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex serves up superior family-style Mexican staples and industrial-strength margaritas that are champions. You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, gua-camole. tortillas and, it you must, nachos. No questions. No substitutions. That’s it. But it’s the best, and it makes for an inherently good time. Time after time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm & 5-10:30 pm, Sat 11 am-10:30 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. Reservations for 20 or more. No credit cards. $$)
Kincaid’s. This West Fort Worth grocery store serves, almost as an afterthought, the best hamburger in the state of Texas Kincaid’s cooks more than 1.200 a day, but each seems to taste as if your mother toiled over a skillet preparing it. Greasy? Of course. But they are the best-tasting, juiciest, meatiest burgers you’ll ever wrap your hands around. That’s why businessmen in three-piece suits are more than willing to stand in line at the noon hour for a chance to grab one of these delightful burgers, a bag of potato chips and a Dr Pepper from the machine. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sal 10 am’-6:15 pm. No credit cards. $)
London House. Many a prom date, graduate, newly engaged and golden-aged couple have celebrated at the London House. The steaks and chicken are tender and flavorful. The crab, too. is tender and moist. The soup and salad bar, always a strong point, has gotten even better with the addition of items such as watermelon chunks. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
River House. This welcome spot considerably lessens the pain in a city aching for reasonably priced yet digestible seafood. The seafood platter is a delightful sampling of shrimp, oysters, fish and deviled crab. And the assorted shore dinners, which include an appetizer, salad, entree, drink and dessert (try the Key lime pie), are a worthy catch (1660 S University. (817) 336-08)5. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-SatS-10. Reservations for six or more. All credit cards $$)
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