RESTAURANTS DINING OUT

LIKE REST STATIONS scattered along a lengthy and exhausting stretch of highway, department store restaurants are a stopping place for the weary, places to recharge after a morning of crowded aisles and crazed shoppers. You don’t slide into the chair prepared for a grand dining experience. You are here because you need a break and the Crazy Carrot or the Begonia Room is convenient – just two steps from the sale tables in the women’s department.

In a tour of Dallas department/specialty store restaurants, we found that it’s important to keep convenience in mind, because convenience is the only reliable specialty. Eat and go is the idea here, although you can occasionally find the kind of atmosphere that encourages lingering over coffee.

Department store restaurants fall into one of two categories: small cafes featuring limited menus, and full-scale restaurants offering a wider range of fare. Your best bet is to choose from the first category; we found that the restaurants with smaller selections had at least mastered those few items. While your options are fewer and lighter than those available in a full-menu restaurant, quality beats quantity every time.

Most department stores have both a limited-menu and full-scale menu restaurant; some have more than two. In abiding by our rule of thumb, head for the small places. And whether you go big or small, stick with simplicity – salads, sandwiches, soups.

One benefit of dining store-style is that you’ll get off relatively cheap. Lunch for one should run from $3 to $6, depending on your appetite. However, five bucks may seem too much for well-intentioned but often amateurish service and decor that makes you shudder. But if convenience is your priority, you’ve come to the right place.

Dutch Treat, Sakowitz, Sakowitz Village on the Parkway. Sakowitz is on the mark with its cafeteria-style eatery. Customers line up in front of an attractive display of fruit and vegetable salads, two choices of soup and several sandwich offerings. Friendly servers offer to heat your roast beef or turkey sandwich (made with good white bread and a decent amount of meat) before they are asked. A shrimp salad caught our eye, but it seemed overpriced at $7.50, so we settled for a cup of vegetable soup. Thick, chock-full of carrots and peas and accompanied by a sandwich, it satisfied. The Spartan decor and bare parquet floor provided a light, refreshing change from the dark, overdone decors we were accustomed to seeing. Open Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 934-8300.

Fresh Market, Neiman-Marcus, North-Park. Located on the upper level just outside the mall entrance, the Fresh Market is a great place to people-watch while spooning down a peach melba yogurt sundae. A light lunch or a healthy nosh is the rule of the day at the Fresh Market. Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and juices are attractively presented and served to diners seated in garden furniture. The yogurt concoctions are enticing, but the chicken salad with avocado suffered from insufficient seasoning and unripe avocados. Unfortunately, in following the picnic theme, the Fresh Market uses plastic plates and utensils. Open Mon-Fri 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sat 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 363-8311.

Chasers, Sanger Harris, Preston Center. More pub than café, Chasers is tucked into a cozy niche with a view of the men’s clothing department. Dark wood furniture, dim light and an impressive bar imply that Chasers is a place in which to drink rather than eat. The food has its merits. A stacked cheese board is a bargain at $4.50, though American processed cheese was one of the two cheeses included. Sandwiches, plates of sliced meat, salads and soups are offered. Even oysters on the half shell are available. If you seek spirits, a variety of beverages is available with the purchase of a drink membership – $3 for a year. Service is efficient and friendly. Open Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 987-6732.

F. W. Woolworth, Preston Center, 6038 Luther Lane. Thank goodness that time stands still in the Woolworth luncheonette. Nothing seems to have changed since we were 9 years old and considered nirvana a woolwortn grilled cheese sandwich with potato chips and a chocolate shake. The same grade-school-green tile lines the walls, half-filled ketchup bottles sit on a salt-strewn orange counter and that old jar of wilted chips hides on a back shelf. Maybe our ancient wads of bubble gum still cling to the underside of the counter. A serene, motherly waitress serves a hand-molded hamburger that she has fried herself. Frozen french fries are hot from the basket, Pepsi comes in a Coke glass without much ice, and all’s right with the world. Open Mon-Sat 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. 361-7641.

The Zodiac Room, Neiman-Marcus, downtown. In the years when Neiman-Marcus epitomized Dallas class, the Zodiac Room was the place to take people you wanted to impress. Unlike other store restaurants, the Zodiac Room stood on its own reputation. That reputation is now in danger. While the atmosphere is still elegantly soothing, the food and service are not up to par. The high points of lunch were the perks: a cup of hot broth delivered before the menu was presented; melt-in-your-mouth croissants; a dessert table laden with Neiman-Marcus bakery goodies. Bread and dessert become important when entrées are inadequate, as was the case with the smoked salmon mousse. The only flavor to this cold, tasteless orange mound was the dab of mayonnaise topping it – and that was supposed to be dill dressing. At $8.50 we expected more. A good wine sauce covered the too-chewy meat in the beef bourguignonne, but too much butter sank the accompanying sautéed vegetables. The frazzled waiter forgot such essentials as the drinks we ordered with the meal, but the pianist and strolling models restored good humor. Although it is overpriced, the Zodiac Room is still the place for quiet conversation and an unhurried lunch. Full-service bar. Open Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 3:45 p.m. 573-5800.

The Carnation Room, Sanger Harris, downtown. The most memorable features of the Carnation Room are its supercilious maitre d’ and its haphazard interior design. With great pomp and circumstance, the maitre d’ escorts diners to their tables and ceremoniously plants napkins in their laps. The glitzy decor includes gold wallpaper, antique-white chairs of some best-forgotten period, marble-topped tables and a flower-fixture chandelier. As one of our companions observed, “It’s like eating in a powder room.” The menu offers the basics – salads, sandwiches and soups – plus several heartier entrees, such as veal Francais and filet mignon. There was something wrong with every dish we tried: The chicken gumbo needed more seasoning, the crust of the chicken and broccoli quiche was soggy, and the Black Forest ham and Brie sandwich was cold instead of hot. Carrot cake and a custard cream puff soothed us. Full-service bar. Open Mon-Fri 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. 749-3734.

Mister J’s, Joske’s, downtown. Two visits to Mister J’s confirmed our initial suspicion: Don’t bother going unless you’re starving. Mister J’s is intended to resemble the lawn of a gracious Southern plantation: Enormous plastic trees sproutfrom green carpet, white latticework isstrewn at random and the salad bar is apicket-fence cart. The effect is oddly intimidating. More dining options are available here than in other full-scale restaurants, but quality is consistently lacking.Burgers are served without so much as onechip or french fry; pressed turkey, insteadof the real thing, graces the sandwiches;the overcooked omelet of the day lookedlike a giant fried egg. The french fries werecold, but the desserts – apple pie and appletart – were served hot enough to burn thetongue. Not unexpectedly, the fresh-from-the-box cheesecake was one of thebest choices on the menu. Open Mon-Fri11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. 749-1029.

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



DISCOVERIES



(Serendipitous Experiences Off the Beaten Path) Bon Appetit. The owners of this downtown luncheon spot advertise it as a gourmet salad bar, and their claims aren’t hyperbole. There’s always a rich, thick soup-usually either mushroom or celery- and salmon-macaroni salad, homemade chicken salad or chunky tuna salad. Plus fresh spinach, lettuce, mushrooms, tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, cheese, ham and bacon toppings, and.pine nuts. Though the list is extensive, the owners hustle to keep everything looking fresh and attractive; none of the usual salad bar picked-over look here. Also available are baked potatoes, hot breads, petit fours and tarts, wine and beer. The salad price is by the ounce, so it’s easy to rack up a $4 lunch. But you can always skimp on dinner. For the early risers, Bon Appetit serves hot homemade muffins and coffee and tea, starting at 7:30. (1900 Pacific. 749-0044. Breakfast: Mon-Fri 7:30-11; Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-4; no dinner. $)



CONTINENTAL



Calluaud’s. This restaurant should be in a class with some of Dallas’ more elegant continental restaurants. But on several recent visits, we found dining here to be a frustrating experience. The food is still superior, but the service has been absent-minded and downright unfriendly. On one occasion, we had to ask our waiter to take our order. Then, once we ordered, he couldn’t remember who had which entree. (For the money one can spend at Calluaud’s, it is not too much to assume that waiters come equipped with ESP.) But once served, we concentrated on Calluaud’s fine continental cuisine. The delicate lobster soufflé and the garlicky es-cargots de bourgogne topped with tiny puffed pastry are excellent openers. Those with ravenous appetites should avoid the scallops in white wine and cream sauce, which can be consumed in two bites. The artichoke hearts served with a smooth mustard and honey sauce are good, with no vinegary bite. And Calluaud’s offers an extensive list of entrees including a flaky, deliciously seasoned turbot with champagne and truffles. If your tastes run more toward wild game, the restaurant also serves a notable quail and a juicy duck steak with lime. To complete the meal, ordering the hazelnut or Grand Marnier soufflé is an absolute must. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30, Fri & Sat seatings at 6 and 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. Jackets required for men. MC, V. AE. $$$$)

La Vieille Varsovie. The Old Warsaw is in danger of becoming a restaurant in which food no longer holds center stage. Although the waiters serve with flair and theatricality, something is wrong in the kitchen. On two visits we had a tough duckling with kiwi fruit and raspberry vinegar, a mushy filet of sole stuffed with crab, salads swimming in dressing, fresh asparagus ruined by overcooking and green beans with far too much garlic. The fish paté was graced with a delicate lobster sauce, but the mersault had not been properly incorporated into the other sauce, giving it an alcoholic taste. The champagne sauce for the poached salmon was better, but the fish was dry. And nothing we ate merited the expense of the high-priced wine list, which began (with few exceptions) at $25 and averaged $65 a bottle, or half the price of a dinner for two. We had been advised to try the fresh lobster, the Dover sole with lemon butter and the rack of lamb-dishes that are not the test of French cooking, but are probably more manageable. Twice, we were seated beside the huge cabinets on which the waiters perform their handiwork. Surely more of this work could be done in the kitchen, where someone should be tasting and checking the food. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6-midnight. Reservations. Jackets and ties required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Les Saisons. Here you’ll get what restaurant critics call a “dining experience.” The food is French, the waiters are French (or are at least good impersonators) and the decor is set roughly in turn-of-the-century suburban Paris. Meals at Les Saisons are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent. There are very tew surprises, and they come only when an appetizer or entree is exceptional instead of just top-notch. If you’re searching for nouvelle cuisine or traces of its influence, don’t make your reservations here. The menu at Les Saisons is a testament to the theory that good things come to those who like to dine out and order the same old thing. There are some interesting twists like roast Cornish hen with tarragon sauce, braised sweetbreads and sirloin saut坢 with Roquefort cheese and green peppercorns. Among those, we found the sweetbreads suffering from a case of mistaken identity. They were cooked to the consistency of boiled chicken livers and were covered with tomatoes and mush-mnmt the whole concoction lacked poiqnancv We enjoyed the rack of lamb, the shrimp Les Saisons (which is an appetizer at dinner and a main course at lunch) and the combined seafood dishes. The most pleasurable course was actually the first-we sampled sumptuous escargots bourguignon and a most memorable Caesar salad. The desserts were pretty awful, but if you must have something sweet, you’ll have 10 traditional choices to anticipate here. Avoid the profiteroles maison, mummified puff pastries with chocolate sauce on inexpensive vanilla ice cream. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight, Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. One of the pleasures of the carefully calculated decor of the Mansion is its golden lighting, which enables the diner to see not only his perfect green salad, but also the contemporary nobility on the terrace-visiting movie stars and international financiers. Noble is the word for the Mansion’s peasant dish, tortilla soup. It should be exported to the restaurant’s parent company, New York’s 21 Club. But we wouldn’t mind at all if the New Yorkers took back their bland chicken hash with Mornay sauce. In other sauces, the Mansion excels. The bé arnaise sauce that came with the grilled red snapper was so light, smooth and tasty that you could put it on cardboard and swear you’d had a good meal. And the duck served with a brown, not-too-strong garlic sauce was topped with a slice of duck liver pate that deserves a place of its own on the menu. A too-lemony veal sauce was disappointing, given the subtlety of the other sauces. Service is brisk, efficient and French, without annoying theatrics. If only the desserts were as good as they looked. The raspberry torte was a chaotic mixture of sour raspberries, brick-like chocolate and bland whipped cream. The restaurant encourages the smoking of fine cigars from its 21 collection, a problem if you are inhaling the enticing aroma of a juicy breast of pheasant with chanterelles, and your neighbor lights up. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Lunch: Mon-Sat noon-2:30; Brunch: Sun 11-2:30: Dinner: Sun 6-10, Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11; Supper: Mon-Thur 10:30-midnight, Fri and Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)

Pyramid Room. With its potted, leafless trees; high, bare, brown walls; and bland, green, high-backed chairs, the Pyramid Room is the most austere room in Dallas. When we visited, the staff was short-handed and apologetic for delays, but despite the strain, was courteous and thorough. The Pyramid specializes in flourishes of service and display. A huge piece of fresh matzo cracker was set in a holder made of fresh banana bread, a display guaranteed to set your teeth on edge if you are made uneasy by conspicuous consumption. The name of the person who made the reservations is embossed on the books of matches on the table. The captain plucks the napkins from the table and settles one on the lap of each guest. The Italian wine steward is charming and tunny. The house paté of fish and lob-ster with two sauces was delicate yet flavorful, as was the sauce with a 2-inch thick steak au poivre. But the mushroom hors d’oeuvre, cassoulet dor-donaise, was bland and flavorless, not up to the $7 charge. Perfection, of course, is what is expected at the Pyramid Room’s prices. The veal in the paup-piette de veau Bonaparte was tender, but also coarse and grainy. For lunch we had a few fine slices of Irish smoked salmon, but the oysters Kirkpatrick were cool, and our vegetables were undercooked. The Pyramid is struggling and is sometimes very good, but the time has gone when it dominated continental dining in Dallas. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: MonFri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



ITALIAN



La Tosca. With its black-and-white-checked tile floor, expansive archways and soft lighting, La Tosca exudes stark elegance. Fortunately, the food is up to par with the lovely, understated surroundings. An excellent inclusion on La Tosca’s menu is the octopus salad, tender slices marinated in lime juice and spices. Another flavorful appetizer from the ocean is the pepata di vongole or cozze (clams with tomatoes, garlic and black pepper). La Tosca offers an extensive selection of pasta, including a spicy orecchiette all’ arrabbiata (ear-shaped macaroni with red pepper, garlic and tomato sauce). As far as veal entrées go, we relished the scaloppine al marsala-tender, buttery veal that practically melted in our mouths. The involtini nicola (veal scallop filled with prosciutto, cheese and herbs) will be appreciated by those with a taste for the spicy Italian ham, which overpowered the veal. With the exceptions of the profitterol al cioccolato (a cream-filled puff pastry dribbled with chocolate) and ice cream with Strega (an Italian liqueur), desserts should be forgotten. Service can be intimidating and out of sync with the elegance of the restaurant. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Sun, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombardi. Sometimes success can ruin a good restaurant. Management, intoxicated by the length of the waiting line, gets overconfident. Quality plummets. Prices climb beyond what is reasonable. Recent visits convince us that, while it would be premature to conclude that La Trattoria Lombardi has been ruined by its past success, the undeniable fact is that the place is slipping. The signs of culinary complacency are beginning to manifest themselves in the pasta. It is frequently overcooked; it is universally overpriced. We recommend avoiding the maleficent manicotti and the languid linguini; instead go for the veal (the veal with lemon butter, veal marsala and saltimbocca alla romana are all excellent), the homemade soups (the minestrone is one of the best in the city) or the frit-tata (great little Italian omelets with ham, cheese, mushrooms, peppers and a tangy tomato sauce). We also recommend the sole with lemon butter, although we’ve been disappointed in some of the other fish selections, such as the mussels with marinara sauce, the clams with white wine sauce and the linguini with clam sauce. Desserts can be superior, especially the homemade ice creams (there are five to choose from). And while the food has slipped a notch, the service definitely hasn’t; it’s among the most hospitable found in Dallas. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario’s. Forget the pizzeria-style Mama mia down-home influence that has crept into so many Italian restaurants these days-Mario’s is strictly a first-class, elaborately elegant establishment. Smooth and purposefully low-key, Mario’s is perfect for people who enjoy the experience of dining out. But it’s literally impossible to be inconspicuous here-if you’re easily intimidated you might consider dining elsewhere. Since each table is attended by numerous waiters, diners can expect their every move to be monitored: Napkins will be placed in laps, cigarettes lighted, proper serving methods demonstrated and wine consultations provided upon request. Luckily, the food is worth all the pomposity. Although many of Mario’s appetizers are somewhat uninspired, the pasta dishes (most are available in either appetizer or main course portions) and the veal entrés are all first-rate. Our veal piccata was extremely tender and just lemony enough to soothe the palate. The saltimbocca alla Mario (scallops of veal with prosciutto and mozzarella in a white wine sauce) was equally impressive. And the fettucine alla carbonara (fettucine with ham, onion, white wine, heavy cream and fresh Parmesan) arrived piping hot-the thin, delicate noodles practically spilling over the edge of the bowl in a subtle but satisfying sauce. For an elegantly appropriate conclusion, try one of Marios outstanding souffles. (735 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-10:30, Sat 6-midnight. Reservations. Jackets required tor men. All credit cards. $$$)



MEXICAN



Chiquita. With its pastel tablecloths, candles and the color-coordinated costumes of the waiters, Chiquita is out of the ordinary when compared to most Tex-Mex places in town. Therefore, it’s appropriate that Chiquita excels with its out-of-the-ordinary specialties. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with the standard combination dinner offerings; it’s just that you can do as well or better elsewhere. But when it comes to dishes like carne asada tampico style (filet mignon with sautéed green pepper and onions) or filete de la casa (filet mignon with garlic and hot peppers), you can’t match Chiquita’s combination of top-quality beef and skillful preparation. We’ve found that chicken and seafood specialties have not lived up to the standard of the beef dishes. But don’t miss the tortilla soup-a rich, oniony tomato broth with tortilla strips and melted white cheese. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

Escondido. If you stick to the original eatery on Butler Street and forget the new place on Maple, you’ll find substantial stick-to-the-ribs Tex-Mex, with the chicken nachos among the best in town and the other entries up to standard no-frill, reasonable-bill Mexican food. The combination platters rate As for tacos, F’s for the tamales. Both salsas, red and green, get A’s. Atmosphere-wise, the place looks like a Hell’s Angels habitat on the outside, and inside, the decor is late New York Subway, with spray-can graffiti all over the ceiling. So, forget the surroundings and order the chicken nachos. (2210 Butler. 631-9912 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards $)

Mario & Alberto. Who among us has not known Mexican restaurants at their worst: multicolored pinatas swinging low over full-masted need-some-more-tortilla-chips flags; waitresses in short, ruffled dresses. Mario & Alberto is none of the worst-it is a completely pastel dining experience, like a meal inside a great peach petit four. The dining room, lit by clusters of votive candles (we resisted an urge to say Mass) and made cheery by paper flower arrangements and color wheel placemats, may be a tad overdone, but it’s a soothing success. Mario looks like its sister restaurant, Chiquita, but the food is much better. Strong margaritas, good chips and hot sauce, chicken nachos and flautas con crema set a fine mood for main courses chosen from a vast menu (which includes everything from standard bean and taco plates to zucchini stuffed with ground sirloin). The tenderloin filet specials were tender, and filete a la pimienta was delicious. But the carne asada tampico-style could have been more vigorously seasoned. The pescado marinero, a white fish filet rolled with spinach stuffing and topped with a more-than-generous helping of oyster sauce, was tasty for a while, but a little too much of a good thing. The alambres, a shish kebab, arrived with a tasty soft taco ranchero and a potato de la casa. Desserts were smooth and well-chosen for a pastel restaurant: cinnamon ice cream and kahlua ice cream pie. (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)



Newcomer: Pepe’s Café. Pepe’s is a marriage of good basic Tex-Mex and unpretentious but gracious surroundings and service. The owner and employees manage authentic fare of everyday Mexicana (nachos, tacos, refritos, etc.) without the usual dirty-Formica atmosphere of such establishments. There are even tablecloths. We’ve tried the rellenos, the nachos, the flautas, a couple of the pork dishes, and found them all delicious, the meat tender and not overcooked, the sauces spicy The combination nachos and flautas appetizer plate is an excellent starter, or makes a great meal by itself. Breakfast is served, too, from 9 until 11 a.m. (3011 Routh. 698-9445. Mon-Fri 10:30-2:30 & 5:30-10. Sat 10:30-10. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)



Raphael’s. We’ve been conditioned to expect the best Mexican food from only the smallest, dimmest, raunchiest little shanties that top the health department’s “Condemn Tomorrow” list. We’ve grown suspicious of civilized Mexican restaurants, guessing that their best is only fresh from the freezer. But Raphael throws a kink in this philosophy. The food is better than average, the surroundings are pleasant, the prices are comparable to our favorite dives, and our tires weren’t slit while we dined. We thought for a while that Raphael’s was slipping a bit in quality, but during this visit we had few complaints. The generous portions of enchiladas rancheras were meaty and topped with a tasty tomato sauce, but other enchiladas we ordered were served with a rather ordinary cheese topping. The pescado veracruzano, a difficult dish to prepare, was not overcooked and the sauce was well-spiced with green peppers and mushrooms. The best parts of our meal were the beginning and the end. For appetizers, try the quesadillas, especially if you are a grilled cheese fanatic at heart. The sopapillas con fresas we had for dessert were a little short on fruit, but they filled what little room we had left. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. All credit cards. $$)



ORIENTAL



Asuka. You may feel as though you’ve waltzed into a tourist trap when the kimono-clad waitress shuffles over to your table and presents you with the menu: a photo album filled with 3 x 5-inch glossies of the food you’re about to consume. Nevertheless, eating at Asuka is a soothing experience that will transport you 1,000 miles away from the construction and congestion 50 yards outside the door. For dinner, sit Japanese-style (the setup here is easy on American lower backs) and try any one of the Kaiseki dinners. If you order something large, such as the Asuka Kaiseki, there’s no need to order sashimi or sushi (raw fish is included with the meal). We’ve also sampled the Ishiyaki Kaiseki-beef and vegetables served over sizzling stone pebbles-and found it delightful. At lunch the service is slow, but the food is just as palate pleasing and pretty. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. AE, V, MC, DC. $$$)



D Revisits August Moon. We liked the service. We liked sitting next to a babbling fountain filled with lively, orange goldfish. But the food didn’t overwhelm us with its deliciousness. On the walls of the outer hall, August Moon’s management displays photographs of its most elaborate banquet dishes: food specially arranged in the shape of dragons and birds. The menu mentions that a catering service is readily available, so we began to get the idea that August Moon likes to save its overwhelming for bigger parties and bigger bucks. What you’ll get on an ordinary day is fancier than what you’ll find in a neighborhood Chinese place, but we ordered four different dishes one night and found that the flavorful sauces left on the plate after the meat and vegetables were gone all tasted the same: dull and not nearly spicy enough for our preferences. The best of the group was the spicy and tangy lamb listed as a specialty, although the snow peas in our toss-fried beef dish seemed particularly crisp and fresh. The appetizers are fun: We liked the curried beef hibachi (it’s a little like the Mosatay at Siam) and the rumaki, in particular. Our impulse to order ham-and-winter melon soup didn’t quite pay off. It tasted gingery, a little sweet and slimy, but we grew fonder of it as we got deeper into the bowl. On a return luncheon visit, we sampled the Mongolian barbecue and liked it very much, although, despite the fact that it had an asterisk next to its number on the menu, the chef had obviously tempered the spic-iness to suit Cream-of-Wheat North Dallas tastes. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10:30. Reservations for eight or more. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, DC. $$)



Fangti China 1. The features worth mentioning about this place are the service and the hours. We’ve been by at all times of the day and night and the waitresses are always chipper and cheerful. Because Fangti is open until six in the morning on weekends, it attracts an eclectic crowd ranging in attire from sophisticated to scruffy. The issue then becomes not so much good Chinese food as available Chinese food that’s not too bad. We like the soups and fried dumplings best here. The special soup and the hot and sour work well at late hours after you’ve closed your neighborhood pub at 2 a.m. The entrees, however, are inconsistent. Some look as though their components were chopped by a myopic samurai swordsman. We’ve tried a couple of the beef dishes (they tasted the same) and the prawns in hot sauce, all of which were utterly unspectacular. The paopao (pu pu) platter is no better. But the black-and-gold-flocked wallpaper gives Fangti a certain sort of charm. (Twin Bridge Shopping Center, 6752 Shady Brook Lane. 987-3877 Sun-Thur 11 am-4am, Fri&Sat 11 am-6am. AE, DC, MC. V.)

Sakura. We were put off almost at once on both visits when the waitress left us alone for 10 minutes with a four-page drink menu illustrated with drawings of exotic coconut drinks and fruit juice concoctions. We know man cannot live by sushi alone, but we found this liquor-pushing tactic offensive, particularly because we were hungry and had come to eat. We were atypical Sakura customers then, for the program here seems designed for local busi-nesspeople on expense accounts entertaining out-of-town businesspeople on expense accounts. There are, no doubt, numerous arguments over who’s going to pick up the tab (which is apt to be fairly hefty). There is a $15 fee for the tatami rooms, but you can sit on the floor and wear Japanese “happy robes” for free. If raw fish is what you’re interested in. skip the shenanigans and step directly to the sushi bar. If someone on a bottomless expense account takes you to Sakura, order anything with beef and avoid dishes with lobster. The latter are rare renditions of our favorite crustacean, which, sadly, has tasted as though it’s been freezer-burned every time we’ve sampled it here. If you sit upstairs, a very dexterous man will prepare the dishes before you on a grill. Downstairs, it’s quieter in the early evening until the pianist begins to play Fats Waller tunes in the bar. And then, of course, you can always anesthetize yourself with those drinks. (7402 Greenville near Walnut Hill. 361-9282. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits Sawatdee. The food has improved considerably since Sawatdee’s opening, and if your culinary tastes are inclined toward the adventurous and experimental, this is truly an excellent place to dine. But be sure to clearly indicate to your waiter how spicy you like your food. On one visit, we were mistaken for American clods and our entrees came quelled. On another occasion, our dining partner ordered the hot and sour prawn salad and then couldn’t eat it because it was too hot. We have tried all six of the appetizers and disliked only the barbecued meatballs and the pattaya crab. But the best of openers would be any of the soups; our favorite is the poa-tak for two, a pungent broth with spicy seafood components and a lemony aftertaste. Among the specialties of the house, we’ve sampled the red chicken curry, the south sea scallop and the dinner portion of moo satay. A nice second entrée with　any of the aforementioned dishes would be the crab pad chan, a lightly seasoned dish of sliver-thin noodles. Our only complete miss was the princess favorite chicken, which must have been named after a princess long dead or dishonored-the dish reminded us of the sweet-and-sour Cantonese dishes served in bad carry-out Chinese restaurants. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30-11, Lunch special: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. AE, MC, V. $$)

Taiwan. This restaurant is dressier and a bit more expensive than a lot of Chinese places in town, but it stands head and shoulders above most of them when it comes to food. Owner-manager Scott Sheu is said to have brought his staff to Dallas straight from San Francisco, and there is a certain sophistication and California-like vastness to the menu. The choices, particularly in terms of appetizers and soups, are more varied here. We tried the Kuo-Teh meat dumplings and found them well worth the 15-minute wait they take to prepare. Of the seven soups, we tried the hot and sour (which was a good interpretation of its namesake), and the sizzling rice soup for two. The flaming pu pu platter is among the best we’ve had in town, and the spare ribs are unusually large and lean. The kitchen is at its best with the hot and spicy Szechuan dishes. But even our tender-mouthed friends found the unspiced entrees rather bland. We liked the Peking beef and princess shrimp and chicken. We also tried the beef sizzling iron plate and a wonderful vegetable dish of crisp snow peas, water chestnuts and peerless mushrooms. The service ranges from nerve-wrack-ingly overattentive to somewhat absent-minded. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Sat 11:30-3 am, Sun 10-11. Reservations. MC, V. AE $$$)



SEAFOOD



Fausto’s. The only thing Fausto’s has going against it is that it is located in the same hotel with an expensive, bad restaurant: Antares. First-time visitors to the Hyatt Regency Hotel try Antares because of the spectacular view atop Reunion Tower and come away disappointed with the food. Hotel patrons assume that if Antares can’t serve a good meal, neither can Fausto’s. That assumption is wrong. The menu is ambitious: Tender and sweet frog legs, juicy swordfish steak, a tasty shark gumbo, poached salmon steak topped with a luscious green peppercorn sauce and an excellent version of duckling in lingonberry sauce are among the broad range of culinary triumphs. And attention is paid to the supporting cast: marbled black and rye bread toast with Parmesan cheese that arrives before the menu, homemade pear sorbet perched atop an orange half to clear your palate before the main course, fresh strawberries stuffed with chocolate mousse after the dessert, and a fine assortment of homemade soups and chowders at lunch. All this caloric decadence is served up in a darkened dining room that is one of the plushest eating areas in the city. Service is attentive but not hovering. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11; Fri & Sat 6-mid-night; Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. All credit cards. $$$$)

Jozef’s. Jozef’s hasn’t made up its mind to get everything right, so choose carefully. Begin with smoked freshwater trout with horseradish sauce, though you may want more horseradish in the sauce. The mushrooms stuffed with crab meat imperial are peppery enough, though, as was the fish soup. The crab meat Remick was delightful. Filet of sole Grenobloise was machined into a perfect triangle-too geometrical for the eye-and the capers and croutons added little to the dish. The potatoes and vegetables, sodden with butter, were awful. Avoid the shrimp in soggy beer batter with an orange sauce that resembles marmalade. You’re better off sticking with the basics, like live Maine lobster or char-broiled fish of the season We had a seafood luncheon salad that seemed to have been prepared hours in advance and was bland from refrigeration, very much like the piece of Roquefort cheese we were served. For dessert we had a tasty blueberry cheesecake and an ordinary parfait, after being warned to stay away from the chocolate mousse by a helpful waiter who was attentive but never overbearing. (2719 McKinney, 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits Seascape Inn. In only a short period this seafood restaurant has taken a position among Dallas’ finest restaurants. We’re happy to report that nothing has happened to jeopardize that standing. On recent visits we found the terrine of salmon appetizer light and subtle, its butter sauce delicate. The smoked trout was served at the perfect temperature, the flavor smoky but not overpowering. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. We had a Dover sole Veronique that was light and elegant, the sauce again not overpowering, important with the elusive sole flavor. The salmon in puff pastry featured perfectly prepared fish in a pastry that was flaky and buttery. The desserts are complementary: light and flavorful, especially the homemade pies and the pecan cheesecake. Another plus at Seascape is the som-melier, Johana Ewing, who is always helpful and gracious. In fact, gracious best sums up the service and atmosphere: elegant without being pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: Dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. AE, V, MC. $$$)



S & D Oyster Company. Never mind the ever-escalating number of posh seafood restaurants in Dallas, S&D could easily survive for years just on its substantial assemblage of regulars who would much rather fight the growing crowds than switch And understandably so; S&D consistently provides seafood cultists with uniformly superior fare. Sure, the interior isn’t quite as snazzy as many of its newer competitors and S&D’s desserts rank right down there with the worst of the lot, but when it comes right down to it, who cares? S&D has some of the best fresh seafood in Dallas. Period. The broiled whole flounder we had (which our waiter deftly carved before us) was light and fluffy and-most important-fresh. Even the fried shrimp, which was cooked in an incredibly flavorful batter, was worth coming back for again and again. The oyster loaf sandwich (fried oysters served on a buttered bun with tartar sauce and ketchup) is a good idea, but is almost too messy and complicated to be worth the hassle. And unfortunately, it doesn’t even come with S&D’s great sides: crisp coleslaw, crunchy hush puppies and french fries. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Turtle Cove. Ordering at Turtle Cove is very simple: Get the fresh seafood broiled over a mesquite wood fire, the scent of which fills the restaurant. The mesquite provides a low, moist heat that cooks seafood perfectly. We ordered flounder one night, two of which were on display on ice in the front of the restaurant. The waiter brought us one of what he said was a smaller fish (approximately the size of the platter), which was impossible to finish. The chef believes that by broiling fresh whole fish with the head and tail on, the fish holds its freshness and flavor longer. He’s right. And along with a seafood entree comes a choice of two extras. Avoid the iceberg lettuce salad; instead try the mesquite-broiled vegetables (zucchini, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms and onions). The onion rings and fries are good, if you can find room for them. We made a mistake and ordered crab legs, which were not bad, but nothing special. Stick to the fresh seafood. For appetizers, try fresh oysters and broiled shrimp. The banana fried in beer batter with vanilla ice cream seems a little much for dessert, given the portions served. The menu requires something light and sweet, not heavy and fried. (2737 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Mon-Sat: 11-11, Sun noon-11. MC, V. AE. $$)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



The Bronx. Some people refer to it as atmosphere; others call it ambiance. Whatever it is, The Bronx has it. It would be impossible to pinpoint what The Bronx is reminiscent of-it’s somewhere between Soho chic and Southern simplicity. But whatever it is, it works: The Bronx is a great place to sit back and relax, no matter who you are. Sure, the menu is limited, but its offerings are almost always sure bets. Entree specials and vegetable choices vary from day to day. The meat loaf plate (served with a salad, vegetable and roll) can’t be beat at $4,95. Assorted quiches, omelets and salads all bear sampling, as do the daily soups (the chowder and cream of broccoli are especially tasty). And for the thirsty crowd, The Bronx has daily wine specials; not to mention the best (and biggest) glass of spiced tea around. But be prepared to wait-there’s usually a line out the door. And the service here can be unforgivably slow. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-12:30, Fri 11:30-1:30. Sat noon-1:30. MC, V. $$)

Hoffbrau. Once again we’ve found the atmosphere at this delightfully Austinesque steak shop to be its primary charm. Sink into the deep vinyl (deep because the springs are shot) booths, put your elbows on the table, have a beer and listen to the genuine Texas accents of the polyester-clad cowboys (the real kind that let you know, in case you doubted, that this is a real steak restaurant). You’ll leave as full as your Levi’s can handle for less than $10, and if you ’re into real and beautiful self-abuse, there’s a H?agen-Dazs two doors down for dessert. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun 5-11. All credit cards. $$)

Newcomer: Papa Zaby’s Cafe. A cross between Dixie House (up the road) and Little Gus’ (down the street), Papa Zaby’s is the best thing that’s materialized in me lower Lower Greenville Avenue area in about a year. For weekday breakfasts, it’s a tremendous find; the food is far superior to Gus’, Char-Bar’s or John’s, but it is also higher priced. Weekend breakfasts and brunches are a little more hectic, but the crowd is quite congenial: The place takes on the air of a college-town coffee house; lower Greenville Avenue poets, potters and film makers proliferate. The omelets are all stuffed full and fluffy. Biscuits, gravy and hashbrowns come on the side. The biscuits are good when hot but fairly gross when cold (as are most biscuits), and our only complaint is with the hashbrowns, which are unimaginative, oily and sometimes underdone The French toast is a thick and lightly crisped production, battered, deep-fried and sweetened with fluffy flecks of powdered sugar. Friends have had unsatisfying experiences at night with Papa Zaby’s Italian food, but we thoroughly enjoyed the chicken-fried steak on one visit, served with a bacony country gravy, mashed potatoes and the vegetable of the day (which was, for us, an entirely satisfying and fresh-tasting serving of yellow squash). Papa’s also boasts a diversified selection of imported beers. (2114 Greenville. 821-4563. Mon-Fri 6 am-11 pm, Sat 8 am-11 pm, Sun 11 am-11 pm. AE. V.)

INDIAN



India House. Let’s face it: Not that many Dallas diners know the difference between alu tikki and tan-doori chicken. Selections like these are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. But even if you don’t know what you are eating at India House, you’ll discover one thing quickly: It’s very good. Both the tandoori chicken and beef, marinated delights served with shovel-sized portions of fluffy rice, are tasty, if extremely filling. And the appetizers, such as chicken chat (chunks of chicken served with mint chutney) are superb. Abundant fresh-from-the-oven breads are excellent. India House also offers a lunch buffet, which sometimes gets a little disorganized when the crowd starts to outnumber the waiters by too high a ratio. Dinner service, however, is extremely attentive. Save room for dessert; the cheese balls in sweet milk are delightful. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri&SatS-11. Reservations. MC.AE, V. DC, CB. $$)

Sahib. We can think of no better introduction to the pleasures of Indian food than dinner at Sahib. On visual terms alone, the place is commendable: Gauze canopies float over a lovely teal and peach color scheme. Fortunately, the food equals the decor-if you know what to order. What to order is Maharaja Patiala Sahib’s Dinner, an assortment of Sahib’s specialties that includes wonderful preparations of chicken, lamb and shrimp. What not to order is Lord Curzon Sahib’s Seafood Dinner, an assortment of overcooked, flavorless seafood. The $6.95 lunch buffet (somewhat misleadingly referred to as “brunch” on weekends) seems to have dropped in quality. The Indian salads are still tasty, but the main courses we tasted were overcooked. And service is a bit abstracted. (9100 Caruth Plaza. 987-2301. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$)



NATURAL FOODS



D Revisits Marvins Garden. There is an earthy charm about this small, comfortable restaurant that we have not felt elsewhere in Dallas. During every visit, we’ve noted the number of young artist-types eating alone while reading or writing in a spiral notebook. We imagine this to be a place for radical conversation, for contemplation on Russian literature and innovative schemes to publish first short stories. We hesitate to criticize the restaurant for blandness, but the food we’ve tried has been intensely so. Our taste buds may be tainted by the flashy foods of the fast-lane establishments, and we bow to whole-someness and grain, but with at least one selection, purity is overdone. One diner’s polite trudge through the vegetable plate was intensely flavorless. (You get what you ask for-not butter, not spice, not bread, not rice. Vegetables. Lots of ’em. Steamed.) The peanut butter smoothie was a nice idea, but decidedly lacking in zeal. The Mexican offerings seem consistently good. The Sunday brunch, we hear, is a laid-back work of art. On each visit, we’ve left complaining of slow service. This time, our waitress was quicker and tried very hard to please us, but still the kitchen was slow. We won’t waste time complaining again; if you’re in a hurry and have no interest in engaging conversation, go somewhere else. (6033 Oram at Skillman. 824-5841. Sun-Thur 11-10:30; Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V. DC. $$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. If Chrysler could turn out autos the way Angelo’s assembles and delivers lunch-hour sandwiches, there would be no need for a bail-out. The coordinator takes your order, dabs sauce on a bun and spins the bun onto a precise spot in front of the cutter. The cutter loads the bun with juicy, tender meat, crowns it and passes it back to the coordinator, who wraps it without looking. The counter help hands you your sandwich, takes your money and yells “large.” A 12-ounce frosty mug of draft Budweiser costs 70 cents; an 18-ounce mug of the same costs 80 cents. That’s why the counter keeps yelling “large.” There is no better barbecued beef in Fort Worth than at Angelo’s. And there are a couple of sleepers here, too, known only to the regulars. There hasn’t been a bargain around like the $1.20 hot link sandwich with sauce, pickles and onions since the demise of the nickel Coke. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357, Mon-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Cattlemen’s. There are ups and downs here, but the prime steak is definitely an upper. First-time visitors are excited by the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old Stockyards area. The restaurant exterior with its weathered facade promises a return to the days when this was the gathering point for the journey up the Chisholm Trail. But the interior is a letdown. There’s nothing much to see except the pictures of blue-ribbon beeves displayed to document tne superb quality of meat that has been devoured here. (There’s one picture of a horse that is undoubtedly displayed for some other reason.) But when the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. The Saturday night service reminded us of the service on the Braniff flight to Oklahoma City: frantic and elusive. You wouldn’t miss anything if you ate nothing but steak. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hoummus bit-tehina (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts), followed by some kibbi mishwiyyi (crushed wheat and ground sirloin char-broiled with pine nuts and spices), and frarej (chicken and vegetables baked in olive oil and lemon juice), topped off with a slice of baklava and a cup of qahwi (a thick, aromatic Lebanese coffee brewed bitter or sweet, depending on your mood)? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener,” reads the menu, and we believe it. The bread is baked while you watch, and the service can be fast or slow depending on how many Hedary children are on the premises. (3308 Fairlield. Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731 -6961. Tue-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. Gone are the days of the honor system at Joe T. ’s, when you went to the kitchen and helped yourself to a beer and then told the cashier, as near as you could remember, how many you had. Now customers aren’t even allowed to walk through the kitchen on their way to their tables. And there is something strangely clean about the place. No, it’s not the Joe T.’s we used to know, but we will not believe fame and fortune have disfigured this Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex. We waited in line outside on the spooky north Fort Worth street for a full hour, but not a person in our party of 13 voiced a complaint. The industrial-strength margaritas were champions, and the. family-style Mexican staples (You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, tortillas and, if you must, nachos. No questions. No substitutions. That’s it.) make for an inherent good time Time after time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Sat 11-2:15, 5-10:30; Sun 4-10. Reservations for 20 or more. No credit cards. $$)

L’Oustau. Sundance Square in downtown Fort Worth may sound like a piece of the Old West, but developer Sid Bass has seen to it that a little bit of France is tucked into the corner. L’Oustau is a pleasant, open room with lots of green appointments and skylights and waiters with French accents. They bring food in continental rather than Texas-sized portions, enabling you to make it through all the courses. We had a fine pair of small lamb chops in a delicate sauce one night, but the rock bass in crust (loup en croute) was a little oily and flat in flavor. For lunch we had a peppery vegetable soup and a subtle and also peppery pate. Ironically, the shrimp Pro-vencal with tomato and garlic sauce was ordinary, while the coq au vin evoked memories of real country cooking in Burgundy. Delicious. The waiters will tempt you. and you might as well give in to the strawberry tart, which comes with a layer of custard and a thin crust of chocolate. Fresh raspberries were sprinkled around the plate for good measure. If you don’t have room for dessert, you will want at least one fresh strawberry dipped in chocolate. (300 Main Street. (817) 332-8900. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations are recommended. AE. $$$$)

The Carriage House. This old standby offers a refreshing retreat from area steakhouses that are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments. The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but it is relaxed nevertheless. The steaks are still the safest selec-tions, and ours were prepared exactly as ordered. The tenderloin won best of show. The South African lobster tail was indeed large, as advertised, as was the price ($21.95), which was not advertised. Asparagus and broccoli were fresh, crisp and boring-the kind we used to have to eat before we could leave the table. The brandy ice, a successful blend of brandy and ice cream, is a nice winder-upper, especially for those who have difficulty choosing between dessert and after-dinner drinks. (5136 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, Sun 6-10: Sun brunch: 11-2. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Massey’s. Warning: Don’t order the a la carte chicken-fried steak for lunch unless you have time for a siesta. The portions are huge, and it tastes too good to leave any behind. You won’t be distracted by frills here. The menu advises that in the interest of conservation, water will be served upon request. There are no pepper shakers; tables are stocked with the original pepper cans. At lunchtime, you get chicken-fried steak, salad, two vegetables and homemade biscuits. The tender meat is cooked with a heavenly breading and topped with yellow creamed gravy, just the way they do it on that great spread beyond the sunset. The french fries are the kind you eat and then begrudge the lost space. The assembly-line salad consists of wilted lettuce and bulk dressing. Massey’s offers seafood and Mexican dishes, but to go here for something other than chicken-fried steak would be like going to the Grand Canyon to see the chipmunks. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817)924-8242. Daily 8 am-10 pm. MC. V. $)

River House. This welcome spot (even if it does restirreverently on the grave of what was onceCarlson’s) should considerably lessen the pain in acity aching for reasonably priced, yet digestible,seafood. But the pain may return in an hour, sincethe servings are less than heaping. Every kind ofseafood served here can be purchased at the in-house fish market, but we dare you to fry it as lightly.The seafood platter was a delightful sampling ofshrimp, oysters, fish and deviled crab; the assortment of Shore Dinners, which include an appetizer,salad, entree, drink and dessert (try the Key limepie), are a worthy catch. But the fish filets bore adistinct resemblance to the kind of fish sticks youkeep hidden in the back of your freezer, and thepotatoes au gratin weren’t even that good. The service was friendly and efficient. (1660 S. University.(817) 336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. MC. V, AE. $$)