DINING NEW ARRIVALS

Villa Bugatti. The hustle and bustle and the occasionally poor service at the original Bugatti restaurant is, happily, not characteristic of the new Bugatti near The Quadrangle. But, of course, we never really minded the atmosphere at the old Bugatti; the proof, after all, is in the pasta. At the old Bugatti, the tortellini was unbeatable, and, hallelujah, it is similarly creamy and rich at Villa Bugatti. A special lobster and veal combination we tried highlighted each flavor unusually well; the veal was prepared in a creamy wine sauce, and the lobster was covered with a light tomato sauce. The breast of chicken al vino bianco, with a mixture of garlic, wine and mushrooms, was prepared in the same manner as the veal and was just spicy enough to be interesting. But we did find a few disappointments: The vegetables were too salty and lemony; a side order of lin-guini was caked with garlic; and the scallo-pino al fungi were too chewy. But all in all, in the areas where the first Bugatti falls short -in atmosphere and in service -the new Bugatti, in a quiet, tree-shaded two-story house, shines. (2710 Boll. 824-2470. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sun 5:30-11. All credit cards. Reservations. $$$)

Taiwan. There’s an old Chinese saying that “eating is the sky,” and after several meals at Scott Sheu’s new Taiwan restaurant in Addison, we think we’ve had a few bites of heaven itself. There just aren’t many Oriental restaurants in Dallas where soy sauce is served from cut-glass decanters, plates are trimmed in gold and fresh flowers adorn every table. The new Taiwan manages to combine all the elegance of Oriental tradition with the cordial service and deft preparation of the Taiwan on Greenville, which we fell for years ago. Of course, it is the eating that’s the sky, not the atmosphere. We were delighted with the plump, lightly fried shrimp rolls and the warm, meat-stuffed turnovers (kuo-teh) that we ordered as appetizers and with the large, hot tureens of egg flower soup and hot and sour soup. Both were good, but the hot and sour was superior. Then we chose a Sizzling Iron Plate, which gave us a taste of the deli-ciously spiced beef that we’d smelled since we entered the restaurant and an assortment of vegetables. On the Sizzling Plate (as with every other entr坢e), the vegetables were fresh, crisp and varied. The service was gracious; our only complaint is that the hot tea we ordered near the beginning of the meal never arrived. (4980 Bell Line. 387-2333. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-midnight. All credit cards. $$)

Lou & Larry’s. Lou & Larry’s has a Greenville Avenue-type name and an Old Town address, but it’s a quieter, more diverse establishment than most of its neighbors. The restaurant has quite an imaginative menu; we especially enjoyed the selection of stir-fry salads. The sunny California stir-fry, a hot combination of lightly “wokked” fruits, vegetables, ham, turkey tenderloin and chicken, was dressed in poppy-seed and honey dressing. But the shrimp and turkey tenderloin included huge slabs of tasteless fowl in a meek, brown wine sauce. The “special” vegetables were nothing but lightly braised carrots, yellow squash and zucchini. The rib eye with black peppercorns and raisins was supposed to have been cooked medium, but when it arrived, the beef was cold in the middle. After another trip to the kitchen, the steak was returned to our table sans raisins and charred on the outside. We gobbled up the tiny, hot cherry and blueberry muffins that accompanied our meal, but we should have passed on dessert. The chocolate mousse cake was gorgeous, but it tasted bland and spongy. The chocolate peanut cake tasted like a day-old pecan log. We give Lou and Larry’s credit for originality; we were intrigued by the Amish chicken-salad sandwich and the fresh grouper filet. The owners of the restaurant, also the owners of Spat’s (formerly at this location), call their new business “an original American restaurant.” “Each and every food offering,” they proclaim, “is a signature dish, a one-of-a-kind creation unavailable anywhere else.” But we couldn’t help but remember the philosophy of Jane and Michael Stern, authors of Goodfood, a traveling guide to regional cuisine in America: “We believe that American cooking is something more than a novel amalgam of regional groceries.” It is, the Sterns say, “an expression of place and soul.” Lou & Larry’s falls just short of real American food. (5500 Greenville. 361-4348. Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m.-mid-night, Fri & Sat 11:30-1 a.m. All credit cards. $$)

Rolfs. Move over, moo shi pork and chalupa a la king; the Deutsch are well-established in Dallas, and, so far, the verdict on them is first-rate. Rolf’s is the newest shining example of excellence. With just two months’ experience, this Caruth Plaza haven run by Rolf Eiring (who left his job as executive chef at the Hyatt Regency earlier this year) offers a mighty good selection of ambitious authenticity. The stout German traditional dishes share the menu with a selection of standard continental favorites. The ambiance of Rolfs – like Abercrombie and Fitch, two doors to the south -is elegantly understated with crisp Strauss waltzes and rough-hewn ceiling beams. We asked a question about the suelze (headcheese) and received a generous sample-gratis. One of Rolfs specialties is his cold soups. We tried a wonderful watermelon soup with small balls of pear. (Next visit, we’ll try the creamy avocado with curry). As for entrees, the rinds roulade (braised beef rolled with pickles, onion and bacon) had an attractive, wild flavor and was complemented very well by the fresh vegetable and potato dumpling. The schlachtplatte, an assortment of German meats accompanied by saut坢ed potatoes and onions, was our favorite. The kalbshaxe (roast shank of veal) was served in a natural veal sauce, and the accompanying vegetables were delicately crisp and tasty with a hint of tarragon. The roast saddle of lamb, filled with a farce of veal and spinach, was outstanding. Meat is the cornerstone of German cooking, yet the poached red snapper was surprisingly good, topped with a baby-shrimp-and-dill-sauce, though we would have preferred larger, fresh shrimp. After dinner, the dessert sideboard beckoned, as it had from the time we walked by it before dinner. The spread of showy Black Forest cake and hazelnut cream puddings was tempting, but the unpretentious hot apple strudel with vanilla sauce was best: Encased in a light crust, the plump, cin-namony apples and raisins were divine. After dinner, enjoy the pleasant and quiet surroundings by sitting back with some apple kirsch. (9100 N. Central Expwy., #117. 696-1933. Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5:30-10:30p.m., Fri&Sat 11-2:30 & 5:30-11 p.m. Closed Sunday. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Ciao! Spicy, thick pizza, calzones, pasta and a wide variety of other Italian fare are the mainstays of this tiny new Cedar Springs pizzeria. With New York-style furnishings (tables are few and small), black-and-white tile and a chef who works right out in front so you can watch his every move, this place could be classified as low-key, high-class high-tech. The pizzawas well-laced with oregano and garlic andwas layered with homemade sausage,mushrooms, tomatoes and Italian red peppers. The crust was very much a pizza pie-type crust: thick, chewy and meant to beeaten with a fork. Other pizza toppers included hard-boiled eggs -an odd ingredient-and the traditional Italian cheeses,meats and vegetables. A couple of non-pizza selections are included on the menuand are offered as daily specials if you’rein the mood for something more substantial. Chicken cooked several ways (butalways quite Italian) seems to be a specialty, and no matter what the offering,the ingredients will, no doubt, be freshand authentic. Our service at Ciao! wasunusually professional for a pizza joint.(3921-B Cedar Springs. 521-0110. Mon-Fri11 a.m.-midnight, Sat & Sun noon-midnight, ae, mc, v. $$)

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment . Inclusion In this directory has nothing whatsoever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $20 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club. CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted



BARBECUE



Dickey’s. We talkin’ lean, high-quality meat heah, boy, and good sweet slaw and plenty o’ beans, plus juicy corn on the cob that’ll squish butter right over on your lady if you don’t watch out. This place is crawlin’ with good ol’ boys and bidnissmen around noon, but they don’t keep ya standin’ long You may need a little extry sauce on the meat, ’less you like it dry, but this ain’t the French Room, so just get on up n’ get it These ol’ boys’ll give you some ambiance, too: They got signs up with the words spelled like real people say em. like “cold slaw” and “sand- witches.” It’s a hoot. And look for the little proverbs on the chalkboard, like, “Girls, be sure you’re right, then ask your husband.” Shoot, that’s tellin’ ’em. Just one hitch: That banana puddin’ tastes like it’s been cozyin’ up to a test tube. No way that’s homemade (4610 N Central Expwy. 821-1571. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sunday. No credit cards. $)

Peggy’s Beef Bar. If Snider Plaza has hopes of becoming highbrow (a la Highland Park, a la Rodeo Drive), it has to contend with Peggy’s Beef Bar. And Peggy. This quick-bite barbecue dive, complete with numerous pictures of cattle, offers juicy sandwiches, heaping barbecue plates and some terrific spicy onion rings. But you city slickers stay home: Peggy’s is servin’ up the real McCoy (6600 Snider Plaza. 368-9422 Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm, Sat 10 am-4 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)

The Rib. This may be the fanciest barbecue place in town (what with all the tuxedoed waiters and candlelight) but the touches of old plantation elegance don’t interfere with the business at hand: lip-smacking barbecued chicken, brisket and (drumroll, please) ribs. Everything was good-the family-style beans and sweet German potato salad, the soft, hot garlic bread, the ice-cold beer-but nothing compares to ribs at The Rib. Our waiter warned us at the beginning of the meal not to fill up on our appetizer of smoked sausage, but we couldn’t hold back, and by the end of the meal we were bursting at the seams. All that we lacked, we decided, was soap and water to wash the remainder of our meal off our hands and face And then our waiter brought us a bowl of hot water with lemon to do just that. (5741 W Lovers Lane. 357-8139. Daily 5pm-10pm. Carry-out available daily 4 pm-10 pm. All credit cards $$)

Roscoe White’s Easy Way. You don’t just happen upon what has been affectionately referred to as “The Greasy Way” by a generation of Highland Parkers weaned on Roscoe’s barbecue sauce With its “atmosphere” of sights and smells out of a grade-B truck stop and service reminiscent of Laverne and Shirley-without the laughs-there’s little on the surface at this place that would cause you to stay. But persevere: There’s some decent home-style barbecued beef, ribs and chicken-fried steak to be had. Portions are good-sized but not gargantuan, and the sandwiches are a better bet than the combo plates. Most dishes are accompanied by a fresh if unimaginative salad, good fries and a basket of rolls and corn bread. In true truck stop tradition, desserts are mostly of the fruit- and meringue-pie variety-tasty, although, according to the waitress, they’re “not homemade.” (5806 Lovers Lane. 526-5044. Daily 7 am-midnight. All credit cards. $)

Sonny Bryan’s. This is the kind of no-frills, quality barbecue that must have made Texas famous long ago. And if Texas excess has a good side, it’s the excessive barbecue sauce spilling off Sonny Bryan’s hefty beef sandwiches and juicy ribs. The solid lunch crowd at this small, rustic former drive-in can attest to the great flavor of Sonny’s-if you can get anyone to stop eating. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8 am-5 pm, Sat 7 am-3 pm. Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



BREAKFAST



Adeline’s. This tiny restaurant in Preston Center dishes up wonderful huevos rancheros for breakfast plus other Mexican morning specialties such as migas (eggs scrambled with tortilla bits, cheese and tomatoes) and huevos con chorizo. The accompanying potatoes are good and hearty. For lunch, try the tamaies, which are outstanding, or the fajitas (grilled strips of beef in a flour tortilla with lettuce and tomatoes). Adelina’s also caters any night except Thursday tor up to 50 guests. (6027 Berkshire Lane. 363-8680. Mon-Sat 10:30 am-2:30 pm, Wed 6-9 pm. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)



The Hungry Jockey. It doesn’t have the clout or the cachet of The Mansion, but it’s a power hangout nonetheless. The modest little Hungry Jockey near Preston Road and Forest Lane has been hosting pre-work business breakfasts and Saturday outings with Daddy since it opened 11 years ago. It serves solid, standard coffee-shop fare with a few outstanding twists: namely, pecan waffles and blueberry pancakes. In our book, you’re better off making your own eggs at home. Service is superior by any measure, but it shines in the only area that really counts at breakfast: The coffee arrives right after you do. (1417 Preston Forest Square. 661-0134. Mon-Sat 6:30 am-2 pm. No credit cards. $)

Little Gus’. This lower Greenville landmark is just the spot for breakfast, the day’s least pretentious meal. Justly famous for its greaseburgers and Greek specialties, Little Gus’ also sets up a fine basic breakfast and serves it any hour of the day. The food comes hot and in hurry; usually, even on a busy morning, you’ll hear your name called before you’ve scanned the headlines. The cook-no chefs here- can distinguish between eggs over easy and over medium, a gift too rare in the Age of Denny’s. Not a grit to be found, though; even the Greeks don’t know everything about good food. (1916 Greenville. 826-4910. Mon-Thur 7:30am-4pm&6pm-9pm;Fri&Sat 7:30am-4 pm & 6pm-10pm; Sun 9am-1:45pm. No credit cards. $)

Lucas B&B. Who says waitresses with beehive hairdos, fresh eggs and reasonable breakfast prices went out with the Fifties? The decor is early greasy-spoon, the service is fast and courteous, and the atmosphere is bustling. Were it not for an occasional Oak Lawn punk rocker seated in the orange booths, one might mistake Lucas for a West Texas caf.e. We found the eggs to be as fresh and tasty as the menu hypes them, but the rest of the food is average. This is a good place to get served quickly while taking in the morning paper. (3520 Oak Lawn. 526-8525. Open daily 24 hours, except 1:45-3 pm. MC. V. $)

The Mecca. Welcome back to the land of marbled formica, orange vinyl booths and-if you ask for it -speed-of-light service with a smile. The price of two eggs, hash browns or grits, bacon or sausage and biscuits hasn’t changed in years, and the heaping portions and taste cant be topped. The Mecca missed the age of Texas chic (thank goodness), but the biscuits are still light and just right for dunking The eggs are hot, and the grits (with a little salt) are divine The cream gravy tasted of flour, but we’re not complaining, at least The Mecca serves cream gravy (10422 Harry Mines. 352-0051. Mon-Fri 5:30 am 3 pm. Sat 5:30 am-2 pm. Closed Sunday. All credit cards. $)



EUROPEAN



Agnew’s. Agnew’s is known as one of the city’s poshest restaurants, but our idea of elegant dining apparently differs from that of the management. The atmosphere is elegant, to a point-the colors are rich; the walls are covered with dark wood paneling; a fireplace adorns a far wall. But if elegance is synonymous with intimacy, the atmosphere here is lacking. Our waiter was friendly, efficient and helpful with menu selections, but somehow his too-chummy attitude didn’t seem to mesh with the tone that the management is trying to achieve. Our cream of yellow pepper soup was perfect; and the spinach salad with bleu cheese and bacon dressing was good, although the dressing was smooth-not chunky. The smoked salmon appetizer was the only disappointment on the menu. The tournedos of beef were excellent: The sauce was light in color and flavor, and the meat was tender and cooked to perfection The veal, served in a similar creamy sauce, was also excellent. The vegetables, however, were not top-notch-the asparagus was bitter, and the potato souffle was loo garlicky. Desserts are Agnew’s specialty, and the white-chocolate mousse is a masterpiece. (15501 Dallas N Pkwy in Adelstein Plaza. Suite 300. 458-0702 Lunch: Tue-Fn 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10. Sat seatings at 6:30 & 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$$)

The Bay Tree. Twice during the first 10 minutes of our visit to the Wyndham Hotel’s gourmet restaurant, we heard waiters apologize for its minuscule size. Nevertheless, we enjoyed a beautifully prepared rack of lamb that was artistically arranged in



D REVISITS



Ratcliffe’s. If you were a coastal transplant desperate for a true taste of the sea. you’d pay $8.95 for a bucket of steamers, right? Well, Ratcliffe’s is the place to do it-in style. Touted as a “San Francisco-style seafood house,” Ratcliffe’s is romantic without the formula hokeyness so many fish restaurants rely on An open kitchen and a glass case full of appetizing-looking ocean critters greet you when you walk in. and unless you have the misfortune to be seated in the rather bland upstairs dining room, you can enjoy your meal among beautiful antiques and pretty pastels. The seafood is reliably fresh, and sauces are creative and served nouvelle-style- under, not on top of. The fried fish, shrimp, oysters el al come piping hot, with a perfectly textured breading and just the right amount of grease. Two specials not on the menu but “prepared often” were superb: a bouillabaisse (a hearty bowlful of crustaceans afloat in a delicate broth) and a butterf lied and Dungeness crab-stuffed grouper. Sally’s Daily Sin, one of several house ice creams, provides a simple, soothing conclusion to a well-prepared, well-served, albeit pricey meal (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 am-2:30 pm, dinner: Sun-Thur 5 pm-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5 pm-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

small slices around a tomato stuffed with eggplant. The meat was cooked to perfection-crisp on the outside and juicy toward the middle. The special New York sirloin was also beautifully presented in a red wine sauce topped’with tender morels. The double-fudge cake served with orange sauce was rich and creamy. (The Wyndham Hotel. 2222 Stem-mons. 631-2222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30: Sun brunch: 11-3. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

Blom’s. Cool pastels mix well with Gershwin tunes, but service is apparently hit-and-miss in this new continental restaurant. The food is, for the most part, excellent. The lobster, salmon and scallop ter-rine prepared with dill and tarragon was smooth, and each seafood flavor was distinguishable. The artichoke bottoms filled with crab meat were fresh and were served with a light, buttery sauce The cream of watercress soup was rich and was chilled perfectly Delightful tart sorbets in five or six different flavors are offered before the entr坢e, and a tree of complimentary petit fours appears after every meal. (The Westin Hotel, 13340 Dallas Pkwy. 934-9494 Lunch: MonFri 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 5-/7, Sunday brunch: 10:30-2:30. Coat and tie required. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Cafe Royal. The surroundings here are as exquisite as the Mozart played by the pianist during dinner Good bets are scallops in pepper sauce-a fine appetizer-and such nouvelle cuisine entrees as flavorful duckling supreme and piquant veal steak with lime butter. But the service can be slow. (Plaza of the Americas. 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Reservations recommended. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Calluaud’s. Marline and Guy Calluaud have resumed their lunch service at the home location on McKinney Avenue, and it’s just like old times. The luncheon salads are as elegant as ever, and the lamb chops with french fries have returned to Mc-Kinney perfectly intact. So have the omelets, which are beautifully served with green beans and shredded carrots. Dinner at Calluaud’s is still one of Dallas’ most sensual experiences. From the expertly assembled champagne cocktails to the excellent after-dinner liqueurs, everything is orchestrated with quiet perfection. We began with pheasant pate with pistachio and truffles en croute. followed by the house salad (asparagus, tomato, artichoke hearts and avocado on a bed of lettuce, covered with a Dijon mustard dressing). Next, the entrees: duck with two sauces (mushroom and b坢arnaise with tomato), grilled sea bass in tomato sauce with basil, filet en croute in Madeira sauce with truffles, and tourne-dos. All were impeccably prepared and artfully served. For dessert: souffles-what else? (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur6-10pm, Fri&Satsealingsat 7&9:30pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets and ties required. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

Chl坴e. Once you get past the gorgeous glass front doors and are almost out of earshot of the blaring stereo system, you can enjoy a splendid tour-course dinner here The lobster mousse and the oysters and escargots with spinach are both fine openers. Next, try a salad of baby bibb with leeks or a steaming bowl of “soup of the seas.” For the main course, the filet of sea bass with beluga caviar is sinfully indulgent, and the duck with black currants is moist and tender with |ust the right touch of sweetness For dessert, try the white-chocolate mousse or the amaretto souffle. (8854 N Central Expwy in North-Park East. 361-9996. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:15; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. All credit cards. $$$$)

Clair de Lune. This breezy Quadrangle restaurant has plenty of room for alfresco dining beneath big red umbrellas. And inside, slick little midnight-blue tables provide a place to eat out of the heat The menu otters an interesting and rich assortment of entrees such as Cornish hen, trout, breast of chicken with artichoke hearts and minute steak with fries. We were disappointed with our onion soup au gratin; it lacked cheese, and the hunk of soggy French bread floating in the middle didn’t redeem it. The salad Clair de Lune was huge and fresh, with a collection of mushrooms, cheese, tomatoes, green pepper and bacon arranged on top with little or no dressing. By this time we had decided that the service was a little slow, but the night breezes kept our impatience at bay (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 871-2288. Mon-Thur 8 am-12:30 a m, Fri & Sat 8 am-2 am. Sun 11 am-5 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Clouseau. Pink lam坢 walls, sparse surroundings and, of course, la nouvelle cuisine is what we found at Clouseau, which takes its name from Inspector Clouseau of the “Pink Panther” movies. The restaurant makes a bold (albeit somewhat unsuccessful) stab at a variety of dining experiences-playful yet serious-with a menu that is one of the most inventive we’ve seen: lobster with grapefruit as an appetizer, salmon with cranberry sauce as an entree and kiwi parfait for dessert, to name just three of Clouseau’s 20-odd offerings. Both entr坢es we tried -medallions of lamb with pepper sauce and lotte (a fish that tastes a bit like lobster) with saffron sauce and snow peas-were tasty and beautifully arranged on our plates. The kiwi parfait was very refreshing, if a bit boring, and the fresh fruit tart-we chose strawberry-was superb, with lots of thick cream, and large enough for at least two people. But Clouseau’s attractive art deco church pew booths aren’t terribly comfortable, and our service was slow and less than pampering. (2100 Greenville. 828-2131. Tue-Sun 11 am-2 am; Sun brunch: 11-6. Closed Mon. AE. $$$)

Enjolie. We doubt that an entire week at a health spa could be as relaxing and soothing as one meal at Enjolie. The atmosphere is clean and crisp, as is the service. And the food is superb. The escargot appetizer is unusually prepared-the snails are in a small dish of garlic butter, and each is individually wrapped in pastry. The cream of artichoke heart soup, served cold, is creamy and very rich. The menu is filled with such exotic offerings as pheasant mousse and roasted pigeon. The veal entr坢e is unmatched; it’s tender and cooked to perfection. Desserts are preceded by a complimentary cheese tray to clear the palate and are followed by complimentary chocolate truffles. (Mandalay Four Seasons Hotel, 221 S Las Colinas Blvd, Irving. 556-0800, ext. 3755. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

The French Room. The French Room retains its status as the creme de la creme of fine Dallas restaurants. The quality of cuisine is, to date, unrivaled. In fact, while savoring succulent braised lobster and tenderloin of lamb, we doubted we could have tared better. The French Room’s management makes sure that along with superb cuisine comes service that aims to make each diner feel like a member of the first estate And although the menu selections hold their own, we ordered each course of our meal from among the specials of the day and were not disappointed. The duck salad was large enough to have been a meal in itself, and every sumptuous bite was heavenly. For dessert, the truit melange topped with a creamy sauce and the tart raspberry pastry in a caramel sauce were wonderful, though a tad too rich for our tastes. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)



Gall坢. Everything from the atmosphere to the after-dinner coffee in this Lincoln Radisson Hotel restaurant was near perfection. For appetizers, the shining star is the cold hors d’oeuvres tray; and although it is quite expensive for an appetizer ($14), it is truly a treat. The watercress salad with walnut oil is very simple but is perhaps the most elegant salad offering. More than 15 entrees are offered, including seafood, fowl, rabbit and beef. The sweetbreads with morels we tasted were fabulous-tender, flavorful and served in a smooth brown sauce. (Lincoln Radisson Hotel, Lincoln Center, 5410 LBJ Frwy. 934-8400. Mon-Fri 6-11 pm, Sat 6-11:30 pm. Reservations requested. Jackets and ties required. All credit cards. $$$$)

D REVISITS



Lurtino’s. Lurtino’s boasts a menu that changes daily and includes Northern Italian and continental cuisine. The selection and quality have improved commendably. The appetizers include cold and hot antipasto plates; garlicky escargot; spaghetti with homemade, chunky tomato sauce (perhaps a bit too sweet); and the creamiest, best-seasoned fettuc-cine Alfredo we’ve sampled recently. We tried a whole live lobster cooked in a white wine sauce, which arrived conveniently cracked, served in a light sauce with lemon and a side dish of seasoned butter-proof positive that Lurtino’s continental cuisine equals its Italian fare. The veal piccata was served in a fairly heavy, buttery sauce that was appealing but made the dish too rich to finish, (13601 Preston at Alpha, suite C22. 661 9766. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

The Garden Court. This Melrose Hotel restaurant proves that age can be accompanied by beauty and grace. The 59-year-old hotel has been born again, and its mix of art deco and traditional styling makes for a relaxing lunch or a romantic dinner. The rich, moist fudge nut cake makes it difficult to choose a sensible entree, but a bowl of seafood chowder crowded with great hunks of fish and fresh vegetables and a crisp Garden Court salad make a perfect lunch. (3015 Oak Lawn. 521-5151. Breakfast: Mon-Fri 6:30-11; lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10. Fri & Sat 6:30-11; brunch: Sat & Sun 7-3. Reservations recommended lor dinner and tor 5 or more at lunch. All credit cards. $$$)

Hearthstone Manor. Believe it or not, it’s a good idea to get into your car in traffic-clogged Dallas and drive the 30 or so minutes it will take to wind up (in hopes of winding down) on Main Street in Lewisville. For the most part, the food at Hearthstone is basic and wonderful. The hot, homemade bread is hard to beat, and Hearthstone serves a variety of muffins and rolls. Steamy baked potatoes in full dress and all-American entrees such as filet mignon, shrimp, snapper and veal make for a wholesome, memoia-ble meal. (208 E Main, Lewisville. 221-4515. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

The Inn at Country Sonshine. The inn is an intimate, graceful little spot at Preston Road and FM Road 544 on the southwest side of Piano. Its menu is an ambitious one-from duckling a I’orange to veal specialties. Most of the time, the chef’s skills are up to his visions, but occasionally he misses. We had a veal and crab meat dish that was good but just didn’t have the zing needed to make it really first-class. It was hit and miss with the vegetables, too: the salsify was delicious, but the broccoli in Chinese bread crumbs was too salty. The duckling, on the other hand, was perfect-the orange sauce provided just the right touch of sweetness. (1933 Preston, Piano. 596-0903. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10; Sun brunch: 11-3. All credit cards. $$$)

Joan Claude. There is an obvious explanation for the incredible popularity of the pleasant, “terribly French” Jean Claude restaurant. Quite simply, it is Jean Claude himself. Besides being a consistently gifted chef, Jean Claude’s personal warmth spreads from his open cook station throughout the tiny dining room, engendering good will and cleansing the air of any pretension. Our selections were light, beautiful to look at and practically flawless. A hot crab and lobster salad with vinaigrette and fresh dill along with the scallops en casserole proved wise beginnings, especially with hearty helpings of hot, homemade wheat bread. Our next indulgences were duckling in ginger and soy sauce and fresh Dover sole in a white wine sauce with mushrooms. The duck was superb, and the sole was good, if a little dull. After cleansing our palates with slightly tart greens, we launched into the chocolate mousse and hot chocolate souffle. At a fixed price of $31.50 a head, Jean Claude is worth every penny. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 & 9 pm. Reservations. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$$)

Laurel’s. This is another of the new North Dallas hotel restaurants in which palate-clearing sorbets and bottled sparkling water are consuetudinary. Floor-length windows offer wide-angle views of downtown, nearby skyscrapers and all that is in between. But our meals easily held our interest. We enjoyed fresh, artfully arranged vegetables, a tartly dressed salad and tenderloin in blueberries (just one of the interesting fruit-sauced entrees Laurel’s offers). We were pleased with the tender beef and the not-too-sweet blueberry sauce. It gave the common berry-heretofore reserved for pies and jellies-a new and delicious mission. We were equally pleased with the scallops in grapefruit sauce; they were tender and fresh, and the fruit flavor was deliciously subtle. (Sheraton Park Central Hotel. 358-3000. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sunday. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

La Vieille Varsovie. The Old Warsaw is an old-line dining establishment dripping in reputation and tradition, along with a few eccentricities. Note the pink flamingos dancing gaily across the forest green walls. Hear the gentle blending of violin and piano as the music drifts delicately across the spacious room. Watch the multitudinous captains and waiters weave in and out of tables, attending to napkins that need placing, cigarettes that need lighting, pheasants that need carving. In the midst of all the theatrics, it can be extremely difficult to keep one’s mind on one’s meal. The artichoke heart appetizer with shrimp and raspberry vinaigrette tasted a trifle boring, with nary a hint of raspberry. The fresh seafood soup fared better, as did our entr坢es-poached Dover sole with shrimp in lobster sauce, and veal with mushrooms. Both were as tender as one would hope, served in generous portions and accompanied by light, smooth vegetable timbales. After a brief pause (long enough to witness an unbelievable flaming drink production), strawberries in fresh cream and a chocolate souffle were perfect endings. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Reservations. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$$)

Le Boul’ Mich. Since French cuisine has become almost daily fare with I’Anglais, a glimpse at Le Boul’ Mich’s sparse menu is hardly surprising: pat坢 mai-son, quiche Lorraine and omelet after omelet. But each of these items is well-prepared, particularly the Omelette Boul’ Mich, which is filled with every variety of garden vegetable. A light, romantic dinner at Le Boul’ Mich is delightful, but the patio and indoor porch of this little white house make it an irresistible luncheon spot as well. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Le Louvre. Nestled between Wilderness Adventure and No Whar but Texas in the Corner Shopping Center is this elegant restaurant that has absolutely nothing in common with its neighbors. We relaxed in a loveseat beneath a glittering chandelier in a room with enough Old Master-style pieces to remind us of the restaurant’s namesake. The art became incidental, though, after the arrival of a bowl of creamy onion soup topped with Swiss cheese and a lobster bisque sweetened with cognac. The waiter tossed our salads tableside and brought perfectly cooked beef and veal with three varieties of plump wild mushrooms. Our only disappointment was with Le Louvre’s unsettling mix of music, inappropriate in a restaurant so named. We had coffee to renditions of “Hey Jude” and the M*A*S*H theme, (9840 N Central Expwy. 691-1177. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri 6-11:30, Sat 6-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

L’Entrecote. The dining experience here is exalted to the utmost; each table is attended by a captain, a waiter, as many as three assistants and a wine steward. Happily, the cuisine is on a par with the rich, subtle surroundings. The delicately seasoned escar-gots topped with light pastry were some of the best we’ve ever tasted, and the terrine of pheasant with pistachios, complemented by mandarin oranges, was smooth and slightly tart. The waiter displayed deft skill in preparing the wilted spinach salad with walnuts; it was a perfect blend of sweet and sour. For the finishing touch, the white and dark chocolate mousse was sinfully rich. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Frwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: dinner: daily 6-10:30. Reservations required lor dinner. All credit cards. $$$$)

Les Saisons. Within a setting resembling turn-of-the-century suburban Paris, Les Saisons serves meals that are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent. We enjoyed shrimp Les Saisons (shrimp served in a delicious cream sauce with chablis, mushrooms and shredded carrots) and coquille St. Jacques (tiny bay scallops served with orange quarters). The cream of cauliflower soup was unexceptional, but we were warmly reassured by a bowl of onion soup topped with lots of chewy, stringy cheese. (765 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30am-11 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. It’s fine to have enough money to do as you please-to dine in all the best restaurants and wear all the right clothes-but if ever the gorgeous spread that the Mansion consistently brings forth leaves you feeling blase, it’s time to seek counseling. Once we were seated comfortably in a dining room replete with molded ceilings and rich wood furnishings, the music of squeaking wine corks and laughter set us at ease. We began our meal with a salad of lump crab meat in a lobster dressing set on a bed of three kinds of lettuce. When our salad tasted less than superior, we were vaguely disappointed, but the wild, meaty mushrooms in flaky puff pastry that followed were delicious and all but redeemed the Mansion. We sampled a huge, perfectly grilled salmon steak and a serving of crisp asparagus with hollandaise sauce. We also tried the tenderloin strip, which, our waiter informed us, automatically comes medium rare. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: daily 7-10:30; lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2; brunch: Sat noon-2:30 & Sun 11-2:30: tea: Mon-Fri 3-5:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11 pm-12:30 am. Reservations. Jackets and ties re-quired. All credit cards. $$$$)

Maitre D’. This relaxing uptown establishment may soon rival the longtime downtown greats if it keeps on its toes. The elegant burgundy and brown decor and perfect, well-timed service instantly put us at ease, and the food was far from average. One of the specials we sampled included individual medallions of veal, chicken and beef. We expected far too much meat and too few vegetables, but we thought that ordering this entree would fulfill our obligation to sample everything we could possibly digest. We were happy with all of it and ate every bite. The vegetables were lightly cooked and held much of their natural flavor. (5290 Belt Line. 239-2799. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. Alt credit cards. $$$)



Mozart’s. Mozart’s gives the city’s best (Belvedere or The Chimney, depending on the phase of the moon) a new challenge. The rinder lendenschnitte Habsburg, a forgivably tough filet mignon topped with tasty goose liver and juicy mushrooms, was very filling, and the combination of flavors was extraordinary. The cordon bleu consisted of a delicate crust and tender veal. The side dishes at Mozart’s were served in wonderfully ample portions. We enjoyed fresh spatzle (saut坢ed noodles) and mixed marinated vegetables. (Sheraton Park Central, 12720 Merit. 385-3000. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. All credit cards. $$$)

Patry’s. This can be an excellent place to have a quiet and elegant continental dinner, provided that you arrive when the place is not too crowded. Pepper steak, duck a I’orange, lamb chops and veal in lemon butter are consistently tasty entrees. The cream of broccoli soup is some of the best in the city. One of Patry’s stronger points is its extensive wine list, which complements the menu. (2504 Mc-Kinney. 748-3754. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



QOURMET CARRYOUT



Beauregard’s. This tiny gourmet carryout/Europe-an-style grocery carries a varied selection of fresh vegetables from around the world, homemade jams and jellies and an assortment of fresh-baked breads. In addition, owner Beauregard Detterman prepares meat pies to heat at home as well as ready-to-go pasta salads, pates and desserts. On one visit, we sampled a chicken pie with bell pepper, onion, tomato and zucchini, topped with mozzarella. When heated, the pie was a juicy blend of flavors that made a filling meal. The duck liver pate was a smooth, creamy and rich side dish. To finish the meal, we chose Beauregard’s dessert specialty: a chocolate cake that had marinated for four days in French and Austrian chocolate. This cake is for chocoholics only. (4603 W Lovers Lane. 351 0378. Mon-Sat 10 am-6 pm. Closed Sun. AE. $$$)

Marty’s. Some people want to be stranded on a desert island. We’ll settle for being stranded inside Marty’s, the Oak Lawn gourmet takeout and grocery that is “essential to the epicure.” Some of us borderline epicures might approach such a place with healthy trepidation, but Marty’s is a mouthwatering wonderland of sweets, cheeses, fresh fruits, meats, vegetables and wines. Choose a picnic basket and fill it on your way to the checkout line. If you have trouble putting it all together, get a current copy of Marty’s weekly menu. We enjoyed some delicious cold lettuce soup, mushroom a la Greave, roasted stuffed squab and some heavenly banana nut cheesecake at home with our own candlelight and crystal. Our only complaint: Don’t count on Marty’s promise that “containers are oven- and microwave-safe ’ (3316 Oak Lawn. 526-4070. Mon-Sat 10 am-6:30 pm. All credit cards. $$$)

Mirabelle. Mirabelle’s menu varies daily and is incredibly inventive. The pistachio-spiced country ter-rine is an excellent pate. Salads are offered in a wide range of combinations. A good standby is the tarragon chicken salad, and there’s always a pasta salad or two, some with seafood or meat. We tried a mixture of baby shells, peas and ham strongly seasoned with fresh basil. But Mirabelle’s crowning achievements are its desserts: The fresh plum and apple tarts are excellent, as is the sour cream cheesecake offered with a peach melba sauce. The cookies and bran muffins are tops and are well worth their hefty prices. (73-74 Highland Park Village. 528-7589. Tue-Sat 10:30 am-7 pm; Sun & Mon noon-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)

D REVISITS



Frenchy Cafe. This sunny Parisian-style lunch spot has hardwood floors and several glass cases in view to tempt you with baked goods, meats and cheese. The hot roast beef sandwich on a butter croissant covered with melted cheese is light yet filling. The chocolate mousse a I’orange-creamy and rich with whipped cream on top-can quickly foil your attempt at a low-calorie lunch. Quiche, soup and fabulous pat坢s are also offered, and an assortment of Frenchy fare, along with a bottle of wine, would make an outstanding picnic. (5940 Royal. 369-1235. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-5.30 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V. $)

The Winery. Amid the vast wine stock at this shop adjacent to Jean Claude is a display case full of edible goodies perfect for eating in or carrying out. The emphasis is on freshly prepared salads and desserts and home-baked breads and cheeses-including hard-to-find varieties such as mozzarella rolled with prosciutto. Caterer Theresa Magee will make sandwich or cheese trays, antipasto plates, dips and hors d’oeuvres for parties-or you can sample her hearty soups and sandwiches with a glass of wine on the spot. (2404 Cedar Springs at Maple. 749-0250. Mon-Sat 10 am-7 pm, Sun noon-6 pm. MC, V, AE. $$$)



INDIAN



Sahib. Every time we go to Sahib we’re delighted by how pretty it is; the green, peach and bamboo decor and the gentle Indian music relaxes us. Our favorite dish is Maharaja Sahib’s mughlai biryani (lamb cooked with herbs and mixed with long-grain Indian rice, saffron, nuts, raisins and eggs). It tastes even better with some sweet mango chutney and an order of tandoori roti (Indian whole-wheat bread). Service at Sahib can be aggressive, so remember that you can turn down the “Elephant’s Memory” (a pina coladalike drink) and the mango ice cream, but enjoy the advice-the waiters will tell you exactly what to expect from each dish. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$)

Tanjore. At this small North Dallas Indian restaurant, the Middle Eastern mood comes through loud and clear with piped-in Hindi music and the tastes and smells of curry, cumin, cinnamon and coriander. Tanjore offers a large selection of vegetarian dishes as well as poultry, seafood, lamb and beef specialties. We settled on an order of lamb mugali (chunks of tender lamb in a creamy sauce with nuts) and shahi korma (boneless chicken cooked in curry with butter, cream and almonds). The sauce was spiced mildly, but not meekly, in both dishes. For something unusual, try a Tanjorita, a soothing whipped yogurt drink. (Prestonwood Creek Shopping Center, 5409 Belt Line. 691-4994. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sat 11:30-3; Sun brunch: 11:30-3; dinner: daily 6-10. BYOB; setups available. All credit cards. $$)



ITALIAN



Cremona Ristorante Italiano. Park your car on the dead-end street, wind your way around the funky little stores, find a table near a window and prepare yourself for a no-nonsense Italian meal. The ladder-back chairs, wooden blinds and starched white tablecloths lend country-inn romance. The pasta is homemade, and the sauces are innovative, delicate and subtle. You’ll relish the fresh butter and cream flavors. (3136 Routh. 742-4330. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$)



Cunze’s. It may look suspiciously like another faceless pizza shack, but Cunze’s is far from it. What you’ll find here is serious Italian food-veal scallo-pine, linguine with clams, fresh calamari (squid). Entrees come with the traditional green salad and a steaming side order of pasta in either garlic or tomato sauce. The veal and shrimp combination is an especially tasty entr坢e-thin slices of tender veal sau-t坢ed with scampi in butter, lemon and garlic. As for atmosphere, Cunze’s interior is about as formal as Mama’s kitchen, but somehow the result is almost romantic. (6101 Greenville. 369-5747. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: daily 5-11. All credit cards. $$$)

Da Piccolo. A tiny spot near Knox Street in Old Highland Park, this is a place for pleasant, unpretentious Italian fare. The calamari is delicious, and spaghetti carbonara follows nicely. The lasagna is also worth a try. Service and prices are reasonable, but beware: This place is so small that intimacy is almost impossible. (4537 Cole. 361-4247. Daily: 5:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended All credit cards. $$)

Fabio’s. If Fabio’s isn’t the first name that comes to mind when you think of Italian restaurants in Dallas, it may be because of its awkward location in the Corner Shopping Center. This shouldn’t be a concern, however, because Fabio’s offers fine Italian fare and highly attentive service. Tagliarini belleza (pasta tossed in a combination of mushrooms and seafood) and tagliarini al salmone (pasta in a salmon sauce) make it tempting to stick with the pasta, but the veal and seafood dishes-particularly the sole mugnaia (filet of sole in lemon and butter sauce)-are well worth a detour. (9800 N Central Expwy, Suite 504, in the Comer Shopping Center. 987-3226. Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 6-11 pm. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. MC, V, AE. $$$)

La Tosca. This is neither the fanciest nor the most expensive Italian restaurant in Dallas, but it may be one of the best. The elegant black-and-white tiles and black-and-white striped shirts of the waiters give the restaurant just the right touch of class. The rest is left to the food, which is deftly prepared and served. We enjoyed some fine, tender beef and red snapper as well as several different kinds of delicious, piping-hot pasta. The cheesecake is more cakelike than the kind most Dallasites are familiar with, but it is very good. (77/3 Inwood. 352-8373. Tue-Thur & Sun 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)



La Trattoria Lombardi, Ristoranti Lombardi. It would be difficult to picture a nirvana that didn’t include an occasional alfresco lunch at Lombardi’s on Hall Street. The patio is Old World-style, the breezes are fine and the offerings are among the best Northern Italian fare in town. Smart starters are a piquant combination of mozzarella, juicy beefsteak tomatoes and fresh basil leaves or a basket full of crisp-tender fried calamari. An assorted antipasto plate is truly rewarding, with ample portions and well-rounded tastes. And the Lombardi pasta is legendary, with the tortellini vying for the top slot in town. The vegetables were a bit on the skimpy side when served at lunch on Hall Street but were inspirational accents to dinner at the Adelstein Plaza location. Diced eggplant and creamed spinach cleverly wrapped in a cutout potato round were among the best dishes in a lengthy and memorable meal. In addition to creative and varying pasta entrees. Lom-bardi’s offers an impressive list of fish and veal dishes, among them a superb baby lobster, fine sea bass poached with shellfish and wrapped in foil, and veal scallopine delicately flavored with lemon and orange. Top it off with one of the Lombardi family’s souffl坢s-we sampled the raspberry, the amaretto and the chocolate. (2916 Hall, 823-6040, 528-7506; Adelstein Plaza, 15501 North Dallas Pkwy, 458-8822. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)



Prego Pasta House. As can be determined after a glance at the menu, the owner of Prego. Joe Bar-raco, is also the manager of Campisi’s. And in many cases, we found the food at Prego to be similar to Campisi’s, but the atmosphere and service are generally better. For appetizers, the artichoke hearts and scampi were passable although a bit blah (not much garlic or imagination) but the fried provolone was excellent. As a general rule of thumb, order the authentic Italian specialties, they’re all top-notch. The veal parmigiana is excellent, as is the lasagna. Pizza is the same type as Campisi’s: a thin, tasty crust with oodles of rich, thick Italian topping. (4930 Greenville. 363-9204. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

Sergio and Luciano. The setting here is not altogether satisfying-it’s half upstairs, half downstairs, and most of the action is on the upper floor. But the food is superb. The calamari (fried at lunch and served in a hot, spicy broth as an appetizer at dinner) is excellent. So is the tortellini alla panna, offered in small portions as a first course that leaves room for more. If you want pasta, you can’t do better than the fettuccine with white clam sauce. The vegetables are carefully prepared, and Sergio and Luciano serves real Italian hard rolls. (4900 Belt Line, Suite 250. 387-4441. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)

Sergio’s. Seven fine veal dishes and an array of homemade pasta highlight Sergio’s innovative, elegant menu. Our tagliarini salmone (pasta in a salmon sauce) was rich and flavorful without being heavy. The assorted hot appetizers, including shrimp, mussels and squid, were savory and delicate. The ten-tazione salad of avocado, mangoes and papayas served with walnuts and lime juice dressing made a perfect light lunch. Sergio’s dining room is semifor-mal, and the prices are surprisingly reasonable. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh, Suite 235. 742-3872. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations for dinner only. All credit cards. $$)

Sofio’s. When you step into Sofio’s, you know you’re not in just another strip shopping center restaurant; you’re in Rocky Sofio’s Italian restaurant/ pizza joint. The fried mozzarella must have been Mama’s specialty. It’s served with a rich, chunky red sauce for dipping. The antipasto for two was chock-full of Italian goodies-salami, olives and a rich assortment of marinated vegetables. For entrees, the baked lasagna and fettuccine Alfredo were winners, but the linguini with clam sauce wasn’t garlicky enough. The portions at Sofio’s are enormous (one appetizer can easily be shared), so don’t eat every bite; dessert is a must. (4021 Belt Line. 934-8121. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri 11:30 am-midnight, Sat 5 pm-midnight. Closed Sunday. MC, V, AE. $$)



MEXICAN



Cafe Rinc坲n. This breezy Mexican restaurant is several cuts above what we’ve grown to expect from establishments on Harry Hines. The colorful posters and music (which varies from New Wave and jazz to the Bandito Marching Band) makes the mood just right for a couple of margaritas and a basket or two of chips. The menu includes all the Tex-Mex you could want, as well as some fancier fish and steak offerings. The Camarones Bohemia (beer-batter shrimp) were large and tasty (owner John Rincon says that if you’re on a diet, his father -the chef-can fry them in Miller Lite). Cafe Rin-con’s tortilla soup is an edible grab bag of goodies. The patio can accommodate 100; we expect it to stay full all summer. (2818 Harry Mines. 742-4906. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)



Chiquita. This isn’t a Tex-Mex, pinata-strung establishment, but there are enough clothless tables around to make those of us who enjoy that type of place feel at home. We began our meal with the ironclad test: nachos, the bean and cheese variety. We argued over their quality; some of our more critical companions called the nachos “workmanlike and plodding.” They lacked, our friends said, the pizazz that would have made them worthy of their title. We were of one mind, however, about the entr坢es-all were hot and fresh and packed with high-quality beef and chicken. The polio en crema (strips of chicken flavored with sour cream and walnuts) and a pounded chicken dish broiled over a hickory fire were both unusual and good, but a puff taco was tasteless and stale. We also had some tangy tortilla soup, some well-spiced guacamole and crisp zucchini with just the right touch of paprika. (3810 Congress oft Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-11 pm. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)



Escondido. This place looks like a Hell’s Angels habitat on the outside; and inside, the decor is late-New York subway with spray-paint graffiti all over the ceiling. The dishes are standard no-frill, reasonable-bill Mexican food. The chicken nachos are among the best in town, and the combination platter’s tacos and salsas are top-notch. (2210 Butler. 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)



Genaro’s Tropical. This is a stylish reincarnation of a Miami hotel of the Forties transported to the corner of Live Oak and Skillman. Welcome to a triple-threat tropical feast for the eye, the ear and. of course, the palate. Enjoy rare pre-Castro Cuban and Brazilian music by the likes of Carmen Miranda and Yuma Sumac, but don’t let the aesthetic thrill of Genaro’s overshadow the surprising menu, which demonstrates that Dallas has only one showcase for genuine tropical cuisine. Of the many fine seafood creations, pez espada (swordfish kebab) deserves special mention. The charcoal-broiled cuts of fish are wrapped in spinach leaves, and the meat’s fine piquancy contrasts nicely with saut坢ed spinach and carrots. Also droolworthy are the torta del mar (an open-faced sandwich of crab meat and red snapper) and the enchiladas Genaro, filled with crab and snapper and covered with sour cream and tomatilla sauce. You can count on the standard Mexican dishes, which arrive with generous helpings of guaca-mole, black beans and tomatoes. (5815 Live Oak. 827-9590. Daily: 11 am-11:30 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Gonzalez. Rule: Avoid dining inside restaurants with a heavy takeout trade-you’ll be slighted on the amenities, especially service. Exception to rule: Gonzalez. Most of the basics here are reliable; the beans and rice are heavensent, and anything served on a corn tortilla is a winner. The hot sauce, which is both spicy and steaming, goes well with the abundant chips and almost makes up for the wimpy, bland guacamole. Puff tacos and chile rellenos are among the standout entrees, all of which cost less than $6. If you’re looking for a breakfast treat, try the chilaquillas (tortilla strips fried with eggs and peppers). You’ll find no frills here (and the voices of the drive-through patrons are a nuisance), but the food makes it all worthwhile. (4333 Maple at Wycliff. 528-2960. Daily: 7am-9 pm. All credit cards. $)



Guadalajara. This Ross Avenue hole in the wall has made itself respectable with the addition of a new door, new plate-glass windows and a brightly striped awning. We were put off at first, nostalgic about the days when roach and man ate side by side, but Guadalajara is still a far cry from elegant. Service was quicker than in the past, and our Tex-Mex requests were prepared just the way we like them. Sombreros off to Guadalajara for realizing that the charm of sleaze lasts only so long. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Fri 11 am-3:30 am, Sal & Sun 9 am-3:30 am. Closed Mon. MC, V. $)



Javier’s. Don’t visit this “gourmet Mexican” restaurant when you’re in the mood for Tex-Mex, because you’ll leave with an aching in your heart for retried beans and rice. But the alternatives here are undoubtedly a better choice. You’ll leave Javier’s filled with delicious beef, seafood or chicken dishes, desserts other than pralines and an actual vegetable. The tortilla soup is crowded with cheese, avocado slabs and smooth pasilla chiles. The nachos are fine but not too unusual, since black beans and white cheese have caught on even in Tex-Mex hot spots. Javier’s is in the big leagues for what it does to shrimp; they’re big and meaty and saut坢ed in a diablo sauce (a blend of coffee, orange juice and spices). The mushroom crepes served with corazon de filete is another tasty entree For dessert, you can’t avoid the cajeta sauce: it comes on the cheesecake and on the crepes flamb坢 and is dished over the ice cream. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 pm. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

La Calle Doce. Gracefully housed in a converted residence on 12th Street. La Calle Doce features a menu of seafood and steak specialties prepared Mexico City-style, as well as Tex-Mex basics. The atmosphere is relaxed and homey: the service, friendly and fast; the food, carefully prepared and well-presented. (475 W 12th. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11 am-9 pm, Fri 11 am-10 pm, Sat 11:30 am-10 pm, Sun 11:30 am-9 pm. MC, V, AE. DC. $$)

Mercado Juarez. We’ll admit to being impulsive with our praise for Tex-Mex houses; all at once we fall in love, returning again and again to slurp hot sauce and inhale beans. Right now we’re beside ourselves with cravings for lunch, dinner or anything in between at our new favorite dive. Mercado Juarez meets all our standards of excellence: (1) It’s cheap; (2) it’s clean; (3) it’s unaffected; and (4) we were served a lot of food. Half of the warehouse-type building is devoted to an interesting Mexican craft market; the other half houses the restaurant. The vastness of both the building and the menu scared us at first-we feared Pancho-esque automation- but somehow the staff pulled it off and served us mass quantities of superb nachos, tacos and all the trimmings. (1901 W Northwest Hwy. 556-0796. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)



D REVISITS



Casa Rosa. This is Tex-Mex 坔 la Highland Park, featuring standard dishes as well as some fancier fare -fresh chips, hot hot sauce and tender, steaming flour tortillas. Casa Rosa may have the looks and clamor of an old El Chico, but with an Inwood Village address it has to be better in order to survive. Although we’ll skip the old-fashioned tacos on our next visit (they tasted of old-fashioned grease), the rice enchiladas, nachos topped with real sour cream and the superior guacamole redeemed the meal. (165 Inwood Village. 350-5227. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11: Sat & Sun noon-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)



Moctezuma. Besides the usual Tex-Mex, Moctezu-mas features some excellent chicken and fish dishes. The nachos and the margaritas are tops. On sunny days you can sit outside on the terrace, sip a stout margarita and watch the cars go by. (3236 McKin-ney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat full menu until 11:30 pm; appetizers until 12:30 am Reservations lor six or more. All credit cards. $$)

On The Border. On the Border calls itself a “South Texas caf坢,” offering “the best mesquite-broiled foods of both Texas and Mexico (i.e., Tex-Mex).” We tried the Highland Park nachos, which were thick with two cheeses, onions and carrots as well as generous strips of mesquite-broiled beef. The tacos al carbon, filled with mesquite-broiled steak strips, were flavorful but a bit tough. Our taco salad was delicious and enormous, and the vegetarian sandwich with avocado and sprouts was perfect for lunch. On The Border also serves a meaty, cheesy, very hearty bowl of chili and some thick, juicy burgers. (3300 Knox. 528-5900. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri-Sun 11:30 am-midnight. All credit cards. $$)



FAR EAST



Asuka. This restaurant’s menu is a photo album of Asuka’s offerings, giving diners a perfect chance to whet their appetites as they read. We stuck with an old favorite, an ishiyaki kaiseki dinner that began with some appetizers for the adventurous. We wouldn’t have minded missing the small servings of raw tuna, red cabbage and seafood that preceded our meal, they seemed to be present mostly tor their shock value But the next course, a huge, sizzling platter of beef and vegetables served over hot pebbles, was a flavorful, juicy blend of tender meat and crisp vegetables. The steam from the pebbles adds much to the taste of the dish and makes dinner something like an evening at the sauna. We’re sure Asuka’s specialties are good for the complexion. (7736 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

August Moon. The menu here is vast, so go early and read it carefully. We began with a pu pu tray with the lightest fried shrimp and won ton we’ve ever tasted. August Moon Seafood Splendor and August Moon Sizzling Plate were tremendous in size and just barely seasoned, and then only to highlight natural flavors. The individual tastes of the meats and vegetables were easily distinguished and not greasy-a difficult feat with so many ingredients presented en masse. The service was polite but at times a bit hurried. (75030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11 arn-10:30 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 10:30 am-11 pm. Sun 10:30 am-10:30 pm. Dim sum served daily. Reservations for four or more or for special banquets. Bar by membership. All credit cards. $$)

Bamboo Pavilion. We began a delightful meal with stir-fried minced chicken saut坢ed with black mushrooms and the freshest, crispiest water chestnuts ever to grace a wok. Served with two pancakes and rolled for us by our waitress, the result was something like an Oriental burrito and was simply delicious. Panda’s Prawns sounded too sweet (the menu describes them as Gulf shrimp marinated in wine and honey and deep-fried), but they were crunchy and left us feeling like another Bamboo chef’s suggestion: a “Happy Family ’ Bamboo does a good job of spicing its dishes per request, the obvious key to its excellence is freshness down to every detail. (1790 Promenade Center between Belt Line and Arapaho, Richardson. 6800599. Daily: Mon-Fri 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Sat & Sun noon 10:30 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Fangti China 1. The features worth mentioning about this place are the service and the hours At all times of the day and night, the waitresses are chipper and cheerful. Since Fangti is open until five in the morning on weekends, it attracts an eclectically interesting crowd. The special soup and the hot and sour work well at late hours. The entr坢es, however, are inconsistent. (Twin Bridge Shopping Center, 6752 Shady Brook Lane. 987-3877. Mon-Fri 11:30 am-4 am, Sat & Sun 5 pm-5 am. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Fong Lin. You won’t be bombarded by glowing paper lanterns hung from the ceiling or red-and-black-flocked wallpaper here, but neither will you encounter spacious rooms filled with Ming vases. You probably won’t notice much about your surroundings at Fong Lin; they’re decidedly ordinary. But the same cannot be said of the food. We could have ended our meal happily after sampling the huge pu pu tray, but we settled on orange beef (sliced tenderloin saut坢ed in orange peel with sesame seeds) and chicken and shrimp Hunan-style (diced chicken and shrimp saut坢ed with vegetables in a Hunan sauce). We also tried the moo shu pork, a fine interpretation of another Oriental standard. (8440 Abrams, Suite 408. 343-4514. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun noon-10 pm. MC, V, AE. $$)

Forbidden City. This Chinese spot, next door to Wilson’s and in the same shopping center as three other restaurants, should be welcomed by North Dallasites. The atmosphere is quietly elegant, and the food matches the decor. Everything on our pu pu tray. from shrimp toast to won ton to ribs, was well-prepared and flavorful The tofu was tender and pleasantly spongy (as opposed to the standard recapped rubber-tire versions) Complimentary textures are important to Chinese cuisine, and though the tender chicken and crunchy walnuts were perfect, the cashew version was pulpy. The beef with oyster sauce was a pleasant version of the same theme, though the chef was stingy with the crispy pea pods. The service is friendly and efficient, but the seating is disorganized. (5290 Belt Line, Suite 144. 960-2999. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm. Fri & Sat 11 am-3 am, Sun noon-10:30 pm. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)

Lotus. Forget about being hungry again in an hour; we left this restaurant happily filled to the gills, not planning another meal until well into the Chinese New Year. Lotus runs low on swank (the ambiance is provided by standard paper lanterns and red-and-black booths), but that’s unimportant-the manager is serious about serving well-prepared, well-seasoned Hunan and Szechuan delicacies. Plump, juicy shrimp and crispy egg rolls lay in places of well-deserved honor on a flaming pu pu tray. The entrees selected by the chef for our house special were a seafood plate full of fresh, crisp vegetables tossed in a light sauce with ample crab, shrimp and scallops and a very spicy (at our macho request) chicken-and-nut dish. The two were culinary opposites, yet proved that the Lotus kitchen is ready for aficionados of either simple or spicy Oriental food. (528 W Arapaho, Richardson. 231-9200. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: dinner: daily 5-10. MC. V. AE, DC. $$)

Plum Blossom. This review differs from many others listed under “Far East” because words such as “elegance” and “charm” apply. Subtle scroll paintings, glittering tableware and well-mannered service set the mood for the somewhat flamboyantly presented meal, chosen from one of the three standard banquets (the least expensive of which has five courses). Almost every item of our Emperor’s Banquet for two was exotic. Our appetizer, a 10-flavor chrysanthemum fire pot with seafood, chicken, beef, vegetables and noodles, at least bordered on the unusual, we savored every delicate bite. We heard whispered complaints of high prices and limited quantity but were ourselves content with the number of different foods served in modest portions. After the fire pot came duck, then crab claws and shrimp in black bean sauce, Chinese vegetables, sweet and sour pork and fried custard for dessert. (Loews Anatole, 2201 Stemmons. 748-1200. Mon-Sat 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required. Jackets required. All credit cards. $$$)

Royal China. If anything enhances the experience of dining here, it’s the unfailing courtesy of the staff and the personal care lavished on diners. Not that the food needs a boost. Buck Kao’s royal prawn entrees are legendary, but lesser-known dishes such as chicken curry (moist slivers of fowl with carrots, celery, water chestnuts and onions) are always excellent. If you begin your meal with the three-delicacies soup (laden with shrimp, scallops and chicken), take on a Chinese appetizer plate (the barbecued spareribs are great) and finish up with a dish such as beet with tomato or sliced chicken with mushroom and bamboo shoots, you won’t want to consider dessert. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center. 361-1771. Daily: 11.30 am-2:30 pm & 5:30-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Sawatdee. Barbecued beef with bamboo shoots, the sort of dish one craves after Softball practice and board meetings alike, is zingy and delicious at this Upper Greenville Thai restaurant. A meal here, best begun with a small, light, crisp Siamese egg roll, is a ravaging blow to the low-sodium diet but is well worth a day of the bland in repentance. Sawat-dee’s tried rice is full of pork, shrimp, egg, tomato and onion and is not the sort of entree you abandon to read the paper. On the whole, Sawatdee is a dependable place for an Oriental feast. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30 am-2:30 pm & 5-10:30 pm; champagne lunch every Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

Sate House. We’ll give you three guesses what this restaurant means when it advertises “Indonesian Home Cooking.” If one of your guesses is “an intriguing mixture of Chinese and Dutch cuisine that takes the shape of everything from fried chicken to barbecued beef, ’ you’re absolutely right. Sate’s menu includes four dinner choices, two salads, a soup and a side dish (risolles) that, as far as we’re concerned, is essential to the Indonesian dining experience. Risolles are egg roll-type tidbits made of ragout, chicken and carrots, and they have a cheesy taste. Most Indonesian food is prepared in a rather unspectacular manner-the chicken, beef or pork is usually barbecued or fried. Coconut milk and peanut sauces make the difference in taste. Nasi Rames Special is Sate’s version of the combination platter. It’s a good introduction to dishes such as ayam pang-gang priangan, sate manis and sambal ulek. (12125 Abrams at LBJ Frwy, Suite 108. 680-2803. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; dinner: Tue-Sat 5-10; Sunday brunch 11:30-3. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. DC. $)

Siam. Siam may no longer be the only Thai restaurant in town, but it’s still irresistible. We love just about everything about the place, from the spicy curry sauces to the no-frills decor and always gracious service. A definite must-try appetizer is moo sar-tey: char-broiled, skewered pork strips served with a peanut curry sauce for dipping, accompanied by cucumber slices, red onions and hot peppers in a sweet-and-sour sauce. The skewers are a bit awkward to manipulate (table service does not include knives), but the effort is worthwhile. As for entrees, you can’t go wrong with any of the Thai offerings, especially pud poy seon (scallops. |umbo shrimp, abalone and squid combined with mushrooms, young corn, snow peas and onions) and gang ped (chicken, pork or beef slices in a red curry sauce with bamboo shoots, peppers, coconut milk and mint leaves). (7 730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$)



SEAFOOD



Banno Brothers. While you’re sitting at Banno’s listening to the raucous bleat of Dixieland |azz or watching an oyster shucker do his work, you can almost believe you’re in New Orleans. And you could practically drive there in the time it takes to get service at Banno’s on a busy Saturday night. But the wait is worth it, especially when endured with oysters on the half shell and their natural accompaniment, ice-cold beer. The broiled red snapper is buttery and nicely textured, while the crowded seafood salad makes a good meal for light eaters. Fried snapper, however, could just as well have been fried anything. The little touches are nicely done, with crunchy hush puppies (which, alas, do not come gratis) and a surprising tartar sauce with chopped onions. On the whole. Banno’s gives good weight- for the wait. (1516 Greenville. 821-1321. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11 pm. Sunday, gone fishin’. MC, V. $$)



Jozef’s. “Rough wood elegance” has become a seafood restaurant clich坢, but we can think of no better way to describe this comfortable, unpretentious, yet very fine McKinney Avenue restaurant. Prices were reasonable, service was bright and we enjoyed every bite from the bread to the cheesecake. The clean, spicy Creole shark soup is worth trying, and Jozef’s crab meat Remick and mushrooms (stuffed with crab meat) began our meal perfectly. Our lobster was moist, not overcooked, and was served with an unusually large steak. The chef’s special shrimp was beautifully served with mushrooms, shallots and a light, creamy sauce. Our only complaint was with the vegetables-although they appeared to be fresh, they arrived cold. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

S&D Oyster Company. The newly bricked McKinney Avenue outside makes S&D’s stark, casual dining room feel even more like a part of New Orleans. This is fitting, since the array of seafood offered here -oysters, shrimp, fish-is fresh and authentically prepared. The large crowd lingering outside the door speaks for the food’s reputation. S&D’s service is consistently crisp and friendly. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Spinnaker. The menu here is of manageable size; there is variety, but it doesn’t appear that the chef tries to perform beyond his means in order to impress. Our entree choices included a filet of red snapper with white wine and lemon butter, and Bouillabaisse Marsellaise, rich with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, halibut, sea bass, lobster, mussels, redfish and clams in a deliciously light, savory broth. The appetizers we sampled were very good, but we missed having salads with our meal and feel compelled to give Spinnaker counsel on its desserts: The chocolate chip-pecan pie and the strawberry tart just didn’t taste up to par (Lincoln Radisson Hotel. 5410 LBJ Frwy at Dallas N Tollway. 934-8400. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-11; Sun brunch: 10:30-3. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Fran’s. This little cafe, with its shingled walls and pots of English ivy in the windows, is a homey place tor lunch or dinner. We sampled a heaping vegetable plate of mashed potatoes, broccoli and green beans; the green beans were unusually good. Fran’s menu changes daily, but chicken-fried steak is a staple. Chicken and dumplings, beef tips with rice, meat loaf and beef stroganoff are other tasty regulars. Don’t miss the homemade banana pudding or the hot peach cobbler, either. (3005 N Hall. 741-7589. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Cash only. $)

George Wesby’s. There are those who will cringe as they read these words and learn that their long-cherished pub has been discovered. But the secret is too great to keep: George Wesby’s, we hereby proclaim, is Dallas’ best purveyor of chicken-fried steak, thick with white gravy and accompanied by huge cottage fries. There’s hardly reason to say more, to chatter on about Wesby’s burgers, hefty salads or frosty cold beer; the news of chicken-fried steak is quite enough. (3115 Live Oak. 821-1950. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: 2:30-8 pm. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



STEAKS, BURQERS, ETC.



Hoffbrau. We regret heaping more praise upon this much-adored Dallas institution only because the last time we visited-on a Monday night-we waited 30 minutes for a table. But it was no wonder, for we stood in Hoffbrau-that enchanted place where even SMU kids dress like UT kids. The steaks are large, the potatoes are fattening, the beer is cold and the music is loud. Hoffbrau may have made “Esquire’s” best eats list, but neither prices nor service seem to have suffered. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11 pm, Sun 4-10 pm. All credit cards. $$)

Tolbert’s Chili Parlor. Tolbert’s may have left Oak Lawn, but not much else has changed at this chili institution (except that the crowd’s gotten even bigger). You’ll still find good mainline Texas cooking- Tolbert’s version of chili (Texas red), burgers with every type of dressing, burritos, hearty fries and superb onion rings-but now you’ll get it served up in an even bigger warehouse-style room with even more chili cookoff photos. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sun noon-11 pm. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)

Wonderful World of Cooking. This rather plain dining room is a mecca for those who crave light, healthy lunches. We tried some chicken broccoli crepes in a light wine sauce and the ever-popular green enchiladas (which could have stood a bit more chicken and less sour cream and cheese). The chicken and broccoli dieter’s delight was too watery, but the Wonderful World’s salad plate (with spinach, chicken with walnuts and fresh fruit salads) was delightful, especially with the addition of the lemon-nut and cream cheese finger sandwiches. Use one of the sensible, light entrees as an excuse to try dessert: The fudge pecan pie and the Italian cream pie, both served hot, are out of this world. (5007 W Lovers Lane, 358-3345; 13410-G Preston Road, 386-8620; 6023 Sherry Lane, 750-0382; 621 Preston Royal Village, 739-4803; 208 Mandalay Canal, Irving, 556-2525, 602 Plymouth Park Shopping Center, 253-0666; 1305 Avenue K, Piano, 423-8815. Mon-Fri 9:30 am-6 pm. Sat 9:30 am-5 pm. Closed Sun. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11 am-3 pm. Catering and takeout available.)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. For a real slice of Texas barbecue, the place to go is still Angelo’s as far as the residents of Fort Worth are concerned. As with most respectable barbecue joints, the drawing card here is the food and drink, not the atmosphere or service (both of which are carefully disguised at Angelo’s). You order cafeteria-style from a menu above the counter. A paper plate is heaped with a choice of ribs (served after 5 pm only) or barbecued beef, potato salad, coleslaw, pickle, onion, sauce and bread. And to top it off, a large, icy beer is just the thing. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817)3320357. Mon-Sat 11 am-10 pm. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Benito’s. This is a real Mexican restaurant, not the place for Pancho-style taste buds or first-semester Spanish students. This small, family-run establishment is managed by the daughter of the former headwaiter at Caro’s, and she’s made sure her restaurant’s beans and rice are just as tasty and nongreasy as theirs. But she’s done more: Benito’s serves all sorts of Mexican breakfasts, as well as specialties such as menudo-that’s tripe, in case you don’t know; it’s supposed to be great for hangovers. (1450 W Magnolia. (817) 332-8633. Sun-Thur 10 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat 10 am-3 am. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $)



Edelweiss. Ja, it’s a bit kitsch (that’s German for a bit corny), but sometimes kitsch isn’t so bad. In fact, kitsch can be a great deal of fun. And Edelweiss proprietor and bandleader Berhdt Schnerzinger makes the most of it. A polka band cranks up every night at 7 o’clock to play renditions of old German standards while diners enjoy heaping platefuls of authentic Deutsches Essen. The Wiener schnitzel, sauer-braten, knackwurst and bratwurst are among the best we’ve tasted this side of Bavaria. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Mon-Fri 5-10:30 pm, Sat 5 pm-midnight.)



Michel. Jean Claude’s younger brother moved from Dallas to Fort Worth last September to make a name for himself; and in smashing five-star fashion, he has done just that. Michel is almost perfect. We were seated at a linen-clothed table set with tapers and fresh flowers; it was easily large enough for the four-course bounty of food to come. We tried some moist, rich duck and a thick cut of beef for our entrees, which were preceded by a hot, homemade fish pate. The assorted fresh vegetables were artistically arranged and crisp, as was the Boston lettuce salad. For dessert, we chose chocolate and strawberry souffles, both fluffy masterpieces. (3851 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-1231. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-1:30; dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat seatings at 6 and 9. Lunch is prix fixe at $13.50: dinner is $29.50. All credit cards. $$$$)