DINING NEW ARRIVALS

Agnew’s. For those of you who think exquisite dining experiences happen only in Turtle Creek or Oak Lawn, it’s time to head north. Of the scores of new restaurants in the northern oasis beyond LBJ, the most welcome addition must be Agnew’s in Adelstein Plaza (north of Belt Line Road). Featuring “classic American nouvelle cuisine,” Tom and Kim Agnew have not limited themselves to a single culinary style. Although not extensive, the dinner menu offers a tantalizing array of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Choices of appetizers include Russian Beluga caviar, Blue Point oysters, shrimp sautéed with tomato and basil, quail salad with honey mustard vinaigrette or scallops with avocado. Of the five entrees we sampled, three were outstanding, one was excellent and the last was very good. After almost abandoning the citywide search for properly prepared swordfish, we found it here, served fresh and tender. Another noteworthy entree was sliced breast of duck and a drumstick served with pink peppercorn sauce. Although tasty, the Dover sole and tournedos were not as inventive as Agnew’s other dishes. For dessert, the elaborate pastry cart offered pecan cheesecake, tarts made of delicate pastry filled with cream and topped with orange slices, and a fresh strawberry torte. Champagne, Harry Upmann cigars and 1962 Sander-man port bottled in 1964 topped off the dinner. Lunch at Agnew’s also presented a tempting selection of dishes. Recently sampled appetizers include pheasant pate with green peppercorns, chicken and duck liver mousse, sausage in brioche, and steamed New Zealand cockles (tiny clams) with a fresh herb butter sauce. For entrees, we had a tasty shrimp and crab ragout with fresh asparagus and small, melt-in-your-mouth scallops with whole grain mustard sauce. Among several salad choices are the oriental duck pasta salad and chicken and pheasant salad with honey mustard vinaigrette. Excellent ingredients contribute to the quality of the food at Agnew’s. The duck and pheasant come from Canada, and much of the seafood is imported from New Zealand and the Mediterranean. A room is available for private parties and meetings. (15501 Dallas N. Pkwy. in Adelstein Plaza. 458-0702. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. All credit cards $$$$)

Egg Roll & Deli. We considered being charitable and waiving this early assessment of Egg Roll & Deli, but then we thought: “Hey, that would be letting you readers down!” Where else in Dallas can you order Vietnamese dishes, a Greek gyros sandwich and a root beer to-go? The gyros was inherited, we suppose, from the Middle-Eastern sandwich shop that previously occupied this unappealing space in a shopping center at LBJ at Abrams. As it happens, the gyros is the best thing Egg Roll & Deli serves; it’s better and much less gristly than the gyros we recently sampled at Kosta’s. We wanted to like Egg Roll & Deli’s Vietnamese selections. We tried the luc lac (fried beef cubes on lettuce) and the mi xao thap cam (a variety of meats and vegetables over crispy noodles), and both bore characteristics of much of the Cantonese food in town-they seemed a little limp from overcooking and light on flavor because some of the ingredients were canned. The beef in the luc lac, while of good quality, was tossed into a mixture of stir-fried green peppers and onions that seemed only as good as carelessly cut vegetables can be without any sort of flavorful sauce except soy. Our mi xao thap cam was something less than the spirited and spicy dish we had anticipated. Vietnamese food, Egg Roll & Deli’s owner had explained, is much like Thai food. We had hoped these dishes would have the dalliance of the Thai dishes we had sampled elsewhere. The impact of the mi xao thap cam was softened by the limp, watery mushrooms fresh out of the can; nothing in the dish but the noodles had any zap or crunch and everything on the plate looked a little gray. All this would have made our meals most unpleasant if our waitress hadn’t been so sweet and eager to please. This disarmed us-restaurant critics, after all, are compassionate creatures well-acquainted with the anxieties of kitchen traumas. In that way, eating at Egg Roll & Deli is like dining in the home of a close friend who can’t cook. The place has a comfortable, neighborhood feel that defies its location. The fact that the little shrimp floating in the broth disguised as soup still appear freeze-dried seems less appalling when you’re having a good time. (12125 Abrams. 234-0716. Daily: 11-11; luncheon specials. $)

Bohemia. The owners of this charm-laden little Bavarian restaurant are Czech-oslovakian, but the cuisine is not all that different from your favorite German establishment, and odds are that it’s prepared with more care. The menu includes a lot of goulash-style dishes, dumplings, veal and vinegary sauces. There’s a decent enough wine list; and good German beers – including one of the world’s outstanding brews, Pilsner Urquell-are available. (We especially recommend the Urquell, which has been brewed since the Middle Ages in Pilsen, Czechoslovakia, and stored in Bavarian caves.) The kitchen is supervised by the wife of the restaurant’s owner, and she apparently insists on fresh-only ingredients. The vegetables – we had green beans, sauerkraut and new potatoes fixed with butter and parsley-were outstanding, cooked perfectly. The sauerkraut, in fact, was the best we’ve ever had, two extended visits to Germany notwithstanding. The veal paprika featured tender chunks of meat in a sauce that was surprisingly delicate, German food not being known for subtlety. A kind of hunter’s stew featured a light gravy and tender beef. The desserts, too, were homemade – a fluffy cheesecake with real whipped cream and an apple strudel of flaky pastry and tart, plump fruit slices. The service was Teutonic-efficient and friendly, the atmosphere elegant without pretension. (2810 N. Henderson. 826-6209. Dinner: Tue-Sun 5:30-11. Closed Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)

Manhattan. The atmosphere ranges from Scandinavian to English-garden to early-Fifties cocktail lounge, but the food and service at this North Dallas continental restaurant are strictly first-class. As you enter, to your left is a gazebo area, straight ahead are blond-wood walls, to the rear is a large aquarium. On one wall is a bad Utrillo-copy painting. But on the tables is elegant china, and at your elbow are attentive and knowledgeable waiters. A soup of the day and a chefs special are offered. The menu features the safe bets of continental dining-veal, lamb, seafood, chicken breast and duckling-but the chef has come up with some simple and elegant variations that succeed beautifully. We began our meal with smoked salmon and mushroom caps stuffed with crab meat, and a top-drawer start it was. The salmon was tender with just a touchof smoke flavor. Delicate is the word. Themushroom caps, topped with béarnaise,were richer but not enough to ruin the restof the meal. The soup of the day, cream ofpotato, was full and flavorful, if a bit toosalty. The house salad featured the queenof leafy vegetables, bibb lettuce, and alight and subtle dressing. Since we beganwith salmon, we chose the veal Manhattanfor the main course. Lightly breaded andtender scallops of veal were covered withcrab legs and shrimp, then topped withbéarnaise. The flavors and texture complemented perfectly. We also sampled soleRebecca, a breaded fish topped with asauce of mushrooms, pimentos, shallotsand capers. Again, it was an inspiredblend. And the fish was cooked perfectly,tender but still flaky. The dessert tray wasloaded with various French confections,including a light chocolate roll cake,eclairs and a superb napoleon made withfresh strawberries and cream. It was a fitting end to a fine meal. (1842 Preston Forest Square. 385-8221. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. All creditcards. $$$)

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory hat nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL



Belvedere. Belvedere, a 4-month-old baby sister of The Chimney (which serves the same sort of delicious Swiss-Austrian food), strikes a comfortable note of elegance. Plush red-quilted booths and a nearby table of German-accented guests, luscious antique furnishings and classical piano dinner music fill the room. The sauces are the winning point of Belvedere: The veal (the restaurant’s specialty) approaches L’Ambiance’s in excellence, and the beef is tender: but the light, spirited sauces make the meal. (4242 Lomo Alto. 528-6510. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Caté de Paris. Continental cuisine served in a comfortably sophisticated and cheery atmosphere. Offerings include tender beef bourguignonne, salmon béarnaise covered by a tasty sauce, and a French onion soup that is easily one of the best in the area. Dessert highlights are the fruit tart, served warm with fresh whipped cream, and the praline pie. (2800 Routh, The Quadrangle. 653-1027. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Cafe Riviera. The culinary emphasis here is on seafood and continental offerings, both Italian and French. The food preparation can be haphazard, considering the hefty bill. Entrees include steak au poivre and shrimp Riviera (breaded shrimp wrapped in bacon). For dessert, the amaretto cake is superb. (13601 Preston at Alpha. 233-1456. Mon-Sat 11 am-midnight. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Cafe Royal. The surroundings are as exquisite as the Mozart played by the pianist on duty during dinner. Good bets are scallops in pepper sauce, a fine appetizer; and nouvelle cuisine-inspired entrees such as flavorful duckling supreme and piquant veal steak with lime butter. Service can be slow. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-11. Jackets and ties required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Calluaud. Some of the dishes on Calluaud’s updated menu qualify as “best in the city” or in some cases, “only such dish in the city.” Prime examples include veal in a creamy hazelnut sauce, deliciously seasoned turbot with champagne and truffles, and a notable quail and duck steak with lime. As openers, the delicate lobster souffle and garlicky escar-gots de bourgogne are excellent. Lovely terra-cotta and cream-colored surroundings are quietly elegant, as is the service. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-9:30: Fri & Sat seatings at 7 and 9:30. Closed Sun. Jackets required for men. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

The Chimney. Service is sometimes slow and the appetizers can be unappetizing, but the entrees at this understated restaurant are wonderful. Ten of the 18 listed entrees are veal, so we expected the veal forestiere to be good; it was better than that. Also recommended is the Rehsteak Chimney, breathtakingly tender tournedos from Montana venison. (Willow Creek Center. 9739 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Enclave. Here you expect all of the waiters to be named James and to be gentlemen’s gentlemen in their moonlighting hours. As for the food, the filet can be a bit dry, but is usually very good; the pepper steak flambé and the lightly breaded veal Oscar are tastefully presented. The house vegetables have been the only disappointment. The tab is reasonable, considering the plush elegance of the place. (8325 Walnut Hill Lane. 363-7487. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Fri 6-11; Sat 6-11:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Ewald’s. Less pretentious and flashy than most continental restaurants in Dallas, Ewald’s ranks in the highest echelon when it comes to the quality of its food. Among the standouts are the tournedos St. Moritz, veal steak au moulin and the veal Pagallo. Superb desserts include the strawberries Romanoff and the cream caramel. (5475 W Lovers Lane. 357-1622 Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Francisco’s. Its ambiance may not rival that of other continental restaurants, but Francisco’s is still good and reasonably priced. Soups are the high point on the menu. Clear mushroom soup, with mushrooms floating in consomme and topped with light pastry, is superb. Minestrone, a soup of the day, is almost as good Among lunchtime entrees, the chef’s salad is commendable. (2917 Fairmount. 749-0906. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11; Sat seatings at 7 & 9:30. Reservations. MC. V, AE. $$$)

The French Room. Even if the French Room didn’t serve the best food in Dallas, dining here would be a worthwhile experience. The opulent decor resembles what Cecil B. DeMille’s vision of Louis XIV’s dining room must have looked like. Every dish is superb -from the bisque of langoustine and crawfish to the foie gras in aspic, the roast lobster with thyme and caviar sauce, and the Grand Marnier mousse. Service is excellent and intimate (the restaurant has set a limit of 90 diners per evening). Allow one to two weeks waiting time if you want a weeknight reservation or a month if you want a weekend reservation. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200, ext 191. Reservations required. Jackets and ties required for men. Mon-Sat 7-11 pm. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$$)

The Grape. Everyone loves The Grape, but the people who seem to love it most are lovers. Candlelight is conducive to other than romantic sorts of conversations, such as discussions of bad poetry and good dance. The food is excellent. Quiche Lorraine is a staple, as are the homemade mushroom soup and Boston lettuce dinner salads. The pates are consistently noteworthy. Service is provided by bright, young people who probably live lives more fascinating than any of their clientele (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823 0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat 6-1 AE, MC, V. $$)

Jean Claude. In 1977, Jean Claude began serving haute cuisine on a basis the city hadn’t seen before. No menus, no advertising, reservations-only seating. Now Jean Claude is something of a haute cuisine shrine tor most astute Dallasites. For $29.50 per person, diners can have a complete meal with entrees such as iobster in a light cream sauce, salmon menuiner or duck roasted in ginger sauce, not to mention excellent choices of veal. And the dessert soufflés-ahh (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat sealings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$$)

Jennivine. Although the atmosphere is British. Jen-nivine offers a lovely selection of French wines, pates and cheeses from various countries. The dinner menu, which is written on a blackboard, varies according to the fresh seafood that is available Tender sea scallops and filet of sole are worth noting Service is friendly and sometimes English-accented. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2;dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations All credit cards. $$)

L’Amblance. This is definitely the best continental food you’ll ever eat in a converted gas station. Salads are impeccable, soups are fresh and flavorful. Recommended entrees are the medallions of veal with mushroom puree and the pepper-sauced filet mignon. The pastry selection is varied and gorgeous. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 10:30-2; dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat 6:15-10:30. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

La Vieille Varsovie. Tableside food preparation with a theatrical flair highlights dining in the Old Warsaw. Menu fortes are the poached salmon in champagne sauce, the fresh lobster and the Dover sole with lemon butter. (2610 Maple. 5280032. Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)

Le Boul ’Mich. Certainly. Le Boul Mich has had its ups and downs, but it’s on the upswing now, serving the best omelet in town and a very respectable French steak pomme trite. The asparagus would have been better if it were fresh, but the sourdough bread is delicious, the espresso is serious and the prices are reasonable. 2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Mon-Thur 11 am-10:30 pm, Fri & Sat 11 am-11:30 pm. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Le Rendezvous. Service is consistently good, and comfort marks an unpretentious formality. A great late-breakfast omelet is offered beginning at 11. Also, look for the lunch specials with homemade soups, fresh fish and veal. Dinner standouts include extensive seafood entrees, veal in lemon butter, pepper steak and uncommon offerings of duck and rabbit. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Sun-Sat 11 am-2 am. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

LesSaisons. Here you’ll get what restaurant critics call a “dining experience.” The food is French, the waiters are French (or are at least good impersonators) and the decor is set roughly in turn-of-the-century suburban Paris. Meals at Les Saisons are traditional, expensive and predictably excellent. There are some interesting twists such as roast Cornish hen with tarragon sauce, braised sweetbreads and sirloin saute with Roquefort cheese and green peppercorns. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Mansion. Brisk, efficient waiters work in a carefully calculated decor often supplemented by dining celebrities. Menu stars include the tortilla soup and the béarnaise sauce that tops the red snapper, and the pate that garnishes the duck with brown sauce. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Breakfast: Daily 7-10:30; Lunch: Mon-Fri noon-2; brunch: Sat noon-2:30, Sun 11-2:30: dinner: Sun-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11; supper: Mon-Thur 10.30-midnight, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)

Patry’s. This can be an excellent place to have a quiet and elegant continental dinner, provided you arrive when the place is not too crowded. Pepper steak, duck a I’orange, lamb chops and veal in lemon butter are consistently tasty entrees. The cream of broccoli soup is among the best in the city. One of the stronger points of this place is its extensive wine list, which complements the menu. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Sun. Tue-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Pyramid Room. Courteous and thorough service is the rule here, from matchbooks embossed with the customer’s name to the presence of the charming Italian wine steward. Lunch includes Irish smoked salmon and oysters Kirkpatrick. Topping the dinner lineup are the house pate of fish and lobster with two sauces, and the steak au poivre. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: daily 6-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Three Vikings. Weekend diners are still lining up to try the city’s only samplings of Swedish cuisine. Entrees include roast duck with almond sauce and lamb chops with wild mushroom sauce. The veal Oscar and grilled salmon steak are both excellent. And there’s no nicer way to begin a meal than with the offerings on Three Vikings’ relish tray. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Mon-Thur6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



ITALIAN



Bugatti. This place has consistently superior homemade pasta, the quintessential element tor any good Italian restaurant. But Bugatti goes far beyond that. The chef handles veal as well as any of his Dallas contemporaries, and the homemade soups are among the best in the city. Other standouts include the tortellini alla crema (homemade pasta shells stuffed with veal and engulfed in a rich white cream sauce), the crab cannelloni and the fettuccine della casa. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)

Campisi’s. In a dark room lined with celebrity photos is served the food that has made Campisi’s an institution. Veal marsala with rich mushroom sauce, fettuccine, garlic toast, pizza and desserts; solid Italian cooking at bargain prices. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355, 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-mid-night, Sat 11 am-1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for six or more. No credit cards: personal checks accepted. $$>

Caruso’s. If you like arias with your antipasto, Carusos’ singing waiters will gladly oblige you. The Italian selections include basic pasta and veal dishes, and steaks are available. Wine lovers will appreciate Caruso’s bottomless wine glass, while lovers will enjoy the candle-lit booths. (706 Medallion Center, Northwest Hwy at Skillman. 691-9944. Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. All credit cards. $$>

Cremona Ristorante Italiano and Dell. Park your car on the dead-end street, wind your way around the little junque stores, find a table near a window and prepare yourself for a no-nonsense Italian meal. The ladder-back chairs, wooden blinds and starched white tablecloths lend country-inn romance; the service is first-rate. At lunch, try the fettucine “della casa, ” made from homemade pasta, lovely butter and cream enhanced with mushrooms, ham and peas. (3136 Routh Street in Chelsea Square. 742-4330. Mon-Sat 11-3 and 6-10:30 pm. Closed Sun. Free wine at lunch. Will soon be taking credit cards. $$)

DiPalma. Whether or not you’re Italian, DiPalma is the perfect place to indulge in homemade pasta. This Italian restaurant/food store offers some delicacies not often found at other Italian establishments, such as chicken lasagna and lemon garlic chicken, and some standbys like eggplant par-migiana and bracciole. A daily special is always offered on the menu. Desserts include pastries, fresh pear cake and a delicious orange hazelnut torte. (1520 Greenville. 824-4500 Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat till 10:30. Closed Sun. MC, V. $)

La Tosca. Elegant, understated surroundings and food equally as tasteful greet diners at La Tosca. Octopus salad and pepata di vongole or cozze (a clam dish) stand out on a menu that includes excellent scaloppine al marsala and involtini nicola, two veal dishes. Dessert treats are profitterol al cioccolato (a cream-filled pastry) and ice cream with Strega, an Italian liqueur. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373. Sun, Tue-Thur 5:30-1030. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombardi. This place may never be as good as the old Lombardi’s on McKinney, but when it’s at its best, the pasta is inspirational. Also offered are superior soups (clam chowder and minestrone excel), fine veal dishes (especially veal with lemon butter, veal marsala and saltimbocca Romana) and first-rate tarts and other desserts, all with Lombardi’s traditionally good service. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11, bar open until 2 am. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario’s. Out of the vein of most pizzeria-style Italian eateries. Mario’s offers first-rate, napkin-placing, cigarette-lighting service and food to merit the delivery. Superb pasta, veal entrees and sauces are fitting preludes to dessert, possibly one of Mario’s outstanding soufflés. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$)

P. J.’s Ristorante. This is another of those wonderful little retreats with an unlikely exterior. P. J.’s isn’t to be judged by its shopping center neighbors or its disco-like front wall. Inside beckons soft light, cordial service and sumptuous homemade pasta. The pasta giovanni, named after the son of P. J.’s owner Papa Jack, is a pasta-lover’s fantasy island. The heaping plate offers spaghetti, ravioli, mani-cotti, meatballs, lasagna and sausage. It is almost impossible to finish, but great fun to try. (5410 E Mockingbird. 824-1490. Daily: 5-10 pm or. on weekends, as late as necessary. AE, V. $$$)

Sergio’s. An elegant, formal dining establishment with reasonable prices. The menu includes seven reliable veal dishes, sole saffron, chicken Florentine and homemade pasta. And Sergio’s makes one of the better omelets available in Dallas, as well as one of the better appetizers: Sergio’s version of marinated crab claws. (Suite 233, The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742-3872. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reser-vations. All credit cards. $$)

INDIAN



India House. Dinner service is extremely attentive in this establishment where the selections are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. Fresh-from-the-oven breads and appetizers such as the chicken chat are superb. Both the tandoori chicken and beef, marinated delights served with shovel-sized portions of fluffy rice, are tasty and extremely filling. The cheese balls in sweet milk are perfect for dessert. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Sahib. On visual terms alone, the place is commendable: Gauze canopies float over a lovely teal and peach color scheme. As for food, the Maharaja Patiala Sahib’s Dinner, an assortment of Sahib’s specialties that includes wonderful preparations of chicken, lamb and shrimp, is the star of the menu. Also offered is a $6.95 lunch buffet (somewhat mis-leadingly referred to as “brunch” on weekends). (9100 Central Expwy. Caruth Plaza. 987-2301. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30; dinner: daily 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$)



MEXICAN



Café Cancun. Most good Tex-Mex in Dallas is served in places you wouldn’t feel safe visiting at night-perhaps that’s Cafe Cancun’s secret to success. This isn’t Tex-Mex, but Mexico City-style Mexican food. The standout menu items are too numerous to sample during one visit, but there are a few superlative items you shouldn’t miss. Try the corn soup, which is thick with cheese and corn meal, and the enchiladas verdes (chicken enchiladas with spicy green tomatillo sauce). Then sample the excellent tacos al carbon, the quesadillas Cancun and the nachos Cancun (black-bean nachos). (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-mid-night, Sat 5-midnight, Sun noon-10. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Chiquita. With its pastel tablecloths, candles and the color-coordinated costumes of the waiters, Chi-quita is out of the ordinary when compared to most Tex-Mex places in town. Therefore, it’s appropriate that Chiquita excels with its out-of-the-ordinary specialties. Skillful preparations include carne asada tampico style and filete de la casa (filet mignon dishes) and the tortilla soup. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-11. Closed Sun. MC, V, AE $$)

El Taxco. If El Taxco were located near a superior Mexican restaurant, it would probably dry up and blow away. But it isn’t, so the food here seems okay. Stick with the basics-enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chili rellenos, guacamole-and you’ll leave satisfied, with only a minimal dent in your wallet. (2616 N St Paul at McKinney. 742-0747. Daily 11-10. Closed Tue. All credit cards.$)

Escondido. This place looks like a Hell’s Angels habitat on the outside; and inside, the decor is late-New York subway, with spray-can graffiti all over the ceiling. The entries are standard no-frill, reasonable-bill Mexican food. The chicken nachos are among the best in town and the combination platter’s tacos and salsas are top-notch. (2210 Butler 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Guadalajara. The ambiance of this establishment is border-town bordello, but the food is worth sampling. Among the consistently good offerings are the enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chiles rellenos and fri-joles. as well as some decent chalupas. Service can be a bit slow because management knows it has a good thing going and loyal customers are willing to wait. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30 am. Closed Mon. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Herrera. Despite the fact that this dumpy little restaurant on Maple Avenue has more customers than it can possibly serve, the Tex-Mex food and the service have remained consistently good. Suggestions include the Jimmy’s special or the Pepe’s special; both of which are virtual Tex-Mex smorgasbords. The only bad news is that Herrera’s has no liquor license, so bring enough beer to carry you through the wait and the meal. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun till 10. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Javier’s. Quite a bit different from the standard Tex-Mex found at most Mexican restaurants, Javier’s offers Mexico City-style gourmet dining. To begin, chips are served with red and green salsas. Javier’s excels with its fish and chicken dishes, but also serves creditable beef dishes. For dessert, try the smooth and satisfying mango mousse or the café Pierre, which is flamboyantly prepared at the table. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

La Calls Docs. Gracefully housed in a converted house on 12th Street (hence the name), La Calle Doce features a menu of seafood and steak specialties prepared Mexico City-style, as well as Tex-Mex basics. The atmosphere is relaxed and homey; the service, friendly and fast; and the food, carefully prepared and well-presented. (415 W. 12th. 941-4304. Mon-Thur 11-9. Fri & Sat 11-10. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mario & Alberto. Dining here is a completely pastel experience, like a meal inside a great peach petit four. Strong margaritas, good chips and hot sauce, chicken nachos and flautas con crema set a fine mood for main courses chosen from a vast menu (which includes everything from standard bean and taco plates to zucchini stuffed with ground sirloin). (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 10:30-11. Closed Sun. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC, V, AE $$)

Moctezuma. Besides the usual Tex-Mex, this bastion of Dallas’ South of the Border restaurants features some excellent chicken and fish dishes. The nachos and the margaritas are tops. On sunny summer days you can sit outside on the terrace, sip a stout margarita and watch the traffic go by. (3236 McKinney. 559-3010. Sun-Thur 11-10:30, Fri S Sat 11-1. Reservations for parties of six or more. All credit cards. $)

Pepe’s Café. Pepe’s is a marriage of good basic Tex-Mex and unpretentious but gracious surroundings and service. The owner and employees manage authentic fare of everyday Mexicana without the usual dirty-Formica atmosphere of such establishments. The nachos, flautas and pork dishes are all delicious. Breakfast is served from 9 until 11 a.m. (3011 Routh. 698-9445. Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30 & 5.30-10, Sat 11:30-10. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)

Raphael’s. We’ve grown suspicious of civilized Mexican restaurants, guessing that their best is only fresh from the freezer. But Raphael’s throws a kink in this philosophy. The food is better than average. the surroundings are pleasant and the prices are comparable to our favorite dives. Strong points are the appetizers (including quesadillas) and the desserts (try the sopapillas con fresas). (3701 McKinney. 521-9640 Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. All credit cards. $$)



MIDDLE EASTERN



The Pita Place. It is important to the management that you know that this is an Israeli restaurant (although the food resembles Lebanese). Whatever you call it. this is good food. Try the specials, such as the Jerusalem chicken (a tender, spicy, roasted chicken served with rice, beans and a salad) or the kebab (ground sirloin with chopped onions, parsley and spices). And you obviously wouldn’t want to eat here without trying the fresh pita bread; we recommend hoummus (ground chickpeas with lemon and garlic) as an excellent dip/spread. (The Corner Shopping Center, 9820 N Central Expwy at Walnut Hill. 987-3226. Tue-Sun 11-10. Closed Mon. AE, MC, V, DC. $)



NATURAL FOODS



Marvins Garden. There is an earthy charm about this small, comfortable restaurant that we have not felt elsewhere in Dallas. Purity in food is the emphasis here, but your taste buds may find some dishes bland. The Mexican offerings seem consistently good and the Sunday brunch is a laid-back work of art. (6033 Oram at Skillman. 824-5841. Sun-Thur 11-10:30, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, DC. $$)



ORIENTAL



Asuka. Dining at Asuka is a soothing experience that will transport you a thousand miles away from the construction and congestion 50 yards outside the door. Try any one of the Kaiseki dinners, such as the Ishiyaki Kaiseki-beef and vegetables served over sizzling stone pebbles; it is delightful. At lunch, the food is just as palate-pleasing and pretty. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. AE, V, MC. DC. $$$)

August Moon. What you’ll get on an average day is better than what you’ll find in a neighborhood Chinese place; however, some of the sauces have been tempered to suit Cream of Wheat North Dallas tastes. Recommended are the spicy and tangy lamb, the Mongolian barbecue, curried beef hibachi and the rumaki. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11-10:30, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10:30. Reservations for eight or more. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, DC. $$)

Fangti China 1. The features worth mentioning about this place are the service and the hours. At all times of the day and night, the waitresses are chipper and cheerful. Because Fangti is open until six in the morning on weekends, it attracts an eclectically interesting crowd. The special soup and the hot and sour work well at late hours. The entrees, however, are inconsistent. (Twin Bridge Shopping Center, 6752 Shady Brook Lane. 987-3877. Sun-Thur 11 am-4 am, Fri 11 am-6 am. Sat 5 pm-6 am. AE, DC, MC. V.)

Hunan Imperial. The difference between this Chinese restaurant and every other new Chinese restaurant begins with its extensive menu. There are offerings that are just not readily available at other Dallas Chinese restaurants. String beans with pork, for example. The beans are crisp and flavorful, with just a smidgen of pork flavor. Another dish we found both palate-pleasing and pretty is the shrimp with pine nuts. The vegetables and the pine nuts are crisp and crunchy; the shrimp, well-cooked but not tough or mushy; barbecue ribs, tops. The atmosphere, although not quite imperial, is at least subdued and conducive to tine dining. (The Corner Shopping Center, Walnut Hill and N Central Expwy. 363-3858. Sun-Thur 11:30-11. Fri & Sat 11:30-3 am. AE, V, MC. $$)

Sakura. The program here seems designed for local business people on expense accounts entertaining out-of-town business people on expense accounts. There is a $15 fee for the tatami rooms, but you can sit on the floor and wear Japanese “happy robes” for free. If raw fish is what you’re interested in, try the sushi bar. As for other entrées, the beef dishes are above average, but the lobster entrees can be questionable. (7402 Greenville near Walnut Hill. 361-9282 Mon-Fri 11:30-2 & 5:30-11:30. Sat & Sun 5:30-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Sawatdee. If your culinary tastes are inclined toward the adventurous and experimental, this is truly an excellent restaurant in which to indulge them. Among the specialties of the house worth noting are the red chicken curry, South Seas scallops and the dinner portion of moo satay. Be sure to clearly indicate to your waiter how spicy you like your food; otherwise you may be surprised or disappointed by the degree of seasoning. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30-2:30, 5-10:30. AE, MC, V. $$)

Siam. Siam opened up new worlds for us when it brought Thai food to Dallas. For the uninitiated. Thai cuisine is often fiery hot. using peppers and curry sauces, and blends in several elements that separate it from spicy hot Chinese cooking such as Szechuan or Hunan. An excellent beginner is the moo-sar tey (pork strips on bamboo skewers served with a peanut sauce) and slices of cucumber and hot pepper. For an entree, try the gand ped-a rice dish with curry, bamboo shoots, coconut milk, mint leaves and your choice of pork, beef or chicken. Another standout is the pard Thai, a rice noodle dish with shrimp, pork, eggs, hot chili peppers, bean sprouts and green onions. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)

Szechuan. This oasis in the Lemmon Avenue fast-food strip offers reliably good, if never great, Szechuan and standard Chinese dishes. Main-dish standouts include shredded pork with garlic sauce, moo shi pork, chicken with cashew nuts and the chicken and shrimp combination. Lunch specials (served Monday through Saturday) are real bargains ($2,50 to $3.75). (4117 Lemmon near Douglas. 521-6981. Sun-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-11:30. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)

Taiwan. This restaurant is dressier and a bit more expensive than a lot of Chinese places in town, but it stands head and shoulders above most of them when it comes to food. The choices, particularly in terms of appetizers and soups, are extremely varied; the Kuo-Teh meat dumplings, the flaming pu pu platter and the sizzling rice soup for two are outstanding. The kitchen is at its best with the hot and spicy Szechuan dishes. Service can range from nerve-rackingly overattentive to somewhat absent-minded. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Sat 11.30-3 am, Sun 10:30 am-11 pm. Reservations. MC. V, AE. $$$)

Yunnan Dynasty. Most of the specialties here are hot and spicy-such as the boneless duckling with ginger root in hot pepper sauce-although some of the non-combustible dishes, such as beef and scallops with oyster sauce, are also solid selections. One of our all-time favorites is steamed fish (served whole) with garlic and black-bean sauce, which is not only spicy and tasty, but is also low in calories. Yunnan’s pleasant decor and location make it a notch above its Oriental competitors. (Caruth Plaza, 9100 N Central Expwy, Suite 191. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30-10. Fri & Sat 11:30-11. AE, V, MC. $$)



SEAFOOD



Charley’s Seafood Grill. Charley’s is worth a visit not so much for its seafood as for its atmosphere- the brass-trimmed floor-to-ceiling mirrored bar filled with row upon row of assorted liquor bottles is really quite a sight. The seafood, unfortunately, is less impressive. Charley’s chowder is truly bland, and the numerous fried offerings are only average, but the charcoal-broiled fish (trout, red snapper, swordfish steak) can be quite good. (5348 Belt Line. 934-8501. Sun-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. All credit cards. $$)

Fausto’s. Among the culinary triumphs listed on the ambitious menu are tender and sweet frog legs, juicy swordfish steak and poached salmon steak topped with a luscious green peppercorn sauce. The extras are equally deserving of praise: marbled black and rye bread toast with Parmesan cheese that arrives before the menu, homemade pear sorbet to clear your palate before the main course, and decadent desserts. All these delights are served up in a darkened dining room that is one of the city’s plushest. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11; Sun brunch; 10:30-2:30. All credit cards. $$$$)

Jozef’s. Selecting carefully is the way to enjoy the seafood at Jozef’s. Smoked freshwater trout with horseradish sauce, mushrooms stuffed with crab meat imperial and basic entrees such as live Maine lobster or char-broiled fish of the season are all recommended. Tasty blueberry cheesecake is a nice finish. Service is attentive but not overbearing. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. Alt credit cards. $$$)

Ratcliffe’s. The decor looks like New Orleans, and the fish compares favorably. Especially noteworthy are the clam chowder and sourdough bread. Add a house salad and soothing raspberry mousse, and you have a pleasant lunch. For evenings try the pasta with seafood or red snapper, plus vegetables, which can be as appealing there as they are virtuous. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. No reservations. AE, V, DC, CB. $$$)

Seascape Inn. This seafood restaurant has taken a position among Dallas’ finest eateries. We’ve never had a bad entree, and Chef Jean LaFont’s specialties are always just that-special treats. The Dover sole Veronique and the salmon in puff pastry are two wonderful selections. “Gracious” best sums up the service and atmosphere; it is elegant but not pretentious. (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Reservations recommended. All credit cards. $$$)

S & D Oyster Company. S&D could easily survive for years on its substantial assemblage of regulars who would much rather fight the growing crowds than switch. Why do droves flock to this humble establishment? Because S&D has some of the best fresh seafood in Dallas. Period. Broiled whole flounder and fried shrimp are among the freshly simple choices. And don’t forget S&D’s great sides-crisp coleslaw, crunchy hush puppies and French fries. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Turtle Cove. Decisions are easy to make at Turtle Cove: Order the fresh seafood broiled over a mes-quite wood fire, a whiff of which you’re bound to inhale as you enter. The mesquite provides a low. moist heat that cooks the seafood to perfection. For a sideshow to your entree, mesquite-broiled vegetables are a better choice than salad; the best appetizers are the fresh oysters and broiled shrimp. Just remember to stick with the fresh seafood. (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Mon-Sat: 11-11, Sun noon-11. MC, V, AE. $$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Broussard’s. The specialties of this backwoods Louisiana Cajun diner, located in Irving, are all fried-oysters, shrimp, catfish, frog legs, hush puppies and potatoes with the crunchy skins left on. All are very simply prepared with lightly spiced coatings and are properly fried, complemented nicely by the homemade red sauce. The food is served cafeteria-style, but the wait is shortened by the great jukebox. (707 N Belt Line in Irving, one mile S of Hwy 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2, dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10, Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. Personal checks accepted. $$)

Bubba’s. This slate-gray art deco lunch stop with self-service near the SMU campus offers dependable chicken-fried steak, fried chicken, chicken and dumplings served with mashed potatoes and cream gravy, vegetables cooked with salt pork, salad and luscious hot rolls with cobbler (or dessert. Breakfast begins with biscuits-with gravy or in sausage sandwiches. A great place for reading the Sunday papers, or in the case of one SMU history prof, Pericles. (6617 Hillcrest. 373-6527. Daily 6:30 am-10 pm. No credit cards. $)

Celebration. This is the closest thing to a home-cooked meal you’re going to find in a Dallas restaurant. Entrees include standbys such as meat loaf, pot roast, baked chicken and fresh trout, which have all proven to be consistently reliable. But since most of Dallas knows about Celebration, either go early or be prepared for a half-hour wait. (4503 W Lovers Lane. 351-5681. Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. Reservations for six or more. V, AE. $$)

Crawdaddy’s. Here you can dine on a terrific whole catfish dinner in rough-cut wood surroundings. The catfish is moist and tasty and accompanied by the best, lightest hush puppies you’ll ever eat. Although it doesn’t seem to be in season very often, try ordering some form of crawfish when it is available. The beignets sprinkled with powdered sugar make a perfect finish. (2614 McKinney. 748-2008. Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-11:30, Sat noon-11:30. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Highland Park Cafeteria. To dine at this Dallas institution can mean waiting in line for as long as 20 minutes at peak hours. But don’t give up; the line moves quickly and soon you’ll be enticed by the aroma of HPC’s home-style food. HPC offers all kinds of green salads, coleslaw, congealed salads and fresh fruits. Next in line are the entrees-roast beef, fish-baked or fried, casseroles and more. The vegetables here are actually semi-crisp, not steamed into mush. And the assortment of breads and desserts is tempting. (4611 Cole. 526-3801. Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm. Closed Sun No liquor. MC, V.$)

Sonny Bryan’s. There’s a reason all those people are standing in line in front of this greasy, fly-blown former drive-in. They are praying to the great god of barbecue, and Sonny Bryan is their Moses. They’re waiting for a generous slice of beef in the $1.90 sandwich; for ribs crusty and crinkled on the outside, juicy inside, with a sauce good enough to slurp out of the cardboard basket. They are here for real barbecued meat. (2202 lnwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm, Sat 7am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Tolbert’s Chill Parlor. Tolbert’s may have left Oak Lawn, but nothing else has changed at this chili institution (except the crowd’s gotten even bigger). You’ll still find great mainline Texas cooking-Tolbert’s own version of chili (Texas red), burgers with every type of dressing, burritos, hearty fries and superb onion rings-but now you’ll get it served up in an even bigger warehouse-style room with even more photos. (4544 McKinney. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 am-midnight, Sunnoon-11 pm. No reservations. V, MC, AE. $)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



The Bronx. Pinpointing the ambiance of The Bronx is not easy-it’s somewhere between SoHo chic and Southern simplicity. This is a great place to sit back, relax and choose from a limited menu of quiches, omelets and salads, or perhaps the meat loaf plate, all of which are sure bets. The Bronx has daily wine specials and the best glass of spiced tea around. (3835 Cedar Springs. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-12 30. Fri 11:30-1:30, Sat noon-1:30. MC, V, AE. $$)

Hoffbrau. Sink into the deep vinyl (deep because the springs are shot) booths, put your elbows on the table, have a beer and listen to the genuine Texas accents of the polyester-clad cowboys (the kind that let you know, in case you doubted, that this is a real steak restaurant). The chief charm of this delightfully Austinesque restaurant is the atmosphere, followed closely by the juicy lemon-butter steaks. But you’ll leave as full as your Levi’s can handle for less than $10. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11, Sun 4-10. All credit cards. $$)

Nostromo Bar. By the time this high-tech bar/restaurant opened its unmarked door, it was in the higher echelon of “in” places to see and be seen in Dallas. Lately, we’ve noticed that the “in” atmosphere has become so thick that it is sometimes almost nauseating. Late-night patrons seem to be trying to out-New Wave each other with their apparel. Meanwhile, management has come up with a limited menu that includes a good steak and a new homemade soup each day. (45/5 Travis at Knox. 528-8880. Mon-Sat 11:30-2 am. Sun 6 pm-2 am. Jackets required for men. Reservations. AE, E, MC. $$)

The Palm Bar. Nowhere downtown can you find a lighter, lovelier or more innovative meal than at The Palm Bar in the Adolphus Hotel. In addition to such predictable selections as salads, white-tuna plates and New York deli-style sandwiches, you’ll find lunch variations such as the croissant sandwich with turkey or roast beef and a pot of fresh steamed vegetables dressed in a little dab of herb butter. A limited menu is available through cocktail time. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 742-8200. Mon-Fri 11-8. All credit cards. $$)

Papa Zaby’s Cafe. A cross between Dixie House (up the road) and Little Gus’ (down the street), Papa Zaby’s is a welcome addition to the lower Greenville Avenue area. Breakfasts are noteworthy: fluffy omelets, biscuits, gravy and hashbrowns. At dinnertime, the chicken-fried steak with a bacony country gravy, mashed potatoes and vegetable of the day is entirely satisfying. (2114 Greenville. 821-4563. Mon-Fri 9:30 am-11 pm, Sat 8 am-11 pm, Sun 10 am-11 pm. MC, AE, V. $)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



The Back Porch. A fun place to visit after an afternoon in the park or an hour at the museum. Whole wheat pizzas, a weigh-and-pay salad bar (which, for 16 cents an ounce, includes fresh, juicy hunks of a wide assortment of fruits, and a good guacamole salad), three kinds of homemade soup and great heaping ice cream cones make this a favorite spot for Fort Worth diners. (2500 W Berry. (817) 923-0841. Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Sun 1-9. 3400 W Camp Bowie Blvd. 332-3941. Lunch: Mon-Thur 11-3: ice cream Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Sun, ice cream only, 1-9. $)

The Balcony. Continental cuisine, specializing in beef dishes. Fried shrimp and veal cordon bleu are among the specialties. The elegant restaurant overlooks bustling Camp Bowie Boulevard and is a good place for relaxed dining and conversation. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri and Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. Jacket and ties required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)

Benito’s. This is a real Mexican restaurant, not the place for Pancho-style taste buds or first-semester Spanish students. This small, family-run establishment is managed by the daughter of the former headwaiter at Caro’s, and she’s made sure her restaurants beans and rice are just as tasty and non-greasy as theirs. But she’s done more: Benito’s (named after owner-Maria’s husband) serves all sorts of Mexican breakfasts, as well as specialties such as menudo-that’s tripe, in case you don’t know; they say it’s great for hangovers. (1450 W Magnolia. (817)332-8633. Mon-Thur 8 am-10 pm; Fri & Sat 8 am-3 am: Sun 8 am-10 pm. No credit cards. Personal checks accepted. $)

Bill Martin’s. A family seafood restaurant with notable hush puppies and fried, baked and broiled fish of many breeds. The peel em and eat ’em shrimp is a favorite with regulars. We’ll take the large portion of catfish filets. Martin carries out the newspaper theme in the menus and names of all his “editions.” (2nd Edition, 4004 White Settlement Road. 737-4004. 3rd Edition. 5425 E. Lancaster. 451-7220. 4th Edition, 7712 South Freeway. (817) 293-9002. Tandy Edition, 1 Tandy Center 336-2667 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri 5-11. Sat 11-11, Sun 11-10. All credit cards $$)

Burgundy Tree. A pleasant spot for good omelets, crepes, quiches and even an occasional London broil or batch of jumbo shrimp. The Burgundy Tree’s University Drive location makes it an easy drive from Casa Manana, Will Rogers or a show on Camp Bowie. (1015 University Dr. (817)335-2514. Daily: 11 am-2 am; Sunday brunch: 11-3. V, AE, DC, MC. $$)

Card’s. A longtime favorite Mexican food outpost offering the best plate of mixed goodies in the Southwest. “Mixed goodies” is Caro-lingo for tortilla chips piled alternately with cheese and guacamole after being fried specially to puff up instead of sog down. The selection of Mexican dinners at Caro’s is pretty much like that at any restaurant of its genre, only better. There’s serious spice for those who want it, and not much grease. We like the chicken enchiladas and think the beans are divine (3505 Blue Bonnet Circle. 927-9948. 5930 Curzon, (817) 737-0304. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; dinner Tue-Sun 4:30-10. Closed Mon. $$)

Edelweiss. Edelweiss is a big, joyous beer hall with food. Of course, there are German wines and beers, and a cheese soup as thick as we’ve ever tasted. For entrees, try the sausages in mushroom sauce or the cordon bleu Kartoffein (schnitzel stuffed with ham and cheese), which is reputed to be the house specialty. The potato pancakes spiced with onion make a tasty side dish. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30, closed Sun. Reservations for 10 or more. All credit cards. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. This Fort Worth temple to Tex-Mex serves up industrial-strength margaritas that are champions, and family-style Mexican staples (You’ve got your beans, rice, tacos, enchiladas, tortillas and, if you must, nachos. No questions. No substitutions. That’s it.) make for an inherently good time. Time after time. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356 Mon-Fri 11-2 & 5-10:30, Sat 11-10:30, Sun 4-10. Reservations tor 20 or more. No credit cards. $$)

London House. Many a prom date, graduate, newly engaged and golden-aged couple have celebrated at the London House. The steaks and chicken are tender and flavorful. The crab, too, is tender and moist. The soup and salad bar. always a strong point, has gotten even better with the addition of items such as watermelon chunks. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11. Fri & Sat 5:30midnlght. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

L’Oustau. In this pleasant, open room with lots of skylights. French-accented waiters bring forth a fine selection of continental food. The best offerings include the lamb chops (served in a delicate sauce) and the coq au vin, which evoked memories of real country cooking in Burgundy. Try a strawberry tart, which comes with a layer of custard and a thin crust of chocolate. Or. if you’re into self-denial, limit yourself to a fresh strawberry dipped in chocolate. (300 Main Street. (817) 332-8900. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2; dinner: Thur-Sat 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations are recommended. MC, V. $$$$)

River House. This welcome spot considerablylessens the pain in a city aching for reasonablypriced, yet digestible seafood. The seafood platter isa delightful sampling of shrimp, oysters, fish anddeviled crab; the assortment of Shore Dinners,which include an appetizer, salad, entree, drink anddessert (try the Key lime pie), are a worthy catch. (1660 S. University. (817) 336-0815. Lunch: Mon-Fri11-2; dinner: Mon & Tue 5-9, Wed-Sat 5-10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)